GREAT VIDEO. After watching many Pierce installations it becomes abundantly clear that the bumpers basically have to be removed then the bed has to be moved back 1 inch. Fabricating the hinge to the frame and to the bed seems to be the biggest challenge to overcome then the rest is pretty straight forward . Then you can get creative installing the bumper after the job is complete.
I have now completed this install on my 1992 F350 crew cab dually. I ran the controller cables forward into the back of the glove compartment. The bed stopped about 4 inches from horizontal and I had to drill out an additional hole 1" forward of the holes used to fasten the clips to the underside of the bed. Moving the bed underside pin forward 1" solved the problem. I had to cut the hinge arms short by about 6", but I was able to mate a hole in the hinge arm with a threaded hole in the bed to secure the arms in place. I haven't tested it to 4,000 lbs yet, but it seems to be working smoothly. The hydraulic motor drains the battery fairly quickly (brand new battery), so have the engine running when you're moving the bed. All-in-all, a lot of installation work, but I now have a dump truck!
Thank you for the very descriptive video. I am just starting the process of installing one on my 1992 F350 crew cab dually. I don't have welding capability, so I'm just going to bolt this in place and later find a welder to weld the part in place. Your video really helped me with the placement of the rear brackets. I also am bolting a cross piece of 1/4" steel to hold the trailing end of the scissor lift. I also have dual tanks and will be looking at your solution for guidance. I wonder if I can just store the controller in the forward gas fill location and leave it connected all the time. Anyway, thankx again. I feel more confident proceeding after watching it three times :-)
Nice vid thanks. I'm doing a job on my 89k2500 now. I find the lack of direction in the directions annoying, I swear this kit I have is from harbor freight. I have to finish wiring, gas filler, those bed guides, bumper and plate lights, and thr reese hitch. Then my poly liner. Man this is a week long job for this old man. I think it will b worth it.
It is. Should be a factory option. My beefs- the fuel flier neck placement is either cut it shorter and raise the bed to refuel, or extend it to the wheel well using a homemade hanger. Get the power down model.I had to move my hydraulic pump inside on it's mount to get clearance from the body edge, Also I bent the body bottom edge for more clearance. I also used a bed mount bolt in the bed, cut the bolthead off, to keep the body from moving sideways. And the bar asross the frame under the sissors to keep the diff from hitting it. And made my bumber fron 2 inch square heavy tube. Had to move my reese hitch back an inch to clear, using 4 bolts instead of 6. Towed 2 cars on my trailer since then, all good. Yeah, custom instal but worth it. No one has ever asked about it at a gas station, or even looked twice at it when it's up for refuel. Buy it from pierce, not anywhere else, cheaper from them direct. 6/8/22
I noticed that you still have the red, plastic plug in the filler hole of the reservoir. This should be removed and discarded. In it's place take the vented plug from the front of the reservoir and install it in the filler hole. Also, there is a shipping plug where the return hose and the supply hoses go on the piston cylinder. Both should be removed and discarded. Pierce informed me this morning that they are redoing their install instructions, so hopefully, the install will be clearer and include these points.
I cut some of the ends of the bumper off to clear the bed when it was tilted but that may be due to some alignment issues from previous removal and reinstallation.
no . There is a guy on utube thunder road garage that put one a f 350 . He built a full frame for the bed. Really nice build the way he did it and he said you do not have to take the tail gate off to dump it
I use it regularly for hauling gravel and scrap metal..... I notice that if I don't open the breaker supplying power to the pump my battery slowly drains...but other than that its all good
Nice truck, I really love those older Fords, is it manual or automatic? Great video, too bad you didn't video the install. I'm in the process of building a dump trailer out of the back half of a 1997 dodge. I'm building it myself but I will have to buy the pump and cylinder. I am curious as to why you didn't attach the bumper to the hinges so it tilts with the bed.
GREAT VIDEO. After watching many Pierce installations it becomes abundantly clear that the bumpers basically have to be removed then the bed has to be moved back 1 inch. Fabricating the hinge to the frame and to the bed seems to be the biggest challenge to overcome then the rest is pretty straight forward . Then you can get creative installing the bumper after the job is complete.
