The max rods only need tweaking at a machine shop and upgrade the connecting bolts to match the $1,000+ rods. If your an all out drag racer. Go with the best parts you can buy. If your a weekend rider. The max rods will work just fine. And for years.
Maxspeedrods have a good reputation and they don’t seem to break. Almost all these rods forged in China and they are all 4340. As a matter of fact, many Western brands got them from China and machine them in their factories and print their name. This has been like that since ages and nowadays more and more. And nothing wrong with reputable Chinese company’s rods. As a matter of fact, many forged pistons are also done in the same way. Big names buy the forged castings from far east and machine them in house.
Wont aftermarket rods not influence the splash lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use?
So what's the word. I'm going nuts trying to decide between MaxSpeeding and Carrillo, obviously $303 vs $1030 is awesome but i also read that the MaxSpeeding didn't fit in a online response.
@@ShannonFlippo I know it was 3 months ago now but I've got a budy with a turbo'd civic running msr rods and msr yellow blade gt30 its making in excess of 600hp and has been fine for 2 hard driving years.
Funny thing is I have these rods in my seat leon Cupra r pushing 563 bhp and she has done 31000 now and still going strong, all I done was replace the rod bolts and had the rods checked before fitting making sure everything is checked and measured , Oh and I had the bottom end fully balanced ,
Hello EveryDayI Race, so ... the CARILLO Rod is the LIGHTEST of the GROUP (even lighter than STOCK ! ) I would have appreciated a LOOK at the PARTING Line between the ROD & the CAP & an explanation of whether the MaXPEEDING Rod was configured as a FULL-FLOATING wrist pin (normal) especially with the small-end oiling hole & Possibly the CARILLO Road configured as a PRESS FIT wrist pin (for whatever reason) even though it obviously has an Oiling Hole in the small-end CARILLO does NOT omit that BRASS BUSHING in the small-end for NO Reason did you inquire of CARILLO as to their logic ? CURIOUS Thank YOU for the Review - the WEIGHTS alone are quite valuable COOP .........................................
I'm sorry but for the price point of less than$100 each. Compared to $250 each the Carillo rod is just in a different league. But put some time to lighten the Maxpeeding rod and balance it you would have a close comparison to Carillo.
The 2 bolts in the Carrillo are either a CARR or WMC. The Carrillo is far superior. Make no mistake. And weight is everything when spinning high RPM. But many have said and it's completely true. The budget dictates the quality you will use. Carrillo does NOT get its 4340 forgings from China!
I’m still up in the air on my turbocharged 14 bmw hp4 engine rebuild. Before I saw this I was hell bent on Carrillo rods since my stock rod spun a bearing for absolutely no reason at all. I F-in babied the bike since day one. Everything labor wise was completed at the bmw dealership (even tho I’m a licensed certified Suzuki service pro silver technician for 25 years) and could have easily maintained my bike myself. I was a good boy and kept on top of my maintenance appointments with the dealership. Paid stupid money for this bike. Never did any fancy riding. 3 months out of warranty the bottom end let’s go and locks up throwing me off the bike on the highway. Long story short bike was totaled and I bought it back from my insurance company and fixed it up. Now I’m rebuilding the engine with a bulletproof bottom end and ported heads. And I’m still punching numbers to see what turbo will work with my dished pistons. But anyway I’m sorry for the backstory. I didn’t want the bmw hp4 police to come here busting balls about modding a Genuine bmw hp4 comp. don’t worry guys the value is already cut in half because it’s salvage history. So back to the topic. Your video is seriously making me consider using maxspeeding rods now. I honestly always thought the bmw s1000rr rods would last forever because I also have a 14 bmw s1000rr and I’m impressed on how bmw made its rods for that bike by building it as one piece and using a small explosive charge to actually blow the rod cap off the rod itself. I never thought my 27,000 dollar HP4 comp would almost try to kill me for being the only hp4 owner who drove it like an old man. Anyway sorry for the long story. I’m gunna ask my machine shop tomorrow if it’s not too late to consider those rods. Thanks for your video
"Begs the question about WHY did you want such a high performance bike if you were going to ride it so gingerly?? Just for the wow factor and being seen on it? btw "...spun a bearing for absolutely no reason at all" .....Oh you KNOW there WAS a reason! It might have had nothing to do with you but there was a reason ...likely manuacturing defect ....maybe as simple as a worker skipping assembly lube or someone else failing to check clearnace
