Thank you for your video and helping to explain annealing in a way that I understand and there's very little information out there I appreciate it have a great day
Annealing temperature for borosilicate glass is 1050F which is well above the range of a conventional oven. A kiln is nothing other than a high temperature oven. Also, it is beneficial to have a digital controller, as many kilns have, to manage the duration and cool down process required for annealing.
Appreciate the video! I’ve been dealing with a crowd that says flame annealing is the way to go and everything I’ve gotten from this artist it breaks within a week. I plan on taking this info and fighting the fire🤣 you can’t argue with the facts. Have a great day👊🏻
great video! i did enjoy it :-) you can build yourself a small "garage" front-loader, for your worktable, so you can work in segments and build larger pieces. i built one, and it's so convinient. takes about 2 days to complete, no rush. i use a 1000W dimmer, connected to a 400W element , and another 400W element with a switch. the internal size of the chamber is app. 20cm X 20cm X 35 cm, the frax layer is about 10cm, +extra 5cm on top, and a 2cm firebrick floor, for heat retention.
god bless you. I feel so touched by the way the entire glass community has taken to me, though I must point out, that just as in glass, there are some far better than I at video. but I trully appriciate your friendship and respect.
Yes, you are correct. The time does increase exponentially with the thickness. Obviously I am taking a bit of a short cut and trade off and my larger pieces may not be fully annealled. Another thing I forgot to mention is that for closed hollow form work with internal glass you need to double the time too. I see you have been a busy guy lately. Looking forward to the 8 basic skills videos from you :-)
When the glass cools strain is introduced because the outside cools much faster than the core. Often the glass will crack as it cools below ~400F. If it happens to survive cooling it will be highly prone to breakage because of the strain within. Annealing removes the strain from the glass.
isnt the rate of cooling inversly proportional to the distance from the surface of the glass? I ask, because I have been working on the assumption that the soak time seems like it would be an exponentially increasing time with regard to thickness, because of the slow rate at which the glass can change temperature. perhaps my schedule is overkill.-) though, I did develop my schedule specifically to allow deep inclusion of problematic colors. THIS VIDEO ROCKS! so glad to see this and you again!
I have been crazy lately.-) I have imbeded this video in my blog opensourceglass, I hope thats cool, if not let me know and I will remove the post, but your video is the best one I have seen and I want to help people find it!-) and I keep trying to get the new website to look like something I actually like, funny thing is I really dont know what I really want my site to look like. but I am starting to like the growth and basic direction.-)
when you shape glass you are moving the molecules out of alignment. its like the earths tectonic plates, waiting for an earthquake. when you anneal glass you are allowing it to slowly cool to let its molecules realign. no more earthquakes
thanks a ton for the video, is there a way to contact you more directly?I only ask as im very seriously looking into starting a lamp working/glass blowing business and have many many questions! Thanks!
Another question I have is do you need to anneal it in a kiln? Couldn't you just anneal it in an oven or something? Or do you need to do it in a kiln? And if it has to be a kiln, why? And again thank you for answering my previous question.
I watch you put your rod directly in the flame in every video. I'm a beginner and I'm having a tough time making beads because half of my rods crack and spatter and throw bits of glass all around the moment I approach the torch....I'm confused...how come you can do that and your glass melts while mine explodes. I spend 5 minutes warming up the darn thing and it still explodes! Do you warm them up ahead of time? Or is it the quality of the glass? Help! Please! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us...
When you first put glass in the flame make sure your oxygen isn't turned up all the way and you are working with a flame that is neutral to reduced (more propane). I have my oxygen set around 5lpm when I put the glass in the flame, works just about every time I still start at the end of the flame though usually. Working with borosilicate glass is a good recommendation as well, I frequently stick it right into the center of the flame when the oxygen is up to 8lpm. Just speaking from personal experience, but I haven't had problems with this for a long time.
This is a great video, but I still don't understand why you need to anneal, what annealing is, and what it does. Why can't you just sell an un-annealed piece? Could you please explain why you need to anneal???
Thank you for your video and helping to explain annealing in a way that I understand and there's very little information out there I appreciate it have a great day
one hour at 1050 F, then another hour cooling from 1050 to 950 F. So, two hours total. Then leave it in the kiln to cool to room temp.
Annealing temperature for borosilicate glass is 1050F which is well above the range of a conventional oven. A kiln is nothing other than a high temperature oven. Also, it is beneficial to have a digital controller, as many kilns have, to manage the duration and cool down process required for annealing.
thanks for taking the time to make these videos, they have been really helpful in getting me up to speed in the studio
Great video as usual. Glad to see you back.
