That is exactly why I enjoy watching every episode Scotty not just a camera down look what we did channel. That part has remained since the old garage days 🤙🏼
This is exactly why I like Carnage - for Scotty's honesty. I've used to watch all kinds of car building shows on tv, and later, on the internet, as kid, but when I grew up, and bought a car, I've realized that they all have edited out various blunders or how parts aren't fitting, or how bolts are rust-welded and etc. etc.
Covid schmovid really enjoying this channel can't wait to see your Dad's ute ...send it I'm sure he'll be watching where ever he is . Good on ya mate 🤙🤙🤙
Never done an engine without an expert looking over my shoulder. Your tips are well explained. I love it when you're giving us the 'don't do this because....' it's just as valuable as what to do👍
I'm a qualified mechanic rather than a self appointed TH-cam mechanic (Richmond Tech Melbourne 1986, apprenticeship Merc-Benz dealership). I'm also a Mopar nut. My first car was a 318 and I have had 2x 383s and a 440 all in 2 dr coupes and I know something of Mopar V8s. On a couple of 80s Rangie classics, I recently installed two identical upgraded camshafts (with new valve springs) in Range Rover 3.5 V8s. One was my own vehicle (in mine the heads had to come off for unrelated reasons so I decided to replace the camshaft, springs, retainers and timing set at that time, the other Rangie the heads didn't have to come off. The results on mine were so impressive, (the thing had this sub 1000rpm torque and still revved cleanly to 5900rpm - Not bad!) my mate wanted this exact cam and spring upgrade for his Rangie too. I think you know where this is going. So for mine, having some mechanical experience I decided to take the liberty of getting a timing set with adjustable advance and retard and based on my degrees being off a bit, then for the other camshaft install. After degreeing my camshaft, I found it was retarded 3deg. I set it as close to the cam card specs as possible with the timing set I had. I think the best was +.5deg adv. A few months later I installed the second camshaft and after degreeing (and rechecking again just to make sure), I found it was 100% perfect out of the box in the 0/0 posi - that is two camshafts and spring and retainer kits with same part number, two timing sets with same part number in two Range Rover 3.5 V8s. How does it happen? Stack up of manufacturing tolerances, that's how! These tolerances may or may not be the camshaft grinder, they may be the crankshaft/camshaft keyway, the crankshaft journal grinding, block casting, rod length tolerances, other machining tolerances so on and so forth. So what do you get for doing it? Well a broad spread of power across all RPM ranges in street type camshafts (and some other unimportant crap like valve-piston clearance with high lift long[er] duration cams when combined with higher comp engines and larger valves revving over a stock 4600rpm). In some ways Edelbrock/Isky are guilty because I checked out their camshaft installation guides and they promote the join the dots method. I get why and it's to absolve the company of liability as there's less to stuff up in the install on a stock engine. I bet it doesn't apply to engines with higher comp. If a cam manufacturer says join the dots and you get bent valves because at high RPM you slightly over rev it and the springs oscillate (likely on hydraulic camshafts) and the valves clip the pistons because you upped the comp to 10.5:1 from 9.2 or 8.6ish, I can practically guarantee camshaft grinders aren't going to help you out since we're here and they're in the US and they couldn't care less. They'll say, "Did you degree the camshaft after checking the piston to valve clearances?", or something stupid. Your attitude, re expert TH-cam commenters is fine but just don't go getting too smart by hammering commenters on this issue because you're promoting your opinion as fact. If you don't buy a single manufacturers head/cam/timing/piston set well then what? The Dalai Lama once said, "Trust in your fellow man but lock your car." Camshaft degreeing is locking your car isn't it? I remember join the dots was a colouring book from my kindergarten era. I never could find that pesky # '13'...
Not promoting my opinion as fact, just saying that the majority of street engines don't need it. If I was building a 10/10ths racing engine it would be different.
"Welcome to the bashing portion of our show". I laughed so hard I nearly fainted Scotty. So so funny because it represents at least one portion of everyone's car build....
