Before I pick up any hobby/interest I like to soak up as much information I can before actually diving into it, and your videos are definitely top tier prime material for learning. You don’t over-explain things, but you also don’t skip over any important details that beginners should know about it. You definitely make it easy for us to pick up and I’m super grateful for that. Keep it up you’re helping a lot of people.
I'm so glad you're covering this printer! So many of the larger channels seem too heavily sponsored by the competition to look at this. I bought this based upon your videos and used your promo code. Thanks! Liked and subscribed 👍
Awesome. Yeah that’s probably true. They are also trying to cover a lot more because their audience is much much larger. For now, I’m really enjoying pushing this printer and sharing my experiences. :) thanks for your support.
Just finished. New to 3D printing. Printer was a gift. Was having lots of gummed up printing after several successful prints. Instructions easy to follow and, well, printer works perfectly again.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. Every time I go to do an upgrade on my aquila I find you've already done a video covering the topic. It's walked me through every step. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Whats the washer you drop first into the hotend? I have printed two of the washer you have in the description but the washer is way to big to fit into the little hole?? 8:16
Hi Aaron. When you “squish” that tube in-between the hotend like that, it prevents the issue of backing out slowly over time. Which creates a gap between the PTFE and the nozzle. That little cavity will cause sudden extruding issues and clogs. So this completely removes that issue from the picture.
Swapped the tube and a metal extruder two weeks in. Made a good difference. Just got an assortment of nozzles today! Went with brass to see what mm size I like. Then going to get the carbide versions.
Dude, thanks SO much for making these videos. Just picked up an Aquila in the Prime Day sale because of you. Love my Prusa Mini but this one is great for less than half the price. Keep up the good work! Your video quality is great and your instructions are awesome.
Brass will heat and cool much more quickly. Once warmed up, steel will hold heat better than brass, which should be good for 3D printing. I've ordered the steel nozzles to try. Good video and topic, Fedor. The hard science behind it is worth understanding.
The property relevant to quick heating or cooling is not thermal conductivity, but thermal diffusivity (e.g. how quickly a thermal difference will propagate through a material). Brass' thermal diffusivity is ~3.5 times that of hardened steel. Regarding retaining heat, the relevant property is volumetric specific heat (how much heat is retained for a given volume, since the nozzles are the same size). In this case, hardened steel's is around 17% higher. TL;DR you are right, but for the wrong reasons.
The reason for using hardened steel is the "hardened" term: you can print abrasive filaments without instantly ruining your nozzle (as would happen with a brass one).
You have been a great help in my 3D printing learning experiance and I have ordered fans and nozzles through your links and the flexible filement, keep putting out ther great Aquilla videos!
Bought some more tubing and this time got a cutter with it and I think I maybe when I replaced the tubing the first time I didn't have it cut straight and the clip that holds the tubing wasn't actually secure on the hot end side so I imagine it was probably moving which would then cause the problems I was having but I still wanted to try this out and see how it does. I did this last night to mine (more to fix my printing issues then to be able to print at extreme temps) and I think I may be able to trust the printer to do more then an hour or two. Previously I would have nothing but issues with clogging and you could hear the extruder skipping (making a "thunking noise"), even on the shorter prints I'd have some issues but they would come up fairly OK but not as good as my ender 5. Previously if I printed anything that took longer then an hour or two the layers just wouldn't stick together and you could peel the layers or simply crush it in your hand with no issues. I'm going to do more testing tonight and think I have to tweak a couple settings as I was getting some stringing now. When I was researching purchasing another printer this one kept coming up and I was hearing nothing but great things about it and the price couldn't be beat. I got it all set up, worked fairly good on the few prints I tried so I tried longer prints, either 1 piece that was larger or several smaller pieces) and then I that's when started having issues galore, having to replace multiple nozzles and so I stopped trying to print for more then an hour or two at a time on this printer and stuck to my more reliable ender 5 but now I'm excited to see if I can trust this one to print for longer. Read online how lots of people were doing long 10-20 hour prints no issues but in the end I just didn't have to time to really dig into it and start pulling things apart again but then I came across this video a week or two ago and thought I would give it a shot and see. thanks for your great channel.
Glad to hear you decided to work on the machine and problem solve. The Ender 5 and the Aquila’s components are actually VERY similar. So by you learning and fixing this machine, you’ll know what to do when the Ender5 runs into them. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Ender 5 was my first machine and have had for quite some time now and I've done a few mods over that time to it already and it has been relatively problem free. The Aquila on the other hand has given a lot of issues by comparison (with some of the same modifications made from what I learned from owning the ender 5). Last night I started up a print and ended up hearing the clunking noise again every so often, checked the nozzle and was able to clean it out but I have some spares still but may have to look at ordering some more soon just to have and I'm going to double check the leveling again today to make sure it's just not too close to bed.
Wonder why this is happening. How is your spring tension on the extruder lever? Maybe it’s just too loose? Are you making sure you’ll ptfe tube is being held flush to the nozzle by the coupler? Those can be a pain. I made a quick video. Check this one out: th-cam.com/users/shortsDbMdL1KFB8o?feature=share
You could but it wouldnt serve the same purpose. The main reason for the spacer is to stop the PTFE tube from wiggling away from the nozzle and causing clogging. Not at issue on the extruder side.
Hi, I have a doubt I can install the ender 3 hotend on my aquila. I have problems and I want to replace it along with its other accessories. I think they are the same voltage
Thank you so much for passing your knowledge on to us. I emailed you with a question about my new printer and you helped me get it printing correctly. Thank you so much and please keep posting the vids. Peace out. ✌
@ 6:50 you unscrewed that piece with ease. When I tried to unscrew mine, the frame holding the hot end was wanting to bend. I didn't want to dent the rails so I stopped but why is it so stuck?
@@3DPrintSOS ya it's over tightened or something, tried again this time rollers came outta railing while I was holding it too. Might of damaged something cuz now it's wobbling a lil bit.
Oh man! That’s not tight, that’s practically seized. The rollers can be adjusted, the bottom roller has an eccentric nut. Use the wrench that came with the printer to adjust it to make it right again. Although, it might be better to remove the whole hotend off the printer and try a vice and a wrench.
@@3DPrintSOS lol rite I adjusted the rollers and it is fine now, scared me that doing that knocked it out that much. Luckily no dents on the railing. I was thinking that too, that I would have to disassemble 😓
Just got my aquila x2 yesterday. Got it running today. I put a metal dual gear extruder on right away. Everything else is bone stock. I printed out the printer test thing on the SD card and it looked fine but I broke it trying to just pull it off and I noticed that the layers didn't seem to stick together as well. I'm using a new roll of PLA I got also. I upped the hot end heat to 210 from the preprogramed 200 and I'm seeing what that does. I'm printing out the "tool box" that's on the SD card now. Looking forward to learning more. Sub'd to the channel.
Nice! Congrats on the new machine. Keep in mind that for a dual gear extruder, you need to recalibrate your esteps. From what I understand you cannot get the steps high enough on stock firmware for a dual gear extruder. That's why I always recommend sticking with stock or printing my block and lever from thingiverse. Unless, you dont mind going aftermarket firmware and calibrating steps, in which case, dual gear is definitely stronger.
@@3DPrintSOS OHHHH . I didn't know that. I guess I'll let this tool box finish and then look at doing that. I did see a video you had loaded about updating the machine to 3rd party firmware that opens up more settings. I assume I could do that in there? I don't see any real downside to loading a 3rd party if it plays well with everything. I don't really see a downside to it.
I need some help I bought voxelab Aquila but I'm having problems it would over Extrude filament when heating up and when it's prints gumming it up 😫 !! I need your advice in it and thanks.
What do you over extrude when heating up? A bit of ooze as the printer heats is normal. As the hotend gets hot, if there is plastic in the nozzle, it will drop out. No way to really stop that without taking filament out before hand. Usually things gum up because of a leveling issue. Check out my easy leveling video. It will help big time.
Yes, doing it this way helps eliminate the slop in between the ptfe tube and the nozzle. A critical spot that has molten filament there and can cause clogs if a gap develops. Two birds, one stone. It IS much simpler do to the whole line.
@@3DPrintSOS okay, after watching a second time, perhaps a third, I better understand what you're doing. You're trying to keep the PTFE tube from moving around inside the hot end. This setup allows one to use your printed washer to keep that piece from moving around. Makes perfect sense now
Maybe I'm crazy...or maybe I just missed something in the comment thread, but did you use two spacers? It looked like you dropped one in before inserting the PTFE tubing into the hotend?
@@3DPrintSOS No wories...it looked like you put something in there and I went back a bunch of times listening to see if you mentioned two...you didn't, but I thought I'd check. Your videos have been literally life-saving for my printer experience...I am only two weeks in and thanks to you and some other individuals, I haven't had to endure some of the learning curve lessons. Thanks immensely for what you do!
Nice videos covering this printer. I just picked one up at a ridiculous low price.My 3rd customer return printer,for less than half price,complete just needing a few tweaks to work properly. A quick tip for vernier caliper usage...the thin blade that extends when you open the the jaws is used for depth measurements.
Interesting video, thanks! I have a nicely modded Ender 3 that I love and have now added the Aquila as a second printer. You cannot beat the Aquila price for what you get, i'll probably never buy another Ender 3.
Great Video. I did the Hot end swap and put new PTFE tubing on my Aquila as well. This was after I remixed part of your Bowden block(Awesome job by the way!) so it has a tie down loop for cable management. Your videos have been great and helpful!
