Advice for someone who just did it - if the axle is not budging from the bracket - seems to be common: just remove the bracket. It’s held on by 3 bolts. The back one is hard. The bottom front one is hard. You need to spin the dog ears as much as possible. Anyway, I did it, it worked
Thanks for posting it was very helpful. Drivers side axle came out no problem with a bit or prying. Like Chris said, you will absolutely need the slide hammer with attached cv axle remover if you plan on doing this job and your car has some mileage on it. I couldn't get the axle out of the carrier bearing without the tool. I had to beat the hell out of it with the tool to get it out. I was able to rent it for free from autozone.
Sounds like your situation was better than mine. Not even a slide hammer with chains could remove mine. I had to use a torch, an air hammer, and finally a pry bar with a hammer before mine would come loose.
I just have to say thanks for sharing. You saved me 1100 bucks by making this and the driver side video. Sincerely appreciate this video and your others.
Good video. This was very helpful. I ran into a problem attempting to get the Passenger axle out. No matter how much prying and hammering, the darn thing wouldn't come out. I ran to AutoZone and rented a slide hammer with axle puller adapter, and still no luck. So I sprayed PB blaster where the Axle connected to the transmission and carrier baring. I tried it again the next day and was able to pop it out using the slide hammer and adapter.
Bryce Jones same. Everyone says it should just slide out. I’ve got the whole engine and transmission out of the van and I could barely get mine out of that circle bracket and can’t get the new one in without beating it with a sledge hammer. Even lubed it up with wheel bearing grease. What is the deal!?
@@brycejones137 I ended up having to take a grinder and sandpaper to take off a very small amount of material off the outside of my new axle and the inside of that bracket on the back of the motor. After I got a little of the surface removed, it goes right in and out. Never ran into a problem like this on something this new with relatively low miles. 122k on mine.
@@diversedad7954 same thing happened to me (Michigan 200k miles). I was able to remove the whole mounting bracket by removing two bolts and cutting the third that was blocked by the intermediate bearing mount. Even with it in a vice, I had to take it apart piece by piece because it was so corrosion welded that it would not separate. Gosh, that was awful.
I did my driver side last night is exactly simple as on your vdo but the nut sizes are 19, 21 and 36, 2014 Odyssey as on your vdo. Thanks and Mahalo your vdo now i gained confidence to do the passenger side. my car still clinging and clapping still, any advise please
you are, plus shoes don't prevent a 3500 lb vehicle from crushing you anyways. for that use jack stands AND scissor jacks on both sides of the subframe or better yet use 2x4 cribbing, do not use cinder blocks
So that was transmission fluid leaking out? I have the popping/clicking sound when turning at stopped to very slow speed. Had some hassle getting the right part through my mechanic so this vid is awesome. Definitely looks to be a doable DIY project. Thank you!
Most videos only showed the driver's side. Thank you for taking the time to show the passenger side. Did you find that you needed an alignment after finishing the job?
I am currently trying to replace my right side CV axle on my 2011 Honda Odyssey EXL and the carrier bearing is stuck and I cannot get the intermediate shaft out. any suggestions I've been at it for three and a half hours.
Well I did get it done after about six hours of working on this thing. The carrier bearing retaining flange broke after I was trying to pry it to one side or the other. After the retaining Flange broke I had to unbolt the retaining flange off the engine then the axle came out very easily. Had to carefully take the flange off from the retaining flange without breaking the mounting bracket. In the process of doing this I wanted to change the hub bearing assembly in addition to all the other problems the hub assembly broke apart and then I had to press it out of The Hub assembly. now that I have the right side done tomorrow on to the left side, hopefully that will be easier
@@kenschoenberger5528I'm going through the same thing right now. I like video and all but maybe there needs to be a Midwest addition where everything is rust welded together
Had the same problem, tried to hit the CV with a pry bar and hammer, no luck. Got a 4ft piece of rebar, removed the drivers wheel and was able to use the rebar like a long punch with a 3lb hammer to get it out
Hi, excellent video. I have the 2014 pilot and it's the same. If the inner cv bearing is stuck (maybe rust), can I safely hit the outer part trying to rotate it. Or what do you recommend?
