DIY Flat Yard Drainage Project | Yards With No Slope
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- Easy way to help support the channel - www.buymeacoff...
I will walk you through how I extended my downspouts 32 feet away from my home and installed adDry well to help drain water away from the foundation. Before I only had a 4-foot downspout extension, my sump pump was always running since the drains along the foundation would pull water out of the soil for days or weeks after a rain. Additional drainage videos included in the playlist below.
Drainage Playlist: • Drainage
NDS Drywell Used: amzn.to/3ohLRix
Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs
Makita Corless Drill Combo Kit: amzn.to/2Jsw78j
Dewalt Drill Bit Set: amzn.to/2w0xAA4
Dewalt Screwdriver Bit Set: amzn.to/2UqTvK9
Craftsman Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3bAsNEG
Eklind Allen Wrench Set: amzn.to/2wKDu8M
Pliers (4-Piece Set): amzn.to/2JlYUM7
Milwaukee Fastback Utility Knife: amzn.to/2Us2pqG
Stanley Tape Measure: amzn.to/2WPzr5K
Studbuddy Stud Finder: amzn.to/38MdzfV
Johnson Torpedo Level: amzn.to/3dzx5Ot
Stanley Hammer: amzn.to/39tudPL
Buck Bros Wood Chisel Set: amzn.to/2QTebYO
Klein Voltage Tester: amzn.to/2XMa1I2
Klein Outlet Tester: amzn.to/39GyO33
Wire Strippers: amzn.to/2NHHKuS
Little Giant Ladder: amzn.to/2UrFmfG
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
I've done two drywells at my house. I used two 5 gallon buckets spliced together and filled with pea gravel. I have a popup that releases excess water during heavy rain storms.
How much water does it hold with all of the pea gravel?
You're a great communicator. Super easy to understand everything. Nothing missed!👏
Thanks for the series! We're in the middle of closing on my first house and noticed the downspouts just unleash right by the foundation. Unfortunately there is a concrete driveway just a foot or two directly beside it. Looking at digging a trench parallel to the driveway to the backyard where there's a steep slope and let it drain that way.
As a non handy-man person, these videos are making me feel comfortable in knowing what to do when I get started!
Nice! Best of luck on the project. Sometimes it takes a few iterations and several rainstorms to get it right 👍
Sounds like a good idea..hope it worked. Had something similar in my home. Ran 6 in pvc pipe along with 4 12in catch basins connected with 2 downspouts to drain towards the curb. With all the summer rain we get here in southwest Texas, it helps.
Boy, how such drainage experts are needed in Southern Oregon. A wasteland of contractors.
Honestly it is pretty tough anywhere to find a contractor that will do a good job helping you with drainage. If your lawn has a nice slope it isn't bad but if you have a flat lawn such as this there is some planning involved which is were finding good help really becomes tough.
I hope I never need all of that. Just watched from today's (11/7/2023) *DIY Guide To Installing Gutters.* Thanks, Scott.
All of a sudden I feel like I have drainage issues at home that need to be fixed!
Ignorance is bliss isnt it! Just get the water away from your home. that's number 1
🤣🤣🤣 Me too... Let me check
PERFECT !
Very similar problem with my property and also i have bit high water table. Appreciate really your advise.
Can't wait to see a follow up video. Tip - throw in a little rubber duckie or random floating toy so you can easily see the water level in the dry well during your next big rain!
Black corrugated above grade is terrible looking at the house. Schedule 40 or thinner at the gutter downspout in white with a clean out right at grade with a threaded clean out would have be much nicer looking
Good thing there’s spray paint in white
He also has it tucked behind that bush so it ain't gonna be all that visible.
Functionality over looks anyday
I recommend a shave and a nice wax job too. Looks matter.☮️
dig a hole the size of a bin and fill it with broken brick, rocks, pea gravel, crushed pop cans, and sharp sand and top it off with 5-inches of topsoil and that's it, for 20 feet in every direction your ground will be bone dry, its called a field drain and is the oldest method for drying land, make sure your hole goes down past the clay level, that's what keeping your land wet, no pipes, gutters, drains catchment funnels, just a big hole filled with rubble,
if your down spourt drains toward your house, try changing it to another corner where the slope leads away from the house.
I'm impressed.
I want to see the final product
Thanks for the series, they are really helpful!
