Toyota 3.4 Liter 5VZ-FE Engine Replacement (Part 2 - Engine Tear Down)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ย. 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS AND THE COMMENT WE PINNED*
This video is Part 2 or a 4 part video series showing you how to swap out the 3.4 liter V6 motor out of your 3rd Gen 4runner, 1st Gen Tacoma, Older Tundra or T100. In Part 1, we walked you through the steps of removing the old motor. In this part, Part 2, we're going to show you how to strip down the old motor of the parts you’ll need to swap over to the new motor. In Part 3, we're going to show you how to install all the necessary old parts and some new parts onto the new motor. In Part 4, we're going to show you how to install the new engine.
The vehicle we performed this job on is a 1997 4runner. If you have one of the earlier model 3rd Gen 4runners or earlier model 1st Gen Tacomas, T100, or older Tundra, your engine and engine compartment will pretty much look identical to the one we're working on. If you have one of the newer model 3rd Gen 4runners 2001 and 2002, or one of the newer 1st Gen Tacomas 2001 - 2005, you will notice slight differences. One is the throttle body design was changed and you will only have one cable attached to it, the throttle cable. The Evap canister on the 01 and 02 4runners isn't in the engine compartment, it's under the vehicle near the spare tire. Another difference you might see is in regards to the heater hoses. Rey's rig has the rear heater option but your rig might not have it. So, if you have the rear heater option, your heater hose routing will look identical. If you don't have a rear heater, you will notice less hoses to deal with.
There’s different ways to go about doing this job. We decided to follow the Toyota Factory Service Manual’s suggestion of 1st removing the transmission and transfer case out of the way. Some people decide to keep the transmission and transfer case bolted to the frame cross member. We thought it would be easier to mate up the transmission to the engine using a transmission jack as opposed to trying to mate up the engine to the transmission with the engine suspended on an engine hoist. We don’t show the necessary steps to pull the trans and transfer case because we already show that in two different video series, our Automatic Transmission Replacement Series and our Clutch Replacement Series (If you have a manual transmission). These series will give you all the information you need to either pull the transmission and transfer case out of the way like we did, or give you the information you need to know on how to separate the engine from the transmission if you’re going to keep the transmission and transfer case in place on the frame. Here’s links to those video series:
Auto Trans Replacement • Toyota 4Runner Auto Tr...
Clutch Replacement • Clutch Replacement (Pa...
*Rebuilt Engine supplied by Yota1 Performance*
209yota1.com/
info@209yota1.com
(209) 869-6821
2641 Patterson Road, Riverbank, CA 95367
**Yota1 Performance is offering a 5% discount to Timmy the Toolman fans. Use Discount Code:
"timmythetoolman" - all lower case with no spaces just like you see it.
*TOOLS USED*
In a comment we pinned (1st comment listed in video), we provide a comprehensive list of all the tools we used while performing this job.
*PARTS LIST*
In this Google Doc, we provide a comprehensive list of the parts we replaced while performing this job. You won’t necessarily need to replace all the parts that we did but we wanted you to have the part numbers in case you wanted to replace some of them.
docs.google.co...
*TORQUE VALUES*
In this Google Doc, we provide you with a comprehensive list of all the torque values. docs.google.co...
