Thank you very much for confirming that the *05 series also have this issue. Just bought a SR-705 used. It still works, but produces a lot of heat in that area... I am very VERY happy to see they haven't used BGA chips. I know for sure that some other AVR brand had similar issues, but for them a BGA chip had brittle solder, which is much harder to repair reliably. I think I will just buy a Silent fan like a Noctua and wire it on. I have already used the Output for my subwoofer
This "helps" me a lot! I've bought a TX-sr578 yet, pre-owned at Ebay and of course, the hdmi-board was coocked! No signal! So now I have to replace the capacitors. After this is fixed, I need to get the hot air out of the device! I hope to find a fan who is slim enough for assembling inside the device! Nice video! Thank you! Greetings from Germany! ✌
No matter WHAT Receiver or Amp you have, ALWAYS put a 120mm fan on top to suck the hot air out... Just by touch find out which portion of the receiver gets the hottest and put the fan there. Problem solved and will prolong the life of your equipement.
I have the Integra 4.6 but the heat comes from central part and where the transformer is located and I’m planning of doing the same thing but it has a lot of space and the amplifier is sitting by itself my Xbox and router are located the other side of my tv desk so it has space to breath
Lol, that ribbon cable, the last owner must have been at his wits end to give up without checking again. I have an Integra DTR 7.7 receiver that suffered a similar failure both with the HDMI board and the video switching board that lives below it. The previous owner was a outdoor bar/bistro and they ran this unit hard every day since new before it had issues then shelved it. Mine didn't have issues with caps but the solder was all dry and cracked. This caused intermittent HDMI drop outs and audio drops using any other of the inputs. I re-flowed the hdmi board and video switching board and the issue went away. I was blown away how hot these units get. I'm looking at making a full low profile shroud that goes over the top so I can slot the unit into a hifi cabinet and have 2 fans on the back.
I have a bgears 12V 1500rpm 58.3cfm 27dba 120mm fan. Should I use a 9V plug in instead of a 6V plug in? It says it operates between 10.2V and 13.8 V... Also, if I have a 9V or 6V or 5.2 V plug in does it matter what the amperage rating is? My 6V plug is rated at 200ma and my 9V is 300ma.
Hi , I need help, I tried reducing the buzzing sound and I touched the green wire of the power supply with the screwdriver, it short circuited and there was smoke coming from the HDMI board. The capacitor marked ( 470 tp) is Burned at the bottom.
Hello Tiny Little Workshop. My receiver keeps turning off after 15 minutes. I have nothing connected to it except the wall outlet. Would u pls let me know what could be a possible culprit please?
Tiny Little Workshop Hi Bill, great idea and video, but honestly I gringed a little when you soldered on top of the Onkyo case. Those tiny solder balls could have dropped inside the receiver's case vents and I'm sure you're aware what damage that potentially could cause. I would suggest putting an aluminum foil sheet over the entire case while soldering in that close proximity of the component. Please take that as constructive criticism only. My technique was to cut-to-size, thick, double faced tape at each corner to attach the fan to the case. That provides not only a way to astetically secure the fan to the case, but also significantly dampens the fan vibration noise. I then used a black Sharpie marker to color the white edges of the tape to closely match the case color. I scored a great $3.99, 12vdc fan at Goodwill that was new in original packaging and rated at 22db. The best part though is that it has blue LED's around the fan case when powered on. Gives an awesome look to my audio stack. Thanks for sharing your video.
I've read that those cooling slots in the top cover are really good at channeling stray solder drips and blobs to only the most expensive / difficult to access components inside the case. 😅 Having a solid, cleared work area is always a good idea, because you never know when gravity or other forces will turn on you and ruin a perfectly good day.
I have fixed the fan on top of the cover with triangular cut foam tape.. It works as a holder and a vibration damper.... I have one doubt.. Fan air throw to inside or outside? Can anyone help..
