Whoever designed that hose needs to be thrown in prison. Seriously, who thought making everyone do a whole lock picking job underneath their car to remove ONE HOSE was a good idea? I've spent more time trying and failing to undo the one hose than on anything else.
You are a determined person. As you worked the final hose connection, I felt my inner mechanic desiring to simply BREAK THE DARNED THING. But, with a screwdriver behind the picks and a shot of WD-40, you managed to disconnect it without BREAKING THE DARNED THING. Well done.
I got frustrated and broke that connector. From the way the hose is constructed, it looks like it carries liquid fuel under pressure. I thought if it just carries vapor then I can just replace it with a standard hose and clamps.
Your powers of observation are very acute. You very carefully examined the rather horrible Toyota designed coupling wiring harness and figured out the mechanical obstacle. I always clean the area before disassembly. Once I have gone over it twice, with toothbrush and warm Oxyclean water I can then see the details. You did this on the bench which makes it alot easier. But you had to first remove if from the car, which is much more difficult. Removing the one screw at the 4:25 sec mark offers another option. If one is replacing the Evap unit as a whole, one could just reuse the part you removed without even disconnecting the harness. I may go that route. Seems that if blowing through it with compressed air is unobstructed the part is good. In that case only the more easily accessed tabs need to be helped over the ridge. I will attempt to take some pics as must tackle this soon.
Incredibly helpful video... Could not have done it without... Some improvements based on my experience: 1. remove the easy hoses first... Two of them.. Also make sure you put a color mark on what goes where (i used colored cable ties on the hose clips).
Brilliant video. You have saved me time and frustration. The problem with Toyota is that they have designed too many different hose connections proprietary locking systems. To lower the fuel tank the fuel supply and return hose each end is different, the vapor canister is different (and the most challenging), the fill breather is different, the fill vent is different. Only the fill tube has the old school hose clamp. Very annoying. How many smart engineers came up with this foolishness? Thank you for teaching us the correct way to undo the hose.
Picks and small flathead screwdriver worked for me under the car, saving having to cut and then repair/replace the vent hose from the top of the gas tank. Thanks!
2. For the smaller (tricky) clip... i actually unbolted the cannister... rest the cannister on something (like an oil container)...Spray some release spray on the clip.... then insert the pic (like Tone Dubb) shows.. you will see the tip of the pick appear where the top clip lock shows... then wiggle the fitting to one side... put pick through the other side (like Tone Dubb shows) wiggle that side... pull , and it should come off. ....
if you broke the hose shown at 1:47 can you just replace it with clamps and a normal hose? if not where would i get a replacement hose to go to the gas tank. I can’t seem to find one on any websites
I'm pretty you can go to the auto part store and buy a hose large enough to go on the connection at the charcoal canister. Use a small clamp to keep the hose place, then splice the rubber over where you broke off on the hose. If it's a different diameter, then you need to figure out whether to increase or decrease connections to make them fit. Or you can go to the salvage car junk and find that hose.
thanks for the video, you initial removed 2 hoses with clamps and 1 without a clamp are any of those connected to the gas filler pipe. again thanks and God Bless.
I'm sorry.I really don't recall. It's been so long. I believe if you overfilled your tank. The inlet where you put gas nozzle in, has an overfill drain hose does go to the canister. That's why they tell you not to overfill your gas tank. One hose goes to the gas tank, and one hose goes to the engine intake manifold to burn the gas vapor.
From the "Title" it wasn't clear to me if the person doing this video ever discussed a "clogged" (plugged) hose. Additionally, he never spoke as to how he deduced a hose was plugged to begin with. He just partially disassembles a cannister. DIdn't anyone catch this?
Do you need to relieve fuel pressure (unhook fuel pump fuse and start car for a fee seconds) before unhooking evao canister hoses? Are they under pressure? Or do you just unhook and replace?
Do you know if the hard hoses are available? The big one you used a screwdriver and pick to remove. I cant find part #s, only for the canister and valve/solenoid on canister.
The hard smaller hose is pretty durable with 2 layer. You shouldn't need to replace it unless the connectors are damaged. It connected to tank. You may need to go to like picknpull to get another used one. I never tried to look for one online.
That last thing that you removed from the canister is a valve? Because mine has a small leak from the valve of the canister, that’s what the mechanic said. But they can’t buy the valve by itself
On my evap canister, those two valves attached. I had replaced them. I went to picknpull and purchased the complete evap canister to if it'd turn off the check engine light. When it didn't, I returned it but kept all the values and hoses. They will chugged them anyway. I got extra parts. Don't know what city you're in, if there's a store like that, buy, use the part then reinstall the bad one them return the evap canister. I you want to keep it, it's only $30. Or just remove the valve and buy that instead. They will not have a price for it, just go to their site and find the closest cheapest part on their list. Of course find the part close match the description. Good luck.
You can bypass it. There are sensors and valves that will purge the vapor constantly by the car computer. If you try to remove the parts there, it will trigger errors, and the engine light will come on. You need to find it where the problem is, then fix it. If you got a bad vapor canister, replace it. That might not be the problem. You might have vapor leak somewhere. Do a smoke test check.