**TOOLS USED**
*If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.*
www.amazon.com/shop/timmythetoolman?isPublicView=true
*Harbor Freight 2 Ton Foldable Shop Crane (Engine Hoist)*
www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69514.html
*Harbor Freight 2000 LB Capacity Foldable Engine Stand*
www.harborfreight.com/2000-lbs-capacity-foldable-engine-stand-69522.html
*6 Ton Jack Stands* amzn.to/2MM91w6
*Stubby 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet* amzn.to/2upFKNN
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet* Set amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet* amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*1/4” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/2QIU7te
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set* amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set* amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Deep Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/330QjGh
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set* amzn.to/35dKQwW
*1/4” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2O9nl2x
*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2OehCao
*1/2” Drive Regular Extension Set* amzn.to/2XoLaGL
*1/2” Drive Impact Swivel* amzn.to/2Kv2dBE
*Oil Drain Pan* amzn.to/2QK6kh9
*18 Quart Food Storage Container* amzn.to/2Bm3q9X
*Small Pick Tool Set* amzn.to/2MyN4AH
*Hose Remover Set* amzn.to/34aKF5z
*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers* amzn.to/2VYUro8
*Straight Needle Nose Pliers* amzn.to/2pQ6yIa
*Knipex Small Diagonal Cutters* amzn.to/3egmkkL
*Utility Blade* amzn.to/2JmZQjO
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set* amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*Flex Head Flare Nut Wrench Set* amzn.to/32GoIdy
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set* amzn.to/31x8BOo
*Long Set of Ratcheting Box End Wrenches* amzn.to/2oOhndL
*Long Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding longer tools like ratchets and wrenches)* amzn.to/2m89y0D
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*Small Size Magnetic Parts/Tool Tray (Good for holding lug nuts or smaller fasteners/parts)* amzn.to/2m6kQ5y
*Milwaukee M12 3/8” Cordless Ratchet* amzn.to/2utRZsE
*Milwaukee M12 3/8 Cordless Extended Reach Ratchet* amzn.to/3kOsUS6
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)* amzn.to/2uoQlZs
*Milwaukee M12 High Capacity Battery* amzn.to/2HEFTpu
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger* amzn.to/2uo2o9x
*Mayhew 5 Piece Prybar Set* amzn.to/2Ob8THw
*Plastic Fastener Removal Tool* amzn.to/2Y7qrYk
*Kroil Penetrant* amzn.to/35SuHxr
*Butane Torch* amzn.to/2L0IeuR
*Mapp Gas* amzn.to/34nVnG8
*Thread Restorer Kit* amzn.to/33HdFRo
*Brake Cleaner* amzn.to/2KuJ6Yw
*Small Wire Brush* amzn.to/34GVnB5
*Brass Brush Set* amzn.to/2ZDt2dQ
*Emery Cloth Roll* amzn.to/38axDYh
*Dewalt 1/2" Drive Impact Gun* amzn.to/2M2Y9J1
*Dewalt Batteries* amzn.to/2urcx59
*Dewalt Battery Charger* amzn.to/2Ud8RlY
*1/2" Drive Deep Metric Impact Socket Set* amzn.to/2WfSTGD
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set* amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*OTC 4518 Puller Set* amzn.to/2J68BOT
*26mm Crowsfoot Wrench (for oil pressure sensor)* amzn.to/3echUvj
*26mm Deep Impact Socket (option for oil pressure sensor)* amzn.to/3oMmzZy
*27mm Crowsfoot Wrench (for knock sensors)* amzn.to/3eiw7Xp
*27mm Deep Impact Socket (might work for knock sensors or maybe an oil pressure sensor)* amzn.to/34KBUSB
*Large Metric Wrench Set (used for oil pressure sensor and knock sensors)* amzn.to/2TCXLmY
*Plastic Mallet* amzn.to/2CCOqVP
*Engine Oil Filter Wrench* amzn.to/2pK7Ftl
*Metric Allen Head Socket Set* amzn.to/348B8vL
*Adjustable Spark Plug Wire Puller* amzn.to/2MKWrMw
*CDI 1/2" Drive 30-250 Foot Pound Torque Wrench* amzn.to/2UPhyjK
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*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench* amzn.to/2J8W8Kz
*Toyota FIPG **#00295**-00103 - (For Engine Applications)* amzn.to/2QrNVFO
*Crowfoot Wrench Set* amzn.to/362U9Bo
*5/8” Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Sockets w/ Extension Set* amzn.to/2HRUmQx
*Schley Products SP 64400 Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool* amzn.to/2SttYjf
*3/4” Split Wire Loom* amzn.to/34N4uCV
*External Torx Socket Set* amzn.to/2RgdpGi
*242 Loctite* amzn.to/2puKrHn
*Inspection Mirror with LED Lights* amzn.to/35bAmOU
*Lisle Spill-Free Funnel* amzn.to/2SnrPFV
*4 Quart Measuring Cup* amzn.to/2Gq4a0W
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Can't wait for the next video! great camera work and video!
Hey Minh, we'll probably have it live by the end of the week.
Incredible amount of work, lot of parts to manage brother Tim- great detail!!
It was an incredible amount of work. With filming, it was 4 very long and tiring days but we got it done. Thanks for the comment Brother Jake.
I blew a piston rod on my 4Runner engine and I’m doing a motor swap by myself with no prior mechanical knowledge other than doing an oil change. I got the engine out last week and I’m waiting on the new one to be shipped. This video is going to be so helpful for me getting the rest of the job done. Thank you so much for this upload!!