Just did a ls1 with aftermarket parts and had the same problem just about everything had to be modified to fit, not so bolt on these days Scotty.. Been really enjoying the series on dad's ute, glad you show the problems so people get to see what goes into fitting these things. Love the show 👌
Hey Scotty, time to shop locally. allmost on the other side of dandy/frankston RD is dandy bolts and they stayed open for click and collect right through lockdown. Cheers
Great video Scotty. Always seems to be something. Like my old man used to say, there's no such thing as a five minute or simple job. Keep up the good work and the content rolling. Really enjoying this series.
Scotty: If you put the bolt in the chuck of the drill press and clamp the drill bit in the vice - the bit self centres and works like a ghetto lathe for simple jobs like that. Works a treat.
You're right Scotty, I would rather see your mistakes, and how you correct them, rather than a gloss over, short story. Anybody who assembles anything on a car knows that sometimes things don't fit. How you deal with that is where the clever stuff is. LOL. Oh and btw, the hammer is always a clever way to deal with it. LOL. Love your work.
Another great video when you are building engines sometimes you must make on the go corrections this is what makes it such fun there is nothing like a good adjustment with a persuader
On Carnage this week "Scott's engine building Reality" with the Dad's ute build. Made to fit after you modify it 😂 seems pretty common place with automotive parts. Referring to Billy Bobs Garage 😜 Kits that fit or don't makes me think of the Mighty Car crew too. Good job Scott keep pushing forward with it. Persistence, persuasion and a hammer are all required 😎👍
And from this day forth, along the lines of "Doing a Bradbury" Any bolt on part that requires more than one modification to fit shall be know as "Requires a Scotty" :)
the Pickups will have to be Milodon with Milodon oil pans. I used Moar peformance windage tray with Moroso Deep pan , and no intereferences. ran for years that way with 1968 -70 L.A. 340 cubic inch. and used the newer style water pump. and Only use wood block on the Floor Jack if you go to lift engine when installing or removing headers
I bought a seal driver kit from hare and Forbes today as well as the same mig welder Scotty uses and made sure I told them I was buying it cause of Carnage 🤙🏼
Might be a silly question / observation, but.... is it possible that the sump and windage tray were right, and its the pickup that was wrong? I'm guessing that's the one that was on the original "rebuilt"318? that engine was a bit of a bitsa, who knows what the pickup came from? could it be a 360 part?
Love this Scotty just show’s what we all go through when it doesn’t work but is meant to work the frustration with the hammer I know that feeling 🤣😂 but I thought the shifter was more ur stile 🤪🤣
Watching your battles with the sump etc, my first thought was Uncle Tony. Obviously, you have the same subscription’s I have Scotty. Loving your no secrets style with your videos.
Hi Scotty, i enjoy watching the progress on many of your projects. But, as a mechanic and performance engine builder i need to point out a couple of things. I hope you have thoroughly cleaned that sump of any metal shavings from your mods, and i can't believe you painted an open engine. Overspray and contaminants everywhere. Hope it stays together. Please don't take this the wrong way, but building a quality motor to last is like performing surgery, cleanliness is everything. Look forward to the next episode. Cheers Rick...
Great series I am building the same motor. Kb 4 ring pistons 10.5 to1/ 60 over bore. I hope my machinist set gap @ 32000. ?? Your series is invaluable to me. I so appreciate it. Thanks man.
Hey did i hear Scotty quote Uncle Tony!.. my second most favorite Chrysler guy! I even got one of his UTG T shirts with Roll your own cigarette smell too!
A nice little upgrade for a small block Mopar is to use a late model (magnum) camshaft retaining plate. It has a provision for keeping chain stretch in check by using a spring mounted nylon plate. And it's not all that expensive.
I'm surprised by the Milodon sump issue. I have one on my 302 Windsor and it's great. But obviously something is up with yours. Keep up the fight mate. 💪
This content is as good as anything else you put up. Shows us the reality of any project car. And why so many rolling shells with 'all the parts' are for sale 😂 when you pulled that high volume sump out I wondered why you didn't go for one from the beginning.
