Dana 30 tear down. In this video we will be removing the hubs, axle shafts, carrier, pinion, pinion seal and races from a Dana 30 HP front axle from a jeep Cherokee XJ.
Great video! I was doing ball joints and the shaft on the passenger side didn't want to go back in so I figured I'd tap it in with a hammer and see if the small chance of not damaging the seal prevailed which it didn't. My XJ was driven with a leak and therefore low fluid. There's definitely metal in the oil and on the magnet but it's okay as long as no damage was done past any of the serviceable parts (gears/bearings). With it being relatively low miles since the leak started and it not being a much worse picture so far, I doubt that it'll be that bad, which I'll inspect when I get the caps off. The video was great for helping me understand this differential. I decided when I was doing the ball joints and purchased the adapters for my press that I do not want to skimp out on special tools so I foresee utilizing loaner tools from the parts store
I just started watching the video and yeah that's so wrong (I'm not trolling). You have to use the proper equipment. That torque wrench may work but I wouldn't trust it anymore.
I see bldeagle10 already mentioned it, this being my 1st time visiting your page, but get yourself a nice breaker bar. I sure you have already have one but like so many of us sometimes you don't even notice that you were using the torque wrench. That being said I learned a hell of a lot from you and overall the video was awesome. Keep up the good work
@@Jdres123 Battery impact is the best.. in that case.. I just about killed myself when I broke a 1/2 breaker bar on that nut.. Went to 1" after that.. then I got an impact. Impact makes short work of it and great investment. Good luck, I hate doing anything in the cold. Also, sometimes I would put the spare on and put it back on the ground then break the nut. The wheel on the ground helps keep the hub in place and not torque the axle too much with the impact.. Just if you wanted to be extra careful.
+Wes Brash That's not necessarily the case. I tore apart the Dana 30 that I swapped out of my XJ for spare parts. It had never been torn down before and was just as easy. I think living in AZ and not having to deal with too much rust helps.
Well got to the part of hammering off my wheel bearing just to find it rust welded to both sides of the dust shield... Unfortunately it split in half b4 it let go... Guess I'm buying some new wheel hubs...
In specific, is this the Dana 30 front reverse rotation, or is it the Dana 30 front crush sleeve version? I'm going to assume it's the reverse rotation front Dana 30. I have researched both and can't find how to tell which is which. The front axle on mine has enough rust and paint, it's hard to pull manufacturing stamps and markings.
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. My front axle has a disconnected tube hanging off the hub similar to your tutorial (5:19). Can you tell me where the other end should be connected to? Thanks.
That's a vent for the differential, the tube needs to remain unconnected and be routed in a manner that keeps it away from moving parts. On my 98 V8 Grand Cherokee the hose routes up to the inner lower side of the air intake, there are little notches that grip/hold the hose in proper orientation.
@@Steven-zu1fx Not having any issues yet. Haven't started reassembly yet. Could do the job using the service manual, but wanted to see the second video first, reassembly, not so much how to do the job, but Metal shaper is so good telling me how to proceed, what to be careful of, what to look for out, torqes, etc. EVERYTHING that can save me problems later. In video 1, he says he will address many things in reassembly. Any other videos on this are horrible. Will not even bother with them. Will just attack this on my own with manuals
@@engin33r65 If you have any questions let me know, it's not too hard getting it back together. Just make sure if you're punching out races get those race punch sets. Make sure it goes in as even as you can get it and be careful of the walls where the bearing rides. I'd recommend putting the race inside of your freezer in a little baggie with oil. Will make life a lot easier. Good luck 👍
That depends on a few things. If you are going to be running anything larger than 35 in tires, I would go with something else. I stuck with a hp Dana 30 because I'm only running 35s, I can get parts really cheap( the whole axle was $50) and it matched the width of my rear axle.
I have a bone stock dana 30 on my 2013 JK, and I run 35" Duratracs. I was a little cautious at first, worried about breaking an axle shaft or u-joint, but over the years of mudding, sand dunes, trail rides, and even some low/medium intensity rock crawling, it has held up marvelously. I wouldn't say it is the best choice, but I WOULD say don't be discouraged from using one. I would recommend doing some strengthening to it if you plan to use it really hard (like axle tubes, chrome/molly shafts, C gussets, etc.). My rig is both my daily driver and weekend warrior, so I know not to push it to the extreme, but still have plenty of fun in it.
