Nice video, thanks. A week or two ago a thought occurred to me. Thought I'd share it with you. Tarp tie-outs with no knots or gadgets. Use woopie slings. I made some from 15 or 20 lb. braided mason line. The nylon line is strong enough to hold in wind, but weak enough to break before the tarp rips, it's also cheap, about 5$ for a 2 or 300' spool. Larks head it on to the tarp, where it stays attached. Place the stake in the ground put the loop over it and snug it up.
Very nice, and a good idea for many! I've not tried this, but have done the direct line (Zing-It, paracord, and other "tarp line") before and it works perfectly, but I do prefer the shock cord in my setups now. Not only wind, but accidental tripping, esp at night, standing up inside, etc., it just adds an extra barrier of "give". Thanks for the input as it might help other viewers! Cheers
Thx very informative. I’m brand new to hammock camping and shud b receiving my superfly by the end of the week. This will help a bunch but I may have a few more questions for u. Again thx for doing this for us
@@ST-hs7vz yes. And should any of it be helpful to others, everyone has access. So, if you have a question, please feel free to start a NEW comment so others can see it! Cheers
Great video, great product, I wish I could give you a thumbs up every time I watched the video. Everything you showed on the video was new to me except the warbonnet. Very interested in the lines you was using. Great substitute for paracord..
@@scottcamp7423 If you get the Zing-It spools, you can cut it however long you need and then splice the ends if desired. I’ll have to check on mine. Not sure, but maybe 20 feet or so.
There are multiple door anchors on their updated website. Which one did you use. Didn't see a close-up shot of them. I love the set up you made for the doors.
Hummm. It looks like the one I use is no longer available. Mine is just a simple plastic hook for less than $2. When I go back to my online order history, the items have hyperlinks to the product page from the invoice and that no longer has a link. It appears that they've updated the product line to all titanium. Honestly, the mitten hooks I have linked might work in a similar way. When I get home today I'll double check what they look like and see if there is a suitable/similar replacement. The updated versions are 2x or more the price and have double clips. This could be advantageous to hook through BOTH sides of a bungee LOOP at once, but it's probably overkill. Based on a quick look at the lineup, if I had to pick one today, it would be the Ringworm version as the "ring" portion will attach to the shock cord better than the larger slit-style layouts of the others- like how I used a the ringworm single clip on corner guy outs. The other versions are webbing based and on a round bungee wouldn't work as well. Thanks for letting me know!
I just double checked, and the door clips do appear to be discontinued. However, both the orange and green bungees that I use in my setup will fit within the hook opening on the traditional ringworm. So, if I were purchasing today, I would either spring for the new ringworm version of the door clip mentioned in my previous comment with the double hooks, or just go with the original ringworm which I demonstrated in the corner guy out points. It latches in much the same way as the clips I used, the plastic ones are just less expensive. Cheers
Fantastic video. One of the most intimidating parts of getting in to hammock camping is suspending everything. This makes everything seem so easy to do. Inspiring! Can you explain the shock cord on the doors? Are they just loops of shock cord with carabiners/clips on the end?
Glad it was helpful! Yes! That’s exactly how I rig it. Looped through the corner ring on one end and and a clip on the other. Clip it to the opposite door bungee to hold the doors inward or to the opposite lower corner to keep them closed when desired.
Th k you! Ha, that’s my mic pack. It’s a Rode Wireless Go clipped to the hat strap and I have a lav mic coiled inside and mounted under the bill for audio.
Good video, I was getting confused what I should buy with all the Dutch hardware, and it's silly he doesn't have all the hardware under one tab on the site! Lol but thanks
@@mbeckde Hey! This is entirely up to each user actually. My Ridgeline is probably around 20 to 24 feet, I haven’t measured it, and each of my guy outlined is about 6 feet. Again, some backpackers may wanna carry more because of tree distances, some may want to carry less just because it’s more convenient. A spool of zing it will have more than enough for anything you would need to create.