Yes. But doing it the way I did also solves the issue with the ptfe couplers allowing movement. Overtime, that movement gets larger, creating retraction issues and clogs that are hard to diagnose. So this method is like hitting two birds with one stone. ;)
Hi 3DPrintSOS. Great help videos for the Voxelab Aquila, I have a big problem with the connector one the extruder of this printer! I brought some good quality Clear PETG from my liked filament company "e Sun" their filament is very good indeed. But I found that the stiffness and twangy effect of the filament was far more than their normal PETG Blue or Black I brought before? Such that when trying to print a model with it at the right heat for the bed and the hot end, It was far too hard to get it to stick down even on a fully cleaned bed, the PTFE tube come out the connector with the filament pushing the tube away from the extruder? I ended up having to stop the print and of course use the printers auto unload feature. When the filament got to the extruder end connector it got stuck in the brass connector. I had to remove the connect and cut of about a foot length of filament to try to get out the filament out of the connector which was really jammed in at the screw end of it. The filament broke off level with the screw end but below the level of the plastic collar of the connector. How do I remove that tiny bit of filament stuck in the connector without damaging the collar? I can't use the other free connector that come with the printer because that one is not able to hold on the PTFE tube when printing it just undoes and the filament pushes the tube off the connector! Can you also post a video of how to step by step dismantle the extruder and use it's bolts and screws to build the printed new extruder lock you given us the code to print in PETG which we need to print flexible's etc. Thank you so much.
@@3DPrintSOS Hello there, Thanks for the advice. Is there a better connector I could replace it with that I can buy on Amazon UK site? It is a shame that connectors are not better made to allow for the stresses placed on them at the extruder end of 3D printers? I hope you can get around to doing the help video about how to dis-mantle the extruder and use the bolts and parts to built the printed PETG extruder block you designed that we need for the flexible etc. filaments soon thank you again 8 )
@@3DPrintSOS thank you! I have had mine for a little over a month. I figured I should probably order some of these and keep them on hand. This video is also super helpful. I enjoyed it and will be a long time viewer...
@@3DPrintSOS I finally got it in. I think some of the brim was still on. I also had my printer heated up the second time I tried and it fell right down. I don't know if that made any difference.
Hi Fedor! I installed the washer and blue PTFE when I first got my original Aquila, and the M6 coupler kept backing out, even though I tightened it as much as possible without crushing the PTFE liner inside the hotend. I noticed that the thread coating on the coupler is worn off, any idea what to use?
Wish I could. The company hasn’t responded after they sold out because of the video. I tried emailing, using their website form, looking for them on social...nothin. The Capricorn tubing is the next best bet.
I suspect disappearance of Tecboss might be due to their 300 degree rating for their PTFE tubing being dangerous. Capricorn is highly regarded, and they claim the XS version is somewhat more capable of withstanding deformation to 280C. There's a nice table of Safe Printing Temperatures at captubes.
You could. But you’d bypass the entire fix. The point is to “squish” this piece of ptfe tube between the nozzle and top of the hotend. This prevents clogging caused by wiggle in the PTFE couplers.
i found, that pushing the fitting all the way to the other end (you mentioned that)worked really well...i think it's the way the fitting is made to trap in one direction. i did this modification as well(X2), with the unassembled unit. the brass fittings are hexagonal and a reduced end on a multi-blade drive worked to get it loose(the tool from Vox, slipped, before i used the nut driver.) the shroud on the 2 seems more tricky to remove, from my experience. nd, i cut a much longer length of the PTFE material and installed that, rather than the short piece....is ok, yes?
I'm still an amateur in all this, but as someone who frequently experiences major anxiety about whether he made the right decision in terms of hobbies, your channel seriously reassures me that I made the right choice by buying the Aquila as my first printer.
@@3DPrintSOS I just ordered a spool of yousu PETG after watching one of your other videos, soon as it arrives i'm gonna print the washer off and install this mod (along with some others) looking forward to getting more printing done once i move beyond the basic PLA i've been using.
I just tried to install the hardened steel MK8 nozzles in your link and it destroyed my hot end. Def not the same threads but I do have the Aquila X2. Any info on nozzles that fit the X2 would be greatly appreciated.
Well that’s interesting. All Aquila’s and other clones of Enders run an MK8 nozzle. If it has a cone shape, it’s correct. There is also a v6 nozzle but that has different threads and a unique shape. Mk8 should be correct though.
@@3DPrintSOS I wish I could post pictures on here. The hardened steel nozzles appear to be the same thread dimension as the stock nozzle. BUT the threads are much sharper on the hardened steel whereas the brass threads are flattened if that makes any sense. Is there someplace I can post a picture of them side by side for you to see?
My 3d printer 's white teflon tube keeps getting pushed out of the metal bowden tube. It was not popping out before, any suggestions? It just pushes the white tube away and results in filament spooling in the air.
Classic ptfe coupler failure. Happens all the time unfortunately. That’s why I tell people to print and use my printable extruder block because it eliminates the ptfe coupler at the extruder. You can also buy a set of improved couplers if you can’t print. amzn.to/3kwjRaw
Ouch. I would get things up to temp, then remove the heater block with the nozzle, turn the heat off, remove thermistor and heater cartridge and try to get the nozzle in a vise or vise grips. It should come off. If not, blocks are VERY cheap. :)
I wonder why you didn’t use the depth gauge on your caliper to measure the length for the tube? It’s the little skinny bit that sticks out the other end when you spread the caliper jaws
sorry this is a little of topic i am new to printing and my voxelab aquillax2 is now throwing a message that says" Note : the system doesn't detect the filament. please loading filament."is there any way i can remove the sensor and print with out it , Any help would be greatful
Is there a way to use a micro switch type filement run out sensor on my Aquilla s2 printer? I have had a Voxelab sensor on order for weeks now and no word on when it will get here. A friend gave me an Ender Sensor and i plugged it in, ,but it doesn't work, the LED shows it sees the filement , but the the print doesn't pause.
That very first washer you dropped in . wont it melt . And do i put it in same way as you did with top washer . just you didn't show what way goes in on and what sort type of washer . so if i print 2 washers drop first one same way round as top washer . . Great video , gonna be doing this next week ,
Do you know exactly how long the ptfe tube has to be ? I purchased one. But it's 1m long I need to cut it to size. And does the tube have to reach the nozzle ?
Quick question, in your video, you added a printed washer below and above the captured Capricorn tubing. Please confirm that both printed washers are required.
Because having the fitting hold a piece down inside the hotend prevents a gap from forming between the tube and the nozzle. Stopping clogs and stringing.
I would say they are all “budget” machines until you are getting around $1,000. Check out the Prusa MK3 and MK3S if you want something out of the box that will likely last significantly longer than a standard “budget” machine. With that said, checkout some of the bigger TH-cam channels. Some guys use really really expensive machines and have plenty of issues. The only difference is how much the replacement parts cost. 😂
Can I ask why you don't just replace the whole tube with the new one? Why use the 2 different ones? Super new to 3D printing. I have to order more pneumatic M6 fittings for mine because both of the ones it came with no longer hold the ptfe tube in place, even though its less than a week old. But since it wont hold the tube I cant print the washer you use, so can I just replace the whole clear tube with the new stuff, without using the washer?
You can totally do it without the washer and go all the way down. The reason for it though is sometimes during retractions there can be a bit of play between the nozzle and the ptfe tube. This causes clogs and all kinds of issues. This tube and washer eliminate that problem completely. ;)
Mine has started to jam up at the hot end and just clicks at the extruder. When I pull the filament out it has a couple of blobs that stops you pulling it right out. I'm guessing this mod will fix my issue? Thanks for another great video.
No matter what I do the bed seems to lose its leveling after 1 print, i have measured and fine tuned everything that's recommended to no avail could the be the cheap springs on the bed
I will likely try inserting a short segment of borosilicate glass inside the hot end. Borosilicate is less conductive than metals and has a max working temp of around 400C or so. Might have to use silicone on the fitting thread to hold it and not crush/break the glass.
my filament only comes out correctly when i manually hold it into the PETG tube, not sure what to do at this point. nozzle isn’t clogged already checked. Have eSun pla +.
Why not use the PTFE tube all the way from the entrance of the filament to the nozzle?, Is required to have a cut between the nozzle tube and the rest for some reason?
Only because this helps solve another issue as I mentioned. It stops the movement between the nozzle and ptfe tube. That play can create clogs and other retraction issues.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes I got it, It would be possible to just put a good fittings to avoid that movement?. Btw I'm waiting for my Aquila I ordered after having an issue with the Neptune2, your videos are great man. Thanks
@@3DPrintSOS I got mi Aquila and it works great. I've made a Z axis guide for the rod. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912947 is the only mod I have done for now
Sweet, I’ll try. One more question, so I decided to replace everything without the printed part. It was working find then it started showing “can’t detect filament” any clue how to fix that
I started printing with PTEG at 228 C and I came back to watch this video again because (I dont know if it is a placebo effect) but I started to get small headaches and lightheaded every time I printed with pteg. Did that ever happen to you when you started out 3d printing high temp filaments .I'm hoping its just placebo but I'm gonna confirm it when I change the tubing.
Woah, no that should t be happening. I would highly recommend some tubing if you’re going to be printing at that temp for a long time. It might be placebo but I’m no doctor and some people are sensitive to things other aren’t aren’t. So please stay safe. If it makes you feel that way, switch materials for sure.
If you’ve tried it all, try reducing your cooling fan a bit. Try 50%. You can also delay it to turn on later, not just at layer 2. Sometimes layer 4 or so can work.
Can you please do a video on how to add the filament detection to aquila version 1? I found in the settings it has the option for filament detection, but I do not know how to configure it.
