Here's a helpful tip when I'm sorting thru sites like Amazon at similar items looking for the item of my needs I always check the Q&A section that may ask and answer the spec I'm looking for and I also check out the reviews as people will state " it fit X machine perfectly " etc or not fit X machine etc..the Q&A and review sections really help sorting thru good and bad, correct and incorrect items or purpose etc.
I kept telling my computer screen that you should just drill those holes out, nice and quick. Glad you didn't listen to me, files were a much better solution and now I have a good file recommendation in my back pocket!
Thank you for this video I just finished installing the speed handle on my PM935 every step of the ways covered from purchase to fitting locking pins Thank you again
Today I learned I was very lucky when I bought my BP speed handle. It didn't occur to me when the ad said bridgeport style mill that there would be variations.
I love this content, nobody wants to post useful info anymore, it’s all about the algorithm and other bs. This shows with a little hand work, you got a fix👍and also how to find stuff. Awesome, as always. 😎
I definitely like the look of this handle over the stock handle or the "steering wheel". Nice job showing how to work through the ill fitting parts. My first thought was to get it setup on the CNC and bore out the holes into the correct location, but I imagine the filing was much faster.
When I got my BP copy 30 years ago I wanted a speed handle right away, and didn't want to wait the week or so it would take to order one (before Amazon and 2-day shipping). So I set about making one. I finished it three weeks later. No regrets, I like my custom shop-built handle more than the commercial ones anyway.
Thanks for all the info you give out. Sure enough it is easy for those people who have big budgets for tooling to find good stuff, but for us at home it is hard to find affordable quality tools. Loved the Lipton joke. Thanks again.
Wow how do you fixed this thing so fast, and searched for the part so fast... ops sorry I was watching 2 times faster! But you still the king... Hail to the king kkkkk
I have a handle like that I saved it from a mill I bought it for leaving the original . I liked it just for all the reasons you said. I see all these steering wheel on mills but still at times you need leverage .
Nice upgrade, you'll love it. That was one of the first mods I made to my PM935TV back in 2014 when I purchased mine. I couldn't locate the correct bore size for mine however and had to slightly bore the ID of the handle to fit over the hub adapter. Works great and I wouldn't have another milling machine without one. Another item I addressed on mine almost immediately was the quill lock was not fit correctly. I ended up purchasing a Bridgeport quill lock and then had to slightly "message" the brass for proper grip but it was another very worthwhile upgrade. Mike
The quill lock seems pretty good on this one, but I may pop it out and have a look. The one in the PM-940 wasn't great, and I actually bought a piece of brass to make a new one, but ended up swapping out the mill.
Had the same problem when I ordered that handle. Did the same fix as you. Oh if you can find old new stock of Grobet files do it, their the best. I use files everyday in my work for 40 yrs.
I have the same mill and ordered one of these after watching your video. The one I received was slightly different, with what look like rivets, while yours has Allen screws. The only other difference was thankfully a good one, that *this* handle on *my* mill fit fine, with no locked out positions due to poor machining of the OEM hub. The good fit is probably due more to luck rather than good tolerances.
Nice little upgrade for it, and not too expensive. It was also pretty easy to get everything to fit well if all you had to do was file some of the holes. As for the files, I think it was Joe Pie who said it's always good to have one expensive file set for precision work, but you'll want a bunch of the cheap files simply because files get worn out. As well sometimes you'll want to grind an edge flat for various reasons.
Nice handle and great job of fitting it. I had no idea those were available. I think I will order some of those files. I know Tom Lipton would approve of them.
Very nice and informative. It might be better in the long run to remake that keyed part to tighter specs (so the holes line up) to go with those ball end keeper screws….but for all intents and purposes, it appears to work fine.
love that - i just bought something cool and new... let's take it apart! let's put it back together, return it to amazon, fire up fusion360 and make one ourselves.