Actually lemme ask you some questions here... I want to put a Detroit Locker in the rear (D44A) and a Detroit TruTrac in the front. The axles are from a Laredo so are both open diff and have 3.73's. I'd prefer to go up to 4.56's. Is this possible? I'm running 32" tires so I'd like more gear.
Definitely. Just make sure the carrier is the correct size for the gear ratio that you want. I believe the dana 44 is 3.92 and numerically higher and the Dana 30 is 3.73 and numerically higher. The Detroits replace the stock carriers so just make sure they fit the axle model and gear ratio that you're going for and you should be all set.
I have a spartan lunch box locker and want to go back to open diff until I can get a cable locker. How hard is it to remove the spider gears once the carrier is out?
Bone Yard if you notice his doesn't have the vacuum actuator attached to the axle tube so he's most likely got a larger one piece axle I also had to find this out the hard way it only took me a day to realize passenger axle laying on the ground wasn't nearly long enough to reach the diff and there must be something else still left in the tube LOL
im going to have to remove my hub with my axle shafts connected. the axle nut and cotter pin are so rusted together. im going to have to buy new axle shaft assemblys
This one was not worth rebuilding, it had a bent axle tube. I do have a video showing a front axle swap and another one that shows installing a locker in a dana 30 that has a lot of details for assembly
Why do you sure to remove a Cotter pin use a pair of wire cutters to grab ahold of they I peace and use a prying motion careful not to squeeze too hard to cut it and it'll pull right out
I love how the carrier on all these videos just comes out so effortless!! Your full of crap! How about showing the real struggle 1st then fast fwd to it coming out easy. Instead they pause the recording or edit the video to make it so simple. 🙄
Thank ya so much for not cussin an swearin through the video an thank ya for the step by step walk through.
You're welcome!
fuck yeah
Great video! I was doing ball joints and the shaft on the passenger side didn't want to go back in so I figured I'd tap it in with a hammer and see if the small chance of not damaging the seal prevailed which it didn't. My XJ was driven with a leak and therefore low fluid. There's definitely metal in the oil and on the magnet but it's okay as long as no damage was done past any of the serviceable parts (gears/bearings). With it being relatively low miles since the leak started and it not being a much worse picture so far, I doubt that it'll be that bad, which I'll inspect when I get the caps off. The video was great for helping me understand this differential. I decided when I was doing the ball joints and purchased the adapters for my press that I do not want to skimp out on special tools so I foresee utilizing loaner tools from the parts store
Wouldn't suggest using a torque wrench to remove bolts. Throws the calibration off.
you're right. This one is already broken, so it has been relegated to breaker bar duty. I have another one for measuring torque
Admiral Off-Road perfect man. You in the west or east valley? I'm up in surprise. Manager at Autozone, if you need anything hit me up
I'm in Mesa and I'll let you know!
I just started watching the video and yeah that's so wrong (I'm not trolling). You have to use the proper equipment. That torque wrench may work but I wouldn't trust it anymore.
Nee Kniggit did you even read he above comment?
Thanks for posting. You made it look easy, but I expect it'll be hard when I try to do it. Safety boots are a good idea for stuff like this.
Thumbs up for a bit of brake cleaner turning into 1/4 the can. Can never use to much PB blaster or brake cleaner.
very true!
Nice work - I am working on an 04 Rubicon in Tucson. Thanks for the well edited tutorial & commentary - Great video!
You have Dana 44's
Good job, Smart Kid, I am impressed..!!!
Glad to see you took the whole axle of the jeep so now get the axle assembly up off the floor to a work bench so you don't kill your back (assembly) 🤣
Your video is good! Never use a torque wrench to remove bolts.
I see bldeagle10 already mentioned it, this being my 1st time visiting your page, but get yourself a nice breaker bar. I sure you have already have one but like so many of us sometimes you don't even notice that you were using the torque wrench. That being said I learned a hell of a lot from you and overall the video was awesome. Keep up the good work
thanks!
Nice! Do you have the corresponding rebuild video?
Thanks! Big help.
glad to hear it!