Hey, I am getting a metal clunk sound when I move my 2014 Honda Odyssey from park to reverse and then again to drive. Do you know what the issue might be?
I don’t think that would matter much, but it might help to prevent more transmission fluid leaking out if you only do the one side… Best of luck to you! Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan cool that’s what I was thinking too , just wasn’t sure if there was another reason I need to support the drivers side. Thanks and great vid
Like others have said, mine was dang near welded to the carrier bearing mount. Ended up breaking the ears off the flange. Bought a new axle and it was just as hard to get in. Even had a spare carrier bearing mount from a parts engine I tried and it was also incredibly tight. My Honda mechanic friend thinks I’m crazy and it should just slide in and out of that bracket. Why do I always have these issues? I’m swapping this entire motor and this darn cv axle has me stumped.
@@rexrufer like I said. I used a hammer and I think a flathead screwdriver or chisel and tapped around the crack between the flange and slowly worked it loose but I ended up breaking a bolt flange off in the process
my 2014 Honda Odyssey clapping and clunging when hit a pothole or rough road surface could anyone advise me of what to do, I already replace both side CV axles but still not solve the clapping noise. Thanks in advance
Does a normal carrier bearing have any vertical movement in it? My axle seems fine but when I did the sway bar end links and bushing I noticed at my carrier bearing location that there is about 1/8 inch total vertical movement. I think I might need to change it.
Most carrier bearings will get pretty noisy when they go bad. I don't know how much play is within spec on this one, but I wouldn't think much at all. It may be starting to go bad...I would keep an eye (and an ear) on it and replace it if it starts to make noise. Best of luck to you. -Dan
You might want to add a note on the video about the cv axle being seized on the carrier bearing, seems to be a common problem with the 100K + mileage Odysseys. Had no luck getting it out until I attached locking pliers to the end of a sliding hammer.
I gave up because I thought the carirres bearing was pressed in like a wheel bearing. It seems to be stuck and it's difficult to get anything in there to hit it from behind, at least with the ground clearance I had. Maybe I'll have another go at it.
I pay a mechanic to change my CV axles joint (with aftermarket) ones not OEM, but the passager side axles started leaking at the gasket joint, then we changed the gasket and now after few months the gasket started leaking again... please any suggestions should I change the axle with OEM ones and a new gasket.
Super helpful. I'm doing this to our van today or tomorrow on the PAX side. Approx. how long did it take you from jacking up to lowering to the ground?
Dan the Fix it Man thanks! Took me about the same to do the passenger side only. No challenges at all and the drive is as new. Thanks again for the videos. Very helpful
Hi Daniel, Yes. I didn't mention it in the video, but it's in the description: "...you will also need to top off the transmission based on the amount of fluid that drains out. Between both sides, we lost just over a quart of fluid and so that's the amount we put back in the transmission." Thank you for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
Yes, that could be the cv joint going bad. If the boot is torn, the grease will leak out and cause the joint to fail. I would start by inspecting the boot for cracks or tears. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Honda has a tech bulletin regarding knocking noise when turning. involves tightening the top shock bolts and applying grease under the shock boot.
So like most others the carrier bearing is stuck and in the process I pulled the axle apart at the half how screwed am I? I think I just pulled too hard on the outer portion of the axle and it came apart. Should I just keep trying to get the rest of the axle out?
