I think the 5 channel dsp amp is great for people looking to do 1 or 2 subs max and power all the speakers as well. Definitely nice to have it all in one package.
I def don't hate on anyone buying an amp with a built in dsp but having done that myself I found I was stuck with that amp. In order to upgrade to bigger amps I had to buy a stand alone dm-608. That's the way I recommend folks go but honestly. Either unit is fantastic
There's an application for both. If you're really limited on space or you want a super simple setup go with the DSP integrated amp. Unfortunately most are manufactured with a class D amp. If you want something other than class D, you want total control of your system, and have the space then separate DSP is what you need
@P C so if someone was doing a demo for you on a class D system but you had no idea what sort of equipment he was running you'd be able to know it's class D?
THIS!… and software updates that don’t break functionality. Software that cannot reliably connect to the DSP would be frustrating. Per various forums, AudioControl has run hot and cold for connectivity through the years. I don’t know as much about Audiotec-Fischer’s software. Their DSP-PC-Tool is Windows 10/11 only. AudioControl has a Mac software app but I read it is not as robust as the Windows version. I did not run any of them yet but I will certainly do so before making a DSP purchase.
That’s one of the best. They have this crazy tuning device with the microphones that some Audison installers have. Did you get it tune through their special software !?
I am using a D6.1200 in a 2008 Ford Fusion. It is running my front stage and 2 Infinity 10” Kappa’s. My front stage is a pair of Dayton RS180P-4’s and a pair of SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4’s. I really like the system. My only regret is that I started thinking about adding differential rear fill. I would need more channels and a DSP that can create a differential signal. As much as I love the all-in-one concept of the D6.1200, it does have its upgrade limitations.
I personally went with a built In DSP amp by kicker for front stage speakers, radio powering rear door speakers, and a built in 10" sub for under seat in my frontier. Solid 450 watt system.
I feel DSP built into an amp has really one advantage not many mention, but also depending on the manufacturer could make or break a deal. My setup is overkill, but I’m rebuilding for 2 VX1000.5i units optical from a fix82 with the VXi hub. My plan is full active front stage 3way, using the subwoofer output from the amp for my door subs, channel1 tweet, channel2 high bass midrange, channel3 rear door full range, channel4 rear 3way speaker pods passive build, but one amp left, one amp right. Each amp has 2 pre-out’s adjustable by selecting your desired setting. So it gives me 4 pre-outs adjustable for anything I want. A set for sub, a set full range for pass through signal test, or just all 4 sub output. Now what I think makes the amp and DSP combo greater, is the option for higher signal voltage than what some DSP units limit you to. Like SPL builds that require high and clean signal voltage across voltage drop. Yes you can add a line driver after a DSP, but that can add noise to your signal, or with some, cut off your frequency range. Plus it is an additional unit you have to install.
You could achieve most of this with a Helix V Twelve and sub amp of your choice. You have 12 amplified channels to do whatever you want and 14 DSP channels to again do whatever you want. All in one package.
Mark you are excellent ! No offense to AudioControl, but I would suggest Helix M6DSP or M4DSP are the most bang for the buck in terms of quality and features. Each of those DSP amps's have 10 channels of processing with 6 and 4 powerd channels respectively, i think they give so many options to configure.
@@MowSow I give ease of operation to AudioControl. No one has to wrote codes in Helix either😀. Once you get the hang of any software or if you see some how to youtube videos no software is hard and Helix Latest software has improved on the ease of use and for anyone to get the best out of any system its Helix! Once again I do not have anything against Audio Control, I would to see AC make a better software than Helix
@@rajasekhar9840 I’m personally a huge fan of Audison the Italian Ferrari of amps and that’s the DSP Amp I am planning on getting, it might more pricy than Helix but it’s surely top quality and their tuning software is out of this world, but only Audison dealers have access to the tuning gizmos with the fancy microphones Can you tune the Helix yourself?
@@MowSow Audison or Helix Irrespective of who tunes, they require two things - a microphone and laptop, that's it in terms of hardware. But key thing is how to get the tuning right which gets the max out of your system and you actually hear the max potential of your system. I would suggest you to find some one who competes in an SQ class and take their support, that should be great
I went with the amp+dsp built in. I'm running the Kenwood XR6006 dsp. Super easy to set up and I can do all my adjustments with the Bluetooth built in. I would eventually like to upgrade my sub amp though. Running the jp8 but I'd like to match to the Kenwood.
My vote would go to a head unit with a DSP built in. Kind of like the Pioneer Stage 4 Reference stuff. The one that comes to mind would be the DEX-P99RS. You can make adjustments without having to connect to a laptop. All within reach. I'm not even sure they make head units with DSP capabilities anymore.
I plan to go with the D5.1300 for the build in my Blazer. I chose that for simplicity and mainly because I don't want to see any equipment after I am done and only really have room for 1 amp. I do unfortunately feel like I am having to make a slight compromise. I really wish AudioControl made a 7 channel DSP amp so that I could run an active front stage instead of have to choose between running passive crossovers up front or rear fill off the factory amp. I still prefer to make that compromise over going with more equipment and having to mount it in an area where it would be seen.
I prefer having my DSP separate. As Mark touched on, it gives the ability and opportunity to change things up down the road without having to reconfigure the dsp all over again.
@@mustangdemon87 I underestimated the needs of my 13W7 and I am going back to half bridge amplifier. SounDigital has an interesting product though. I'm just not a fan of its higher than average operating temperature or its behavior at and beyond its limits. Going with a Down 4 Sound JP23v2 instead.
@@mustangdemon87 pulling too much? I have clamped my sub and my 5500 watt amp is only doing 1500. Amp is rated to do 5575 at 2 ohms with 14.4v. I have the big 3, all 1/0 sky high OFC, 92 AH of AGM and a 10 Farad cap. I am currently running my sub's coils in series at 3 ohms and with box rise, I am sitting at 4.8 ohms. If I run the coils in parallel at .75 ohms, the amp goes into protect because its protection circuit measures DC resistance first. This would happen, even if I had the 1 ohm version. So I did some research and the JP23 v2 should do what I need. You have to understand that different types of amplifiers behave differently and most full-bridge brazillian designs run warm at idle and low power. I can rail on my SounDigital and it never reaches a burning hot temperature. Word of advice to you: before making statements against someone, ask questions first. Otherwise, you're just making assumptions. I DON'T KNOW IT ALL, but I have been into car audio for 32 years. I try and learn something new whenever I can and trying new and different products helps me to achieve that goal.