BTW some ignorant people (not a mechanic like you of course) think they are "babying" an engine by allowing it to warm-up at idle for several minutes ....in fact they are causing wear because at idle you won't have theoil pressure .....better to just let it run for 15 seconds to get some oil moving and then drive slowly until she comes up to temperature in that way providing good oil pressure....this applies to modern engines rather than old time stuff
that's how I warm up engines. Always wondered if I was adding wear and tear by letting it move at all even if I'm babying it till gets up to temp. And bmw guy, bmw rods have recalls from rod bolts backing out. Any number of things could cause a bearing to spin on those
Do the small end of the rods have a caged roller bearing riding on the wrist pins, or do they use oil pressure to act as a bearing? I've never taken a crotch rocket engine apart so I'm just curious. Because I wonder why the one rod has a bronze bushing and the other two are plain steel. I got here thinking it was a small block Chevy rod comparison. I know on some older street bikes like from the 70's and 80's the wrist pins have roller bearings. Same as the two stroke dirt bikes I used to work on.
EVERY DAY I RACE okay thanks. I had a buddy with a Kawasaki Z1 drag bike. I know some people in the high horsepower drag bike scene still think roller bearing cranks are better than plain bearings, even though plain bearings using oil pressure has been pretty standard since the Kawasaki GPz750, and all the early GSXR's but I never actually tore one apart to see the inside. I can't remember if the Z1 has roller bearings on the wrist pins too.
Hard to tell in vid, but the spends rod looked to be shot peened, a plus for extra strength. Then the bushings on the MPR rods are kinda surprising, but I assume (maybe wrong) that maybe they are just covering bases and add that just in case the forging is used to machine a rod that possibily might be used in a engine with a crappy cast crank to prevent friction wear. Like a newer junk ford eco boost China crank, or an old iron block engine from the 60s. People who buy cheaper rods probably tend to not upgrade their crank even if it’s an under build stock motor, hence why they buy a cheap rod. Most modern performance engines should have a forged crank oem though like the evo 4gs Subarus sti EJ257s and Honda turbo engines. Just maybe not your small displacement eco turbo motor that isn’t intended to be a performance factory engine if equipped.
@@hapfp1 My response is for "motorcycle" Con rod bolts. I have used dozens of sets of Carillo motorcycle Con rods and have never even seen a "motorcycle" rod bolt in a Carillo rod that is not CA625+ in the past 20 years. Those bolts used to.be SPS multi-phase units, but are now as noted above. I am aware of the different rod bolt materials for other than motorcycle rods. Don't listen to.me. Call CP-Carillo and ask.
No talk about lighter rod with less rod stretch is what you want, less reciprocating mass means more HP to the rear wheel, less rod stretch means less catastrophic failure. Heavier rods does not equate to strength, but definitely equate to power robbing rotational mass. In this case better go cheap with OEM or Carrillo, anything else is half way, half way closer to catastrophic engine failure, that actually with DYno less than the OEM rods
Yes, your getting a better more tuned in rod. But your paying a lot more because of the name. No different than buying a $50 cotton t-shirt with the name Versace on the tag vs a $10 cotton t-shirt from Wal Mart. Take the Max rods to a shop and how them balance and it and add upgraded connecting bolds. Save yourself at least $600 and still beat the competition.
That's one way to look at it. Another is that it's going to cost more than 700 once one of the cheaper ones let go. You are paying for the r&d, testing and knowledge that Carillo have, whereas maxpeedingrods are an unknown at this point
you shoud also do a rockwell test on all the rods to see how the material compares, alot of rod manifactures ten to use a 35--39 RC FORGING but i am now starting to see more rod manufactures heat treat the forgings t0 39-44 RC. i think you will find the carrillo will be a stronger forging to
@@everydayirace i always think if the max speeding rods can take 400 hp+ in boosted zx10 engines How light by drilling can a person make the max speeding or carillo rods for an NA build to make them as weak as the stock but much lighter What do you think?
carillow charges for what is IN the rod....not thicker or thinner. The metal that the carillo is made from is way, way different than the metal that the Chineese rods use. you pay for what you get.
