Just updated: I used my scissors as you had done and since my plastics are on, I was able to clamp it on the fuel side close to the tank and after letting it run for 24 seconds. I had unclamped the hose and was able to hear a big rush of vacuum. I now feel better to start the ATV up without having to worry. Thanks again for your video.
Thank you for your videos I’m 24 never worked on my sportsman before and this was a big help made the task a lot easier to see someone do it before hand.
Glad it/they helped. Thats the goal. Keep at it. It gets easier each time and you'll find its really not that much of an ordeal once you get familiar and proficient at it.
Man huge thanks for all the videos you've put together on the Sportsman 500. They have helped immensely in the maintenance and fixing of several (almost all) issues that I'm having with the same machine. Seriously I'd buy you many drinks for all the help you've provided. Your videos are very detailed and easy to follow. much appreciated!!! Thanks again! - Dan in Montana
Great to hear. Always a good feeling when intentions are realized. I actually just posted a few new ones. Starter on a RZR 800 and the CDI box and ignition coil on the 1999 sportsman 500. More to come. Thanks for the feedback.
Your videos are by far the best I’ve seen so far. I appreciate a little longer format and explanation. I have a 2003 Polaris sportsman 400 I got from a family member. I’ll be going through your playlists! Thanks again! Great video!
Thank you. Glad you've found them helpful. Some like a 10 second solution to the worlds problems and some times that's appropriate and all it takes. But I find that approach, on some of the stuff Ive covered can leave more questions than answers. My intention is to try to answer or clarify things that Id have question about if it was new to me and hopefully leave a viewer feeling confident they can do it themself. And understand how and why. And When that happens for a viewer. It's all I could hope for, all worth it. Thanks again.
Glad you like them. Im assuming you've seen the other stuff on the channel. I do occasionally subject hop a bit but will always do more Sportsman and like videos. So if you see me go off topic. Doesn't mean Im done with those. Ill always do them as projects present themselves. If you haven't subscribed feel free. It's free. And you'll be notified when there is a video posted.
I watched this about a year ago because I knew I wanted one of these. Just got one today and can’t wait to go through it thoroughly with help from this video. Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video!
Well thanks. Glad it made enough of an impression to come back to it a year later. I am currently in the process of making a few more. Changing the starter switch, Stator, Ignition coil, and CDI box. If you have any interest in those check back. And of course all the other stuff that's already there. Thanks for the feedback.
I'll be keeping an eye on this channel. I just acquired a 1997 Sportsman 500 from my neighbor that has been sitting out in the woods for about 5 years for free. He was going to scrap it. Literally everything needs to be gone over and restored or replaced. Your videos will help tremendously. It'll be a project I'll work on over the next year or so. Keep the videos coming and Thank you.
Will do. I will stray from the topic from time to time of course but will always land back on repair stuff. Thanks for the support. And good luck with the project.
Good to hear. If you haven't discovered already, there are a few other videos as well on the channel and more to come. The machine has been out of reach this winter but I plan to cover more topics when the opportunity arrises.
@@ericinalaska7648 I have, and thank you. I have already discovered the crime against wiring via rodents in the headlight shroud, and under the front cover, and someones attempt to "repair" the magnetic hub locks, so I've got my work cut out for me, thank you making these, you are my Sportsman repair info go-to.
Great video and attention to detail. Picked up a 2010 Sportsman 500 a couple of months ago. Replacing rear axles and full service. This video really helps.
Glad it helped. I had made an axle replacement video a while back and misplaced the footage along the way or accidentally erased or something of the sort. If you haven't done it before its a relatively simple job. Everything takes time of course. But not too bad. Good luck on your project. More to come.
Great video. Newbie owner of a 2002 500 HO. Seeing the plastic off when working is very educational. Looking forward to seeing more of your vids. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Lots of other Polaris videos on the playlist on the channel if you haven't seen that already, and More to come. Also a bunch of other topics I deviate to occasionally. Glad you found it helpful.
They're pretty simple in the big picture. If your mechanically inclined and you take the time to familiarize your self a bit. And there are lots and lots of resources available these days. If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out. Im not saying I'll have the answer but I'll do my best. Good luck.
Great job on the video. I just purchased a 1995 magnum 425 for my son. We watched your video together and now going to put what we learned to work. Thank you
Glad to hear it. I may not have all the answers but hope to help people have a general understanding and gain the confidence to take it from there. People like you and your son I would say are my target audience. Glad it helped.
Hope they help. Ive entertained the idea of a 6x6. I've watched more than one over the years crawl effortlessly over the terrain while out chasing caribou. I haven't worked on one but with the exception of the xtra wheels and the suspension/drive train that goes along with it. It should be pretty much the same otherwise.
Excellent Video, I sunk my bike (1999 Polaris 500, Sportsman) in about 5 foot of water and mud this weekend so I was looking for videos on how to drain all the fluids from my bike. Your videos are the best ones I have come across. Very detailed and the camera work is done well too. Thank you.
Great to hear! Well not that you sunk your bike but .... you know. That it s helping. You got a little work ahead of you it sounds. One thing at a time and before you know it. Hopefully you'll be out and riding again.
Eric, if you are located in or around Fairbanks I think you own the same Polaris 4 wheeler that I bought there in the spring of 2010. I sold it when I was moving to Ft. Benning at the end of May 2013. A June 2013 oil change lines up with the correct time frame. Several things like the headlight case green / black plastic doesn't lock closed, and several physical features I remember looks the same. That was the best 4 wheeler I have ever owned! My friends called it the old tow truck. I pulled several of them with very new 4 wheelers out of the deep woods. If this is the same 4 wheeler, I'm so glad to see it's still being Very well taken care of😁.
I actually bought it from a guy in Paxson. He indicated he had it for a long while. It was missing a pull start handle/rope. And had duct tape over the hole. The AWD didnt work. I believe he did zero maintenance on it. And stored it outdoors or semi covered. But these have a good rep as you mentioned so I was able to get it at a reasonable enough price to bring it back. Its lived up to its rep since. I have had to do a few more things to it but all stuff that you'd potentially have to do to just about anything that old. Stator, CDI, Ignition coil. But currently operational. I dont know if your still in GA but the heat should be letting up about now I suspect.
Super detailed video. Just picked up one of these yesterday and plan to go through it soon. Your video will certainly be referenced. Thanks for sharing!
Best video I found for priming oil system - after clamping that hose, I heard the air after 60 seconds while removing vice grips while it was running and oil level went down a lot so felt very comfortable
If you listen, you can hear his "swoosh" when he removed his clamp as well. It took me a few tries to get the sound, but the manual said if u don't hear it, to repeat until u hear it 😂
Very thorough, great video. Just changed my oil and wish I would have watched this video first! Next year I’ll watch again and do a thorough maintenance go through.
Thanks for the video and the tip on priming the oil pump and lower sump plug with the cup full of oil. We love Alaska and have been there once parts of Alaska are like New Zealand except much bigger. Good luck with your channel I have started my own which will be a retirement hobby for me.
You are most welcome. New Zealand was an almost a few years ago. It may come back around. I'll have to check out your channel. What's the topics covered? For anyone who may read this.
I imagine taking the oil tank apart and cleaning it out is why the oil was slightly low after adding 2 quarts. Good video, I enjoyed seeing the inside of the oil tank. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the detailed explanation of the procedures. I drained the oil from both the crank case and the oil reservoir put the plugs back. I then began to filled the oil reservoir but it wouldn’t take even a full bottle 32 oz of oil? The oil is now at the very top of the oil chute? Could it be because I had already pinched off the top hose? The ATV is raised on car ramps in the front. Maybe that’s it?
It's my understanding that pinching off the hose for priming is really only called for if you disconnect the line(s). But it cant hurt really to go through the priming procedure anyway. It is possible that having it up and pinched may inhibit the flow due to pressure in the system not being able to escape as it fills. Im speculating but that's my thought in regards to your question. Im also thinking by the time I got back to you, you've likely over come the obstacle. Definitely no need or advantage to pinching the line prior to fill that I can think of.
Thanks! I did figure out that my 2007 oil spout is much lower than yours in the video. so I had to put 1 quart in…run the engine for a minute which circulated the oil throughout the crank case, etc. then put the second quart in after that. I also did the pump priming because the did remove and clean the lower hose screen. Thanks again for the video. It was very helpful. I appreciate the detail and simple explanations all the best.!
Just to be sure, because in the end it got confusing, is it the breather hose (the one on the very top that goes under the seat) or the return hose (the one kinda in the middle) that I need to clamp ?
Its the one that comes out the top of the oil reservoir and goes around the front and back to the air filter box. Not the one that has the in line breather filter on it. Its been a while. I believe I trace its route in the video. I took a look and looks like 28:08 in the video to clarify which one.
Thank you! This the info I was searching for! I'm going to look at your Polaris play list because there's a couple other things that I'd like to look at and stay on top of. I just subscribed. Thanks again!
I had thought that I had written to you over a year ago when I was working on a Polaris. This model I have now is a 400 Sportsman. It talked about the slit in the line. I was looking at the wrong line and didn't see at the very top which goes into the headlight assembly. I still can't feel the slit and probably won't...lol As far as the supply hose. I had to cut this one off and still could not bust that bottom fitting lose. So I wasn't able to check the screen. This tank is plastic, so I felt that I may have cracked it if I kept going. I do have those hospital scissors as well. I didn't have any idea of how to clamp that hose down. I usually use some needle nosed vise grips. The service manual also stated that you should hear some air after you release the clamp????
Im actually using a clamp. Looks like scissors but it's called a Kelly clamp or some call it a hemostat. The line with the slit is yes going through the headlamp area. I do show it and trace it in the video as well as demonstrate the slit. Easy to miss if your jumping around a bit like most of us do. And yes you can hear a swoosh sound sometimes upon removing the clamp. That line on mine anyway. Goes from the top of the oil reservoir around the front to the other side and then to the breather box under the seat.
Great vid, should have watched it before, but it turned out all good for me, I'll watch the rest of your videos on the Polaris. Extremely well done and a great source of information 😎👍👍👍 Greetings from sunny South Africa 😁
@@ericinalaska7648 yep we've got a few here, but they're crazy expensive and parts are way out expensive too. Take the USD price x 15 then you get our currency price. No I must thank you for the content. Hitting the sub button now😎👍👍👍
@@mullerandre95 Toys are always expensive. I think here with things sitting in the port of Los Angeles some parts may be unobtainable regardless of the price your willing to pay. But when you get them. There is nothing like doing it yourself. Thanks for the sub.
Both are commonly overlooked or lack of familiarity keeps people from doing it. Myself included. I dove in a few years back to see. And have been doing it ever since. I like many for years, believed from hearing it repeated over and over that there wasn't much oil in the crank case, and was hardly worth addressing. But as you saw. It's more than "not much". Glad you found it helpful. More to come.
Hello again ! I've done my oil change, everything went very well thanks to you. Now I need to know is there any other fluids I need to check on a regular basis ? I know I must change fluid in the front hubs but are there any other than that ?
There are also fluids in the Front crank case, Transmission and if separate from the transmission, rear, and coolant. The ATV in this video the transmission and rear are combined and trans supplies both. Some machines have a separate rear gear case.There are videos for these as well here on the channel.
What do you do when you flush it? And I always say to people regarding other fluid change topics. Even if you don't get it all out. New oil mixed with some old is still better than all old. Or one would think.
@@ericinalaska7648 I've never tried it. I was going to change the oil pour some fresh oil and drain it again to get that last little bit out of the crank case.
@@dylanmccormick2971 Id just pull the plug and drain it personally. Its no harder than draining the reservoir. Its just that most people aren't aware of how much oil that will drain or just simply aren't aware of it. But as long as you don't disconnect the lines it should be the same just drain and fill. And save on the oil expense. Plus I believe that with that plug being the low point in the system yo have a better chance and getting any potential grit or sediment that may accumulate there that flushing may not.
Did you mean you also changed the oil in your four wheeler and its a sportsman also. But when you fill the reservoir it isn't accepting the oil properly? Or are you talking about the fluid in your hubs? You can write in Espan~ol and I can translate if it helps.
Hey bro quick question..when u put the oil reservoir back on ..is the short hose on the bottom or does it go on the top ? Where u screw the 2 rubber hoses back into the bottom of the motor...I took it off and wasn't paying attention..
On Mine they are in this manner. Hose from top of the tank to bottom hole on the "motor". Bottom of tank to top hole on "motor". Don't forget to prime. And also use sealant on bottom tank connection.
Great video You're the only one that actually did it the way the manual shows it to be done but my main question is do I have to prime the oil pump when I drain that extra two cups out of the crankcase?
My understanding is that it's necessary when you disconnect the supply line from the reservoir. Thats the note in the manual I have. It's a great question. Id think the same. It would seem draining the crankcase would potentially drain the pump as well. But I think the concern is when disconnecting the supply line you likely introduce air into the system prior to the pump and that can then when reconnected inhibit flow. Causing basically a blockage. Ot the affect of one. Similar to having air in your cooling system. But again its a pretty simple procedure and I don't think it can hurt anything for peace of mind.
Been running ours for barn hauling and harrow dragging, and it's in for some fluid change. Always nice to see the parts pulled before getting my hands dirty. Already had to tear down the carb and bend the float back into spec (fuel overflowing), so this looks like a piece of cake. Thanks!!!
