Absolutely perfect. Most economical and probably as close as the manufacturer built them to be honest. Nice job Steve!
Steve Morris is an absolute boss when it comes to fixing and building stuff.
Great repair Steve!
THANKS for another great video! you're awesome 👌
Done many repairs like this. I wish I had a kid to pass on everything ive learned. Kids dont want to learn stuff like this.
Great Steve u da man!
It was a cost-effective repair verse buying a new head from AFR.
That’s old school repair. Most younger people coming up only know how to use the newer machinery not the old stuff.
hmmm why not use a 14x 1.25 tap to locate the angles and the centerline? ding.
Why couldn't a spark plug have been used for your measurements?
Everything you did is 100% correct. Great work Steve!
that 3 jaw has had the sh$t beat out of it, and plunging the tool into the jaws does not help
Play it safe, send it to AFR.
@@keith38able It’s not a matter of trust. AFR already has the jigs. As I was thinking 💭 of putting something in the good spark holes to get a reference and calculate the slant of the plug, he had already machined the insert. He was on it.
@@regsmith7604 I bet they wouldn't repair that already welded together head.
AFR most likely couldn't do the job in the necessary time frame, if they would even take on the job in the first place.
Not to be a dick, but, as pretty as the welds are, I’m thinking I’d have pressure checked the head for internal leaks, before investing a bunch of time. Maybe Steve did, as he’s nobody’s fool…
Kind of dicky to assume no one besides yourself thought of doing that very thing, no?
Potential time saver for NEXT time.... . A machinist, I'm not one, once showed me a trick for alignment that may help. I'll try to explain ; if you had a second piece of round stock, longer, same diameter as your small plug, that could mount in the spindle collet (may need to turn to a collet size on one end only) you would have the ability to quickly rough in the compound angle. With the two flats, one from each piece, opposing each other, you can see gaps around the stock and adjust to get the flats to mate together so both pieces are coaxial. If using the same diameter, you can also get X&Y position really close by feeling the O.D.(s) at the joint. Once you have it that close you could tweak (if even needed) with an indicator. Joined your viewers after seeing the Mullet engine swap! Love the work you have done. Thanks for sharing knowledge on your channel.