I just called DJM and they’re very quick to state that their kits don’t work on F250s, I need to measure my kingpin and watch your stuff because I’m jonesin’ to lower this truck and you’ve proved that it’s possible!
@shaolinwat No they told me the same thing then I e mailed the tech guy on there website and asked for the measurements. They measure from the center of the coil spring bolt to the center of the end bushing it matched my 250 Beams with 7/8 king pin .
One guy on here just swapped out his big king pin 250 spindles for the smaller king pin 68-70 but also had to buy the pitman arm drag link tie rod ends for a 68-70 as well . If your tie Rods mount bottom up the castle nut is on top 👌 if they mount top down the nut is on the bottom good chance is the heavy duty 8 500 gvw front end . There are a lot of options tho 1974 up F100 used the same single piston disc brake Spindle as the light duty F250 74 up with single piston caliper only different is the 100.used 5 lug 250 had 8 lug rotor . DJM is a great 👍 set up although I moved on to John Rods 4.5" f100 Drop Beams I waited for a year for them although .
Yeah not the splits I have 16.5 non splittys the guy took the valve stem out and once the tire reached around 15 psi it just de beaded itself 😲. I have 4 16x7 I'm going to use at least in the front .
Thanks it was parked for 14 years in a guys driveway and fortunately he didn't change a lot of the original stuff or hack the wiring very little rust must had been covered .
Thanks for watching i must add to this video this information. 1967-1972 spindles on F250 and Camper Special models are 7/8 king pin the same as a F100 thats why the beams fit . If you have a 1973-1979 Ford changed the F250 GVW rating and started using the bigger 1 1/16th king pin that will not work and no one makes a beam that will fit Why ? The tie rod mounts top down with nut on bottom . There might be a exception if your 73-79 F250 has the light duty single piston disc brake caliper and your.tie rod mounts bottom up.
No I'm not going to run them anymore I had a whole lot of them over the last three yrs no safety bead is not good watched them de bead at around 15 psi .
Thanks for posting all your work. Something you can consider doing to correct the negative camber. Redrill the I beam pivot holes an 1 inch to an 1 1/8 higher. There’s pictures on the internet of guys that did it. It raises the end of the beam and brings the camber back. I’m considering welding the old hole closed if it’s necessary. My other concern is the radius arm bushing at the frame, is it twisting too much? Didn’t see it in your videos.
I have read that on forums before were someone drilled the hole 1" higher like you said although the DJM beams are thicker than the stock beams . I remember reading they did it with stock beams just using a 2" drop spring then drilling the hole1" higher I would need to check my clearance and see if it's possible but yes that will help if clearance allows it . As far as the radius arm bushings no excessive angles the drop beam lowers the truck by raising the wheel mounting point 3" everything else is the same the radius arms are perfectly straight although since the wheel is 3" higher up you need the tie rod replicators .
@@TheThirdWheel618 Yeh, the djm beams take up more space. You’re correct, you would have to mock it up and check clearances. I have djm beams on my ‘67 f100, recently got a pair of 4 1/2 inch beams from JohnRods to swap in. I would also like to get another 1/2 to 1 inch lower with a shorter coil. If it affects the camber, I’ll look at redrilling the pivot holes higher. I was considering cutting and stepping the radius arms too, but that may not be necessary if you’re not having trouble with the shorter coil. Thanks for help. And I agree, the crown vic is too wide for these trucks, there’s easier less invasive ways to lower them.
@@hvspeed6102 well I would like to choose a full bolt on front end .but I don't want to pull my whole front clip off and take the motor out and all that to cut the cross member . If I had nothing but time and money that would be great I did order Jon's as well it's been 6 months already I'm expecting a call soon I hope 😲. DJM are good beams it's just there made for 3" so if you want more your going to notice bad camber funny I had a set of Air baggit beams before they were 5" drop I had the full 5'" and I still had a little positive camber they do not make those well but they were skinny like the stock beams so no way I was going to hit the cross member that low . I'm looking forward to the Jon's beams I might need a 2" lower rear spring shackle to go with it .