@@everydayirace Carillo uses a metal blend that they specify for their rods. The Chinese rods may do fine.... and they may not They advertise 4340 Chrome moly steel. Where did that metal come from??. Carillo has won on every race track in the world and they are used for that reason. One thing to remember is that when a rod lets go it will NOT be when you are idling around in the pits. It will be when you are at the end of a straightaway turning over 7,000. When THAT happens often times the only thing that can be salvaged is the water pump. I spent 15 years running short tracks and have seen a LOT of scattered engines. I can say that I have never seen one that had Carillos. I have seen a LOT with stock rods laying on the pavement but no Carillos. You are going to save about 800 bucks installing the Chinese rods. Remember that if and when it breaks.
@@genemartin6962 the trick is that material-wise the Maxpeedingrods are absolutely fine, certainly nothing for high-end racing, but pretty quality material... In terms of measurments though, they have a slight tendency to veer off, hence my teacher always buys two sets of them, completes an in-spec set and sells the rest to someone who will wreck their engine anyway =D As for the failure rates, it's how you build it more than with what
i expected stock rod from a modern high end japanese motorcycle company to look better than a skeleton mock up of a thigh bone! i cant believe my stock suzuki bandit could be having one of those ugly ''bones'' which probably are weaker than the one you showed from the kawasaki!
They are made to be as light as possible, everything on a performance motorycle is. They are all an ass hairs breadth away from self destructing at all times.
you have no way to get better lubrication on the kinetic because I will have a lot of nitro and I am afraid I do not have any issue of destroying the engine
Touching those bolts with your fingers is a bad idea... the oils and acids on your hands will cause bolt material to be compromised...CARR bolts are far superior to ARP....but they are pricey
WOW = Nice CATCH on the COURSE vs FINE thread on the con-rod BOLTS Now I'm curious as to the STOCK Con-Rod BOLTS & NUTS ( I wish the OP would have removed & viewed and weighed them ) !!! --- the VIDEO did NOT focus very long on a side-by-side VIEW of those rod bolts but I finally got to the VIDEO long enough to COMPARE the two THREAD-PITCHES - thank YOU for pointing this out COOP ...................................
maxpeeding is cheap stuff, ok for beginners but please balance. Carillo is pure excellence and you are lucky they cater for a market full of cheapskate ungrateful idiots, their quality is spectacular and only surpassed by very high end f1 componentry
ValladolidArde that was my thoughts exactly, Carrillo makes rods for Yamaha R3 and Kawasaki 300 so seriously i am grateful that a high quality component is even available for such small displacement engines.
All these high end rods are made in China thats why these copies look the same hell ill bet you anything that most of these high end rods are just shipped in re-branded cheap rods. As I said to someone else I got a budy with a turbo civic running msr turbo and rods its making over 600hp and has been fine for a couple years hard driving.
You know nothing. I've been to the Carrillo factory in Irvine. I doubt even think anybody can speak Chinese there. Put your money where your mouth is at big shot. Chinese products are crap.
@@norberthofer5830 this was a year ago by the way my mates civic is still going strong also so is my 400hp mk4 golf 1.8t running msr rods keep your overpriced carillo rods
Maxspeed rod might be better for boost due to being beefier, but light weight is always better as long as it's strong enough for the loads. Heavy rods do not give more torque, just more stress on the crank and more friction.
What a totally immersive , in depth technical analysis that was . . . . . . .
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
The max rods only need tweaking at a machine shop and upgrade the connecting bolts to match the $1,000+ rods. If your an all out drag racer. Go with the best parts you can buy. If your a weekend rider. The max rods will work just fine. And for years.
What typically needs tweaking on these rods?
Maxspeedrods have a good reputation and they don’t seem to break. Almost all these rods forged in China and they are all 4340. As a matter of fact, many Western brands got them from China and machine them in their factories and print their name. This has been like that since ages and nowadays more and more. And nothing wrong with reputable Chinese company’s rods. As a matter of fact, many forged pistons are also done in the same way. Big names buy the forged castings from far east and machine them in house.