@@ericinalaska7648 We really gotta give credit to the basic teardown instructionals. If I had to do anything even this simple without a good layout of the systems. This level of basic repair could be pretty hard. The priming of the pump is strange enough, I could see experienced mechanics doing real damage. I think this is probably more dangerous than tearing out the carb for a recalibration. At least with that the systems aren't sensitive to the methods. (the closure of the vent is pretty serious) *Mechanically speaking
Good video. I've changed my oil but never with a camera in my hand. Why would I need to purge? I don't understand. Air gets trapped? I purge an old ford tractor when it runs out of diesel but others fire right up. Any insight would be appreciated.
Thats my understanding. Air getting trapped, some call it vapor lock. Preventing proper circulation. If you disconnect your supply line to the oil pump. Then you need to prime it. Thats not to say you may not get lucky if you don't. But why risk it. Its not needed or suggested per the manual other than for that specific scenario. So if you just remove the plug on the reservoir and change the filter like most do. No need. Its very specific to if you disconnect the line(s). Hope that helps.
I recently purchased a "99 500 Magnum. After using the 4WD I heard a strange noise coming from the front differential. My local dealer suggested to first check/replace the fluid. Looks like a real Pain in the Rear! Finally found the fill plug UNDER a radiator hose that travels across the diff. housing. Does the hose have to be disconnected to make this happen? Thanks for any help/advice you can provide. John in Texas
Well .... Id say if you can get at the plug without removing it then Id have at it. It'll of course be a little messy but I think the alternative will in its own way as well. I can't say Im exactly familiar with that set up. Is it a plug or bolt? Either way. Can you get the appropriate tool on it? And will it be just as easy getting it back in? Thats the thing also to consider. Are you able to force the hose out of the way?
You are so knowledgeable about the 2000 Sportsman 500. I wonder if you could give me some guidance and direction on a problem I have. I dropped a paper cap from a fuel stabilizer into the gas tank by accident. I can't think of any way to get it out. How hard is it to get the gas tank off. Or maybe you have another way to get it out. I feel like I need a trick here. I really don’t want to take the tank off. I have taken the seat off and the side shields. I did watch you video how to remove all of the plastic and I was hoping that I wouldn't have to do all of that.
Tank comes off pretty easy but ..... I have a grabber for such recoveries. About 12-18" long with a spring loaded deal I press with my thumb and the fingers on the other end open and close. But if you don't...... maybe just try to fish it out with a clean stick or screwdriver. Or maybe a pc of tubing. Press it to the bottom with the tubing. Cover the tubing with your finger and see if it causes it to stick? Just things Id try if it were me. Or if it floats. Fill the tank until it floats to the top and grab it.
Hello. My oil reservoir has two breather connections at the top? Do I crimp both off? I only noticed that you used one hemostat tool. Should I not crimp the other? I can't post a picture here but there's definitely more than one.
@@futuregamer5791 I did some searching and the few pics I found, were very limited. Does it have a a black line, and what was once a clear line that has yellowed? The design I have and demonstrate has one vent line that goes to the airbox under the seat. Is that the same with your black line and then the clear/yellowed one goes? To the ground or? Like a fuel or over flow vent? I don't know for sure. Id have to dig more but my instinct is that you'd clamp them both if that's the case. When you clamp the line as I did in the video. Your creating pressure to force oil through the pump and as It warms and expands its intended to fill any voids in the flow by not allowing the pressure created out the vent. Thats my understanding anyway. So I would think you'd clamp both but I would need to reference the manual on that one. I haven't been able to find any reference at this point. See if you can get a manual for that model. They're usually pretty cheap and great to have. Let me/us know if you sort it out. Ill see if I can find anything.
@@ericinalaska7648 So bad news for me. I rebuilt the engine and had it running. I first pinched off both of those oil reservoir breathers and ran it for almost a minute. Then ran it normally and within 2 minutes the engine locked up. Not completely but it's definitely seizing up. I think I'm throwing in the towel on this one and I've decided I won't be purchasing anything else Polaris branded. The engine locked up previous to the rebuild the cam froze to the cylinder head. I tore it completely down and split the case. Replaced water pump assembly, timing chain,piston rings, honed out the cylinder, new cam shaft and cylinder head, rockers, thermostat, gaskets, carburetor, expensive p4 5w50 oil, oil filter, fuel filter, fuel pump. And now that piece of junk locked right back up. I'd never recommend that anyone buys Polaris.
@@futuregamer5791 I can certainly understand your frustration. I haven't ever gone to that extent. I had a similar scenario with a snow machine/mobile. I didn't rebuild the motor but removed it for other repairs and put it back in and learned the hard way about air in the cooling system. Didn't tilt the front up as recommended while filling coolant. Didn't know that was recommended. No TH-cam back then. This was many years ago. We went out riding and that didn't last long. Seized. The reason I share that is to tell you that in that situation and likely in yours I would try to just find a salvage motor. Complete and just swap it. If you do the math its likely less $$$ and time certainly than rebuilding. Definitely deflating after all that work. Silver lining. I bet you can tare one of those apart pretty efficiently now.
Thank you for that. Hopefully that will further emphasize what cannot be emphasized enough. One size does not fit all. Always refer to your year make and models specifications. Thanks for the kind words and feedback.
Thank you for putting this on here!! I'm doing my 450 sportsman now and I've been searching for a video. So far I've seen at least 3 different variations on how to do it plus my service manual and they were all a little different. The first video I saw from the polaris page was that the drain plug was directly underneath the frame and vertical or atleast how it appeared on the video. The next was the same page and it was just the drain plug on the left side and my service manual said nothing about the left side of the quad and only mentioned the drain plug on the right side. So needless to say I was a bit confused. Again Thank you so much.
Yah there are many subtle differences year to year and of course make and model. When you do the trans and front gear case fluids. There is lots of differences there. Especially the front gear case from year to year. As to what fluids to use.
There is one cup of oil left in the bottom of the engine after you drain the tank. That is what the bottom bolt is for. If you drain that or remove the banjo line with the screen on it, you have to prime the oil pump by pinching the oil breather line 2” off of the tank, just before the cutt in the line (3” off tank) you make with a blade. Hemostat the breather hose, run the bike for 30-45sec, shut off, release hemostat and listen for the suction sound. Your pump is primed and the cup of dirty oil everyone leaves in their engine is gone.
Can I take the supply line off the bottom on the back side and clean that just by itself? I want to drain oil, drain the secondary by the trans that is now going to require me to pinch off and prime oil pump and I would like to clean that screen. Thats about as far as I my comfort level is.
Thats really most of it really. You will need to prime if you disconnect the supply line. You should hear kind of a swoosh or kind of like a sucking sound.
I just noticed I just got a big batch of older comments. This one said 1 yr ago.Very weird. And this one is familiar to me but in case Im confusing it with a similar comment. In the event I never got it until now. I will respond (Pos again.) Sounds like you should be fine doing as described.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you look on the frame down some where between the foot rest and front left tire. If you're sitting on it left side. You should be able to find a serial/VIN # stamped on it. From that you should be able to determine the year. part of the # indicates the year. I believe it's the 10th character in a 17 character serial /VIN number if I remember correctly. But its easily googled. You could likely just punch in the VIN # and learn all kinds of things about it. I actually did just that to clarify a few things on this machine before buying it.
One of the most well done amateur videos I've seen on this topic. Love the clear images and stillness of the camera. I've got this 1996 sportsman never changed the oil but I will !🤦 Question: what kind of oil do they recommend in the books we put in there ?
Glad you enjoyed it. PS4 For the oil seems to be pretty common in most it seems. If I had a 1996 that would be my go to likely. I don't have the manual handy at the moment but it may say a specific viscocity that's recommended that you could then substitute.. Sometimes they do. I just don't recall off the top of my head, Ill have to check. I Just don't want to guess and mislead you. If your looking for a cheaper option you can find lots of threads and conversations online covering what others use instead,. You'll just have to use your judgment regarding that. I tend to stay with the PS4.
@@ericinalaska7648 Hello again. Thanks for your answer. I came up on a complete oil change kit on the internet for my model and yes it is polaris ps4 (or any synthetic 5w50 if you want it cheaper). 👍
@@mr.octopus6972 Yes I have read many people using 5w50. And some manuals I have indicate that option. The main reason Id stick with PS4 would be if I had a newer model that was still under warranty. So it wouldn't become void. But other than that. I wouldn't personally loose any sleep on an older machine.
@@mr.octopus6972 Good info. Yes I have read several threads over the years regarding common use of 5w50 and some manuals also suggest it as compatible or as an option for some machines. The main reason I would stick with PS4 would be if I had a newer machine still under warranty. So I wouldn't have any issues with a voided warranty. Unless specified. But on an older machine. I certainly wouldn't loose any sleep over it.
Glad it's of use. Much more to come. Currently converting the low beams to an after market LED option. And then before I put the plastics back on I intend to just kind of go through it and identify and locate parts some may wonder about or aren't sure where to locate or what or where they are. Thanks for the support.
Do you have an anti-drain back on that filter because I couldn't see it at all.... On a horizontal filter like that the oil would drain out and could give you a dry start. If that's the case then using an aftermarket filter could be a huge deal. But using different oil is not a big deal at all.
Its my understanding that that's standard in NAPA Gold (as well as silver and platinum) filters. Here is a link to a video that demonstrates the three better than Id hope to. That addresses it, and compares the three and shows their differences. th-cam.com/video/1B_hWb5mCCg/w-d-xo.html It appears the Silver has a rubber ADBV and the Gold and Platinum are Silicone. Thank you for bringing this up of course. Certainly something for people to consider when considering an after market filter. Ive seen and heard that that feature has been mandated but have also seen and heard people say there not sure that they would say all filters have or are required to have that feature. I can say Ive been using them for years.In fact the only one Ive used other than OME. With no known issues. Several different machines and part #'s. So far so good. Thanks again for that. I think its good info for viewers and readers.
Hey I got a 2011 700 Polaris sportsman and I might have the clear vacuum line hoses mixed up I was wondering if you could do a video on that they're up by the headlight front headlight the solo one
I googled "2011 polaris 700 vacuum hoses" And the results come up with some diagrams/pics. I didn't dig too deep but I think with some refined searches you should be able to come up with a reasonable reference. Im not familiar with that particular model and don't currently have access to one. Shouldn't be too difficult to find what you need though. Hope that helps a little anyway.
Split it then take the supply line off of it and then take that screen out of it and then spray it down on the bike and clean it out just make sure the supply lines taken off of it so you don't end up getting parts cleaner down in the crankcase. From what I'm seeing you can do it that way if you don't want to take that completely off. Would that be correct?
I believe you could but its really easy to take off. And makes all the rest easier to get at. I mainly was demonstrating and showing the parts in detail for those that have never dug in that deep. And to help folks have a better understanding of what's all going on and what's what. If you you disconnect the supply line you'll need to prime the oil pump of course. But as you mentioned. You could split the oil reservoir while still on the machine I would think if you chose.
@@ericinalaska7648 ok I thought it looked like that. I just got a 2000 Polaris sportsman 500 4x4. Doing a bunch of maintenance just wanted to make sure what I needed to do.
@@coachnutt61 Assuming yours is the same and I believe it should be. The top hose/line, the breather line that goes to the air box under the seat/air filter there is a slit maybe an inch back you need to clamp between the slit and reservoir. (Without clamping or crushing the nylon threaded pc at the end of the line that threads into the reservoir.) And after running it and you remove the clamp you should hear like a pressure relief sound. if not repeat. You'll have to watch the video or refer to your manual if you have one. I don't want to try to rattle off all the steps here and miss something. But its really not that complicated. I cover it pretty in depth in the video if you don't have a manual. Hope that helps. If you watch the video in its entirety I think most questions will be answered. I did not cover the relief sound or repeat so be aware of that.
I have a 2002 Polaris sportsman 500. The manual calls for engine oil Polaris Premium 4 Synthetic 0W-40. I noticed that the PS4 is 0W-50. Are you using the PS4 in place of the 0W-40 ?
I have always inquired when getting a new (Old) machine and been handed PS4. The Only Polaris brand 0-W40 Ive seen is usually for snow machines/mobiles. I would imagine the viscosity of 0-W40 would be better for colder weather. I know the PS4 comes in two temp ratings. Colder or hotter temp ranges. But I believe both are 0-W50. Of different formulations. Ill have to double check that now though. All that aside I would use as recommended in the manual. This is a 1999 and when clarifying at the shop. I was told and handed PS4 and that that's what they use all day in just about everything they work on. Meaning if I had them do it. Thats what they'd use. And since Im way out of any warranty concerns. I personally wouldn't loose sleep over it. If you you use other than what's recommended during your warranty period and you have an issue and they test the fluids, and likely would, and find different than what's specified. You're done. But I would imagine outside of that you'd be hard pressed to find many that would validate any fears of using one verses the other. Especially on a 20 year old machine. Clean oil and filter in my opinion even if off brand or similar weight is better than neglected oil of brand name. Im pretty consistent with the products I use though. And do my best to use as recommended. If your book States 0-W40 that's what I would use. Assuming everything else is the same as indicated in the manual. Year, make and model and version etc. Hope that helps.
I was also notified about another comment you had left regarding the crankcase oil/draining. But it may have been deleted because I cant respond to it as if it had been deleted. When I click on it. Did you sort that out or see it in the video and remove? Just wanted to make sure I responded if you had a question regarding that.
