I love that function generator, too. It's not a particularly good or very versatile one but it's very clean for most frequencies I need. A lot better than the cheap digital ones you can buy these days at least. Plus, it's nice and clunky and has analog controls. :)
Nice video, I will be getting a Philips PM3208 probably by the end of the week, I'll be basically doing something similar, cleaning it all, applying some contacts cleaner to the potentiometers and since it is in working condition then it should be good for me to start diving a bit deeper into electronics, greetings from Colombia.
I have a PM3262 which is from the same era and looks very similar but is a 100MHz scope, i also got it for free, but in my case from a school when i studied electronics there 25 years ago. Since they had bought newer scopes they had this scope in a room and they were going to throw it away, but it still works fine and is in quite good cosmetic condition as well, but the controls could definately do with some contact cleaner though.
Back in the '70's we called that stuff (holding the front panel together) "double-sided tape." It was a remarkable substance -- it came on a roll like cellophane tape, but had sticky adhesive on both sides and a foam-like center acting as the main body of the tape. Obviously, it breaks down over time :)
Great job - looks awesome at the end there =D As Defpom posted - blutac holding the facia on I think. You could get some double sided pads that are thick enough (there's tonnes on eBay) - and mount using those.
+GadgetUK164 Thanks! I was initially thinking of some sort of double sided tape, too. Might be difficult to get the exact right thickness. Maybe I'll just use new blutac. Seems to have worked for quite a while before. ;)
Cilit Bang and the dirt is gone. You should use some on the sealant around your shower. Filthy. But in all seriousness good video, those adjustment knobs are must like the ones on my Gould Oscilloscope (made in Essex!!) that I'm currently working on, I find it easy to get the caps of by using a stanley knife between the knob and the cap.
May i suggest you one thing? Dont, and i repeat, DONT try to disassemble the push buttons: they are incredibly annoying to put them back together. if there is some intermittency, try first squirting some contact cleaner and push the buttons some times. If you want to know how those buttons are inside i can tell you, roughly. If there are some some problems on the rotary switches just extract the whole front assembly and reach in with a rubber pencil. One wafer cant be reached because is really close to the metal shielding: if the 3214 is like the 3212 i had, the best thing to do is: -Remove the pots in line with the rotary switches -The metal back plate should have only one point at which is soldered on the board: desolder it and rotate the plate till you can pull it out. Good luck
Thanks for sharing! For the time being, all the switches and pots on mine seem to work alright (after spraying some contact cleaner in). If they ever fail I will take care.
Yes, something like that probably. It looks like it originally snapped in in a way and some pieces of plastic broke off so the previous owner just glued it on. I will end up doing it similarly, I think.
1970's the golden era of Philips they made almost every thing. from lichtbulbs to toasters to washing machines. from gameconsole to MSX home computers to intel Pc clone.
Yes, you could say I'm a fan of the vintage Philips stuff. If unconsciously, I have quite some Philips gear around and it's all well made as far as I can see. (Okay, even the modern flat screen is quite good...)
Sieht aus wie Fensterkitt. Eventuell nachtraeglich angebracht. Looks like window putty. Maybe an afterthought. Vielleicht koennte man es mit selbstklebendem Klettverschluss fixiere, damit waere es auch moeglich hinterher den Rahmen nochmals zu entfernen. Maybe you could fix the bezel with some self adhering velcro, would give the possibility to remove it afterwards if necessary.
I respect highly anyone who repairs and brings life again to all old TMIs. Thank you Jan.
I feel like I'm probably the only one who is like super impressed by how nice the waveforms generated by the function generator are.
I love that function generator, too. It's not a particularly good or very versatile one but it's very clean for most frequencies I need. A lot better than the cheap digital ones you can buy these days at least. Plus, it's nice and clunky and has analog controls. :)
Nope, you are not the only one... I love those clean and sharp edges at 1mhz.
I really enjoy watching people taking care of old test gear! I also like your function generator at the end of the video. Keep up the good work!
A great clean-up; well worth the effort. And I can't believe you found that scope in the trash.
+MindFlareRetro Thanks! A lucky find indeed. I can only assume that nobody knew what it was and they just threw it out because it was dirty and old.
Jan Jan he's our man, if he can't do it no one can! :D
Haha, thanks! ;)
Nice old scope and good restoration.
Thanks. Love the scope. :)
Nice video, I will be getting a Philips PM3208 probably by the end of the week, I'll be basically doing something similar, cleaning it all, applying some contacts cleaner to the potentiometers and since it is in working condition then it should be good for me to start diving a bit deeper into electronics, greetings from Colombia.