Hey. TechZone stole your picture for their thumbnail. They painted it blue and replaced the pipe, but same well, house, landscaping, and piles of dirt.
excellent video!
Thx Andy!
A tip i leared on filling in trenches is to use a garden hose as you fill back. we try fill about 1/3 of the trench then fill it with water and use spades to break up clods, work them up and down like you are getting out air bubbles in concrete, fill another third repeat and then top it off with last bit of dirt, spasde it again. you are basically making mud. then when using the spades up and down you are compacting it, then lay they sod on top and press in with rake and then tamp down. once tapped down and water has drained off clean the dirt off the grass with a spray nozzel, a few days later you cant even tell you were there. Love the video, always good to learn something new
I like this idea I’m gonna use it
For future projects put your wye in the ground and cap it off to hide it a lot better.
This was excellent, thank you
I dug a hole Over 7' deep And used 3 flo - well barrels with gravel and cloth and one month later my yard is flooded again
Great task,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, ONELOVE.
Nice system but why not use PVC instead of that corrugated pipe that seems to trap leaves that get in.
In this case I went with the 4" corrugated since I am well above the frost line I like the flexibility of the corrugated compared to PVC. Since I put the wye at the start with the cleanout I feel I should be able to flush the pipe out if needed. Just my 2 cents 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs you can also use a catch basin at the downspout
@@robertgerber2533 You really don't want to do that. A lot of water splashes back. But corrugated doesn't clog any more than pvc if it is put in right.
Wow.. nice job!
Thx!
We put one of these in a few years ago. Every time it rained or we washed off our patio the water would cover most of our patio and leave dirt and debris behind when it dried. We were going to use the plastic liner that was used in this video but when we got about two feet down we discovered a layer of sand. Maybe we're on top of an ancient riverbed. Regardless, it looked to us that the sand would provide such good drainage the we didn't need the plastic liner. We dug down about another foot, put in the cloth and then filled the hole with gravel. It worked great. We had some of the heaviest rain we've ever had this year. The water rose just to the edge of our patio and then receded almost immediately after the rain stopped.
The alternative was to install a long drain pipe around our house to the street. To say the least this way was massively cheaper and we are doing our part to recharge the groundwater :).
This is exactly my situation, plans, and philosophy!
Scott, this comment is not related to this video. I just wanted to say thank you for making the video using SPAX screws. I recently completed a home improvement project and I decided to give the SPAX screws a try. Totally awesome screws!! I did not have to predrill holes into wood and the screws did not strip. I used Milwaukee shockwave impact duty square #1 bit along with the SPAX screws and not one screw stripped. Again, thank you for all your videos!!
If you think SPAX are great I highly recommend you try GRKs. In my opinion they are worth the cost and even better than SPAX.
How do you dig that length and know you are at a 1 1/2 degree pitch? And that pipe is deep enough that it will not get crush if something heavy goes over it? Would love to do this at my house ,but at this age and limited funds it is not in the cards.
Hope you have sandy soil. That system doesn't have a chance in clay soil.
Landscape fabric over/around that corrugated pipe though, right? Otherwise it'll eventually get enough dirt inside to reduce performance?
curious as to what you installed. it looks undersized for the volume of water (sf at 2" rain/hr in typical locations) which adds quite a bit of cf area required. last, the 1.5% = 3/16" pitch on pipe which is a bit less than the 1/4" required in most areas
Corrugated is awful. Won't last. PVC only.
Home builder for 41 years the black corrugated pipe always ends up with leaves and twigs and get stopped up and it will be useless very soon use schedule 40 PVC not the cheap thin stuff any traffic in the yard will crush the thin stuff and you're saving very little money your dry well is definitely too small all you going to do is move you wet spot somewhere else adding dirt to the foundation raises the level next to the foundation makes termites situation worse
Thanks for the feedback Keith!
40 PVC is a huge pain to deal with compared to the green, thinner pvc intended for lawns. I did a run with it a few years ago and it was a waste of money and time; requires a much more perfect trench because it doesn’t flex, for one thing. Welding 4” is less forgiving as well. Properly packed into the trench the green stuff is fine because it cannot compress without also pushing soil outwards. Agree on smooth wall!
Just rent a mini ex and dig a large trench behind the dry well you installed. Install infiltrator sewer chambers. Maybe 10 feet. Pour gravel all around and over it. Run a 4 inch pipe from your existing dry well over to the infiltrators in new trench (which are a little lower grade). Your just boosting it with more capacity and drain ability with what I'm suggesting. But adjust it to fit the size of yard you are dealing with....