Hey Bill, I have a Denon receiver and a 7.1 surround sound setup. the receiver just began overheating (I assume, feels hot) and the receiver is now frequently shutting off, it is in a shelving unit but it's always been there? Does it matter if I'm only driving the front left and front right speakers instead of all 8? (7 speakers plus subwoofer, independently powered). My wife accidentally changed a setting so it's only playing the two speakers I mentioned...or do you think either excess dust finally took it's toll after 15 years or perhaps a speaker wire is touching another and causing a short? Thanks my friend, Wyattspoppa
Good tip on keeping an amp' cool. I acquired an old laptop holder with cooling fans underneath. The holder was broken but the fans were fine (and very thin at about 10mm) so I salvaged those and attached them under the amp' unit I have instead of on top. The unit is not an Onkyo/Integra but a Yamaha so the internal layout is different. I do have an Onkyo so I'll do something similar to yours for that unit. Instead of zip ties and strips of packing foam, why not use double sided foam tape when attaching your fan? It would eliminate the need for those zip ties and the foam would act like vibration dampeners for the fan at the same time.
I got a 30.5 for very cheap.the owner didnt know what to do with it.i fixed it,placed a heatsink and a fan on one of the chips on the hdmi board and its been running for the past 7 years with no problems.it was an easy fix and i didnt even have to replace anything.
Good question. I'm not personally familiar with that particular model. You could try to see if you can find a service manual online for it and pore over the schematics looking for a power source. On the one I was working on in the video, there were two nicely labeled +12V leads going directly into the HDMI board itself. You might just try taking the cover off (with it unplugged of course) and looking around inside to see if there are any voltage labels near some of the ribbon connectors or other wires.
I have a DTR 8.8...didn't even know it had 2 fans already in it until I was going through the service manual (they're well hidden)....I still keep a fan on top just to be safe
I have the TX-NR757 and never have any of those problems! Bought it new in 2016 and have 7 KLH speakers attached which I have had for 20 years! The cabinet I have the receiver and other units in like a Samsung 4K Blu-ray get hot, but I just vented the back better to keep Temps down! I am still looking at an air circulation fan.
@marcusjosefsson4998 yeah ONKYO said on the phone that the built-in fan might have given up the ghost. I told him there should be an indicator on the unit to give a warning! I now have the Onkyo TX-NR6100 and I added a fan above it in my equipment cabinet which comes on when the receiver is turned on. More protection to last longer with all the heat generated in there!
Cool vid! Was just given an Onkyo TX-SR805 and it gets HOT! It works and isn’t fried...yet. Would love to do this to my receiver but there is only 2.75 inches between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the shelf above it. Is that enough room for a 1.75 inch fan? Thanks!
Hard to say from here. If you can somehow squeeze a thinner fan inside the housing, that might be better from a ventilation standpoint. I've had mine out in the open air (on top of the equipment rack, basically) ever since doing this fan modification. It has been in use every single day for many hours per day and is still going strong up 'till now. I actually just picked up another Onkyo HDMI receiver and pending testing I may just finally get to make the capacitor replacement video.
I think Ihave similar problem with my denon AVR-3312, the HDMI out to my TV will lose video signal after turning it on for a little while. If i put a USB fan at the back, the problem go away. The biggest issue is the noise........
How to tell air flow direction of any case fan: If you are looking at the sticker on the fan which details the voltage, amps, model number, and various symbols, that is the side that blows air. In other words, that side will cool you off on a hot day. It's also the side with the visible wires (as seen in video). On the other hand, the pull side of the fan is the open blade side where the label only shows the company name. All computer case fans are the same. It's basically the opposite of an ordinary house fan. Read "All you need to know about fans" (May 1996) Author: Mike Turner for all the fan knowledge you could possibly want.
Not stupid at all. I had to look it up and triple check to make sure I was doing it right during this project. The best orientation is to have the fan pulling air out of the equipment, instead of pushing air into the equipment.
