I have bingeing on your video this afternoon... Love how you get old and young, old and young again..... Walnut for blast gates... A little extravagant!!
Nice gates. Nice video. Thanks. This may be an OK place to suggest that for systems using flimsy tin duct a plywood collar mid-span on 5' joints will arrest the tendency of the duct to go egg-shaped which is what it does during the last millisecond before it collapses. Any cruddy salvaged sheet stock will work and the fit needn't be very precise.
I love everything about your shop and I’m incorporating some of your dust collection tips in my shop right now. Do you have an Instagram or any other place where you post your work?
I recently saw a guy use the cheap black plastic blast gates and cut the end off to allow the dust to push out and he did the same foil tape trick. What are your thoughts on that? I’m about to move to a new shop and I’m not going to waste my time building my own blast gates to save a few bucks. I may just buy the aluminum blast gates instead of modifying the black plastic ones.
This probably comes too late, but to answer your question, in my experience cutting off the back of the plastic does help keep them clean, however the plastic ones are leaky when closed anyway and that makes it worse. If you tape them up tight there is nowhere for the dust to go (and you have to periodically remove the tape to clean them out then re-tape), and if you leave a flap like that other video suggests you lose cfm. If you are buying my recommendation is purchase the self-cleaning type where the slide passes through the other end.
@@scottstarck293 Thanks for the reply Scott, you're right too late lol I went with the aluminum ones. I installed limit switches so when I open a blast gate, the dust collector turns on. Works great.
Oh sorry I thought this was my other video. I used the long ranger micro switch system. It’s super easy, but I think they only make it for 220 volt dust collector systems.
I’ve done the research and yes, unfortunately they’ve stopped making the 110V version of the long ranger. I’ve made my own that can handle 110v and 20amps and it’s possibly deserving of its own video. 🤔
I admit to being obtuse on this, but how does the foil reduce clogging? It seems to me that the collector would keep it sucked onto the body of the gate... can you explain?
I did not want huge pipes. Thought I could get away with 4” and it has been okay for my shop so far because it is small and I only have one blast gait open at a time.
If you close the back you get debris built up in the slots on the side which gets pushed to the back when you close it and binds it up and prevents it from closing completely. Requires you to take it down and pick out all that junk.
I have bingeing on your video this afternoon... Love how you get old and young, old and young again.....
Walnut for blast gates... A little extravagant!!
Awesome video. Love the idea of using the foil to keep it from clogging. I saved it so I can quickly find it when I need to review it.
Nice gates. Nice video. Thanks. This may be an OK place to suggest that for systems using flimsy tin duct a plywood collar mid-span on 5' joints will arrest the tendency of the duct to go egg-shaped which is what it does during the last millisecond before it collapses. Any cruddy salvaged sheet stock will work and the fit needn't be very precise.
Thank You for your video. I’m in the process of setting up a two stage Dust Collection system similar to yours in my small shop.
You will love it when your done. I just moved my tools around and added another dust port. Still loving it!
Awesome ! Love it. Going to have to make some of these
Love this! May have to try in 2.5” for now.
Thanks for sharing your build!
great job father keep it up
I love everything about your shop and I’m incorporating some of your dust collection tips in my shop right now. Do you have an Instagram or any other place where you post your work?
Thanks for the super nice comment and glad it helped you. My only social media is TH-cam so no Instagram or other stuff.
I recently saw a guy use the cheap black plastic blast gates and cut the end off to allow the dust to push out and he did the same foil tape trick. What are your thoughts on that? I’m about to move to a new shop and I’m not going to waste my time building my own blast gates to save a few bucks. I may just buy the aluminum blast gates instead of modifying the black plastic ones.
This probably comes too late, but to answer your question, in my experience cutting off the back of the plastic does help keep them clean, however the plastic ones are leaky when closed anyway and that makes it worse. If you tape them up tight there is nowhere for the dust to go (and you have to periodically remove the tape to clean them out then re-tape), and if you leave a flap like that other video suggests you lose cfm.
If you are buying my recommendation is purchase the self-cleaning type where the slide passes through the other end.
@@scottstarck293 Thanks for the reply Scott, you're right too late lol I went with the aluminum ones. I installed limit switches so when I open a blast gate, the dust collector turns on. Works great.
@@kkeim90 The black ones are junk. I fought them for years . What is a limit switch ? I have a big Jet that's 110.
Great design, now you have to do a video on hooking up your microswitches
Thanks. No I don’t have a video you asked about, but it’s pretty easy and self explanatory with purchasing the system I referred to in the video.
Oh sorry I thought this was my other video. I used the long ranger micro switch system. It’s super easy, but I think they only make it for 220 volt dust collector systems.
I’ve done the research and yes, unfortunately they’ve stopped making the 110V version of the long ranger. I’ve made my own that can handle 110v and 20amps and it’s possibly deserving of its own video. 🤔
I admit to being obtuse on this, but how does the foil reduce clogging? It seems to me that the collector would keep it sucked onto the body of the gate... can you explain?
If any debris gets in the groove for the sliding gate it will get pushed out the back.
@@Selandry1 of COURSE! Can you tell I’m still using a portable setup and flex pipe?!?
Can you tell me again where to bet that pipe for your drill press that bends. Its blue.
Called Loc line and I got it off Amazon.
@@Selandry1 thank you. I use my ice pick all the time!
Just open the plastic blast gate and drill a 1/4inch hole in the back corner of the slide slot. It will push the dust out these holes. 1 minute fix.😅
Could you please tell my why did you choosen main pipe as 4" not 6" pvc pipe system?
Thank you very much from Thailand.
I did not want huge pipes. Thought I could get away with 4” and it has been okay for my shop so far because it is small and I only have one blast gait open at a time.
@@Selandry1Thank you very much for your answer. You design in every details in workshop is great. Keep on going.
Did the color of your waste pipe change in the background?
Yes they did. Good eye! I used wood grain contact paper on all the verticals to match my shop.
@@Selandry1 First thing I noticed.. Clean look.
What is the purpose of the foil flap? Would the blast gate not work just as well without the foil flap?
If you close the back you get debris built up in the slots on the side which gets pushed to the back when you close it and binds it up and prevents it from closing completely. Requires you to take it down and pick out all that junk.
@@Selandry1 I understand that, but the foil flap does not appear to seal. Or does it seal when the blast gate is open?
Yes it seals shut due to the negative pressure of the airflow when the blast gate is open.
@@Selandry1 Thanks.
Good job son