@@ericinalaska7648 hi eric. Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for all your wonderful videos. The reply that I quickly deleted was one where I mentioned that I saw in the manual about draining the lower section of the crankcase. But then I realized you had already mentioned that.
Great video. I have a question Eric, I just picked up a 2004 Sportsman 700 EFI and it has been sitting for several years. I am going through all of it and when it comes to changing the oil, I know you should run the engine first. Is it ok for me to just change the oil and filter as it sat for so long, or get everything else done and get the ATV running and then change the oil last?
I cant say Ive NEVER changed oil in something without running it first. But its been a long time. There are a couple good reasons to run it first. For example, you're warming up the oil and that helps it flow/drain better and more completely. The other thought is that by circulating the oil it helps more thoroughly remove any sediment and or sludge or particulates that may have separated or settled over time. While parked. By kind of remixing it all just before draining. So its a better end result assuring you have new clean oil, less likely to be contaminated by old. And the old that would remain if you don't run it first would likely be the worst of the oil you're trying to remove and replace. I would recommend running it first. Especially if its sat a long time. If your too deep in and didn't or couldn't. Its not the end of the world but Id be inspired to schedule my next oil and filter change sooner than usual. Nothing to loose sleep over though. But given the choice. warm it up a bit.
@@ericinalaska7648 Ok thanks for the quick reply. I will plan to change out everything else first and then once I get it running I will replace with oil. Great video!
I have this identical ATV, 1999 Sportsman 500. Your videos have been most helpful to me, thank you for creating them. I am looking for some discussion about the fuel tank. Specifically, inside the tank itself and at the sump area where the fuel heads to the carburetor , there were one or two black tubes, presumably fitted into the "fuel out fittings". These tubes have disintegrated and became floating debris in the tank. While I have removed the debris, I am left wondering if replacing them is necessary, and if so, how to do that. Do the fuel out fittings come off the bottom of the tank and reinstall? The machine still runs fine with these tubes gone, but am I just getting lucky so far? What is their purpose? I do not find them on any parts diagram. Thank you!
I'll do some digging. I personally haven't dealt with that.Ill be with mine in a couple days. But won't be on the computer for a few after that. Gonna chase some fish. When I get back I'll see if I can offer any insight. If you figure it out before. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648 Greetings. Apologies for the long absence. This ATV lives at a friend's house in another state and I only recently made the journey back to see it after a long summer of busy. I have an update here and I misunderstood what I was seeing. If you look into the gas tank from the filler cap, there are two ports present. The left port has a "straw" tube the reaches up about 2-3". The port on the right has no tube. From a gas tank parts diagram for this machine, the left port is the main tank and the right port is the reserve tank. What I thought was a disintegrating tube turns out to be a pencil shaped screen and it was quite hard to get that out of the tank. Additionally, there was some small, wire shaped debris in the tank that was colored red. I mention this only in that it is not clear to me if this is a disintegrating part of some kind or just foreign debris. Also, the reserve tank will not pump gas to the engine so this port is obviously clogged. I am presuming this...the straw on the main part of the tank is taking in fuel from above the sump area. When switching to RES on the fuel switch, the fuel must come from the port on the right and that screen must be involved in some way to keep sediment out of the system. However, I find no reference to this screen on the parts diagrams. I have pictures of the ports inside the tank and the screen if you are curious. I didn't see a video for taking the gas tank off the fuel fittings to clean things, but that is where I am headed next. That screen probably fits into the right port itself. If you have any feedback or advice from your experience in taking the fuel tank apart, it is appreciated. The wheeler has been winterized and I likely won't get back to it until next spring since it lives now in snow country, but I don't. Thanks.
@@BigRedDg Hey Andrew. Same with mine. Away and away from me for the winter. But I still have a few resources handy. My understanding of the tubes is similar to yours. My first thought is what caused them to disintegrate. Im only guessing but I suspect ethanol gas possibly. Older equip and small engine stuff such as lawn mowers and chainsaws don't like it. The parts don't hold up to it well and when it was first introduced it caused headaches for many. And from my understanding parts had to be reengineered to accommodate it. Just a thought. The tubes as you suggested are one for your main fuel and one for your reserve. When in tact. One is taller with a screen filter on it. and the shorter one is the reserve. So once the fuel gets low enough or below the screen it starves for fuel. Then you switch to reserve and it will run until getting to or below that one. It looks like you'd have to remove the tank and then the connector off the bottom of the tank. If you take your plastics off it looks pretty intuitive. Id clamp off the hose or fuel line coming out and if there is enough slack tilt it over to empty what fuel you can into a drain pan or something. Then pop that connector out. Looks like a cast part with a couple screws probably and I would imagine a gasket. Yours may be plastic. Id replace the gasket since its off. If fuel or whatever, time, disintegrated the tubes it's likely working on that too. Maybe not. Im not sure you have a gasket on yours but I would think. Once out. Replace the tubes assuming that's your intent.. Then it all works as it should. And reverse the steps. Clean the tank out as best you can of course prior to reinstall. Id say the best time ever in your whole life would be now prior to starting to replace the inline fuel filter. They're like $3. And maybe even force flush the fuel line. You could also disconnect the pump and flush that out a bit as well if you want to get that crazy about it. Short answer. If it runs and your fine as is. Probably no harm other than no reserve it sounds. And pos debris circulating in the system. Hope that helps. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648 Eric, I appreciate your reply. I understand your comments here and the next step really is to dig in and take the tank off and get into these two valves. I found some pictures of these valves online and the screen I found floating clearly belongs to these valves. I may just replace the valves themselves as the screen looks to be fastened to the inlet and if I am going to the effort of taking this all apart, I would prefer a fresh affix to the assembly. Better to do that than just jam it back in place and find it loose again in the future. I keep spare inline filters handy and have replaced it recently. Likely when I take it all apart, something will shake loose and plug it again. Since the wheeler is down for the winter, I will likely not get this done until next May. I will update you when all that gets done. Again, thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
@@BigRedDg Sure thing. Seems like a pretty simple solution. Time consuming of course but not too complicated. If you think of it that far down the road. Feel free to check back in and share any lessons learned. Some people watch some read comments. Whatever works. Its all helpful.Enjoy the winter. Until next May.
I just purchased a 2003 sportsman 500 ho. Unfortunately it didn't come with the owners manual or service manual. If I'm doing the basic oil change of draining the oil tank and engine block. Do I still need to prime the oil pump if I didn't remove any oils lines? I just need the extra clarification.
I have never primed after a simple oil change. My understanding is if you didn't disconnect the lines you don't need to prime. If all you did is drain and refill and change the filter. I haven't seen anything to the contrary. I just checked a 2002 manual. I Don't have a 2003. But if your still concerned or uneasy I can't see any harm in doing it if you choose.
You sir are absolutely correct. Thank you for adding that. The note I read from the service manual was in the oil change part. But looking further into the pump priming specifically it does say " If the line is bled properly you should hear air release, If you do not hear air the line is not bled. Repeat." Helpful comment thank you.
@@ericinalaska7648 very good video. I just thought maybe to have added that in for you to help save any misunderstandings others may have. Thank you for sharing a great video.
@Topdog Mechanic Will do. Check out the other stuff as well if you haven't already. I may deviate from the polaris topic at times but Ill always return.
Is it a "Big Boss" Even if not. Check out this link to an owners manual I found. It's the best thing I could find. Everything else seems to be regarding Rangers. cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9922807r01.pdf
The breather hose that goes from the top/back of the reservoir to the filter compartment under your seat. You clamp it between the reservoir and the slit. (See video). I can't say for sure without confirming regarding the Ranger. Likely similar enough though. If you understand the goal you'd probably just apply the same process I would think. But Id dig a bit of course before saying with full confidence.
I have a brake question if you could help. 1999 sportsman 500. The foot brake and hand brake like to play ‘teter-totter’ and requires I pull the hand brake while I push the foot brake. And I can feel the pressure from the foot brake on the hand brake when I press it? It’s like a one way valve somewhere isn’t working. Ideas?
Do the brakes still work though? Or seem weak? My initial response would be. It shouldn't be doing that. And my instinct would be to investigate the hand brake and how that master cylinder (The brake fluid reservoir) is functioning separately as well as the one for the foot pedal. But yah. the pressure that is produced or built up by squeezing the hand brake or stepping on the foot brake should be activating your brake pads/shoes. Not transferring to the pedal or hand brake opposite of which ever one you're using. I don't have access at the moment but I suspect and seem to think that if I squeeze the hand brake on mine and others Ive had that the other (foot pedal) would become slack. I won't swear to it at this point with out access to verify. But that would be my expectation. Id first check all my fluid levels. Check for leaks. Bleed the lines. And if it persists Id isolate and check each individually to try to determine the issue. And also if you haven't already watched it. This one may be of some help. th-cam.com/video/RlUSYCLmbbE/w-d-xo.html
@@ericinalaska7648 so I replaced the foot pedal master cyl. I used a $25 generic wildwood part that is exact part. (Saved $100 from dealership) I bled all corners and still have the issue. I guess is the rear caliper is the problem. For now I have the rear brake pedal locked in the down position and everything works fine. When I squeeze the hand brake it will actually overflow the little fluid resivour under the seat connected to rear foot brake. Once foot brake is applied no more back flow. Ill report back once I also replace the rear caliper.
I found on another forum the exact same symptoms I’m having- the rear brake caliper has a problem with the seals. I’ve got a seal kit on order from eBay so I’ll tear it apart and rebuild.
@@Upliftyourbrothers I haven't had to do that but it looks pretty straight forward in the manual. How do your pads look while you're at it? They're pretty cheap.
Yes. You should hear like a swoosh or maybe a faint sucking sound. If not just repeat. Its not always loud or obvious as you'd want. If you don't hear anything convincing. Repeat. No harm will come from repeating the same steps over.
This is why you read the owners manual, I’ve done countless oil changes when I’ve removed the screen to clean, or remove the crankcase drain and have never primed the oil pump!! My 01 is running strong even with an owner who doesn’t read! Lol.
Yep. Ive learned much from them over the years. We all get info different ways though. And this is certainly one of the ways. On the TH-cams. Ive heard many over the years, say they don't mess with draining "that little bit" out of the crankcase because priming is perceived to be a process. As you saw. There is more than a little oil in the crankcase. And the priming is no big adventure. Glad it was of help. Thats the goal really. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 Eric, out of curiosity I checked my owners manual to see what other steps I might have missed, and it states “Start engine and let it idle for one to two minutes. Stop engine and check for leaks.” It doesn’t mention the oil pump priming which I find odd as the engine and oil system look identical between your ‘99 and my ‘01! Lol
@@HOBrian2003 The priming note addresses only if you disconnect the supply lines. (The line with the screen for example.) Other than that. Yes You just need to start and run for a couple minutes and check level and for leaks. The priming is all about the supply lines. My manual says the same with an added note about priming if you disconnect the line(s). I think I babbled about that a little in the video. Id have to rewatch it though.
There is. If you look to the right of the fuel shut off/reserve knob there just above the primary clutch. You'll see two white inline filters. One is the fuel filter. White and red on one end. The smaller one. And one is an inline breather filter. From the airbox. At least on mine the one in the video. I don't know for sure if the fuel filter was factory or an after market install before I got it but I believe it was factory. Hope that helps. I will be making a video going through many of the parts and pointing things out and briefly describing there function soon.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you. I look forward to your video describing these things. I have the identical ATV and it has been sturdy and reliable. Sadly, It has been sitting for a few years other than a start and warm up for about 20 minutes every 90 or so days. I am getting it back into shape now to get back into the wilderness. Your videos on this machine are proving quite valuable.
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Glad to help. Also I should have mentioned the obvious. If you have any question regarding the oil level. Always check the dipstick. After filling and after running and after riding a bit to be sure. Cant go wrong.
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Thats my understanding. Unless you disconnect the line to the oil pump. Im thinking that would introduce air into the pump or along the way and possibly prevent proper flow. Which is why you would prime the oil pump in that case. Otherwise enough oil must remain Im guessing even when emptying the crank case to prevent that and allow proper flow. But again always check your fluid level. And of course monitor temp gauge etc. I always say there is certainly no harm in priming the oil pump if in doubt. Just not a necessary step per the manual unless you disconnect the line to the oil pump.
Super vidéo merci ! J'avais vu une autre vidéo ou le gars vidange aussi le carter mais il ne parle pas de la pompe a huile, alors je me demandais "mais comment se remplis a nouveau le carter", grâce à toi et la procédure de la pompe a huile maintenant je sais, super, merci
De rien. Je suis content que cela ait été utile. J'ai discuté avec d'autres dans d'autres commentaires et questions également. Et je ne pense pas l'avoir mentionné dans la vidéo. Le manuel explique plus en détail dans une autre section à laquelle je faisais référence au moment de l'enregistrement. Cela si vous n'entendez pas de swoosh ou de son de décompression lors du desserrage de la ligne. Répéter. Merci encore et je suis heureux que vous ayez trouvé cela utile.