Got it….Actually this made it easier to pry out the bearing. Started at the bottom with a small flat head and slowly hammered it in then it broken free
there are no aftermarket cv axles for honda, they are all oem, they just rebuild them. the axle seals however definately stick with oem, aftermarket seals leak
Hi guys when I turn left or right some kind of noise coming I know that's not a exel it's is just replaced last year mechanic told me before that's bolt joined but all of sudden transmission oil leaking then he said hanger bering screw broken he put new screw passenger side but that noise is still there any idea
SPRAY PB BLASTER ALL OVER /ON / OVER NIGHT OR AT LEAST 30 minutes before prying between the carrier bearing bracket and the intermediate shaft. Gently tap with pry bar, tap a hammer on the end of the pry bar, if necessary. The point is be patient and go slow or you run the risk of breaking the carrier bearing bracket, it's very thin cast metal. Keep spraying PB blaster on the carrier bearing bracket as the intermediate shaft begins to slide forward. BE PATIENT!!!!
I just did both my axles on 2006 Honda odyssey and you don’t need to take the ball joint or tie rod apart just the two bolts off the Strut , Not everybody can get their joints, separated, that easy so they would have to spend more money.
Is there any way to get a MAP Gas torch in there to help with the seized carrier bearing? I know it’s all aluminum so was wondering if anyone tried a heat source.
Hello, does anyone have an idea how much this should cost for parts and labor for a model year 2012 Odyssey EXL compared to getting a set of Monroe front struts installed if the struts cost $350 to install not counting alignment. My mechanic said $360 for both axels to be replaced. He charged $240 for a crankshaft position sensor changeout. I was wondering if I am getting ripped off or are these reasonable prices?
So what originally happens is that you tried to pry it off with a screwdriver heat or something and you're cursing it out,. And it doesn't budge, like I said great video but major issue with the original axles. And no video on those things which happened naturally everything's like oh look it's easy
my ball joint did not separate nearly as easily as Dan's did. I had to use a ball joint separator tool ($10 Harbor Freight). Without that it was just not coming apart with prying and hammering.
Good video, everything was great until you went to reinstall the inner shaft. The video was pitch black. Couldn't see anything on the install to transmission. I little lighting would have made the difference.
@@emsp5558 It has been a while since I did this, but I am pretty sure I have taken that bracket off before removing the axle on this same make and model. It looks like some of the comments from a while back have done the same, and are recommending that way. May not be easy though…sorry. Possibly a flex head wrench or something similar?
2011 Ody with 275k miles. The bolts that mount the carrier bearing bracket to the engine mounted bracket were nearly frozen in place to the point I thought I was going to snap them. I used my impact wrench (with a bunch of extensions) to tighten/loosen/tighten to break the corrosion. Then I found that the carrier bearing bracket (with ears) was fused to the engine mounted bracket due to corrosion and miles (useful video that discusses this problem th-cam.com/video/nhpSjaFN0Jc/w-d-xo.html). Since I could not even spin the carrier bearing bracket, it was not possible to back out the engine mount bracket bolts (like @laurencezemlick1979 stated below) in order to remove the whole assembly. I ripped out the outer axle/hub which left the half shaft in place still connected to the transmission. Over 4 days I attacked this with heat, hammer&punch strikes, pry bars, come-along & a slide hammer (rented free upon return from Autozone where I bought the new axle). Here is the process that worked to finally separate the 2 brackets: started with 5 straight minutes of MAP/Oxygen heat from underneath (heat gun registered 450F, the bracket dissipates heat rapidly so it takes a while to get this up to temp), followed by the air hammer applied to the carrier bearing bracket for 2 minutes which caused the bracket to move ever so slightly which was my clue to move on to the slide hammer to finish the job to pull it out. I really thought I would have to cut it out (see this Sienna video if you have to cut it out th-cam.com/video/pb67N-asQUs/w-d-xo.html). That was a beast. Good luck to you.
Advice for someone who just did it - if the axle is not budging from the bracket - seems to be common: just remove the bracket. It’s held on by 3 bolts. The back one is hard. The bottom front one is hard. You need to spin the dog ears as much as possible. Anyway, I did it, it worked
Thanks for posting it was very helpful. Drivers side axle came out no problem with a bit or prying. Like Chris said, you will absolutely need the slide hammer with attached cv axle remover if you plan on doing this job and your car has some mileage on it. I couldn't get the axle out of the carrier bearing without the tool. I had to beat the hell out of it with the tool to get it out. I was able to rent it for free from autozone.