Also, you can just remove the hub with the axle attached and skip the 35 mm nut no biggie. :)
Thanks, I was looking to see if I could do this, i'm going to the pick n pull and it will be a mofo to get that nut off in the freezing cold.
@@Jdres123 Battery impact is the best.. in that case.. I just about killed myself when I broke a 1/2 breaker bar on that nut.. Went to 1" after that.. then I got an impact. Impact makes short work of it and great investment. Good luck, I hate doing anything in the cold. Also, sometimes I would put the spare on and put it back on the ground then break the nut. The wheel on the ground helps keep the hub in place and not torque the axle too much with the impact.. Just if you wanted to be extra careful.
Thanks you. Enjoyed your vid!
Steel punch + hammer = need safety glasses, ALWAYS !
good show !
Thank you!
“Click over here” - nothing to click on, lol
Something else the bearing can become fused to the rotter.if his happens you will need a press to remove the hub from the rotor
Thank you
Nice easy video !
Thanks!
If you're working on a Dana 30 front axle that has not been disassembled before, it won't be this easy.
+Wes Brash That's not necessarily the case. I tore apart the Dana 30 that I swapped out of my XJ for spare parts. It had never been torn down before and was just as easy. I think living in AZ and not having to deal with too much rust helps.
Rebuilt one in a 1995 ZJ that had the original... 180k miles. It actually wasn't that bad. Perhaps yours was just extra beaten or something
Good explanation... I would like to know if the jeep grand Cherokee laredo 1999 has the same diagram. Thank you.
The 99 Grand Cherokee has a Dana 30 as well so it would be very similar
I'm in Mesa too.. I'm about to do a D30 and D44 build for my WJ (in a few weeks, maybe a month or so). I may have to ping you to pick your brain. :)
Sounds good!
Not sure why you took the time to find the hammer. You had one in your hand already 😓. Good break down and good filming bro. Thank you.
Nice video. Did you not remove or replace the axle seals?
Well got to the part of hammering off my wheel bearing just to find it rust welded to both sides of the dust shield... Unfortunately it split in half b4 it let go... Guess I'm buying some new wheel hubs...
Did you get that axle from Matt at bleepin jeep, it has the same punch marks he puts on his bearing caps for reference.
Привет. Я думал между подшипниками хвостовика будет распорная втулка, а оказалось регулировочные шайбы...
Are you rebuilding this for your Jeep? Nice tutorial.
Admiral Off-Road Can't wait to see the rebuild video!
I need your help I have a problem removing the intermediate shaft from a dana 30 axle on a 88 yj wrangler. what can I try
What about the spider gears
Is this the same axle on the 2000 4.7 limited? Are you going to do a rebuild video?
In specific, is this the Dana 30 front reverse rotation, or is it the Dana 30 front crush sleeve version? I'm going to assume it's the reverse rotation front Dana 30. I have researched both and can't find how to tell which is which. The front axle on mine has enough rust and paint, it's hard to pull manufacturing stamps and markings.
Thanks for the awesome tutorial. My front axle has a disconnected tube hanging off the hub similar to your tutorial (5:19). Can you tell me where the other end should be connected to? Thanks.
That's a vent for the differential, the tube needs to remain unconnected and be routed in a manner that keeps it away from moving parts. On my 98 V8 Grand Cherokee the hose routes up to the inner lower side of the air intake, there are little notches that grip/hold the hose in proper orientation.
Run the opposite end of your diff vent to up under your hood somewhere thats safe from moving parts and any liquids
Rip to your torque wrench
I can find many vidios on the Dana 30 tear down, none on reassembly. Do you have one?
Just do the reverse of what you did. Are you having issues getting it all back together?
@@Steven-zu1fx Not having any issues yet. Haven't started reassembly yet. Could do the job using the service manual, but wanted to see the second video first, reassembly, not so much how to do the job, but Metal shaper is so good telling me how to proceed, what to be careful of, what to look for out, torqes, etc. EVERYTHING that can save me problems later. In video 1, he says he will address many things in reassembly. Any other videos on this are horrible. Will not even bother with them. Will just attack this on my own with manuals
@@engin33r65 If you have any questions let me know, it's not too hard getting it back together. Just make sure if you're punching out races get those race punch sets. Make sure it goes in as even as you can get it and be careful of the walls where the bearing rides. I'd recommend putting the race inside of your freezer in a little baggie with oil. Will make life a lot easier. Good luck 👍
I love how the hubs came off so easily ,mine did NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Is dana 30 the best choise for off road ? Is it strong enough?