@@TheThirdWheel618 Yeh, it was like an 8 month wait for Johns beams. A couple things to consider, that might help you or someone else. If you’re ever considering going to disc brakes, the ‘73-‘79 factory Ford F100 disc set up is 1 1/2 inches wider on our ‘72 and earlier trucks. Not sure about the F250, but probably same. JohnRods has a 1 1/2 narrower beam, which is what I went with, to get better tire/ fender clearance. Another thing I found, comparing the djm beam with the JohnRods, the djm beam is only a 2 1/2 drop, not 3. So that’s why you saw such a difference with the airbaggit beams.
@@hvspeed6102 it is wider on the 250 disc as well I had the big 2 piston monster 250 calipers on it before for moc up and I could see a big difference. 8 mo huh ? Yeah he said 6 but I have not heard anything from him yet .
Correction the yokes are actually 1360 Since the truck has a gear vendor in it and they use a 1360 yoke for the gear vendor. I could have used a1330 1360 u-joint and saved a little bit of money at the Dana 60 axle but since I was running a one piece driveline I change the yoke to a 1360 at the Dana 60 as well.
I wouldn't know the spark plug from the steering wheel.if it wasn't for those forums F.T.E / Fordification / Ford trucks .com Good group Good Stuff there ...
Well, that you've had it for a while and drove it. Do you recommend just cutting the front stock coils? I've also heard of guys using coils for ford explorer I'm going to do the axle flip in the back. Like you did just wanna get it sitting nice and level
Is yours a 250? Or a F100? Reason why I ask is the 250 has a Dana 60 and the tube is thicker than the dana 44 small difference. The beams are nice but there's not much there for play if you used explorer springs you" might have " I say might because every beam is going to be different truck to truck in my opinion it does not seem like they put the 2 degrees of positive camber that the factory does if they did you can use a 2" drop spring and have no camber at all 3" drop beams then 2" spring and you would have 5" total clean and straight at the wheels . I cut 1/2 coil off my stock springs and it gave me 3 3/4 drop and I had 1 degrees on the driver's and 1.5 on the passenger . No biggie it's not terrible but it is noticable now with the 6" 🙃 and Dana 60 it sat almost perfect level back a lil more lower but almost cant tell with a dana 44 it will be level since the axle tube is smaller .
To remedy the camber here's what I have heard not done myself but they drill a hole exactly 1" to 1 1/4 to 1.5" higher than the axle pivot bushing hole 🕳️ now it will pull or tilt the wheels taking the camber out and you have the play to add more drop at the spring . I have not done this although that was the trick in the day when they would just cut there springs and use the higher hole to take the camber out with that you might get the 5" out of it but if you do use caution first by pushing the beam up 1" before drilling and lifting it at the spindle end and see if the beam hits that big ugly overkill of a cross member first. With my cut springs and 3 3/4 to 4" I never hit the beam on the cross member the passenger side is closest i lifted he beam with pivot bolt in no springs or anything by hand and cut my bumpstops around 1/4" before the beam hit the cross member there's no doubt the DJM beams can take a 2" drop spring it's just the camber will show .
I will add if you're just planning on doing the axle flip and reusing you Dana 60 spring perch re welding it underneath it will sit level with 1/2 coil cut off your stock springs. I used the aftermarket bracket that the axle sits on and it adds around 1/4 " or a little more since it sits on top of the welded on spring perch now with the axle on top of the springs anything you put under the axle will lower the rear of the truck if I explained it right . Also the bracket is why I got 6" in the rear just reusing the stock perch might be around 5.5"
I actually switched to Jon Rods beams although it took 1 year and 3 months to get them I just got them 2 weeks ago . I posted a unbox video it's like 4 min I'm going to start the install this weekend his beams are 4.5" drop with the stock spring and the common drops are his beams with 2" lowering spring and rear flip 🙃 with 2" drop hangers total 6" front and 8" rear . He got so big so fast just by a video that F100 world craiger co. Put out he stop taking orders right now 6 mo. Wait turned into over a year for me .
