Thank you! This video and test was exactly what I needed to make the $ decision to replace my "blocked" Norcold NA10LX cooling unit that I found with choked ventilation. I also went with CoolFunRV you recommended. They work core exchanges and were the least expensive option I could find in the US. I did have a problem with the initial start of the CoolFunRV unit not working at all and freezing up on the return lines to the tank. Note that CoolFunRV does not reply to emails (at all), but after a phone call and quick call back from their technician Sal, I learned that the unit was "back cooling" due to the unit not settling completely after shipment. After a little shaking and a restart, the fridge was down to 35°F in about 6 hours. Yay! Thank You again for this great channel.
Not really, it doesn't really matter what the outside looks like. The inside is probably still working just fine. So no, I would not worry about the rust on the outside of the cooling unit.
I have the Dometic 2454 The refrigerator does not get very cold The freezer works excellent, I have to crack the freezer door which is inside the fridge to help cool the fridge. The thermistor checked out okay and have adjusted it up and down the fin with no change. Had an RV tech check all the electrical everything checked fine.. is this a case if I need to pull it out and turn it upside down and reinstall..? Also it doesn't matter whether I have it on 12 volt, 110, gas..
Darren, thanks for the video it was very helpful. Helping a friend with a suburban fridge, 1201. The freezer is 15deg and the fridge is 40 degrees , down from 50 degrees after improving the chimney. Thought the thermistor measured low in ohms so replaced. My question is " is it reasonable to expect 34 degrees in triple digit heat? Or what is optimum performance for this unit? Thanks John Stockamp, Patron.
I have a Norcold 811. That stopped working when we went away for a weekend and I turn off the power supply. When we came back it was not cooling the refrigerator or freezer. I detach the thermostat and nothing changed. Any ideas?
Mine isn’t cooling well and incapable of freezing. 48 is the best I can get right now. Based on what’s in this video I’m betting it’s a blockage but I’ll look into more later. I haven’t seen or smelt anything and the airflow is set up correctly.
Question, my dometic refrigerator is about 26 yrs old, freezer is building ice on back wall of freezer, at the same time, when outside temps go over 75°,, the refrigerator not the freezer, struggles, but when temps are cooler then 75° ,, I have 34-36 in ice box, that's the lower box for the milk. What do you think might be going on..?? Thankyou for some input. I am thinking, I should replace the the whole unit do to it's age ??
6 หลายเดือนก่อน
Hi Darren, I have a relatively new 12v fridge ( jan '24...dometic dmc4101). Came back from vacation about a week ago freezer fine, fridge about between 60 and 70 degrees! Other than warranty work would you have any ideas? Thanks David
Get a Residential Refrigerator that's Self Defrosting and more Reliable especially if your Full time....:) It's Cheaper and more Efficient.... Propane appliances these days are old Technology with the introduction of Stand alone Power Stations.:) RV Appliances don't last and are extremely Expensive to replace every 5 yrs maybe.... 👀
Not likely, a blockage is a blockage in the cooling unit regardless of the Heat source. If it's not working on electric, you can follow the 120v AC trail. Verify you have AC power feeding the control board, then through the glass fuse on the control board. When the refrigerator is calling for the boiler to turn on with AC, you should have 120 volts on the two pins that the heating element connects to. You will need to disconnect the heating element to get a voltage reading on those two pins. Then you can check the Ohm's value of the heating element (at ambient temperature) and compare your value to the service manual. On our website under the resources tab we have many service manuals for refrigerators.
Great info but I’m diagnosing a different issue. Freezer cold fridge not so. And the boiler and absorber are the same temperature. But after a little bit they are both cool like it turned off
Thank you! This video and test was exactly what I needed to make the $ decision to replace my "blocked" Norcold NA10LX cooling unit that I found with choked ventilation. I also went with CoolFunRV you recommended. They work core exchanges and were the least expensive option I could find in the US.
I did have a problem with the initial start of the CoolFunRV unit not working at all and freezing up on the return lines to the tank. Note that CoolFunRV does not reply to emails (at all), but after a phone call and quick call back from their technician Sal, I learned that the unit was "back cooling" due to the unit not settling completely after shipment. After a little shaking and a restart, the fridge was down to 35°F in about 6 hours. Yay! Thank You again for this great channel.