I have a PM3262 which is from the same era and looks very similar but is a 100MHz scope, i also got it for free, but in my case from a school when i studied electronics there 25 years ago. Since they had bought newer scopes they had this scope in a room and they were going to throw it away, but it still works fine and is in quite good cosmetic condition as well, but the controls could definately do with some contact cleaner though.
Back in the '70's we called that stuff (holding the front panel together) "double-sided tape." It was a remarkable substance -- it came on a roll like cellophane tape, but had sticky adhesive on both sides and a foam-like center acting as the main body of the tape. Obviously, it breaks down over time :)
thanks for the video
I just picked up almost the same scope. Mine is the 50mhz version and the controls are the same.
Great job - looks awesome at the end there =D As Defpom posted - blutac holding the facia on I think. You could get some double sided pads that are thick enough (there's tonnes on eBay) - and mount using those.
+GadgetUK164 Thanks! I was initially thinking of some sort of double sided tape, too. Might be difficult to get the exact right thickness. Maybe I'll just use new blutac. Seems to have worked for quite a while before. ;)
Thanks for posting. I'm off to look at a PM 3217 on Craigslist. I'm bringing my function generator.
You should paint the display bezel to make that look good.
Definitely going to do that some time!
Cilit Bang and the dirt is gone.
You should use some on the sealant around your shower. Filthy.
But in all seriousness good video, those adjustment knobs are must like the ones on my Gould Oscilloscope (made in Essex!!) that I'm currently working on, I find it easy to get the caps of by using a stanley knife between the knob and the cap.
On the previous video, I was going to comment on the interesting gold knob. I can't believe the difference.
Yeah, it was just crusted in tar. Still works nicely today by the way. ;)
Ah, so cool!! :-D
The title screen scope!
Indeed! :)
Wow don't it look really good. I'd hate to see the old users lungs and compare them with the state of the scope. Great vid again Jan 😁.....Kim
I think it came from an automotive shop or something. Still works a treat now (and smells a lot better).
May i suggest you one thing?
Dont, and i repeat, DONT try to disassemble the push buttons: they are incredibly annoying to put them back together. if there is some intermittency, try first squirting some contact cleaner and push the buttons some times. If you want to know how those buttons are inside i can tell you, roughly.
If there are some some problems on the rotary switches just extract the whole front assembly and reach in with a rubber pencil. One wafer cant be reached because is really close to the metal shielding: if the 3214 is like the 3212 i had, the best thing to do is:
-Remove the pots in line with the rotary switches
-The metal back plate should have only one point at which is soldered on the board: desolder it and rotate the plate till you can pull it out.
Good luck
Thanks for sharing! For the time being, all the switches and pots on mine seem to work alright (after spraying some contact cleaner in). If they ever fail I will take care.
I washed my old tv with a garden hose. No need to take out all the electronics, just put it in a dry place for a month.
+Joseph Nicholas Yes, water is not a problem for most electronics if you let it dry properly. :)
Great save! Didn't it require any electronics work? Shame because that would have made for a sweet scope repair :)
I was kind of hoping for it to have issues but I couldn't find anything wrong with it except for dirty contacts. ;)
It looks like blutack holding the screen bezel
Yes, something like that probably. It looks like it originally snapped in in a way and some pieces of plastic broke off so the previous owner just glued it on. I will end up doing it similarly, I think.
1970's the golden era of Philips they made almost every thing. from lichtbulbs to toasters to washing machines. from gameconsole to MSX home computers to intel Pc clone.
Yes, you could say I'm a fan of the vintage Philips stuff. If unconsciously, I have quite some Philips gear around and it's all well made as far as I can see. (Okay, even the modern flat screen is quite good...)
Für die Klebereste kann ich dir nur Feuerzeugbenzin empfehlen. Damit geht sowas super einfach weg.
Oh, das hätte ich sogar da gehabt. Ging mit Alkohol aber auch ganz gut am Ende.
Sieht aus wie Fensterkitt. Eventuell nachtraeglich angebracht.
Looks like window putty. Maybe an afterthought.
Vielleicht koennte man es mit selbstklebendem Klettverschluss fixiere, damit waere es auch moeglich hinterher den Rahmen nochmals zu entfernen.
Maybe you could fix the bezel with some self adhering velcro, would give the possibility to remove it afterwards if necessary.
You need to sort the focus on your camera
I love this oscilloscope porn.
+Joseph Nicholas I love this scope. Would love to make more porn but I think chances are a bit slim of finding one on the sidewalk again. ;)
I'm glad your doing it not me... Yuck!
You don't know how to remove the knobs on that oscilloscope.