All you need is to add a very inexpensive filament detection sensor. It would work right away as long as you enable the feature in firmware. I’ll look into grabbing one. My X2 has one. Maybe I can borrow it from there.
having an issue with the hot end stopping printing and it continuing to 'air print'...whuzzit? :) also better hot end upgrade? i've done the tube replacement, curious if there is a better kit. also looking for extruder upgrades. voxelab X2
Sounds like you have a clog. Check to make sure your ptfe tube is all the up against the nozzle. Also see if you can go a bit hotter on the nozzle at about 220 and see if you can push filament through it by hand.
Ah. Yep, that’s the cause right there. Means there was a gap somewhere between those points of contact. Try to get things a bit heated and clean them up as you go. Careful not to burn yourself.
@@3DPrintSOS there was a little debris in the ptfe tube end i was thinking of getting some acetone to soak nozzles and clean things with...no heat...;) except for the threads on the inside of the block, it's pretty clean.
I’m having issues with the layers being printed on top of my supports being of really poor quality and messy, is this because of layer height or another issue, I’m quite confused.
It would be nice if you tell people they're going to have to bump up their printing temperature for all materials by 50C when they replace their brass nozzle with stainless steel. I spent a day trying to get my printer to extrude any material before I found a comment on the Prusa forums where someone had the same problem I was having. He was told that Prusa recommends bumping the temp as much at 50C (200 -> 250 for PLA for instance) when changing to a stainless nozzle because stainless steel doesn't transfer heat nearly as well as brass. The temp sensor measures the hotend not the nozzle, so to get your stainless nozzle to the same temp as your original brass nozzle, you have to turn up the temp.
Looks like they’ve sold out. I messaged them to see if they will have more stock soon. In the meantime, Capricorn is the next best thing. amzn.to/3s5B4tF
Ok so i did this and..... Now it seems to be clogged up. I even had to burn out the washer I printed and tried to backtrack. Im not sure what the exact issue is but from what i am getting, the filament is getting either stuck or clogging right at the hotend. Is there any suggestion or advice? Maybw my hose isn't flush??
@@3DPrintSOS I'm not entirely sure. I know that the whole thing had to be heated up to clean as much of the washer as i could out first. When I did that I re inserted the original hose but im not sure. This is my first printer so I am learning as I go.
@@3DPrintSOS as soon as I figure it out I definitely wont do it wrong again haha. If.... If the hose is put back into the "red thing".... How deep is ot supposed to go? Am i supposed to feel it? It seems like ot doesn't go near as deep as it did originally
In this case it might help to take the hotend fully off the printer to make sure things are installed right. Then tighten everything when it’s back on and hot.
That’s correct. This mod just helps with the potential issue of having slop in the ptfe fittings. You can save yourself a bunch of steps and just replace the entire thing. That’s what I’ve done on several other machines. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Even when replacing the whole tube, this mod is still beneficial, right? If you just replace the whole tube as one piece, it could still work away from the nozzle, leaving a gap for filament to collect. With this mod, the washer keeps the short piece of tubing flush with the nozzle, preventing any gap at least at the nozzle end, correct?
You’d have to compile it yourself. There are settings for Max. You have to tell it to be 15deg higher. So if you want the Max to be 300, you’d set 315 as Max in Marlin and compile.
Question for ya mate. In regards to this modification. Right after I did this, I started hearing the ominous crackling sound during printing. Only on the first layer, with all filaments I own. I dried everything, still did it. I removed the washer and short ptfe piece and went back to the stock setup. It quit doing it after that. Print quality picked way up. I think I was getting air sucked into the hotend somehow, moist air. What could have caused that?
@@3DPrintSOS that’s a good possibility. I’ve got an all metal hotend coming next week, but I’m also getting another Aquila. I’ll probably keep the stock hotend on that one and use your modifications on that one as well. What would a misalignment have to do with the sound and print quality I was getting?
@@3DPrintSOS I was definitely getting under extrusion. Only on the first layer. Speed was only 5mm/s though, and I’m printing PETG. Once the speed picks up it quits doing it. Think the filament is staying in the hotend too long allowing it to boil?
Hey Fedor I decided to do this mod today. I made a mistake using a PLA printed spacer, my heatsink seems to reach temperatures at the top that can make pla melt. Maybe it's the new fan I installed not moving enough air causing heat creep. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a 3rd party spacer part I could buy that is more heat resistant, or even stack some teflon washers in there instead?
Hmm. It shouldn’t be getting THAT hot up there. How long was the print? PETG is definitely the way to go with these spacers. Or abs or nylon. Sadly, I don’t know of any that would just drop in, without printing one that is.
@@3DPrintSOS 48 hour print. For now I just took a longer section of the capricorn tubing and ran it from the extruder to the nozzle. I have some PETG on the way to print a new spacer and retry the mod. I was surprised it got that hot too so far up the heatsink, it must be the new 40mm fan I added not pushing enough air on those longer prints.
Hi, after following this tutorial and the one to replace the hotend fan, I am getting a lot of stringing and zits now. Its happening with the same PLA filament and settings I was using before. I have a feeling I could have done something wrong with the washer and the hot end. Is there any particular mistake that would cause stringing and zitting?? I guess its over extruding... Could any of these, or mistakes while modifying, that could cause it to extrude too much?
@@3DPrintSOS, thanks for the response, it really means a lot that you take your time to help us. I was running your Voxelab Profile with 5mm retraction and I upped it to 6mm. I think it got a little better but I'm still getting the really fibrous strings, like super thin. How high can I take my retraction safely, I've tried searching, but its always so vague. How high can I go before I know that the problem isn't retraction?
That’s a good question. Not sure I ever went sure high before. Just keep going up by 5mm until it either gets better or clearly worse. That’s how I do it
@@3DPrintSOS, thanks for your help. Over the past few days I have tried every setting imaginable. I started going up 5mm in distance at a time until 25mm, then I saw online they mention .5mm, so I tried that instead between 6 and 15 going up .5 each time. I have used speeds from 45mm/s to 90mm/s. However, every test looks exactly the same. I replaced my extruder with a dual drive gear extruder yesterday in hopes of it fixing the problem but no luck. I then undid the hot end fix mod, very hard to get that washer back out btw, and shortened my bowden tube to match the length of the original and put it back in without the fix... still stringing. I am going to re-do the hot end fix today with a new printed washer and make sure I've cut everything perfectly and will let you know if it has any effect. Do you any other ideas? I'm betting there is something physical or mechanical going on because I've tried so many tests, settings, and pre-defined profiles from reddit, facebook, and youtube designed for PLA Voxelab Aquila.
@@3DPrintSOS i was just curious, the printer is down and unknown when it will be fully operational. plus it is my only printer which is why i was asking if this can be bought.
I would get an Aquila and an Ender Extender to make it a 400x400 print bed since I sometimes need to print larger things. I’d then put on a hotend and nozzle from Zodiac and be absolutely set.
Using Capricorn Tubing Cutters To use the cutters, simply squeeze to open, and place the tubing in the groove, aligning the path of the blade with where you want to make the cut. Release the pressure on the blade, and allow it to come to rest on the tubing, so you can make sure it is in exactly the right spot. Now make sure the tubing aligned in the cutter, and squeeze it between your fingers and thumb. PTFE is very slippery, and it will want to slide out during the cut, resulting in an end that isn't square. You will be tempted to press slowly and carefully on the cutter, but the trick to getting a good cut is actually to squeeze fast, like using a stapler.
Hi 3DPrintSOS again, I now got far stronger better extruder end tube connectors and the hot end ones which are great and solved the problems. I will thought be using your designed extruder block upgrade printed part to replace the extruder connector so I can do Flexible filaments. Now just as I was about to do your small hot end printed part into the hot end tube connector as per this video I found that the plastic filament had overflowed the top of the heater block and was encrusted around the top. I guess this meant the PTFE tube there was not full down the hot end due to the moving tube as you said happens? Last time this happened to me on my Tronxy X5SA the company told me the hot end block was ruined and they sent me a new one to replace it. I have managed to remove the melted filament around the block without damaging the wires, Did you think it be best to replace the hot end block or just reuse it? Great videos as always. Thanks. 8 )
You can reuse it, just after it’s cleaned, heat it all up and make sure the nozzle is right on there. It should butt into the heatbreak in the block. Otherwise you get a goop
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you, I will clean it full as it is a bit mucky outside on the block and I will change the nozzle to a hard nozzle since I have it all being sorted out anyways! To think the tube moves just a tiny bit inside and the goop encloses the hot block and with the shroud being so big unless you take it off you would not even know about the goop? Cheers 8 )
Not sure. I’ve never had luck with metals ones because they all use ptfe couplers. And they fail too often. I just print the “Fedorstruder” and never worry about it again. ;)
Thank you for all of your videos, they are a huge help!! My husband already want to upgrade to a new printer. What do you recommend? I’ll keep using the Aquila, but he wants something faster. Thanks!!
Hmm faster? I’m not sure honestly. All of my machines print around the Aquila speed. You can always go way faster with a larger nozzle. Even a .05 mm nozzle can cut the time of prints down by 40%
after watching some of your videos i'm quiet interessted in buying the Aquila as my first 3d printer. but i was wondering, because i didn't seem to find it anywhere, the powersupply... is it a meanwell or a noname?
Ok,I need you to verify somethng for me. I did this mod when you first did it and I was just starting out using PLA. I knew then that I would eventually would want to do other filaments and now I want to do PETG. I have been told that I need to either get a new all metal hotend or all metal heatbreak due to off gasses. I use Capricorn XS that says it's rated for 300c,so I should be fine printing PETG right? Now if you have a suggestion on an all Metal Hotend for the original Aquila,I'm all for upgrading. 😁I have learned sooo much from your videos,thanks and keep them coming.