Sorry if I don't know the lingo lol. My friend has I believe a 2002 Sportsman 500 Ducks Unlimited version and it is leaking from the hose that connects to the piece above the oil cap, is that like a distributor for the antifreeze or is that like a fuel pump? Its a very slow leak that looks like antifreeze bc its green. It's the top hose, and when I follow yours, its looks like its twisted. What's that hose called when looking it up? I tried under cooling system, but it only shows the reservoir underneath it. Thanks so much! =)
Are you talking about the unit above the oil cap and above your fuel switch? (The on off or reserve switch) Aluminum casting I guess you could say 6 sided. With hoses to it? If so that's your fuel pump.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yeah that piece with the 3 hoses I believe. The top hose seemed to have formed a little leak that looks green, Is that even possible if its antifreeze? Or should I be looking somewhere else? It was minus 11 degrees Fahrenheit so I didn't go to in depth haha.
@@MrLegendL2118 Its actually to the left of the on off switch I think I said above. The only lines I have to mine from bottom to top are fuel. From the tank, (Fuel inlet)To/from the switch, and to the carb (Fuel outlet). Is that the color (green) of the antifreeze in the machine? That'd be a quick mystery to solve. My hose from the radiator hangs below the level of that pump. Should be No other liquid going to the pump that I''m aware of. And maybe if its running you can locate an active leak some where. Maybe when its a little warmer out though huh?
My understanding from the manual is that it's required when disconnecting the supply line from the back of the reservoir. But if you're concerned, I see no harm in doing it anyway. In the video I hade completely removed the reservoir disconnecting the supply and return line. And do cover as much as possible and because I disconnected I covered priming as well.
Usually approx 4oz. I believe I babbled about it in the "Polaris Sportsman 500 (And Similar) Front Gear Case and Transmission Fluid change" video. Heres the link if you haven't already discovered it. th-cam.com/video/lYFMaltHP28/w-d-xo.html I also checked a manual I had handy at the moment for 2002. Says 4oz. Hope that helps.
did a car oil change on my 2007 500efi sportsman x2 castrol5-40 and was told that car oil does not have enough detergent to be proper and a couple of other additves in atv etcwhich is not hard service like in high rpm atv utv machines so foaming and smell of oil breakdown may have been formed from overheating.
Yah Ive found lots of threads over the years about many equivalents available that have been used. Im sure there are some that are just fine. But I would think under warranty anyway, most wouldn't substitute. I know many do otherwise though and Ive read a bunch that have with no known issues. Sounds like warranty is not an issue for you though likely with a 2007? In the past Ive tried to find an equivalent substitute. It was findable but not abundantly available and the price difference wasn't much of a savings. Being such a low stock item. And short of a catastrophic break down it may be hard to really tell if an equivalent or other may be accelerating damage or ware. It,s all open for discussion of course. You can certainly argue that the wrong oil is likely better than no oil. I guess my logic sometimes, not always, but I guess on this topic, Im gonna control the things I can and use what's recommended. Then at least if I have an issue that's oil related, I know I didn't cause or contribute to it. But if my buddy poured a random in out on the trail. Id be curious to see how it looks coming out and or how long he's been using it and observe. Id be interested in any info you can share from your experiment. Im certainly not gonna tell anyone what to do or not on the topic just share what I do and why. Theres always work to do to maintain toys and if I can minimize or eliminate one variable for a few more bucks that may save me many more bucks down the road...... Thats where my heads at. Ive heard many valid philosophies on oil through out my life. From people who know far more than I. But I always seem to settle back into the what does the book say to use mind set. Not sure if you were looking for all that but ...... that's my 2 cents if it helps you sort it out.
If you are watching my or anyones videos and you click on the name of the channel in my case "Eric In Alaska" it takes you to the channel and you can browse all the videos on that channel. But here is the link for that particular video. th-cam.com/video/FRiehel5EJ8/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
If you drain the oil from the crank case and the tank do you have to prime the pump ? I’ve got them both emptied and the oil smelled of fuel as well so I’m thinking the float got stuck as well ?
The manual indicates to prime if and when removing the supply line (s). Specifically. For this make and model. If you have a different make and model Id hate to mislead without checking a manual. As far as the fuel smell in the oil? There seems to be many opinions on that. Some say stuck needle valve in the carb may allow gas to continue to leak adding fuel to the crank case. Some say they smelled new Polaris oil before putting it in and it smells that way before use. Ill have to check on that one next time. Ive never noticed. Some say always turn off your gas when parking or storing your machine. Others, mechanics, say that's normal that they smell it all day while others indicate worse issues but many dispute. Its really hard to say sight unseen. But for the heck of it if you haven't already. Smell your new oil for comparison. I realize I really didn't solve the mystery and probably left you with more questions than the one you asked. Thats an issue Id need to troubleshoot a bit if I had it. Another thing to watch of course would be your fluid (oil) level. Obviously if your level goes up noticeably and you smell gas in it. You should dig into it to resolve the cause.
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you for such a quick response! I’m working on this quad for my boss .. i do know the quad had sat outside for quiet some time , I do know that this is a magnum but unsure if it is the exact same model as yours , they do look extremely similar. I have found the model number on the block , but haven’t tried to google cross reference it . But I’m waiting on the new oil to arrive ,(Amazon) I will definitely be smelling it . Would the pump pick up the oil after a few seconds even if you didn’t prime it ? Or would you think it would burn the pump up before it caught back up .
what is the length of those sleeves between the back of the fuel tank mount and frame, and what is the size and length of the bolts mine is missing both
Im trying to picture what part you're referring to. I'm away from the wheeler at the moment for a bit. Do you mean the side pieces below the tank or? The front pc. Fenders and fuel tank plastic is one pc. And then the seat buts up against the tank. Im sure I can clarify the size but Im just not clear from the description. I have another video regarding taking the plastics off. I don't talk about the specs of the bolts but maybe you can tell me the part maybe as I point to it in the video? 1999 Sportsman 500. Removing all the plastics in about 10 minutes. th-cam.com/video/FRiehel5EJ8/w-d-xo.html
@@ericinalaska7648 at the back of the fuel tank closes to the seat there are bolts on either side of the fuel tank that fasten the back of the fuel tank to the frame imgur.com/2C0dBzi
Does it start though? If it's a new noise, you're not use to hearing. Thats an indicator I would be suspicious of. If testing it is not in your wheel house, Id think if you stopped at a shop Im sure they could or would for you. Or at minimum give you an opinion about the noise. Assuming it does it again while you're there. We all know how that works of course. It could be a few things and not knowing your machine or hearing the noise. All I can do is speculate. Could be the Spindle/shaft on the starter damaged, Or Gear/fly wheel damaged. If you remove the starter. You would be able the evaluate the splined shaft on the starter for any damage. And also test or have it tested real easy bringing it to a shop or probably most parts stores. Hope that's of some help.
There are many choices and prices. Assuming you have the same year and model. This is the air filter I ordered from Amazon.. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WJJLM56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This a compatible pre filter screen also avail on Amazon. I already had one though. www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Compatible-Sportsman-Trail-Blazer-Trail-Boss/dp/B08PCSPHFS/ref=psdc_404753011_t3_B07WJJLM56 These links should get you there. And you can compare. Hope that helps.
Welcome to the channel. If you haven't found it already. Here is a link to a video I did regarding the speedo for 96 to 99. th-cam.com/video/ADNyJ5sx83oI/w-d-xo.html have not personally had any issues with a 2003 or more specifically Ive owned a 02 but have not encountered any issues. But maybe the video will shed some light on some similarities or comparisons. What issues are you having?
@@ericinalaska7648 so I bought this machine about 3 weeks ago, it is in phenomenal shape, the speedometer is not working so in turn the 4x4 won't work because it's linked through the speedometer, I don't really want to bypass it if I don't have to
@@dkproconst.4402 That the same case as the speedo I repair in the video I sent the link for. AWD would not work. Common issue the one I repaired is solder failure and I had a loose resistor floating around in there as a result. Repaired and for now all is well. I anticipate a potential repeat down the road. I opted to take a shot at that due to the price of a replacement.
Absolutely, that's what I'm looking to do is repair mine, I pulled mine apart and everything is in tact, so I'll have to test some transistors and such
Just a quick question I followed this video but when I came to priming I forgot to tighten up the two hose clamps that go to the engine ( feed and supply lines) I had the hoses hooked up but forgot to tighten the hose clamps. Do you think this would have sucked any air in? I ran the engine like this for a minute. I then realised I hadn’t tightened them hose clamps up so I primed again. I still didn’t hear any rush of air like the manual says you would when priming. I’m just concerned do you think within the one minute of the two hose clamps not being done up ruined anything ? Thanks again for your great detailed videos you go to allot of trouble subscribed.
@@cruza1289 Repeating the priming certainly can't hurt. I wouldn't loose too much sleep over having caused damage. One minute shouldn't do anything devastating. If you were out riding and thought oh no those are still loose and your temp gage came on then Id be concerned. Just repeat the steps as described in the manual. You should get the results you need. And carry on. Im not an expert on it but I would think if you did anything as a result the ware you put on the engine in a minute couldn't be any worse than a cold start is on a machine that's been sitting. Thats also I would think why the formula to the priming steps are written as they are. To protect from damage if anything isn't quite happy. Just a thought. if that gives you piece of mind.
Just updated: I used my scissors as you had done and since my plastics are on, I was able to clamp it on the fuel side close to the tank and after letting it run for 24 seconds. I had unclamped the hose and was able to hear a big rush of vacuum. I now feel better to start the ATV up without having to worry. Thanks again for your video.
Sounds like your on the right track. If you ever do it and don't hear the woosh. Simply repeat. No harm.
Thank you for your videos I’m 24 never worked on my sportsman before and this was a big help made the task a lot easier to see someone do it before hand.
Glad it/they helped. Thats the goal. Keep at it. It gets easier each time and you'll find its really not that much of an ordeal once you get familiar and proficient at it.
Man huge thanks for all the videos you've put together on the Sportsman 500. They have helped immensely in the maintenance and fixing of several (almost all) issues that I'm having with the same machine. Seriously I'd buy you many drinks for all the help you've provided. Your videos are very detailed and easy to follow. much appreciated!!! Thanks again! - Dan in Montana
Great to hear. Always a good feeling when intentions are realized. I actually just posted a few new ones. Starter on a RZR 800 and the CDI box and ignition coil on the 1999 sportsman 500. More to come. Thanks for the feedback.
Your videos are by far the best I’ve seen so far. I appreciate a little longer format and explanation. I have a 2003 Polaris sportsman 400 I got from a family member. I’ll be going through your playlists! Thanks again! Great video!
Thank you. Glad you've found them helpful. Some like a 10 second solution to the worlds problems and some times that's appropriate and all it takes. But I find that approach, on some of the stuff Ive covered can leave more questions than answers. My intention is to try to answer or clarify things that Id have question about if it was new to me and hopefully leave a viewer feeling confident they can do it themself. And understand how and why. And When that happens for a viewer. It's all I could hope for, all worth it. Thanks again.
Please keep up with the sportsman videos! I just purchased a 2000 sportsman and the detailed videos are very nice to see
Glad you like them. Im assuming you've seen the other stuff on the channel. I do occasionally subject hop a bit but will always do more Sportsman and like videos. So if you see me go off topic. Doesn't mean Im done with those. Ill always do them as projects present themselves. If you haven't subscribed feel free. It's free. And you'll be notified when there is a video posted.
I have a 2002 sportsman, I totally agree with you
I watched this about a year ago because I knew I wanted one of these. Just got one today and can’t wait to go through it thoroughly with help from this video. Thank you for taking the time to make such a detailed video!
Well thanks. Glad it made enough of an impression to come back to it a year later. I am currently in the process of making a few more. Changing the starter switch, Stator, Ignition coil, and CDI box. If you have any interest in those check back. And of course all the other stuff that's already there. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 I subscribed and will definitely be looking for those!
I'll be keeping an eye on this channel. I just acquired a 1997 Sportsman 500 from my neighbor that has been sitting out in the woods for about 5 years for free. He was going to scrap it. Literally everything needs to be gone over and restored or replaced. Your videos will help tremendously. It'll be a project I'll work on over the next year or so. Keep the videos coming and Thank you.
Will do. I will stray from the topic from time to time of course but will always land back on repair stuff. Thanks for the support. And good luck with the project.
I've got a 98 Sportsman 500 that has been sitting for a few years. This series is a great resource. Thanks a lot.
Fantastic. Hope it helps get you through it and it ends in success. More to come.
Fantastic. I got a '99 Sportsman that sat for 6 years, needs *a lot* of love, all the details for a full lube, oil, filter job in one place is nice.
Good to hear. If you haven't discovered already, there are a few other videos as well on the channel and more to come. The machine has been out of reach this winter but I plan to cover more topics when the opportunity arrises.
@@ericinalaska7648 I have, and thank you. I have already discovered the crime against wiring via rodents in the headlight shroud, and under the front cover, and someones attempt to "repair" the magnetic hub locks, so I've got my work cut out for me, thank you making these, you are my Sportsman repair info go-to.
@@jamesgeorge4874 Well thank you as well. If you have any questions feel free. I certainly don't know everything but will do my best to help if I can.
Great video and attention to detail. Picked up a 2010 Sportsman 500 a couple of months ago. Replacing rear axles and full service. This video really helps.
Glad it helped. I had made an axle replacement video a while back and misplaced the footage along the way or accidentally erased or something of the sort. If you haven't done it before its a relatively simple job. Everything takes time of course. But not too bad. Good luck on your project. More to come.
Thanks for this video, the best one I have seen on this subject.
Glad it was helpful. I take that as a pretty generous compliment.