Awesome job Scotty! I was there just a few weeks ago…as you say though, reality is: I get the engine in the Challenger and finally manage to get the extractors on. Shit. Now the column shift mechanism goes literally right in the middle of the collector. Shit. Time for deviation from stock, flip bracket on trans up and forwards, make new bracket to receive rod on the chassis side. Shorten lever and drill new hole that connects shifter rod in trans after some maths and testing of geometry so that everything changes gear properly. Good. Start engine. Shit. Starter motor wire has lost continuity somewhere. Install new wire. Good. Start engine properly for the first time. Shit. Voltage is off the scale, pegged as hard as it can go. How can this change from when the engine ran a year ago just fine??? Regulator must be stuffed or some other electrical crap that will do my head in, Stuff it, disconnect alternator, run on battery only. Start engine again. Hmmm better check those two plug wires jammed up near the extractor pipe that’s unnecessarily close for some reason when designed. Shit. Almost burned through the boots after running engine in. And on and on it bloody goes. Won’t even get into the new aftermarket bumper that never quite fitted correctly… hmm 3/8 inch longer than the original will do that I guess. So yep it’s not just you mate! Will see how the first drive and oil change goes next….look forward to the next video mate, keep plugging away!
I was waiting for the bashing part. Let me see now, these parts were available for this exact application 35 - 40 years ago? Straight forward fitment as I recall (Two pan/pickup positions depending but Sweet)!
When I painted an engine I wait until everything's assembled. Then mask off the exhaust ports, carb flange, and distributor opening and shoot it with at least 3 coats. Have you considered K-member clearance with that Russell pan? I've seen where K-member clearance cuts were needed in some A-body applications. I don't feel the extra capacity will be necessary because you won't be twisting it any tighter then 6-grand. I had a 340 that saw regular 6500rpm shift points with a stock oiling system with no issues. And did you consider de-burring and coating the lifter valley with armature paint to aid in oil drain-back? Looking forward to seeing the top end go on.
It's pretty crappy when you buy good quality stuff and it doesn't fit ! But as usual you did what Clint Eastwood said in Heartbreak Ridge... ya gotta Adapt overcome or improvise ! Good stuff Scotty. Cheers as always from Sydney . 🇦🇺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🇦🇺
Been looking forward to seeing the Mopar donk get the final assembly 👌 As for degreeing the cam I’ve only had one issue with a build years ago and using a custom grind cam. Did the dot to dot match, and it ran but wasn’t very breathtaking in the power department. I reinstalled the cam with a degree wheel and I had installed the cam 1 tooth retarded, fixed and was great. Just pays to use matching valve train gear ⚙️ like you have with the Edelbrock kit. Keep it up mate. Love this content 👌😎 🚗 💨
Great episode scotty Did you clean out the pickup tube after heating it up did it oxidise? So many fiddle little tasks on bolt on parts Your a good old school car guy and make them fit 🙂👍🏻🙂
Scotty I love what you do, dont let those damn keyboard warriors pull you down. It's you car, your money your time do whatever the hell you want
Thanks for the shout out for play-doh Scotty. We appreciate your support as always.
It is like Mighty Car Mods say:
"Bolt on never means bolt on"
That is exactly why I enjoy watching every episode Scotty not just a camera down look what we did channel. That part has remained since the old garage days 🤙🏼
Your show should be called “reality”
It’s what keeps me coming back.
This is exactly why I like Carnage - for Scotty's honesty. I've used to watch all kinds of car building shows on tv, and later, on the internet, as kid, but when I grew up, and bought a car, I've realized that they all have edited out various blunders or how parts aren't fitting, or how bolts are rust-welded and etc. etc.
No doubt, that oil pan should have came with a disclaimer (for use with a main girdle only), that would lift it up a little bit
The struggle is real
Plastigauge and Play-doh....two very simple but essential tools for the engine builder.
Scotty : Welcome to the bashing portion of our show *smashes oil pan with mallet*
Me: Feel better now, Scotty?