The carrillo weighing less is a good thing.
Wont aftermarket rods not influence the splash lubrication of the cylinder walls? Original GM rods had oil thrower tabs on the outer side (crank side of the bearing pocket) most aftermarket rods have nothing? Will I need to modify the rods with oil channels or the crank before use?
its about budget the carrillo rod is for the guy who doesn't have a budget but also doesn't want to build it twice.
Yes.
if you dont have the budget done build it, cause IT WILL break with the cheap chinese rubbish!
@@TurboDirectSA Chinese? They come from the UK
Jon Smith China bro
@@Tunerfreak99 Carrillo UK, made by CP's company (CP-Carrillo)
Just ordered a Maxpeedingrod polished SS front brake rotor for my Dyna Wide Glide, we'll see how it goes.
So what's the word. I'm going nuts trying to decide between MaxSpeeding and Carrillo, obviously $303 vs $1030 is awesome but i also read that the MaxSpeeding didn't fit in a online response.
@@ShannonFlippo I know it was 3 months ago now but I've got a budy with a turbo'd civic running msr rods and msr yellow blade gt30 its making in excess of 600hp and has been fine for 2 hard driving years.
@@lukecowell7516 THANK YOU
what is your conclusion? can we use it? is it a reliable product?
Why there is no lubricating hole in the bottom side of the rods?? And the factory rods have it
Funny thing is I have these rods in my seat leon Cupra r pushing 563 bhp and she has done 31000 now and still going strong, all I done was replace the rod bolts and had the rods checked before fitting making sure everything is checked and measured ,
Oh and I had the bottom end fully balanced ,
It's all about the prep.
Hello EveryDayI Race,
so ... the CARILLO Rod is the LIGHTEST of the GROUP (even lighter than STOCK ! )
I would have appreciated a LOOK at the PARTING Line between the ROD & the CAP
&
an explanation of whether the MaXPEEDING Rod was configured as a FULL-FLOATING wrist pin (normal) especially with the small-end oiling hole
&
Possibly the CARILLO Road configured as a PRESS FIT wrist pin (for whatever reason) even though it obviously has an Oiling Hole in the small-end
CARILLO does NOT omit that BRASS BUSHING in the small-end for NO Reason
did you inquire of CARILLO as to their logic ?
CURIOUS
Thank YOU for the Review - the WEIGHTS alone are quite valuable
COOP
.........................................
I'm sorry but for the price point of less than$100 each. Compared to $250 each the Carillo rod is just in a different league. But put some time to lighten the Maxpeeding rod and balance it you would have a close comparison to Carillo.
The 2 bolts in the Carrillo are either a CARR or WMC. The Carrillo is far superior. Make no mistake. And weight is everything when spinning high RPM. But many have said and it's completely true. The budget dictates the quality you will use. Carrillo does NOT get its 4340 forgings from China!
Thank you for your feedback.
I’m still up in the air on my turbocharged 14 bmw hp4 engine rebuild. Before I saw this I was hell bent on Carrillo rods since my stock rod spun a bearing for absolutely no reason at all. I F-in babied the bike since day one. Everything labor wise was completed at the bmw dealership (even tho I’m a licensed certified Suzuki service pro silver technician for 25 years) and could have easily maintained my bike myself. I was a good boy and kept on top of my maintenance appointments with the dealership. Paid stupid money for this bike. Never did any fancy riding. 3 months out of warranty the bottom end let’s go and locks up throwing me off the bike on the highway. Long story short bike was totaled and I bought it back from my insurance company and fixed it up. Now I’m rebuilding the engine with a bulletproof bottom end and ported heads. And I’m still punching numbers to see what turbo will work with my dished pistons.
But anyway I’m sorry for the backstory. I didn’t want the bmw hp4 police to come here busting balls about modding a Genuine bmw hp4 comp. don’t worry guys the value is already cut in half because it’s salvage history. So back to the topic. Your video is seriously making me consider using maxspeeding rods now. I honestly always thought the bmw s1000rr rods would last forever because I also have a 14 bmw s1000rr and I’m impressed on how bmw made its rods for that bike by building it as one piece and using a small explosive charge to actually blow the rod cap off the rod itself. I never thought my 27,000 dollar HP4 comp would almost try to kill me for being the only hp4 owner who drove it like an old man.