You're welcome. I hope the rest of your swap goes smooth.
Same here at 162k miles. Any chance you got a jdm motor?
I’m into mine almost $3k already for all the stuff that’s needed for a jdm and the parts I can’t reuse. I.e. the $144 oil pan!
@@ryand8639 Non JDM 3.4, I got a 2wd sr5 so I’m trying to budget lol. That’s sounds badass though man!!!
Nice disassembly video Brother nice work
Thanks Antonio.
My trusty old 95 1/2 Taco "Ol Blue" has 187k on her and still runs like new. At 68 with undocumented mileage I feel she will outlast me. The thought of having to replace the engine myself I do not find appealing. I rebuilt, replaced and beefed up most everything on the drive line and some of the suspension last year and that was rough on me. Having no lift to do a number of this is a challenge as some of you well know. If the engine should blow I would have my local shop replace it knowing the labor cost would be expensive. One of the downsides to retirement is if you live on a fixed income and you are now old and getting worn out you just don't have the drive and flexibility to do things of this nature and magnitude any longer, not to mention the hit you finances take. Great video's as always Timmy, you have helped a lot of people over the years including me and I Thank You for your time, energy and effort. ROCK ON!
Thanks for the comment Brad. Good to hear our videos have helped you out. Getting out in the garage turning wrenches will keep you young. Happy Wrenching!
Awsome series, best youtube mechanic channel by far, do you have a mountain bike repair channel? Aha
Thanks Luk. We appreciate the compliment. No mountain bike repair videos. There's some good videos out there that I've found for bicycles so I doubt I'll try to compete in that arena. I used a couple good ones to service my Fox shocks. I've been working on bicycles for 35 years though. I know a fair amount.
@@TimmyTheToolman nice just brought my first dual suspension bike fuel ex 8
@@lukeneave Enjoy it. I started mountain biking when there wasn't suspension or disk brakes. You really had to know how to pick a good line or you would eat shit. Now with nice dual suspension bikes with disk brakes, they will get you out of trouble a lot of the times. It's much easier to get into the sport now compared to 35 years ago.
If you were needing to replace your rear main seal and possibly you oil pan gasket too, would you pull the engine to fix any oil leak and clean the oil mess up or you you remove the transmission?
If it was the oil pan leaking and the rear main seal leaking, I'd probably pull the engine. If it were just the rear main seal, I'd pull the transmission. Before doing any work, I'd make damn sure I knew what was leaking in the first place. Valve covers leaking can mimic other leaks. It would suck to do that level of work if it wasn't required.
@@TimmyTheToolman agreed. I’ve already replaced the valve cover gaskets so I’m sure it is one of those two
@@sawyerbeals5105 Well, I'd clean everything up the best you can to narrow down the source of the leak. If it's just the oil pan, you could remove the front differential and leave the engine installed. We have two videos to help you remove the front diff. I'd watch both.
Theres just so much crap on these youd think it could take you to mars
Maybe only to the moon and back.
@@TimmyTheToolman how far is that?
@@efil4kizum 238,000 miles one way.
Thanks for the videos!
You're welcome tim.
Excellent video Timmy Thank you very much and greetings from Costa Rica
Thanks my Costa Rican Brother. We're glad you like it. Thanks for the comment and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
1st time viewer of this episode... hunting for clues!! 22:46 searching for hoses... 24:20 25:18 this hose part# 12262-62050
You won't find a better series than ours on this topic. There's a wealth of knowledge in this 7-part series.
The AC bolts are the same size to use to pull the pulley😉
Not sure what you're talking about. What pulley?
@@TimmyTheToolman sorry i wasn’t specific i meant the crank, when you install your special tool and you use 2 bolts. The bolts that holds the AC compressor can also be utilized to slide the crank pulley out
@@3rdgenbestgen21 Gotcha. M8 x 1.25.
Really great video with a lot of information.
We're glad you like it Paul. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
I did this opposite a little easier in my opinion.. take hood off to get outta the way start taking air box, throttle body, upper and lower intake, fuel rail as well as peel all the wiring back as you go and then unbolt all accessories hoses and anything in the way of removing and easy access then tranny bolts and motor mounts and then pop her out. Then pop on accessories to new motor and then pop her in and bolt her back up in reverse order
Different strokes for different folks. As they say, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Is your way easier? I don't know. Tell you what, go through the exhaustive process we did video documenting this entire job, post it on TH-cam, and then come back and share the link. I'll take a look at it and decide if your way is better.