Be careful replacing your oem nozzle with the hardened steel ones in the link above. I did a bunch of upgrades all at once (replace fans, added crtouch, replaced springs, replaced tubing, replaced nozzle) and I have not been able to geta single print to come out ever since. I had to slowly narrow it down until i finally i reverted back to the stock nozzle and everything prints great again. I returned the nozzles for a refund today and will order more replacement voxelab ones in case my current nozzle fails for some reason. Perhaps I got a bad batch or it looks like there may be multiple sellers on Amazon offering the item and the one I got was inferior quality.
Had to be a bad batch or a ptfe misalignment or gap. Unless your particular nozzle was off center or not drilled correctly. Not saying it’s not possible. Just rare.
I just wanted to chime in and share that I had the same experience. The nozzle was the culprit of my issues and once I replaced it with my stock one, all worked well again.
Ok I'm sold, did you get anywhere with the UK afilate links, I feel bad if I'm getting stuff on your recommendation but not getting anything out of Amazon for it
Thanks for the video. I'll check out the harden steel nozzle! Also would you recommend a direct drive for the acquilla? New to 3d printing so I'm not sure if it's the way to go.
I love the idea of direct drive but I like the idea of keeping the moving hot end as light as possible more. Less weight means staying level longer, the motor work less, and more accuracy in general.
You have to let the plate cool all the way. Like cold to the touch. If it’s still stuck, you can put the print plate in the freezer for minute. Just make sure it’s not hot going in.
@@3DPrintSOS awesome! I've been having some clogging issues, I'll give this a try. Thanks for the quick reply and always love the videos, very informative.
Hi 3DPrintSOS, Okay I thought I update you about the It seems going on forever repairing and replacements etc. I seem to still be fighting! I got the hot end to change out fully since the original one was as I told you goop fully up with melted and then set hard plastic. As I said I got the plastic all off and cleaned the hot end block, However this is not usable now. I have now got a new hot end and since I can't get the original heater unit and thermistor out due the the screws held in by the plastic that sipped inside the screw holes and set tight. I have now got brand new set of heater units and the thermistor's and will use the new hot end to replace the non-working one. One thing is that is, Although the new wires of the heater unit and the thermistor is more than long enough to reach down to the main board, How do I install them right on the main board and also how the heck do I get them to go through the flex protection wiring mesh that the other wires go through from the base to the hot end? Plus I have new fans for the fan housing on the hot end, however there wires are only 1/4 the the needed length and have a connect white plug there and can't go down to the main board. I not a soldering iron type, So is there a way to attach the short wires of the fans to the connectors on the main board without soldering? Or is that the only way. Be nice if you could do a video about hot end full replacement when the other one is fully un-usable and has to be changed over to a new hot end and show close up how to sort the wiring out and where to and how to attach the new wiring to the board. And how to do the fans wire wise if the wires on the fans are too short to reach to the main board. Sorry to be a pain, I can't access the Discord you have as it won't let me type anything on there even though I do have a password already. I tried your discord link you gave me But again the damn system invites me in by the join invite button, When I get there it states to complete the verify process I must claim the free available invite request and clicking on there asks for me email and password. I do them and it states that That email is already in use by someone else? Yes I know that is me who owns it. But still no amount of setting checking or try's to log in work? So until we sort out why it is being a pain I can't log on to talk to you and the other good 3D printing persons and save having to type here ever time and of course I can show pictures of the problems I having better online at discord. Thank you. 8 )
Hmm. I wonder what it can be. I’ll see if there another way to invite you to discord. You could just cut off the sleeve and wrap it in a new sleeve after. And I thin soldering is your best bet.
Great video, thanks again for the great info, brother! I have been having some mad clogging issues as I have been using multiple materials very closely together. After taking things apart and looking closely I can see the exact issue you mention where the tube pulls away a bit and material gets in there. Anyway, I have the new tubing on order and will be getting this fixed asap. Thanks! PS - What was the music you were using in the video? Love it.
Awesome. That should solve it. I get all my music from “royalty free music” here on TH-cam. I honestly don’t remember exactly. I have to dig around. Awesome. I love that this machine can do all this.
Hey everybody! I am back up and running again. My main problem had to be a loose connection on the main board. After checking all of the connections and tightening the screws on the power cables her brain got right again. I think I had a bad thermistor connection. Since I had to go in I replaced the fan. I replaced the fans in the hot end as well. I replaced the wheels that had flat spots. I relined the hot end and put a new nozzle on it. Ran PID and now I'm cooking with plastic again. Printing your extruder upgrade right now. Do you know of anyone out there working on improving the display and the firmware? Thanks for all the help. Working on the all metal hotend , still have a bit to learn. In a word RETRACTION!!!
Before I pick up any hobby/interest I like to soak up as much information I can before actually diving into it, and your videos are definitely top tier prime material for learning. You don’t over-explain things, but you also don’t skip over any important details that beginners should know about it. You definitely make it easy for us to pick up and I’m super grateful for that. Keep it up you’re helping a lot of people.
Thank you! That’s really the goal here, explain without overdoing it. :)
Did all of this to my Aquila and added the CR touch. What a difference. Thanks for your videos.
Awesome. Glad I could help.
I'm so glad you're covering this printer! So many of the larger channels seem too heavily sponsored by the competition to look at this. I bought this based upon your videos and used your promo code. Thanks! Liked and subscribed 👍
Awesome. Yeah that’s probably true. They are also trying to cover a lot more because their audience is much much larger. For now, I’m really enjoying pushing this printer and sharing my experiences. :) thanks for your support.
Just finished. New to 3D printing. Printer was a gift. Was having lots of gummed up printing after several successful prints. Instructions easy to follow and, well, printer works perfectly again.
Awesome. Glad to hear it.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos. Every time I go to do an upgrade on my aquila I find you've already done a video covering the topic. It's walked me through every step. Thank you. Liked and subscribed.
Appreciate that. Glad I could help.
Ok so the first washer…which direction did you drop it in? The small ting up or down?
I'm not ready for this yet. Just made my first print last night and I'm still getting that hang of it.
Whats the washer you drop first into the hotend? I have printed two of the washer you have in the description but the washer is way to big to fit into the little hole?? 8:16
I just found your channel because I am going to be buying this 3d printer and your videos have been very helpful.
Hi Aaron. When you “squish” that tube in-between the hotend like that, it prevents the issue of backing out slowly over time. Which creates a gap between the PTFE and the nozzle. That little cavity will cause sudden extruding issues and clogs. So this completely removes that issue from the picture.
If I used the direct drive print that you did would I need to do this or would that negate the need?
Swapped the tube and a metal extruder two weeks in. Made a good difference.
Just got an assortment of nozzles today! Went with brass to see what mm size I like. Then going to get the carbide versions.
Check out zodiac. It’s next level.
@@3DPrintSOS Looked on their site, any ETA on when they’ll be available to us?
Dude, thanks SO much for making these videos. Just picked up an Aquila in the Prime Day sale because of you. Love my Prusa Mini but this one is great for less than half the price. Keep up the good work! Your video quality is great and your instructions are awesome.
Really appreciate that. Glad I could help.
Brass will heat and cool much more quickly. Once warmed up, steel will hold heat better than brass, which should be good for 3D printing. I've ordered the steel nozzles to try. Good video and topic, Fedor. The hard science behind it is worth understanding.
There’s gotta be a reason why the “high end” nozzle companies use steel. ;)
The property relevant to quick heating or cooling is not thermal conductivity, but thermal diffusivity (e.g. how quickly a thermal difference will propagate through a material). Brass' thermal diffusivity is ~3.5 times that of hardened steel.
Regarding retaining heat, the relevant property is volumetric specific heat (how much heat is retained for a given volume, since the nozzles are the same size). In this case, hardened steel's is around 17% higher.
TL;DR you are right, but for the wrong reasons.
The reason for using hardened steel is the "hardened" term: you can print abrasive filaments without instantly ruining your nozzle (as would happen with a brass one).
Yes, this is really the main reason for me personally. Brass nozzles get worn out fast when you print with abrasives like GITD or Wood. :)
@@mariohernandez1111 Story of my life!
You have been a great help in my 3D printing learning experiance and I have ordered fans and nozzles through your links and the flexible filement, keep putting out ther great Aquilla videos!
Bought some more tubing and this time got a cutter with it and I think I maybe when I replaced the tubing the first time I didn't have it cut straight and the clip that holds the tubing wasn't actually secure on the hot end side so I imagine it was probably moving which would then cause the problems I was having but I still wanted to try this out and see how it does.
I did this last night to mine (more to fix my printing issues then to be able to print at extreme temps) and I think I may be able to trust the printer to do more then an hour or two. Previously I would have nothing but issues with clogging and you could hear the extruder skipping (making a "thunking noise"), even on the shorter prints I'd have some issues but they would come up fairly OK but not as good as my ender 5. Previously if I printed anything that took longer then an hour or two the layers just wouldn't stick together and you could peel the layers or simply crush it in your hand with no issues.
I'm going to do more testing tonight and think I have to tweak a couple settings as I was getting some stringing now.
When I was researching purchasing another printer this one kept coming up and I was hearing nothing but great things about it and the price couldn't be beat. I got it all set up, worked fairly good on the few prints I tried so I tried longer prints, either 1 piece that was larger or several smaller pieces) and then I that's when started having issues galore, having to replace multiple nozzles and so I stopped trying to print for more then an hour or two at a time on this printer and stuck to my more reliable ender 5 but now I'm excited to see if I can trust this one to print for longer. Read online how lots of people were doing long 10-20 hour prints no issues but in the end I just didn't have to time to really dig into it and start pulling things apart again but then I came across this video a week or two ago and thought I would give it a shot and see. thanks for your great channel.