I really appreciate you sharing this setup. I went ahead and bought all the components you listed and went with extra ringworms instead of the fleas. I was wondering how you did the "secure loop" on the ringworms for the ridgeline ends if you can explain what you meant. Also perhaps a link to where to learn the different knots you used?
Hey Sami! So glad you found it helpful. The "secure loop" on the ridgeline (and side pullouts and for the Fleaz) is a "dog bone" loop created with the Zing-It. In short, you use a splicing needle (like I'v'e linked in the description) to run the Zing-It end THROUGH itself - creating the loop for the Dutch hook, then back INTO itself creating like a Chinese finger trap - much like a whoopie sling, if you've ever used one. It's not very hard to do, but you'll need the needle and a sharp blade to trim down the fibers in the zing it. Actually, Dutch made a video demonstrating how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/MSr05a4qH2k/w-d-xo.html. To make the line-end berries and the Zing-It loops I used for prusik knots, its all the same technique - passing the line back through itself to make a closed loop. There are videos on that too! As for the knots, I don't recall using any in this setup as the gear allows you to quickly secure lines without them. I did mention the prusik knot/loop for the gray lines and REI has a great, short video on how to implement it here: th-cam.com/video/EFHxQ5fiUvI/w-d-xo.html Hope this helps. Cheers!
@@OneDegreeLife I got all the stakes’ lines done but was not able to see the shock cord knot? you used to make the big loops on the corners of the tarp. Any advice on that would be much appreciated!
@@samiserrag Hey again! Nothing special there, actually. I basically took the two ends of the shock cord and tied an overhand loop as tight as I could, and then burned the tips down with a lighter to make a ring. Then, it's just a matter of running it through the tarp ring and back through itself. In my setup, I obviously ran the shock cord through the ring worm before making the overhand loop. I just did a quick search and here's a video on how to do an overhand loop just in case. It's a fishing line video, but the principle is the same. Hope that helps! th-cam.com/video/Y9ZNxTjZHRE/w-d-xo.html
Hey, Matthew. I don’t have the gear right in front of me, or I would measure it for you. Because the side pull outs I run in a long loop for convenience, I believe that zing it is around nine or 10 feet in total. If you want to Create side guy out that simply link to each pull out on the tarp, making a simple V, you could probably do something in the 6 to 7 foot range. You just want to make sure there’s enough distance to get whatever your anchor is away from the side a fair bit. If it’s too short, it can be hard to get good tension without it being right against the tarp. For the door shock cord distance, that’s actually going to vary quite a bit depending on the thickness and/or strength of your shot cord. For example, if you go with a thicker cord, the length is going to have to be longer because there will be less give. Inversely, the thinner or the weaker the cord, the shorter the distance you can get away with. For my set up, I think they’re right around 14 or 16 inches because the cord is not very tense. If you were wanting to use the bungee to secure the doors in place on the inside like I did, and do the cross latch to keep them shut, my recommendation is to fold the door inward toward the center, measure the distance between the corner anchor point and the center of the tarp, just eyeball it, then create a loop that measures that span when put under moderate tension. I wouldn’t max it out for obvious reasons. Hope this helps! Sorry I can’t be more specific with the bungee distances, but I’m sure you understand why given the variance in quality in thickness of various shock cord.
The pack for the line and stakes is one that came with a Big Agnes tent I have I believe. I show in the video how I’ve “locked” the ZingIt through the hole in the stakes, then attach that back to the ringworms or fleaz. Since the zing it is already attached, I just wrap it down the stake. Think about it like like string around a spool. Cheers!
@@OneDegreeLife I rewatched and think I missed the part on locking. It looks spliced on the stake? Where is this in the video? Sorry...just love this organization.
Why wouldn’t you leave the tarp attached to the ridgeline when breaking down camp and slide the snakeskins over everything? Makes for way faster setup when the tarp is already attached to its ridgeline prussiks.