Great video, and further down the rabbit hole you've sent me! Mill not even in the shop yet, and I've ordered the one you suggested above from Amazon :)
I use 1:5 planetary reduction and an 4 inch steeringweel with a rotating handle, like on x y axis mounted. With this, you dont have stop wenn you inside the boring hole and you dont come near the workpiece if its bigger.
@@Clough42 Well, big drills are better, you can get more Pressure, but feeling ist lower but sensitive enough. small drills 1/4 inch and lower, you feel nothing , even in aluminium, you had to be carefull with stucking chips. Some drills dont survive, you are slow to back off, even in deep holes. In Steel is better as the original three arm wheel.
I was thinking why not remove one pin. But after seeing how little work it required... yea, that's the way. BTW, Grobert files are very nice too. I have a few sets of them.
@@Clough42 The spokes unscrew and the whole thing detaches easily enough, but the spokes are relatively short. How much leverage should we actually need, anyway, unless it doubles as an arbor press!
I was interested in one of the steering wheel ones, but it would hit where my DRO arm is installed (plus a steering wheel is stupidly expensive for what it is). This was helpful, right up to the point where you sold out all of the supply LOL. Your link now is unavailable.
I'm relatively new to your channel and have been watching old videos to catch up. The videos suddenly switch from your PM940 to PM935 without explanation. Is there a video I missed?
I would love to have one of those on my PM 833-T mill. I have already had clearance problems with the handles and my vice. It is a 3 way fixed handle. I just heard you say your mill is a P M so i may do some research and see if i can find one for mine. How expensive was the handle? Thanks for sharing with us.
People with a high attention to detail are cursed with having to slightly modify almost everything to make it work the way the designer intended (and the bean counters ruined). My wife is constantly ribbing me that I have to immediately fix what I unbox. 👍👍😎👍👍
Oh, I totally get that. I notice it most when someone asks me what kind of 3D printer or CNC mill I have. Uhh...I know what it was when I bought it, but kind of a lot's happened since then. :)
Hey i never even knew these sorts of handles existed! I was hoping project to build one of them and a video at least 45 minutes long to which I could finally calmly fall asleep (it's 3:40am send help). But I am not surprised you went with the buy option. I do have a offtopic question to more cad directed.. I know you work in fusion and I have a question. How do I make a 90° V shaped groove into a cilinder. My part is supposed to be a replacement flywheel for a reel to reel tape player. The original part was cast zinc aluminium alloy which after 30 or so years cracked bent and fell apart in too many machines. I want to make it out of good old cast iron. But regardless. I can't find a way to put any grooves onto a cilindrical face in Fusion360. And even worse I have no idea how to even measure the depth of the Vgroove..and it's critical since in the v groove you have the drive belt. if your Vgroove is not to size well your playing the tape too fast or too slow.. I hope you or someone here can help me to create this V groove into the cad. Also about measuring I would assume one way of doing so is with gauge pins just like you would with "thread wire". Just not sure how. Thanks a lot!
If I understand correctly, I would sketch them on the end of the cylinder and extrude down the length of the cylinder to cut them. Use a circular pattern in the sketch to evenly space them. For measuring, if there are an even number of groves, measuring over pins will work. You can even draw the pins in the sketch to match measurements with dimensions. If you want to email me a sketch or a photo, I have been thinking about doing some more fusion tutorials.
@@Clough42 wohoo thank you. All thought you didn't quite understand what I am trying to do. The groove is essentially a belt pulley driven by the main distributor pulley (the whole thing rotates. Hey thanks for the opportunity I'll mail you as soon as I can then. In a few hours. (im UTC+3 And it's 16:11 at the time of posting this) Much appreciated thanks.
@@adam207321 Ahh...so a flywheel with a normal v-belt groove in it? I think I'm understanding. I would draw the cross-section of the groove and rotate it around the axis of the pulley to cut. You can use pins to measure. I'm actually looking for a video topic I can film in the house, where it's cool. :)
I’m looking to buy a mill and was wondering what happened to your PM-940 and why you upgraded to the PM-935? Any response/information will be greatly appreciated as I respect your opinions about equipment and why you choose what you get.