Another great video....I had use other brands DSP'S until I start following #CarAudioFabrication & I learned about #AudioControl DSP'S....instant game changer & I will never look back....I'm presently using the AudioControl DM-810 & for my purpose I wish it had 12 channels instead of 10....Would help with me going fully active by not using passive crossover....mono the stereo output....using the pass Thru on the amps or even thinking about using two DSP'S....as I don't have the space. 🇯🇲
Bottom line, DSP amps are for people that know what they will want and generally not interested in experimenting. Another thing to maybe consider is breakdowns and the speed of technology. D class amplifiers have come a long way. If we use a DSP amp, we are kinda stuck with it. Stand-alone we can upgrade and trade out pieces. Also, like mentioned, you are forced into having less channels with DSP amps. A kid I worked with had the amazing Helix V8. Then he heard my setup that uses 10 channels for a 2.1 setup. He wants to try 3 way active but doesn't want to give up rear fill and bridging left and right 7inch speakers. He doesn't have enough channels.
I've been looking at the d-5.1200 for a a while . The only thing I would call a deal breaker is the ability to add their epicenter. If there is a way to add that that would end my worries.
How is it in terms of sound quality? Can it be compared to something I know, like HELIX P SIX DSP MK2? Is there only 12dB/oct and 24dB/oct? And the others? What about time correction? Which connection method can be used with android multimedia? It is important that the sound is not processed from android. How to connect then? By bluetooth? No optics? With optics it's like a clean signal as far as I know. I don't understand English very well, so please forgive any inaccuracies. Thank you
I am planning all my upgrades for my 2020 pathfinder, it has tweeters in the dash, 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5 in the rear doors. I have new speakers for the 3 locations and a single 4 ch amp so I’d need another amp for one of the locations, I’m leaning towards the d-6.1200
My main issue is enough sub output with amps like this. You wont get a full 1200w channel. So you are kind of limited in that area. Personally im tight on space also so i go with smalled mini d class amps so i still have room for a add on dsp.
My question is. Can you use an existing DSP amp in a system that has another high quality amp and a separate larger stand alone DSP? All Audison equipment.
Can you do a video (or have you done already?) About the pros and cons of signal summing from a factory amp with a DSP versus using an oem integration solution like Nav-TV zen-v + a DSP. In other words, using a DSP vs. a Zen-v + a DSP? Is there a reason to spend the extra ~$1000 in the case of a Nav-TV zen-v instead of using the DSP software to sum and correct the factory output
Question: I have a Cadillac ATS with the 10 speaker Bose (I know...) system. I'm going to replace the speakers. bypass the ANC mics, add a sub and amp in the trunk and remove the paper plate. I'm going to leave the head as is. I have an LC-2i LOC for the sub. Do I need a DSP for everything else?
Is there a way to adjust or control the dsp without firing up a laptop? Is there an android or ios app? Can the dsp settings be adjusted in real time so you can hear the changes immediately?
the real question is, which one do i need for my hot air balloon build? 😉👍🏻 In all seriousness i have the 608 that i’ll be using the AC-BT24 to interface with, have you done a video on that little unit?
I'm planning on upgrading my 2022 Tesla Model 3 Long Range sound system with 2 D-6.1200 and the lc-1.800 for subwoofer. Only concern is power requirements. Do you have any recommendations for a local shop near Seattle?
Can you help me pick a dsp that’ll work best with my set up?? I have 2 12s kicker comp rs with w 6.5s and 2 6x9s with my speakers hooked up to their own amp and my subs on another
I'm not seeing digital connections between the DSP and the amplifier: Toslink. Fiber optics. How is the digital signal not being converted back to analog?
What I'm trying to decide is if I need a DSP. I'm adding a HU that has a DSP built in but I already have a AudioControl DM-810 so I can go either way. The HU actually has a really good DSP. The part I'm trying to figure out is how much would I gain from using active crossovers vs. passive crossovers. If I go active with the DM-810 then I need two 4 channel amps plus a mono amp for the subs. But if I go with a 5-channel amp and use the DSP in the HU I simplify the wiring dramatically. Will I get the sound quality I'm after though, that's the question. My equipment is; simple system Teyes CC3 6GB/ 128GB HU, Sony XM-5ES amp 100w x 4 at 4 ohms + 750w x 1 at 2 ohms, two pair of Sony XS-162ES 6.5" component speakers and two JL Audio 10TW3-D8 subwoofers in a 2018 Chevy Colorado Crew cab or complex same HU and speakers but instead of the 5-channel amp two 4-channel amps and a sub amp. Also add the DM-810. Great system either way but more control with the second option. I should note that I go for quality sound over loud. This system should actually do both. Just looking for votes on which way to go.
I have 2 jl amps. 1 for my subs and 1 for my jl c1s in the doors. I would probably go with the stand alone dsp because i dont want one of my amps to go to waste lol.
Running RCA's from the stock head unit kinda defeats the purpose of the DSP doesn't it? Especially if your running an fiber optical cable from the stock head unit. A stand alone DSP is the way to go
Mark.... I live in New Zealand. It is here any representative for Audio Control devices? Other question, in case of buy it from US. It should be from you or front the audio control web site? Where I can see different configuration. I have doubt with amplifiers connection. Thanks
Mark, I picked up a d 4.800 for a great price. I currently run an active setup with the dm-810, but I want to switch my highs amp to the d 4.800. Can I use both?