Great video. Newbie owner of a 2002 500 HO. Seeing the plastic off when working is very educational. Looking forward to seeing more of your vids. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Lots of other Polaris videos on the playlist on the channel if you haven't seen that already, and More to come. Also a bunch of other topics I deviate to occasionally. Glad you found it helpful.
Thank you sir,stay warm. The 4x4 world is all new to me, fixing this one up for my grandson.
They're pretty simple in the big picture. If your mechanically inclined and you take the time to familiarize your self a bit. And there are lots and lots of resources available these days. If you ever have any questions feel free to reach out. Im not saying I'll have the answer but I'll do my best. Good luck.
Great job on the video. I just purchased a 1995 magnum 425 for my son. We watched your video together and now going to put what we learned to work. Thank you
Glad to hear it. I may not have all the answers but hope to help people have a general understanding and gain the confidence to take it from there. People like you and your son I would say are my target audience. Glad it helped.
Thanks! I live in palmer AK and just bought a 6x6. I'm a decent mechanic but have never worked on a polaris so I will be watching your vids
Hope they help. Ive entertained the idea of a 6x6. I've watched more than one over the years crawl effortlessly over the terrain while out chasing caribou. I haven't worked on one but with the exception of the xtra wheels and the suspension/drive train that goes along with it. It should be pretty much the same otherwise.
Man thank you I just got an old Polaris that I needed help with
Hope it helped. Lots of other videos on the channel as well if you haven't stumbled upon them already. Polaris related and other.
Excellent Video, I sunk my bike (1999 Polaris 500, Sportsman) in about 5 foot of water and mud this weekend so I was looking for videos on how to drain all the fluids from my bike. Your videos are the best ones I have come across. Very detailed and the camera work is done well too.
Thank you.
Great to hear! Well not that you sunk your bike but .... you know. That it s helping. You got a little work ahead of you it sounds. One thing at a time and before you know it. Hopefully you'll be out and riding again.
Eric, if you are located in or around Fairbanks I think you own the same Polaris 4 wheeler that I bought there in the spring of 2010. I sold it when I was moving to Ft. Benning at the end of May 2013. A June 2013 oil change lines up with the correct time frame. Several things like the headlight case green / black plastic doesn't lock closed, and several physical features I remember looks the same. That was the best 4 wheeler I have ever owned! My friends called it the old tow truck. I pulled several of them with very new 4 wheelers out of the deep woods. If this is the same 4 wheeler, I'm so glad to see it's still being Very well taken care of😁.
I actually bought it from a guy in Paxson. He indicated he had it for a long while. It was missing a pull start handle/rope. And had duct tape over the hole. The AWD didnt work. I believe he did zero maintenance on it. And stored it outdoors or semi covered. But these have a good rep as you mentioned so I was able to get it at a reasonable enough price to bring it back. Its lived up to its rep since. I have had to do a few more things to it but all stuff that you'd potentially have to do to just about anything that old. Stator, CDI, Ignition coil. But currently operational. I dont know if your still in GA but the heat should be letting up about now I suspect.
Super detailed video. Just picked up one of these yesterday and plan to go through it soon. Your video will certainly be referenced. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Best video I found for priming oil system - after clamping that hose, I heard the air after 60 seconds while removing vice grips while it was running and oil level went down a lot so felt very comfortable
Thank you and Glad it helped. Appreciate the feedback.
If you listen, you can hear his "swoosh" when he removed his clamp as well. It took me a few tries to get the sound, but the manual said if u don't hear it, to repeat until u hear it 😂
Really enjoyed the video. Keep doing the Deep Dives I love to see EVERYTHING!
Thank you. More to come!
Very thorough, great video. Just changed my oil and wish I would have watched this video first! Next year I’ll watch again and do a thorough maintenance go through.
Appreciate the feed back. More to come.
Thanks for the video and the tip on priming the oil pump and lower sump plug with the cup full of oil. We love Alaska and have been there once parts of Alaska are like New Zealand except much bigger. Good luck with your channel I have started my own which will be a retirement hobby for me.
You are most welcome. New Zealand was an almost a few years ago. It may come back around. I'll have to check out your channel. What's the topics covered? For anyone who may read this.
@@ericinalaska7648 RV travels ,fishing ,4WD trips ,and the occasional cruise ship adventures
Good video. You apologized for it being a bit long, but actually all the information was pertinent.
Thank you. Thats always the goal. More to come.
Very methodical video, thank you. I just picked up a 96 Sportsman 500 and this helped me a great deal. Subscribed!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great information sir, I really appreciate you taking the time to cover small details.
My pleasure. Hope it helps clarify some of the mysteries.
Great video! You’ve helped and keep helping me with my Polaris! Thanks!
Well, mission accomplished then. Glad to hear it.
Just bought a 1996 Sportsman 500, thank you for this video!
Yes sir. Hope they help. More to come.
Thanks for the video, we couldn't find the lipstick and didn't think to check under the fender!
There has to be more to that story. But I won't put you through it. Wait ....... Did you mean dipstick? Bet you did.
I imagine taking the oil tank apart and cleaning it out is why the oil was slightly low after adding 2 quarts. Good video, I enjoyed seeing the inside of the oil tank. Thanks for sharing.
Yah not something I or most would commonly do so I figured it was worth sharing. Glad you found it of use. And thanks for all the feedback.
Thank you for the detailed explanation of the procedures. I drained the oil from both the crank case and the oil reservoir put the plugs back. I then began to filled the oil reservoir but it wouldn’t take even a full bottle 32 oz of oil? The oil is now at the very top of the oil chute? Could it be because I had already pinched off the top hose? The ATV is raised on car ramps in the front. Maybe that’s it?
It's my understanding that pinching off the hose for priming is really only called for if you disconnect the line(s). But it cant hurt really to go through the priming procedure anyway. It is possible that having it up and pinched may inhibit the flow due to pressure in the system not being able to escape as it fills. Im speculating but that's my thought in regards to your question. Im also thinking by the time I got back to you, you've likely over come the obstacle. Definitely no need or advantage to pinching the line prior to fill that I can think of.
Thanks! I did figure out that my 2007 oil spout is much lower than yours in the video. so I had to put 1 quart in…run the engine for a minute which circulated the oil throughout the crank case, etc. then put the second quart in after that. I also did the pump priming because the did remove and clean the lower hose screen. Thanks again for the video. It was very helpful. I appreciate the detail and simple explanations all the best.!
@@Jdeneik Good deal. Carry on then I guess.
Just to be sure, because in the end it got confusing, is it the breather hose (the one on the very top that goes under the seat) or the return hose (the one kinda in the middle) that I need to clamp ?
Its the one that comes out the top of the oil reservoir and goes around the front and back to the air filter box. Not the one that has the in line breather filter on it. Its been a while. I believe I trace its route in the video. I took a look and looks like 28:08 in the video to clarify which one.
Thank you! This the info I was searching for! I'm going to look at your Polaris play list because there's a couple other things that I'd like to look at and stay on top of. I just subscribed. Thanks again!
Thank you as well. Glad it was helpful.
I had thought that I had written to you over a year ago when I was working on a Polaris. This model I have now is a 400 Sportsman. It talked about the slit in the line. I was looking at the wrong line and didn't see at the very top which goes into the headlight assembly. I still can't feel the slit and probably won't...lol As far as the supply hose. I had to cut this one off and still could not bust that bottom fitting lose. So I wasn't able to check the screen. This tank is plastic, so I felt that I may have cracked it if I kept going. I do have those hospital scissors as well. I didn't have any idea of how to clamp that hose down. I usually use some needle nosed vise grips. The service manual also stated that you should hear some air after you release the clamp????
Im actually using a clamp. Looks like scissors but it's called a Kelly clamp or some call it a hemostat. The line with the slit is yes going through the headlamp area. I do show it and trace it in the video as well as demonstrate the slit. Easy to miss if your jumping around a bit like most of us do. And yes you can hear a swoosh sound sometimes upon removing the clamp. That line on mine anyway. Goes from the top of the oil reservoir around the front to the other side and then to the breather box under the seat.
Great vid, should have watched it before, but it turned out all good for me, I'll watch the rest of your videos on the Polaris. Extremely well done and a great source of information 😎👍👍👍
Greetings from sunny South Africa 😁
South Africa. Nice. Wasn't sure Polaris had a market there. Good to know. Thanks for the kind words.
@@ericinalaska7648 yep we've got a few here, but they're crazy expensive and parts are way out expensive too. Take the USD price x 15 then you get our currency price.
No I must thank you for the content. Hitting the sub button now😎👍👍👍
@@mullerandre95 Toys are always expensive. I think here with things sitting in the port of Los Angeles some parts may be unobtainable regardless of the price your willing to pay. But when you get them. There is nothing like doing it yourself. Thanks for the sub.
great video...i did not know about the krank case oil plug..and i did not know about the priming that should be done...thank you.
Both are commonly overlooked or lack of familiarity keeps people from doing it. Myself included. I dove in a few years back to see. And have been doing it ever since. I like many for years, believed from hearing it repeated over and over that there wasn't much oil in the crank case, and was hardly worth addressing. But as you saw. It's more than "not much". Glad you found it helpful. More to come.
A Most excellent video. I'm glad I came on to your video. I would not have known any of that
Glad to hear it. Thanks. Glad it was worthy of your time. And you found it helpful.
I don't even have a sportsman but thanks for making this video it's a great very informative vid.
Well, thank you. Appreciate the feedback.
Dude, I just bought a 1999 in Fairbanks. ❤ And subbed.
Well there you go. Thanks.
Hello again !
I've done my oil change, everything went very well thanks to you.
Now I need to know is there any other fluids I need to check on a regular basis ?
I know I must change fluid in the front hubs but are there any other than that ?
There are also fluids in the Front crank case, Transmission and if separate from the transmission, rear, and coolant. The ATV in this video the transmission and rear are combined and trans supplies both. Some machines have a separate rear gear case.There are videos for these as well here on the channel.
Thanks Eric for the info. I don't think I'm not going to do that last part. I'm going to try and flush it. Seems like it would help?
What do you do when you flush it? And I always say to people regarding other fluid change topics. Even if you don't get it all out. New oil mixed with some old is still better than all old. Or one would think.
@@ericinalaska7648 I've never tried it. I was going to change the oil pour some fresh oil and drain it again to get that last little bit out of the crank case.
@@dylanmccormick2971 Id just pull the plug and drain it personally. Its no harder than draining the reservoir. Its just that most people aren't aware of how much oil that will drain or just simply aren't aware of it. But as long as you don't disconnect the lines it should be the same just drain and fill. And save on the oil expense. Plus I believe that with that plug being the low point in the system yo have a better chance and getting any potential grit or sediment that may accumulate there that flushing may not.
Excellent video, I'm going to do this to my daughters 500 today. Thanks a lot
Thank you. Good luck.
good video friend. a question I also changed the oil Ami four wheels is also Polaris spormants but the oil does not go down to the sump.
Did you mean you also changed the oil in your four wheeler and its a sportsman also. But when you fill the reservoir it isn't accepting the oil properly? Or are you talking about the fluid in your hubs? You can write in Espan~ol and I can translate if it helps.
Hey bro quick question..when u put the oil reservoir back on ..is the short hose on the bottom or does it go on the top ? Where u screw the 2 rubber hoses back into the bottom of the motor...I took it off and wasn't paying attention..
On Mine they are in this manner. Hose from top of the tank to bottom hole on the "motor". Bottom of tank to top hole on "motor". Don't forget to prime. And also use sealant on bottom tank connection.
Ok perfect...thank you
I've got a 2000 scrambler 500 and couldn't find the drain plug for the crankcase nor did I know how to prime it so thankyou so much for this video
Good deal. Mission accomplished.
Great video You're the only one that actually did it the way the manual shows it to be done but my main question is do I have to prime the oil pump when I drain that extra two cups out of the crankcase?
My understanding is that it's necessary when you disconnect the supply line from the reservoir. Thats the note in the manual I have. It's a great question. Id think the same. It would seem draining the crankcase would potentially drain the pump as well. But I think the concern is when disconnecting the supply line you likely introduce air into the system prior to the pump and that can then when reconnected inhibit flow. Causing basically a blockage. Ot the affect of one. Similar to having air in your cooling system. But again its a pretty simple procedure and I don't think it can hurt anything for peace of mind.
Thanks for the video. I knew you were in Alaska when you called it a wheeler haha. I’m in Tok. Thanks again!!!
Yep. Saying Snow machine instead of snow mobile is telling as well.
Been running ours for barn hauling and harrow dragging, and it's in for some fluid change. Always nice to see the parts pulled before getting my hands dirty. Already had to tear down the carb and bend the float back into spec (fuel overflowing), so this looks like a piece of cake. Thanks!!!
Yah I think you'll handle this just fine compared to that. Hahaha. Glad you found it helpful.
@@ericinalaska7648 We really gotta give credit to the basic teardown instructionals.
If I had to do anything even this simple without a good layout of the systems. This level of basic repair could be pretty hard.
The priming of the pump is strange enough, I could see experienced mechanics doing real damage.
I think this is probably more dangerous than tearing out the carb for a recalibration. At least with that the systems aren't sensitive to the methods. (the closure of the vent is pretty serious) *Mechanically speaking
Good video. I've changed my oil but never with a camera in my hand. Why would I need to purge? I don't understand. Air gets trapped? I purge an old ford tractor when it runs out of diesel but others fire right up. Any insight would be appreciated.