You are amazing. I learn so much for you. Thank you for your videos.
Excellent video
Thanks
Great video. I'm having issues with my Norcold 663 in a 1995 Callista. This was very helpful!
Love this guy!
Hello again from South Texas Darren great video. Do you suggest if cooling coils are rusted out to remove rust and repaint them?
Not really, it doesn't really matter what the outside looks like. The inside is probably still working just fine. So no, I would not worry about the rust on the outside of the cooling unit.
I have the Dometic 2454 The refrigerator does not get very cold The freezer works excellent, I have to crack the freezer door which is inside the fridge to help cool the fridge. The thermistor checked out okay and have adjusted it up and down the fin with no change. Had an RV tech check all the electrical everything checked fine.. is this a case if I need to pull it out and turn it upside down and reinstall..? Also it doesn't matter whether I have it on 12 volt, 110, gas..
Darren, thanks for the video it was very helpful. Helping a friend with a suburban fridge, 1201. The freezer is 15deg and the fridge is 40 degrees , down from 50 degrees after improving the chimney. Thought the thermistor measured low in ohms so replaced. My question is " is it reasonable to expect 34 degrees in triple digit heat? Or what is optimum performance for this unit? Thanks John Stockamp, Patron.
I have a Norcold 811. That stopped working when we went away for a weekend and I turn off the power supply. When we came back it was not cooling the refrigerator or freezer. I detach the thermostat and nothing changed. Any ideas?
I just bought a 98 Sportsmaster, the freezer works perfect but the fridge portion doesn't cool. Any tips? I'm new to the RV life and learning as I go.
Hi, Did you fix the bottom part ?? I have the same problem
I assume that’s after the thermister is ruled out ?
Just curious but on a dometic rm2351 any idea what it should cost to replace the cooling portion or the whole unit?
Mine isn’t cooling well and incapable of freezing. 48 is the best I can get right now. Based on what’s in this video I’m betting it’s a blockage but I’ll look into more later. I haven’t seen or smelt anything and the airflow is set up correctly.
Hi Darren. I hope you are doing well. Been crazy here.
We've had a nice comfortable pace throughout the winter. Keeping folks in the hopper. Not as busy as previous years though...
Question, my dometic refrigerator is about 26 yrs old, freezer is building ice on back wall of freezer, at the same time, when outside temps go over 75°,, the refrigerator not the freezer, struggles, but when temps are cooler then 75° ,, I have 34-36 in ice box, that's the lower box for the milk.
What do you think might be going on..??
Thankyou for some input.
I am thinking, I should replace the the whole unit do to it's age ??
Hi Darren, I have a relatively new 12v fridge ( jan '24...dometic dmc4101). Came back from vacation about a week ago freezer fine, fridge about between 60 and 70 degrees! Other than warranty work would you have any ideas?
Thanks David
my boiler is hot and the absorber is cold plus yellow sodium chromate under the boiler, does it mean leak and blockage at same time?
My RV wasnt leveled. On driveway. Had to bring it down for it to work.
👍👍
Get a Residential Refrigerator that's Self Defrosting and more Reliable especially if your Full time....:) It's Cheaper and more Efficient.... Propane appliances these days are old Technology with the introduction of Stand alone Power Stations.:) RV Appliances don't last and are extremely Expensive to replace every 5 yrs maybe.... 👀
Could I have a blockage if it works on propane but not on electric?
Not likely, a blockage is a blockage in the cooling unit regardless of the Heat source.
If it's not working on electric, you can follow the 120v AC trail. Verify you have AC power feeding the control board, then through the glass fuse on the control board. When the refrigerator is calling for the boiler to turn on with AC, you should have 120 volts on the two pins that the heating element connects to. You will need to disconnect the heating element to get a voltage reading on those two pins. Then you can check the Ohm's value of the heating element (at ambient temperature) and compare your value to the service manual. On our website under the resources tab we have many service manuals for refrigerators.
None of this applies to 12v residential refrigerators and why they aren't cooling.
Great info but I’m diagnosing a different issue. Freezer cold fridge not so. And the boiler and absorber are the same temperature. But after a little bit they are both cool like it turned off
Is that is typically an indication of improper ventilation of the back chimney.