Sounds like your situation was better than mine. Not even a slide hammer with chains could remove mine. I had to use a torch, an air hammer, and finally a pry bar with a hammer before mine would come loose.
I just have to say thanks for sharing. You saved me 1100 bucks by making this and the driver side video.
Sincerely appreciate this video and your others.
Thank you Phil,
Glad to hear you were able to save so much money!
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
Good video. This was very helpful. I ran into a problem attempting to get the Passenger axle out. No matter how much prying and hammering, the darn thing wouldn't come out. I ran to AutoZone and rented a slide hammer with axle puller adapter, and still no luck. So I sprayed PB blaster where the Axle connected to the transmission and carrier baring. I tried it again the next day and was able to pop it out using the slide hammer and adapter.
Chris I'm having this same problem right now. Dear Lord I'm about to lose my sh!t.
Bryce Jones same. Everyone says it should just slide out. I’ve got the whole engine and transmission out of the van and I could barely get mine out of that circle bracket and can’t get the new one in without beating it with a sledge hammer. Even lubed it up with wheel bearing grease. What is the deal!?
@@brycejones137 I ended up having to take a grinder and sandpaper to take off a very small amount of material off the outside of my new axle and the inside of that bracket on the back of the motor. After I got a little of the surface removed, it goes right in and out. Never ran into a problem like this on something this new with relatively low miles. 122k on mine.
@@diversedad7954 same thing happened to me (Michigan 200k miles). I was able to remove the whole mounting bracket by removing two bolts and cutting the third that was blocked by the intermediate bearing mount. Even with it in a vice, I had to take it apart piece by piece because it was so corrosion welded that it would not separate. Gosh, that was awful.
Thanks for making this video gave me the confidence to complete the job successfully
I did my driver side last night is exactly simple as on your vdo but the nut sizes are 19, 21 and 36, 2014 Odyssey as on your vdo. Thanks and Mahalo your vdo now i gained confidence to do the passenger side. my car still clinging and clapping still, any advise please
Exactly what I needed, bless your little heart.
You using flip flops underneath a vehicle being worked on makes me believe I've been over dressed for my own DIY car repairs for some time now.
you are, plus shoes don't prevent a 3500 lb vehicle from crushing you anyways. for that use jack stands AND scissor jacks on both sides of the subframe or better yet use 2x4 cribbing, do not use cinder blocks
Ever drop a rim or a hammer on your foot? Even a can of PB hits your foot the right way, you might start wearing boots.
So that was transmission fluid leaking out? I have the popping/clicking sound when turning at stopped to very slow speed. Had some hassle getting the right part through my mechanic so this vid is awesome. Definitely looks to be a doable DIY project. Thank you!
i have the same problem of clapping and clung on rough road or turn, if you got the answer please forward this way, Thanks in advance for your time
Most videos only showed the driver's side. Thank you for taking the time to show the passenger side.
Did you find that you needed an alignment after finishing the job?
Yes,
The alignment is recommended.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
I am currently trying to replace my right side CV axle on my 2011 Honda Odyssey EXL and the carrier bearing is stuck and I cannot get the intermediate shaft out. any suggestions I've been at it for three and a half hours.
Well I did get it done after about six hours of working on this thing. The carrier bearing retaining flange broke after I was trying to pry it to one side or the other. After the retaining Flange broke I had to unbolt the retaining flange off the engine then the axle came out very easily. Had to carefully take the flange off from the retaining flange without breaking the mounting bracket. In the process of doing this I wanted to change the hub bearing assembly in addition to all the other problems the hub assembly broke apart and then I had to press it out of The Hub assembly. now that I have the right side done tomorrow on to the left side, hopefully that will be easier
@@kenschoenberger5528I'm going through the same thing right now. I like video and all but maybe there needs to be a Midwest addition where everything is rust welded together
Had the same problem, tried to hit the CV with a pry bar and hammer, no luck. Got a 4ft piece of rebar, removed the drivers wheel and was able to use the rebar like a long punch with a 3lb hammer to get it out
Is that transmission oil that leaked out when you took out the old Cv axle?