Thats my understanding. Air getting trapped, some call it vapor lock. Preventing proper circulation. If you disconnect your supply line to the oil pump. Then you need to prime it. Thats not to say you may not get lucky if you don't. But why risk it. Its not needed or suggested per the manual other than for that specific scenario. So if you just remove the plug on the reservoir and change the filter like most do. No need. Its very specific to if you disconnect the line(s). Hope that helps.
I recently purchased a "99 500 Magnum. After using the 4WD I heard a strange noise coming from the front differential. My local dealer suggested to first check/replace the fluid. Looks like a real Pain in the Rear! Finally found the fill plug UNDER a radiator hose that travels across the diff. housing. Does the hose have to be disconnected to make this happen? Thanks for any help/advice you can provide. John in Texas
Well .... Id say if you can get at the plug without removing it then Id have at it. It'll of course be a little messy but I think the alternative will in its own way as well. I can't say Im exactly familiar with that set up. Is it a plug or bolt? Either way. Can you get the appropriate tool on it? And will it be just as easy getting it back in? Thats the thing also to consider. Are you able to force the hose out of the way?
Tip: from the beginning I painted my crankcase drain plug Red just to make it easier to spot when I drain it.
Certainly an option. Thank you.
Very nice detailed video. It helped me.
Great to hear! Thank you for the feedback.
Thank for all your time this help me out for my atv :)
Glad to hear it!
You are so knowledgeable about the 2000 Sportsman 500. I wonder if you could give me some guidance and direction on a problem I have.
I dropped a paper cap from a fuel stabilizer into the gas tank by accident. I can't think of any way to get it out. How hard is it to get the gas tank off. Or maybe you have another way to get it out. I feel like I need a trick here. I really don’t want to take the tank off.
I have taken the seat off and the side shields. I did watch you video how to remove all of the plastic and I was hoping that I wouldn't have to do all of that.
Tank comes off pretty easy but ..... I have a grabber for such recoveries. About 12-18" long with a spring loaded deal I press with my thumb and the fingers on the other end open and close. But if you don't...... maybe just try to fish it out with a clean stick or screwdriver. Or maybe a pc of tubing. Press it to the bottom with the tubing. Cover the tubing with your finger and see if it causes it to stick? Just things Id try if it were me. Or if it floats. Fill the tank until it floats to the top and grab it.
very thorough video. best one out there. thank you
Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helped.
Hello. My oil reservoir has two breather connections at the top? Do I crimp both off? I only noticed that you used one hemostat tool. Should I not crimp the other? I can't post a picture here but there's definitely more than one.
What year make and model do you have?
@@ericinalaska7648 1995 Polaris Magnum 425
@@futuregamer5791 I did some searching and the few pics I found, were very limited. Does it have a a black line, and what was once a clear line that has yellowed? The design I have and demonstrate has one vent line that goes to the airbox under the seat. Is that the same with your black line and then the clear/yellowed one goes? To the ground or? Like a fuel or over flow vent?
I don't know for sure. Id have to dig more but my instinct is that you'd clamp them both if that's the case. When you clamp the line as I did in the video. Your creating pressure to force oil through the pump and as It warms and expands its intended to fill any voids in the flow by not allowing the pressure created out the vent. Thats my understanding anyway. So I would think you'd clamp both but I would need to reference the manual on that one. I haven't been able to find any reference at this point. See if you can get a manual for that model. They're usually pretty cheap and great to have. Let me/us know if you sort it out. Ill see if I can find anything.
@@ericinalaska7648 So bad news for me. I rebuilt the engine and had it running. I first pinched off both of those oil reservoir breathers and ran it for almost a minute. Then ran it normally and within 2 minutes the engine locked up. Not completely but it's definitely seizing up. I think I'm throwing in the towel on this one and I've decided I won't be purchasing anything else Polaris branded. The engine locked up previous to the rebuild the cam froze to the cylinder head. I tore it completely down and split the case. Replaced water pump assembly, timing chain,piston rings, honed out the cylinder, new cam shaft and cylinder head, rockers, thermostat, gaskets, carburetor, expensive p4 5w50 oil, oil filter, fuel filter, fuel pump. And now that piece of junk locked right back up. I'd never recommend that anyone buys Polaris.
@@futuregamer5791 I can certainly understand your frustration. I haven't ever gone to that extent. I had a similar scenario with a snow machine/mobile. I didn't rebuild the motor but removed it for other repairs and put it back in and learned the hard way about air in the cooling system. Didn't tilt the front up as recommended while filling coolant. Didn't know that was recommended. No TH-cam back then. This was many years ago. We went out riding and that didn't last long. Seized. The reason I share that is to tell you that in that situation and likely in yours I would try to just find a salvage motor. Complete and just swap it. If you do the math its likely less $$$ and time certainly than rebuilding. Definitely deflating after all that work. Silver lining. I bet you can tare one of those apart pretty efficiently now.
Thank you for sharing, well done on the info and presentation. Fun fact my 08 500 EFI manual states 10-20 seconds for the pump prime procedure.
Thank you for that. Hopefully that will further emphasize what cannot be emphasized enough. One size does not fit all. Always refer to your year make and models specifications. Thanks for the kind words and feedback.
Excellent video. Found it super helpful. Thanks.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
Super thorough and we'll explained. Thank you very much
Thanks for the feedback. Hope it got you where you needed to be to complete the mission.
The Crank Case oil that was Drained
How do you refill it ?
Is it Connected with Motor oil
Reservoir???
It is. Its all connected. Just make sure if you've disconnected any of the lines that you prime the pump. I talk about all that in the video.
Thank you for putting this on here!! I'm doing my 450 sportsman now and I've been searching for a video. So far I've seen at least 3 different variations on how to do it plus my service manual and they were all a little different. The first video I saw from the polaris page was that the drain plug was directly underneath the frame and vertical or atleast how it appeared on the video. The next was the same page and it was just the drain plug on the left side and my service manual said nothing about the left side of the quad and only mentioned the drain plug on the right side. So needless to say I was a bit confused. Again Thank you so much.
Yah there are many subtle differences year to year and of course make and model. When you do the trans and front gear case fluids. There is lots of differences there. Especially the front gear case from year to year. As to what fluids to use.
There is one cup of oil left in the bottom of the engine after you drain the tank. That is what the bottom bolt is for. If you drain that or remove the banjo line with the screen on it, you have to prime the oil pump by pinching the oil breather line 2” off of the tank, just before the cutt in the line (3” off tank) you make with a blade. Hemostat the breather hose, run the bike for 30-45sec, shut off, release hemostat and listen for the suction sound. Your pump is primed and the cup of dirty oil everyone leaves in their engine is gone.
Can I take the supply line off the bottom on the back side and clean that just by itself? I want to drain oil, drain the secondary by the trans that is now going to require me to pinch off and prime oil pump and I would like to clean that screen. Thats about as far as I my comfort level is.
Thats really most of it really. You will need to prime if you disconnect the supply line. You should hear kind of a swoosh or kind of like a sucking sound.
I just noticed I just got a big batch of older comments. This one said 1 yr ago.Very weird. And this one is familiar to me but in case Im confusing it with a similar comment. In the event I never got it until now. I will respond (Pos again.) Sounds like you should be fine doing as described.
Thanks, enjoyed this very much. I got 500 sportsman don't know any thing about it. 1st four wheeler I've owned. I don't even know the year of it.
Glad you enjoyed it! If you look on the frame down some where between the foot rest and front left tire. If you're sitting on it left side. You should be able to find a serial/VIN # stamped on it. From that you should be able to determine the year. part of the # indicates the year. I believe it's the 10th character in a 17 character serial /VIN number if I remember correctly. But its easily googled. You could likely just punch in the VIN # and learn all kinds of things about it. I actually did just that to clarify a few things on this machine before buying it.
I have a 1999 sportsman 500 4x4..... thanks for the knowledge and info
Glad its of help.
One of the most well done amateur videos I've seen on this topic. Love the clear images and stillness of the camera.
I've got this 1996 sportsman never changed the oil but I will !🤦
Question: what kind of oil do they recommend in the books we put in there ?
Glad you enjoyed it. PS4 For the oil seems to be pretty common in most it seems. If I had a 1996 that would be my go to likely. I don't have the manual handy at the moment but it may say a specific viscocity that's recommended that you could then substitute.. Sometimes they do. I just don't recall off the top of my head, Ill have to check. I Just don't want to guess and mislead you. If your looking for a cheaper option you can find lots of threads and conversations online covering what others use instead,. You'll just have to use your judgment regarding that. I tend to stay with the PS4.
@@ericinalaska7648
Hello again.
Thanks for your answer. I came up on a complete oil change kit on the internet for my model and yes it is polaris ps4 (or any synthetic 5w50 if you want it cheaper).
👍
@@mr.octopus6972 Yes I have read many people using 5w50. And some manuals I have indicate that option. The main reason Id stick with PS4 would be if I had a newer model that was still under warranty. So it wouldn't become void. But other than that. I wouldn't personally loose any sleep on an older machine.
@@mr.octopus6972 Good info. Yes I have read several threads over the years regarding common use of 5w50 and some manuals also suggest it as compatible or as an option for some machines. The main reason I would stick with PS4 would be if I had a newer machine still under warranty. So I wouldn't have any issues with a voided warranty. Unless specified. But on an older machine. I certainly wouldn't loose any sleep over it.
Good information to know, I just purchased a used 2001 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
Glad it's of use. Much more to come. Currently converting the low beams to an after market LED option. And then before I put the plastics back on I intend to just kind of go through it and identify and locate parts some may wonder about or aren't sure where to locate or what or where they are. Thanks for the support.
Do you have an anti-drain back on that filter because I couldn't see it at all.... On a horizontal filter like that the oil would drain out and could give you a dry start. If that's the case then using an aftermarket filter could be a huge deal. But using different oil is not a big deal at all.
Its my understanding that that's standard in NAPA Gold (as well as silver and platinum) filters. Here is a link to a video that demonstrates the three better than Id hope to. That addresses it, and compares the three and shows their differences. th-cam.com/video/1B_hWb5mCCg/w-d-xo.html It appears the Silver has a rubber ADBV and the Gold and Platinum are Silicone. Thank you for bringing this up of course. Certainly something for people to consider when considering an after market filter. Ive seen and heard that that feature has been mandated but have also seen and heard people say there not sure that they would say all filters have or are required to have that feature. I can say Ive been using them for years.In fact the only one Ive used other than OME. With no known issues. Several different machines and part #'s. So far so good. Thanks again for that. I think its good info for viewers and readers.
Hey I got a 2011 700 Polaris sportsman and I might have the clear vacuum line hoses mixed up I was wondering if you could do a video on that they're up by the headlight front headlight the solo one
I googled "2011 polaris 700 vacuum hoses" And the results come up with some diagrams/pics. I didn't dig too deep but I think with some refined searches you should be able to come up with a reasonable reference. Im not familiar with that particular model and don't currently have access to one. Shouldn't be too difficult to find what you need though. Hope that helps a little anyway.
Split it then take the supply line off of it and then take that screen out of it and then spray it down on the bike and clean it out just make sure the supply lines taken off of it so you don't end up getting parts cleaner down in the crankcase. From what I'm seeing you can do it that way if you don't want to take that completely off. Would that be correct?
I believe you could but its really easy to take off. And makes all the rest easier to get at. I mainly was demonstrating and showing the parts in detail for those that have never dug in that deep. And to help folks have a better understanding of what's all going on and what's what. If you you disconnect the supply line you'll need to prime the oil pump of course. But as you mentioned. You could split the oil reservoir while still on the machine I would think if you chose.
@@ericinalaska7648 ok I thought it looked like that. I just got a 2000 Polaris sportsman 500 4x4. Doing a bunch of maintenance just wanted to make sure what I needed to do.
@@coachnutt61 Well hopefully all goes well. Always a good idea to go through a new acquisition.
@@ericinalaska7648 to prime the oil pump if I understood the video I need to clamp the hose coming out of the top of the reservoir is that correct?
@@coachnutt61 Assuming yours is the same and I believe it should be. The top hose/line, the breather line that goes to the air box under the seat/air filter there is a slit maybe an inch back you need to clamp between the slit and reservoir. (Without clamping or crushing the nylon threaded pc at the end of the line that threads into the reservoir.) And after running it and you remove the clamp you should hear like a pressure relief sound. if not repeat. You'll have to watch the video or refer to your manual if you have one. I don't want to try to rattle off all the steps here and miss something. But its really not that complicated. I cover it pretty in depth in the video if you don't have a manual. Hope that helps. If you watch the video in its entirety I think most questions will be answered. I did not cover the relief sound or repeat so be aware of that.
Nice job! Very informative and helpful. I appreciate this very much.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. I definitely learned something. Thanks
Glad to hear it! Thanks.
I have a 2002 Polaris sportsman 500. The manual calls for engine oil Polaris Premium 4 Synthetic 0W-40. I noticed that the PS4 is 0W-50. Are you using the PS4 in place of the 0W-40 ?