Many of these computer fans have cheap sleeve bearings and cant be laid horizontally. They get loud really fast as the bearing gives out. Take a look at the AC Infinity AIRCOM receiver coolers or their MULTIFAN line if you are on a budget. They are temperature controlled and very quiet.
Good point about some of the fans not being able to stand horizontal mounting for an extended period. After the video was made the fan was switched to an even quieter 120mm unit that had originally been mounted horizontally in a computer case. It is still going strong 4 months in now with many daily hours of use and only an occasional dusting. If the budget and modus operandi had allowed, one of those dedicated receiver coolers would have been great to acquire. Unfortunately, the budget allocated was absolutely nothing, and most of those dedicated coolers cost more than was paid for the receiver itself.
The dust part is not the issue, as you cause negative pressure inside the case (blowing out scenario) the air as to get in the case, as the equipment hasn't got no air filter, dirty air will get in from other vents. The issue is if you do use positive pressure inside the case (blowing in scenario) you will dissipate the heat from the HDMI board but will spread that same heat you are trying to get out to the other components inside the equipment. That is why is preferable to blow out the air.
Label on amp this unit runs hot this is normal it said,so why cool,me i just keep mine clean,after eleven years use i needed to replace the capacitors.
The Special Service Program for loss of audio/network connection only applies to receivers made between 2009 and 2012. The Integra DTR-7.8 in this video was made in 2007.
Extract air (in other words suck it out). Remember hot air rises, so the heat from the boards is going to want to come up. Blowing air down on to the board will prevent hot air from escaping and will make the boards even hotter! You definitely want to suck the hot air upwards and outwards!!
The fan pulls air out. The way I understand it is that you don't want to blow air into the case, because that will cause dust to build up on the components inside.
@@TinyLittleWorkshop Yes. "All you need to know about fans" (1996, Mike Turner) confirms this. Additionally, you want positive pressure inside your cabinet (i.e. more air blowing in than air leaving) to keep dust out. Seems counterintuitive but his paper has the data to back it up. Google will pull it up for free.
Why not put a thin laptop cooler on top instead. They have two fans and work off of a 5 volt usb cube power supply. Unless the challeng is for scrapping a solution.
Adding a passive heatsink to the affected overheating components ( dts chip is always the issue here ) would have solved your issue. No fan required. DO NOT do what this guy did.
Thank you very much for confirming that the *05 series also have this issue. Just bought a SR-705 used. It still works, but produces a lot of heat in that area...
I am very VERY happy to see they haven't used BGA chips. I know for sure that some other AVR brand had similar issues, but for them a BGA chip had brittle solder, which is much harder to repair reliably.
I think I will just buy a Silent fan like a Noctua and wire it on. I have already used the Output for my subwoofer
Great. I had equipment on top of my Denon x6200 and could not believe how hot things were. I'm going to buy the AC Infinity AIRCOM T8.
I just bought a small USB fan for my 50.3 and it's done great.👍🏻
This "helps" me a lot! I've bought a TX-sr578 yet, pre-owned at Ebay and of course, the hdmi-board was coocked! No signal! So now I have to replace the capacitors. After this is fixed, I need to get the hot air out of the device! I hope to find a fan who is slim enough for assembling inside the device!
Nice video! Thank you! Greetings from Germany! ✌
No matter WHAT Receiver or Amp you have, ALWAYS put a 120mm fan on top to suck the hot air out... Just by touch find out which portion of the receiver gets the hottest and put the fan there. Problem solved and will prolong the life of your equipement.
hello sorry, if this change is not made, what do you face? Thank you
@@Tiger-dl1yn The Amp wont be cool and that can/will damage the components
@@TDNA Thanks
I have the Integra 4.6 but the heat comes from central part and where the transformer is located and I’m planning of doing the same thing but it has a lot of space and the amplifier is sitting by itself my Xbox and router are located the other side of my tv desk so it has space to breath
Lol, that ribbon cable, the last owner must have been at his wits end to give up without checking again.