I Looked for an obvious suggestion for the file issue, but did not see it in the comments. What about using a chainsaw file which us good for hard sawchain teeth and is parallel as opposed to the tapered form of the needle files you used>
I don't know if this is a stupid way of doing it but I think I would of filled the holes that are in the wrong place with weld and then drilled the holes in the right place. If this is stupid please reply and explain why.
I was thinking (I know, no good can come of that) What about building your own speed handle? Make it out of an adapter that would allow you to use a a 3/8" ratchet. the biggest advantage would be finer control (I believe the lever could ratchet every 30 degrees) of the lever position and (I think) easier control of changing up/down of the lever. Disadvantage being holding quill position with the handle i.e. drilling operations. What do you think?
The ratchet would need to latch both ways, because often you have to push the quill up, too. If it's finely tuned and running well, it's pretty neutral.
i have used worn out speed handles, nothing is more annoying then when you go to rotate the handle it flies off. upgrade that set screw retention method
Oooor, you could just remove one of the pins from the handle. That way you don't have to worry about alignment between the 2 pins being perfect. One pin im sure would be just fine to turn the handle.
I've got to ask, did you really pay ~$170 for those needle files? I understand paying for quality, but this seems a bit over the top for home shop use.
1in22thou = 2.6cm. 1in415thou = 3.6cm, 709thou=1.8cm. Why not measure using the units that were used to make the thing. If you did that, you'd get the bonus of easy sanity check of the measurements. Engineers are lazy, prefer round numbers that feel familiar. An engineer working in imperial would more likely use 1-1/4in (1.25) than 1.22, but working in metric, 26mm is a nice, common number.
But the table on the listing he bought the handle from had imperial units so he would have had to convert them anyway. Now if he had made his own handle ther would be logic to using metric units for his east Asian mill.
Are they not working for you? The auto-generated English captions are working for me, and I'm able to turn on translation to other languages, including Russian.
@@barrygerbracht5077 There are a couple of Chevalier mills at my workplace, and everyone there (but me) pronounces it Terry's way... 'cause they're 'Murican and don't know from French.
@@randyshoquist7726 I grew up in CN and I know it's a french word but the point is that the Taiwanese that own the company pronounce it the way I originally said in the first message on this thread. It's up to the individual it's a free country. From 30 years of selling these things I know what the factory calls them.
@@terrymoorecnc2500 You say har-dinj and I say har-ding You say FAH-nuk and I say fa-NOOK har-dinj/har-ding FAH-nuk/fa-NOOK Let's call the whole thing off.
"Quill speed handle" sure sounds like something else entirely. Something that doesn't make the slightest bit of sense. It took me a while to figure it out.
"Lipton mill", that took me a second. I hope Tom sees this.
I googled it before he showed the file set and was wondering what tea had to do with anything
Haha, me too.
I knew he was poking at Tom Lipton... he's a file fanatic.
@@rennkafer13 good for you
@@ElectronicDrug it was indeed.
Again you worked a practical application fix to a problem. EXCELLENT problem solving. A prime example of " if you want it YOUR way, Do it yourself !"
Here's a helpful tip when I'm sorting thru sites like Amazon at similar items looking for the item of my needs I always check the Q&A section that may ask and answer the spec I'm looking for and I also check out the reviews as people will state " it fit X machine perfectly " etc or not fit X machine etc..the Q&A and review sections really help sorting thru good and bad, correct and incorrect items or purpose etc.
Fnding the correct term to search for. It’s the bane of my life. 🥺
IMO it's even holder with software, which often has unintuitive names
Honestly my career is mostly centered around conjuring up google searches. 🤓
@@caseytailfly Let me guess, programmer?
@@vincentguttmann2231 I'm thinking magician. :-)
One of my favorite past times is putting random obscure things into Google and seeing how accurate the results are.