I have always inquired when getting a new (Old) machine and been handed PS4. The Only Polaris brand 0-W40 Ive seen is usually for snow machines/mobiles. I would imagine the viscosity of 0-W40 would be better for colder weather. I know the PS4 comes in two temp ratings. Colder or hotter temp ranges. But I believe both are 0-W50. Of different formulations. Ill have to double check that now though. All that aside I would use as recommended in the manual. This is a 1999 and when clarifying at the shop. I was told and handed PS4 and that that's what they use all day in just about everything they work on. Meaning if I had them do it. Thats what they'd use. And since Im way out of any warranty concerns. I personally wouldn't loose sleep over it. If you you use other than what's recommended during your warranty period and you have an issue and they test the fluids, and likely would, and find different than what's specified. You're done. But I would imagine outside of that you'd be hard pressed to find many that would validate any fears of using one verses the other. Especially on a 20 year old machine. Clean oil and filter in my opinion even if off brand or similar weight is better than neglected oil of brand name. Im pretty consistent with the products I use though. And do my best to use as recommended. If your book States 0-W40 that's what I would use. Assuming everything else is the same as indicated in the manual. Year, make and model and version etc. Hope that helps.
I was also notified about another comment you had left regarding the crankcase oil/draining. But it may have been deleted because I cant respond to it as if it had been deleted. When I click on it. Did you sort that out or see it in the video and remove? Just wanted to make sure I responded if you had a question regarding that.
@@ericinalaska7648 hi eric. Thanks for getting back to me and thanks for all your wonderful videos. The reply that I quickly deleted was one where I mentioned that I saw in the manual about draining the lower section of the crankcase. But then I realized you had already mentioned that.
@@ringwood Got it. Hopefully my explanation cleared up any oil confusion and didn't add to it.
Great video. I have a question Eric, I just picked up a 2004 Sportsman 700 EFI and it has been sitting for several years. I am going through all of it and when it comes to changing the oil, I know you should run the engine first. Is it ok for me to just change the oil and filter as it sat for so long, or get everything else done and get the ATV running and then change the oil last?
I cant say Ive NEVER changed oil in something without running it first. But its been a long time. There are a couple good reasons to run it first. For example, you're warming up the oil and that helps it flow/drain better and more completely. The other thought is that by circulating the oil it helps more thoroughly remove any sediment and or sludge or particulates that may have separated or settled over time. While parked. By kind of remixing it all just before draining. So its a better end result assuring you have new clean oil, less likely to be contaminated by old. And the old that would remain if you don't run it first would likely be the worst of the oil you're trying to remove and replace. I would recommend running it first. Especially if its sat a long time. If your too deep in and didn't or couldn't. Its not the end of the world but Id be inspired to schedule my next oil and filter change sooner than usual. Nothing to loose sleep over though. But given the choice. warm it up a bit.
@@ericinalaska7648 Ok thanks for the quick reply. I will plan to change out everything else first and then once I get it running I will replace with oil. Great video!
@@BoneReaperz Thank you and good question.
Really appreciate this video. Really clear instruction. Thanks
Glad it was helpful. Thank you.
I have this identical ATV, 1999 Sportsman 500. Your videos have been most helpful to me, thank you for creating them. I am looking for some discussion about the fuel tank. Specifically, inside the tank itself and at the sump area where the fuel heads to the carburetor , there were one or two black tubes, presumably fitted into the "fuel out fittings". These tubes have disintegrated and became floating debris in the tank. While I have removed the debris, I am left wondering if replacing them is necessary, and if so, how to do that. Do the fuel out fittings come off the bottom of the tank and reinstall? The machine still runs fine with these tubes gone, but am I just getting lucky so far? What is their purpose? I do not find them on any parts diagram. Thank you!
I'll do some digging. I personally haven't dealt with that.Ill be with mine in a couple days. But won't be on the computer for a few after that. Gonna chase some fish. When I get back I'll see if I can offer any insight. If you figure it out before. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648 Greetings. Apologies for the long absence. This ATV lives at a friend's house in another state and I only recently made the journey back to see it after a long summer of busy. I have an update here and I misunderstood what I was seeing. If you look into the gas tank from the filler cap, there are two ports present. The left port has a "straw" tube the reaches up about 2-3". The port on the right has no tube. From a gas tank parts diagram for this machine, the left port is the main tank and the right port is the reserve tank. What I thought was a disintegrating tube turns out to be a pencil shaped screen and it was quite hard to get that out of the tank. Additionally, there was some small, wire shaped debris in the tank that was colored red. I mention this only in that it is not clear to me if this is a disintegrating part of some kind or just foreign debris. Also, the reserve tank will not pump gas to the engine so this port is obviously clogged. I am presuming this...the straw on the main part of the tank is taking in fuel from above the sump area. When switching to RES on the fuel switch, the fuel must come from the port on the right and that screen must be involved in some way to keep sediment out of the system. However, I find no reference to this screen on the parts diagrams. I have pictures of the ports inside the tank and the screen if you are curious. I didn't see a video for taking the gas tank off the fuel fittings to clean things, but that is where I am headed next. That screen probably fits into the right port itself. If you have any feedback or advice from your experience in taking the fuel tank apart, it is appreciated. The wheeler has been winterized and I likely won't get back to it until next spring since it lives now in snow country, but I don't. Thanks.
@@BigRedDg Hey Andrew. Same with mine. Away and away from me for the winter. But I still have a few resources handy. My understanding of the tubes is similar to yours. My first thought is what caused them to disintegrate. Im only guessing but I suspect ethanol gas possibly. Older equip and small engine stuff such as lawn mowers and chainsaws don't like it. The parts don't hold up to it well and when it was first introduced it caused headaches for many. And from my understanding parts had to be reengineered to accommodate it. Just a thought. The tubes as you suggested are one for your main fuel and one for your reserve. When in tact. One is taller with a screen filter on it. and the shorter one is the reserve. So once the fuel gets low enough or below the screen it starves for fuel. Then you switch to reserve and it will run until getting to or below that one. It looks like you'd have to remove the tank and then the connector off the bottom of the tank. If you take your plastics off it looks pretty intuitive. Id clamp off the hose or fuel line coming out and if there is enough slack tilt it over to empty what fuel you can into a drain pan or something. Then pop that connector out. Looks like a cast part with a couple screws probably and I would imagine a gasket. Yours may be plastic. Id replace the gasket since its off. If fuel or whatever, time, disintegrated the tubes it's likely working on that too. Maybe not. Im not sure you have a gasket on yours but I would think. Once out. Replace the tubes assuming that's your intent.. Then it all works as it should. And reverse the steps. Clean the tank out as best you can of course prior to reinstall. Id say the best time ever in your whole life would be now prior to starting to replace the inline fuel filter. They're like $3. And maybe even force flush the fuel line. You could also disconnect the pump and flush that out a bit as well if you want to get that crazy about it. Short answer. If it runs and your fine as is. Probably no harm other than no reserve it sounds. And pos debris circulating in the system. Hope that helps. Let me know.
@@ericinalaska7648 Eric, I appreciate your reply. I understand your comments here and the next step really is to dig in and take the tank off and get into these two valves. I found some pictures of these valves online and the screen I found floating clearly belongs to these valves. I may just replace the valves themselves as the screen looks to be fastened to the inlet and if I am going to the effort of taking this all apart, I would prefer a fresh affix to the assembly. Better to do that than just jam it back in place and find it loose again in the future. I keep spare inline filters handy and have replaced it recently. Likely when I take it all apart, something will shake loose and plug it again. Since the wheeler is down for the winter, I will likely not get this done until next May. I will update you when all that gets done. Again, thanks for your input, it is much appreciated.
@@BigRedDg Sure thing. Seems like a pretty simple solution. Time consuming of course but not too complicated. If you think of it that far down the road. Feel free to check back in and share any lessons learned. Some people watch some read comments. Whatever works. Its all helpful.Enjoy the winter. Until next May.
I just purchased a 2003 sportsman 500 ho. Unfortunately it didn't come with the owners manual or service manual. If I'm doing the basic oil change of draining the oil tank and engine block. Do I still need to prime the oil pump if I didn't remove any oils lines? I just need the extra clarification.
I have never primed after a simple oil change. My understanding is if you didn't disconnect the lines you don't need to prime. If all you did is drain and refill and change the filter. I haven't seen anything to the contrary. I just checked a 2002 manual. I Don't have a 2003. But if your still concerned or uneasy I can't see any harm in doing it if you choose.
also says when you take the clamp off if you dont hear any air come out the vent hose to repat until you do
You sir are absolutely correct. Thank you for adding that. The note I read from the service manual was in the oil change part. But looking further into the pump priming specifically it does say " If the line is bled properly you should hear air release, If you do not hear air the line is not bled. Repeat." Helpful comment thank you.
@@ericinalaska7648 very good video. I just thought maybe to have added that in for you to help save any misunderstandings others may have. Thank you for sharing a great video.
@@topdogmechanic8261 Absolutely. Appreciate it. Any nuggets like that are always helpful. Thats what it's all about.
@@ericinalaska7648 exactly and no worries brutha.. Anytime.... Keep them great videos coming
@Topdog Mechanic Will do. Check out the other stuff as well if you haven't already. I may deviate from the polaris topic at times but Ill always return.
Nice thorough video!
Thank you. That was the goal anyway. Some times less is more but people seem to appreciate the depth in this particular video. More to come.
How to change the transmission fluid on 1999 polaris 6 wheel
Is it a "Big Boss" Even if not. Check out this link to an owners manual I found. It's the best thing I could find. Everything else seems to be regarding Rangers. cdn.polarisindustries.com/polaris/common/parts-manuals/9922807r01.pdf
What hose is clamped off again to prime it ? Is it the same for a Ranger 500 ?? Thanks
The breather hose that goes from the top/back of the reservoir to the filter compartment under your seat. You clamp it between the reservoir and the slit. (See video). I can't say for sure without confirming regarding the Ranger. Likely similar enough though. If you understand the goal you'd probably just apply the same process I would think. But Id dig a bit of course before saying with full confidence.
@@ericinalaska7648 I got it primed a bit ago , works great , thanks for getting back to me on it !!👍🏻
@@waylonmccrae3546 Good deal. No problem.
I have a brake question if you could help.
1999 sportsman 500.
The foot brake and hand brake like to play ‘teter-totter’ and requires I pull the hand brake while I push the foot brake. And I can feel the pressure from the foot brake on the hand brake when I press it? It’s like a one way valve somewhere isn’t working. Ideas?
Do the brakes still work though? Or seem weak? My initial response would be. It shouldn't be doing that. And my instinct would be to investigate the hand brake and how that master cylinder (The brake fluid reservoir) is functioning separately as well as the one for the foot pedal. But yah. the pressure that is produced or built up by squeezing the hand brake or stepping on the foot brake should be activating your brake pads/shoes. Not transferring to the pedal or hand brake opposite of which ever one you're using. I don't have access at the moment but I suspect and seem to think that if I squeeze the hand brake on mine and others Ive had that the other (foot pedal) would become slack. I won't swear to it at this point with out access to verify. But that would be my expectation. Id first check all my fluid levels. Check for leaks. Bleed the lines. And if it persists Id isolate and check each individually to try to determine the issue. And also if you haven't already watched it. This one may be of some help. th-cam.com/video/RlUSYCLmbbE/w-d-xo.html
@@ericinalaska7648 so I replaced the foot pedal master cyl. I used a $25 generic wildwood part that is exact part. (Saved $100 from dealership)
I bled all corners and still have the issue. I guess is the rear caliper is the problem.
For now I have the rear brake pedal locked in the down position and everything works fine.
When I squeeze the hand brake it will actually overflow the little fluid resivour under the seat connected to rear foot brake. Once foot brake is applied no more back flow. Ill report back once I also replace the rear caliper.
I found on another forum the exact same symptoms I’m having- the rear brake caliper has a problem with the seals. I’ve got a seal kit on order from eBay so I’ll tear it apart and rebuild.
@@Upliftyourbrothers I haven't had to do that but it looks pretty straight forward in the manual. How do your pads look while you're at it? They're pretty cheap.
Wonder if you heard a woosh sound when you released that hemostat? Read you would?
Yes. You should hear like a swoosh or maybe a faint sucking sound. If not just repeat. Its not always loud or obvious as you'd want. If you don't hear anything convincing. Repeat. No harm will come from repeating the same steps over.
This is why you read the owners manual, I’ve done countless oil changes when I’ve removed the screen to clean, or remove the crankcase drain and have never primed the oil pump!! My 01 is running strong even with an owner who doesn’t read! Lol.
Yep. Ive learned much from them over the years. We all get info different ways though. And this is certainly one of the ways. On the TH-cams. Ive heard many over the years, say they don't mess with draining "that little bit" out of the crankcase because priming is perceived to be a process. As you saw. There is more than a little oil in the crankcase. And the priming is no big adventure. Glad it was of help. Thats the goal really. Thanks for the feedback.
@@ericinalaska7648 Eric, out of curiosity I checked my owners manual to see what other steps I might have missed, and it states “Start engine and let it idle for one to two minutes. Stop engine and check for leaks.” It doesn’t mention the oil pump priming which I find odd as the engine and oil system look identical between your ‘99 and my ‘01! Lol
@@HOBrian2003 The priming note addresses only if you disconnect the supply lines. (The line with the screen for example.) Other than that. Yes You just need to start and run for a couple minutes and check level and for leaks. The priming is all about the supply lines. My manual says the same with an added note about priming if you disconnect the line(s). I think I babbled about that a little in the video. Id have to rewatch it though.
hey do you have a link for the crankcase oil drain bolt i lost mine thanks again
I don't. But Ill look into it when I get a chance in a bit when
I get home. Shouldn't be too hard to determine which one you need.