When doing the passenger side CV, does it need to “click” like the driver side or is it just held into place with the bolts?
No snap ring like the driver side, instead the carrier mount holes you want to align and tighten after getting the end in there.
Hi, excellent video. I have the 2014 pilot and it's the same. If the inner cv bearing is stuck (maybe rust), can I safely hit the outer part trying to rotate it. Or what do you recommend?
Yes. Tap it from behind using some sort of metal bar and hammer.
So easy to understand. U should be an automotive instructor. Thank you very much for posting this video.
Hey, I am getting a metal clunk sound when I move my 2014 Honda Odyssey from park to reverse and then again to drive. Do you know what the issue might be?
Thank you & God bless you, you're a life saver!!!!!!!!!
Thanks Shaq,
Glad my video helped you out.
Take care,
-Dan the Fix it Man
I will be doing this job this weekend, will be doing on ground…should I jack and support just the passenger side or lift both sides? Does it matter?
I don’t think that would matter much, but it might help to prevent more transmission fluid leaking out if you only do the one side…
Best of luck to you!
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan cool that’s what I was thinking too , just wasn’t sure if there was another reason I need to support the drivers side. Thanks and great vid
Like others have said, mine was dang near welded to the carrier bearing mount. Ended up breaking the ears off the flange. Bought a new axle and it was just as hard to get in. Even had a spare carrier bearing mount from a parts engine I tried and it was also incredibly tight. My Honda mechanic friend thinks I’m crazy and it should just slide in and out of that bracket. Why do I always have these issues? I’m swapping this entire motor and this darn cv axle has me stumped.
SAME.
LIKE. IT'S. WELDED.
How did you get yours undone??m
@@rexrufer like I said. I used a hammer and I think a flathead screwdriver or chisel and tapped around the crack between the flange and slowly worked it loose but I ended up breaking a bolt flange off in the process
Are those OSHA approved flip flops?
my 2014 Honda Odyssey clapping and clunging when hit a pothole or rough road surface could anyone advise me of what to do, I already replace both side CV axles but still not solve the clapping noise. Thanks in advance
Does a normal carrier bearing have any vertical movement in it? My axle seems fine but when I did the sway bar end links and bushing I noticed at my carrier bearing location that there is about 1/8 inch total vertical movement. I think I might need to change it.
Most carrier bearings will get pretty noisy when they go bad. I don't know how much play is within spec on this one, but I wouldn't think much at all. It may be starting to go bad...I would keep an eye (and an ear) on it and replace it if it starts to make noise.
Best of luck to you.
-Dan
You might want to add a note on the video about the cv axle being seized on the carrier bearing, seems to be a common problem with the 100K + mileage Odysseys. Had no luck getting it out until I attached locking pliers to the end of a sliding hammer.
I removed the drivers side wheel and used a long piece of rebar like a punch to hammer it out from the back
I gave up because I thought the carirres bearing was pressed in like a wheel bearing. It seems to be stuck and it's difficult to get anything in there to hit it from behind, at least with the ground clearance I had. Maybe I'll have another go at it.
Just buy the axle with the carrier bearing, better and safer.
I pay a mechanic to change my CV axles joint (with aftermarket) ones not OEM, but the passager side axles started leaking at the gasket joint, then we changed the gasket and now after few months the gasket started leaking again... please any suggestions should I change the axle with OEM ones and a new gasket.
Does this affect the front and alignment?
Super helpful. I'm doing this to our van today or tomorrow on the PAX side. Approx. how long did it take you from jacking up to lowering to the ground?