I have an Integra DTR 7.7 receiver that suffered a similar failure both with the HDMI board and the video switching board that lives below it. The previous owner was a outdoor bar/bistro and they ran this unit hard every day since new before it had issues then shelved it. Mine didn't have issues with caps but the solder was all dry and cracked. This caused intermittent HDMI drop outs and audio drops using any other of the inputs. I re-flowed the hdmi board and video switching board and the issue went away. I was blown away how hot these units get. I'm looking at making a full low profile shroud that goes over the top so I can slot the unit into a hifi cabinet and have 2 fans on the back.
I have a bgears 12V 1500rpm 58.3cfm 27dba 120mm fan. Should I use a 9V plug in instead of a 6V plug in? It says it operates between 10.2V and 13.8 V... Also, if I have a 9V or 6V or 5.2 V plug in does it matter what the amperage rating is? My 6V plug is rated at 200ma and my 9V is 300ma.
wer do u connect the wires??
Sir tell how to repair no sound output from any channel Onkiyo TX SR313
Hi , I need help, I tried reducing the buzzing sound and I touched the green wire of the power supply with the screwdriver, it short circuited and there was smoke coming from the HDMI board.
The capacitor marked ( 470 tp) is Burned at the bottom.
Good video. Inspired me to build an own fan control to protects the components from overheating in the long term.
Hello Tiny Little Workshop. My receiver keeps turning off after 15 minutes. I have nothing connected to it except the wall outlet. Would u pls let me know what could be a possible culprit please?
I have a dtr80.2 with the same problem
Tiny Little Workshop Hi Bill, great idea and video, but honestly I gringed a little when you soldered on top of the Onkyo case. Those tiny solder balls could have dropped inside the receiver's case vents and I'm sure you're aware what damage that potentially could cause. I would suggest putting an aluminum foil sheet over the entire case while soldering in that close proximity of the component. Please take that as constructive criticism only. My technique was to cut-to-size, thick, double faced tape at each corner to attach the fan to the case. That provides not only a way to astetically secure the fan to the case, but also significantly dampens the fan vibration noise. I then used a black Sharpie marker to color the white edges of the tape to closely match the case color. I scored a great $3.99, 12vdc fan at Goodwill that was new in original packaging and rated at 22db. The best part though is that it has blue LED's around the fan case when powered on. Gives an awesome look to my audio stack. Thanks for sharing your video.
I've read that those cooling slots in the top cover are really good at channeling stray solder drips and blobs to only the most expensive / difficult to access components inside the case. 😅
Having a solid, cleared work area is always a good idea, because you never know when gravity or other forces will turn on you and ruin a perfectly good day.
LOL. Been there, done that too. Have a good day Bill.
I have fixed the fan on top of the cover with triangular cut foam tape.. It works as a holder and a vibration damper.... I have one doubt.. Fan air throw to inside or outside? Can anyone help..
Hey Bill,
I have a Denon receiver and a 7.1 surround sound setup. the receiver just began overheating (I assume, feels hot) and the receiver is now frequently shutting off, it is in a shelving unit but it's always been there? Does it matter if I'm only driving the front left and front right speakers instead of all 8? (7 speakers plus subwoofer, independently powered). My wife accidentally changed a setting so it's only playing the two speakers I mentioned...or do you think either excess dust finally took it's toll after 15 years or perhaps a speaker wire is touching another and causing a short?
Thanks my friend, Wyattspoppa
Good tip on keeping an amp' cool. I acquired an old laptop holder with cooling fans underneath. The holder was broken but the fans were fine (and very thin at about 10mm) so I salvaged those and attached them under the amp' unit I have instead of on top. The unit is not an Onkyo/Integra but a Yamaha so the internal layout is different. I do have an Onkyo so I'll do something similar to yours for that unit.
Instead of zip ties and strips of packing foam, why not use double sided foam tape when attaching your fan? It would eliminate the need for those zip ties and the foam would act like vibration dampeners for the fan at the same time.
