Nice job reproducing the missing parts. I have that same Lisle grinder and love it. The one thing I didn't see you use is the Magnet Gauge (P/N 90420). It is shown in photo 6 and described in step IV. Not sure how important that distance is. Just thought I would mention it. Thanks for the video.
Nice, I operated a 91000 drill grinders in 2 buildings for years. Pro tip A: after locking the depth collar stop knob, turn in the depth adjustment knob a little further (it will move a little more), & grind a little more, but move the stroke a lot slower & the finish will improve. When you turn the drill bit 180 deg & grind to the end of the depth stop collar & can't turn the adj. knob any further, now you matched the identical height you dialed in & ground "just a little bit more" on the first ground edge. If you fail to adj. that "little bit more" on the first edge, it will remain slightlhy higher than the second edge which you Did go all the way to the stop collar with the adj. knob. Try it & it will make sense when you tighten the lock collar & you can still turn the adj. knob a little bit more After you tighten the lock collar. Pro tip B: Wrap a piece of 120 grit sandpaper around a wood dowel & lay it into the flute groove just under the cutting edge & slide the dowel up the flute to remove the dwarf/debris that bent over into the flute. 2 or 3 swipes should do. Dual chip curls every time, Sweet!
Nice thank you for the input! I haven't spent much time grinding drills and I need to sit down and get some cleaned up since I have the right tool for the job. I'll keep this in mind when I sit down to use it some more.
tip..metal tab that is for orientation of 2nd side. dont swing it out til you are done on 1st side and you won't grind tab by accident. just do it before you unclamp drill after grinding 1st side. them tabs are impossible to get so you dont want too damage it
Those grinders sure look nice! I've ground enough drills by hand to know how useful a machine like this would be! Keep up the good work with the videos! I know how much effort goes into filming and editing. It looks like you are on the right track!
I think the reason for the finish coming up as it did was because if I'm not mistaken you didn't dress your stone, which is needed if you have a new stone in there, and also you may want to move the drill more slowly when doing the final touch. I wouldn't buy a finer stone, the bastards clog up so easily
I dressed the stone before I started. So far, I’ve found if I move the drill too slowly it gets really hot. Will have to keep experimenting to get better results.
Thanks for the functional explanation, demonstration.....and for the effort to post the vid. Recommendation for future.....try not to use the term "this guy" to describe component of a device.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop i agree with you. I hope that some day my channel will benefit from a youtube check every month. It does help keep the channel moving forward. And yes its minimal per view at first. But if done right , you can live purity darn good off TH-cam. Best of luck with your channel.
Why oh why is the US obsessed with monkey wrenches on what is basically precision equipment.... It comes up so often....I started on a Bridge Port @16 in 1977...so learnt the apprentice way.
I wouldn’t call a shop made stud and hardware store hex screws precision, but I get your point. I typically only use adjustable wrenches in my videos for convenience and speed of filming (don’t have to go back to the tool box if I grab the wrong size), or if I’m having to climb around stuff to get to what I’m working on. I have a nice selection of mechanics tools so I almost always grab the proper wrench or socket.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop The drill grinder is a precision bit of kit...engineering is not convenience it is about making the right procedures in the correct steps... Sorry to say but being a filmmaker is not a prerequisite to being a toolmaker, doing an apprenticeship like me and millions of tool makes machinists have done is nothing to do with filming... If I get a spare min I sometimes film a bit of machine work but don't spend all day filming just running the mill/lathe. th-cam.com/video/AUiFNZ9WU0k/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hYoeY9jxZuU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/ZAZ-f2VGAiM/w-d-xo.html
Ok, but I didn’t use the adjustable wrench on any precision parts or on anything that wasn’t made to be turned with such a tool. Using a 1-2-3 block as a hammer would qualify as the wrong way to use it and a bad thing to do. Using a wrench on a hex screw is exactly what it is for. I’m just a guy in his garage learning- I have no training whatsoever and make plenty of mistakes...I just don’t see how using the crescent wrench was one of them.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop The difference is reaching for a pointed TAP to dot a centre for a drill or finding the centre punch. use what you like as it is your channel. But don't make excuses for short cuts...I am out....
That's not a monkey wrench, it's an adjustable spanner, monkey wrenches have a spring loaded head that loosens its grip as you move it back and grips when you pull on it, usually on pipes or conduit
If you look closely at the freshly ground drill bit, you'll notice that the cutting edges have a little sickle shape to them, but they are supposed to be straight. I think it's due to the drill bit not being oriented properly in rotation. The rule of thumb is, the cutting edge is supposed to be horizontal. As in parallel to the axis of the wheel. Anyway, I think that's what's going on there.
