There was a 3-2 bbl setup available for that particular engine. As far as I know it was a bolt-on only available thru parts. I've only seen 1 with a air cleaner for it & it was sitting in a parts room in the '60s. Supposedly rated at 400 hp.
Thanks John, I've got the 58 with a 352, You have given me some ideas for sure. I haven't noticed it running hot so much as I notice it stumbling when hot, I'll try just the open air cleaner for now to see if it makes a difference, but, I think the air cleaners are similar for the autolite carb that was original to the car..
Yes a rare Bird indeed! I must note that the biggest choke down of your induction system is the small diameter air filter and its short height. It looks like a K&N so it probably flows well but possibly not enough for 430 cubic inches at W.O.T. The heat stove pipe is necessary in most cooler or humid climates to prevent carburetor icing and improve cold engine performance and drivebility. I would reinstall it unless you live in the desert or never drive it unless it is fully warmed up. Nice idea of using excess ram air to cool the right rear side of the engine compartment.
Although you will likely need a Master's Degree in Automotive Engineering to understand any of this high-flying auto engineering and retrofitting stuff, what I got from it was that the original Ford T-birds were not designed well at all. You basically had to do a major re-build / expansion under the hood, like John did here, to make the vehicle usable. Problems of mega-overheating running it at 92 degrees air temp? How about living in Carefree, Arizona? Where summertime temps range in the 105 to 122 degree interval.
Wow John if I had a J-code '59 Bird I'd have one of your cold air induction systems. It seems to work extremely well and I love how u made the fake hood induction functional. The '58-'60 birds are some of my favourite cars of all time and of course with the rare 430 under the hood ('59 + '60) The mid-year Oldsmobiles , especially the '57 J2 are others I really like. Sooo much love for cars of that era when I was early teens -- limiting factors today are money and space. I'll be looking for more of your collection. Congrats and kudos for keeping these beautiful babies 'alive'. Love the '63 Country Sedan --simply beautiful - and 'the piece de resistance' of course was the bulletproof gem under the hood. I drooled over the 390 but hungered for the 427. Nothing was more magical for a ford fan back in the day and i was a very impressionable 15 when that one was born. I did come close back in the late '70's with a '68 Shelby GT500 with the venerable and torquey 428 but that was the 'little brother' to the 427. subscribed for more.
ahh the old heated air system, it would take warm air from the exhaust push it thru to the carbs, until the engine warmed up then the flapper in the snorkel would shut and let in cold air in most cars in the 60s and all thru the 70s had them, worked great until they didnt
I don't agree about positive pressure through the hood scoop. Above hood is negative pressure same reason wings create lift. I wish I didn't know that if the hood unlatches at speed the back edge will snap to top of windshield. Also why old cars front ends lift at high speed. But negative pressure is better as it pulls hot air out the scoop but that means you're reducing intake flow. The only positive pressure is base of the windshield, best intake source is fresh air plenum in front of the windshield or the grill. I also believe your air cleaner element not near big enough. Not that you need more power from that wonderful engine but even Ebirds giant element restricts above 3800 rpm. I dyno tune my yblock and FE builds so this is something I know about. I ran a stock J model hard for several years early 70s never overheated. Every time I find an over heating yblock or F/E its wrong timing or corrosion blocked coolant passages. All my engines including high performance have 165 degree (tested) thermostats and only electric fans which rarely turn on regardless of conditions. P/S, I caught K/N very wrong about their element flow rates. My current 59 bird is 390 built for 87 octane, proper designed long tube headers, 2 1/2" exhaust with stock t85 OD trans, disk brakes and rear sway bar, by far my favorite driver.
I’m thinking your cooling issue is more related to not having a fan shroud - the lack of a fan clutch and inefficient fan design also do not help. The fuel pump location on the MEL engines also contributed to heating the fuel. Fun fact about the often overlooked MEL engine: the first regularly street driven 9 second 1/4 mile car was 6-71 supercharged 430 powered T-bucket.
Yes. I have all parts for one more ram air system. Price: $650.00 + shipping from FT Lauderdale. The twin air cooling fan system is quite simple to make. Go to Home depot, buy angle aluminum, heavy grade, buy twin 13" fans, 900-1500 rpm, commercial grade rivet gun, cut to length when you remove the radiator for the frame per my video.
@@johnmoore4961 Thanks for getting back to me. What does the ram system include, price seams up there? Did you have to modify the existing scoop ? What brand of fans and supplier did you use for the cooling? FYI I have a 60 with the 430 and the rare sunroof and factory air power steering, power brakes. Along with a 56, 62, 66 all convertibles except the 60 Love the birds!! Thanks, Greg
@@gregwhitcher4490 Hello Greg, I have all parts to make an intake system per my last correspondence. I am quite busy now, but can complete the ram air, just as you see it in the video, end of July. If you are interested, let me know. I will up in PDX in August. Where are you located?
Great video. I have a 1960:Y code three speed manual shift. Do you have any info regarding these? My dad bought it for my mom in 1974 from the original owner. He told me it was really rare. Your exhaust manifolds are amazing. Did you restore those? Mine are gastly and my donot that connects the. Exhaust has a hole in it.