Yes, that’s a great idea and I know many campers do just that. For me, there are two reason why I don’t prefer it: 1. Setting up a line first is just easier without all the weight on it. It’s just a preference though, not a rule. 2. The style prusik I use with the knot/loop attachment can come apart when tension is removed. I have done it before, but for THIS setup, it doesn’t work quite as well. However, if I’m trying to breakdown quickly, like if a storm is rolling in, I would still do it for speed. When there isn’t tension, the knot can disengage from the loop and the. If you had permanent loops on the tarp ends, it would work a little better. Doesn’t mean you CAN’T still do it and that it will necessarily come unhooked, but I experienced it, so I just separate the two. Thanks for the comment!
![The Trucker's Hitch...But Better. [Auto-Locking]](/img/n.gif)
Great vid! I've practically lived in my warbonnet Blackbird xlc for a year I highly recommend.
That was my first Warbonnet! Great hammock.
Great ideas on securing/overlapping the doors. Many thanks. Extra prusiks on the ridge line are a great idea, too.
Thank you, Wolf!
@@OneDegreeLife This video got referenced in a post on r/hammockcamping, specifically the bit about securing the doors, so I came to check it out.😀
@@wolf1066 That’s awesome! Thank you for letting me know!
@@OneDegreeLife No prob. Thanks for the informative video.
Nice video, thanks.
A week or two ago a thought occurred to me. Thought I'd share it with you.
Tarp tie-outs with no knots or gadgets. Use woopie slings.
I made some from 15 or 20 lb. braided mason line. The nylon line is strong enough to hold in wind, but weak enough to break before the tarp rips, it's also cheap, about 5$ for a 2 or 300' spool.
Larks head it on to the tarp, where it stays attached. Place the stake in the ground put the loop over it and snug it up.
Very nice, and a good idea for many! I've not tried this, but have done the direct line (Zing-It, paracord, and other "tarp line") before and it works perfectly, but I do prefer the shock cord in my setups now. Not only wind, but accidental tripping, esp at night, standing up inside, etc., it just adds an extra barrier of "give". Thanks for the input as it might help other viewers! Cheers
super good info, man! i actually like the loop on the tarp-side better too. great vid
Thanks for the comment! Glad it was helpful
Thx very informative. I’m brand new to hammock camping and shud b receiving my superfly by the end of the week. This will help a bunch but I may have a few more questions for u. Again thx for doing this for us
You bet! I hope you enjoy it!
@@OneDegreeLife is replying to u here the best way to ask u questions?
@@ST-hs7vz yes. And should any of it be helpful to others, everyone has access. So, if you have a question, please feel free to start a NEW comment so others can see it! Cheers
Love the bling!
Great video, great product, I wish I could give you a thumbs up every time I watched the video. Everything you showed on the video was new to me except the warbonnet. Very interested in the lines you was using. Great substitute for paracord..
Thank you so much for the feedback. Glad it was informative! Cheers
@@OneDegreeLife I ment to ask how long is your ridge line? I looked on the link below and it seems they only come. in 12 ' pieces
@@scottcamp7423 If you get the Zing-It spools, you can cut it however long you need and then splice the ends if desired. I’ll have to check on mine. Not sure, but maybe 20 feet or so.
Dude... Solid video. Thank you.
Excellent video. Thank you. Can you please please show a list of all your hardware, prusics and lines. Please
Thank you! There is a list in the video description with links to the gear I use. Hope that helps.
Great video very helpful thanks great ideas too thank you
There are multiple door anchors on their updated website. Which one did you use. Didn't see a close-up shot of them. I love the set up you made for the doors.
