Very informative video. Made it simple to trouble shoot my intermittent stumble which felt like a loss of spark. All my resistance measurements were the same as yours, once repaired. Bad resister in one of the spark plug caps. Thanks.
The plug caps on Japanese bikes have for decades been pretty much universally 10kΩ resistor caps.. Besides that you can get generic ones from NGK which are actually identical to OEM for half the price or less. I stand corrected: The required type for the DR650SE is NGK VD10F. You should be able to get them for less than 10€ / 10USD a piece from automotive suppliers. NGK produces most of their spark plug caps with no resistor - 1kΩ - 5kΩ and 10kΩ.
Thank you for making such a clear and informative video! My dr650 suddenly has no spark. I was hoping you might be able to help. The ignition coil is a little under spec at 22.8 so I got a replacement. The replacement reads 25 without caps and 34.8 with caps on. Each cap is about 5. Is that a bad sign? should I not use them? Is lower resistance worse then higher resistance?
Saved money at 10% of the price of replacing the coil, but likely a lot of frustration too, since replacing the coil alone would still result in rough running!
ebay special coil had 24-25k ohm, my old oem had 4k and both spark plug caps were 9-9.5k ohm. Lesson of the day, don't trust ebay. Thank you for this video
I'm trying to test my DR650 -- Bike sometimes runs really bad after several hours so I'm trying to diagnose it. I tried plugging in my multimeter leads to the caps and it was still showing 0.00. Electrical noob here. Do i need to do anything other than turn on the bike, take the caps off the plugs, and plug in the multimeter leads? Thanks!
Steve Romm multimeter needs to be set to ohms, bike doesn't need to be on, make sure the multimeter is touching the metal part inside of the caps, ifwhen it's really warm check the pulsar coil resistance too.
For some reason I'm still not able to get any reading from the plug caps. Someone from drriders.com recommended removing the caps and testing wire to wire -- I'll try that tomorrow. I was able to get a reading of .2 ohms on the connector side of the ignition coil which is out of the spec (.07 - .12). I wonder if that's enough reason to replace the ignition coil? I'm trying to solve a weird issue that has happened a couple of times so far -- after riding the bike for several hours, it started to buck, lose power, sputter, backfire, stall out, etc... Thanks for the help and keep up the good work!
Steve Romm electrical systems are hard, and I'm not sure of how much you already know, but ohms are just electrical resistance, if you set the meter to ohms, put it across a piece of wood it'll read o/l or infinite resistance, across a piece of copper wire 1ft long maybe 10ohms, across a 20 foot thicker wire maybe 200 ohms as an example, it's also temperature dependant so I like to say a tolerance of +/-10 percent is ok a .2 reading is out but might still be sufficient enough to do its job. This bike had a few issues, it got a rebuild, spark plug cap, but it did get a pulsar coil as well, a pulsar coil tells it when to spark, if it's out of spec and heat effects resistance don't forget, it'll have insufficient spark, it's the same diagnosis ohm test done under the seat, but the pulsar coil aka pick up coil lives with the stator. Again Suzuki sell only the whole stator which is crazy but an after market pick up coil for the dr was about a 10th of the stator so price
listen to this shit ....bike wouldnt start i pull the first plug wire off , stick a screwdriver in it to check spark to ground and bike fires right up with only the back plug installed .......sounds like spark plug wire cap is the problem
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
Great simple to the point video, tell the facts without a 15 minute life story ...Thanks..
Very informative video. Made it simple to trouble shoot my intermittent stumble which felt like a loss of spark. All my resistance measurements were the same as yours, once repaired. Bad resister in one of the spark plug caps. Thanks.
The plug caps on Japanese bikes have for decades been pretty much universally 10kΩ resistor caps.. Besides that you can get generic ones from NGK which are actually identical to OEM for half the price or less. I stand corrected: The required type for the DR650SE is NGK VD10F. You should be able to get them for less than 10€ / 10USD a piece from automotive suppliers. NGK produces most of their spark plug caps with no resistor - 1kΩ - 5kΩ and 10kΩ.
Thank you for making such a clear and informative video! My dr650 suddenly has no spark. I was hoping you might be able to help. The ignition coil is a little under spec at 22.8 so I got a replacement. The replacement reads 25 without caps and 34.8 with caps on. Each cap is about 5. Is that a bad sign? should I not use them? Is lower resistance worse then higher resistance?
Did it work out? Having issues myself about the same reading as you but figured it'd be close enough.
Saved money at 10% of the price of replacing the coil, but likely a lot of frustration too, since replacing the coil alone would still result in rough running!
Spot on!
I'm measuring 24 k ohms at my coil leads and about 42 with both spark plugs caps on. This sounds way off no?
ebay special coil had 24-25k ohm, my old oem had 4k and both spark plug caps were 9-9.5k ohm. Lesson of the day, don't trust ebay. Thank you for this video
I just bought one from ebay and it doesn't work...
IS there a place i can message you about my dr 650
I'm trying to test my DR650 -- Bike sometimes runs really bad after several hours so I'm trying to diagnose it. I tried plugging in my multimeter leads to the caps and it was still showing 0.00. Electrical noob here. Do i need to do anything other than turn on the bike, take the caps off the plugs, and plug in the multimeter leads? Thanks!
Steve Romm multimeter needs to be set to ohms, bike doesn't need to be on, make sure the multimeter is touching the metal part inside of the caps, ifwhen it's really warm check the pulsar coil resistance too.
For some reason I'm still not able to get any reading from the plug caps. Someone from drriders.com recommended removing the caps and testing wire to wire -- I'll try that tomorrow. I was able to get a reading of .2 ohms on the connector side of the ignition coil which is out of the spec (.07 - .12). I wonder if that's enough reason to replace the ignition coil? I'm trying to solve a weird issue that has happened a couple of times so far -- after riding the bike for several hours, it started to buck, lose power, sputter, backfire, stall out, etc... Thanks for the help and keep up the good work!
Steve Romm electrical systems are hard, and I'm not sure of how much you already know, but ohms are just electrical resistance, if you set the meter to ohms, put it across a piece of wood it'll read o/l or infinite resistance, across a piece of copper wire 1ft long maybe 10ohms, across a 20 foot thicker wire maybe 200 ohms as an example, it's also temperature dependant so I like to say a tolerance of +/-10 percent is ok a .2 reading is out but might still be sufficient enough to do its job. This bike had a few issues, it got a rebuild, spark plug cap, but it did get a pulsar coil as well, a pulsar coil tells it when to spark, if it's out of spec and heat effects resistance don't forget, it'll have insufficient spark, it's the same diagnosis ohm test done under the seat, but the pulsar coil aka pick up coil lives with the stator. Again Suzuki sell only the whole stator which is crazy but an after market pick up coil for the dr was about a 10th of the stator so price
That's what my bike was doing. I adjusted the valves and now it only runs strong for a minute or so then dies if you give it any gas.
Did you get it going?
listen to this shit ....bike wouldnt start i pull the first plug wire off , stick a screwdriver in it to check spark to ground and bike fires right up with only the back plug installed .......sounds like spark plug wire cap is the problem