Hey mark. I wanted to ask you what you think would be a good solution for my system. I bought three Focal Utopia 3.5km mids (for two kick panels and one center dash), Four 6.5km K2 M Power series woofers (front doors and rear doors), 2 K2 Power FRAKs (upper tweeters for front doors). I unfortunately purchased these speakers before learning enough about what I am going to need for the entire system. I bought a Helix Ultra to be able to manage these new speakers but im sort of stuck... (spent a small fortune on these speakers and while hindsight is always 20/20, Im very afraid of making a wrong move) I have crossovers supplied by focal I plan on using but I'm having a hard time figuring what kind of amp to run for these speakers. I am a very capable diyer but my ambition got the best of me...i guess i blame it on my ability to program keys/igntion switches/tcus on mercedes... and having an old set of two rear 12" Fosgate P3D2s from 2012 in my 2004 E55 AMG. I was planning to keep my two subs powered by my current amp (hifonics brutus elite). I thought how hard could a sound system be, but boy was I wrong. I know this is a hell of an ask. But I thought if anyone knew it would be you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Hi, if I replaced the stock speakers (fronts seem louder than rears) and added a Powered 12 in Kicker sub, can I still use this to power the front and rear? without damaging the Kicker Powered sub? thanks
Now I want upgrade my speakers and add subwoofer with amplifier Must be bay dsp or line output converter? What the difference between dap or loc Amp is niessory what the jop for dsp ??????
Are there any issues with hooking up both a d4-800 and a d6-1200? I ask because I am having issues getting a signal from the d-4. Power is getting to it
What is the power distribution block you're using with the brief view of the AC/JL system you've shown? I found some on Amazon from unknown brand... Maybe you have a link to get one from one of your go-to brands of better quality?
Love your videos. I live in South Florida and I’m wondering if you offer a complete “tuning” service for pre existing setups? I have a Kicker CXA 1800.1 , Kicker 2 L7S12’s enclosure, and an LC2i. Wanting to have that all setup and “tuned” Thank You
I posted the following comment on your video, "Top 5 DSP Misconceptions", then found this video, but I'm still not sure which route to go. After watching this video, I am leaning towards the integrated option rather than separate DSP+Amp, but would still appreciate some advice. Thanks! I have a question as I am looking for information regarding the standalone AudioControl DM-608 DSP + an external 6-channel amp vs. the AudioControl D-6.1200 DSP integrated amp. I need a 6-channel amp for mids/highs and a 1-channel amp for 2 subs. Please note: I have one chance to get this installation right, so I appreciate your feedback and recommendations. Audio quality and fidelity is my focus, but like most others, I want to end up with a system that can get very loud, hit very hard and deep, but stay as clean as possible. Audio signal source will be 'speaker level', from my stock Mercedes console. *It's a new vehicle and do not want to throw out integrated system and screen. Budget is NOT unlimited, so please keep that in mind with any advice. *I am sure there are 'better' choices on amps and speakers than what I have listed. I am open to suggestions, within reason. So... Which option should I buy and why?? Option 1: AudioControl DM-608 + JL Audio XD600/6v2 + Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP or Option 2: AudioControl D-6.1200 + Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP Option 3: ??? Am losing anything with the integrated DSP vs. stand-alone DSP or visa versa?? Price is nearly identical between the two options. The JL amp is a bit low on RMS power for speaker choice. 6 x 75W RMS @ 4ohms. The AudioControl amp is a bit high power RMS. 6 x 125W RMS @ 4ohms. Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP - 1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms *Current component speakers are 3.5-ohms, handling 100 watts RMS (400 watts peak) My current speakers: 3 pairs of Infinity Kappa Perfect 600 6.5" component speakers 2 Rockford Fosgate Power T1D210 Subs (I may run 2 - Power T1D212 rather than 10s, but undecided. Space available is allocated location for proper size cabinet may be an issue) This is being installed in a 4x4 customer built Sprinter Van used for various short and long term adventures. I have space to make a few adjustments if needed, but it is not unlimited due to the appliances required for #VanLife living. For those interested in additional details that should help audio performance inside and out of the van: The component speakers will be installed in front (doors/dash), mid and rear zones of the van. Subs will be installed in customer ported cabinets. Subs will either be side or down down firing, just behind midline of van. Rockford subs set to 1-Ohm each, run in series, Rockford amp will see 2-ohm load. The van is fully lined with dynomat and densely insulated with Havelock wool and 3M Thinsulate. Thank You!!!
Good video. I’m thinking of running a D-5 for doors and dash speakers and sub and a ACM-2 for the rear doors. Hoping it will fit under the passenger side seat. It’s for a 2022 Kia k5 GT line with out Bose
Or I do have a Skar audio five channel amplifier sitting which I just took out my other car sitting, but if I do that with standalone DSP module, I can set the front & rear channels, flat on the amplifier, but for sub I can’t any pointers on that if I decide to go this way.
I believe the current status of the audio control DM series is that they're junk. They don't sell them anywhere no one carries them and everyone on the line reports that they're having tremendous problems with them. What's up with that audio control?
i do not like all in one solutions in car audio. i prefer 4ch - mono or dsp and amp separate for example. it just makes future integration and repair easier down the road. i also do not like audiocontrol DSP software. however their latest updates seem to have improved things. my go to is either audison Bit one or mosconi aerospace.
I don’t believe the all-in-one amps have the option port so you can’t use the BT24. This may be important to some people. I have a BT24 and it introduces a pulsing-type noise into the system so I don’t use it anyway.
You might have a ground loop or the ground mode isn’t correct if it’s AC. My bass knob that came w my LC2i Pro introduced noise to the system, but not the cheap one that came with my Skar subs. Just weird stuff sometimes man. A bunch of companies also make ground isolators. Not everything needs to be AC, they sell old tech for a lot. A class D amp from them is unreasonable for the power/$.
Hey Mark! Thanks for the awesome vids.. I purchased a Dm-810 and I can’t set the acubass up properly.. I run the system from the factory head unit and as I turn up the volume it’s never has enough bass and I have 2 10’ subs so should be much louder.. could you do a video on that maybe😊? Thanks D
The "Threshold" is intuitively backwards, to me. Set the threshold to the left meaning no threshold then set the level progressively to the right. It should show "Active".
