Great job guys! My Rinnai has been awesome the last 9 years it’s great you are installing them now instead of that other brand…. If the house is spread out the recirculation line might be a good idea. For my house I have hot water within 30 seconds at all faucets from a cold start and I’m good with that so I didn’t feel it was necessary.
Great work as usual. Just a couple of notes: If the circuit for all devices in this room is GFCI protected at the panel - then disregard. Otherwise, the receptacle for the Rinnai should be gfci protected. Personally I'd do that and put a cover on the box to further protect water from hitting the outlet. 2nd, not liking exposed electrical, I'd put the transformer on the ceiling in a box to also protect for potential shorting.
I was wondering what your total BTU load is of all the gas appliances ? I didn’t know the NEC code allowed for an ungrounded outlet to a gas water heater with electrical components . I’m pretty sure Rinnai requires a grounded outlet .
Great looking install. Got a couple questions! What type of cement was that you used to put around the pipe? Is there a trick to help know exactly where the hole needs to be drilled for the vent pipe out the wall? And also what did you use to find your pitch angle?
The hot and cold lines. That way the system can produce a higher volume of water at a set temperature. So long as the unit is set higher than the mixing valve
Nice job Daniel and Peter. Just curious about one thing. Why did you leave, or rather, install the 4" box with a double gang plate for outlet/switch, and not put a switch in. I understand that you have a plug to connect the unit to power, which you could have put a single outlet plate on a 4" box. Better yet, you could have added the switch to control the outlet and avoid pulling the plug to shut off the unit. (We all know how most people pull out plugs... by the wire...) At the very least, adding a switch (and not connecting it to anything) would look much better, as opposed to a hole in the Mulberrry. And please don't take this as criticism. You appear to do excellent work. Aside from mechanical, your work is clean and neat, (good sign of a tech who cares about their work). The whole job was impeccable. My eye was drawn to the empty space in the cover plate where something should be and is not. Cool vid, can't wait for the next one. Peace my Friend.
That box has a ground. It's through the conduit. As long as you connected your green wire to the box you are good, and grounded ( couldn't see in the video )
There is no conduit run to this box, it is old threaded wire with a Romex style clamp. Idk where you people are getting this ground idea from. There’s no metal that makes it from the panel to the box.
@@DCHVAC Calm down Bro... Grounding is very important. It looks like the wire you're talking about was run through EMT. That in itself would be a grounding point, if it went back to the load center. But regardless, you could have ran a pig tail from the junction box to a grounding strap on the water pipe by the box. Nice job though.
The vent and intake went out the side wall but there is a specific way to do it. The Bosch boiler vents up the chimney but the intake is through the side wall.
I would think ungrounded is a bigger issue............... especially since there is a spare outlet below it that homeowner can plug anything into. but non a/gfci on top of that sounds pretty dangerous to me
Every other video installing Rinnai claims you absolutely need a ground for the electrical. Have you had any issues with this particular unit because of the missing ground?
@@patrickheraty1262 everyone says you need a ground. Ground goes right back to neutral in the panel. 99.999% of equipment will run perfectly fine that way.
robn2314 , I agree, the Rinnai is the best tankless water heater on the market (i’m not a fan of their isolation valves , they tend to start locking up after a year or two if they’re not exercised . Web-Stone are the best isolating valves. ). Drilling from both directions definitely reduces the blowout but Daniel is correct the dust is a killer . Y’all need to invest in an electronic hole spotter , we’ve been using them for almost a decade at the gas utility here in STL , a must ,if you want to pinpoint your hole down to a nat ‘s ass.
Just suggesting there has to be a better way. Maybe cutting from the inside for the last few inches and using a shop vac next to the core bit to catch the dust. You asked for advice, criticism, and feedback. Is this suggestion going to be erased too?@@DCHVAC
Totally off topic; If you watch Mikey Pipes videos… when he’s off camera talking, he sounds exactly like George Costanza (Jason Alexander) from Seinfeld. Totally uncanny.
Your right nostrils is bigger then your left. Lol. 😆. Good job. I know that you're going to be a good service tech, and install. I used to be a installer and a service tech until I had a stroke.
