Well done on this one Robert! And thank you very much for sharing all about it. I like the way you are doing this and I'm certainly looking forward to giving it a try. Cheers!
You’re good! And, I appreciate you sharing your talent with us. Gears have always fascinated me and I am just now getting to the point where I have the equipment (and courage - ha ha) to start cutting them myself.
i have been looking for a good video on hob making. THANK YOU! it answered all the questions i had been looking for. i will be watching it again and again.
I 've talked to "engineers" about involute gears . They conveyed nothing. Your videos should be mandatory for dum asses like me & them. Especially them. Thanks again.
Thanks for these videos, Bob! I am almost ready to " attempt " cutting some gears of my own to fix the power feed on my old Atlas. This is a very interesting option I never considered. Thanks for sharing man! 👍😁👍
You bet...check out my power feed I made for my Atlas (video "Atlas Z Axis Drive")...next video I'll be show casing it as I used it to make both the mandrel and the indexing sleeve for the Eureka tool...bob
Thanks. Very much. You solved the problem of the involute gear, with this excellent approximation by rotating the gear by an angle of 360/number of teeth.
If you can find a change gear for your lathe measure the OD then divide by the number of teeth plus 2 and you will be close to your diametral pitch...it will be and even number...if not your gear maybe metric...example my Atlas 32 tooth gear has an OD of 1.412...divide by 34 equals 24.079320....pitch is 24....hope that helps
Have you made a complete set of threading gears for the Atlas or Clausing standard 100 lathe ? I followed your post all the way from beginning to end. I love the concept and the creativity. Thanks for sharing it with us.
No... I made a 48 tooth gear for an Atlas lathe with the straight hob to show some guys on a forum how I did it for my threading attachment (I did make a full set for the attachment)...then just out of curiosity I made a spiral hob and made another 48 tooth gear just to compare the 2 methods...thinking about a U Tube on that in the future...
Thanks that was a really useful series of videos. Can I ask what depth of cut you made for each pass on the crs blank. I guess lighter cuts reduce and ridges between pass.
I wanted to make faceplates for my transmission to replace synchros. Which steel do u advise 8620 or 9310? Can I machine them with typical cnc and lathe or I need specific cutters? 8620 has a machinability rating at 66% of B1112 9310 has 51%
I did it with CNC so it was easy to accomplish...but my in cut is a mill cut...but reversing out is a climb cut....if possible never make a climb cut as the arbor can move...now a simple reversing out climb move with no cut could work but I'd watch the arbor and personally I'd avoid doing it for the entire operation...remember you are making .005" passes to get that involute curve...that's a lot of passes and a lot of chances to disturb the position of the arbor...if you use a tailstock center you could get away with it I'd think...but I've never used that setup.
About climb cuts. Climb cutting not only leads to better finishes it's in fact easier on the cutter as well. The problem is that you need a rigid setup and rigid machine to climb cut effectively. They can move parts if not used in a rigid setup, though it is actually a preferred method of cutting in the machine shop trade.
Under the microscope it seems that the steel gear needs a 3rd facing on it at the ends and it seems it was catching/striking on the aluminum one... I could be wrong but it seemed that way to me.
Thanks for the excellent videos. May I as how you know that you have made an involute tooth profile? If I remember correctly, the cutting tool to make the hob had flat sides.
The curve is made by the teeth just about and just below the center tooth...that is why light passes are made...they ensure a good involute form...the cutter has flat sides
Have a look here: www.cartertools.com/involute.html Scroll down through the math to the section called Another Application, "Approximate Hobbing" Good explanation and drawings
A hob will cut any number of teeth from a smallish number (due to undercutting of teeth on small gears) up to large gears. To cut a full range of teeth you would need 8 involute cutters. Each cutter has a range it will cut reasonably accurately.
