@@toddkorolphoto my process has been hybrid so far and I recently got an enlarger. I really wanted to find a good video on that topic. You delivered as usual 🙂
Thanks for sharing Todd. I would imagine this works well for negatives that are having about the same density. But you would have to adjust if you have one that is more dense.
I am looking at using my digital camera to photograph the contact sheet on the light table. And then storing that in a folder on the computer. And numbering the negative film holder to match. I have been doing this using the iPhone but I want more resolution.
There is a huge difference in contrast between a contact print and a 1 : 1 print made by the enlarger. A contact print is always softer than a 1 : 1 print from the enlarger. There at least seven different light sources to apply for an enlarger. opaque glass plus an opal bulb. opaque glass plus a high voltage cold light source. single condensor plus an opal bulb. double condensor with an opal bulb. triple condensor with an opal bulb. ight mix box with opaque glass plus low voltage bulb. pointlight bulb plus onensor(s). daylight/sunlight by means of light reflecting via mirror and condensors or opaque glass. No power supply needed. Opaque glass and light mix prints are almost as soft as a contact print. Each condensor makes the contrast rise about one grade. The more condensors, the higher the contrast of the print. Dull optics and dull condensors lower the contrast. A top quality enlarger lens produces a higher contrast. A not safe or wrong illumination of the darkroom can lower the contrast. Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands
There is a huge difference in contrast between a contact print and a 1 : 1 print made by the enlarger. A contact print is always softer than a 1 : 1 print from the enlarger. There are at least seven different light sources to apply for an enlarger. Each condensor makes the contrast rise about one grade. The more condensors, the higher the contrast of the print. Dull optics and dull condensors lower the contrast. A top quality enlarger lens produces a higher contrast. A not safe or wrong illumination of the darkroom can lower the contrast. Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands
Hi Todd, many thanks for sharing this. I'm just thinking about buying a flatbed scanner for this or making old fashioned contact sheets. A scanner costs about 700,-- € which would give me a lot of paper :-) and the scanned files needs to be printed which is also not for free. So in the end I think going the old way is the better way for me.
When I print I start at say 18/20 seconds and count backwards in 2/ 3 sec increments. 5/10 second is not a number I’ll want to print at. And when making prints I like a longer print time to give myself more flexibility when dodging and burning....
Todd, when you print the definitive negative if you have to change the aperture of the lens to F8, F11, you use the full aperture only for the proof, correct?
A much needed video on YT, thanks Todd!
Thanks, it will hopefully help those just starting out.
@@toddkorolphoto my process has been hybrid so far and I recently got an enlarger. I really wanted to find a good video on that topic. You delivered as usual 🙂
@@toulcaz31 that’s great news. Thanks.
Another great video. Many thanks Todd. Don't stop making them!!
Thanks, more to come.
Great video Todd!!Many thanks!
So glad you liked it, many thanks...
@@toddkorolphoto Great!
Your a wizard Todd! Great vid, thanks!
Thanks so much!
Thanks for sharing Todd. I would imagine this works well for negatives that are having about the same density. But you would have to adjust if you have one that is more dense.
Yes you would have to adjust the time for negatives of different density.
Hi, great video thanks! Did you edit those manually or use a digital platform ?
If it was manual, do you have any video of the process?
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing
I am looking at using my digital camera to photograph the contact sheet on the light table. And then storing that in a folder on the computer. And numbering the negative film holder to match. I have been doing this using the iPhone but I want more resolution.
Yes that will work
There is a huge difference in contrast between a contact print
and a 1 : 1 print made by the enlarger.
A contact print is always softer than a 1 : 1 print from the enlarger.
There at least seven different light sources to apply for an enlarger.
opaque glass plus an opal bulb.
opaque glass plus a high voltage cold light source.
single condensor plus an opal bulb.
double condensor with an opal bulb.
triple condensor with an opal bulb.
ight mix box with opaque glass plus low voltage bulb.
pointlight bulb plus onensor(s).
daylight/sunlight by means of light reflecting via mirror
and condensors or opaque glass. No power supply needed.
Opaque glass and light mix prints are almost as soft as a contact print.
Each condensor makes the contrast rise about one grade.
The more condensors, the higher the contrast of the print.
Dull optics and dull condensors lower the contrast.
A top quality enlarger lens produces a higher contrast.
A not safe or wrong illumination of the darkroom can lower the contrast.
Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands
There is a huge difference in contrast between a contact print
and a 1 : 1 print made by the enlarger.
A contact print is always softer than a 1 : 1 print from the enlarger.
There are at least seven different light sources to apply for an enlarger.
Each condensor makes the contrast rise about one grade.
The more condensors, the higher the contrast of the print.
Dull optics and dull condensors lower the contrast.
A top quality enlarger lens produces a higher contrast.
A not safe or wrong illumination of the darkroom can lower the contrast.
Jaco van Lith, Rotterdam The Netherlands
Hi Todd, many thanks for sharing this.
I'm just thinking about buying a flatbed scanner for this or making old fashioned contact sheets.
A scanner costs about 700,-- € which would give me a lot of paper :-) and the scanned files needs to be printed which is also not for free.
So in the end I think going the old way is the better way for me.
And there is only so much computer work I really want to do to. 😉
When I print I start at say 18/20 seconds and count backwards in 2/ 3 sec increments. 5/10 second is not a number I’ll want to print at. And when making prints I like a longer print time to give myself more flexibility when dodging and burning....
Todd, when you print the definitive negative if you have to change the aperture of the lens to F8, F11,
you use the full aperture only for the proof, correct?
I use F/8 to print my contact sheets.