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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2024
- Here is a quick overview of my amp and sub install on my 2007 Audi A4 B7 2.0. It is a NON Bose system, that I managed to integrate an aftermarket amplifier and two 10" subs WITHOUT removing the head unit or cutting any OEM wires.
Head Unit : OEM RNS-E MK-II
Wire Kit : Installgear 4 gauge OFC 17' wiring kit
Line Out Converter : Kicker 46KISLOC2 K-Series Stereo with Remote Turn-On Output
Amp : Rockford Fosgate Prime 500.1 A/B
Subs : JL Audio W0v2 single voice coil over 4 ohm head - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
You have no idea how much trouble you have just saved me. We have the exact same car and I was going to remove half the interior just to feed the connection cables to the head unit. Thank you so so so much!!!
Excellent! This is why we make the videos!
You, my friend, are a life saver!! 😁 I've beeeeen wanting to do this but didn't know quite how to go about it. Your step by step instructions and showing every little details helped fill in all my blanks. I'm ordering my amp and subs tomorrow with the Kicker HiLo box. Thank you!!
Glad I could help! That's why I did the video, couldn't find anything of real substance.
I 3D-printed a connector to replace the sub/rear amp completly. I only used the existing amp-remote in the harness and the rear speaker terminals. Placed two different amps in the right cubby and the sub in the left cubby.
ohhhh really, now that is cool and something I never thought about. Would you care to share the file? I would love to use that for the RS4, to keep from splicing wires on that unit and trying to reuse the oem sub box but with another amp.
Why does the shifter look so weird? Shouldn’t it have
R-1-3-5
-2-4-6
It helps with launching and keeping lap times down.
how wide is that sub box in cm?
You don't need line out converter. The amp has line outs and remote turn on built in. There is a wiring diagram available online that'll show you.
You can certainly tap into the amp wiring but then you are cutting into the harness. Using the line converter is fool proof, easier and same results.
Hi, love the vid. Can u please show the diagram how u connected oem amp to the kicker? Would help a lot
Sorry, I never did a wiring diagram, its pretty straight forward, as explained in the video though.
@@PBGarage figured it out already, thanks for the answer tho
Nice setup. I love how much space you freed up by deleting the stock sub. Does the new 6x4x3 foot sub enclosure take up much space compared to the stock sub you deleted? Now that you have so much room in the trunk are you going to load up a manual transmission from Kenny's for a manly swap? Did you punch yourself in the face with those freshly manicured hands?
I showed my mom the video because I figured that was the target audience for this automatic 2.0T car, and her first remark was "oh his hands look awfully clean for someone that works on cars".
Haha no hands, or eye holes were sacrificed during this installation!
Thats because I operate at nearly surgical cleanleness during my automotive operations. Your mom has great taste in drive trains as well!
Awesome video on how you set your system up! Do you or anyone else happen to know if setting up your RCA line out converter on the Bose amp system works the same? Plan on doing this exact setup but have the factory Bose amp and sub.
It should operate all the same with a bose amp/subwoofer lead. Keep us posted.
@@PBGarage Ended up working out the same way with the Bose system. I instead tapped into the subwoofer wires (Red and Brown) using the same Kicker LOC and it worked just like your video. Only thing that had me confused were that both the red and brown wires were receiving the same amount of power (using a multimeter and test light) once i've removed the insolation. Not too sure why this was the case or if speaker wire is meant to receive current in both positive and negative wires. Ended up tapping the L+ to the red wire and the L- to the brown wire and seems to work just fine. Other then that everything went as planed. Thanks for the video!
Hey awesome to hear it all worked out! Speakers operate on AC current, to move the speaker back and forth. hence why you saw power from both. Speaker wires still use the positive/negative terminology so that you can ensure your speakers are synced properly.
Hello, how did you retrofitted the headunit from a newer Audi?
Thanks for the Video
Hey, there are so many threads on fourms on that DIY that it never crossed my mind to make a video. Its pretty straight forward to be honest, pretty much plug and play, except the radio antenna; you need an adapter.
Hello, does nothing need to be connected to the navigation?
No. I installed the headunit two years before, and didn't have to remove it all for anything.
where can i get the mk2 screen?? i still have my oem screen in
Need something from a 2009+ audi iirc. Have to replace the whole unit, not just the screen. "Should" be plug and play.
Wont work on my b7. Did i do something wrong?
Double check wiring and that it's receiving power.
Is it possible to power the rear speakers as well by this hookup?
If you have a non bose system, then yes. From the rear amp wiring harness locate the rear door speaker wires, cut/tap into them and feed them from your new amp
@@PBGarage , thanks for the quick response. I have a B6 Avant with the non Bose system. I’d actually to prefer to do a 5 channel amp so I can do a sub and the door speakers to get the most out of my system. I do like your setup with the RNS-E and never realized it had backup camera capabilities.
Rnse mk1 works with b6/7 oem back up cameras. The mk2 version in the video does not unfortunately
You will only be able to power the rear speakers from the amp harness in the back, you will need to run speaker cable to the front doors or back if the head unit harness
🏃 *Promo SM*