Budget and space will be deciding factors there . If you have the space and the funds , definitely go with a stand alone DSP . If you are on a tight budget and / or very limited on space , the DSP integrated amp is the better choice , even though you are sacrificing some flexibility and functionality . The digital inputs really are not that big of a deal since very few source units even now , have digital optical or rf outputs . They are awesome , but , rare . I got of the mobile audio game when the first DSPs were coming out . Crossovers and filters were common things along with summed outputs , making stand alone crossovers obsolete in many instances . Different time for sure then . There were several awesome publications then with writers who did a hell of a lot of reviews and testing , and head to head shootouts with speakers , amps , headunits , etc ... Not a lot of that stuff anymore . Williston , HiFi Vega , etc , still do amp testing and reviews , but , finding more or less dependable reviews and testing in mainstream media is mostly a thing of the past . Of course , a 1,000 watt amp in those days cost a hell of a lot more than they do now . So the post Golden Age realities are nowhere near as bad as some make it out to be . Still , I love the old A/B amps . They are VERY hard to beat for SQ , even if the class D stuff has come a long way from just being a second rate sub only amp .
hi, mark. for someone who just wants a nice system, the built-in is the way to go. however, for a tinkerer and perfectionist (like me), the stand-alone makes more sense. side note: mark, since you interact with AC a lot, perhaps you could nudge them a bit about doing what seems obvious to me: putting the "epicenter" circuitry into their DSPs. thanx.
Could anyone comment on why I get shrill high pitch ear hurting sound on high tone cymbals or high pitched singer after upgrading speakers and adding amp to my factory system? New amp is connected to the high output of factory amp. Work was done by professional installer who has no clue about what I am talking about. Thx a bunch.
New speakers are more efficient or designed in a way that the highs are more sharp. This is why a DSP should be used, to tune the system to a target and then adjust to personal preference.
@@CarAudioFabrication thanks for the prompt response. The Kicker Key amp that is used has auto DSP tune that I have used several times to no avail. Kicker recommends using external car audio equalizer. Hope this will do it. 🤞
Hey buddy! I have an idea for a triple sub build, I’ll be using a 10”, 12”, and 15” sub, all ct sounds. What would you recommend as of style of the box itself, I’d realistically would like a bandwidth enclosure while also sealing each box away from each other. I’m also not sure if I should wire eat one individually or wire them together at 2 ohms. I’m worried I won’t be able to tune them perfectly and have them running the hertz for every bass frequency possible.
Easy to say the true. ¿ you want music for you or you want music for every body. ??? The diferencie is the power. 4 amplifiers. Made the difference at one amplifier. Is like that. !!!!!!!
I think the 5 channel dsp amp is great for people looking to do 1 or 2 subs max and power all the speakers as well. Definitely nice to have it all in one package.
Definitely my plan if my vehicle ever arrives
I agree! The five channel dsp amp hits the sweet spot for 99% of us!
That's right.... Mosconi Pico dsp is awesome.
At this point I just hit like and watch. This man does not miss. Thanks for sharing Mark.
Thanks for the feedback, expect more videos soon send a direct message I have something special for you ☑️
I def don't hate on anyone buying an amp with a built in dsp but having done that myself I found I was stuck with that amp. In order to upgrade to bigger amps I had to buy a stand alone dm-608. That's the way I recommend folks go but honestly. Either unit is fantastic
There's an application for both. If you're really limited on space or you want a super simple setup go with the DSP integrated amp. Unfortunately most are manufactured with a class D amp. If you want something other than class D, you want total control of your system, and have the space then separate DSP is what you need
Good point, but Class D isn't as "bad" as many like to elude to.
@@CarAudioFabrication it's really not but everyone has their preference. I don't think anyone can actually identify a class D just by listening to it
D-5.1300 was perfect for my 3-wheeler (Vanderhall Carmel). Hertz Mille Legend 3-way + Kicker 8” Q-Class
@P C so if someone was doing a demo for you on a class D system but you had no idea what sort of equipment he was running you'd be able to know it's class D?
@@vbenton11 may I know the price of the hertz speaker and the kickers as well ? Seems to be some high end audio you got there
Best to invest in a DSP brand with the best software available. Arguably the most important feature about a DSP. Integrated amplifier or otherwise....
Agreed! Helix or Audio Control for me!
THIS!… and software updates that don’t break functionality. Software that cannot reliably connect to the DSP would be frustrating. Per various forums, AudioControl has run hot and cold for connectivity through the years. I don’t know as much about Audiotec-Fischer’s software. Their DSP-PC-Tool is Windows 10/11 only. AudioControl has a Mac software app but I read it is not as robust as the Windows version.
I did not run any of them yet but I will certainly do so before making a DSP purchase.
I did a bit of 'future proofing' by getting getting an Audison AF C8.14 DSP/AMP. Love it!
That’s one of the best. They have this crazy tuning device with the microphones that some Audison installers have. Did you get it tune through their special software !?
I am using a D6.1200 in a 2008 Ford Fusion. It is running my front stage and 2 Infinity 10” Kappa’s. My front stage is a pair of Dayton RS180P-4’s and a pair of SB Acoustics SB65WBAC25-4’s. I really like the system. My only regret is that I started thinking about adding differential rear fill. I would need more channels and a DSP that can create a differential signal. As much as I love the all-in-one concept of the D6.1200, it does have its upgrade limitations.
Thanks for the feedback, expect more videos soon send a direct message I have something special for you✅
I personally went with a built In DSP amp by kicker for front stage speakers, radio powering rear door speakers, and a built in 10" sub for under seat in my frontier. Solid 450 watt system.
Which one
Can u share details please
@@nepausu2ber604😂
I feel DSP built into an amp has really one advantage not many mention, but also depending on the manufacturer could make or break a deal. My setup is overkill, but I’m rebuilding for 2 VX1000.5i units optical from a fix82 with the VXi hub. My plan is full active front stage 3way, using the subwoofer output from the amp for my door subs, channel1 tweet, channel2 high bass midrange, channel3 rear door full range, channel4 rear 3way speaker pods passive build, but one amp left, one amp right. Each amp has 2 pre-out’s adjustable by selecting your desired setting. So it gives me 4 pre-outs adjustable for anything I want. A set for sub, a set full range for pass through signal test, or just all 4 sub output. Now what I think makes the amp and DSP combo greater, is the option for higher signal voltage than what some DSP units limit you to. Like SPL builds that require high and clean signal voltage across voltage drop. Yes you can add a line driver after a DSP, but that can add noise to your signal, or with some, cut off your frequency range. Plus it is an additional unit you have to install.