Good video timmy
Thanks Antonio.
Oh that new motor going to be nice
It's a well built and beautiful engine. Rey is enjoying it.
@@TimmyTheToolman thats awesome to hear was that new engine bored over or anything like that
Mis respetos
Would a universal pulley holder work for the harmonic balancer? Also, what size bolts did you use to mount it to the stand?
I don't know if a universal pulley holder would work. I also can't remember what size and length bolts were used. We shot this video years ago. I know I have a bag of bolts somewhere in my garage.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks. I'll do more research into it.
fhanks jimmy good work.
You're welcome Rodolfo.
Great job 🔥
Thanks bro!
Great job. I did engine swap tundra 4.7 salvage replacement was lucky to find a great replacement motor from a knowledgeable recycling yard in Washington State to VA. 1500.00 shipped. Two years out running great. One of many operations in 19 year old truck. In my 70th year now still love working on vehicles. Thank you Tim for the best videoz
Turning wrenches is keep you young Carl. I plan on turning wrenches into my 70's, if I make it that long. I'm 58 now.
...outstanding video Tim.....if I ever need to replace my motor in my 3rd gen 4Runners, this will be my "go-to" DIY.....keep 'em coming.. :)
Thanks Ken. Glad you like the video. We will keep them coming!
Tim, do you recommend replacing the factory crank pulley/harmonic balancer with and after market pulley? I recently purchased a set of pulleys from URD which are much lighter but now I'm worried about causing vibration if I use their crank pulley
I would not use an aftermarket harmonic balancer. Stick with OEM.
@@TimmyTheToolman do you think it will cause vibration not having the OEM? this is for the 4runner I bought the magnuson supercharger for... also I bought the Doug Thorley headers and URD 7th injector kit. Have you had any experience with either of those? I'm in Hayward, can you recommend a good shop to do the install and tune? Thx
@@jeremysmith3465 I'm not familiar with URD harmonic balancer. This seems to me something you might not want to mess with because the weight of the crank pulley is probably part of the equation to keep the crankshaft balanced. There is a good thread on T4R.org for information regarding superchargers. This is where I would ask this question because there's a lot of knowledgeable guys on there that contribute and something will know if it's a good idea to run that URD Harmonic Balancer. Here's a link to that thread: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/146022-3-4l-trd-supercharger-thread.html
The headers are a big job. You can't get that crossover pipe out without either removing the engine or the transmission. So, unless you want to spend a ton of money at a shop for a mod with questionable benefits, I'd forego paying to get the headers installed and sell them to someone else.
The 7th Injector Kit from what I know is not that hard to install and a worthwhile addition to your supercharger so this is one I'd give my stamp of approval for.
I do not know of a shop in the Hayward area but we've recently partnered up with Yota1 Performance that's in the town of Riverbank near Modesto. We used their engine for our recent motor replacement series. I would trust them to work on my rig but I don't know if they do the kind of work you're looking for. You could give them a call and ask. Nick is the owner and is a great guy. Here's their info:
209yota1.com/
info@209yota1.com
(209) 869-6821
2641 Patterson Road, Riverbank, CA 95367
@@TimmyTheToolman thx f0r the feedback Timmy, I did watch your engine swap vid, so I am familiar with Yota1. Let me ask you this...would it be easier to but a dressed long block from yota1 and just build it on the stand so I can use the headers which I already paid for? I don't mean to turn a deaf ear to your advice. Its just that I've already spent close to $5,500 and its non refundable. So I'm really stuck. I was told by Doug Thorley that the cross over pipe slips out by lifting the engine off the mounts. It seems do-able. Im in way over my head on this project😒
@@jeremysmith3465 Well, it's not just simply disconnecting the engine motor mounts to get that crossover pipe out. You would also need to separate the engine from the transmission. So, you would have to do everything we did in Part 1 of our Engine Replacement series so you can lift the engine out enough for you to sneak that crossover pipe out and then set the engine back in. That's at least the way I see it. If you watched Part 1 and Part 2, you can see how big and bulky that crossover pipe is.