I kept telling my computer screen that you should just drill those holes out, nice and quick. Glad you didn't listen to me, files were a much better solution and now I have a good file recommendation in my back pocket!
Thanks, I forgot we had one at my last job, boy I miss it. Just ordered one. Thanks…
Lipton mill….love it.
Thank you for this video I just finished installing the speed handle on my PM935 every step of the ways covered from purchase to fitting locking pins Thank you again
Simple solution that worked out nicely!
Today I learned I was very lucky when I bought my BP speed handle. It didn't occur to me when the ad said bridgeport style mill that there would be variations.
Sounds like an item I can make for my old Bridgeport. Thanks for the videos.
I love this content, nobody wants to post useful info anymore, it’s all about the algorithm and other bs. This shows with a little hand work, you got a fix👍and also how to find stuff. Awesome, as always. 😎
You can feel (and hear) immediately how well a file is cutting.
‘Lipton Mill’ - I like it. Took a minute, but I like it.
I definitely like the look of this handle over the stock handle or the "steering wheel". Nice job showing how to work through the ill fitting parts. My first thought was to get it setup on the CNC and bore out the holes into the correct location, but I imagine the filing was much faster.
When I got my BP copy 30 years ago I wanted a speed handle right away, and didn't want to wait the week or so it would take to order one (before Amazon and 2-day shipping). So I set about making one. I finished it three weeks later. No regrets, I like my custom shop-built handle more than the commercial ones anyway.
I thought about it.
Thanks for all the info you give out. Sure enough it is easy for those people who have big budgets for tooling to find good stuff, but for us at home it is hard to find affordable quality tools. Loved the Lipton joke.
Thanks again.
Very nice attention to detail.
James, you really are a patient teacher. Thank you so much for making these videos. I’ve learned so much.
Sigh.... James you did all the work to look up the handle for my Alliant. Now I gotta go buy one. :D
A nice and easy upgrade in convenience 👍🏼
Thanks! I will have to try this for my PM 835-S.
That was very helpful! Was just thinking of getting one of these for my PM milk.
Wouldn't have ever guessed I would have watched a guy play with his brand new handle for 25 minutes, but here we are. XD
Wow how do you fixed this thing so fast, and searched for the part so fast... ops sorry I was watching 2 times faster! But you still the king... Hail to the king kkkkk
Very nicely done !!
I have a handle like that I saved it from a mill I bought it for leaving the original . I liked it just for all the reasons you said. I see all these steering wheel on mills but still at times you need leverage .
"this one almost worked right out of the box". And here we are, watching a 25min video ^^
Nice upgrade, you'll love it. That was one of the first mods I made to my PM935TV back in 2014 when I purchased mine. I couldn't locate the correct bore size for mine however and had to slightly bore the ID of the handle to fit over the hub adapter. Works great and I wouldn't have another milling machine without one.
Another item I addressed on mine almost immediately was the quill lock was not fit correctly. I ended up purchasing a Bridgeport quill lock and then had to slightly "message" the brass for proper grip but it was another very worthwhile upgrade.
Mike
The quill lock seems pretty good on this one, but I may pop it out and have a look. The one in the PM-940 wasn't great, and I actually bought a piece of brass to make a new one, but ended up swapping out the mill.
Dude! Thanks for posting this video. That is the exact model handle that my alliant needs.
My " Lipton mill" assortment is chain saw files that come in lots of diameters and at the local saw shop if you live in redwood country.
"back it off slightly" -> "tighten it until it cracks, then back a quarter turn" 😉👍
Tighten it until it squeaks, and then give it a little more for good measure. Or until the stud snaps off.
Had the same problem when I ordered that handle. Did the same fix as you. Oh if you can find old new stock of Grobet files do it, their the best. I use files everyday in my work for 40 yrs.