I think it took about 1 1/2 hours including filming it. (each side). Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
Dan the Fix it Man thanks! Took me about the same to do the passenger side only. No challenges at all and the drive is as new. Thanks again for the videos. Very helpful
Very detailed instruction. Thank you for making this video!
when you are done, do you just need to top off the transmission fluid that was lost?
Hi Daniel,
Yes. I didn't mention it in the video, but it's in the description:
"...you will also need to top off the transmission based on the amount of fluid that drains out. Between both sides, we lost just over a quart of fluid and so that's the amount we put back in the transmission."
Thank you for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan do you remember the part number?
No, sorry. These were purchased by the owner of the van.
Thx,
Dan the Fix it Man
I have 2014 Honda Accord will the axel nut be the same size 36mm or is it different..
Does it matter if I have the transmission in park or neutral before starting this job and removing the axle from the transmission?
No, that doesn’t matter. Thank you for watching!
Dan the Fix it Man
I have a popping noise from the driver side when slowly accelerating from a turn. Could that be caused from a bad cv axle?
Yes, that could be the cv joint going bad. If the boot is torn, the grease will leak out and cause the joint to fail. I would start by inspecting the boot for cracks or tears.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
@@DantheFixitMan Honda has a tech bulletin regarding knocking noise when turning. involves tightening the top shock bolts and applying grease under the shock boot.
@@knfpumps I just completed that service bulletin and it made no difference on my 2011 Odyssey which is why I am here.
So like most others the carrier bearing is stuck and in the process I pulled the axle apart at the half how screwed am I? I think I just pulled too hard on the outer portion of the axle and it came apart. Should I just keep trying to get the rest of the axle out?
Got it….Actually this made it easier to pry out the bearing. Started at the bottom with a small flat head and slowly hammered it in then it broken free
@@nsgibson glad you got it figured out!
Thanks for watching!
Is procedure same for a 2011 Acura MDX? Thanks for making this video.
mdx has cv axle that goes directly into the transaxle, there is no half shafl/ intermediate shaft so it's easier than this
Are you using aftermarket or OEM? I heard that Honda does not get along with aftermarket parts. I have to do the same work on mine. Thanks
there are no aftermarket cv axles for honda, they are all oem, they just rebuild them. the axle seals however definately stick with oem, aftermarket seals leak
Thank you!! Did same on 13 Pilot!!
Hi guys when I turn left or right some kind of noise coming I know that's not a exel it's is just replaced last year mechanic told me before that's bolt joined but all of sudden transmission oil leaking then he said hanger bering screw broken he put new screw passenger side but that noise is still there any idea
SPRAY PB BLASTER ALL OVER /ON / OVER NIGHT OR AT LEAST 30 minutes before prying between the carrier bearing bracket and the intermediate shaft. Gently tap with pry bar, tap a hammer on the end of the pry bar, if necessary. The point is be patient and go slow or you run the risk of breaking the carrier bearing bracket, it's very thin cast metal. Keep spraying PB blaster on the carrier bearing bracket as the intermediate shaft begins to slide forward. BE PATIENT!!!!
2 days.
No luck.
I just did both my axles on 2006 Honda odyssey and you don’t need to take the ball joint or tie rod apart just the two bolts off the Strut , Not everybody can get their joints, separated, that easy so they would have to spend more money.
Is there any way to get a MAP Gas torch in there to help with the seized carrier bearing? I know it’s all aluminum so was wondering if anyone tried a heat source.
Very nice, thank you!
Hello, does anyone have an idea how much this should cost for parts and labor for a model year 2012 Odyssey EXL compared to getting a set of Monroe front struts installed if the struts cost $350 to install not counting alignment.
My mechanic said $360 for both axels to be replaced.
He charged $240 for a crankshaft position sensor changeout.
I was wondering if I am getting ripped off or are these reasonable prices?