Moog sells kits , e bay , Parts Geek , napa should list them as well . Know you gross Vehicle weight when ordering I'm sure it will come up on napa web site or Moog .
Love it 🤩 first time on the Fwy it was like driving a brand new truck . With the 390 C.i. I didn't want adapters and all that easier just to bolt it on the back of my original transmission I haven't mastered the gear splitter other that basis overdrive but never go back now ....
I will add this for any classic car that had a original 3 spd auto or even a 4 SPD stick overdrive is the best bang for your buck . I spent some cash and time on headers , putting a 4 bbl intake and carburetor mild cam all for a slight gain in HP . I put the gear vendor in it that was a huge difference and what it needed all along I like how it will kick down 4th to 3rd at 65-70 mph when it was a 3 spd it could not do that since 65-70 is too fast for 2nd gear but not for 3rd no 4bbl was needed .
Amazing truck! I have a 70 F250 camper special that I’m getting ready to do the same as you and my truck looks almost identical excluding color. All the way down to the wheels and tires. Do you have exactly what I have so your video is by far the most informational I have come across, so thank you x100!! Quick question, do you have the flex O-Matic rear leaf shackle? And if so, have you had any issues with the flip kit using this shackle? Also, if you were to take your best, guess how many degrees your camber is sitting at right now what would you say? I am lucky enough to have a friend who builds I-beams for prerunners so he will be doing my beam modifications for me, which gives me the pleasure of, adding a few more degrees of camber while he’s doing it.. Thank you again
Thank you appreciate your comment yes I have the flex o matic no issue with the flip 🙃 only the shock mounts on the axle will be off after the flip. They need to be moved over to the inside you can leave it but better to re weld them a little over to the in side .you will see it after the flip . My advice on the beams the factory beams have around 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of positive camber made into them the DJM beams do not so if you want to go lower than the 3" with DJM 2" drop spring you will need about. 2 degrees of positive camber added into the beam . I added a 1" drop spring and I had 1 degrees on the passenger and 1.5 degrees drivers side negative camber so to make it easy add around 1 degree of positive camber for every inch lower you intend to go .
Also .. if your planning on using the firebird Industrial flip bracket it's a good idea to have that welded to the axle once you get your pinion angles set if not on a hard pull the axle can rotate since it's not fixed in the bracket
No that's actually a adco aftermarket sway bar it came with the L brackets only down side you need to drill a hole in the beams or weld it on . The factory ones are junk yard only or people asking crazy money for them the adco was only 150-179 ish .
@TheThirdWheel618 I that it was a ccp sway bar I put mine on today but had to make a bracket for drivers side . Passenger fit perfectly using the hole like you did. But the driver's side was about half an inch away. My problem could have forced it in but I just made a new bracket
Sweet! I think im going to grab a set. Im going for a more factory look and my front springs are sagging pretty good. Im hoping to get a slight lift out of them..
Can you share link on where to buy 6" lowering on the Back? I have 1968 ford f250 camper special and I'm having trouble finding lowering kits that fit f250. Thanks
It's not going to say F-250 It'll say F100 and F-150 so if you don't want to C notches or the u-bolts or the bottom plates or any of that you can call or text that company and ask him for just the brackets they did fit my Dana 60 axle. The reason why I didn't use the u-bolt to the bottom plates is because the F-250 was a lot heavier duty then the ones that are supplied in that kit. The u-bolts are smaller for an F100 I replace my u-bolts with a kit from Amazon the brand was super lift I'll get you the details soon.