@@robertt-cs8fe Thank Bob if i figure right it should be the one you made for the 24 tooth gear cut on steel well thanks any way you are great at it great video
Marc, thanks...I used this web page for most of my calculations...he does a great job on the metric side of things as well: www.helicron.net/workshop/gearcutting/involute-gears/
I see ALOT of gear tooth rubbing instead of the gear teeth surfaces simply pushing on each other. The pressure angle is not staying the same as they should if both the involute curves were cut correctly. they work but given the up close video, its seems they will wear significantly.
Well done on this one Robert! And thank you very much for sharing all about it. I like the way you are doing this and I'm certainly looking forward to giving it a try. Cheers!
Hi Robert, Thank you for this awesome video . I now got a better understanding about how to make those gear and adjustment . Great video again .
Excellent. The best video I've seen on making a hobb. As Thomas said it answers all the questions. Thanks Robert
Thanks Sean...glad it helps
Really nice series, love the microscopy, makes one really understand how cool gears are!
Thanks again Baikal...I have 2 bench scopes that are in use a lot...the older I get...the more I need them
yeah, now at 46 I walk around with a 3.5X headband magnifier looking like Mr Magoo, can´t read a ruler even w o them!
Thanks, Inever thought of making my own hob, now I go to do it!
These videos are pure gold!
You’re good! And, I appreciate you sharing your talent with us. Gears have always fascinated me and I am just now getting to the point where I have the equipment (and courage - ha ha) to start cutting them myself.
Thanks a lot Robert...good luck on the cutting...Bob
i have been looking for a good video on hob making. THANK YOU! it answered all the questions i had been looking for. i will be watching it again and again.
I 've talked to "engineers" about involute gears . They conveyed nothing. Your videos should be mandatory for dum asses like me & them. Especially them. Thanks again.
Glad you found it so useful...tnx
glad you enjoyed it and found it so useful
Very informative video. Tons of information being presented. Will watch again and again. Thank you.
Thanks for watching John...it was fun
Another excellent vid Robert. Well done (again!).
Thanks for these videos, Bob! I am almost ready to " attempt " cutting some gears of my own to fix the power feed on my old Atlas. This is a very interesting option I never considered.
Thanks for sharing man! 👍😁👍
You bet...check out my power feed I made for my Atlas (video "Atlas Z Axis Drive")...next video I'll be show casing it as I used it to make both the mandrel and the indexing sleeve for the Eureka tool...bob
Thanks. Very much. You solved the problem of the involute gear, with this excellent approximation by rotating the gear by an angle of 360/number of teeth.
Thanks Jean Yves
awesome that hobb looks great after that cut
Thanks...I was happy with the results
Very impressive work. I have a South bend Model C and I need to cut gears for it. I can't find much info on diametral pitch.
If you can find a change gear for your lathe measure the OD then divide by the number of teeth plus 2 and you will be close to your diametral pitch...it will be and even number...if not your gear maybe metric...example my Atlas 32 tooth gear has an OD of 1.412...divide by 34 equals 24.079320....pitch is 24....hope that helps
Thanks for that, I learned something new today
Great stuff!
Have you made a complete set of threading gears for the Atlas or Clausing standard 100 lathe ? I followed your post all the way from beginning to end. I love the concept and the creativity. Thanks for sharing it with us.
No... I made a 48 tooth gear for an Atlas lathe with the straight hob to show some guys on a forum how I did it for my threading attachment (I did make a full set for the attachment)...then just out of curiosity I made a spiral hob and made another 48 tooth gear just to compare the 2 methods...thinking about a U Tube on that in the future...
Thanks that was a really useful series of videos. Can I ask what depth of cut you made for each pass on the crs blank. I guess lighter cuts reduce and ridges between pass.
I kept it at .005" same as the aluminum...and yes lighter cuts make a better involute curve
great video, thanks for sharing.
thanks Bill...its been fun
I wanted to make faceplates for my transmission to replace synchros. Which steel do u advise 8620 or 9310? Can I machine them with typical cnc and lathe or I need specific cutters?