Hummm. It looks like the one I use is no longer available. Mine is just a simple plastic hook for less than $2. When I go back to my online order history, the items have hyperlinks to the product page from the invoice and that no longer has a link. It appears that they've updated the product line to all titanium. Honestly, the mitten hooks I have linked might work in a similar way. When I get home today I'll double check what they look like and see if there is a suitable/similar replacement. The updated versions are 2x or more the price and have double clips. This could be advantageous to hook through BOTH sides of a bungee LOOP at once, but it's probably overkill.
Based on a quick look at the lineup, if I had to pick one today, it would be the Ringworm version as the "ring" portion will attach to the shock cord better than the larger slit-style layouts of the others- like how I used a the ringworm single clip on corner guy outs. The other versions are webbing based and on a round bungee wouldn't work as well. Thanks for letting me know!
I just double checked, and the door clips do appear to be discontinued. However, both the orange and green bungees that I use in my setup will fit within the hook opening on the traditional ringworm. So, if I were purchasing today, I would either spring for the new ringworm version of the door clip mentioned in my previous comment with the double hooks, or just go with the original ringworm which I demonstrated in the corner guy out points. It latches in much the same way as the clips I used, the plastic ones are just less expensive. Cheers
Fantastic video. One of the most intimidating parts of getting in to hammock camping is suspending everything. This makes everything seem so easy to do. Inspiring!
Can you explain the shock cord on the doors? Are they just loops of shock cord with carabiners/clips on the end?
Glad it was helpful!
Yes! That’s exactly how I rig it. Looped through the corner ring on one end and and a clip on the other. Clip it to the opposite door bungee to hold the doors inward or to the opposite lower corner to keep them closed when desired.
How do you tie the dog bone end and the opposing loop end for the ones you leave on the ridge line with the prusik?
Those are soft shackles, which are slightly different than dog bones... they self close over the stopper knot.
Great video with some really helpful tips! What is the pack on the back of your hat?
Th k you! Ha, that’s my mic pack. It’s a Rode Wireless Go clipped to the hat strap and I have a lav mic coiled inside and mounted under the bill for audio.
Good video, I was getting confused what I should buy with all the Dutch hardware, and it's silly he doesn't have all the hardware under one tab on the site! Lol but thanks
I know exactly what you mean. There’s a lot to choose from, but it’s scattered, you’re right about that.
Would have liked line lengths as well
@@mbeckde Hey! This is entirely up to each user actually. My Ridgeline is probably around 20 to 24 feet, I haven’t measured it, and each of my guy outlined is about 6 feet. Again, some backpackers may wanna carry more because of tree distances, some may want to carry less just because it’s more convenient. A spool of zing it will have more than enough for anything you would need to create.
Could you leave your ridgeline hooked up to your tarp and save everything it the same way that you normally do?
I really appreciate you sharing this setup. I went ahead and bought all the components you listed and went with extra ringworms instead of the fleas. I was wondering how you did the "secure loop" on the ringworms for the ridgeline ends if you can explain what you meant. Also perhaps a link to where to learn the different knots you used?
Hey Sami! So glad you found it helpful. The "secure loop" on the ridgeline (and side pullouts and for the Fleaz) is a "dog bone" loop created with the Zing-It. In short, you use a splicing needle (like I'v'e linked in the description) to run the Zing-It end THROUGH itself - creating the loop for the Dutch hook, then back INTO itself creating like a Chinese finger trap - much like a whoopie sling, if you've ever used one. It's not very hard to do, but you'll need the needle and a sharp blade to trim down the fibers in the zing it. Actually, Dutch made a video demonstrating how to do it here: th-cam.com/video/MSr05a4qH2k/w-d-xo.html. To make the line-end berries and the Zing-It loops I used for prusik knots, its all the same technique - passing the line back through itself to make a closed loop. There are videos on that too!
As for the knots, I don't recall using any in this setup as the gear allows you to quickly secure lines without them. I did mention the prusik knot/loop for the gray lines and REI has a great, short video on how to implement it here: th-cam.com/video/EFHxQ5fiUvI/w-d-xo.html
Hope this helps. Cheers!
