Personally, to tame that severe turn, I would reduce the stab tilt. Also, warping surfaces is not the best way to do things. Warps will not remain in the surfaces. Also, they often have the opposite effect than intended during launch because of aeroelasticity. Instead of warps, use 1/32” balsa strips as wash in or wash out wedges as needed. Once you glue them on, they stay put and the model will remain in trim regardless of conditions at your flying/competition sight. So there’s a few tips for those of you who found this looking for info on SO gliders. If you want more info, or need help getting your glider to perform, check out www.hippocketaeronautics.com There is an entire section in the builders’ forum dedicated to SO competition.
Glider dimensions (templates)Wingspan 12" or 30cm, wing chord 7 cm (wood is Balsa 3/32 thick with the camber sanded. ( I/16th thick wood is ok but not efficient in flight). This wing may lengthened or shortened or extra dihedral added to comply with wingspan rules. Fuselage 14" long x ¼" X 1/8" stiff balsa. Shark's tooth to hook rubber loop needs to match rules. Add to bottom of nose and then cross-laminate with 1/32" wood on both sides for strength. Fuselage may be shorter but never less than 110% the finished wingspan. Stabilizer- 76 mm x 2 mm X 1/32" thick balsa sanded to 1/64" on trailing edges (for easy flight trim adjustments) Fin- 24 mm X 24 mm X 1/32" thick sanded to 1/64 on trailing edges ("" "") Add clay ballast to nose only. Glider should balance approx. ½ the distance from the leading edge of the wing. Hope this helps,
Did the camera man run a mile before this
Personally, to tame that severe turn, I would reduce the stab tilt. Also, warping surfaces is not the best way to do things. Warps will not remain in the surfaces. Also, they often have the opposite effect than intended during launch because of aeroelasticity. Instead of warps, use 1/32” balsa strips as wash in or wash out wedges as needed. Once you glue them on, they stay put and the model will remain in trim regardless of conditions at your flying/competition sight.
So there’s a few tips for those of you who found this looking for info on SO gliders. If you want more info, or need help getting your glider to perform, check out www.hippocketaeronautics.com There is an entire section in the builders’ forum dedicated to SO competition.
just made a pretty big rubber band powered glider, i feel like a boss now
Thanks so much
this will definitely help!
Very Helpful Thank You.
Wow mine sucks so much
Glider dimensions (templates)Wingspan 12" or 30cm, wing chord 7 cm (wood is Balsa 3/32 thick with the camber sanded. ( I/16th thick wood is ok but not efficient in flight). This wing may lengthened or shortened or extra dihedral added to comply with wingspan rules. Fuselage 14" long x ¼" X 1/8" stiff balsa. Shark's tooth to hook rubber loop needs to match rules. Add to bottom of nose and then cross-laminate with 1/32" wood on both sides for strength. Fuselage may be shorter but never less than 110% the finished wingspan. Stabilizer- 76 mm x 2 mm X 1/32" thick balsa sanded to 1/64" on trailing edges (for easy flight trim adjustments) Fin- 24 mm X 24 mm X 1/32" thick sanded to 1/64 on trailing edges ("" "") Add clay ballast to nose only. Glider should balance approx. ½ the distance from the leading edge of the wing. Hope this helps,
tis is stoopied