I use one pint lead additive, one pint 108 octane booster, 2 ounces ethanol treatment, and a one quart of marvel mystery oil to every 20 gallons premium fuel. With a 352 motor, use half, as those were gutless wonders rated at 300 HP, but really 250 HP. If you can find a set of 1960 close chamber heads, those make a 352 sing! You need the phelonic carb spacer for the heat problem. If vapor lock persists, it is either the heat at the fuel pump and fuel bowl, or you have an early gas tank in which the 59 thunderbird tank was not vented. After driving, take off the gas cap... Do you hear any release of pressure or vapor lock, sucking in sounds? Both are bad.
@@johnmoore4961 Mine has 73,000 original miles. I have had my heads redone, I am using an aluminum intake manifold, Holley automatic carb. Running a one wire 100 amp power master gm alternator. The last thing I have added to the motor is a new electronic distributor. Now I am using the ole trick of wooden safety pins all up and down the fuel line. Mine was one of the last made in July of 1960. My issue with headers is the tolerance around my shifting levers. The stock exhaust manifolds barley fit and they are slim line.I am not a mechanic and it sure is hard finding people who know these motors anymore. Most T bird videos are just walk around and the salesman really doesn’t know the car. Thank you for your time.
Nice job. The Ford products of the 1950s and 60s were always my favorite.
There was a 3-2 bbl setup available for that particular engine. As far as I know it was a bolt-on only available thru parts. I've only seen 1 with a air cleaner for it & it was sitting in a parts room in the '60s. Supposedly rated at 400 hp.
Thank you John,, for that fine forensic analysis....
Love the car. Great job on the fresh air system !
Thanks John,
I've got the 58 with a 352, You have given me some ideas for sure. I haven't noticed it running hot so much as I notice it stumbling when hot, I'll try just the open air cleaner for now to see if it makes a difference, but, I think the air cleaners are similar for the autolite carb that was original to the car..
Yes a rare Bird indeed! I must note that the biggest choke down of your induction system is the small diameter air filter and its short height. It looks like a K&N so it probably flows well but possibly not enough for 430 cubic inches at W.O.T. The heat stove pipe is necessary in most cooler or humid climates to prevent carburetor icing and improve cold engine performance and drivebility. I would reinstall it unless you live in the desert or never drive it unless it is fully warmed up. Nice idea of using excess ram air to cool the right rear side of the engine compartment.
I like what you have done
Although you will likely need a Master's Degree in Automotive Engineering to understand any of this high-flying auto engineering and retrofitting stuff, what I got from it was that the original Ford T-birds were not designed well at all. You basically had to do a major re-build / expansion under the hood, like John did here, to make the vehicle usable. Problems of mega-overheating running it at 92 degrees air temp? How about living in Carefree, Arizona? Where summertime temps range in the 105 to 122 degree interval.
Police cars often have a cooler for the power steering fluid - mine did in addition to having a cooler for the oil.
Fantastic I am going to build one for my 1960 352 engine should be amazing thx a lot 👍👍
Cool looking Bird.
Wow John if I had a J-code '59 Bird I'd have one of your cold air induction systems. It seems to work extremely well and I love how u made the fake hood induction functional. The '58-'60 birds are some of my favourite cars of all time and of course with the rare 430 under the hood ('59 + '60) The mid-year Oldsmobiles , especially the '57 J2 are others I really like. Sooo much love for cars of that era when I was early teens -- limiting factors today are money and space. I'll be looking for more of your collection. Congrats and kudos for keeping these beautiful babies 'alive'. Love the '63 Country Sedan --simply beautiful - and 'the piece de resistance' of course was the bulletproof gem under the hood. I drooled over the 390 but hungered for the 427. Nothing was more magical for a ford fan back in the day and i was a very impressionable 15 when that one was born. I did come close back in the late '70's with a '68 Shelby GT500 with the venerable and torquey 428 but that was the 'little brother' to the 427. subscribed for more.
A little known fact not all 68 Shelby GT500's received their 428 Cobra Jets because the factories ran short so some cars got 390 Police Interceptors
Thanks Colin! Best to you!
Some before and after 1/4 mile times and MPH would have been interesting to see how much difference the cold air made...
Black walls look cool on the T bird.
ahh the old heated air system, it would take warm air from the exhaust push it thru to the carbs, until the engine warmed up then the flapper in the snorkel would shut and let in cold air in most cars in the 60s and all thru the 70s had them, worked great until they didnt
Well done, need one on my 65 with the 390
Hey John,
Nice idea! Just one question. How well does it work in the rain?
thanks for sharing.
Hello Fran, I sold the Wagon about 9 years ago. A guy in Pennsylvania bought it.