I had to use a one piece because I added a Gear Vendor overdrive . The tail section was longer than the C6 and if I left the 2 piece the shorty drive line with carrier would only be 12-14" long . The one piece is 58 5/8 " long 3" tube better option . You should not need to cut your drive line only measure from ground to a fixed point on the axle or use a degree finder to put the axle pitch the same after the flip of not what could happen is your axle with be higher that your transmission. The drive line will be going down toward the transmission instead of up like it is factory. I put shims or spacers under my trans cross member and lifted my transmission/ engine up to compensate for this not saying you will need to but it's all inline now .
Also DJM does not provide flip kits with there beams they use the drop spring hanger and rear leaf shackle to achieve 4" in the rear and 3" in front with there beams if you use a flip it's 6" in the rear & will be slightly lower than the front . Easy way to compensate is 1" drop spring or 1/4 to no more than 1/2 cut off stock coil spring go 1 size smaller tire in front or combo of both .
Yeah 👍 I found out that 65-72 F250 only used a 7/8 king pin that's the same size as a F100, I measured mine and it was 7/8 it should read around 0.85 on a mic gauge . The bigger 1.05 or 1/1/16 bigger king pin beams only one who makes that is Fire Bird Industrial / air baggit special order , you can take your dust cover off the spindle and mic gauge it or on your driver's door look at your vin tag if it says 6,800 or 6,200 GVW more than likely you have the smaller king pin . If it says 6,900 it's the big one for sure although like I was saying before 72 they all had the smaller F100 size kingpin . I went to the junk yard recently and I took those big dual piston disc brakes off a 77 F250 XLT and the vin # said only 6,900GVW and it had the big kingpins on it my vin tag says 7,500 GVW and I have the 7/8 F100 size kingpin on my 69 After 75 or so almost all F250 had that big king pin . You can still use F100 lowering beams on your 250 if it's the later big king pin although you will need to change your spindles to the older F250 design or use F100 spindles but they would be 5 lug in front .
I bought mine when I first bought the truck for 150 per tire there expensive now like 180 to 200 although on e bay you can get them for 180 . I kept the 16.5" rims I also have 4 16" inch on stand by the tires are cheaper although the power king super highway WLD 89 is a nostalgic tire from when the truck rolled off the line if you tried to buy a 16" from Coker tire like that it would be like 300 per tire the 16.5" are 130 each .
Hi did you have any issue with pitman arm being to close to the steering thats in front of it mine is all most touching rubber boot You might build a slip a dollar in there😂
They do get close but never touched the previous owner installed the adjuster sleeve on the outside as well and the adjuster still went through the radius arm .
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
I just called DJM and they’re very quick to state that their kits don’t work on F250s, I need to measure my kingpin and watch your stuff because I’m jonesin’ to lower this truck and you’ve proved that it’s possible!
@shaolinwat No they told me the same thing then I e mailed the tech guy on there website and asked for the measurements. They measure from the center of the coil spring bolt to the center of the end bushing it matched my 250 Beams with 7/8 king pin .
One guy on here just swapped out his big king pin 250 spindles for the smaller king pin 68-70 but also had to buy the pitman arm drag link tie rod ends for a 68-70 as well .
If your tie Rods mount bottom up the castle nut is on top 👌 if they mount top down the nut is on the bottom good chance is the heavy duty 8 500 gvw front end . There are a lot of options tho 1974 up F100 used the same single piston disc brake Spindle as the light duty F250 74 up with single piston caliper only different is the 100.used 5 lug 250 had 8 lug rotor . DJM is a great 👍 set up although I moved on to John Rods 4.5" f100 Drop Beams I waited for a year for them although .
Thanks for the info getting ready to do my 65 🤘👍
When I had 16.5 split rims on my 70 gmc nobody would mount tires on them.
Yeah not the splits I have 16.5 non splittys the guy took the valve stem out and once the tire reached around 15 psi it just de beaded itself 😲.
I have 4 16x7 I'm going to use at least in the front .
Thanks for the quick response and all your help
Nice truck , you did alot of work . I had a '69 f 100 , same color.