How much did that t&p cost? The parts? Is that he only pipe allowed on discharge valve? We are allowed cpvc on relief lines In Arizona. Not to many boilers out here. Probably installed 1 munchkin about 15 yrs ago for radiant floor heat. Good videos without the political commentary of old Sarasota plumbers
The T&P and other components come included with the unit I explained that early on in the video. The discharge (drip leg) needs to be a non ferrous metal
The Dream Team at work
Nice to see Peter working with Daniel
Awesome 👍👍👍👍
Great job guys! My Rinnai has been awesome the last 9 years it’s great you are installing them now instead of that other brand…. If the house is spread out the recirculation line might be a good idea. For my house I have hot water within 30 seconds at all faucets from a cold start and I’m good with that so I didn’t feel it was necessary.
Nice work Daniel. I think I would’ve ran the water lines along the wall and jumped over to the boiler to keep everything tight.
Must’ve got a new box of sky hooks
I thought about it but there’s no need to really ever get back there and the expansion tank was already in the way
Would’ve required a lot more unnecessary fittings
Fantastic job - Danny and Peter!
Keep up the great work! RickBlot
Thanks for that!
Great work as usual. Just a couple of notes: If the circuit for all devices in this room is GFCI protected at the panel - then disregard. Otherwise, the receptacle for the Rinnai should be gfci protected. Personally I'd do that and put a cover on the box to further protect water from hitting the outlet. 2nd, not liking exposed electrical, I'd put the transformer on the ceiling in a box to also protect for potential shorting.
Wondering the name of that brand that had all the leaky heat exchangers ..... ha ha. Good to see Peter out in the field again once in awhile
Killing it with the uploads man. I don't work in plumbing anymore but I love watching your vidoes, takes me back to my service call days
I told u about them Rinnai Daniel a year ago . I’m happy for you 🎉
Sweet, clean installation by the brothers 👍👍. Excellent job Daniel!
Thanks! 👍
Awesome job gentleman
Great job. My only addition would be to insulate the Hot water lines.
Great as usual! Keep up the great work!
Peter is more hands on when mike isn’t around lol
Great job
Looks good 💯
Very Nice.
Nice install. I'm wondering if there was 120 volts from hot to grounding conductor or hot to the box? If not a GFCI outlet is required.
You could have bonded a ground to the conduit on your ceiling box, with a jumper to the cold water copper, as long as it went back to the street.
I was wondering what your total BTU load is of all the gas appliances ? I didn’t know the NEC code allowed for an ungrounded outlet to a gas water heater with electrical components . I’m pretty sure Rinnai requires a grounded outlet .
Great looking install. Got a couple questions!
What type of cement was that you used to put around the pipe?
Is there a trick to help know exactly where the hole needs to be drilled for the vent pipe out the wall?
And also what did you use to find your pitch angle?
great looking job men. { not boys}.
would be nice to see the outside work
What was the mixing valve connected to?
The hot and cold lines. That way the system can produce a higher volume of water at a set temperature. So long as the unit is set higher than the mixing valve
Nice job. Just not sure what that mixing valve is doing for you. You can just set temp at the Rinnai. Really like the Rinnai.
A mixing valve gives you more hot water volume
Nice job Daniel and Peter. Just curious about one thing. Why did you leave, or rather, install the 4" box with a double gang plate for outlet/switch, and not put a switch in. I understand that you have a plug to connect the unit to power, which you could have put a single outlet plate on a 4" box. Better yet, you could have added the switch to control the outlet and avoid pulling the plug to shut off the unit. (We all know how most people pull out plugs... by the wire...) At the very least, adding a switch (and not connecting it to anything) would look much better, as opposed to a hole in the Mulberrry. And please don't take this as criticism. You appear to do excellent work. Aside from mechanical, your work is clean and neat, (good sign of a tech who cares about their work). The whole job was impeccable. My eye was drawn to the empty space in the cover plate where something should be and is not.
Cool vid, can't wait for the next one.
Peace my Friend.
well worded sir.
Hey mind me asking, what happened for the domestic side of that boiler to fail?
And how much was that Milwaukee hammer drill lol
Mike provided the rotatory hammer drill so idk. But the domestic side had a few issues, one being a blockage in the braze plate heat exchanger
That box has a ground. It's through the conduit. As long as you connected your green wire to the box you are good, and grounded ( couldn't see in the video )
There is no conduit run to this box, it is old threaded wire with a Romex style clamp. Idk where you people are getting this ground idea from. There’s no metal that makes it from the panel to the box.
@@DCHVAC All good. Hard to see all the details on the video!