Double sided tape will loosen over time zips won't
I got a 30.5 for very cheap.the owner didnt know what to do with it.i fixed it,placed a heatsink and a fan on one of the chips on the hdmi board and its been running for the past 7 years with no problems.it was an easy fix and i didnt even have to replace anything.
Installing a heathink will do just fine
Ive got a onkyo tx-sr507. It dosent have a power output in the back. Were can i find a 12v power source inside the reciver?
Good question. I'm not personally familiar with that particular model. You could try to see if you can find a service manual online for it and pore over the schematics looking for a power source. On the one I was working on in the video, there were two nicely labeled +12V leads going directly into the HDMI board itself. You might just try taking the cover off (with it unplugged of course) and looking around inside to see if there are any voltage labels near some of the ribbon connectors or other wires.
Get your multimeter and start probing around to find a 12volt supply.
I have a DTR 8.8...didn't even know it had 2 fans already in it until I was going through the service manual (they're well hidden)....I still keep a fan on top just to be safe
I have the TX-NR757 and never have any of those problems! Bought it new in 2016 and have 7 KLH speakers attached which I have had for 20 years! The cabinet I have the receiver and other units in like a Samsung 4K Blu-ray get hot, but I just vented the back better to keep Temps down!
I am still looking at an air circulation fan.
The 757 have a fan installed from factory. My TX-NR626 came with a factory installed fan too.
@marcusjosefsson4998 yeah ONKYO said on the phone that the built-in fan might have given up the ghost. I told him there should be an indicator on the unit to give a warning!
I now have the Onkyo TX-NR6100 and I added a fan above it in my equipment cabinet which comes on when the receiver is turned on. More protection to last longer with all the heat generated in there!
I usually get those usb powered laptop coolers, and put them on top of the surround amp. They work great and are about 15-25$
And a lot of amps have a usb plug in the back so super easy to wire the fan
Cool vid! Was just given an Onkyo TX-SR805 and it gets HOT! It works and isn’t fried...yet. Would love to do this to my receiver but there is only 2.75 inches between the top of the receiver and the bottom of the shelf above it. Is that enough room for a 1.75 inch fan? Thanks!
Hard to say from here. If you can somehow squeeze a thinner fan inside the housing, that might be better from a ventilation standpoint. I've had mine out in the open air (on top of the equipment rack, basically) ever since doing this fan modification. It has been in use every single day for many hours per day and is still going strong up 'till now. I actually just picked up another Onkyo HDMI receiver and pending testing I may just finally get to make the capacitor replacement video.
Tiny Little Workshop Thanks. Looking forward to future videos!
there are double fans built into the onkyo 805 stupid that they do not run all the time. they do not seem to start until you play very loud
I think Ihave similar problem with my denon AVR-3312, the HDMI out to my TV will lose video signal after turning it on for a little while. If i put a USB fan at the back, the problem go away. The biggest issue is the noise........
How to tell air flow direction of any case fan: If you are looking at the sticker on the fan which details the voltage, amps, model number, and various symbols, that is the side that blows air. In other words, that side will cool you off on a hot day. It's also the side with the visible wires (as seen in video). On the other hand, the pull side of the fan is the open blade side where the label only shows the company name. All computer case fans are the same. It's basically the opposite of an ordinary house fan. Read "All you need to know about fans" (May 1996) Author: Mike Turner for all the fan knowledge you could possibly want.
Fan blow in or out?
Stupid question... should the fan be pointing down or up? What do you think?
Not stupid at all. I had to look it up and triple check to make sure I was doing it right during this project. The best orientation is to have the fan pulling air out of the equipment, instead of pushing air into the equipment.
"Well, that took all the fun out of it. I was expecting to break out the multi-meter and check the polarity of the caps..." Show-off...haha
Many of these computer fans have cheap sleeve bearings and cant be laid horizontally. They get loud really fast as the bearing gives out. Take a look at the AC Infinity AIRCOM receiver coolers or their MULTIFAN line if you are on a budget. They are temperature controlled and very quiet.