Absolutely correct. In 2010 my grandpa used 4in thin wall all around the drive way for drainage. It's now in an oval shape and very brittle. I dug it up and it cracked by stepping on it. I only use 40, and it's absolutely worth the time and extra few bucks. Thin wall underground will not last. All situations are different, but it is best to be safe than sorry.
Nice work!
Silly question … where does the water eventually go? Evaporates ?
We had one of these installed and it created a giant sinkhole
Good luck with that system in real hardpan clay soil. Just put a pump in and send it to the street.
Well thought out and explained :)
Instead of the white rocks, you should use bank run gravel which is round stones. Much better for drainage, and less likely to clog with soil.
Always a Monday Morning quarterback in
@@jimbo2325 No Monday morning quarterback, just 40 years in the landscaping business. I've seen lots of failed drainage systems that used the wrong stone, but you apparently don't know anything about that. Before commenting, learn the facts.
@@lacro5686 Thanks for letting me know the facts. Guess you know it all.
This perfectly summarizes the best and worst of the Internet right here. The benefit of a massive base of individual experience, combined with needless antisocial pecking at each other.
I have 10 years experience in TH-cam commenting and the rock used will get the job done.
i dont get your systems. In Australia our downspouts are connected by pipe underground to the road and then into our stormwater system directing the roof catchment away from the house altogether. this system of catching it and dumping it all at the foundations of the house seems illogical.
Connecting you downspouts to the road storm water system, might not be a good idea. Ever see a back flow of pressure blow off a man hole cover, then a geyser of water shooting 25 feet in the air. That could back feed into your house.
You obviously don't have ground water issues in Australia where you live!
Scott: very interesting solution, simple is good. How did it work over the past 2 years ?
It has been solid. Only in the heaviest rains does the pop up let water out the top. Super happy with the installation.
excellent to hear, I believe strongly in simple solutions, thanks ! @@EverydayHomeRepairs
Why didn’t you run it out to the street for the storm drain? Wouldn’t that have been the best option.
Yeah, that would have been ideal. I don’t mind keeping some water on the property and would have to trench another 50’-60’ plus go under the sidewalk.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs so instead of doing it properly, you took a quick fix!! So where does the water go when dry well is full?? Stupid!!
The pop up emitter at the top will let the extra water out and it will flow down the slope in the lawn. And it’s Mr Stupid, thank you.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs 😂😂😂
Nailed it!!!!
✌
Oh what a dream that would be! Lol In most places I've lived, DEP has rigid regulations and tying into city/county is only an option once survey and historical data confirm capacity, overflow, etc AND permitting is approved. They don't want to strain capacity nor poison water supply/treatment with lawn chemicals and pesticides.
Not sure if that's the case everywhere, but it has been the case everywhere I've lived for at least the last decade across multiple states
Forget that dry well ..its giving you no more than 5 square feet of drainage. Get about 8 or so sections of that drainage pipe (that is perforated) 15 ft long each
Dig a trench 2ft wide at least 18 inchs down ..lay the 8 sections of pipe and wrap it. ..you now have a void that collects drainage water with 30 square feet of drainage.
With dry well tanks there is just too much water going to a small square footage. Just make sure you use a good quality pipe that won't crush under the weight.
a major drawback of using this type of non perforated corrugated drain pipe is that when it clogs (as it invariably will at some time) it can not be rodded out without damage to the pipe. Although slightly more expensive it is better to use the white smooth wall non-corrugated perforated drain pipe (perforations down). Generally both types of perforated pipe are bedded in gravel so that the pipe also acts to diffuse the water for absorption into the ground. Sometimes a nylon sock with gravel surrounding the pipe is used.
Not sure you need a clean out at that end, the debris will collect at the tank. If you insist on the clean out, I would lower it to ground level in an effort to hide the tee.
4:10 what about that bush and root intrusions?
We used solid corrugated as opposed to perforated corrugated so unless we have a hole or damage we shouldn't see any roots coming into the pipe.
