Thanks again Wray! This series with the Porsche front end back has so much wisdom and knowledge. Some of the tricks you have shown here has been part of the classes Karl Fredrik had here in Norway, and I know he learned a lot from you when he joined your course. The "mini Jaguar rear fender" video you have here at TH-cam is also very informative, and highly recommended to the ones not been watching that.
Wray. Great stuff , extremely detailed, and so well explained. I restore early Broncos, Mustangs and Cougars, and have learned a lot. Have to be in a hyperbaric chamber 2 hours a day, because of a partial foot amputation. Have watched your videos for years, but now I look forward to my time in the chamber so I can watch your videos. Thank you.
Perfect timing. I’ve done a similar pattern but just got my tape kit from Proshaper in the mail for a proper FSP. I’m sure I’ll have questions but I love these techniques! Isn’t it interesting how two pattern “formats” give two different routes?
Hey Wray you talked about welding the panels together on a common cut line. Did any of your videos actually show how you cut the metal so no mistakes can happen? You have the two panels ready to weld but no details of showing us how you cut so they would match. At least I cannot find it. Thx again for the videos always learning.
The standard method of developing a join line to be welded is to run one panel under the other and scribe a line. If you use that method on a high crown panel after cutting you will find it is will yield a bad fit up. I prefer to make a super fine marker line, then I 1/8" wide blue tape the line so I can see it very well. I then cut wide of the line fit it up and grind the joint to a perfect fit, always watching that I don't get into the blue tape.
If you came into my shop you would see so many of your ideals that I have copied from you. I use magnets like they’re going out of style. I’m stopping your video to go make your magnet holder - lol. Thanks Wray.
What if you first draw lines of where the paper overlap and cut it and than flatten that out and transfer it on metal and weld it together? Would welding be a lot faster than ie a lot of heat shrinking? So shrink the panel by cutting and welding?
How many weeks does it take to do the 130hr class? I know I could benefit from it even being here in Louisiana I would like to take the class one day. I am not a rookie but not expert in my opinion.
i'm confused as to why a paper pattern is now known as a prototype flexible shaped pattern? also any chance you could show how to do a 356 coupe quarter panel in steel? i have one to make, thanks
Question one: because it is all taped up to hold the shape. If it just lays back flat it is a paper pattern. Question two: make a shape accurately you need a buck or a panel to copy. The process is the same whether you are making Duesenberg fenders or model A fenders.
@Matthew Moilanen now where would the fun & skill be in that? also, if you consider how much work & effort goes into cutting, forming, fitting, welding, cleaning up, planishing, finishing etc. you'll realise its quicker and more efficient to make a panel in one piece.
@@daos3300 Oh I don't know I've done it several times that way myself in my 40 years of fab work. I was curious as to why it may not be easier to do it that way ad the panel still had to be planished, finished and completed in the exact same fashion as it would with no time savings as gained in cutting and welding. I've created several panels similar to this as the ones located on a thirties style fender on the inner curved section and it worked quite well for me and it is easier than literally inches worth of shrinking.
@@proshaper Yes, yes it is but it has been much easier for me to remove literally inches in shrinking work with a couple small cuts and welds for me in the past.
@@matthewmoilanen787 certainly plenty of ways to skin a cat and if it's right in the end, all is well. i don't have your experience, but given a certain skill level, i suspect shrinking/wheeling may well be faster and more economical in a production environment. and not least, there is the satisfaction of being able to make it in one piece.
Thanks again Wray! This series with the Porsche front end back has so much wisdom and knowledge. Some of the tricks you have shown here has been part of the classes Karl Fredrik had here in Norway, and I know he learned a lot from you when he joined your course. The "mini Jaguar rear fender" video you have here at TH-cam is also very informative, and highly recommended to the ones not been watching that.
Wray. Great stuff , extremely detailed, and so well explained. I restore early Broncos, Mustangs and Cougars, and have learned a lot. Have to be in a hyperbaric chamber 2 hours a day, because of a partial foot amputation. Have watched your videos for years, but now I look forward to my time in the chamber so I can watch your videos. Thank you.
I always wondered how you came up with the idea for the flexible shape pattern. Hearing you explain it here made a lot of sense.