Glad to hear you decided to work on the machine and problem solve. The Ender 5 and the Aquila’s components are actually VERY similar. So by you learning and fixing this machine, you’ll know what to do when the Ender5 runs into them. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS Ender 5 was my first machine and have had for quite some time now and I've done a few mods over that time to it already and it has been relatively problem free. The Aquila on the other hand has given a lot of issues by comparison (with some of the same modifications made from what I learned from owning the ender 5).
Last night I started up a print and ended up hearing the clunking noise again every so often, checked the nozzle and was able to clean it out but I have some spares still but may have to look at ordering some more soon just to have and I'm going to double check the leveling again today to make sure it's just not too close to bed.
Wonder why this is happening. How is your spring tension on the extruder lever? Maybe it’s just too loose? Are you making sure you’ll ptfe tube is being held flush to the nozzle by the coupler? Those can be a pain.
I made a quick video. Check this one out: th-cam.com/users/shortsDbMdL1KFB8o?feature=share
Well done. I've been messing around with my FLSun Q5 this week, but this mod is next up for the Aquila. Thanks!
Good timing. ;)
Dude you save me a lot of time and headache. New to 3d printing by a couple of months, though no stranger to 3d graphics.
:)
I'm just curious, could the printed spacer also work at the extruder end in order to help with alignment?
You could but it wouldnt serve the same purpose. The main reason for the spacer is to stop the PTFE tube from wiggling away from the nozzle and causing clogging. Not at issue on the extruder side.
Hi, I have a doubt
I can install the ender 3 hotend on my aquila. I have problems and I want to replace it along with its other accessories. I think they are the same voltage
It should be a direct replacement. Both machines are 24v
For the heating pad is that the glass one? can you attach the link where you bought it. Really appreciate. Thank you
I tried hard to figure out what heating pad you’re talking about but I honestly not sure what you’re referring to. Haha. Help me help you.
Been loving this printer from the first day. Printing silk pla right now after using glow in the dark for a month now
Nice! You must have gotten a GITD that want too abrasive. Mine chewed through my nozzles.
Thank you so much for passing your knowledge on to us. I emailed you with a question about my new printer and you helped me get it printing correctly. Thank you so much and please keep posting the vids. Peace out. ✌
Anytime! I’ve been enjoying helping others.
@ 6:50 you unscrewed that piece with ease. When I tried to unscrew mine, the frame holding the hot end was wanting to bend. I didn't want to dent the rails so I stopped but why is it so stuck?
Hmm. Shouldn’t be THAT hard. Are you putting some heat in the system? Maybe heating the hotend for a bit will help.
@@3DPrintSOS I had originally heated it up but cooled it down before attempting. I'm gonna try again and heat it up while doing so.
@@3DPrintSOS ya it's over tightened or something, tried again this time rollers came outta railing while I was holding it too. Might of damaged something cuz now it's wobbling a lil bit.
Oh man! That’s not tight, that’s practically seized. The rollers can be adjusted, the bottom roller has an eccentric nut. Use the wrench that came with the printer to adjust it to make it right again. Although, it might be better to remove the whole hotend off the printer and try a vice and a wrench.
@@3DPrintSOS lol rite I adjusted the rollers and it is fine now, scared me that doing that knocked it out that much. Luckily no dents on the railing. I was thinking that too, that I would have to disassemble 😓
Just got my aquila x2 yesterday. Got it running today. I put a metal dual gear extruder on right away. Everything else is bone stock. I printed out the printer test thing on the SD card and it looked fine but I broke it trying to just pull it off and I noticed that the layers didn't seem to stick together as well. I'm using a new roll of PLA I got also. I upped the hot end heat to 210 from the preprogramed 200 and I'm seeing what that does. I'm printing out the "tool box" that's on the SD card now. Looking forward to learning more. Sub'd to the channel.
Nice! Congrats on the new machine. Keep in mind that for a dual gear extruder, you need to recalibrate your esteps. From what I understand you cannot get the steps high enough on stock firmware for a dual gear extruder. That's why I always recommend sticking with stock or printing my block and lever from thingiverse. Unless, you dont mind going aftermarket firmware and calibrating steps, in which case, dual gear is definitely stronger.
@@3DPrintSOS OHHHH . I didn't know that. I guess I'll let this tool box finish and then look at doing that. I did see a video you had loaded about updating the machine to 3rd party firmware that opens up more settings. I assume I could do that in there? I don't see any real downside to loading a 3rd party if it plays well with everything. I don't really see a downside to it.
Thxs great vid once again, could not find the link for printing the very small washer...
Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4285465
I typically put these in the description ;)
#helpanoob wont the printed washer melt when printer is printing? or do the pieces not melt after getting printed?
If you use PETG, you should be good. The fan cools the hotend enough to keep that area cool. It would only melt if you have fan issues.
I need some help I bought voxelab Aquila but I'm having problems it would over Extrude filament when heating up and when it's prints gumming it up 😫 !! I need your advice in it and thanks.
What do you over extrude when heating up? A bit of ooze as the printer heats is normal. As the hotend gets hot, if there is plastic in the nozzle, it will drop out. No way to really stop that without taking filament out before hand.
Usually things gum up because of a leveling issue. Check out my easy leveling video. It will help big time.
Is there any reason to not replace the entire bowden tube with the PTFE?
Yes, doing it this way helps eliminate the slop in between the ptfe tube and the nozzle. A critical spot that has molten filament there and can cause clogs if a gap develops. Two birds, one stone. It IS much simpler do to the whole line.
@@3DPrintSOS cool, I have a tecboss tubing on order, I'll use your setup per your suggestion.
@@3DPrintSOS okay, after watching a second time, perhaps a third, I better understand what you're doing. You're trying to keep the PTFE tube from moving around inside the hot end. This setup allows one to use your printed washer to keep that piece from moving around. Makes perfect sense now
Yes! That’s exactly it.
How deep is the washer supposed to go down? I feel like mine is getting caught near the bottom of the threads
Maybe I'm crazy...or maybe I just missed something in the comment thread, but did you use two spacers? It looked like you dropped one in before inserting the PTFE tubing into the hotend?
My fault for not making that clear. Just one spacer.
@@3DPrintSOS No wories...it looked like you put something in there and I went back a bunch of times listening to see if you mentioned two...you didn't, but I thought I'd check. Your videos have been literally life-saving for my printer experience...I am only two weeks in and thanks to you and some other individuals, I haven't had to endure some of the learning curve lessons. Thanks immensely for what you do!
That’s why I like to hear. Glad I could help. :)
Nice videos covering this printer.
I just picked one up at a ridiculous low price.My 3rd customer return printer,for less than half price,complete just needing a few tweaks to work properly.
A quick tip for vernier caliper usage...the thin blade that extends when you open the the jaws is used for depth measurements.
Nice! And thanks for the tip!
Interesting video, thanks! I have a nicely modded Ender 3 that I love and have now added the Aquila as a second printer. You cannot beat the Aquila price for what you get, i'll probably never buy another Ender 3.
Same same. :)
Great Video. I did the Hot end swap and put new PTFE tubing on my Aquila as well. This was after I remixed part of your Bowden block(Awesome job by the way!) so it has a tie down loop for cable management. Your videos have been great and helpful!
Ah that’s right. Nice mod. I just let mine hang. Haha.
Couldn't you just put the high temperature tubing in full length and skip the lining?
Yes. But doing it the way I did also solves the issue with the ptfe couplers allowing movement. Overtime, that movement gets larger, creating retraction issues and clogs that are hard to diagnose. So this method is like hitting two birds with one stone. ;)
Hi 3DPrintSOS.
Great help videos for the Voxelab Aquila, I have a big problem with the connector one the extruder of this printer!
I brought some good quality Clear PETG from my liked filament company "e Sun" their filament is very good indeed.
But I found that the stiffness and twangy effect of the filament was far more than their normal PETG Blue or Black I brought before?
Such that when trying to print a model with it at the right heat for the bed and the hot end,
It was far too hard to get it to stick down even on a fully cleaned bed, the PTFE tube come
out the connector with the filament pushing the tube away from the extruder?
I ended up having to stop the print and of course use the printers auto unload feature.
When the filament got to the extruder end connector it got stuck in the brass connector.
I had to remove the connect and cut of about a foot length of filament to try to get out the filament
out of the connector which was really jammed in at the screw end of it.
The filament broke off level with the screw end but below the level of the plastic collar of the connector.
How do I remove that tiny bit of filament stuck in the connector without damaging the collar?
I can't use the other free connector that come with the printer because that one is not able to hold on the
PTFE tube when printing it just undoes and the filament pushes the tube off the connector!
Can you also post a video of how to step by step dismantle the extruder and use it's bolts and screws
to build the printed new extruder lock you given us the code to print in PETG which we need to print flexible's etc.
Thank you so much.
I would replace that connector. They are a huge pain in the butt and always fail. Not an if but a when type of deal.
@@3DPrintSOS Hello there, Thanks for the advice. Is there a better connector I could replace it with that I can buy on Amazon UK site?
It is a shame that connectors are not better made to allow for the stresses placed on them at the extruder end of 3D printers?
I hope you can get around to doing the help video about how to dis-mantle the extruder and use the bolts and parts to built the printed PETG extruder block you designed that we need for the flexible etc. filaments soon thank you again 8 )
I would just print my extruder and avoid the coupler all together. ;) I have a video on it.
Is MK8 the nozzle compatibility size? Thread of the nozzle to heater?
Yes, these machines take a mk8 style nozzle. It’s both thread, length, and shape make it an mk8.
@@3DPrintSOS thank you! I have had mine for a little over a month. I figured I should probably order some of these and keep them on hand. This video is also super helpful. I enjoyed it and will be a long time viewer...
In the video you didn't really show which way the spacer goes in. Does it go in with the raised end down or up, or does it even matter?