Leeching field may work better since you are digging anyway. Six 6" pipes that have tiny cuts
Great video. I am about to tackle a downspout drainage project myself. I like the corrugated wye set up you did in this video and how you commented on corrugated pipe versus pvc. I liked your logic for the frost but do you experience any issues with water flow and debris getting caught in a corrugated pipe? Honestly I am not very familiar with pvc and all the necessary fittings and connectors. I would prefer to work with corrugated but have heard some bad stories about it getting clogged. Do you usually work with corrugated? Thanks
I did a drywell project at my house about 7 years ago. Initially I did it with corrugated and had to replace it all a couple years later when it got completely clogged. I replaced all the corrugated with smooth-wall HPDE pipe (from a big-box).
I live in the Pacific Northwest so our frost line is pretty high but I really can't see how the material type makes much difference from a heave perspective. HPDE is definitely more rigid than corrugated and I had to use elbows in a few places but I think the tradeoff (not getting plugged by pine needles) is worth it. I also dug a much bigger hole than Everyday did in his video, which might be why I've not had any issues with volume. My hole was 5' x 6', drywell in the middle, fabric between dirt and rocks. I also put a circle of fabric at the bottom of the drywell so I could open it every couple years and dump out the pile of pine needles that had accumulated without the rocks getting contaminated. It's worked well so far.
This is a guessing game. Do the math on how much water comes off the roof. Perform a percolation test on the soil. Calculate how large your pit needs to be during a worst case rainy season. I guarantee that small pit won't cover it.
Say that again. Lol
I was thinking the same thing when I saw that small pit. Why not just put a pump in the pit and discharge the water off the property through someone inch PVC.
@@robertaltman3801 that hole is dumb IMO. Have Installed thousands of feet of downspout drainage, for that application we would have just ran it to the street and installing a pop up at the end. There’s no need for that hole.
Adding some fill dirt around the foundation to create a positive slope would go a long way towards your problems
Agreed, thanks for the feedback 👍
It might help in his case. But I did that and didn't help because my house is located near drain storm and gets water from house as well as other neighbors. A French drain with corrugated pipes all the way to a perforated corrugated pipe with two small wells running to storm drain solved my problem.
Why landscaping fabric instead of the correct drainage fabric?
This is exactly what I was looking for. I needed a way to drain from the house...where my house didn't have much grade, and there was no other drainage system to pipe into - thanks.
Same here! The drainage age system I’m working with was an old gravel filled gravity drain but after 25 years the Notorious red clay from up here has made it’s home in the gravel bed so my original thought was the contractor that built this home never installed any drain, a flow test of the gutter nearest the flooding area had the test water bubbling up other side of the retainer wall under ground apparently the erosion pushed right over the exit pipe and Buried it many years ago. Client just put in a $35k drive way that cuts me off from the street drain and much like this site in the video the water will flow back and with the clay water just sits there so I’ve done the same except I also dug my French tench 35” deep and laid the material gravel and drain up high this doe two thing it gives me the ability to manipulate my grade since it’s flat and or running back to the house this also (and most importantly imo) gives me another “holding tank” for the water to fill since to 40 gal one does not seem sufficiently sized to me plus I believe it will give the water more Time to leach into the water table and or soil. I’m no expert we do fencing and handyman services but the client asked. Oh I also put a Chanel drain in the cement patio where it’s start the flooding. I hope this all was correct thought or suggestions anyone?
Would have really liked to see the finished product in action at the ending. Great video.
I would have transitioned from corrugated to pvc on the straight run
What kind of soil do you have here? The flo-well may work if the soil type allows good drainage but not for clay soil for sure.
That was my first thought. In my clay, I would have to dig a hole many times that size and fill with gravel.
in construction we called it a rock pile and dug them 6 feet long 3 to 4 feet wide, 4 ft deep filled them with gravel and ran the drain tile into the middle did it on swampy lots to run even drain tile in the yard to the pit depends on how much water you have to deal with
Are you in a warm climate? What happens when it freezes?
What if you have clay soil?
@Everyday Home Repairs - It is now about a year since the work shown in this video was done. How has the drainage system performed?
Working great. I wouldn’t change a thing and so far no issues.
In the winter, your pipe may slowly build up with layers of ice and eventually block up flow to the well. I had a similar problem this past winter (and spent 3 hours boiling water and de-icing until midnight). Any thoughts on how to winterize this drainage system?
really, made it through 1 winter and so far so good. Thanks for the feedback!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Oh, I was hoping you had figured out solution for this. Glad you didn’t have a hard winter to deal with!