Good old Tyvec! Great discovery!
Hope all is great for you in 2021 Ray! All the best, Doug
Looking forward to a great 2021. Thanks for all the videos this year. It's been awesome to hear your insight and thoughts on shaping panels.
Perfect timing. I’ve done a similar pattern but just got my tape kit from Proshaper in the mail for a proper FSP. I’m sure I’ll have questions but I love these techniques! Isn’t it interesting how two pattern “formats” give two different routes?
Hey Wray you talked about welding the panels together on a common cut line. Did any of your videos actually show how you cut the metal so no mistakes can happen? You have the two panels ready to weld but no details of showing us how you cut so they would match. At least I cannot find it. Thx again for the videos always learning.
The standard method of developing a join line to be welded is to run one panel under the other and scribe a line. If you use that method on a high crown panel after cutting you will find it is will yield a bad fit up. I prefer to make a super fine marker line, then I 1/8" wide blue tape the line so I can see it very well. I then cut wide of the line fit it up and grind the joint to a perfect fit, always watching that I don't get into the blue tape.
If you came into my shop you would see so many of your ideals that I have copied from you. I use magnets like they’re going out of style. I’m stopping your video to go make your magnet holder - lol. Thanks Wray.
Excellent content- as usual !! Thanks, Wray.
Thanks Wray I'm enjoying your videos
very intersting...Walt the Next vídeo
thank you
is it possible to return the paper patter to make the other fender ?
Yes, the flexible shape pattern can be turned inside out to make a perfectly symmetrical opposite side.
Tyvek that's the house wrap that goes under siding correct?
Yes!
What if you first draw lines of where the paper overlap and cut it and than flatten that out and transfer it on metal and weld it together? Would welding be a lot faster than ie a lot of heat shrinking? So shrink the panel by cutting and welding?
The equation is always lots of shrinking or lots of welding choose your poison.
How many weeks does it take to do the 130hr class? I know I could benefit from it even being here in Louisiana I would like to take the class one day. I am not a rookie but not expert in my opinion.
Thirteen ten hour days in a row or break them up into multiple trips- your choice.
@@proshaper ok thanks a bunch i appreciate it
i'm confused as to why a paper pattern is now known as a prototype flexible shaped pattern? also any chance you could show how to do a 356 coupe quarter panel in steel? i have one to make, thanks
Question one: because it is all taped up to hold the shape. If it just lays back flat it is a paper pattern.
Question two: make a shape accurately you need a buck or a panel to copy. The process is the same whether you are making Duesenberg fenders or model A fenders.
@@proshaper i have one to copy but it was the process i was interested in seeing, but thank you for your reply
@@356porsche I sell the correct flexible shape pattern tape kit on my website. www.proshaper.com
@@356porsche Wray shows how he does this (makes a flexible shape pattern) in one of the jaguar nose videos (the recent ones)
@@papaloongie thanks joe, but i will stick to using paper patterns. somehow i don't have any issues with using them
Wray wouldn't it just be easier to make some slices by the taillight housing and remove pie shapes rather than trying to shrink the panel that much?
Shrinking and stretching clay is not a problem, why should it be with sheet metal? "Metal is Clay"
@Matthew Moilanen now where would the fun & skill be in that? also, if you consider how much work & effort goes into cutting, forming, fitting, welding, cleaning up, planishing, finishing etc. you'll realise its quicker and more efficient to make a panel in one piece.
@@daos3300 Oh I don't know I've done it several times that way myself in my 40 years of fab work. I was curious as to why it may not be easier to do it that way ad the panel still had to be planished, finished and completed in the exact same fashion as it would with no time savings as gained in cutting and welding. I've created several panels similar to this as the ones located on a thirties style fender on the inner curved section and it worked quite well for me and it is easier than literally inches worth of shrinking.
@@proshaper Yes, yes it is but it has been much easier for me to remove literally inches in shrinking work with a couple small cuts and welds for me in the past.
@@matthewmoilanen787 certainly plenty of ways to skin a cat and if it's right in the end, all is well. i don't have your experience, but given a certain skill level, i suspect shrinking/wheeling may well be faster and more economical in a production environment. and not least, there is the satisfaction of being able to make it in one piece.