Thanks it was parked for 14 years in a guys driveway and fortunately he didn't change a lot of the original stuff or hack the wiring very little rust must had been covered .
Paid 2,500 for it 7 years ago although all the good stuff had to be replaced
Great information!
Trucks looking good and I get what you are saying about the CV swap. After riding in both I went with the QA1 system on my F100.
Thanks for watching i must add to this video this information. 1967-1972 spindles on F250 and Camper Special models are 7/8 king pin the same as a F100 thats why the beams fit .
If you have a 1973-1979 Ford changed the F250 GVW rating and started using the bigger 1 1/16th king pin that will not work and no one makes a beam that will fit Why ? The tie rod mounts top down with nut on bottom . There might be a exception if your 73-79 F250 has the light duty single piston disc brake caliper and your.tie rod mounts bottom up.
That’s perfect!
Nica Car !!
It looks pretty cool 👍👍✌️
✌️🤓
OLY’S GARAGE sent me 🤜🏼🤛🏼
😊✌️
Have you thought about center flipping the 16.5 wheels
No I'm not going to run them anymore I had a whole lot of them over the last three yrs no safety bead is not good watched them de bead at around 15 psi .
Thanks for posting all your work. Something you can consider doing to correct the negative camber. Redrill the I beam pivot holes an 1 inch to an 1 1/8 higher. There’s pictures on the internet of guys that did it. It raises the end of the beam and brings the camber back. I’m considering welding the old hole closed if it’s necessary.
My other concern is the radius arm bushing at the frame, is it twisting too much? Didn’t see it in your videos.
I have read that on forums before were someone drilled the hole 1" higher like you said although the DJM beams are thicker than the stock beams . I remember reading they did it with stock beams just using a 2" drop spring then drilling the hole1" higher I would need to check my clearance and see if it's possible but yes that will help if clearance allows it .
As far as the radius arm bushings no excessive angles the drop beam lowers the truck by raising the wheel mounting point 3" everything else is the same the radius arms are perfectly straight although since the wheel is 3" higher up you need the tie rod replicators .
@@TheThirdWheel618 Yeh, the djm beams take up more space. You’re correct, you would have to mock it up and check clearances. I have djm beams on my ‘67 f100, recently got a pair of 4 1/2 inch beams from JohnRods to swap in. I would also like to get another 1/2 to 1 inch lower with a shorter coil. If it affects the camber, I’ll look at redrilling the pivot holes higher. I was considering cutting and stepping the radius arms too, but that may not be necessary if you’re not having trouble with the shorter coil. Thanks for help. And I agree, the crown vic is too wide for these trucks, there’s easier less invasive ways to lower them.
@@hvspeed6102 well I would like to choose a full bolt on front end .but I don't want to pull my whole front clip off and take the motor out and all that to cut the cross member .
If I had nothing but time and money that would be great I did order Jon's as well it's been 6 months already I'm expecting a call soon I hope 😲.
DJM are good beams it's just there made for 3" so if you want more your going to notice bad camber funny I had a set of Air baggit beams before they were 5" drop I had the full 5'" and I still had a little positive camber they do not make those well but they were skinny like the stock beams so no way I was going to hit the cross member that low .
I'm looking forward to the Jon's beams I might need a 2" lower rear spring shackle to go with it .
@@TheThirdWheel618 Yeh, it was like an 8 month wait for Johns beams. A couple things to consider, that might help you or someone else. If you’re ever considering going to disc brakes, the ‘73-‘79 factory Ford F100 disc set up is 1 1/2 inches wider on our ‘72 and earlier trucks. Not sure about the F250, but probably same. JohnRods has a 1 1/2 narrower beam, which is what I went with, to get better tire/ fender clearance. Another thing I found, comparing the djm beam with the JohnRods, the djm beam is only a 2 1/2 drop, not 3. So that’s why you saw such a difference with the airbaggit beams.