Appreciate the video! I’ve been dealing with a crowd that says flame annealing is the way to go and everything I’ve gotten from this artist it breaks within a week. I plan on taking this info and fighting the fire🤣 you can’t argue with the facts. Have a great day👊🏻
This is exactly the information I was looking for!
I like your clip ons, must get a pair of them,
also great vid, as always,
thank you.
glad to see you back
nice vid :)
thank you so much! I understand that much more now.
Thank you!
great video! i did enjoy it :-)
you can build yourself a small "garage" front-loader, for your worktable,
so you can work in segments and build larger pieces.
i built one, and it's so convinient.
takes about 2 days to complete, no rush.
i use a 1000W dimmer, connected to a 400W element , and another 400W element with a switch.
the internal size of the chamber is app.
20cm X 20cm X 35 cm, the frax layer is about 10cm, +extra 5cm on top,
and a 2cm firebrick floor, for heat retention.
god bless you. I feel so touched by the way the entire glass community has taken to me, though I must point out, that just as in glass, there are some far better than I at video. but I trully appriciate your friendship and respect.
Thank you for providing this very helpful video to understand annealing and stress point.
Yes, you are correct. The time does increase exponentially with the thickness. Obviously I am taking a bit of a short cut and trade off and my larger pieces may not be fully annealled. Another thing I forgot to mention is that for closed hollow form work with internal glass you need to double the time too.
I see you have been a busy guy lately. Looking forward to the 8 basic skills videos from you :-)
thanks again!
When the glass cools strain is introduced because the outside cools much faster than the core. Often the glass will crack as it cools below ~400F. If it happens to survive cooling it will be highly prone to breakage because of the strain within. Annealing removes the strain from the glass.
What kinda torch is that I like it small but it has a lot of flame to it wow
isnt the rate of cooling inversly proportional to the distance from the surface of the glass? I ask, because I have been working on the assumption that the soak time seems like it would be an exponentially increasing time with regard to thickness, because of the slow rate at which the glass can change temperature. perhaps my schedule is overkill.-) though, I did develop my schedule specifically to allow deep inclusion of problematic colors. THIS VIDEO ROCKS! so glad to see this and you again!
Bobby, feel free to imbed any of my videos you feel are worthwhile. I'm honoured that you consider them that good. You are the master of video :)
I want to anneal flat 12"X12"glass tiles, can I place a steel form to keep my plates flat?
I have been crazy lately.-) I have imbeded this video in my blog opensourceglass, I hope thats cool, if not let me know and I will remove the post, but your video is the best one I have seen and I want to help people find it!-)
and I keep trying to get the new website to look like something I actually like, funny thing is I really dont know what I really want my site to look like. but I am starting to like the growth and basic direction.-)
when you shape glass you are moving the molecules out of alignment. its like the earths tectonic plates, waiting for an earthquake. when you anneal glass you are allowing it to slowly cool to let its molecules realign.
no more earthquakes
Do I have to anneal in a kiln right after i make a glass sculpture? or can i wait a day or two until i can take it to a kiln?
thanks a ton for the video, is there a way to contact you more directly?I only ask as im very seriously looking into starting a lamp working/glass blowing business and have many many questions! Thanks!
Another question I have is do you need to anneal it in a kiln? Couldn't you just anneal it in an oven or something? Or do you need to do it in a kiln? And if it has to be a kiln, why? And again thank you for answering my previous question.
if i was to have a 3 foot piece of only 1/4 inch this would mean only 1 hour of annealing?????
I watch you put your rod directly in the flame in every video. I'm a beginner and I'm having a tough time making beads because half of my rods crack and spatter and throw bits of glass all around the moment I approach the torch....I'm confused...how come you can do that and your glass melts while mine explodes. I spend 5 minutes warming up the darn thing and it still explodes! Do you warm them up ahead of time? Or is it the quality of the glass? Help! Please! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us...
Did u solve the problem? Maybe you need to kiln the rods first
Borosilicate, my friend!
When you first put glass in the flame make sure your oxygen isn't turned up all the way and you are working with a flame that is neutral to reduced (more propane). I have my oxygen set around 5lpm when I put the glass in the flame, works just about every time I still start at the end of the flame though usually. Working with borosilicate glass is a good recommendation as well, I frequently stick it right into the center of the flame when the oxygen is up to 8lpm. Just speaking from personal experience, but I haven't had problems with this for a long time.
This is a great video, but I still don't understand why you need to anneal, what annealing is, and what it does. Why can't you just sell an un-annealed piece? Could you please explain why you need to anneal???
thanks man