@@OneDegreeLife you sir are a wealth of knowledge and I can’t thank you enough!
@@samiserrag my pleasure!
@@OneDegreeLife I got all the stakes’ lines done but was not able to see the shock cord knot? you used to make the big loops on the corners of the tarp. Any advice on that would be much appreciated!
@@samiserrag Hey again! Nothing special there, actually. I basically took the two ends of the shock cord and tied an overhand loop as tight as I could, and then burned the tips down with a lighter to make a ring. Then, it's just a matter of running it through the tarp ring and back through itself. In my setup, I obviously ran the shock cord through the ring worm before making the overhand loop. I just did a quick search and here's a video on how to do an overhand loop just in case. It's a fishing line video, but the principle is the same. Hope that helps!
th-cam.com/video/Y9ZNxTjZHRE/w-d-xo.html
For the tie out lines to pull the middle does anyone know about how long the zing-it is? Same question for the door shock cord
Hey, Matthew. I don’t have the gear right in front of me, or I would measure it for you. Because the side pull outs I run in a long loop for convenience, I believe that zing it is around nine or 10 feet in total. If you want to Create side guy out that simply link to each pull out on the tarp, making a simple V, you could probably do something in the 6 to 7 foot range. You just want to make sure there’s enough distance to get whatever your anchor is away from the side a fair bit. If it’s too short, it can be hard to get good tension without it being right against the tarp.
For the door shock cord distance, that’s actually going to vary quite a bit depending on the thickness and/or strength of your shot cord. For example, if you go with a thicker cord, the length is going to have to be longer because there will be less give. Inversely, the thinner or the weaker the cord, the shorter the distance you can get away with. For my set up, I think they’re right around 14 or 16 inches because the cord is not very tense. If you were wanting to use the bungee to secure the doors in place on the inside like I did, and do the cross latch to keep them shut, my recommendation is to fold the door inward toward the center, measure the distance between the corner anchor point and the center of the tarp, just eyeball it, then create a loop that measures that span when put under moderate tension. I wouldn’t max it out for obvious reasons.
Hope this helps! Sorry I can’t be more specific with the bungee distances, but I’m sure you understand why given the variance in quality in thickness of various shock cord.
Stuff sack for the stakes? Also, how are you wrapping stakes?
The pack for the line and stakes is one that came with a Big Agnes tent I have I believe.
I show in the video how I’ve “locked” the ZingIt through the hole in the stakes, then attach that back to the ringworms or fleaz. Since the zing it is already attached, I just wrap it down the stake. Think about it like like string around a spool.
Cheers!
@@OneDegreeLife I rewatched and think I missed the part on locking. It looks spliced on the stake? Where is this in the video? Sorry...just love this organization.
@@MS1383 Try 11:28 to 11:50
@@MS1383 yes, it’s spliced onto the zing-it!
Question here, when referring to " dutchgear" is it "duthware" gear?
Yes. My apologies
Oh I c now where u can buy them from dutchware
Why wouldn’t you leave the tarp attached to the ridgeline when breaking down camp and slide the snakeskins over everything?
Makes for way faster setup when the tarp is already attached to its ridgeline prussiks.
Yes, that’s a great idea and I know many campers do just that. For me, there are two reason why I don’t prefer it:
1. Setting up a line first is just easier without all the weight on it. It’s just a preference though, not a rule.
2. The style prusik I use with the knot/loop attachment can come apart when tension is removed.
I have done it before, but for THIS setup, it doesn’t work quite as well. However, if I’m trying to breakdown quickly, like if a storm is rolling in, I would still do it for speed. When there isn’t tension, the knot can disengage from the loop and the. If you had permanent loops on the tarp ends, it would work a little better.
Doesn’t mean you CAN’T still do it and that it will necessarily come unhooked, but I experienced it, so I just separate the two.
Thanks for the comment!