@@hvspeed6102 it is wider on the 250 disc as well I had the big 2 piston monster 250 calipers on it before for moc up and I could see a big difference. 8 mo huh ? Yeah he said 6 but I have not heard anything from him yet .
Correction the yokes are actually 1360 Since the truck has a gear vendor in it and they use a 1360 yoke for the gear vendor.
I could have used a1330 1360 u-joint and saved a little bit of money at the Dana 60 axle but since I was running a one piece driveline I change the yoke to a 1360 at the Dana 60 as well.
Haven't I seen your truck on the F.T.E Forums for Bump side trucks.?
I wouldn't know the spark plug from the steering wheel.if it wasn't for those forums F.T.E / Fordification / Ford trucks .com Good group Good Stuff there ...
Well, that you've had it for a while and drove it. Do you recommend just cutting the front stock coils? I've also heard of guys using coils for ford explorer I'm going to do the axle flip in the back. Like you did just wanna get it sitting nice and level
Is yours a 250? Or a F100? Reason why I ask is the 250 has a Dana 60 and the tube is thicker than the dana 44 small difference.
The beams are nice but there's not much there for play if you used explorer springs you" might have " I say might because every beam is going to be different truck to truck in my opinion it does not seem like they put the 2 degrees of positive camber that the factory does if they did you can use a 2" drop spring and have no camber at all 3" drop beams then 2" spring and you would have 5" total clean and straight at the wheels . I cut 1/2 coil off my stock springs and it gave me 3 3/4 drop and I had 1 degrees on the driver's and 1.5 on the passenger .
No biggie it's not terrible but it is noticable now with the 6" 🙃 and Dana 60 it sat almost perfect level back a lil more lower but almost cant tell with a dana 44 it will be level since the axle tube is smaller .
@@TheThirdWheel618 65 f250
To remedy the camber here's what I have heard not done myself but they drill a hole exactly 1" to 1 1/4 to 1.5" higher than the axle pivot bushing hole 🕳️ now it will pull or tilt the wheels taking the camber out and you have the play to add more drop at the spring . I have not done this although that was the trick in the day when they would just cut there springs and use the higher hole to take the camber out with that you might get the 5" out of it but if you do use caution first by pushing the beam up 1" before drilling and lifting it at the spindle end and see if the beam hits that big ugly overkill of a cross member first.
With my cut springs and 3 3/4 to 4" I never hit the beam on the cross member the passenger side is closest i lifted he beam with pivot bolt in no springs or anything by hand and cut my bumpstops around 1/4" before the beam hit the cross member there's no doubt the DJM beams can take a 2" drop spring it's just the camber will show .
I will add if you're just planning on doing the axle flip and reusing you Dana 60 spring perch re welding it underneath it will sit level with 1/2 coil cut off your stock springs. I used the aftermarket bracket that the axle sits on and it adds around 1/4 " or a little more since it sits on top of the welded on spring perch now with the axle on top of the springs anything you put under the axle will lower the rear of the truck if I explained it right . Also the bracket is why I got 6" in the rear just reusing the stock perch might be around 5.5"
I actually switched to Jon Rods beams although it took 1 year and 3 months to get them I just got them 2 weeks ago . I posted a unbox video it's like 4 min I'm going to start the install this weekend his beams are 4.5" drop with the stock spring and the common drops are his beams with 2" lowering spring and rear flip 🙃 with 2" drop hangers total 6" front and 8" rear . He got so big so fast just by a video that F100 world craiger co. Put out he stop taking orders right now 6 mo. Wait turned into over a year for me .
Where are you finding kingpin kits for these trucks im trying to get a kit for my 76 e 150 cant find anywhere. anthing helps😅
Moog sells kits , e bay , Parts Geek , napa should list them as well . Know you gross Vehicle weight when ordering I'm sure it will come up on napa web site or Moog .
How are you liking that gear vendor? Im thinking about adding one on my c4.
Love it 🤩 first time on the Fwy it was like driving a brand new truck .