In the northeast, does this system have to be below the frost line? That would be at least 36" at the starting point, then grade it down. Lots of digging. I'd love for this to go all the way to my curb.
@@brianeidmann5941 Not if you have enough pitch so there is no standing water in the line.
@@jimc3688 agree with Jim. I am in New York and I run smooth landscape grade (thinner) PVC they sell at Lowe’s. All but one of mine drain to daylight. I’ve never had a problem with ice backup. I have one that drains to a green pop up like in this video and it does fine as well: it has a small hole in its elbow that slowly drains into the soil. Even tho it drains really slowly it’s enough to drain after any rain before temps drop and free what is standing in it.
Btw mine are about 4” below soil surface.
Did you use a bottom panel on your system? It looks like you have to buy it separately. great video. Thank you.
Nope, I just set it on my white rock in the bottom. I wanted the bottom to be wide open to help drain down the dry well.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you, make sense.
How does the pop-up work how deep does the water have to be can a pop-up work with just straight off the hose the pipe I mean
Nice video without all the BS. Why not just use a pop up emitter and a 9x9 catch basin?
Honestly, I was curious on how the dry well would workout for this type of application. So far so good 👍
Former civil engineer here. That drywell at roughly 50 gallons (6.8 CF) capacity will only be able to hold about 40 SF of roof area assuming a 2" rainfall. That's obviously way less than the roof section you're trying to capture but your ultimate goal is to get the runoff water away from the foundation, so as long as the drywell has a way for the additional flow to escape, you're accomplishing your goal.
Edit: I'll add, I am in an area that has some stringent runoff capture and recharge requirements due to the impact excessive runoff has on bacteria levels in our local waterways. When I was doing site design work or reviews for local home development projects, you would typically see drywells on the order of 8' to 20' diameter at 10, 20 or more feet deep to properly capture runoff and contain it on the property.
Thanks Steve, yeah I wanted to keep some of the water on the lawn for the surrounding trees but you are right the overflow will start pretty quickly after a significant rain as the soil also does not have good percolation. Will be interested to monitor over the next few rains but I am confident the water should flow away from the house.
Your right on the money. Dry wells are usually a joke. They have to be so large that they are usually not a reasonable solution on a residential property. A well made and designed sump pump basin is they right way to go.
@@High-Flow-Drainage-Solutions
Pumping water is the last resort. Yes this will be overflowing but if the water runs away from the house....
@@u2mister17 If there is enough slope to drain the pipe with gravity, then correct: there is no reason to use a sump pump basin (and especially not a dry well since they are impractical or impossible in most situations to begin with). But in a situation where there isn't a desirable amount of slope available, a horizontal sump pump basin 4 feet or longer is the way to go.
That depends on the soil type. Flo-well's website has a calculator. If the soil itself is not good at drainage such as clay soil, then the flo-well system will not work.
Well, you’re Started anyway. This should be only part of a whole system. Where’s the rest? Sump pump should also be 15’ minimum from the house to a down slope. Same with the other downspouts. Is there a storm sewer system close by? Any code restrictions? Jim
18
look how neat your work is. plastic under soil, carefully removed patches of the lawn. wow. I wish my sprinkler contractors did the same. but instead half year later I still have hobbit trails across my yard 😀
Why not just run a pipe to the street? Why bother buying a bucket that will 100% fill up?
Not every town will let you put water in their streets.
Good to see there are so many legitimate solutions to poor drainage & ponding water problems. Had a friend that encountered this problem due to uphill neighbor unpermitted ill-concieved 'improvements' that ended up dumping the water in his backyard and flooding out the foundation. After being denied insurance claims & corrective measures from local code enforcement, he tried to sue neighbor, did not prevail in any MEANINGFUL way then spiraled out of control and took his own life. Sad situation. Needless to say it is/would be a better expenditure of resources to have built a drainage system than to WASTE all the time and money on attorneys and court costs, not to mention the enmity and endless harassment by city gubmint officials due to friendly connections & preferential relations to the uphill neighbor. Bottom line: drainage systems WORK, the legal system DOESN'T!!