Great features. However, many of your fans would have expected you to make your own ! Greetings from Switzerland, home from fine files 😉
I have the same mill and ordered one of these after watching your video. The one I received was slightly different, with what look like rivets, while yours has Allen screws. The only other difference was thankfully a good one, that *this* handle on *my* mill fit fine, with no locked out positions due to poor machining of the OEM hub. The good fit is probably due more to luck rather than good tolerances.
Nice, now I need another thing I didn't know existed 😁
You Fix It Good Job!!!
Hey James as always awesome job thank you and happy 4th of July GB all
Very nice
Nice little upgrade for it, and not too expensive. It was also pretty easy to get everything to fit well if all you had to do was file some of the holes.
As for the files, I think it was Joe Pie who said it's always good to have one expensive file set for precision work, but you'll want a bunch of the cheap files simply because files get worn out. As well sometimes you'll want to grind an edge flat for various reasons.
Yeah. I have some of both. Cheap ones are good for dragging backwards over a workpiece to troll TH-cam commenters.
Great video.. I just purchased the same one for my new pm-950v and love it! 👍
Thanks for the video.
Nice handle and great job of fitting it. I had no idea those were available. I think I will order some of those files. I know Tom Lipton would approve of them.
"Let's see if I can put it back together without dropping anything." - immediate jump cut 🤔
Go to your local chain saw shop that the pros use and aquire some chain saw files, they come in various diameters, very nice cuts.
very nice, i may have to upgrade my jet's handle!
Good info Clough, I am having the same problem with my mill. I am going to try to find a go kart steering wheel for mine. Thanks again. Bill
Very nice and informative. It might be better in the long run to remake that keyed part to tighter specs (so the holes line up) to go with those ball end keeper screws….but for all intents and purposes, it appears to work fine.
Lipton Mill™ ❤
love that - i just bought something cool and new... let's take it apart!
let's put it back together, return it to amazon, fire up fusion360 and make one ourselves.
Great video, and further down the rabbit hole you've sent me!
Mill not even in the shop yet, and I've ordered the one you suggested above from Amazon :)
Installed mine this weekend, and no issues like you had. Plug n play!
I use 1:5 planetary reduction and an 4 inch steeringweel with a rotating handle, like on x y axis mounted. With this, you dont have stop wenn you inside the boring hole and you dont come near the workpiece if its bigger.
How sensitive is it? Can you still feel what's happening when you're drilling?
@@Clough42 Well, big drills are better, you can get more Pressure, but feeling ist lower but sensitive enough. small drills 1/4 inch and lower, you feel nothing , even in aluminium, you had to be carefull with stucking chips. Some drills dont survive, you are slow to back off, even in deep holes. In Steel is better as the original three arm wheel.
Eager to see you do some manual milling.
Your files looked so familiar. No wonder these needle files are good, they look suspiciously like a set of Vallorbe VLA 2483-2
There is clearly a lot of incest going on between tool manufacturers.
I was thinking why not remove one pin. But after seeing how little work it required... yea, that's the way.
BTW, Grobert files are very nice too. I have a few sets of them.
They came up in my research, but I had a little trouble finding them.
I’ve found American Rotary Tools (ARTCO) of California to be a good Grobet resource.
Speed handle, did winning the 4 jaw challenge get to your head and now everything is about speed?
One wonders why all mills don't come with such a handle. Nice!
Having used a spider type handle for many years, I don't think I could be happy with anything else!
If it stays out of your way, it's a good option.
@@Clough42 The spokes unscrew and the whole thing detaches easily enough, but the spokes are relatively short. How much leverage should we actually need, anyway, unless it doubles as an arbor press!
I was interested in one of the steering wheel ones, but it would hit where my DRO arm is installed (plus a steering wheel is stupidly expensive for what it is). This was helpful, right up to the point where you sold out all of the supply LOL. Your link now is unavailable.
Even when you showed the needle files I was still wondering "What's a Lipton Mill?" Then it hit:)
PS Congrats on the 4 jaw win.
The best jokes are the ones that hit you later in the day. :)
Interesting video. I might try to make one of these do dads from scratch.