@@DCHVAC Calm down Bro... Grounding is very important. It looks like the wire you're talking about was run through EMT. That in itself would be a grounding point, if it went back to the load center. But regardless, you could have ran a pig tail from the junction box to a grounding strap on the water pipe by the box. Nice job though.
@@briarberrycove5218 providing an available outlet to the homeowner without any active grounding seems like a fail to me......
Hey Daniel. Were those venting into the chimney or was that an outside wall? Installing a rinnai here soon trying to figure out how I’m gonna vent it
The vent and intake went out the side wall but there is a specific way to do it.
The Bosch boiler vents up the chimney but the intake is through the side wall.
Just curious.what is the advantage from gas over to Electric water heater? We have more electric water heaters in my area?
Gas heats faster. Electric gets expensive without solar.
Electricity is stupid expensive in the Northeast. Highest in the lower 48.
Looks good. I’m surprised the inspector doesn’t bust your chops about not have it a gfci receptacle
I would think ungrounded is a bigger issue............... especially since there is a spare outlet below it that homeowner can plug anything into. but non a/gfci on top of that sounds pretty dangerous to me
Every other video installing Rinnai claims you absolutely need a ground for the electrical. Have you had any issues with this particular unit because of the missing ground?
@@patrickheraty1262 none
@@patrickheraty1262 everyone says you need a ground. Ground goes right back to neutral in the panel. 99.999% of equipment will run perfectly fine that way.
Grounding is only a safety measure with 120v
Great job Guys! How long did it take, start to finish?
3 hours
Hi Daniel, does code not require a thermal expansion tank?
No only for closed loops with a backflow preventer
How old is the bosch unit?
I don’t know I haven’t serviced the Bosch I was there to install the water heater.
70 thumbs up
Rinnai is a great choice. Peter should have hammer drilled the holes from both inside and out instead of straight through.
If you hammer from inside you fill the place with dust. It’s better to hammer from outside
If you can't drill a hole without spalling the concrete there's always furnace cement @@DCHVAC
robn2314 , I agree, the Rinnai is the best tankless water heater on the market (i’m not a fan of their isolation valves , they tend to start locking up after a year or two if they’re not exercised . Web-Stone are the best isolating valves. ).
Drilling from both directions definitely reduces the blowout but Daniel is correct the dust is a killer . Y’all need to invest in an electronic hole spotter , we’ve been using them for almost a decade at the gas utility here in STL , a must ,if you want to pinpoint your hole down to a nat ‘s ass.
Just suggesting there has to be a better way. Maybe cutting from the inside for the last few inches and using a shop vac next to the core bit to catch the dust. You asked for advice, criticism, and feedback. Is this suggestion going to be erased too?@@DCHVAC
@@RGNHomeSolutions ?
#1🎉😂😂
I woulda ran my copper water lines close to the wall and then break out to my tie in. But otherwise good job- Karen
Good Job Daniel and Peter. TGIF Keep up the good work and stay safe out there. Hit the like button and please Subscribe. Make the trades great again.
Totally off topic;
If you watch Mikey Pipes videos… when he’s off camera talking, he sounds exactly like George Costanza (Jason Alexander) from Seinfeld.
Totally uncanny.
Never watched that show.
@@DCHVAC few years old but if ya google and watch one or two, I think ya might agree.
Just thought it was weird.
@@briarberrycove5218 nah not interested in watching it
That’s cool.
Your suppose to prime the trap yourself.
I didn’t realize that but. It’ll prime on its own after a few cycles.
Your right nostrils is bigger then your left. Lol. 😆. Good job. I know that you're going to be a good service tech, and install. I used to be a installer and a service tech until I had a stroke.
I am already a service tech and installer.
@@DCHVAC I know.
EMT pipe is your ground
No it’s not it’s supposed to have a dedicated ground wire.
No ground! No bueno!
How much did that t&p cost? The parts? Is that he only pipe allowed on discharge valve? We are allowed cpvc on relief lines
In Arizona. Not to many boilers out here. Probably installed 1 munchkin about 15 yrs ago for radiant floor heat. Good videos without the political commentary of old Sarasota plumbers
The T&P and other components come included with the unit I explained that early on in the video. The discharge (drip leg) needs to be a non ferrous metal
Terrible looking install. Should of ran them water lines on wall not middle of space
Thanks for watching!
unsubbed for lip smacking
Thanks! Now I won’t have to read all your stupid comments!!!