That depends on a few things. If you are going to be running anything larger than 35 in tires, I would go with something else. I stuck with a hp Dana 30 because I'm only running 35s, I can get parts really cheap( the whole axle was $50) and it matched the width of my rear axle.
I have a bone stock dana 30 on my 2013 JK, and I run 35" Duratracs. I was a little cautious at first, worried about breaking an axle shaft or u-joint, but over the years of mudding, sand dunes, trail rides, and even some low/medium intensity rock crawling, it has held up marvelously. I wouldn't say it is the best choice, but I WOULD say don't be discouraged from using one. I would recommend doing some strengthening to it if you plan to use it really hard (like axle tubes, chrome/molly shafts, C gussets, etc.). My rig is both my daily driver and weekend warrior, so I know not to push it to the extreme, but still have plenty of fun in it.
your carrier fell right out! too easy...mine takes prying :(
you need a Volvo G80 buck locker best in the world.
Would this be the same differential as a 2003 ford explorer front diff? (Dana super)
I believe that the dana super was a Dana 30 differential but with independent front suspension instead of a solid axle.
Can this be done while the housing is still attached to the vehicle?
Yes but much easier if its not
Is this the same one on a 2000 wj 4.7?
You must not like that torque wrench. Not meant for loosening....
Actually lemme ask you some questions here... I want to put a Detroit Locker in the rear (D44A) and a Detroit TruTrac in the front. The axles are from a Laredo so are both open diff and have 3.73's. I'd prefer to go up to 4.56's. Is this possible? I'm running 32" tires so I'd like more gear.
Definitely. Just make sure the carrier is the correct size for the gear ratio that you want. I believe the dana 44 is 3.92 and numerically higher and the Dana 30 is 3.73 and numerically higher. The Detroits replace the stock carriers so just make sure they fit the axle model and gear ratio that you're going for and you should be all set.
I have a spartan lunch box locker and want to go back to open diff until I can get a cable locker. How hard is it to remove the spider gears once the carrier is out?
should be pretty easy. Are you having problems with your Spartan?
Does the ring gear have to come off to pull out roll pin that holds the cross pin shaft into the carrier
You can remove the roll pin with the ring gear in place but you must remove the ring gear to remove the cross shaft
you forgot the inner axle seals.
Bone Yard if you notice his doesn't have the vacuum actuator attached to the axle tube so he's most likely got a larger one piece axle I also had to find this out the hard way it only took me a day to realize passenger axle laying on the ground wasn't nearly long enough to reach the diff and there must be something else still left in the tube LOL
I clicked over here and nothing happened
im going to have to remove my hub with my axle shafts connected. the axle nut and cotter pin are so rusted together. im going to have to buy new axle shaft assemblys
That's one of the nice thing about Arizona. Not a lot of rust to deal with
Rebuild video bro?
You used a torque wrench and a damn breaker bar🤦♂️
Bro tell me you have the rebuild video!!!!!!!
This one was not worth rebuilding, it had a bent axle tube. I do have a video showing a front axle swap and another one that shows installing a locker in a dana 30 that has a lot of details for assembly
@@AdmiralOffRoad link please!
th-cam.com/video/h75JZO9pZgg/w-d-xo.html
Why do you sure to remove a Cotter pin use a pair of wire cutters to grab ahold of they I peace and use a prying motion careful not to squeeze too hard to cut it and it'll pull right out
I love how the carrier on all these videos just comes out so effortless!! Your full of crap! How about showing the real struggle 1st then fast fwd to it coming out easy. Instead they pause the recording or edit the video to make it so simple. 🙄
Hi Rob it really didn't give me much trouble coming out. Sorry yours fought you so hard
Lol no doubt taking bolts out with a torque wrench. An on the end of the shaft it's called splines not threads. Kids these days
He said in a comment that the torque wrench was toast anyways and he uses another one.