I don't agree about positive pressure through the hood scoop. Above hood is negative pressure same reason wings create lift. I wish I didn't know that if the hood unlatches at speed the back edge will snap to top of windshield. Also why old cars front ends lift at high speed. But negative pressure is better as it pulls hot air out the scoop but that means you're reducing intake flow. The only positive pressure is base of the windshield, best intake source is fresh air plenum in front of the windshield or the grill. I also believe your air cleaner element not near big enough. Not that you need more power from that wonderful engine but even Ebirds giant element restricts above 3800 rpm. I dyno tune my yblock and FE builds so this is something I know about. I ran a stock J model hard for several years early 70s never overheated. Every time I find an over heating yblock or F/E its wrong timing or corrosion blocked coolant passages. All my engines including high performance have 165 degree (tested) thermostats and only electric fans which rarely turn on regardless of conditions. P/S, I caught K/N very wrong about their element flow rates. My current 59 bird is 390 built for 87 octane, proper designed long tube headers, 2 1/2" exhaust with stock t85 OD trans, disk brakes and rear sway bar, by far my favorite driver.
I’m thinking your cooling issue is more related to not having a fan shroud - the lack of a fan clutch and inefficient fan design also do not help. The fuel pump location on the MEL engines also contributed to heating the fuel. Fun fact about the often overlooked MEL engine: the first regularly street driven 9 second 1/4 mile car was 6-71 supercharged 430 powered T-bucket.
Uncle John is that you?🤔
Hey John I have reached out to you
Waterless antifreeze Evans coolant helps
Hey John have you produced the ram air system or have info in how to build along with the fan system?
Yes. I have all parts for one more ram air system. Price: $650.00 + shipping from FT Lauderdale. The twin air cooling fan system is quite simple to make. Go to Home depot, buy angle aluminum, heavy grade, buy twin 13" fans, 900-1500 rpm, commercial grade rivet gun, cut to length when you remove the radiator for the frame per my video.
@@johnmoore4961 Thanks for getting back to me. What does the ram system include, price seams up there? Did you have to modify the existing scoop ? What brand of fans and supplier did you use for the cooling? FYI I have a 60 with the 430 and the rare sunroof and factory air power steering, power brakes. Along with a 56, 62, 66 all convertibles except the 60 Love the birds!!
Thanks, Greg
@@gregwhitcher4490 I'm too busy with work. Where you located ? send your number concealed. I'll call you.
@@johnmoore4961 hey John , Greg here not sure how to do that on this platform
@@gregwhitcher4490 Hello Greg, I have all parts to make an intake system per my last correspondence. I am quite busy now, but can complete the ram air, just as you see it in the video, end of July. If you are interested, let me know. I will up in PDX in August. Where are you located?
Great video. I have a 1960:Y code three speed manual shift. Do you have any info regarding these? My dad bought it for my mom in 1974 from the original owner. He told me it was really rare. Your exhaust manifolds are amazing. Did you restore those? Mine are gastly and my donot that connects the. Exhaust has a hole in it.
I do not have any info... Is this a 390 engine? Please upload a video, that would be great!
I also have the same vapor lock issues. Do you use a lead additive?
Please see th-cam.com/video/kj_vbEFFFBQ/w-d-xo.html
I use one pint lead additive, one pint 108 octane booster, 2 ounces ethanol treatment, and a one quart of marvel mystery oil to every 20 gallons premium fuel. With a 352 motor, use half, as those were gutless wonders rated at 300 HP, but really 250 HP. If you can find a set of 1960 close chamber heads, those make a 352 sing! You need the phelonic carb spacer for the heat problem. If vapor lock persists, it is either the heat at the fuel pump and fuel bowl, or you have an early gas tank in which the 59 thunderbird tank was not vented. After driving, take off the gas cap... Do you hear any release of pressure or vapor lock, sucking in sounds? Both are bad.
@@johnmoore4961 Mine has 73,000 original miles. I have had my heads redone, I am using an aluminum intake manifold, Holley automatic carb. Running a one wire 100 amp power master gm alternator. The last thing I have added to the motor is a new electronic distributor. Now I am using the ole trick of wooden safety pins all up and down the fuel line. Mine was one of the last made in July of 1960. My issue with headers is the tolerance around my shifting levers. The stock exhaust manifolds barley fit and they are slim line.I am not a mechanic and it sure is hard finding people who know these motors anymore. Most T bird videos are just walk around and the salesman really doesn’t know the car. Thank you for your time.
@@walleyechannel What size engine?
@@johnmoore4961 352 Interceptor Y block. Three speed manual column shift.
Okay...
Some weird science at play here
What’s so weird about it ❓ Makes sense to me 🤷♀️🙄
BAD CHAD JUST HACKED OE OF THESE UP.
Not too much hack... moved the B pillar/rear window forward, which looked really good👍.
@@jenniferwhitewolf3784 your right but dropped it from a really rare car worth 80,000 to a car worth 5000.
I admit it is rare but also the ugliest era of Thunderbirds ever made.
My name is also John Moore and I have a 1959 thunderbird right now it has a 352 in it. But the vin says it's suppose to be a 430 j code
Will isn't that a small world. If you put a video on You tube, video the door tag also, I'd like to see it!