Thanks for the feedback, expect more videos soon send a direct message I have something special for you ☑️
You could achieve most of this with a Helix V Twelve and sub amp of your choice.
You have 12 amplified channels to do whatever you want and 14 DSP channels to again do whatever you want. All in one package.
Mark you are excellent !
No offense to AudioControl, but I would suggest Helix M6DSP or M4DSP are the most bang for the buck in terms of quality and features.
Each of those DSP amps's have 10 channels of processing with 6 and 4 powerd channels respectively, i think they give so many options to configure.
I´m waiting for the Black Friday price drop and I´m at the point to go for a Helix M6DSP
Do they have a nice software like Audiocontrol which makes it easy to tune !?
@@MowSow
I give ease of operation to AudioControl.
No one has to wrote codes in Helix either😀.
Once you get the hang of any software or if you see some how to youtube videos no software is hard and Helix Latest software has improved on the ease of use and for anyone to get the best out of any system its Helix!
Once again I do not have anything against Audio Control, I would to see AC make a better software than Helix
@@rajasekhar9840 I’m personally a huge fan of Audison the Italian Ferrari of amps and that’s the DSP Amp I am planning on getting, it might more pricy than Helix but it’s surely top quality and their tuning software is out of this world, but only Audison dealers have access to the tuning gizmos with the fancy microphones
Can you tune the Helix yourself?
@@MowSow
Audison or Helix
Irrespective of who tunes, they require two things - a microphone and laptop, that's it in terms of hardware.
But key thing is how to get the tuning right which gets the max out of your system and you actually hear the max potential of your system.
I would suggest you to find some one who competes in an SQ class and take their support, that should be great
I went with the amp+dsp built in. I'm running the Kenwood XR6006 dsp. Super easy to set up and I can do all my adjustments with the Bluetooth built in. I would eventually like to upgrade my sub amp though. Running the jp8 but I'd like to match to the Kenwood.
My vote would go to a head unit with a DSP built in. Kind of like the Pioneer Stage 4 Reference stuff. The one that comes to mind would be the DEX-P99RS. You can make adjustments without having to connect to a laptop. All within reach. I'm not even sure they make head units with DSP capabilities anymore.
That DEX-P99rs is Fantastic!!!! I have enjoyed it so much that I purchased a second one as a back up before they stopped making them.
I think the "network mode" Pioneers are fantastic but more and more you can't replace the factory HU with an aftermarket HU.
I plan to go with the D5.1300 for the build in my Blazer. I chose that for simplicity and mainly because I don't want to see any equipment after I am done and only really have room for 1 amp. I do unfortunately feel like I am having to make a slight compromise. I really wish AudioControl made a 7 channel DSP amp so that I could run an active front stage instead of have to choose between running passive crossovers up front or rear fill off the factory amp. I still prefer to make that compromise over going with more equipment and having to mount it in an area where it would be seen.
DSP amplifier would be the best for me
Hey cool! This is the exact question I asked for new video ideas in the forum the other day. Awesome!!!! Thanks Mark!
Rand 😮
I prefer having my DSP separate. As Mark touched on, it gives the ability and opportunity to change things up down the road without having to reconfigure the dsp all over again.
You nailed it! I will be on my 3rd subwoofer amp soon. I started out with a SounDigital 3k, then a 5k, and next is the JP23v2.
@@RodofAllTrades why so many sub amps
@@mustangdemon87 I underestimated the needs of my 13W7 and I am going back to half bridge amplifier. SounDigital has an interesting product though. I'm just not a fan of its higher than average operating temperature or its behavior at and beyond its limits. Going with a Down 4 Sound JP23v2 instead.
@@RodofAllTrades ah okay. I always buy the next biggest rms amp then I need. If it's getting hot your pulling to much from it.
@@mustangdemon87 pulling too much? I have clamped my sub and my 5500 watt amp is only doing 1500. Amp is rated to do 5575 at 2 ohms with 14.4v. I have the big 3, all 1/0 sky high OFC, 92 AH of AGM and a 10 Farad cap. I am currently running my sub's coils in series at 3 ohms and with box rise, I am sitting at 4.8 ohms. If I run the coils in parallel at .75 ohms, the amp goes into protect because its protection circuit measures DC resistance first. This would happen, even if I had the 1 ohm version. So I did some research and the JP23 v2 should do what I need. You have to understand that different types of amplifiers behave differently and most full-bridge brazillian designs run warm at idle and low power. I can rail on my SounDigital and it never reaches a burning hot temperature. Word of advice to you: before making statements against someone, ask questions first. Otherwise, you're just making assumptions. I DON'T KNOW IT ALL, but I have been into car audio for 32 years. I try and learn something new whenever I can and trying new and different products helps me to achieve that goal.
Another great video....I had use other brands DSP'S until I start following #CarAudioFabrication & I learned about #AudioControl DSP'S....instant game changer & I will never look back....I'm presently using the AudioControl DM-810 & for my purpose I wish it had 12 channels instead of 10....Would help with me going fully active by not using passive crossover....mono the stereo output....using the pass Thru on the amps or even thinking about using two DSP'S....as I don't have the space. 🇯🇲
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Bottom line, DSP amps are for people that know what they will want and generally not interested in experimenting.
Another thing to maybe consider is breakdowns and the speed of technology. D class amplifiers have come a long way. If we use a DSP amp, we are kinda stuck with it. Stand-alone we can upgrade and trade out pieces. Also, like mentioned, you are forced into having less channels with DSP amps. A kid I worked with had the amazing Helix V8. Then he heard my setup that uses 10 channels for a 2.1 setup. He wants to try 3 way active but doesn't want to give up rear fill and bridging left and right 7inch speakers. He doesn't have enough channels.