Good point about some of the fans not being able to stand horizontal mounting for an extended period. After the video was made the fan was switched to an even quieter 120mm unit that had originally been mounted horizontally in a computer case. It is still going strong 4 months in now with many daily hours of use and only an occasional dusting. If the budget and modus operandi had allowed, one of those dedicated receiver coolers would have been great to acquire. Unfortunately, the budget allocated was absolutely nothing, and most of those dedicated coolers cost more than was paid for the receiver itself.
what about putting a heatsink to the dps and hdmi chips
That can certainly be done by itself with or without the addition of active cooling.
That’s what I did. Check out my vids
Or you can buy a laptop fan and set it on top like I did
exactly. so much more easy so much more beautiful. incl. leds, etc.
Wich way is better? Air flow to the inside from outside or air flow from inside to outside?
From what I've read, from inside to outside. That way you aren't constantly blowing dust into the equipment and having it build up inside the case.
Tiny Little Workshop that's make sense for sure :) thanks :)
The dust part is not the issue, as you cause negative pressure inside the case (blowing out scenario) the air as to get in the case, as the equipment hasn't got no air filter, dirty air will get in from other vents. The issue is if you do use positive pressure inside the case (blowing in scenario) you will dissipate the heat from the HDMI board but will spread that same heat you are trying to get out to the other components inside the equipment. That is why is preferable to blow out the air.
Label on amp this unit runs hot this is normal it said,so why cool,me i just keep mine clean,after eleven years use i needed to replace the capacitors.
they have a recall if you look online they ship in fix it and return it free
The Special Service Program for loss of audio/network connection only applies to receivers made between 2009 and 2012. The Integra DTR-7.8 in this video was made in 2007.
air enters or leaves the receiver?
Leaves the receiver.
which is the right thing enters or leaves?
position fan airflow to draw the heat Out of reciever and Blow it into room
Maybe a lame question. Do you extract air or push air in?
Extract air (in other words suck it out). Remember hot air rises, so the heat from the boards is going to want to come up. Blowing air down on to the board will prevent hot air from escaping and will make the boards even hotter! You definitely want to suck the hot air upwards and outwards!!
@@zs1dfr I got an Onkyo TX RZ820 and it has its own fan.
@Thorn in the side Yup, we're kind of special! I'm in South Africa - where are you??
Is air from fan blowing in or out?
The fan pulls air out. The way I understand it is that you don't want to blow air into the case, because that will cause dust to build up on the components inside.
@@TinyLittleWorkshop dust just comes in on the intake. It's a no win situation with dust.
@@TinyLittleWorkshop Yes. "All you need to know about fans" (1996, Mike Turner) confirms this. Additionally, you want positive pressure inside your cabinet (i.e. more air blowing in than air leaving) to keep dust out. Seems counterintuitive but his paper has the data to back it up. Google will pull it up for free.
@@casedizzy so whats the right thing air going inside the fan or going out?
@@myplaguesify OUT
Why not put a thin laptop cooler on top instead. They have two fans and work off of a 5 volt usb cube power supply. Unless the challeng is for scrapping a solution.
You know AC Infinity came out the same year. Would've saved alot of time.
Time I have. It is money that I am perpetually short on. This cost me basically nothing, money-wise.
@@TinyLittleWorkshop All good. Great video showing how to wire a fan in though.
There are thin fans you know.
Yes, but Bill is very, very cheap and there were no thin, quiet fans in his pile of discarded junk.
Lets cut the cover! Like a modfied V8!
I fixed my Onkyo heat problem by buying a Yamaha receiver.
Adding a passive heatsink to the affected overheating components ( dts chip is always the issue here ) would have solved your issue. No fan required. DO NOT do what this guy did.
Bad Quality soldering
Yawn!
Most times its the dts chip