Anet A8 3D Printer - MK8 Extruder Assembly : Setup Tutorial
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ย. 2016
- Hopefully this short tute might help someone with their extruder assembly and setup. :)
Please let me know if there's anything that needs to be amended or changed.
Credit given to Razvan and Speedy for passing the tips on to me.
Grab yourself an Anet A8 here: www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3...
SPARE/ REPLACEMENT PARTS:
NOZZLES:
• Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
• Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-pa...
• Ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53...
MOSFET:
• Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
• Ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53...
BLOWER/ PART COOLING FAN:
• Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-pa...
MAIN BOARD:
• Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-pa...
THROAT TUBES:
• Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
• Gearbest: www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-pa...
• Ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53...
ENTIRE HOTEND:
• Ebay: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/705-53...
• Amazon: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
![[Устарело] Всё об экструдерах 3D принтеров. Принцип работы, решение проблем, инструкция по сборке.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/5ZxN1LFajrw/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this video. I've looked and looked for one that really gives a closeup & detailed look at assembling extruder and nozzle. Yours is only one I've found that details it so well. With all the A8 assembly videos on TH-cam I can't believe how this part is just blown over. I can't believe I'm the only one who just can't figure it out and I was afraid I'd break something. So again thanks so much.
Really simple, helpful video. Was actually searching for something else but ended up watching and saving this video for when my Anet A8 arrives due to your camera angles and clarity alone. Really appreciate it. Great vid.
Thanks +Jonathan, I really appreciate the support. :D
This was very helpful. Also, applying stress relief to the cables...I didn't know about that! Thanks!!!
Thanks +David Lenser! I'm glad it helped. Are you up and printing?
Yes. Doing much better now. Your narration style for the video made me laugh too! Thanks again!
You helped me fix my extruder issues because of this video (heating element and sensor came out of the holes). Thanks for the video!
I'm so glad you got it fixed +menorevs, it can be so upsetting when your printer is out of action. ;)
Feel free to subscribe for updates. :)
Thanks dude. I had to replace my hotend and your steps were spot on.
Your camera work is very good, best how to videos.
Thanks Jarrod! I think that's the kindest comment I've received since I started youtubeing! 😊
I'd better take a look at your channel and see what you do. 👍🏻
Thanks for this video. Could you show the side of steel teflon pipe monted in front of nozzle (telfon side or steel side) ?
thx dude, I was missing one simple step but your video saved me.
Glad you got it all sorted! :) Are you all up and printing?
This video was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
Thank you so much for the kind comment, my apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :)
Thanks again and stay safe! :)
Truly the best video ever for how to setup the extruder, guess what? I am printing without bed leveling now for almost 4 days and the quality is the best yet since 4 years when I bought this 3d printer, Iwas really in pain I hate it until I saw this video and it's now really perfect. Thank you very much for that! 💖💖👍👍 Subscription is necessary!
Thanks for making this video, it helped me with my gears homework!
Thank you so much for the kind comment, my apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :)
Is there anything you'd specifically like a video on?
Thank you. Had no idea about that "grub screw" or any idea what it was even called
Awesome! Glad it helped! Feel free to subscribe for ongoing tips, tricks, reviews etc. 😊
Thanks for watching. 👍🏻
Thank you, your video was extremely helpful
Thanks Lucas! Glad we could help. Feel free to subscribe for updates. :)
Mate, you helped me so much. I skipped through my instructions and had a couple successful prints, but now i've destroyed my heater block and throat nozzle and need to replace them. Turns out I had everything configured all sorts of incorrect.
I hope it's working well now? Any issues still to solve?
Perfect, taught me what I need to know - My feeder tube plugged from pulling out hot filament, and I wondered what unscrewed from what. Now I know: Loosen or remove the nozzle, THEN I can loosen the feeder tube, heat it, and push the stuck filament out of it.
SO NOW I know I should snip off the filament as it goes into the head, and print until it runs out, then I can insert the new filament. I guess I'd just been "lucking out" pulling the filament hot to change filament.