I have now completed this install on my 1992 F350 crew cab dually. I ran the controller cables forward into the back of the glove compartment. The bed stopped about 4 inches from horizontal and I had to drill out an additional hole 1" forward of the holes used to fasten the clips to the underside of the bed. Moving the bed underside pin forward 1" solved the problem. I had to cut the hinge arms short by about 6", but I was able to mate a hole in the hinge arm with a threaded hole in the bed to secure the arms in place. I haven't tested it to 4,000 lbs yet, but it seems to be working smoothly. The hydraulic motor drains the battery fairly quickly (brand new battery), so have the engine running when you're moving the bed. All-in-all, a lot of installation work, but I now have a dump truck!
Thank you for the very descriptive video. I am just starting the process of installing one on my 1992 F350 crew cab dually. I don't have welding capability, so I'm just going to bolt this in place and later find a welder to weld the part in place. Your video really helped me with the placement of the rear brackets. I also am bolting a cross piece of 1/4" steel to hold the trailing end of the scissor lift. I also have dual tanks and will be looking at your solution for guidance. I wonder if I can just store the controller in the forward gas fill location and leave it connected all the time.
Anyway, thankx again. I feel more confident proceeding after watching it three times :-)
Nice work. I just added this to my 95 F250 and it was certainly a job !
Just order my kit for my 1992 f250 . Thank you for your video!!! Would love to see one with it loaded !!
I've got 23 yards of sand and gravel this summer, maybe I can nab a video.
Much appreciated!
Nice vid thanks. I'm doing a job on my 89k2500 now. I find the lack of direction in the directions annoying, I swear this kit I have is from harbor freight. I have to finish wiring, gas filler, those bed guides, bumper and plate lights, and thr reese hitch. Then my poly liner. Man this is a week long job for this old man. I think it will b worth it.
Was it worth it?
It is. Should be a factory option. My beefs- the fuel flier neck placement is either cut it shorter and raise the bed to refuel, or extend it to the wheel well using a homemade hanger. Get the power down model.I had to move my hydraulic pump inside on it's mount to get clearance from the body edge, Also I bent the body bottom edge for more clearance. I also used a bed mount bolt in the bed, cut the bolthead off, to keep the body from moving sideways. And the bar asross the frame under the sissors to keep the diff from hitting it. And made my bumber fron 2 inch square heavy tube. Had to move my reese hitch back an inch to clear, using 4 bolts instead of 6. Towed 2 cars on my trailer since then, all good. Yeah, custom instal but worth it. No one has ever asked about it at a gas station, or even looked twice at it when it's up for refuel. Buy it from pierce, not anywhere else, cheaper from them direct. 6/8/22
I noticed that you still have the red, plastic plug in the filler hole of the reservoir. This should be removed and discarded. In it's place take the vented plug from the front of the reservoir and install it in the filler hole. Also, there is a shipping plug where the return hose and the supply hoses go on the piston cylinder. Both should be removed and discarded. Pierce informed me this morning that they are redoing their install instructions, so hopefully, the install will be clearer and include these points.
do you have the part number for this kit?
How did you need to modify the bumper?
I cut some of the ends of the bumper off to clear the bed when it was tilted but that may be due to some alignment issues from previous removal and reinstallation.
Do you need to remove the tailgate all the time to dump?
If you want to fully lift the bed yes but you could do a partial dump with it
no . There is a guy on utube thunder road garage that put one a f 350 . He built a full frame for the bed. Really nice build the way he did it and he said you do not have to take the tail gate off to dump it
How is this kit holding up for you?
I use it regularly for hauling gravel and scrap metal..... I notice that if I don't open the breaker supplying power to the pump my battery slowly drains...but other than that its all good
@@Kevin-em4lk so maybe an inline kill switch
Nice truck, I really love those older Fords, is it manual or automatic? Great video, too bad you didn't video the install. I'm in the process of building a dump trailer out of the back half of a 1997 dodge. I'm building it myself but I will have to buy the pump and cylinder. I am curious as to why you didn't attach the bumper to the hinges so it tilts with the bed.
Looks good. Too bad there isn't a protective box for the pump which is electric. lotsa junk flies around down there when goin down the road.
Hi that sure is a neat hoist kit. I'd like to add that to a chevy or dodge someday.