Jesus Christ bro lol
What kind of drainage corrugate/pipe should I use to collect water along a path through the yard to ultimately empty to a storm drain conveniently located in the yard? I've seen different types with holes or slots and some wrapped with fabric and/or foam peanuts... I'm not sure which to use. Thanks
Can you discharge water onto the street?I notice a lot of people in my neighborhood run the pipe to the street
This is what I would like to do on my property too. My plan is to connect my sump pump to the downspouts and to create a French drain at the back of my lot. The one issue I am concerned about though are the pipes under the ground for gas, electric, etc. I had a utility company locate the utility lines a few years ago and it seemed like they were going to interfere with where I want to dig my trench for the corrugated pipe. Just curious, but did you rent a trench digger for this project?
Nope, good old fashion hard work 😅 for this one
RE:jeffthewhiff. Use caution connecting downspouts to sump pump.
th-cam.com/video/z9WysbvNDEs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/tvZXJUE9rt8/w-d-xo.html
You can use a trenching machine but just hand dig when you get close to utilities.
Then map out all the lines for future reference or for the next homeowner.
I probably would have just got a skid in there and re-graded the yard and done it properly but to each their own lol
Yeah, but I also want to make the majority of these projects approachable for the average DIYer. Your method would ideal and also help me get rid of the massive amount of weeds in my yard by starting fresh but might be a bit much for the average weekend warrior.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I guess it depends on your local market, but I can have a guy with a Skidsteer come grade a yard for $500 and I don't need to do anything but throw some seed back down and water it lol
2:32 show's his window well and decorative block foundation. If the foundation 'make up' would allow for raising the grade I think he'd have some serious waterproofing and new window well work to do.
How about an update to this system?
Sump pump system to day light go under the sidewalk inches away from the street away from the property for good I had the same problem at my house 🏡 called 4 drainage contractors it seem I knew more then them from a lot of research 🔬 on line n they wanted 10 grand⛈they all said the same thing after we get done u will need to hire a landscaper to rake it n seed it 🤦🏽♂️more money 💰 I decided to hire a few guy’s to dig the 100 trench I did the rest by my self All in with materials n laborers 4 thousand n u can’t tell any work was done at all 100 foot French drain a few catch basins n sump pump system to the street 🎯💯🤙🏽
Is that lower gutter and downspout large enough or does it overflow in heavy rain? You mentioned leaves. Do the gutters get loaded in the fall?
The horizontal drywells give more surface area to allow natural percolation. But you may need a small excavator to get it done efficiently. We use 4' x 12' here on Long Island NY but we have loan and sandy soils.
Looks like house could do with extra down spouts as well.
Do you ever worry the pipe will heave in Winter and not drop back in Summer, leaving a hump blocking flow?
I think when the big rain comes your going to fill up fast, we will see. Good luck
I think you are right but the pop up emitter will just flow the water into my lawn which shouldn’t be a big deal. We shall see 🤞
Better to fill up a ditch than the whole lawn become a marsh.
Nice Install .... pvc pipe
would fit this job also .. 👍
If its insulated or below the freeze zone.
You did not show what happened when it rained. All theory no Results.
Yeah, that would be a nice addition. Wish I could add additional content after upload. My sump pump is already starting to run less frequently and I still have 2 downspouts to extend so I am encouraged with the results thus far 👍
First check if the street is lower than the down spout, if it is lower then add soil around the foundation run two 6-inch side by side with a splitter that connects to a scheduled 40 directed to the road, may have go under OR place a drainage in the sidewalk with a plastic or stainless steel that you can step on as you walk or roll across the sidewalk the drainage that allows drainage to the street. On a heavy down pour one 6 inch drain pipe on gravity flow will NOT handle the water. You must reshape the front yard then re-seed the front yard. This will resolve this issue forever. One thing put a check valve at the end or one foot in from the end to prevent rodents from building a nest and wash out your line every spring.
Putting drainage stone up against the foundation isn't the best idea. That is one reason your sump is doing overtime. You want to keep the water away from the exterior walls as much as possible and that drainage stone is promoting the water down along the foundation wall.
why the dry well. Just keep going with the downspout extension to the sidewalk of street.
Guessing to maintain an acceptable slope, the discharge would be below street level?
@@jamesharper8373 Could be, but a sump pump is easier... except it does need a pump and electricity, both cost money and maintenance. Where I live we can have inches of rain in hours, as much as 3 inches total in hours (3 inches), with clay soil, a dry well would be overwhelmed.
A DRAIN FIELD would work if you have the land and willing to remove a lot of dirt, line it with geotextile fabric, lay perforated drain pipe, and cover with tons of gravel to lay drain field prop. I have a typical single family home lot. No room for drain field or dry well. I installed two sump pumps and pipe it out to the street through the curb. It works like a demon. They collect down spouts and French drains. I had flooding before. Now it is wonderful,. Even after a hard rain the ground drains and there is no standing water....