This is only true for hand sharpened drills, factory grinds on bigger drills and also grinds produced by many drill grinders have the edge not parallel to the spindle but the side higher than the center. I know what it does so I tell you: it makes your effective back clearance vary along the edge, being greater in the center where greater clearance is needed, and less in the outer edge thus making it stronger (which is very welcome).
@@MF175mp What you're saying might or might not be true. Rotating the drill bit like might produce more clearance in the center, or it might produce more clearance on the periphery. However, I just looked up Lisle manual for this machine and it says the lips should be straight and parallel.
@@LambertZero I've seen that from the factory new 35-50mm drills I had. They were not done exactly by that, I know, but it effectively brings the drill closer to the factory style grind. The Lisle way may be as you said, it will produce a good drill anyway (the grind in the video has just got a bit too much clearance)
@@MF175mp I'd argue that the drill in the video has too much clearance on the periphery and not enough in the center. As indicated by the angle between the chisel point and the cutting lips. If the clearance is uniform, it'll be at 45 degrees, if the center has too much clearance it'll be less than 45, and if it doesn't have enough, the angle will be greater than 45. And I suspect that the drill not being oriented in rotation during grinding is exactly the reason why.
The 3 videos on the Lisle 91000 grinder were very helpful as I am missing some of the same parts on one I bought recently. One suggestion: instead of calling a part "this guy" use the name found in the instruction manual--it would help avoid any confusion.
might be a good idea to cover the sticker and plate with a thin piece of pre bend plexyglass cover , just fasten it with two small rivits , its eazier to get a new piece of clear plexy than it is to get new stickers , then again you could photocopy the stickers for later use and print new ones using a inkjet printer
I like what you done here but, the sharpener itself seems very fussy. I cant imagine wanting to make all if those settings when sharpening a bunch of different sized drills.
While this grinder is decent. It is not very user friendly. You have to have some time to get things right. I had two of these in my shop. Bought a darex M5 very simple to use. And very easy to set up. 20 years later still using the thing with the CBN plated wheels. Step drills, not an issue. Brad points? Not an issue. Split points? Easy least! Plus you can grind any angle you want for the application you need. But just like these, they don’t make them anymore! But if your at an auction or find one that’s for sale. You may want to check it out!! I would also recommend not to use a rock wheel. To many variables!!! Go wilts a plated. Way more expensive. But will last forever!! Been doing industrial grinding for 25 years. So maybe I may know a little bit. 😊 oh, you may want to thin the web a bit. The drill will cut a little better. Just an opinion.
Thanks for the suggestions. I’d love a Darex but as seldom as these types of things come up, I’m not holding my breath on seeing one haha. Have a brand preference on the wheels?
I have someone who will make me the diamond dresser holder. Can you reply with the dimensions of the part and what diamond dresser you used in it? I'm in the middle of restoring two 91000's at the moment.
Sure- small diameter is .491” large diameter is .875. Small end is 2.118” long, large end is 2.428”. Diamond dresser is .356” from the large end. Scribe mark is 10° off the diamond as shown in the video, so the diamond points downward when the scribe line matches with the turret scribe line. Hope that helps.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop any chance you have the tool that removes the grinding wheel nut? I am trying to find one, it looks like a 2" spanner with a 1/8" pin. The tool lisle says is for that, that they still have is only $2.50 so I doubt that's the right tool. Can you email me a picture of it if you have it? Ty. antilleslp at Hotmail.com
You shouldn’t need a tool to remove it. You don’t need a lot of clamping force on grinding stones. Are you trying to remove it backwards? It is left hand threaded so righty loosey lefty tighty.
Have a drill sharpener is someting that every shop needs, especally on smaller drills. Neat job on the parts and getting the drill grinder up
Nice machine to have in the shop especially for those (expensive to replace) bigger sizes
Nice job reproducing the missing parts. I have that same Lisle grinder and love it. The one thing I didn't see you use is the Magnet Gauge (P/N 90420). It is shown in photo 6 and described in step IV. Not sure how important that distance is. Just thought I would mention it. Thanks for the video.
Nice, I operated a 91000 drill grinders in 2 buildings for years. Pro tip A: after locking the depth collar stop knob, turn in the depth adjustment knob a little further (it will move a little more), & grind a little more, but move the stroke a lot slower & the finish will improve. When you turn the drill bit 180 deg & grind to the end of the depth stop collar & can't turn the adj. knob any further, now you matched the identical height you dialed in & ground "just a little bit more" on the first ground edge. If you fail to adj. that "little bit more" on the first edge, it will remain slightlhy higher than the second edge which you Did go all the way to the stop collar with the adj. knob. Try it & it will make sense when you tighten the lock collar & you can still turn the adj. knob a little bit more After you tighten the lock collar. Pro tip B: Wrap a piece of 120 grit sandpaper around a wood dowel & lay it into the flute groove just under the cutting edge & slide the dowel up the flute to remove the dwarf/debris that bent over into the flute. 2 or 3 swipes should do. Dual chip curls every time, Sweet!