Anyway sorry for the long story. I’m gunna ask my machine shop tomorrow if it’s not too late to consider those rods. Thanks for your video
It happens, my 06 zx10r dropped a valve at 5k miles, shit happens. S1000rr bikes are really nice impo.
DJ Tech12zz Any update how did it go?
"Begs the question about WHY did you want such a high performance bike if you were going to ride it so gingerly?? Just for the wow factor and being seen on it? btw "...spun a bearing for absolutely no reason at all" .....Oh you KNOW there WAS a reason! It might have had nothing to do with you but there was a reason ...likely manuacturing defect ....maybe as simple as a worker skipping assembly lube or someone else failing to check clearnace
BTW some ignorant people (not a mechanic like you of course) think they are
"babying" an engine by allowing it to warm-up at idle for several minutes ....in fact they are causing wear because at idle you won't have theoil pressure .....better to just let it run for 15 seconds to get some oil moving and then drive slowly until she comes up to temperature in that way providing good oil pressure....this applies to modern engines rather than old time stuff
that's how I warm up engines. Always wondered if I was adding wear and tear by letting it move at all even if I'm babying it till gets up to temp. And bmw guy, bmw rods have recalls from rod bolts backing out. Any number of things could cause a bearing to spin on those
The 2 h-beam rods are sent to us from same factory and machined in by the company who put their name on them.
Do the small end of the rods have a caged roller bearing riding on the wrist pins, or do they use oil pressure to act as a bearing? I've never taken a crotch rocket engine apart so I'm just curious. Because I wonder why the one rod has a bronze bushing and the other two are plain steel. I got here thinking it was a small block Chevy rod comparison. I know on some older street bikes like from the 70's and 80's the wrist pins have roller bearings. Same as the two stroke dirt bikes I used to work on.
No this one doesn't, this one uses oil, doesn't have roller bearings. It's similar to your sbc.
EVERY DAY I RACE okay thanks. I had a buddy with a Kawasaki Z1 drag bike. I know some people in the high horsepower drag bike scene still think roller bearing cranks are better than plain bearings, even though plain bearings using oil pressure has been pretty standard since the Kawasaki GPz750, and all the early GSXR's but I never actually tore one apart to see the inside. I can't remember if the Z1 has roller bearings on the wrist pins too.
Hard to tell in vid, but the spends rod looked to be shot peened, a plus for extra strength. Then the bushings on the MPR rods are kinda surprising, but I assume (maybe wrong) that maybe they are just covering bases and add that just in case the forging is used to machine a rod that possibily might be used in a engine with a crappy cast crank to prevent friction wear. Like a newer junk ford eco boost China crank, or an old iron block engine from the 60s. People who buy cheaper rods probably tend to not upgrade their crank even if it’s an under build stock motor, hence why they buy a cheap rod. Most modern performance engines should have a forged crank oem though like the evo 4gs Subarus sti EJ257s and Honda turbo engines. Just maybe not your small displacement eco turbo motor that isn’t intended to be a performance factory engine if equipped.
What bearing are you running in your rods? Big end of carillo is 20.85 , oem kawi bearing is 15.85mm... wouldn't it spin if you drop those in?
Carillo has stronger rod bolts for their highest end in the same range as Custom Age 625+
Lime All the Carrillo motorcycle con rods that I have ever seen have had CA 625+ cap screws.
@@ToddWright2 Carrillo offers two grades of rod bolts, WMC entry level, then the CARR bolts, which sell for about $60-70 for each bolt.
@@hapfp1 My response is for "motorcycle" Con rod bolts. I have used dozens of sets of Carillo motorcycle Con rods and have never even seen a "motorcycle" rod bolt in a Carillo rod that is not CA625+ in the past 20 years.
Those bolts used to.be SPS multi-phase units, but are now as noted above.
I am aware of the different rod bolt materials for other than motorcycle rods. Don't listen to.me. Call CP-Carillo and ask.
how do you spell the last rods?????