It does, there is a “funnel” side. That should go up. It will help the filament guide itself into the hole.
Thanks, I thought that might have been the case, I just wanted to make absolutely sure. Thanks for this GREAT channel...
Glad I could help in someway.
My spacer doesn't seem to fit past the threads, should I try reprinting it or just try sanding down the edges a bit?
Sanding a bit should work. You think it printed over extruded? You can maybe reprint with less flow.
@@3DPrintSOS I finally got it in. I think some of the brim was still on. I also had my printer heated up the second time I tried and it fell right down. I don't know if that made any difference.
Hi Fedor! I installed the washer and blue PTFE when I first got my original Aquila, and the M6 coupler kept backing out, even though I tightened it as much as possible without crushing the PTFE liner inside the hotend. I noticed that the thread coating on the coupler is worn off, any idea what to use?
Really? I haven’t had that happen before. Wonder if your ptfe tube is just a hair too long. You can always try Teflon tape around the threads
the 2 links for the PTFE tubing do not work anymore. All i can find is rated up to 260c. do you know where I can find some rated up to 300c now.
Wish I could. The company hasn’t responded after they sold out because of the video. I tried emailing, using their website form, looking for them on social...nothin. The Capricorn tubing is the next best bet.
I suspect disappearance of Tecboss might be due to their 300 degree rating for their PTFE tubing being dangerous. Capricorn is highly regarded, and they claim the XS version is somewhat more capable of withstanding deformation to 280C. There's a nice table of Safe Printing Temperatures at captubes.
I have a question. Any help would be appreciated. Could I just run the new PTFE tube the wholde way? Thank you, and I love your videos
You could. But you’d bypass the entire fix. The point is to “squish” this piece of ptfe tube between the nozzle and top of the hotend. This prevents clogging caused by wiggle in the PTFE couplers.
Ok @@3DPrintSOS
i found, that pushing the fitting all the way to the other end (you mentioned that)worked really well...i think it's the way the fitting is made to trap in one direction. i did this modification as well(X2), with the unassembled unit. the brass fittings are hexagonal and a reduced end on a multi-blade drive worked to get it loose(the tool from Vox, slipped, before i used the nut driver.) the shroud on the 2 seems more tricky to remove, from my experience. nd, i cut a much longer length of the PTFE material and installed that, rather than the short piece....is ok, yes?
I'm still an amateur in all this, but as someone who frequently experiences major anxiety about whether he made the right decision in terms of hobbies, your channel seriously reassures me that I made the right choice by buying the Aquila as my first printer.
Thanks for the kind works. Glad I could help in some way.
@@3DPrintSOS I just ordered a spool of yousu PETG after watching one of your other videos, soon as it arrives i'm gonna print the washer off and install this mod (along with some others)
looking forward to getting more printing done once i move beyond the basic PLA i've been using.
Nice! Moving on up.
I just tried to install the hardened steel MK8 nozzles in your link and it destroyed my hot end. Def not the same threads but I do have the Aquila X2. Any info on nozzles that fit the X2 would be greatly appreciated.
Well that’s interesting. All Aquila’s and other clones of Enders run an MK8 nozzle. If it has a cone shape, it’s correct. There is also a v6 nozzle but that has different threads and a unique shape. Mk8 should be correct though.
@@3DPrintSOS I wish I could post pictures on here. The hardened steel nozzles appear to be the same thread dimension as the stock nozzle. BUT the threads are much sharper on the hardened steel whereas the brass threads are flattened if that makes any sense. Is there someplace I can post a picture of them side by side for you to see?
Imgur would work or on discord, you can tag me there. I’m sure others would be interested to know as well
My 3d printer 's white teflon tube keeps getting pushed out of the metal bowden tube. It was not popping out before, any suggestions? It just pushes the white tube away and results in filament spooling in the air.
Classic ptfe coupler failure. Happens all the time unfortunately. That’s why I tell people to print and use my printable extruder block because it eliminates the ptfe coupler at the extruder. You can also buy a set of improved couplers if you can’t print. amzn.to/3kwjRaw
@@3DPrintSOS thanks so much, i love ur conentent. Could u provide a link to ur extruder block?
Thank you. Absolutely. Here you go: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647801
What do you do if you are replacing the nozzle and you strip the nozzle
Ouch. I would get things up to temp, then remove the heater block with the nozzle, turn the heat off, remove thermistor and heater cartridge and try to get the nozzle in a vise or vise grips. It should come off. If not, blocks are VERY cheap. :)
I wonder why you didn’t use the depth gauge on your caliper to measure the length for the tube? It’s the little skinny bit that sticks out the other end when you spread the caliper jaws
Because I’m not smart. Only reason. 😂
Don’t say that dude. I wouldn’t be watching your great tuts if that’s the case. Keep up the good job 👍
Appreciate that. But yeah, I just get in the zone and miss all kinds of stuff. I read the comments and look back sometimes in awe. Haha.
Hell boy that little trick was badder than hell!
;)
sorry this is a little of topic i am new to printing and my voxelab aquillax2 is now throwing a message that says" Note : the system doesn't detect the filament. please loading filament."is there any way i can remove the sensor and print with out it , Any help would be greatful
Is there a way to use a micro switch type filement run out sensor on my Aquilla s2 printer? I
have had a Voxelab sensor on order for weeks now and no word on when it will get here. A friend gave me an Ender Sensor and i plugged it in, ,but it doesn't work, the LED shows it sees the filement , but the the print doesn't pause.
That very first washer you dropped in . wont it melt . And do i put it in same way as you did with top washer . just you didn't show what way goes in on and what sort type of washer . so if i print 2 washers drop first one same way round as top washer . . Great video , gonna be doing this next week ,
Do you know exactly how long the ptfe tube has to be ?
I purchased one. But it's 1m long I need to cut it to size.
And does the tube have to reach the nozzle ?
Quick question, in your video, you added a printed washer below and above the captured Capricorn tubing. Please confirm that both printed washers are required.
You just need a single washer at the top of the hotend, under the ptfe tubing.
@@3DPrintSOS Thx
if you just intend on printing pla is this a nessecary modification?
No, but It eliminates the problem of the ptfe fitting having play and causing clogs where the ptfe tube meets the nozzle. So it’s a very nice mod.
I’m new so, question, why not use the new PTF tube to replace the entire length of the original tube?
Because having the fitting hold a piece down inside the hotend prevents a gap from forming between the tube and the nozzle. Stopping clogs and stringing.
@@3DPrintSOS OH ok makes sense. Right after I posted the question I started putting that together. Thank you for the share and the response.
nice upgrades, but at what price is a printer that doesn't need any upgrades for us to perform?
I would say they are all “budget” machines until you are getting around $1,000. Check out the Prusa MK3 and MK3S if you want something out of the box that will likely last significantly longer than a standard “budget” machine.
With that said, checkout some of the bigger TH-cam channels. Some guys use really really expensive machines and have plenty of issues. The only difference is how much the replacement parts cost. 😂
Great videos. Can't wait to watch more, and upgrade my new X2. BTW, has anyone ever told you that you sound like Jay Leno?
Love Leno. I’ll take that as a compliment. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I do too... and yes, that's indeed a compliment!
Can I ask why you don't just replace the whole tube with the new one? Why use the 2 different ones? Super new to 3D printing. I have to order more pneumatic M6 fittings for mine because both of the ones it came with no longer hold the ptfe tube in place, even though its less than a week old. But since it wont hold the tube I cant print the washer you use, so can I just replace the whole clear tube with the new stuff, without using the washer?
You can totally do it without the washer and go all the way down. The reason for it though is sometimes during retractions there can be a bit of play between the nozzle and the ptfe tube. This causes clogs and all kinds of issues. This tube and washer eliminate that problem completely. ;)
Mine has started to jam up at the hot end and just clicks at the extruder. When I pull the filament out it has a couple of blobs that stops you pulling it right out. I'm guessing this mod will fix my issue? Thanks for another great video.
Yes, this would help eliminate the chance of a gap developing between the nozzle and ptfe tube
No matter what I do the bed seems to lose its leveling after 1 print, i have measured and fine tuned everything that's recommended to no avail could the be the cheap springs on the bed
Check this out: th-cam.com/video/Q7Mu05fZNsk/w-d-xo.html This should help!
I will likely try inserting a short segment of borosilicate glass inside the hot end. Borosilicate is less conductive than metals and has a max working temp of around 400C or so. Might have to use silicone on the fitting thread to hold it and not crush/break the glass.
Very interesting idea
my filament only comes out correctly when i manually hold it into the PETG tube, not sure what to do at this point. nozzle isn’t clogged already checked. Have eSun pla +.
Check the lever. Common issue is it cracking.
Why not use the PTFE tube all the way from the entrance of the filament to the nozzle?, Is required to have a cut between the nozzle tube and the rest for some reason?
Only because this helps solve another issue as I mentioned. It stops the movement between the nozzle and ptfe tube. That play can create clogs and other retraction issues.
@@3DPrintSOS Yes I got it, It would be possible to just put a good fittings to avoid that movement?. Btw I'm waiting for my Aquila I ordered after having an issue with the Neptune2, your videos are great man. Thanks
Thanks! Well my extruder block solves the play on that end, so this solves the issues on the extruder end. :)
@@3DPrintSOS I got mi Aquila and it works great. I've made a Z axis guide for the rod. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4912947 is the only mod I have done for now
What’s the best way to get the printed best cause I can’t print it using my 3d printer
Good question. If you can’t print it both your printer...I guess you can visit a library. Some of them have machines you can use for free.
Sweet, I’ll try. One more question, so I decided to replace everything without the printed part. It was working find then it started showing “can’t detect filament” any clue how to fix that
You just have to turn off the filament sensor and it’ll turn off. ;)
@@3DPrintSOS perfect, so how exactly do I do that. I try looking at other TH-cam videos no luck
There should be a setting right in the screen menu. “Filament detection” I believe.