@@ericinalaska7648 i bought one a couple of minutes ago so dont worry abt it thanks anyway tho
@@levicarrol9401 No problem. Cant imagine it was too much of a mystery for the google machine.
Great videos. I love the clarity and detail. Is there a fuel filter on this particular atv (1999 Sportsman 500 4x4)? Can you point it out?
There is. If you look to the right of the fuel shut off/reserve knob there just above the primary clutch. You'll see two white inline filters. One is the fuel filter. White and red on one end. The smaller one. And one is an inline breather filter. From the airbox. At least on mine the one in the video. I don't know for sure if the fuel filter was factory or an after market install before I got it but I believe it was factory. Hope that helps. I will be making a video going through many of the parts and pointing things out and briefly describing there function soon.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you. I look forward to your video describing these things. I have the identical ATV and it has been sturdy and reliable. Sadly, It has been sitting for a few years other than a start and warm up for about 20 minutes every 90 or so days. I am getting it back into shape now to get back into the wilderness. Your videos on this machine are proving quite valuable.
@@BigRedDg 7
Hi Eric . Video was very helpful. Just wondering you don’t have to refill the crank cases oil ? Will it automatically fill from the oil reservoir.
If you disconnect the line(s) to the oil pump. Then you need to prime it. (The pump) but other than that you should be good. Per Manual.
@@ericinalaska7648 thanks buddy your very knowledgeable I’m sure your videos have helped a lot of people.
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Glad to help. Also I should have mentioned the obvious. If you have any question regarding the oil level. Always check the dipstick. After filling and after running and after riding a bit to be sure. Cant go wrong.
Ok buddy thanks. So no need to fill crankcase it will fill automatically through the oil reservoir where you put the oil in ?
@@thomasimmesberger2644 Thats my understanding. Unless you disconnect the line to the oil pump. Im thinking that would introduce air into the pump or along the way and possibly prevent proper flow. Which is why you would prime the oil pump in that case. Otherwise enough oil must remain Im guessing even when emptying the crank case to prevent that and allow proper flow. But again always check your fluid level. And of course monitor temp gauge etc. I always say there is certainly no harm in priming the oil pump if in doubt. Just not a necessary step per the manual unless you disconnect the line to the oil pump.
Super vidéo merci ! J'avais vu une autre vidéo ou le gars vidange aussi le carter mais il ne parle pas de la pompe a huile, alors je me demandais "mais comment se remplis a nouveau le carter", grâce à toi et la procédure de la pompe a huile maintenant je sais, super, merci
De rien. Je suis content que cela ait été utile. J'ai discuté avec d'autres dans d'autres commentaires et questions également. Et je ne pense pas l'avoir mentionné dans la vidéo. Le manuel explique plus en détail dans une autre section à laquelle je faisais référence au moment de l'enregistrement. Cela si vous n'entendez pas de swoosh ou de son de décompression lors du desserrage de la ligne. Répéter. Merci encore et je suis heureux que vous ayez trouvé cela utile.
@@ericinalaska7648 Ah d'accord, merci pour cette précision 👍
@@jordanteguerre139 Aucun problème.
Sorry if I don't know the lingo lol. My friend has I believe a 2002 Sportsman 500 Ducks Unlimited version and it is leaking from the hose that connects to the piece above the oil cap, is that like a distributor for the antifreeze or is that like a fuel pump? Its a very slow leak that looks like antifreeze bc its green. It's the top hose, and when I follow yours, its looks like its twisted. What's that hose called when looking it up? I tried under cooling system, but it only shows the reservoir underneath it. Thanks so much! =)
Are you talking about the unit above the oil cap and above your fuel switch? (The on off or reserve switch) Aluminum casting I guess you could say 6 sided. With hoses to it? If so that's your fuel pump.
@@ericinalaska7648 Yeah that piece with the 3 hoses I believe. The top hose seemed to have formed a little leak that looks green, Is that even possible if its antifreeze? Or should I be looking somewhere else? It was minus 11 degrees Fahrenheit so I didn't go to in depth haha.
@@MrLegendL2118 Its actually to the left of the on off switch I think I said above. The only lines I have to mine from bottom to top are fuel. From the tank, (Fuel inlet)To/from the switch, and to the carb (Fuel outlet). Is that the color (green) of the antifreeze in the machine? That'd be a quick mystery to solve. My hose from the radiator hangs below the level of that pump. Should be No other liquid going to the pump that I''m aware of. And maybe if its running you can locate an active leak some where. Maybe when its a little warmer out though huh?
Do you need to prime if you change oil in the crankcase? I want to change only in reservoir and crankcase
My understanding from the manual is that it's required when disconnecting the supply line from the back of the reservoir. But if you're concerned, I see no harm in doing it anyway. In the video I hade completely removed the reservoir disconnecting the supply and return line. And do cover as much as possible and because I disconnected I covered priming as well.
@@ericinalaska7648 Thank you 😊
@@citionriver Thank you. If you stumble dont hesitate to clarify if something gives you pause.
How many ounces does the front differential take 2000 players sportsman 500
Usually approx 4oz. I believe I babbled about it in the "Polaris Sportsman 500 (And Similar) Front Gear Case and Transmission Fluid change" video. Heres the link if you haven't already discovered it. th-cam.com/video/lYFMaltHP28/w-d-xo.html I also checked a manual I had handy at the moment for 2002. Says 4oz. Hope that helps.
did a car oil change on my 2007 500efi sportsman x2 castrol5-40 and was told that car oil does not have enough detergent to be proper and a couple of other additves in atv etcwhich is not hard service like in high rpm atv utv
machines so foaming and smell of oil breakdown may have been formed from overheating.
Yah Ive found lots of threads over the years about many equivalents available that have been used. Im sure there are some that are just fine. But I would think under warranty anyway, most wouldn't substitute. I know many do otherwise though and Ive read a bunch that have with no known issues. Sounds like warranty is not an issue for you though likely with a 2007? In the past Ive tried to find an equivalent substitute. It was findable but not abundantly available and the price difference wasn't much of a savings. Being such a low stock item. And short of a catastrophic break down it may be hard to really tell if an equivalent or other may be accelerating damage or ware. It,s all open for discussion of course. You can certainly argue that the wrong oil is likely better than no oil. I guess my logic sometimes, not always, but I guess on this topic, Im gonna control the things I can and use what's recommended. Then at least if I have an issue that's oil related, I know I didn't cause or contribute to it. But if my buddy poured a random in out on the trail. Id be curious to see how it looks coming out and or how long he's been using it and observe. Id be interested in any info you can share from your experiment. Im certainly not gonna tell anyone what to do or not on the topic just share what I do and why. Theres always work to do to maintain toys and if I can minimize or eliminate one variable for a few more bucks that may save me many more bucks down the road...... Thats where my heads at. Ive heard many valid philosophies on oil through out my life. From people who know far more than I. But I always seem to settle back into the what does the book say to use mind set.
Not sure if you were looking for all that but ...... that's my 2 cents if it helps you sort it out.
Awesome video
Thanks for the visit. Glad you found it worthy.
Where can I find the link to remove the plastic..?
If you are watching my or anyones videos and you click on the name of the channel in my case "Eric In Alaska" it takes you to the channel and you can browse all the videos on that channel. But here is the link for that particular video. th-cam.com/video/FRiehel5EJ8/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
If you drain the oil from the crank case and the tank do you have to prime the pump ? I’ve got them both emptied and the oil smelled of fuel as well so I’m thinking the float got stuck as well ?
The manual indicates to prime if and when removing the supply line (s). Specifically. For this make and model. If you have a different make and model Id hate to mislead without checking a manual. As far as the fuel smell in the oil? There seems to be many opinions on that. Some say stuck needle valve in the carb may allow gas to continue to leak adding fuel to the crank case. Some say they smelled new Polaris oil before putting it in and it smells that way before use. Ill have to check on that one next time. Ive never noticed. Some say always turn off your gas when parking or storing your machine. Others, mechanics, say that's normal that they smell it all day while others indicate worse issues but many dispute. Its really hard to say sight unseen. But for the heck of it if you haven't already. Smell your new oil for comparison. I realize I really didn't solve the mystery and probably left you with more questions than the one you asked. Thats an issue Id need to troubleshoot a bit if I had it. Another thing to watch of course would be your fluid (oil) level. Obviously if your level goes up noticeably and you smell gas in it. You should dig into it to resolve the cause.
@@ericinalaska7648 thank you for such a quick response! I’m working on this quad for my boss .. i do know the quad had sat outside for quiet some time , I do know that this is a magnum but unsure if it is the exact same model as yours , they do look extremely similar. I have found the model number on the block , but haven’t tried to google cross reference it . But I’m waiting on the new oil to arrive ,(Amazon) I will definitely be smelling it . Would the pump pick up the oil after a few seconds even if you didn’t prime it ? Or would you think it would burn the pump up before it caught back up .
@@paulmoon8927 When it doubt as they say..... Priming is simple and if its not needed I cant see any harm in doing it anyway.. For pc of mind.
what is the length of those sleeves between the back of the fuel tank mount and frame, and what is the size and length of the bolts mine is missing both
Im trying to picture what part you're referring to. I'm away from the wheeler at the moment for a bit. Do you mean the side pieces below the tank or? The front pc. Fenders and fuel tank plastic is one pc. And then the seat buts up against the tank. Im sure I can clarify the size but Im just not clear from the description. I have another video regarding taking the plastics off. I don't talk about the specs of the bolts but maybe you can tell me the part maybe as I point to it in the video? 1999 Sportsman 500. Removing all the plastics in about 10 minutes. th-cam.com/video/FRiehel5EJ8/w-d-xo.html
@@ericinalaska7648 at the back of the fuel tank closes to the seat there are bolts on either side of the fuel tank that fasten the back of the fuel tank to the frame
imgur.com/2C0dBzi
How do you know when your starter or starter drive Bendix is going out? When I start mine a scratchy noise is on for just a minute
Does it start though? If it's a new noise, you're not use to hearing. Thats an indicator I would be suspicious of. If testing it is not in your wheel house, Id think if you stopped at a shop Im sure they could or would for you. Or at minimum give you an opinion about the noise. Assuming it does it again while you're there. We all know how that works of course. It could be a few things and not knowing your machine or hearing the noise. All I can do is speculate. Could be the Spindle/shaft on the starter damaged, Or Gear/fly wheel damaged. If you remove the starter. You would be able the evaluate the splined shaft on the starter for any damage. And also test or have it tested real easy bringing it to a shop or probably most parts stores. Hope that's of some help.
Do you have a link for that air filter and screen I can purchase?
There are many choices and prices. Assuming you have the same year and model.
This is the air filter I ordered from Amazon.. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WJJLM56/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This a compatible pre filter screen also avail on Amazon. I already had one though.
www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Compatible-Sportsman-Trail-Blazer-Trail-Boss/dp/B08PCSPHFS/ref=psdc_404753011_t3_B07WJJLM56
These links should get you there. And you can compare. Hope that helps.
Could you split the oil reservoir without taking it off the bike?
Certainly. I don't see why not.
Hey great video, new to the channel. I just bought a 2003. any issues with the speedo?
Welcome to the channel. If you haven't found it already. Here is a link to a video I did regarding the speedo for 96 to 99. th-cam.com/video/ADNyJ5sx83oI/w-d-xo.html have not personally had any issues with a 2003 or more specifically Ive owned a 02 but have not encountered any issues. But maybe the video will shed some light on some similarities or comparisons. What issues are you having?
@@ericinalaska7648 so I bought this machine about 3 weeks ago, it is in phenomenal shape, the speedometer is not working so in turn the 4x4 won't work because it's linked through the speedometer, I don't really want to bypass it if I don't have to
@@dkproconst.4402 That the same case as the speedo I repair in the video I sent the link for. AWD would not work. Common issue the one I repaired is solder failure and I had a loose resistor floating around in there as a result. Repaired and for now all is well. I anticipate a potential repeat down the road. I opted to take a shot at that due to the price of a replacement.
Absolutely, that's what I'm looking to do is repair mine, I pulled mine apart and everything is in tact, so I'll have to test some transistors and such
@@dkproconst.4402 Id be curious to hear what you find.
How many hours is on that machine ? Thanks for the video
Quite a few. I couldn't say exactly Because the speedo was out for a while.
Just a quick question I followed this video but when I came to priming I forgot to tighten up the two hose clamps that go to the engine ( feed and supply lines) I had the hoses hooked up but forgot to tighten the hose clamps. Do you think this would have sucked any air in? I ran the engine like this for a minute. I then realised I hadn’t tightened them hose clamps up so I primed again. I still didn’t hear any rush of air like the manual says you would when priming. I’m just concerned do you think within the one minute of the two hose clamps not being done up ruined anything ? Thanks again for your great detailed videos you go to allot of trouble subscribed.
@@cruza1289 Repeating the priming certainly can't hurt. I wouldn't loose too much sleep over having caused damage. One minute shouldn't do anything devastating. If you were out riding and thought oh no those are still loose and your temp gage came on then Id be concerned. Just repeat the steps as described in the manual. You should get the results you need. And carry on. Im not an expert on it but I would think if you did anything as a result the ware you put on the engine in a minute couldn't be any worse than a cold start is on a machine that's been sitting. Thats also I would think why the formula to the priming steps are written as they are. To protect from damage if anything isn't quite happy. Just a thought. if that gives you piece of mind.
Thanks for your reply. You haven’t ever replaced the top steering column bush before ?
@@cruza1289 I have not.