Hi +Ward,
Sorry for the late response.
To be honest, I actually don't recommend 'printing' the last of the filament out. The way the extruder works is that the filament is pushed down and into the hot end via gears that will run out of 'grip' on the end of the filament before it has been completely extruded.
The method I use to change filament is known as the cold-pull or atomic pull method.
You can check it out here: th-cam.com/video/F7geQEtyr4I/w-d-xo.html
Feel free to subscribe for updates as we go. :)
Thanks for the reply! I like to pull the filament out hot, but that's when a little blob stuck at the top = cold part of the tube, so had to take the head apart because I couldn't push through the blob.
Perhaps your "push down first, then pull" as kindly explained in your referenced video will be the solution. Maybe I got one of those "one in xxxx" problems.
Oh, and for the sake of your I-feel-sorry-for-it Thumb, I suggest printing an extruder button. I really like www.thingiverse.com/thing:2182276 though perhaps due to shrinkage, it didn't fit my hex head, so I drilled it out. Later in Blender I made the hole a tiny bit bigger and reprinted it. A real thumb-saver.
Hi Ward,
The key is to let the hot end cool a little before pulling it out. There is a sweet spot where the filament is soft enough to be malleable but not soft enough to be any where near liquid. When you really get it right, the end of the filament(where it comes out of the hot end) will even be in the shape of the inside of the nozzle.
Don't give up, you'll get it. :)
Thank you very much!
www.creativemechanisms.com/blog/learn-about-polylactic-acid-pla-prototypes
Quotes the PLA melting point as 150-160ºC, so I'm going to watch the temperature as it cools down, and try pulling at perhaps 170.
thanks for this video, helped a lot!
my nozzle clogged at the first (testing) print...
can i just unscrew the nozzle after preheating for cleaning?
any tipps for cleaning a clogged nozzle?
Hi TheDorovan, thanks for the post. Cleaning your nozzle shouldn't be too hard at all! Always make sure anything you do(undoing, tightening, adjusting etc) anything regarding the hotend, with it heated up. Thermal expansion will usually end out in broken parts if done cold.
You can carefully undo your nozzle and use either a hypodermic needle or micro drill bit to clear it. If you were printing with ABS, you can soak the nozzle in acetone and that will break the clog up. I have heard of guys using a blowtorch or similar and blasting it with heat to burn the clog out but I haven't used this technique yet.
I hope this helps! Feel free to subscribe for regular updates, I will probably do a nozzle-cleaning video next time I need to clear a clog as well. 😃
-JMW.
old quesiton, but a cold pull often helps. let it heat up to the point, where you can barely force a a bit though the nozzle (or move the filament, if the nozzle is actually blocked), keep pushing .. and pull it out with a quick tug.
doing this when changing filament helps to prevent plockages of the throat tube, and keep the mozzle free fo residue.
Nice. Thank you for making this video.
My pleasure @tubejim101, glad we could help! Feel free to subscribe for regular updates. 😊
-JMW.
Subscribed :)
Thanks +tubejim101!
Very useful thank u, it helps me to change the tube broken
Glad it helped my friend. :) I still refer to my own video when doing a rebuild.. HAhaha.
Thanks this was helpful!
Thanks for the comment @Joey duncan, glad I could help! Feel free to check out my other 3D printing videos and subscribe for regular updates. 😄
Thanks again and happy printing!
Two questions.. 1: is that an all metal throat tube? If not, 2: Did you put install it PTFE tube up or down against the nozzle?
My apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :) This was not an all-metal and to be honest, I can't remember exactly, I think hot end but I haven't used a PTFE tube in a while. I can check in the next few days if it's still something you would like to know? (I'm sure you have sorted it out by now. :P )
Thanks and stay safe!
great video! Could you tell me where you got your extruder mount (that mounts extruder to x-axis) from?
Hi +Matt Wilson , thanks for the comment.