I started printing with PTEG at 228 C and I came back to watch this video again because (I dont know if it is a placebo effect) but I started to get small headaches and lightheaded every time I printed with pteg. Did that ever happen to you when you started out 3d printing high temp filaments .I'm hoping its just placebo but I'm gonna confirm it when I change the tubing.
Woah, no that should t be happening. I would highly recommend some tubing if you’re going to be printing at that temp for a long time. It might be placebo but I’m no doctor and some people are sensitive to things other aren’t aren’t. So please stay safe. If it makes you feel that way, switch materials for sure.
Any ide why I'm getting warping, I'm trying to print two victorinox scales and I have tried almost every setting including re leveling I'm at a loss
If you’ve tried it all, try reducing your cooling fan a bit. Try 50%. You can also delay it to turn on later, not just at layer 2. Sometimes layer 4 or so can work.
Can you please do a video on how to add the filament detection to aquila version 1? I found in the settings it has the option for filament detection, but I do not know how to configure it.
All you need is to add a very inexpensive filament detection sensor. It would work right away as long as you enable the feature in firmware.
I’ll look into grabbing one. My X2 has one. Maybe I can borrow it from there.
is the little printed piece super important? i cant get it to print correctly
Yes. Try to print it very slowly. Check your belt tension
@@3DPrintSOS word thanks man!
having an issue with the hot end stopping printing and it continuing to 'air print'...whuzzit? :)
also better hot end upgrade? i've done the tube replacement, curious if there is a better kit. also looking for extruder upgrades. voxelab X2
Sounds like you have a clog. Check to make sure your ptfe tube is all the up against the nozzle. Also see if you can go a bit hotter on the nozzle at about 220 and see if you can push filament through it by hand.
@@3DPrintSOS i will check those things. i have it mostly disassembled. the heat break has some pla oozed around it.
Ah. Yep, that’s the cause right there. Means there was a gap somewhere between those points of contact. Try to get things a bit heated and clean them up as you go. Careful not to burn yourself.
@@3DPrintSOS there was a little debris in the ptfe tube end i was thinking of getting some acetone to soak nozzles and clean things with...no heat...;) except for the threads on the inside of the block, it's pretty clean.
Acetone won’t do much. That would work on ABS. But not really much else. You could use a Heathgun potentially
I’m having issues with the layers being printed on top of my supports being of really poor quality and messy, is this because of layer height or another issue, I’m quite confused.
I am also using an Aquila
It will always be a bit “messy” however, you can make the supports more dense to give the print more of a platform.
Will it be possible to remove the PTFE tube again?
For sure.
It would be nice if you tell people they're going to have to bump up their printing temperature for all materials by 50C when they replace their brass nozzle with stainless steel. I spent a day trying to get my printer to extrude any material before I found a comment on the Prusa forums where someone had the same problem I was having. He was told that Prusa recommends bumping the temp as much at 50C (200 -> 250 for PLA for instance) when changing to a stainless nozzle because stainless steel doesn't transfer heat nearly as well as brass. The temp sensor measures the hotend not the nozzle, so to get your stainless nozzle to the same temp as your original brass nozzle, you have to turn up the temp.
50c! Maybe 5-10 Max. 50c is extreme and definitely not typical.
just wanna let you know the tecboss ptfe tubing link from amazon is not working
Looks like they’ve sold out. I messaged them to see if they will have more stock soon. In the meantime, Capricorn is the next best thing. amzn.to/3s5B4tF
@@3DPrintSOS gotcha and thanks for the fast reply, you got a great channel going
Ok so i did this and..... Now it seems to be clogged up. I even had to burn out the washer I printed and tried to backtrack. Im not sure what the exact issue is but from what i am getting, the filament is getting either stuck or clogging right at the hotend. Is there any suggestion or advice? Maybw my hose isn't flush??
Yea it sounds like some sort of misalignment or gap. Maybe the ptfe isn’t flush?
@@3DPrintSOS I'm not entirely sure. I know that the whole thing had to be heated up to clean as much of the washer as i could out first. When I did that I re inserted the original hose but im not sure. This is my first printer so I am learning as I go.
Best way to learn is to do it wrong then do it right. That way, you’ll know both sides. Haha :)
@@3DPrintSOS as soon as I figure it out I definitely wont do it wrong again haha. If.... If the hose is put back into the "red thing".... How deep is ot supposed to go? Am i supposed to feel it? It seems like ot doesn't go near as deep as it did originally
In this case it might help to take the hotend fully off the printer to make sure things are installed right. Then tighten everything when it’s back on and hot.
If you replace the whole tube, the washer is not needed correct? Any reason not to just replace the whole tube?
That’s correct. This mod just helps with the potential issue of having slop in the ptfe fittings. You can save yourself a bunch of steps and just replace the entire thing. That’s what I’ve done on several other machines. :)
@@3DPrintSOS awesome. I'm installing an all new metal extruder so I figured replacing the whole tube works be fine
Yep, you’ll be good. :)
@@3DPrintSOS Even when replacing the whole tube, this mod is still beneficial, right? If you just replace the whole tube as one piece, it could still work away from the nozzle, leaving a gap for filament to collect. With this mod, the washer keeps the short piece of tubing flush with the nozzle, preventing any gap at least at the nozzle end, correct?
Exactly. Yes it would still be worth it. Just knocked out two birds with one stone.
No firmware changes? So the printer is still limited to 260degC ?
How do you update firmware to hit above 250 °C?
You’d have to compile it yourself. There are settings for Max. You have to tell it to be 15deg higher. So if you want the Max to be 300, you’d set 315 as Max in Marlin and compile.
Question for ya mate. In regards to this modification. Right after I did this, I started hearing the ominous crackling sound during printing. Only on the first layer, with all filaments I own. I dried everything, still did it. I removed the washer and short ptfe piece and went back to the stock setup. It quit doing it after that. Print quality picked way up. I think I was getting air sucked into the hotend somehow, moist air. What could have caused that?
Hmm. Wondering if your ptfe was a hair too long and was getting squished into misalignment.
@@3DPrintSOS that’s a good possibility. I’ve got an all metal hotend coming next week, but I’m also getting another Aquila. I’ll probably keep the stock hotend on that one and use your modifications on that one as well. What would a misalignment have to do with the sound and print quality I was getting?
It would make filament harder for the extruder to push. Causing clicks and bad under extrusion
@@3DPrintSOS I was definitely getting under extrusion. Only on the first layer. Speed was only 5mm/s though, and I’m printing PETG. Once the speed picks up it quits doing it. Think the filament is staying in the hotend too long allowing it to boil?
Hmm. If leveling is correct, then maybe its just a flow setting that needs to be increased for the first layer only. Should be easy to test.
Hey Fedor I decided to do this mod today. I made a mistake using a PLA printed spacer, my heatsink seems to reach temperatures at the top that can make pla melt. Maybe it's
the new fan I installed not moving enough air causing heat creep. Anyhow, I was wondering if there is a 3rd party spacer part I could buy that is more heat resistant, or even stack some teflon washers in there instead?
Hmm. It shouldn’t be getting THAT hot up there. How long was the print? PETG is definitely the way to go with these spacers. Or abs or nylon. Sadly, I don’t know of any that would just drop in, without printing one that is.
@@3DPrintSOS 48 hour print. For now I just took a longer section of the capricorn tubing and ran it from the extruder to the nozzle. I have some PETG on the way to print a new spacer and retry the mod. I was surprised it got that hot too so far up the heatsink, it must be the new 40mm fan I added not pushing enough air on those longer prints.
I’ve been hearing more and more about these fans causing heatcreep. I’m guessing I have earlier machines. :/
Hi, after following this tutorial and the one to replace the hotend fan, I am getting a lot of stringing and zits now. Its happening with the same PLA filament and settings I was using before. I have a feeling I could have done something wrong with the washer and the hot end. Is there any particular mistake that would cause stringing and zitting?? I guess its over extruding... Could any of these, or mistakes while modifying, that could cause it to extrude too much?
Sounds like you may have to readjust the retraction a bit. The new tube might be more efficient and have less drag
@@3DPrintSOS, thanks for the response, it really means a lot that you take your time to help us. I was running your Voxelab Profile with 5mm retraction and I upped it to 6mm. I think it got a little better but I'm still getting the really fibrous strings, like super thin. How high can I take my retraction safely, I've tried searching, but its always so vague. How high can I go before I know that the problem isn't retraction?
That’s a good question. Not sure I ever went sure high before. Just keep going up by 5mm until it either gets better or clearly worse. That’s how I do it
@@3DPrintSOS, thanks for your help. Over the past few days I have tried every setting imaginable. I started going up 5mm in distance at a time until 25mm, then I saw online they mention .5mm, so I tried that instead between 6 and 15 going up .5 each time. I have used speeds from 45mm/s to 90mm/s. However, every test looks exactly the same.
I replaced my extruder with a dual drive gear extruder yesterday in hopes of it fixing the problem but no luck. I then undid the hot end fix mod, very hard to get that washer back out btw, and shortened my bowden tube to match the length of the original and put it back in without the fix... still stringing. I am going to re-do the hot end fix today with a new printed washer and make sure I've cut everything perfectly and will let you know if it has any effect.
Do you any other ideas? I'm betting there is something physical or mechanical going on because I've tried so many tests, settings, and pre-defined profiles from reddit, facebook, and youtube designed for PLA Voxelab Aquila.
All tests done with the same roll of filament?
Is there somewhere you can buy the washer?
It’s a free, quick print.