I have the ddx57s (I wasn't trying to go crazy) with the x802-5 pushing a set of kfc 651 & kfc 691 & p -W3041S
I've been looking at the d-5.1200 for a a while . The only thing I would call a deal breaker is the ability to add their epicenter. If there is a way to add that that would end my worries.
Awesome Informotive Video 👍🏻👍🏻
How is it in terms of sound quality? Can it be compared to something I know, like HELIX P SIX DSP MK2? Is there only 12dB/oct and 24dB/oct? And the others? What about time correction? Which connection method can be used with android multimedia? It is important that the sound is not processed from android. How to connect then? By bluetooth? No optics? With optics it's like a clean signal as far as I know. I don't understand English very well, so please forgive any inaccuracies. Thank you
I tell ya I like these vids but I love the fabrication video's better. Would love to see some wood shaping again.
Great video how will you hook up a dap amplifier and a aftermarket radio
I was just wondering this, I just ordered one with dsp built in because I hate having amps on show and don't have room otherwise
I am planning all my upgrades for my 2020 pathfinder, it has tweeters in the dash, 6x9 in the front doors and 6.5 in the rear doors. I have new speakers for the 3 locations and a single 4 ch amp so I’d need another amp for one of the locations, I’m leaning towards the d-6.1200
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My main issue is enough sub output with amps like this. You wont get a full 1200w channel. So you are kind of limited in that area. Personally im tight on space also so i go with smalled mini d class amps so i still have room for a add on dsp.
My question is. Can you use an existing DSP amp in a system that has another high quality amp and a separate larger stand alone DSP? All Audison equipment.
Can you do a video (or have you done already?) About the pros and cons of signal summing from a factory amp with a DSP versus using an oem integration solution like Nav-TV zen-v + a DSP. In other words, using a DSP vs. a Zen-v + a DSP? Is there a reason to spend the extra ~$1000 in the case of a Nav-TV zen-v instead of using the DSP software to sum and correct the factory output
I would like to watch you set up and tune a system on a Can Am Spyder.
Sooo which audio control unit should one buy. Hmmm
Very well explained. Can you also make a video on Audison Bit ten DSP and Audison 8.9 Amp with built-in DSP
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Question: I have a Cadillac ATS with the 10 speaker Bose (I know...) system. I'm going to replace the speakers. bypass the ANC mics, add a sub and amp in the trunk and remove the paper plate. I'm going to leave the head as is. I have an LC-2i LOC for the sub. Do I need a DSP for everything else?
When my system has an audio processor (DSP) should I “always” stop using physical crossovers?
Is there a way to adjust or control the dsp without firing up a laptop? Is there an android or ios app? Can the dsp settings be adjusted in real time so you can hear the changes immediately?
i’m going to be using the AC-BT24 module on my 608 for tuning and streaming
the real question is, which one do i need for my hot air balloon build? 😉👍🏻
In all seriousness i have the 608 that i’ll be using the AC-BT24 to interface with, have you done a video on that little unit?
I have the BT24 and it introduces noise into the system. Maybe they don’t all do that, but mine does so I don’t use it.
@@jeffpessemier9802 that’s not good, here’s hoping mine plays nice
@@jeffpessemier9802 Jeff Bezos 😮
I'm looking at the Alpine Alpine PXE-C80-88 to enhance my factory system in my Ridgeline. Is that a decent unit?
I'm planning on upgrading my 2022 Tesla Model 3 Long Range sound system with 2 D-6.1200 and the lc-1.800 for subwoofer. Only concern is power requirements. Do you have any recommendations for a local shop near Seattle?
Can you help me pick a dsp that’ll work best with my set up?? I have 2 12s kicker comp rs with w 6.5s and 2 6x9s with my speakers hooked up to their own amp and my subs on another
Which amplifier is best to run front two components (JBL gyi 609c) and rear two coaxial (jbl) speakers for good sounds
Please suggest 🙏
How much car audio DẞP
I'm not seeing digital connections between the DSP and the amplifier: Toslink. Fiber optics. How is the digital signal not being converted back to analog?
What I'm trying to decide is if I need a DSP. I'm adding a HU that has a DSP built in but I already have a AudioControl DM-810 so I can go either way. The HU actually has a really good DSP. The part I'm trying to figure out is how much would I gain from using active crossovers vs. passive crossovers. If I go active with the DM-810 then I need two 4 channel amps plus a mono amp for the subs. But if I go with a 5-channel amp and use the DSP in the HU I simplify the wiring dramatically. Will I get the sound quality I'm after though, that's the question. My equipment is; simple system Teyes CC3 6GB/ 128GB HU, Sony XM-5ES amp 100w x 4 at 4 ohms + 750w x 1 at 2 ohms, two pair of Sony XS-162ES 6.5" component speakers and two JL Audio 10TW3-D8 subwoofers in a 2018 Chevy Colorado Crew cab or complex same HU and speakers but instead of the 5-channel amp two 4-channel amps and a sub amp. Also add the DM-810. Great system either way but more control with the second option. I should note that I go for quality sound over loud. This system should actually do both. Just looking for votes on which way to go.
Does these have the option to edit reverb as well as echo
What about stereo with dsp in a boat. Like fusion or jl audio? Then adding amp with dsp? Cant get my boat sounding clean.
I would rather have amp and DSP built together but since I already have my SOund digital amps I did a stand along DSP 🎃
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Do those amps provide a voltage boost like running an LOC? I know the DSPs do but was wondering if the amps do as well?
I have 2 jl amps. 1 for my subs and 1 for my jl c1s in the doors. I would probably go with the stand alone dsp because i dont want one of my amps to go to waste lol.