Covid schmovid really enjoying this channel can't wait to see your Dad's ute ...send it I'm sure he'll be watching where ever he is . Good on ya mate 🤙🤙🤙
That’s a nice looking sump you ended up with in the end bloody legends. Nice things like that is what gets customers to buy products.
Never done an engine without an expert looking over my shoulder. Your tips are well explained. I love it when you're giving us the 'don't do this because....' it's just as valuable as what to do👍
I'm a qualified mechanic rather than a self appointed TH-cam mechanic (Richmond Tech Melbourne 1986, apprenticeship Merc-Benz dealership). I'm also a Mopar nut. My first car was a 318 and I have had 2x 383s and a 440 all in 2 dr coupes and I know something of Mopar V8s.
On a couple of 80s Rangie classics, I recently installed two identical upgraded camshafts (with new valve springs) in Range Rover 3.5 V8s.
One was my own vehicle (in mine the heads had to come off for unrelated reasons so I decided to replace the camshaft, springs, retainers and timing set at that time, the other Rangie the heads didn't have to come off.
The results on mine were so impressive, (the thing had this sub 1000rpm torque and still revved cleanly to 5900rpm - Not bad!) my mate wanted this exact cam and spring upgrade for his Rangie too.
I think you know where this is going.
So for mine, having some mechanical experience I decided to take the liberty of getting a timing set with adjustable advance and retard and based on my degrees being off a bit, then for the other camshaft install.
After degreeing my camshaft, I found it was retarded 3deg. I set it as close to the cam card specs as possible with the timing set I had. I think the best was +.5deg adv.
A few months later I installed the second camshaft and after degreeing (and rechecking again just to make sure), I found it was 100% perfect out of the box in the 0/0 posi - that is two camshafts and spring and retainer kits with same part number, two timing sets with same part number in two Range Rover 3.5 V8s.
How does it happen? Stack up of manufacturing tolerances, that's how! These tolerances may or may not be the camshaft grinder, they may be the crankshaft/camshaft keyway, the crankshaft journal grinding, block casting, rod length tolerances, other machining tolerances so on and so forth.
So what do you get for doing it? Well a broad spread of power across all RPM ranges in street type camshafts (and some other unimportant crap like valve-piston clearance with high lift long[er] duration cams when combined with higher comp engines and larger valves revving over a stock 4600rpm).
In some ways Edelbrock/Isky are guilty because I checked out their camshaft installation guides and they promote the join the dots method. I get why and it's to absolve the company of liability as there's less to stuff up in the install on a stock engine. I bet it doesn't apply to engines with higher comp.
If a cam manufacturer says join the dots and you get bent valves because at high RPM you slightly over rev it and the springs oscillate (likely on hydraulic camshafts) and the valves clip the pistons because you upped the comp to 10.5:1 from 9.2 or 8.6ish, I can practically guarantee camshaft grinders aren't going to help you out since we're here and they're in the US and they couldn't care less. They'll say, "Did you degree the camshaft after checking the piston to valve clearances?", or something stupid.
Your attitude, re expert TH-cam commenters is fine but just don't go getting too smart by hammering commenters on this issue because you're promoting your opinion as fact. If you don't buy a single manufacturers head/cam/timing/piston set well then what?
The Dalai Lama once said, "Trust in your fellow man but lock your car." Camshaft degreeing is locking your car isn't it?
I remember join the dots was a colouring book from my kindergarten era. I never could find that pesky # '13'...
Not promoting my opinion as fact, just saying that the majority of street engines don't need it. If I was building a 10/10ths racing engine it would be different.
"Welcome to the bashing portion of our show". I laughed so hard I nearly fainted Scotty. So so funny because it represents at least one portion of everyone's car build....
This is completely normal. All modified engines need clearancing/ grinding, adjusting, etc. well done Scotty on a great episode
Good job mate it’s good to have great neighbours around the block. Haddad race cars and engines to the rescue
Just did a ls1 with aftermarket parts and had the same problem just about everything had to be modified to fit, not so bolt on these days Scotty.. Been really enjoying the series on dad's ute, glad you show the problems so people get to see what goes into fitting these things. Love the show 👌
Need a royal commission into “bolt on” parts makers
That’s it Scotty, when in doubt belt it out🤣
Scott, engine building was how Murphy's law was created ;) And Murphy was an optimist.