No talk about lighter rod with less rod stretch is what you want, less reciprocating mass means more HP to the rear wheel, less rod stretch means less catastrophic failure. Heavier rods does not equate to strength, but definitely equate to power robbing rotational mass. In this case better go cheap with OEM or Carrillo, anything else is half way, half way closer to catastrophic engine failure, that actually with DYno less than the OEM rods
Great video, useful information that is vital to helping me decide.
Over $700 added to pay for a name carillo when the $300 rods will do just fine
Yes, your getting a better more tuned in rod. But your paying a lot more because of the name. No different than buying a $50 cotton t-shirt with the name Versace on the tag vs a $10 cotton t-shirt from Wal Mart. Take the Max rods to a shop and how them balance and it and add upgraded connecting bolds. Save yourself at least $600 and still beat the competition.
That's one way to look at it. Another is that it's going to cost more than 700 once one of the cheaper ones let go. You are paying for the r&d, testing and knowledge that Carillo have, whereas maxpeedingrods are an unknown at this point
you shoud also do a rockwell test on all the rods to see how the material compares, alot of rod manifactures ten to use a 35--39 RC FORGING but i am now starting to see more rod manufactures heat treat the forgings t0 39-44 RC. i think you will find the carrillo will be a stronger forging to
Would you recommend the maxpeeding rods in a 2jz 700bhp ? I’m in doubt . Use stock tt rods or the maxpeeding rod 👍
I don't have any experience with 2jz engines, so i can't recommend anything to you.
@@everydayirace i always think if the max speeding rods can take 400 hp+ in boosted zx10 engines
How light by drilling can a person make the max speeding or carillo rods for an NA build to make them as weak as the stock but much lighter
What do you think?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj Thats not how it works bud
@@thbigshot101 k let it blow then
Still waiting on it to throw the rod from the side
@@FirstLast-tx3yj I see ur a troll. good day
Wow, big weight difference, especially if rated to same power and RPM. 60.5 grams, that's about 7.65CC of steel by volume. That is a lot.
When you weighed them, I was amazed that the rods were only 380 grams, until i realised you said that they're ninja rods.
Carrilo is beter ?
Yes, and they're lighter.
When going with a aftermarket rod how do you select the correct bearing?
Same as you would do for a stock rod.
carillow charges for what is IN the rod....not thicker or thinner. The metal that the carillo is made from is way, way different than the metal that the Chineese rods use. you pay for what you get.
What's in the metal, how's it different?
@@everydayirace Carillo uses a metal blend that they specify for their rods. The Chinese rods may do fine.... and they may not They advertise 4340 Chrome moly steel. Where did that metal come from??. Carillo has won on every race track in the world and they are used for that reason. One thing to remember is that when a rod lets go it will NOT be when you are idling around in the pits. It will be when you are at the end of a straightaway turning over 7,000. When THAT happens often times the only thing that can be salvaged is the water pump. I spent 15 years running short tracks and have seen a LOT of scattered engines. I can say that I have never seen one that had Carillos. I have seen a LOT with stock rods laying on the pavement but no Carillos. You are going to save about 800 bucks installing the Chinese rods. Remember that if and when it breaks.
You should do a comparison then 😂
@@genemartin6962 the trick is that material-wise the Maxpeedingrods are absolutely fine, certainly nothing for high-end racing, but pretty quality material... In terms of measurments though, they have a slight tendency to veer off, hence my teacher always buys two sets of them, completes an in-spec set and sells the rest to someone who will wreck their engine anyway =D As for the failure rates, it's how you build it more than with what
i expected stock rod from a modern high end japanese motorcycle company to look better than a skeleton mock up of a thigh bone! i cant believe my stock suzuki bandit could be having one of those ugly ''bones'' which probably are weaker than the one you showed from the kawasaki!
They are strong enough for stock or lightly modded engines.
arrgghhh i expected them to look nicer at least...
Looks don't make em any stronger, but add cost.
They are made to be as light as possible, everything on a performance motorycle is. They are all an ass hairs breadth away from self destructing at all times.