In regards to whether or not to buy an engine from Yota1, that would depend on how many miles you have on your engine. If your engine doesn't have a ton of miles on it, you probably have a lot of life yet. Doing the engine replacement using a rebuilt engine is a fair amount of work as you will see if you watch all 4 Parts of the Engine Replacement series. So, to get those headers in is a fair amount of labor and a lot of the same labor to do an engine replacement. If my engine had a lot of miles on it, and I had the money to invest in a rebuilt engine, I'd probably buy a rebuilt engine from Yota1 and go for it. If my engine had fairly low miles, I'd probably just pull the motor or the trans to gain access to the crossover pipe and not replace the engine. Hate to say it, but Doug Thorley blew some serious smoke up your you know what making it sound like the header installation is a piece of cake.
G'day mate do you know much about these engines knocking? Got one that sounds like rod knock but a lot of peaople have same problems that can be knock sensor harness creating a knock, or flex plate
Check out this video: th-cam.com/video/9Gpdq-tL79U/w-d-xo.html It's not a super common thing that can happen to these motors but the thrust bearings on the crankshaft can fail and cause gross play with the crankshaft causing a very noticeable engine knock. A knock sensor wouldn't cause an audible knock but they will signal a misfire CEL if there's a significant engine knock. Flex plates don't really make a knock when they are cracked but they do make a sort of ticking or slight screeching sound because the crack is allowing the metal to move causing a metallic sort of ticking, scraping or screeching sound.
So nice having the right tools. At a minimum - If you don't have a 1/2" 14mm socket with a long handle attached get one. Some of these bolts are ugga dugga tight
Yep, you're learning the importance of mechanical advantage. The longer the lever, the higher the force you can apply.
I cant believe the knock sensor harness cost over 400buck, no wonder why guys are trying to reused them.
The knock sensor wiring harness is around $40. I think you meant the cost of both knock sensors and the harness run around $400. It's one of the things that you can roll the dice on to try to save money. If you do all your own work, maybe you take a chance that the sensors won't fail. If they do, you're going to have to do a whole lot of labor to get back in there. If you're going to have to pay someone to do a knock sensor replacement for you, this will be a situation that you wish you went ahead and had the sensors replaced while the engine was already torn down. At the very least, the harness should be replaced because the electrical plug clips break off and you're risking the connectors disconnecting using the old harness.
Posição dos cabos das velas
www.toyota-4runner.org/1144333-post3.html
Anybody have a part number for the studs that screw into the exhaust manifolds and hold the heat shields on? Nuts for those too?
Contact Yota1 Performance They might sell them. Their contact information is in the video description.
How is the timing of the cam shafts
I don't follow what you're asking? The timing of Rey's old engine was fine if that's what you're asking.
Or the third part of the video
@@hugovega6244 Hugo, I don't know what "Ronization" means. Is this even a word? Maybe we're having a language barrier issue. Check out our Timing Belt video series and hopefully that will answer your question. Just search, "Timing Belt" on our channel and you'll find the videos.
First...? Nahhh
Hey Timmy!
You're the winner Drew.
@@TimmyTheToolman Haha :)
Also, not sure if you knew this but you can remove the intake plenum with the throttle body still bolted on, and there really isn’t a reason to remove the throttle body except for easier access to the coolant lines. It is my humble opinion that it is easier this way. Hope this helps you in the future!
-Drew
@@drewshepard8002 I kept the throttle body connected to the upper plenum the first time I did a valve cover gasket job on this engine, so yeah, I know this is possible. But, you're forgetting two reasons why it's good to separate the throttle body from the plenum. #1, if you want to do a thorough cleaning of the throttle body, you'll need to separate it from the plenum. #2, it's not a bad idea to renew the throttle body gasket when doing a job like this. #3, you mentioned another big one and that's having an easier time getting to the coolant lines. It's a bit cumbersome to flip over the throttle body with the plenum attached to access those coolant lines. Nobody should try to access those coolant lines with the throttle body in the upright position. It's way easier to pull it off and flip it over to remove those lines. So, there's 3 reasons for why someone would separate the throttle body from the plenum. So Drew, in my humble opinion, I'm not going to necessarily agree with you here. But you know what they say, to each his own and there's always more than one way to get a job done.
@@TimmyTheToolman As always, thanks for the reply! All of those reasons make a lot of sense to me, and I’m starting to think that my throttle body gasket may need to be changed!! Thanks Timmy :)
This video helped me out alot in my motor replacement
Great to hear Gerald. We knew this video series would help.out a lot of people over time. As these rigs get older, more people are going to find themselves faced with an engine swap and they can reference our videos to make the process easier. Thanks for the comment.