With the 390 C.i. I didn't want adapters and all that easier just to bolt it on the back of my original transmission I haven't mastered the gear splitter other that basis overdrive but never go back now ....
I will add this for any classic car that had a original 3 spd auto or even a 4 SPD stick overdrive is the best bang for your buck .
I spent some cash and time on headers , putting a 4 bbl intake and carburetor mild cam all for a slight gain in HP . I put the gear vendor in it that was a huge difference and what it needed all along I like how it will kick down 4th to 3rd at 65-70 mph when it was a 3 spd it could not do that since 65-70 is too fast for 2nd gear but not for 3rd no 4bbl was needed .
@@TheThirdWheel618 Thats great mine will go on a 54 Ford Customline with 302 and a C4. I like the idea of just bolting it on as well.
Amazing truck! I have a 70 F250 camper special that I’m getting ready to do the same as you and my truck looks almost identical excluding color. All the way down to the wheels and tires. Do you have exactly what I have so your video is by far the most informational I have come across, so thank you x100!! Quick question, do you have the flex O-Matic rear leaf shackle? And if so, have you had any issues with the flip kit using this shackle? Also, if you were to take your best, guess how many degrees your camber is sitting at right now what would you say? I am lucky enough to have a friend who builds I-beams for prerunners so he will be doing my beam modifications for me, which gives me the pleasure of, adding a few more degrees of camber while he’s doing it.. Thank you again
Thank you appreciate your comment yes I have the flex o matic no issue with the flip 🙃 only the shock mounts on the axle will be off after the flip. They need to be moved over to the inside you can leave it but better to re weld them a little over to the in side .you will see it after the flip .
My advice on the beams the factory beams have around 1.5 to 2.0 degrees of positive camber made into them the DJM beams do not so if you want to go lower than the 3" with DJM 2" drop spring you will need about. 2 degrees of positive camber added into the beam .
I added a 1" drop spring and I had 1 degrees on the passenger and 1.5 degrees drivers side negative camber so to make it easy add around 1 degree of positive camber for every inch lower you intend to go .
Also .. if your planning on using the firebird Industrial flip bracket it's a good idea to have that welded to the axle once you get your pinion angles set if not on a hard pull the axle can rotate since it's not fixed in the bracket
Did you make different brackets for mounting the sway bar to the beams
No that's actually a adco aftermarket sway bar it came with the L brackets only down side you need to drill a hole in the beams or weld it on .
The factory ones are junk yard only or people asking crazy money for them the adco was only 150-179 ish .
@TheThirdWheel618 I that it was a ccp sway bar I put mine on today but had to make a bracket for drivers side . Passenger fit perfectly using the hole like you did. But the driver's side was about half an inch away. My problem could have forced it in but I just made a new bracket
@@PatinatruckGarage there's a lot of them out there mine was an Adco
Cool video! What are you doing with the MOOG springs? I can use a set for my Camper Special! ;)
I'm actually keeping them there fairly cheap on summit I think 80 bucks shipped is what I paid .
Sweet! I think im going to grab a set. Im going for a more factory look and my front springs are sagging pretty good. Im hoping to get a slight lift out of them..
Can you share link on where to buy 6" lowering on the Back? I have 1968 ford f250 camper special and I'm having trouble finding lowering kits that fit f250. Thanks
@@MarioVargas1971 www.ebay.com/itm/163675462955?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1BDqelVAtQcG5DqoX_TciqQ33&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=163675462955&targetid=2321310837104&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9073456&poi=&campaignid=21214302385&mkgroupid=161029887581&rlsatarget=pla-2321310837104&abcId=9407524&merchantid=113788906&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw3P-2BhAEEiwA3yPhwFKgy2ZJiLxIdk8YEf7SdTa8wwAk3QBXSc82dSki1KUsL_ucRxCtvBoCjpwQAvD_BwE
It's not going to say F-250
It'll say F100 and F-150 so if you don't want to C notches or the u-bolts or the bottom plates or any of that you can call or text that company and ask him for just the brackets they did fit my Dana 60 axle. The reason why I didn't use the u-bolt to the bottom plates is because the F-250 was a lot heavier duty then the ones that are supplied in that kit. The u-bolts are smaller for an F100 I replace my u-bolts with a kit from Amazon the brand was super lift I'll get you the details soon.