Hey Scotty, time to shop locally. allmost on the other side of dandy/frankston RD is dandy bolts and they stayed open for click and collect right through lockdown. Cheers
Great video Scotty. Always seems to be something. Like my old man used to say, there's no such thing as a five minute or simple job. Keep up the good work and the content rolling. Really enjoying this series.
Hurdles suck but we get more episodes as a result! Thanks Scotty!
Great persistence Scotty. Love your work. Thanks for the awesome content 👍
Good on ya russels legends and keep up the good work scotty
Awesome to see you watch good ol uncle tony!!
The windage tray will self clerance the first time you fire the engine.
Lol good plan
I'm not gonna lie. Learnt heaps. Thanks Scotty !
Scotty: If you put the bolt in the chuck of the drill press and clamp the drill bit in the vice - the bit self centres and works like a ghetto lathe for simple jobs like that. Works a treat.
Tried that, it didn't work
Scotty your always a joy to watch
Love ya scotty, you hammered that episode home!
Great content Scotty
I enjoy the up s and downs of the build
Loving this Build Scotty keep up the good work mate
You're right Scotty, I would rather see your mistakes, and how you correct them, rather than a gloss over, short story. Anybody who assembles anything on a car knows that sometimes things don't fit. How you deal with that is where the clever stuff is. LOL. Oh and btw, the hammer is always a clever way to deal with it. LOL. Love your work.
The only person that never makes a mistake is the person that does f**k all
Looking forward to seeing the next episode Scotty...
Cheers mate from Bill...
Great show thanks. Keep up the good work
Another great video when you are building engines sometimes you must make on the go corrections this is what makes it such fun there is nothing like a good adjustment with a persuader
On Carnage this week "Scott's engine building Reality" with the Dad's ute build.
Made to fit after you modify it 😂 seems pretty common place with automotive parts.
Referring to Billy Bobs Garage 😜
Kits that fit or don't makes me think of the Mighty Car crew too.
Good job Scott keep pushing forward with it. Persistence, persuasion and a hammer are all required 😎👍
Bloody hell what a mission. Keep keeping it real Scotty. Love ya work
And from this day forth, along the lines of "Doing a Bradbury" Any bolt on part that requires more than one modification to fit shall be know as "Requires a Scotty" :)
Parramatta Rd. Saturday night testing Every set of lights from Lidcome to Beefies 😆
Awesome video, can’t wait for the next one
Keep bangin' on it, Scotty! Yer a bloody lockdown legend, mate!
Keep up the good Work Scotty, great content & of course go the Mopars!!
the Pickups will have to be Milodon with Milodon oil pans. I used Moar peformance windage tray with Moroso Deep pan , and no intereferences. ran for years that way with 1968 -70 L.A. 340 cubic inch. and used the newer style water pump. and Only use wood block on the Floor Jack if you go to lift engine when installing or removing headers
I bought a seal driver kit from hare and Forbes today as well as the same mig welder Scotty uses and made sure I told them I was buying it cause of Carnage 🤙🏼
Thanks mate
I share your frustrations Scotty, identical hassle with my old 396 chev , totally appreciate your honesty ,love the build
Cool, thanks!
Great video Scotty. 👍🏻
I have have lived and breathed similar issues with building engines and cars myself, but it’s fun lol 😂
Scotty mate your spot on dot to dot and TDC is the best way, cheers and keep up the great work buddy.😊🚗🚗🚗🚗👌🙌👍
Loving the mopar content mate 👌
Might be a silly question / observation, but.... is it possible that the sump and windage tray were right, and its the pickup that was wrong?
I'm guessing that's the one that was on the original "rebuilt"318? that engine was a bit of a bitsa, who knows what the pickup came from? could it be a 360 part?
It's possible, but we have had the same issue with Milodon windage trays in the past
Used to have the same problem with Ford sixes. Dropping an XA 250 in an XR is a good learning process.