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I HAVE 2024 GMC SIERRA WOULD I BE BETTER OFF GOING WITH THE BUILT IN DSP AMPLIFIER . I BELEAVE THAT I CAN'T CHNAGE OUT THE OEM HEAD UNIT
Running RCA's from the stock head unit kinda defeats the purpose of the DSP doesn't it? Especially if your running an fiber optical cable from the stock head unit. A stand alone DSP is the way to go
Mark.... I live in New Zealand. It is here any representative for Audio Control devices? Other question, in case of buy it from US. It should be from you or front the audio control web site? Where I can see different configuration. I have doubt with amplifiers connection. Thanks
Mark, I picked up a d 4.800 for a great price. I currently run an active setup with the dm-810, but I want to switch my highs amp to the d 4.800. Can I use both?
what if i have a built in dsp into my head unit so which is better a stand alone dsp or my head unit ?
im looking at a system for my tacoma 2023, debating on separate DSP or JL Vxi series.
Hey mark. I wanted to ask you what you think would be a good solution for my system. I bought three Focal Utopia 3.5km mids (for two kick panels and one center dash), Four 6.5km K2 M Power series woofers (front doors and rear doors), 2 K2 Power FRAKs (upper tweeters for front doors). I unfortunately purchased these speakers before learning enough about what I am going to need for the entire system. I bought a Helix Ultra to be able to manage these new speakers but im sort of stuck... (spent a small fortune on these speakers and while hindsight is always 20/20, Im very afraid of making a wrong move) I have crossovers supplied by focal I plan on using but I'm having a hard time figuring what kind of amp to run for these speakers. I am a very capable diyer but my ambition got the best of me...i guess i blame it on my ability to program keys/igntion switches/tcus on mercedes... and having an old set of two rear 12" Fosgate P3D2s from 2012 in my 2004 E55 AMG. I was planning to keep my two subs powered by my current amp (hifonics brutus elite). I thought how hard could a sound system be, but boy was I wrong. I know this is a hell of an ask. But I thought if anyone knew it would be you. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I drive a 2016 Honda Civic EAX I’m looking for an aftermarket lane assist lane departure system. Is there anything like that in the market?
Hi, if I replaced the stock speakers (fronts seem louder than rears) and added a Powered 12 in Kicker sub, can I still use this to power the front and rear? without damaging the Kicker Powered sub? thanks
What source unit has optical out?
Thanks for videos Mark =D
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Now I want upgrade my speakers and add subwoofer with amplifier
Must be bay dsp or line output converter?
What the difference between dap or loc
Amp is niessory what the jop for dsp ??????
Hi Mark, great info! Do you have the specs available for a 4 sub box for a Chevy 3500 like the box you built with the 4 JL Audio 10's for the F150?
Have you ever built a system using Swedish brand DLS?
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Are there any issues with hooking up both a d4-800 and a d6-1200? I ask because I am having issues getting a signal from the d-4. Power is getting to it
But about if dsp amplifier have 12 in ,12 out, all the same options have stand alone dsp have dsp amplifier than what to choose?
What is the power distribution block you're using with the brief view of the AC/JL system you've shown? I found some on Amazon from unknown brand... Maybe you have a link to get one from one of your go-to brands of better quality?
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Love your videos. I live in South Florida and I’m wondering if you offer a complete “tuning” service for pre existing setups?
I have a Kicker CXA 1800.1 , Kicker 2 L7S12’s enclosure, and an LC2i.
Wanting to have that all setup and “tuned”
Thank You
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I posted the following comment on your video, "Top 5 DSP Misconceptions", then found this video, but I'm still not sure which route to go.
After watching this video, I am leaning towards the integrated option rather than separate DSP+Amp, but would still appreciate some advice.
Thanks!
I have a question as I am looking for information regarding the standalone AudioControl DM-608 DSP + an external 6-channel amp vs. the AudioControl D-6.1200 DSP integrated amp.
I need a 6-channel amp for mids/highs and a 1-channel amp for 2 subs.
Please note: I have one chance to get this installation right, so I appreciate your feedback and recommendations.
Audio quality and fidelity is my focus, but like most others, I want to end up with a system that can get very loud, hit very hard and deep, but stay as clean as possible.
Audio signal source will be 'speaker level', from my stock Mercedes console.
*It's a new vehicle and do not want to throw out integrated system and screen.
Budget is NOT unlimited, so please keep that in mind with any advice.
*I am sure there are 'better' choices on amps and speakers than what I have listed.
I am open to suggestions, within reason.
So...
Which option should I buy and why??
Option 1:
AudioControl DM-608 + JL Audio XD600/6v2 + Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP
or Option 2:
AudioControl D-6.1200 + Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP
Option 3:
???
Am losing anything with the integrated DSP vs. stand-alone DSP or visa versa??
Price is nearly identical between the two options.
The JL amp is a bit low on RMS power for speaker choice. 6 x 75W RMS @ 4ohms.
The AudioControl amp is a bit high power RMS. 6 x 125W RMS @ 4ohms.
Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP - 1,000 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
*Current component speakers are 3.5-ohms, handling 100 watts RMS (400 watts peak)
My current speakers:
3 pairs of Infinity Kappa Perfect 600 6.5" component speakers
2 Rockford Fosgate Power T1D210 Subs
(I may run 2 - Power T1D212 rather than 10s, but undecided. Space available is allocated location for proper size cabinet may be an issue)
This is being installed in a 4x4 customer built Sprinter Van used for various short and long term adventures.
I have space to make a few adjustments if needed, but it is not unlimited due to the appliances required for #VanLife living.
For those interested in additional details that should help audio performance inside and out of the van:
The component speakers will be installed in front (doors/dash), mid and rear zones of the van.
Subs will be installed in customer ported cabinets.
Subs will either be side or down down firing, just behind midline of van.
Rockford subs set to 1-Ohm each, run in series, Rockford amp will see 2-ohm load.
The van is fully lined with dynomat and densely insulated with Havelock wool and 3M Thinsulate.
Thank You!!!
What is the difference between D-6.1200 and LC-6.1200, I thought both had built in DSP are they not?
Only the D series have built-in DSP. The LC has built-in LOC hence LC
Good video. I’m thinking of running a D-5 for doors and dash speakers and sub and a ACM-2 for the rear doors. Hoping it will fit under the passenger side seat. It’s for a 2022 Kia k5 GT line with out Bose
Or I do have a Skar audio five channel amplifier sitting which I just took out my other car sitting, but if I do that with standalone DSP module, I can set the front & rear channels, flat on the amplifier, but for sub I can’t any pointers on that if I decide to go this way.