Nice thank you for the input! I haven't spent much time grinding drills and I need to sit down and get some cleaned up since I have the right tool for the job. I'll keep this in mind when I sit down to use it some more.
Great rebuild, and great t-shirt.
Well worth the effort you put into it
I'm going to pack up all my drills and come by and sharpen them :)
Ha I need my pile fixed up first!
Great video!👍🏻
You need to use an auxiliary monitor so you can get the objects in the frame. Comes with practice
This is a good informative video. Thanks for posting.
GOOD JOB WELL DONE.
I like your shirt. Wish we could see the rest of it.
tip..metal tab that is for orientation of 2nd side. dont swing it out til you are done on 1st side and you won't grind tab by accident. just do it before you unclamp drill after grinding 1st side. them tabs are impossible to get so you dont want too damage it
I guess something like that has to be pretty fidley to use at least until you get used to it. Thanks
Buy sae grade 8 washers they fit the bolts.
Thanks
does anyone know where to get the diamond dressing attachment?
Those grinders sure look nice! I've ground enough drills by hand to know how useful a machine like this would be! Keep up the good work with the videos! I know how much effort goes into filming and editing. It looks like you are on the right track!
Thanks Connor!
Well presented, KOKO
I think the reason for the finish coming up as it did was because if I'm not mistaken you didn't dress your stone, which is needed if you have a new stone in there, and also you may want to move the drill more slowly when doing the final touch. I wouldn't buy a finer stone, the bastards clog up so easily
I dressed the stone before I started. So far, I’ve found if I move the drill too slowly it gets really hot. Will have to keep experimenting to get better results.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop the dressing can cause such problems if you moved the diamond too slowly, or the diamond wasn't sharp enough 🤔
You have to throw away that crescent wrench.
Please use box wrenches.
Thanks for the functional explanation, demonstration.....and for the effort to post the vid. Recommendation for future.....try not to use the term "this guy" to describe component of a device.
enjoyed
Train Cody how to sharpen drills and maybe he can start a nice little business.
5 adds in a 20min video.... 👎 good job on the grinder. 👍
Yikes. That’s a lot ☹️
ad block is your friend :)
Adblock is an option, but you’re taking away the minimal money creators make when you use it.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop i agree with you. I hope that some day my channel will benefit from a youtube check every month. It does help keep the channel moving forward. And yes its minimal per view at first. But if done right , you can live purity darn good off TH-cam. Best of luck with your channel.
More ads please. Lol
I feel like your talking to children with all the little GUYES
Why oh why is the US obsessed with monkey wrenches on what is basically precision equipment....
It comes up so often....I started on a Bridge Port @16 in 1977...so learnt the apprentice way.
I wouldn’t call a shop made stud and hardware store hex screws precision, but I get your point. I typically only use adjustable wrenches in my videos for convenience and speed of filming (don’t have to go back to the tool box if I grab the wrong size), or if I’m having to climb around stuff to get to what I’m working on. I have a nice selection of mechanics tools so I almost always grab the proper wrench or socket.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop
The drill grinder is a precision bit of kit...engineering is not convenience it is about making the right procedures in the correct steps...
Sorry to say but being a filmmaker is not a prerequisite to being a toolmaker, doing an apprenticeship like me and millions of tool makes machinists have done is nothing to do with filming...
If I get a spare min I sometimes film a bit of machine work but don't spend all day filming just running the mill/lathe.
th-cam.com/video/AUiFNZ9WU0k/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/hYoeY9jxZuU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/ZAZ-f2VGAiM/w-d-xo.html
Ok, but I didn’t use the adjustable wrench on any precision parts or on anything that wasn’t made to be turned with such a tool. Using a 1-2-3 block as a hammer would qualify as the wrong way to use it and a bad thing to do. Using a wrench on a hex screw is exactly what it is for. I’m just a guy in his garage learning- I have no training whatsoever and make plenty of mistakes...I just don’t see how using the crescent wrench was one of them.
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop The difference is reaching for a pointed TAP to dot a centre for a drill or finding the centre punch. use what you like as it is your channel.
But don't make excuses for short cuts...I am out....
That's not a monkey wrench, it's an adjustable spanner, monkey wrenches have a spring loaded head that loosens its grip as you move it back and grips when you pull on it, usually on pipes or conduit
If you look closely at the freshly ground drill bit, you'll notice that the cutting edges have a little sickle shape to them, but they are supposed to be straight. I think it's due to the drill bit not being oriented properly in rotation. The rule of thumb is, the cutting edge is supposed to be horizontal. As in parallel to the axis of the wheel. Anyway, I think that's what's going on there.
Thanks for pointing that out. I’m still brand new to this so I’ll keep an eye out for that.