Awesome Video! Thanks again guys. you guys are killin' it! My motor was even filthier than this. Ended up buying a parts washer from harbor freight and cleaned up what I could (intake manifold+++). A problem I had in disassembling things were that some of the connectors were pretty brittle. I ended up breaking tabs off my knox sensors and my heater matrix/diverter just came apart when disconnecting hoses.. the knox sensors were the big bummer.. I bought a new harness, but it's broke at the sensor side also :( I put some FIPG along the connector as a stop gap solution..... Any thoughts? them things are a bit pricey.
Thanks. Glad you like the video. We had the same experience with the knock sensor wiring harness connectors being very brittle. Both the release tabs broke when I disconnected them. It's for this reason why Yota1 Performance recommends people buy a replacement knock sensor harness. They also recommend replacing the knock sensors because it would be a bummer to have to go all the way back in there to replace them if one of them fails. They are a bit pricey but I believe it's money well spent because it's a fair amount of labor to go back in there to replace them. I like the idea of a parts washer. I think I might buy one. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the advice. I knew it in my heart to be true. Knox sensors ordered.
@@J-Bae You're welcome. Smart move to replace them.
I have a 1995 T100 and a replacement engine from a 2001 4 runner 3.4 v6, are the engines the same?
They are essentially the same. In 2001, Toyota changed the throttle body to a "Drive by Wire" with a "Drive by Cable" back-up. It's a sort of hybrid throttle body. But, the main components of the engine are essentially the same. So. you would want to use your original throttle body because your wiring harness won't have the same plugs as the 2001 harness has.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Tim, I’m gonna swap over the throttle body from the truck then. These videos are pure gold and thank you for uploading them.
@@donkeybizle You're very welcome. Glad you're finding these videos helpful. Good luck with the swap. Hope it goes smooth for you.
So doing an engine swap is basically plug and play?
Yes it is provided you have all the parts you need. You're swapping a 3.4 for a 3.4 so nothing custom is needed.
@@TimmyTheToolman A few months ago I took my 4runner to a shop, after discovering an over heating issue. I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, fan, and a few belts. It ran great for a few months…
Then out of nowhere I start to overheat at idle again, so I turn the heat on and head home. Later that week white smoke starts to come out of the exhaust and the 4runner. My guess is a leaking head gasket or cracked head. But I really don’t know where to start or where I should go from here.
Should I repair the issue, or resort to some of the other options (sell it, or engine swap)? I am willing to a swap, once I get the money. My truck is my daily, currently.
@@camronramsey4861 I suggest you do a compression check followed by a leak down test of any low cylinders. Here's a couple videos you can use:
th-cam.com/video/ky7bndfFpO0/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/w-d-xo.html
If you love the truck, keep it and fix it. If you're indifferent to the truck, maybe sell it and get something else. But, here's one way to look at it. This is a truck you know about. If you put the money into fixing it up, it's still a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a new vehicle and having payments. If you buy another used vehicle, it's a crap shoot you get a good one or a bad one someone is trying to pawn off. If might just be a head gasket issue which can be fixed. It's mostly labor. If you're willing to the work, it's a cheap fix. Even if you need a new head, that's affordable compared to buying another new or used vehicle. We unfortunately don't have a head gasket video out yet.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you
That engine defenitly had a oil leak lol
You ain't kidding Antonio. It was a filthy mess to work on for sure.
So, why did the guy need a new motor?
He engine blew a spark plug out of one of the heads that he was able to fix with a helicoil but he lost faith in it's dependability. Rey and his buddy Joe do a lot of hunting out in the backwoods in Arizona and his 4runner is going to be his hunting rig. So, he wanted to have confidence in his rig being able to get him in and out safely to the areas he's hunting and decided to go ahead and swap out the motor.
@@TimmyTheToolman It almost seems easier to replace one of the heads from a used motor, a lot of time in the garage for this one. What are your thoughts???
@@jackgavin3990 Well, a used head going on a used engine would be more affordable but what is the longevity of the motor after all that labor? It could last a very long time, and then again, maybe it doesn't. I guess it all depends what your plans are for the rig. If you know you're going to keep it forever, a motor swap would seem worth it. If you're uncertain how long you want to keep it, spending the money on a rebuilt motor might not be the right decision because you probably won't get all you money out of it if you sell it.