Thank you for this vid
My srad is getting a 640cc cp carillo big bore, but im sticking w oem rods. Bike should make 110whp
Thanks for the info
You're welcome.
are the Carrillo Titanium ?
No.
sure priced like titanium though ;)
Brian Crower titanium rods are $980..... EACH
you have no way to get better lubrication on the kinetic because I will have a lot of nitro and I am afraid I do not have any issue of destroying the engine
Touching those bolts with your fingers is a bad idea... the oils and acids on your hands will cause bolt material to be compromised...CARR bolts are far superior to ARP....but they are pricey
195 to 200 hp atmospheric and 100 to 80 hp around 300 horses and
Lighter carrillo rods are strong enough to handle 400-500hp, adding more material to them for more strength isn't a good idea.
MaxSpeeding bolts have coarse threat. The fine thread like on the Carillo bolts i would have expected.
Not in the car rods I have used and used many of them, they use ARP 2000, and all of them are fine thread.
WOW = Nice CATCH on the COURSE vs FINE thread on the con-rod BOLTS
Now I'm curious as to the STOCK Con-Rod BOLTS & NUTS ( I wish the OP would have removed & viewed and weighed them ) !!!
--- the VIDEO did NOT focus very long on a side-by-side VIEW of those rod bolts
but
I finally got to the VIDEO long enough to COMPARE the two THREAD-PITCHES - thank YOU for pointing this out
COOP
...................................
The maxspeedingrod arp bolts are fake by the way
Wow, a 4.5 gram difference is certainly not worth the money to me. I was expecting under 300 numbers.
Have anyone using maxpeeding rod n tested to its limits?? Or overdo till it let go??
I haven't.
We use them in the small 4efte engines ,and they hold up pretty good ,got one thats making 500hp with boost ,bad tuning kills them like any other
Maxspeed rods for nitrous zx 10r is good or carrillo
If you can afford carrillo, go with them.
1000$ the carillo bolts are nickel plated for heat deflection lol
Are both rod same metal ?4140 4160?6061 ?? Wtf it’s is
Yep. Carillo; lighter, stronger, faster.
Don't waste your money buy the right decision
after working on nitro I do not care much about weight but for strength
How much nitrous are you planning on using?
maxpeeding is cheap stuff, ok for beginners but please balance. Carillo is pure excellence and you are lucky they cater for a market full of cheapskate ungrateful idiots, their quality is spectacular and only surpassed by very high end f1 componentry
ValladolidArde that was my thoughts exactly, Carrillo makes rods for Yamaha R3 and Kawasaki 300 so seriously i am grateful that a high quality component is even available for such small displacement engines.
You could get better then Carillo threw Brian Crower, titanium rods for a grand each.
All these high end rods are made in China thats why these copies look the same hell ill bet you anything that most of these high end rods are just shipped in re-branded cheap rods. As I said to someone else I got a budy with a turbo civic running msr turbo and rods its making over 600hp and has been fine for a couple years hard driving.
You know nothing. I've been to the Carrillo factory in Irvine. I doubt even think anybody can speak Chinese there. Put your money where your mouth is at big shot. Chinese products are crap.
@@norberthofer5830 this was a year ago by the way my mates civic is still going strong also so is my 400hp mk4 golf 1.8t running msr rods keep your overpriced carillo rods
@@norberthofer5830 Chinese products are crap?? Literally everything is made in China
Break them mofo we need to see a break stress test
U wanna have a heavy rod vs light rod nd floating pins bc thats the best of both worlds turk nd HP RPM so i go w maxxspeed rods All day
Negative on the heavy rod ghost rider.
EVERY DAY I RACE m talking for car kid not bikes but lturk nd rom is were is at
SRT8/power 6,4 WHATS MAXXSPEED!?? THERE CALLED MAXPEEDING. CHEAP SHIT CANT EVEN SPELL THERE OWN NAME CORRECTLY
Maxspeed rod might be better for boost due to being beefier, but light weight is always better as long as it's strong enough for the loads. Heavy rods do not give more torque, just more stress on the crank and more friction.
@@Midnight_Rider96 right? Also I would put all my money on Carillo rods holding more power then the heavier rod due to how they are manufactured