@@3DPrintSOS i was just curious, the printer is down and unknown when it will be fully operational. plus it is my only printer which is why i was asking if this can be bought.
Out of all your printers, which one that you have been using would you recommend if you could only get one?
I would get an Aquila and an Ender Extender to make it a 400x400 print bed since I sometimes need to print larger things. I’d then put on a hotend and nozzle from Zodiac and be absolutely set.
Using Capricorn Tubing Cutters
To use the cutters, simply squeeze to open, and place the tubing in the groove, aligning the path of the blade with where you want to make the cut.
Release the pressure on the blade, and allow it to come to rest on the tubing, so you can make sure it is in exactly the right spot.
Now make sure the tubing aligned in the cutter, and squeeze it between your fingers and thumb.
PTFE is very slippery, and it will want to slide out during the cut, resulting in an end that isn't square. You will be tempted to press slowly and carefully on the cutter, but the trick to getting a good cut is actually to squeeze fast, like using a stapler.
Great instructions! My pair isn’t legit and so it cuts at an angle if you do it any other way. However if I spin it, I’m still getting clean cuts.
whats the Aquila like printing Japanese letters as i will be getting one soon
Hi 3DPrintSOS again, I now got far stronger better extruder end tube connectors and the hot end ones which are great and solved the problems.
I will thought be using your designed extruder block upgrade printed part to replace the extruder connector so I can do Flexible filaments.
Now just as I was about to do your small hot end printed part into the hot end tube connector as per this video
I found that the plastic filament had overflowed the top of the heater block and was encrusted around the top.
I guess this meant the PTFE tube there was not full down the hot end due to the moving tube as you said happens?
Last time this happened to me on my Tronxy X5SA the company told me the hot end block was ruined and they sent me a new one to replace it.
I have managed to remove the melted filament around the block without damaging the wires, Did you think it be best to replace the hot end block or just reuse it?
Great videos as always.
Thanks. 8 )
You can reuse it, just after it’s cleaned, heat it all up and make sure the nozzle is right on there. It should butt into the heatbreak in the block. Otherwise you get a goop
@@3DPrintSOS Thank you, I will clean it full as it is a bit mucky outside on the block and I will change the nozzle to a hard nozzle since I have it all being sorted out anyways!
To think the tube moves just a tiny bit inside and the goop encloses the hot block and with the shroud being so big unless you take it off you would not even know about the goop? Cheers 8 )
what metal extruder do you recommend
Not sure. I’ve never had luck with metals ones because they all use ptfe couplers. And they fail too often. I just print the “Fedorstruder” and never worry about it again. ;)
Thank you for all of your videos, they are a huge help!! My husband already want to upgrade to a new printer. What do you recommend? I’ll keep using the Aquila, but he wants something faster. Thanks!!
Hmm faster? I’m not sure honestly. All of my machines print around the Aquila speed. You can always go way faster with a larger nozzle. Even a .05 mm nozzle can cut the time of prints down by 40%
Hi, voxelab aquila can print at 300 degrees?
It can with 3rd party firmware and an all metal hotend/heatbreak
@@3DPrintSOS great thanks
after watching some of your videos i'm quiet interessted in buying the Aquila as my first 3d printer. but i was wondering, because i didn't seem to find it anywhere, the powersupply... is it a meanwell or a noname?
Good question. I’ve taken it apart but never looked for a brand. I’m going to say it’s a no name but maybe someone else can pitch in.
@@3DPrintSOS more diggin in the web... and i found a review that stated they use meanwell psu's!
Ok,I need you to verify somethng for me. I did this mod when you first did it and I was just starting out using PLA. I knew then that I would eventually would want to do other filaments and now I want to do PETG. I have been told that I need to either get a new all metal hotend or all metal heatbreak due to off gasses. I use Capricorn XS that says it's rated for 300c,so I should be fine printing PETG right? Now if you have a suggestion on an all Metal Hotend for the original Aquila,I'm all for upgrading. 😁I have learned sooo much from your videos,thanks and keep them coming.
You’ll be fine printing petg. You just can’t go much over 240
@@3DPrintSOS Thanks. I've seen people say they used anywhere from 230-245 on PETG.
Be careful replacing your oem nozzle with the hardened steel ones in the link above. I did a bunch of upgrades all at once (replace fans, added crtouch, replaced springs, replaced tubing, replaced nozzle) and I have not been able to geta single print to come out ever since. I had to slowly narrow it down until i finally i reverted back to the stock nozzle and everything prints great again. I returned the nozzles for a refund today and will order more replacement voxelab ones in case my current nozzle fails for some reason.
Perhaps I got a bad batch or it looks like there may be multiple sellers on Amazon offering the item and the one I got was inferior quality.
Had to be a bad batch or a ptfe misalignment or gap. Unless your particular nozzle was off center or not drilled correctly. Not saying it’s not possible. Just rare.
I just wanted to chime in and share that I had the same experience. The nozzle was the culprit of my issues and once I replaced it with my stock one, all worked well again.
Couldn’t even tell you how many nozzles I’ve replaced over the years. I need to make a shirt that says “when in doubt, nozzle out”
That's a good motto!
Ok I'm sold, did you get anywhere with the UK afilate links, I feel bad if I'm getting stuff on your recommendation but not getting anything out of Amazon for it
Still pending sadly. Dude it’s ok man. I really appreciate the gesture but totally no big deal.
Any plans for Klipper and the Aquila in the future ?
I've never looking deep into Klipper to be honest. Could be interesting.
Thanks for the video. I'll check out the harden steel nozzle! Also would you recommend a direct drive for the acquilla? New to 3d printing so I'm not sure if it's the way to go.
I love the idea of direct drive but I like the idea of keeping the moving hot end as light as possible more. Less weight means staying level longer, the motor work less, and more accuracy in general.
My prints are getting hard to take off how do I fix this
You have to let the plate cool all the way. Like cold to the touch. If it’s still stuck, you can put the print plate in the freezer for minute. Just make sure it’s not hot going in.
@@3DPrintSOS thanks
Do you replace your ptfe insert regularly, or does this fix last for a while?
I actually just took it apart to look at after some long high temp prints. Looks new.
@@3DPrintSOS awesome! I've been having some clogging issues, I'll give this a try. Thanks for the quick reply and always love the videos, very informative.
🍻
Hi 3DPrintSOS, Okay I thought I update you about the It seems going on forever repairing and replacements etc. I seem to still be fighting!
I got the hot end to change out fully since the original one was as I told you goop fully up with melted and then set hard plastic.
As I said I got the plastic all off and cleaned the hot end block, However this is not usable now.
I have now got a new hot end and since I can't get the original heater unit and thermistor out due the the screws held in by the plastic that sipped inside the screw holes and set tight.
I have now got brand new set of heater units and the thermistor's and will use the new hot end to replace the non-working one.
One thing is that is, Although the new wires of the heater unit and the thermistor is more than long enough to reach down to the main board,
How do I install them right on the main board and also how the heck do I get them to go through the flex protection wiring mesh that the other wires go through from the base to the hot end?
Plus I have new fans for the fan housing on the hot end, however there wires are only 1/4 the the needed length and have a connect white plug there and can't go down to the main board.
I not a soldering iron type,
So is there a way to attach the short wires of the fans to the connectors on the main board without soldering?
Or is that the only way.
Be nice if you could do a video about hot end full replacement when the other one is fully un-usable and has to be changed over to a new hot end and show close up how to sort the wiring out and where to and how to attach the new wiring to the board. And how to do the fans wire wise if the wires on the fans are too short to reach to the main board.
Sorry to be a pain, I can't access the Discord you have as it won't let me type anything on there even though I do have a password already.
I tried your discord link you gave me But again the damn system invites me in by the join invite button, When I get there it states to complete the verify process I must claim the free available invite request and clicking on there asks for me email and password. I do them and it states that That email is already in use by someone else?
Yes I know that is me who owns it. But still no amount of setting checking or try's to log in work?
So until we sort out why it is being a pain I can't log on to talk to you and the other good 3D printing persons and save having to type here ever time and of course I can show pictures of the problems I having better online at discord. Thank you. 8 )
Hmm. I wonder what it can be. I’ll see if there another way to invite you to discord.
You could just cut off the sleeve and wrap it in a new sleeve after. And I thin soldering is your best bet.
Great video, thanks again for the great info, brother! I have been having some mad clogging issues as I have been using multiple materials very closely together. After taking things apart and looking closely I can see the exact issue you mention where the tube pulls away a bit and material gets in there. Anyway, I have the new tubing on order and will be getting this fixed asap. Thanks! PS - What was the music you were using in the video? Love it.
I use the Aquila and print with ABS, PLA, PLA+, PETG, and TPU.
Awesome. That should solve it. I get all my music from “royalty free music” here on TH-cam. I honestly don’t remember exactly. I have to dig around.
Awesome. I love that this machine can do all this.
Hey everybody! I am back up and running again. My main problem had to be a loose connection on the main board. After checking all of the connections and tightening the screws on the power cables her brain got right again. I think I had a bad thermistor connection. Since I had to go in I replaced the fan. I replaced the fans in the hot end as well. I replaced the wheels that had flat spots. I relined the hot end and put a new nozzle on it. Ran PID and now I'm cooking with plastic again. Printing your extruder upgrade right now. Do you know of anyone out there working on improving the display and the firmware? Thanks for all the help. Working on the all metal hotend , still have a bit to learn. In a word RETRACTION!!!
Nice! Glad it was just a loose connection! Good stuff. Check out reddit for a link to Alex’s Extensible UI firmware. I hear great things.
Hey thanks for the video I need to change the gold tip
I am trying to find some help with my voxelab aquila.
Head to our discord channel, there’s lots of people in there that can help. :)
Can i print the washer with pla+ ?