Great video! Even though the listings said 1" diameter hub and you measured 1.022", I bet they would have worked. The hubs are probably oversized.
The files standard is Vallorbe, a Swiss brand.
Nice video, as always! How about using a nylon-tipped set screw to secure the handle to the collar?
It needs to turn freely. I suspect nylon would wear down. I think a ball tip would be best, but what's in there is probably fine.
Why does your theme music in the opening scene always make me think I'm about to watch Ice Cube solve some cop mysteries?
Hahaha
Yeah. The Lipton mill... that took me a while.
The best jokes are the ones that hit your later in the day. :)
I wonder if Quilliam learned to control his temper?
Deep cut. :)
I'm relatively new to your channel and have been watching old videos to catch up. The videos suddenly switch from your PM940 to PM935 without explanation. Is there a video I missed?
I would love to have one of those on my PM 833-T mill. I have already had clearance problems with the handles and my vice. It is a 3 way fixed handle. I just heard you say your mill is a P M so i may do some research and see if i can find one for mine. How expensive was the handle? Thanks for sharing with us.
Links in the description.
People with a high attention to detail are cursed with having to slightly modify almost everything to make it work the way the designer intended (and the bean counters ruined). My wife is constantly ribbing me that I have to immediately fix what I unbox. 👍👍😎👍👍
Seems that most things are sold kit form these days !
Oh, I totally get that. I notice it most when someone asks me what kind of 3D printer or CNC mill I have. Uhh...I know what it was when I bought it, but kind of a lot's happened since then. :)
Blue on black...Kenny Wayne Shepherd band reference?
Happy 4th of July James.
Not on purpose. I had to Google to find out who that is.
Hey i never even knew these sorts of handles existed! I was hoping project to build one of them and a video at least 45 minutes long to which I could finally calmly fall asleep (it's 3:40am send help). But I am not surprised you went with the buy option.
I do have a offtopic question to more cad directed.. I know you work in fusion and I have a question. How do I make a 90° V shaped groove into a cilinder. My part is supposed to be a replacement flywheel for a reel to reel tape player. The original part was cast zinc aluminium alloy which after 30 or so years cracked bent and fell apart in too many machines. I want to make it out of good old cast iron. But regardless. I can't find a way to put any grooves onto a cilindrical face in Fusion360. And even worse I have no idea how to even measure the depth of the Vgroove..and it's critical since in the v groove you have the drive belt. if your Vgroove is not to size well your playing the tape too fast or too slow..
I hope you or someone here can help me to create this V groove into the cad. Also about measuring I would assume one way of doing so is with gauge pins just like you would with "thread wire". Just not sure how. Thanks a lot!
If I understand correctly, I would sketch them on the end of the cylinder and extrude down the length of the cylinder to cut them. Use a circular pattern in the sketch to evenly space them. For measuring, if there are an even number of groves, measuring over pins will work. You can even draw the pins in the sketch to match measurements with dimensions. If you want to email me a sketch or a photo, I have been thinking about doing some more fusion tutorials.
@@Clough42 wohoo thank you. All thought you didn't quite understand what I am trying to do. The groove is essentially a belt pulley driven by the main distributor pulley (the whole thing rotates.
Hey thanks for the opportunity I'll mail you as soon as I can then. In a few hours. (im UTC+3 And it's 16:11 at the time of posting this)
Much appreciated thanks.
@@adam207321 Ahh...so a flywheel with a normal v-belt groove in it? I think I'm understanding. I would draw the cross-section of the groove and rotate it around the axis of the pulley to cut. You can use pins to measure. I'm actually looking for a video topic I can film in the house, where it's cool. :)
Are you still using the 940? If not why did you switch? Thanks
I’m looking to buy a mill and was wondering what happened to your PM-940 and why you upgraded to the PM-935? Any response/information will be greatly appreciated as I respect your opinions about equipment and why you choose what you get.