I made banjo bolts out of normal bolts the other day, with a handheld drill and a vice ! Just sayin' haha. Lovin this build 👌
Love this Scotty just show’s what we all go through when it doesn’t work but is meant to work the frustration with the hammer I know that feeling 🤣😂 but I thought the shifter was more ur stile 🤪🤣
That pickup be like “you will not use this sump, ya jackass”
Cheers on another great episode Scotty. Keep up the good work!
Scotty good honest job .
Gday mate. First time viewer,love it.
As a Cm owner myself running a mild 318/727 I’m watching keenly.
🤟
Lock down number 5 !!..
Scott holds up 2 fingers hahahahaha
I was waiting for that. V is Roman numerals for 5
Watching your battles with the sump etc, my first thought was Uncle Tony. Obviously, you have the same subscription’s I have Scotty.
Loving your no secrets style with your videos.
Sump $250 sump massage priceless.
Hi Scotty, i enjoy watching the progress on many of your projects. But, as a mechanic and performance engine builder i need to point out a couple of things. I hope you have thoroughly cleaned that sump of any metal shavings from your mods, and i can't believe you painted an open engine. Overspray and contaminants everywhere. Hope it stays together. Please don't take this the wrong way, but building a quality motor to last is like performing surgery, cleanliness is everything. Look forward to the next episode. Cheers Rick...
It was thoroughly cleaned
Is it just me, or is the shifter getting bigger with every episode?
How big IS it, Scotty? 15 inch? 18 inch?
Don't worry, it'll get bigger than that!
I thought that was a contractual obligation, The bigger the shifter, the bigger the Carnage.
I feel your pain about the lockdown bulshit. Thanks for sharing your video very informative and a great video liked and followed
Nice Happy Gilmore reference Scotty. I got it.
Awesome!
Nice one m8
You would figure a company like Mildon would make a product that fits. But go figure I reckon. Keep it up Scotty looking better every episode.
Great series I am building the same motor. Kb 4 ring pistons 10.5 to1/ 60 over bore. I hope my machinist set gap @ 32000. ??
Your series is invaluable to me. I so appreciate it. Thanks man.
Hey did i hear Scotty quote Uncle Tony!.. my second most favorite Chrysler guy! I even got one of his UTG T shirts with Roll your own cigarette smell too!
He's right in this case, even the good stuff is junk now.
A nice little upgrade for a small block Mopar is to use a late model (magnum) camshaft retaining plate. It has a provision for keeping chain stretch in check by using a spring mounted nylon plate.
And it's not all that expensive.
I have seen them but haven't been able to find one locally
@@STREETMACHINETV Believe it or not Amazon has them.
That poor green Tory being hidden in the back of the shed like a red headed stepchild
I'm surprised by the Milodon sump issue. I have one on my 302 Windsor and it's great. But obviously something is up with yours.
Keep up the fight mate. 💪
good job mate. de ja vu watching you drop a bolt in the engine
Hey Scotty you look right at home there poking a lubed up shaft in that Mopar. Don’t make ya missus jealous lol
A good flog fixes everything 😅
love the masking job Scotty hahahah
This content is as good as anything else you put up. Shows us the reality of any project car. And why so many rolling shells with 'all the parts' are for sale 😂 when you pulled that high volume sump out I wondered why you didn't go for one from the beginning.
And that is why you keep all your old oil pans, cylinder heads and timing chain covers - it makes masking and painting the engine block a breeze!!!
No comment just sending love and youtube Numbers 's !!!!! xxxx
Thanks Jen
Awesome job Scotty! I was there just a few weeks ago…as you say though, reality is: I get the engine in the Challenger and finally manage to get the extractors on. Shit. Now the column shift mechanism goes literally right in the middle of the collector. Shit. Time for deviation from stock, flip bracket on trans up and forwards, make new bracket to receive rod on the chassis side. Shorten lever and drill new hole that connects shifter rod in trans after some maths and testing of geometry so that everything changes gear properly. Good. Start engine. Shit. Starter motor wire has lost continuity somewhere. Install new wire. Good. Start engine properly for the first time. Shit. Voltage is off the scale, pegged as hard as it can go. How can this change from when the engine ran a year ago just fine??? Regulator must be stuffed or some other electrical crap that will do my head in, Stuff it, disconnect alternator, run on battery only. Start engine again. Hmmm better check those two plug wires jammed up near the extractor pipe that’s unnecessarily close for some reason when designed. Shit. Almost burned through the boots after running engine in. And on and on it bloody goes. Won’t even get into the new aftermarket bumper that never quite fitted correctly… hmm 3/8 inch longer than the original will do that I guess.