@@slimatmim Hello 👋
@@LauRoot892 hi
I believe the current status of the audio control DM series is that they're junk. They don't sell them anywhere no one carries them and everyone on the line reports that they're having tremendous problems with them. What's up with that audio control?
Mark I have a Pioneer DEX-P99RS head unit with 4 amps. Will a DSP make it sound better? Will I get better tuning with the DSP.
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i do not like all in one solutions in car audio. i prefer 4ch - mono or dsp and amp separate for example. it just makes future integration and repair easier down the road. i also do not like audiocontrol DSP software. however their latest updates seem to have improved things. my go to is either audison Bit one or mosconi aerospace.
So what’s the advantage of using a optical input vs rca?
@@jordanhays732 day 🌞 and night 🌙
I don’t believe the all-in-one amps have the option port so you can’t use the BT24. This may be important to some people. I have a BT24 and it introduces a pulsing-type noise into the system so I don’t use it anyway.
You might have a ground loop or the ground mode isn’t correct if it’s AC. My bass knob that came w my LC2i Pro introduced noise to the system, but not the cheap one that came with my Skar subs. Just weird stuff sometimes man. A bunch of companies also make ground isolators. Not everything needs to be AC, they sell old tech for a lot. A class D amp from them is unreasonable for the power/$.
Hey Mark! Thanks for the awesome vids.. I purchased a Dm-810 and I can’t set the acubass up properly.. I run the system from the factory head unit and as I turn up the volume it’s never has enough bass and I have 2 10’ subs so should be much louder.. could you do a video on that maybe😊? Thanks D
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The "Threshold" is intuitively backwards, to me. Set the threshold to the left meaning no threshold then set the level progressively to the right. It should show "Active".
I use a alpine halo, it has a dsp what is your opinion of the dsp?
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MUSWAY M12 is good to go?
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Budget and space will be deciding factors there .
If you have the space and the funds , definitely go with a stand alone DSP .
If you are on a tight budget and / or very limited on space , the DSP integrated amp is the better choice , even though you are sacrificing some flexibility and functionality .
The digital inputs really are not that big of a deal since very few source units even now , have digital optical or rf outputs .
They are awesome , but , rare .
I got of the mobile audio game when the first DSPs were coming out .
Crossovers and filters were common things along with summed outputs , making stand alone crossovers obsolete in many instances .
Different time for sure then .
There were several awesome publications then with writers who did a hell of a lot of reviews and testing , and head to head shootouts with speakers , amps , headunits , etc ...
Not a lot of that stuff anymore .
Williston , HiFi Vega , etc , still do amp testing and reviews , but , finding more or less dependable reviews and testing in mainstream media is mostly a thing of the past .
Of course , a 1,000 watt amp in those days cost a hell of a lot more than they do now .
So the post Golden Age realities are nowhere near as bad as some make it out to be .
Still , I love the old A/B amps .
They are VERY hard to beat for SQ , even if the class D stuff has come a long way from just being a second rate sub only amp .
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hi, mark. for someone who just wants a nice system, the built-in is the way to go. however, for a tinkerer and perfectionist (like me), the stand-alone makes more sense. side note: mark, since you interact with AC a lot, perhaps you could nudge them a bit about doing what seems obvious to me: putting the "epicenter" circuitry into their DSPs. thanx.
Let them have a better EQ first.
@@Cathul why not both?😃
@@davidtimmerman3121 because they are not able to provide either after all these years.
@@davidtimmerman3121 David 😮
@@Cathul meow!🤪
always shows audio control, show the helix ultra dsp!
The discussion in this video is dsp amp vs standalone dsp. Doesn't matter which brand I show the points are the same
What wrong with the DSP built into my aftermarket head unit??
I believe it gives you a more detailed control like 7 band vs 13 band eq, but I'm not an expert 🤷♂️
Could anyone comment on why I get shrill high pitch ear hurting sound on high tone cymbals or high pitched singer after upgrading speakers and adding amp to my factory system? New amp is connected to the high output of factory amp. Work was done by professional installer who has no clue about what I am talking about. Thx a bunch.
New speakers are more efficient or designed in a way that the highs are more sharp. This is why a DSP should be used, to tune the system to a target and then adjust to personal preference.
@@CarAudioFabrication thanks for the prompt response. The Kicker Key amp that is used has auto DSP tune that I have used several times to no avail. Kicker recommends using external car audio equalizer. Hope this will do it. 🤞
I always start with upgrading the headunit can't build without a solid foundation 🤷♂️
Hey buddy! I have an idea for a triple sub build, I’ll be using a 10”, 12”, and 15” sub, all ct sounds. What would you recommend as of style of the box itself, I’d realistically would like a bandwidth enclosure while also sealing each box away from each other. I’m also not sure if I should wire eat one individually or wire them together at 2 ohms. I’m worried I won’t be able to tune them perfectly and have them running the hertz for every bass frequency possible.
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Easy to say the true.
¿ you want music for you or you want music for every body. ???
The diferencie is the power.
4 amplifiers. Made the difference at one amplifier.
Is like that. !!!!!!!
I'm running a D-6.1200 and wish that I would have gotten the L-6.1200 and a DM-810 instead. If anyone wants to swap let me know....👍
Rock 🪨
I just don't want the additional weight that a stand alone DSP adds to my vehicle. I'm looking for ways to shed weight, not plonk down more and more.
Anyone looking for an eclipse 8454?
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1 street
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Nice
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Hello boss👋
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No DSP.
this all seems like a big pain lol
Dsp amp suck because after 2 half or 3 Year you gonna have problems or your dsp amp.... Is going to 🔥🔥🔥💔🥺 n no Warranty After 1 years... 💔🥺
thats what im considering a 5 channel audiocontrol or stick with my 5 channel infinity i just bought and buy audiocontrol 608
Class d no thanks….class a is what your looking for 😂
It's not 1985 anymore. Class D is solid