I Looked for an obvious suggestion for the file issue, but did not see it in the comments. What about using a chainsaw file which us good for hard sawchain teeth and is parallel as opposed to the tapered form of the needle files you used>
I don't know if this is a stupid way of doing it but I think I would of filled the holes that are in the wrong place with weld and then drilled the holes in the right place. If this is stupid please reply and explain why.
Not stupid. Just a lot more work.
Great video as always! How do you like this mill. I am about to order one.
I was thinking (I know, no good can come of that) What about building your own speed handle? Make it out of an adapter that would allow you to use a a 3/8" ratchet. the biggest advantage would be finer control (I believe the lever could ratchet every 30 degrees) of the lever position and (I think) easier control of changing up/down of the lever. Disadvantage being holding quill position with the handle i.e. drilling operations. What do you think?
The ratchet would need to latch both ways, because often you have to push the quill up, too. If it's finely tuned and running well, it's pretty neutral.
Did you get rid of the PM-940?
Could you give a quick review of this 935 mill. I am thinking of buying one
i have used worn out speed handles, nothing is more annoying then when you go to rotate the handle it flies off. upgrade that set screw retention method
Great video as usual!! How do you like your PM 935 I am thinking of purchasing a similar one and would appreciate your feedback, Thanks
Great video, Seems the "P" in PM isn't precision as they claim.
Different PM mill.
Oooor, you could just remove one of the pins from the handle. That way you don't have to worry about alignment between the 2 pins being perfect. One pin im sure would be just fine to turn the handle.
The diameter was off, too. Most of the filing was on the inside.
@@Clough42 ahhh, touche' good sir. Touche'
I've got to ask, did you really pay ~$170 for those needle files? I understand paying for quality, but this seems a bit over the top for home shop use.
"The last handle you'll ever have to buy!"
(because you're going to fix it yourself)
1in22thou = 2.6cm. 1in415thou = 3.6cm, 709thou=1.8cm. Why not measure using the units that were used to make the thing. If you did that, you'd get the bonus of easy sanity check of the measurements. Engineers are lazy, prefer round numbers that feel familiar. An engineer working in imperial would more likely use 1-1/4in (1.25) than 1.22, but working in metric, 26mm is a nice, common number.
But the table on the listing he bought the handle from had imperial units so he would have had to convert them anyway. Now if he had made his own handle ther would be logic to using metric units for his east Asian mill.
Except that the lathe I would use to make the hub has imperial dials and the DRO is still sitting in a box in my living room. :)
@@Clough42 that is a very good reason!
Like Pierre says: "making Liptonite"
James, please turn on the subtitles.
Are they not working for you? The auto-generated English captions are working for me, and I'm able to turn on translation to other languages, including Russian.
@@Clough42 Oh, now it works!
How about "Making a Quill Speed Handle"?
That would be a fun project. I was actually expecting them to be more complicated than they are.
Yea but *can* Quilliam learn to control his temper tho.
couldn't you have just removed one of the pins?
Maybe. I think the diameter was off as well. Most of the filing was on the inside edge of the holes.
Chev a Leer is the correct pronunciation.
James pronunciation was correct. It is a french word for Knight or Horseman.
@@barrygerbracht5077 There are a couple of Chevalier mills at my workplace, and everyone there (but me) pronounces it Terry's way... 'cause they're 'Murican and don't know from French.
@@randyshoquist7726 I grew up in CN and I know it's a french word but the point is that the Taiwanese that own the company pronounce it the way I originally said in the first message on this thread. It's up to the individual it's a free country. From 30 years of selling these things I know what the factory calls them.
@@randyshoquist7726 I'll think about that while driving in my Chevrolier :-).
@@terrymoorecnc2500
You say har-dinj and I say har-ding
You say FAH-nuk and I say fa-NOOK
har-dinj/har-ding FAH-nuk/fa-NOOK
Let's call the whole thing off.
"Quill speed handle" sure sounds like something else entirely. Something that doesn't make the slightest bit of sense. It took me a while to figure it out.