So yep it’s not just you mate! Will see how the first drive and oil change goes next….look forward to the next video mate, keep plugging away!
Yep, you gotta love it
Know the feeling Scotty...Takes me back to all the issues i had when building my 393ci Cleveland stroker using USA parts...Endless fucking drama!
Note to self, Must always lube up your shaft before inserting it 🤣
Not if the receptacle of said shaft is already sufficiently pre-lubed with 'factory' lube. 😉
I was waiting for the bashing part. Let me see now, these parts were available for this exact application 35 - 40 years ago? Straight forward fitment as I recall (Two pan/pickup positions depending but Sweet)!
You know how to work that shaft hahaha, and it was sticky 😉
Not sure how I missed this video dropping. The BOM guys would call that sump massage a bit of "fettling".
🤣🤣🤣🤣 good video scotty. I wonder how many tool was thrown making this episode 🤣🤣🤣
Got to love those straight bolt on parts fit's stock or modified
Well you’re in Australia and it’s an American motor, so since you’re on the other side of the world the pan is upside down and backwards right?
Haha
When I painted an engine I wait until everything's assembled. Then mask off the exhaust ports, carb flange, and distributor opening and shoot it with at least 3 coats. Have you considered K-member clearance with that Russell pan? I've seen where K-member clearance cuts were needed in some A-body applications. I don't feel the extra capacity will be necessary because you won't be twisting it any tighter then 6-grand. I had a 340 that saw regular 6500rpm shift points with a stock oiling system with no issues. And did you consider de-burring and coating the lifter valley with armature paint to aid in oil drain-back? Looking forward to seeing the top end go on.
I considered doing the valley but decided that if I was going to do that I should do everything... and I didn't want to do that :)
It's pretty crappy when you buy good quality stuff and it doesn't fit !
But as usual you did what Clint Eastwood said in Heartbreak Ridge... ya gotta Adapt overcome or improvise !
Good stuff Scotty.
Cheers as always from Sydney .
🇦🇺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🍺🇦🇺
Love that movie
i could believe it when that second sump didnt fit properly ,but hey its all good now ,hope the rest of the build goes smoothly
At least it was a simple fix
Episode 17 of Carnage unnumbered
Been looking forward to seeing the Mopar donk get the final assembly 👌 As for degreeing the cam I’ve only had one issue with a build years ago and using a custom grind cam. Did the dot to dot match, and it ran but wasn’t very breathtaking in the power department. I reinstalled the cam with a degree wheel and I had installed the cam 1 tooth retarded, fixed and was great. Just pays to use matching valve train gear ⚙️ like you have with the Edelbrock kit. Keep it up mate. Love this content 👌😎 🚗 💨
Yep, it has its place but just not for this one
@@STREETMACHINETV spot on mate. Looking forward to some more Carnage 😉
Sweet
Loctite real good idea on cam bolts
Great episode scotty
Did you clean out the pickup tube after heating it up did it oxidise?
So many fiddle little tasks on bolt on parts
Your a good old school car guy and make them fit 🙂👍🏻🙂
Hello Scotty - from the U..S.A. - !!!!!
G'day mate, hopefully I can get back stateside when the spicy cough is finished
Just built a 360, returned windage tray and fancy pan . Used stock deep truck pan. We have a w-350 pickup.Not worth the trouble...
Nah nah mate the dipstick is actually on backwards too haha that sump was just dreaming on working with stock
What is the metal rod that drops in the sump while you are drilling the hole?