The extruder carriage came with my Anet A8 kit. Are you building a 3D printer from scratch or replacing a part? I can help source the part for you if you want?
-JMW.
I built it from scratch a couple of years ago. I was having trouble finding one at first, then later it came right up. must have typed something wrong. LOL
Oh haha. As long as you got it sorted. Happy printing!
Can I use an mk8 nozzle for anet a8? Are there any differences between the anet a8 nozzle/extruder and the mk8 nozzle/extruder?
my apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :) I'm sure you got this sorted but the answer is yes. :)
I was under the impression the mk8 hot end was the e3d small squarish heatsink one. This looks like the stock assembly.
How much do you need to screw the tube with the thermal barrier into the housing? What should be the distance between it and the mounting plate?
my apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :) Did you get this sorted?
You sure you haven't inserted the throat the wrong way around? Usually on MK8, the PTFE liner goes against the nozzle. PTFE is a loose insert, and If it was going against the extruder, there's usually no barrier that would prevent PTFE liner from sliding up into extruder body on retraction. Normally the PTFE liner is held in by nozzle pressure on one end and by the flange of the throat on the other.
My throat tube snapped in half just when I tightened it at installation. Is asking them for replacements the best solution?
I would just buy a pack of spares to be honest. They are very cheap and you will need them in the future. I like to keep spare nozzles, throat tubes, blocks etc. :)
www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540280.html?wid=21&lkid=10621505
Did extruder’s bar screw can be inoxydable? Why did we use only small black carbon screw to lock the extruder instead of long inoxydable? Does this change something ?Thank you
Hi Galinou, thanks for the interesting question. I'm not too sure of the answer to that question to be honest. It may have more to do with heat expansion. Did you find the answer? Feel free to share the answer with us all. :)
Thanks. Wish I had seen this before shearing off the throat tube. But what is the answer to the question below by Phillip Toone 3 weeks ago about the correct way to insert the throat tube? Grateful if you could reply before I shear off another one.
Hi Ian, thanks for the comment and for bringing my attention to a missed comment. I accidentally melted my original PTFE lining so I had to replace it. This new piece is a bit longer than the original and fits the entire throat tube. The original throat tube has the lining butted up to one end and it is that end that you screw towards the nozzle. Failure to do so will allow melted plastic to leak from your heater block/ nozzle join and ruin your prints.
Thanks again for bringing that up as it may have confused some people! 😊
Throat tubes are available here: www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540280.html?wid=21&lkid=10621505
Hi Ian,
Thanks for the response. I must not have made sense. 😛 Sorry. You are right in thinking the tube-end goes down(towards the nozzle). This is what I was trying to say when I wrote "The original throat tube has the lining butted up to one end and it is that end that you screw towards the nozzle." By 'lining' I meant the PTFE tube and 'butted up to one side' meant flush to the end at one end of the throat tube and not so at the other.. Confusing to write without being able to point at things. Haha.
When you're replacement parts come, you can use something to carefully push the tube from one end out the other so it is flush with the edge. Be careful no to perforate or damage the PTFE tube as if there is friction/ resistance between it and your filament, clogs etc become more common.
By the way, it's the plastic tube that creates a 'seal' within the system and allows the filament to feed under pressure and not leak.
I am also in Oz, WA. I have been trying to find a reliable source for these parts without the waiting time but so far it's been Amazon or Gearbest only.
I hope I haven't caused any confusion!
Thanks.
Much better hot end height! I thought you should revise the hot end height in your filament change video.
Thanks for the feedback my man! :) Be safe!
How do you know if the heatblock and the screw for it is the right way up?? Please help
Hi there, my apologies for the late response. We have had a baby and moved house. I haven't made a lot of videos in a while but we are getting back to it! :)
Did you find the answer to this?
Thanks and stay safe! :)
Cool video can't wait to do when my privet arrives
Thanks @TechEverything! Has it arrived yet? 😁
-JMW.