Miteco 1 $360 for parts and labor is a very fair price
Here at Fremont Honda I’m being quoted $650 for only 1 side, the passenger side to replace the outer cv boot
@@ptinio2 That is probably for a OEM Honda axle which i highly recommend over a aftermarket axle. Aftermarket axles are usually junk.
At Mile High Honda in Aurora, CO they quoted $616 to replace the passenger side axle assembly for my 2011 Ody.
Great guide
How much of the transmission fluid you wasted 🤔 I guess you filled it up
Please be aware great video but major problems CV axle. And it's the original axle. The bracket may have merged with the frame.
So what originally happens is that you tried to pry it off with a screwdriver heat or something and you're cursing it out,. And it doesn't budge, like I said great video but major issue with the original axles. And no video on those things which happened naturally everything's like oh look it's easy
Did you need a crow's foot adapter to torque the 19mm ball joint nut to spec?
I probably just went by 'feel', but that's a good idea. Best of luck to you.
-Dan the Fix it Man
no just a regular socket and an extension adapter
Ok first great vid
Second goto ask y
lower control
Be easier spindle from strut
More movement easier access
Pb blaster first step 😆 helps long way.
That's the way i went...was done in 30mins
fantastic video. many thanks!
my ball joint did not separate nearly as easily as Dan's did. I had to use a ball joint separator tool ($10 Harbor Freight). Without that it was just not coming apart with prying and hammering.
Good video, everything was great until you went to reinstall the inner shaft. The video was pitch black. Couldn't see anything on the install to transmission. I little lighting would have made the difference.
mine will not pull out of the carrier bearing. just wish a video would show mech having problems.
You can just remove the bracket that it goes through and tap it out in a vise. Or try a slide hammer.
I can't access one bolt for the bracket, it's being blocked by the axle
@@emsp5558 It has been a while since I did this, but I am pretty sure I have taken that bracket off before removing the axle on this same make and model. It looks like some of the comments from a while back have done the same, and are recommending that way. May not be easy though…sorry. Possibly a flex head wrench or something similar?
@@DantheFixitMan but there's not enough clearance for the wrench to fit. It's too thick
I don't think the flex head is the issue
Same way to 2006 Odyssey???
2011 Ody with 275k miles. The bolts that mount the carrier bearing bracket to the engine mounted bracket were nearly frozen in place to the point I thought I was going to snap them. I used my impact wrench (with a bunch of extensions) to tighten/loosen/tighten to break the corrosion. Then I found that the carrier bearing bracket (with ears) was fused to the engine mounted bracket due to corrosion and miles (useful video that discusses this problem th-cam.com/video/nhpSjaFN0Jc/w-d-xo.html). Since I could not even spin the carrier bearing bracket, it was not possible to back out the engine mount bracket bolts (like @laurencezemlick1979 stated below) in order to remove the whole assembly. I ripped out the outer axle/hub which left the half shaft in place still connected to the transmission. Over 4 days I attacked this with heat, hammer&punch strikes, pry bars, come-along & a slide hammer (rented free upon return from Autozone where I bought the new axle). Here is the process that worked to finally separate the 2 brackets: started with 5 straight minutes of MAP/Oxygen heat from underneath (heat gun registered 450F, the bracket dissipates heat rapidly so it takes a while to get this up to temp), followed by the air hammer applied to the carrier bearing bracket for 2 minutes which caused the bracket to move ever so slightly which was my clue to move on to the slide hammer to finish the job to pull it out. I really thought I would have to cut it out (see this Sienna video if you have to cut it out th-cam.com/video/pb67N-asQUs/w-d-xo.html). That was a beast. Good luck to you.
The axle nut is 242 lbs
6:30 the whole thing is stuck as hell
Mine popped out easily
torque spec on axle nut is wrong. should be 242 ft lb
Dude please wearing some safety shoes next time ok,,,!!!!
It
you need a better camera and better lighting, cannot see a damn thing in the video