Hi. I think you’re just the guy who might be able to help me. I have a Quincy 54 compressor. Two stage 60 gallon and I’m inserting an aftercooler between compressor and tank. I will describe the plumbing as it came from the factory. From compressor outlet there is a 1/2” copper tube that goes down to the tank. Just before the tank is a brass fitting that has a PRV on one side and a 1/4” copper tube on the other. The copper tube comes out and connects to the pressure sensor. I will use a high pressure/temperature flexible hose to go from compressor to cooler. So I need to remove the 1/4” copper tube and replace it with a 1/4” flexible line that connects the pressure sensor and the large flexible hose at the compressor outlet. I think that will take care of my unloader valve. But what about the PRV at the tank entrance? It can’t be for the tank because that has a check valve. So it must be for the plumbing between compressor and tank. Does this mean I need to move it to my 1/4” line between pressure sensor and compressor outlet? Sorry for all the words. Hard to describe without photos. But I think that PRV needs to be relocated so it’s still attached to the pressure sensor line. Thanks for your attention. I liked your quick and to the point video. Paul
Great video, I have a "brand new", old Craftsman 15362 Air Compressor/ Direct Oil Lubricated - Cast Iron Cylinder, [135 PSI max., 3.7 SCFM @ 40 psi, 2.4 SCFM @ 90 psi, 1.0 HP 3 Gallons]; right out the box malfunction during the initial 'Start up" mild run, break-in procedure. Oil started leaking from the system and it wouldn't build pressure. I checked the fluid bulb, still contained fluid, tightened the bolts down, tried it the pump again, ...."No joy" then turned it off and threw in the back of the garage for ..... LATER. What should I do to fix/ repair for use? Thanks in advance
Is there a reason that the relief value can't replace the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Would be nice to have it blow out water at the same time I test it
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong how to fix?
What does it mean if i pull the PRV and the air keeps bleeding on its own(without me pulling the PRV) but stops at about 70psi..? I have a husky 33 gallon air compressor and its my first time using it, please help
It depends on what you mean by blow out. If the piston extends to vent air, normally, once the overpressure is gone, you can simply push the piston back in.
There's a difference between a relief valve, and a "safety" relief valve: www.cdivalve.com/products/pneumatic-valves/any/asme-code-safety-valves/any/any
Years later thanks for the video
Thank you very much for this video, it answered some questions I had perfectly.
Hi. I think you’re just the guy who might be able to help me.
I have a Quincy 54 compressor. Two stage 60 gallon and I’m inserting an aftercooler between compressor and tank. I will describe the plumbing as it came from the factory.
From compressor outlet there is a 1/2” copper tube that goes down to the tank. Just before the tank is a brass fitting that has a PRV on one side and a 1/4” copper tube on the other. The copper tube comes out and connects to the pressure sensor.
I will use a high pressure/temperature flexible hose to go from compressor to cooler. So I need to remove the 1/4” copper tube and replace it with a 1/4” flexible line that connects the pressure sensor and the large flexible hose at the compressor outlet. I think that will take care of my unloader valve.
But what about the PRV at the tank entrance? It can’t be for the tank because that has a check valve. So it must be for the plumbing between compressor and tank.
Does this mean I need to move it to my 1/4” line between pressure sensor and compressor outlet?
Sorry for all the words. Hard to describe without photos. But I think that PRV needs to be relocated so it’s still attached to the pressure sensor line.
Thanks for your attention. I liked your quick and to the point video.
Paul
Thank you♥️
Thanks for share your videos !!
Greetings from Brazil!
Great video, I have a "brand new", old Craftsman 15362 Air Compressor/ Direct Oil Lubricated - Cast Iron Cylinder, [135 PSI max., 3.7 SCFM @ 40 psi, 2.4 SCFM @ 90 psi, 1.0 HP 3 Gallons]; right out the box malfunction during the initial 'Start up" mild run, break-in procedure. Oil started leaking from the system and it wouldn't build pressure. I checked the fluid bulb, still contained fluid, tightened the bolts down, tried it the pump again, ...."No joy" then turned it off and threw in the back of the garage for ..... LATER. What should I do to fix/ repair for use? Thanks in advance
Would this cause the oil cap to pop ?
What is the purpose of the unloader valve
Is there a reason that the relief value can't replace the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. Would be nice to have it blow out water at the same time I test it
it will instantly become clogged with rust and other tank sediment junk. so nope. you can't. bad idea.
So its normal for the blow off valve to allways realese i mean when it gets to certain psi its supposed to allways blow out
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@@AboutAirCompressors make me
My compressor starts working and builds pressure up to 150psi but sometimes during work it will not start and won't keep tank charged. Sometimes it turns on only for a few seconds then goes quiet. Sometimes I hears something that it wants to start like air going somewhere through the pipe for about 2 second and then quiets and stays like that. Fails to keep up pressure in tank when I use it. Pressure goes low as 50psi but compressor doesn't start. Then I had to open drain valve to release remaining air pressure in the tank. Disconnect it from AC power for few minutes and it starts working again build up to 150psi again. I don't hear any air leaks. What could be wrong how to fix?
0:40 is where any actual information begins
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No it's not
Can you oil it up with wd40 ? Mine leaks from the valve but if I push in a tad by hand the leak stops
What does it mean if i pull the PRV and the air keeps bleeding on its own(without me pulling the PRV) but stops at about 70psi..? I have a husky 33 gallon air compressor and its my first time using it, please help
Were you able to figure out the problem with your compressor? I am having the same issue myself
if the piston blows out will it need to be replaced?
It depends on what you mean by blow out. If the piston extends to vent air, normally, once the overpressure is gone, you can simply push the piston back in.
There's a difference between a relief valve, and a "safety" relief valve: www.cdivalve.com/products/pneumatic-valves/any/asme-code-safety-valves/any/any
How to service?
My compressor builds up to 50 psi but won’t go higher??
Thanks!
This is not the wright video
This may or may not be a helpful video you can't hear a damn thing he says