There called axle flip brakes to fit 3.25" round tube axle
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I know you said you shortened your driveline and did a one piece will I have cut my 2 piece down with the axle flip kit
I had to use a one piece because I added a Gear Vendor overdrive . The tail section was longer than the C6 and if I left the 2 piece the shorty drive line with carrier would only be 12-14" long .
The one piece is 58 5/8 " long 3" tube better option .
You should not need to cut your drive line only measure from ground to a fixed point on the axle or use a degree finder to put the axle pitch the same after the flip of not what could happen is your axle with be higher that your transmission.
The drive line will be going down toward the transmission instead of up like it is factory.
I put shims or spacers under my trans cross member and lifted my transmission/ engine up to compensate for this not saying you will need to but it's all inline now .
Also DJM does not provide flip kits with there beams they use the drop spring hanger and rear leaf shackle to achieve 4" in the rear and 3" in front with there beams if you use a flip it's 6" in the rear & will be slightly lower than the front . Easy way to compensate is 1" drop spring or 1/4 to no more than 1/2 cut off stock coil spring go 1 size smaller tire in front or combo of both .
so the beams you ended up using are for a F100? thats all i seen DJM are selling
Yeah 👍 I found out that 65-72 F250 only used a 7/8 king pin that's the same size as a F100, I measured mine and it was 7/8 it should read around 0.85 on a mic gauge .
The bigger 1.05 or 1/1/16 bigger king pin beams only one who makes that is Fire Bird Industrial / air baggit special order , you can take your dust cover off the spindle and mic gauge it or on your driver's door look at your vin tag if it says 6,800 or 6,200 GVW more than likely you have the smaller king pin .
If it says 6,900 it's the big one for sure although like I was saying before 72 they all had the smaller F100 size kingpin .
I went to the junk yard recently and I took those big dual piston disc brakes off a 77 F250 XLT and the vin # said only 6,900GVW and it had the big kingpins on it my vin tag says 7,500 GVW and I have the 7/8 F100 size kingpin on my 69 After 75 or so almost all F250 had that big king pin .
You can still use F100 lowering beams on your 250 if it's the later big king pin although you will need to change your spindles to the older F250 design or use F100 spindles but they would be 5 lug in front .
I can't find any tires for them. Does anyone even make that size anymore?
Offer up occasionally has almost giveaways on firestone transforce HT 9.50x16.5 or they have the classic look bias ply. Power king super highway 2
I bought mine when I first bought the truck for 150 per tire there expensive now like 180 to 200 although on e bay you can get them for 180 .
I kept the 16.5" rims I also have 4 16" inch on stand by the tires are cheaper although the power king super highway WLD 89 is a nostalgic tire from when the truck rolled off the line if you tried to buy a 16" from Coker tire like that it would be like 300 per tire the 16.5" are 130 each .
Also my Firestone transforce have 95 percent tread so why get rid of them I keep them for now .
Don't blame ya if you have them use them. I've been looking but no luck so far. Thanks
how is the driving
The ride is Good 👌
Hi did you have any issue with pitman arm being to close to the steering thats in front of it mine is all most touching rubber boot You might build a slip a dollar in there😂
They do get close but never touched the previous owner installed the adjuster sleeve on the outside as well and the adjuster still went through the radius arm .
You swapped yours out to the 69 7/8 king pin style?.
@@TheThirdWheel618 the same ones you have for the dual piston calipers with 7/8 king pin
@TheThirdWheel618 I put adjusters on inside that's how ford diagram shows it
@TheThirdWheel618 I wish I could send you a picture not sure what to do