You mentioned your trench is well above the freeze line. Shouldn't it be below the freeze line, maybe 2-3 feet so it doesn't freeze?
Yes it should.
Weeping tile (corrugated pipe) won't really freeze.
I put a 4 inch pipe on my sump pump during winter in Canada and it's never frozen solid
@@evictioncarpentry2628 interesting....is the pipe above or below your frost line? If above, how far above? Have similar issues here upstate NY snowbelt with high water table. Fun.
That tape….
did it carry enough water away
So far so Good!
At this point you should of just continued a solid pipe to the road or as close as you could and have the water go out there and away from the property. Your setup seems like it will work for regular rains falls but anything major its likely not enough and seems like it was more work to do what you did then just continue it to the street IMO.
Exactly! Just continue the pipe to the road. Too much unnecessary work!
What do you plan to do for mosquitos?
The box says gravel free. I understand the gravel on outside but why put gravel on inside? Seems like it’s only going to reduce the volume of water it can hold.
My ground below the basin is thick clay that does not allow water to percolate/absorb into the ground below. Any suggestion?
If you are in a location that freezes, should there not be an air gap between the down spout and the drain pipe in case the drain pipe freezes the down spout can still empty rather than create a column of ice going all the way up to the gutters. I have also seen where they put a parallel grid so that any leaf litter or twigs that come down the down spout will be directed to the ground rather than allowed to enter the drain pipe.
This is really bad advice. Dry wells are worthless. You have to collect the immediate above ground water with catch basins and subsurface water with gravel perforated pipe. You must discharge the water to daylight and not to a dry well. If you have a downhill run, no problems, however if you do not you will need a sump pump to discharge the water to daylight.
Imagine you should have this kind of house in first place to do such things
Ps i live on street
Scott have you tried any coatings on the foundation walls to stop water from coming in?
Hey Jason, water isn’t coming through the wall into the basement. Instead there is a French drain along the outside parameter of the basement which drains any water through the drain pipe into a sump pump well which then gets pumped out. Just trying to dry the ground a bit outside the foundation wall to reduce the work the sump pump is doing. Should work but we shall see if a few months 🤞
Hi Jason, do you have any recommendations on coatings you would use?
Thanks!
tarp down , sod and dirt separated , impressive , simple prep made this job
Rocking up to random households and doing their yard work for FREE!
th-cam.com/video/M8QHaaKfmUw/w-d-xo.html
I'm in a similar situation as you with the sump pump and the downspouts that I need to do something similar. I have a lot of days where the sump pump runs throughout the month. I have some grade issues along with a need to get the water further away from our foundation. But does it need to be 30ft? I've seen suggestions of at least 20ft. I think some recycling of the water back to the pump could be good be a good thing for keeping the grass healthy without causing damage to the foundation.
I was in disagreement with you on your last video and the proximity of the sidewalk and wonder how quickly this basin it going to fill up?
When was the last time your sump pump was replaced? Replaced ours a couple of weeks ago after realizing it had been just over 10 years since I replaced the last one. Time flies.
I don't think it necessarily needs to be 30 ft. Since I was digging already I wanted to put it a little further out to make sure I could catch the slight slope I did have in the yard. Get ready for the workout 😉
That is a ridiculous "solution". In a heavy rain, that drywell, the trench and the pipe will fill up almost instantly rendering them ineffective. Thousands of gallons of water come down in a heavy rain. Your "system" holds about 100 gallons tops.
You are so wrong
This video gives me hope. Some big named companies want to do expensive encapsulation or their patented drain systems that are equivalent to a car note. Considering my home is old and has buried drain pipes (probably old and broken), I would much rather give this a try instead of spending thousands. Plus I have those annoying drain flies, which I'm sure are coming from the crawl space and water entering/backing up. 😬 Thanks for sharing this video.
geez, why are you not thinking about a rain garden instead of another soak away? This is your opportunity to fix your drainage and save the planet too.
Why not just continue the trench and pipe all the way to the street, get rid of the rainwater permanently? You're already halfway there 3:33.
Bigger sized outlets and down sprouts can be put on gutters so that they would drain better when on roofs that throw off a lot of water.