Yes yes it has! sorry for not keeping you posted. Assembled in 4 hours. Had to cut some acrylic and had one more problem The right z axis whit thing needs a bit of lubrication as it keeps jamming the time rod. and the z limit switch has a wire popped off and I could not see under the insulation. I am going to solder that today. After that I will post a video of printing and a review. Thanks for asking! Your videos are very helpful.
I'll keep you posted!!!
Awesome! Shame about all the repairs you've needed to do straight out of the box! I will say though, the community minded part of me is glad it went to someone like you(it sounds like you have the knowledge to fix it) or me. It saddens me when absolute novices get a machine that requires attention yet they lack the ability and are left with an unusable machine and a bad experience. 😊
Keep us posted on your progress. Subscribed. 👍
-JMW.
That is very true. Guess what i fixed it today! I soldered the z limit witch ,it started working again, then i lubricated the right whit thing. That had not fixed the problem completely. Then i realized, why no loosedn the gold thread on the white thing. So i did and voila. I printed a cube!!! Ill keep you posted. Might install my mosfet today if I have time to print the bracket.
Awesome result! Well done! I love success stories! 😃
Thank you very much
Our pleasure! Glad we could help. All the best with printing and stay safe! :)
is it normal if the hot block looks a little tilted to one side?
I have an Anet A8 plus printer, I bought a replacement extruder, but I noticed that the hot block looks a little slanted and not 100% straight, so I wanted to know if it's ok for that to happen, if that doesn't affect much when it comes to to print.
Hello can you tell me who I connect extruder motor on Anet A8 motherboard?
Hi hacker tom,
The actual stepper motor for the extruder plugs into the 'E MOTOR' socket, the thermistor(tiny white wire) plug's into 'E_T' and the hot end will be connected via a terminal connection. If any of this doesn't make sense, please let me know or seek alternative advise. As there are a few variations of the board, I would hate to give incorrect information that could lead to a fault. 😊
Good luck!
Legend
Best comment I might have ever received. :) Thanks bro.
I have a problem with mine.. the motor is spinning but it isn't gripping the filament... how do i tighten it
Is this the Anet A8 you have? There is a chance the spring in the extruder may not be long enough to apply enough tension.
If you manually feed the filament through, does it extrude out the nozzle?
Yes ...I can push it threw and it goes in just fine
Hmm, if it goes through nice and easily when you push it manually, then temp, blockage etc can't be the problem.
There is a chance the spring just isn't long enough. Perhaps see if you can post a video of the problem so I can see what's going on. You can try to apply more pressure to the extruder gear by pressing gently on the feed screw(upwards, not down like you would to insert filament) while letting the motor attempt to extrude.
If this makes the plastic extrude, then you can either buy a longer spring, or try to stretch it out a bit. Remember that if you stretch it, while length will increase, tension may decrease so there is a fine point where this method will become counter-productive.
I hope this helps. 👍🏻
At 0:24 it looks like you put the throat tube in upside down. Isn't the end with the exposed PTFE supposed to go down into the heater block to seal against the nozzle? It looked to me like you put the metal end down into the heater block. Let me know.
Hi Phillip, thanks for the comment and apologies for the late response.
I accidentally melted my original PTFE lining so I had to replace it. This new piece is a bit longer than the original and fits the entire throat tube. The original throat tube has the lining butted up to one end and it is that end that you screw towards the nozzle. Failure to do so will allow melted plastic to leak from your heater block/ nozzle join and ruin your prints.
Thanks again for bringing that up as it may have confused some people! 😊
I installed my tube with PTFE down, then saw that the PTFE is meant to insulate, which I took to mean "above the nozzle" so I flipped it PTFE UP.
It didn't seem to make any difference in printing.
I could not seem to find any web sites saying which way it goes.
I DID notice the end opposite the PTFE was slightly funnel shaped so it made sense for that end to help guide the filament into the middle...
JMW Concepts Hi, the lining butted up to one end means? Hmm that inside the walls of the hole of the tube is not straight but let say 45deg toward outside side of the tube - correct? And there is no teflon at this end - right? And this end we should put toward heat block correct?