8620 has a machinability rating at 66% of B1112
9310 has 51%
Is it necessary to pull the blank away from the cutter when backing up to make the next cut? Thanks for the video.
I did it with CNC so it was easy to accomplish...but my in cut is a mill cut...but reversing out is a climb cut....if possible never make a climb cut as the arbor can move...now a simple reversing out climb move with no cut could work but I'd watch the arbor and personally I'd avoid doing it for the entire operation...remember you are making .005" passes to get that involute curve...that's a lot of passes and a lot of chances to disturb the position of the arbor...if you use a tailstock center you could get away with it I'd think...but I've never used that setup.
robertt4522 I can see that now. Thanks!
About climb cuts. Climb cutting not only leads to better finishes it's in fact easier on the cutter as well. The problem is that you need a rigid setup and rigid machine to climb cut effectively. They can move parts if not used in a rigid setup, though it is actually a preferred method of cutting in the machine shop trade.
video at 8:44 , from where i can purchase this instrument? what is the name of that??
It is referred to as a pinion head depthing tool...I made it in my shop years ago from a design by WR Smith.
@@robertt-cs8fe can we become facebook friend?? my fb profile "facebook.com/sandeep.pal746"
Mr. robert4522, very good video and a great gear!
Under the microscope it seems that the steel gear needs a 3rd facing on it at the ends and it seems it was catching/striking on the aluminum one... I could be wrong but it seemed that way to me.
Thanks for the excellent videos. May I as how you know that you have made an involute tooth profile? If I remember correctly, the cutting tool to make the hob had flat sides.
The curve is made by the teeth just about and just below the center tooth...that is why light passes are made...they ensure a good involute form...the cutter has flat sides
Have a look here: www.cartertools.com/involute.html
Scroll down through the math to the section called Another Application, "Approximate Hobbing"
Good explanation and drawings
Thank you so much for the link. Very educational. Appreciate your taking the time.
Is your dividing head CNC?
You made the rounded edge on the cutter with the file
Yup...sure did...good catch...bob
Dimetrial pitch?
thank you so much
You're welcome!
What are the advantages of using a hob over an inolute cutter?
A hob will cut any number of teeth from a smallish number (due to undercutting of teeth on small gears) up to large gears. To cut a full range of teeth you would need 8 involute cutters. Each cutter has a range it will cut reasonably accurately.
gear at 10:11 , what is the module??
the gear has a diametral pitch of 24...which I believe converts to a module of 1.0585.
@@robertt-cs8fe thx by heart for help
Is that 12L14 steel? It cut like 12L14. Your not gonna run that steel with the ZAMAK are you? Great job.
Could be 12L14...not going touse gear with Atlas...was just curious about cutting a crs gear
Why are you changing parts instead of a robot?
Can u make spider gears? Would pay
never have andrew...can't be of much help...sorry....bob
Hi how much would you charge for a hob 20 teeth gear atlas th42 lathe thank you 3/4 hole in center double key
Sorry Duane I do not sell hobs or gears...I just do not have the time...it is nice to be asked though...bob
@@robertt-cs8fe Thank Bob if i figure right it should be the one you made for the 24 tooth gear cut on steel well thanks any way you are great at it great video
I mean the size of South Bend Model C gears.
Seem so simple when you do this,....
I want to see more, especialy how you make (calculate) the cutters, maby in metric?
Excellent 🌠🌠🌠🌠🌠
Marc, thanks...I used this web page for most of my calculations...he does a great job on the metric side of things as well:
www.helicron.net/workshop/gearcutting/involute-gears/
@@robertt-cs8fe
Thanks,
More to read, close to understanding 👍👍👍
I see ALOT of gear tooth rubbing instead of the gear teeth surfaces simply pushing on each other. The pressure angle is not staying the same as they should if both the involute curves were cut correctly. they work but given the up close video, its seems they will wear significantly.
W.R Smith? - clickspring?
WR Smith...been a big fan for lots of years...just learned about Clickspring recently...I'm a big fan of both