This is only true for hand sharpened drills, factory grinds on bigger drills and also grinds produced by many drill grinders have the edge not parallel to the spindle but the side higher than the center. I know what it does so I tell you: it makes your effective back clearance vary along the edge, being greater in the center where greater clearance is needed, and less in the outer edge thus making it stronger (which is very welcome).
@@MF175mp What you're saying might or might not be true. Rotating the drill bit like might produce more clearance in the center, or it might produce more clearance on the periphery. However, I just looked up Lisle manual for this machine and it says the lips should be straight and parallel.
@@LambertZero I've seen that from the factory new 35-50mm drills I had. They were not done exactly by that, I know, but it effectively brings the drill closer to the factory style grind. The Lisle way may be as you said, it will produce a good drill anyway (the grind in the video has just got a bit too much clearance)
@@MF175mp I'd argue that the drill in the video has too much clearance on the periphery and not enough in the center. As indicated by the angle between the chisel point and the cutting lips. If the clearance is uniform, it'll be at 45 degrees, if the center has too much clearance it'll be less than 45, and if it doesn't have enough, the angle will be greater than 45. And I suspect that the drill not being oriented in rotation during grinding is exactly the reason why.
Well done!
The 3 videos on the Lisle 91000 grinder were very helpful as I am missing some of the same parts on one I bought recently. One suggestion: instead of calling a part "this guy" use the name found in the instruction manual--it would help avoid any confusion.
Nice series, thanks.
Nicely done.
Can anyone tell me if the knurled thumb screws on the sliding drill guide and stop are 1/4-28 thread? Mine are missing. Thanks
might be a good idea to cover the sticker and plate with a thin piece of pre bend plexyglass cover , just fasten it with two small rivits , its eazier to get a new piece of clear plexy than it is to get new stickers , then again you could photocopy the stickers for later use and print new ones using a inkjet printer
Hey that’s a good idea! I’ve been thinking about how to protect it and hadn’t thought of that.
Clear nail polish works, just don't let the missus catch you!
What's your machine shop specialize in repairs , Hobby shop ?. 😨
Don’t really specialize in anything. Restoring small machines and vises mostly. Also make parts when a job comes up for pay but that’s not too common.
I like what you done here but, the sharpener itself seems very fussy. I cant imagine wanting to make all if those settings when sharpening a bunch of different sized drills.
It’s not as bad as it looks. When I watched @abom79’s video of how to use it, it looks like a pain. In real use it’s pretty quick and easy.
If you have a bunch of all sizes, you don't have to do that for just one drill. Wait until they're all dull and then sharpen them
You have an engraver yes? take to 11 with engraved graduations
While this grinder is decent. It is not very user friendly. You have to have some time to get things right. I had two of these in my shop. Bought a darex M5 very simple to use. And very easy to set up. 20 years later still using the thing with the CBN plated wheels. Step drills, not an issue. Brad points? Not an issue. Split points? Easy least! Plus you can grind any angle you want for the application you need. But just like these, they don’t make them anymore! But if your at an auction or find one that’s for sale. You may want to check it out!! I would also recommend not to use a rock wheel. To many variables!!! Go wilts a plated. Way more expensive. But will last forever!! Been doing industrial grinding for 25 years. So maybe I may know a little bit. 😊 oh, you may want to thin the web a bit. The drill will cut a little better. Just an opinion.
Thanks for the suggestions. I’d love a Darex but as seldom as these types of things come up, I’m not holding my breath on seeing one haha. Have a brand preference on the wheels?
AlwaysSunnyintheShop I get all of my wheels from Radiac abrasives. I don’t use many rock wheels. Mostly all super abrasives.
I have someone who will make me the diamond dresser holder. Can you reply with the dimensions of the part and what diamond dresser you used in it? I'm in the middle of restoring two 91000's at the moment.
Sure- small diameter is .491” large diameter is .875. Small end is 2.118” long, large end is 2.428”. Diamond dresser is .356” from the large end. Scribe mark is 10° off the diamond as shown in the video, so the diamond points downward when the scribe line matches with the turret scribe line. Hope that helps.
AlwaysSunnyintheShop thank you, what diamond dresser did you use. I see about 50 different sizes on msc and mcmaster
@@AlwaysSunnyintheShop any chance you have the tool that removes the grinding wheel nut? I am trying to find one, it looks like a 2" spanner with a 1/8" pin. The tool lisle says is for that, that they still have is only $2.50 so I doubt that's the right tool. Can you email me a picture of it if you have it? Ty. antilleslp at Hotmail.com
You shouldn’t need a tool to remove it. You don’t need a lot of clamping force on grinding stones. Are you trying to remove it backwards? It is left hand threaded so righty loosey lefty tighty.
In the UK the drill is the machine, we talk about drill bits, when meaning the items that make the holes. Just saying...
Can this machine do split-point sharpening?