Hi, what is the exact type of tube? I have this printer but when trying to fix it, the tube snapped.
Hi Valentina, the throat tube can be found at Gearbest below. I would advice getting some other bits and pieces for as they wear out. Throat tubes, nozzles, heater blocks etc. :)
www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_337314.html?wid=21&lkid=10558912&lkid=10558926
mine is leaking thorough the bottom and the top after changing my nozzle..pls help
Hi Pickles HD, this is when the throat tube is not butted tightly against the nozzle inside the block.
If you follow these instructions you should be fine? Good luck my friend.
Do you know what is extra hole in aluminum block of hotend for?
Ali Moslemi, the extra threaded hole is to add an auto level probe if you want to. :)
Thanks a lot!
Glad we could help, bro. :D
I wouldnt be rapping to much cables... because id say by the next print you would have to change the nosel .. sensor... and heater cables..
Still loving my A8's G Dogg. 😉😂
I'm having issues screwing the fan back to the motor for some reason the screws don't tighten
Hi Derek, sorry for the late response. Did you get this sorted? If not, make sure you're using the right screws. I accidentally got them mixed up with some others that were a little wide for the holes. It took me far too long to work it out.. Haha. Otherwise have you got a video of what's going on? Feel free to post it here for us to see and solve.
I managed to get it sorted, unfortunately I have some filament jammed so gonna have to remove again☹☹
Ahh the pains! It's ok, you get better and faster each time you disassemble. ;)
interesting
Thanks Invention Therapy. (y)
-JMW.
Video's spot on mate - time for a pint of Fosters..?
I'm a VB man, but it sure is! 😆
Thanks +TIM STOTHARD.
Fosters is shite. I'll stand ya to a Crownie though mate.
Yes. This is very good video, but unfortunatelly we couldn't see the most interesting parts because of Your hands :D
Sorry mate! This was one of our earlier videos so I'd like to think that we've learnt a little bit since then. :P
Thanks for the input and stay safe! :)
You shouldn't tighten it when it's cold.
That is true. Thanks for the feedback.
You make very interesting videos but should improve the quality, you block very frequently with parts of your body the real objectives of the video.
Sorry mate! This was one of our earlier videos so I'd like to think that we've learnt a little bit since then. :P
Thanks for the input and stay safe! :)
Fine but I dont see anythink
What don't you see +Sylvain?
Like the video but your printer is so dirty :(
Thanks +RazorProductions. It is isn't it? It needs a good clean. I hold out though because every time I clean my heated bed, it takes a few failed prints to get nice adhesion back. Lol. 😂
I have never tried it before, but in theory it should work. You buy a mirror and sandblast or sand the mirror side of it, make sure not to touch the glass part, and you can clean it all you want. Plus, it should make abs and pla stick like they were married.
+RazorProductions, a lot of guys do print straight on glass or mirror but I think they keep it slick. You see some super smooth bottom layers off glass. I want to try it now.. 😂
Yeh but the thing is printing straight on there is a hit and miss, and when you put glass on your heat bed I recommend waiting 10 minutes after printer says it's done heating. This is for the heat to transfer throughout the glass. The reason I say hit and miss is because there is not a lot of grip on the mirror or glass, so a very fine sandpaper will get you a mediocre bottom layer and awesome adhesion. Since mirrors are pretty cheap, I would test printing on it with and without sanded mirrors if you want. All you would need to do is switch the side of the mirror, glass is the flat side, and the mirror being the sanded side.
Yeah it could be interesting. wonder if you could just use regular glass out of a picture frame or if it would want to be thicker.. Maybe experiment time! Although I'm busy with another project right this second. ;)
Nice, but music is too loud. As loud as your voice, which is fine by nowadays standards, which mean it's too loud.
Haha. Sorry mate! This was one of our earlier videos so I'd like to think that we've learnt a little bit since then. :P
Thanks for the input and stay safe! :)