The engine light is constantly on for other reasons anyway (car has 400k miles). The new cannister and valve cost about $500, which is a large fraction of the worth of the car, so I do not want to fix the problem.
@michaelminnick386 are you sure the canister is the problem? What's the engine trouble code?. You can try picknpull and get a used one. Return it for credit if the problem still shows up. You it maybe a cracked breather valve on top of the gas tank. I'm assuming you have already figured out it's not the gas cap or those parts in the engine area. Make a smoke machine to test for leaks. On my channel, I made one with parts in my garage. Simple.
I am not sure of anything, but two mechanics have told me the valve is failing to open properly. When I fill up the tank, it is very difficult to get the car to start. I must pump the gas pedal while I crank for many seconds.
@michaelminnick386 under your engine compartment, you have a canister purge valve. Replace that should take care of it. When you filled up gas, you got gas vapor going to the engine, flooding it. That's why the hard starts.
Does any one know the part number to the smaller clip hose that goes to the fuel tank. I actually broke mines and now I need a replacement. I have search for it but I am unable to locate in diagrams online. Much appreciated if someone can help me!!
I went to picknpull and got couple. Go to autozone or dealer. They can find it for you. I think these clips are for on to of the gastank for the fuel pump. www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-line-clip/p/dorman-fuel-line-clip-800-023/604824_0_0?spps.s=4020&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:19489353553&&CATARGETID=120054150001290089&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAiAmJGgBhAZEiwA1JZolrx4JvMAdJDipPXsZS1oudTRFyYEvHlcDLpkQf6S45N79WH6WQeQORoCd2gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
You just make sure to get the pick tools pushing those tabs out in order to side the connectors. Need to be patience. Removed the canister mounted the frame or some you can even separate the hose connected to diaphragm valve. It's just more room to work with.
@fireyourrocketts I do have another video where I removed it under the car. It's a little harder to see how I did it. So, this video is to show you a closer view of how to unhook the connectors.
Of course it's easier disconnect on the table. There's limited space underneath the car and not to mention you're laying on the ground upside-down undoing the plugs. It's still somewhat easy to disconnect.
Jack up car, put on jack stands, disconnect left-side wheel knuckle from frame-suspension bits, release one side of frame to get more space. Then it's no problem using small screwdrivers and some picks at least for the larger "quick-connect" fitting. Most of these are "push-squeeze-pull-release" fittings that work great when new, but not so well after 20 years of temperature cycles and dirt. The last annoying bit was getting that top wiring harness off. The valve can be slid off it's holder making it slightly easier to get fingers around on to the press button to release. The press-fit holder thing that holds the wiring harness joint in place on top was also annoying. There's at least one youtube video of the process for Toyota, and I don't think they've changed that design much in the last 15-20 years.
Whoever designed that hose needs to be thrown in prison. Seriously, who thought making everyone do a whole lock picking job underneath their car to remove ONE HOSE was a good idea? I've spent more time trying and failing to undo the one hose than on anything else.
They purposely make it hard so you have to go to them for service.
There is a tool for it. Used on a lot of quick connect fittings.
@andriosz only worth it if you use it often.
@@andrioszwhats the tool call?
@@AngelLopez-se6ok search for quick disconnect tool set. But I'm not sure if there is one large enough for this.
You are a determined person. As you worked the final hose connection, I felt my inner mechanic desiring to simply BREAK THE DARNED THING. But, with a screwdriver behind the picks and a shot of WD-40, you managed to disconnect it without BREAKING THE DARNED THING. Well done.
I got frustrated and broke that connector. From the way the hose is constructed, it looks like it carries liquid fuel under pressure. I thought if it just carries vapor then I can just replace it with a standard hose and clamps.
Lol. Yes it was great
Your powers of observation are very acute. You very carefully examined the rather horrible Toyota designed coupling wiring harness and figured out the mechanical obstacle.
I always clean the area before disassembly. Once I have gone over it twice, with toothbrush and warm Oxyclean water I can then see the details. You did this on the bench which makes it alot easier. But you had to first remove if from the car, which is much more difficult. Removing the one screw at the 4:25 sec mark offers another option. If one is replacing the Evap unit as a whole, one could just reuse the part you removed without even disconnecting the harness. I may go that route. Seems that if blowing through it with compressed air is unobstructed the part is good.
In that case only the more easily accessed tabs need to be helped over the ridge. I will attempt to take some pics as must tackle this soon.
Finally! A video showing how to remove the bloody electrical connectors!! Thanks much!!
Incredibly helpful video... Could not have done it without... Some improvements based on my experience:
1. remove the easy hoses first... Two of them.. Also make sure you put a color mark on what goes where (i used colored cable ties on the hose clips).
Brilliant video. You have saved me time and frustration. The problem with Toyota is that they have designed too many different hose connections proprietary locking systems. To lower the fuel tank the fuel supply and return hose each end is different, the vapor canister is different (and the most challenging), the fill breather is different, the fill vent is different. Only the fill tube has the old school hose clamp. Very annoying. How many smart engineers came up with this foolishness? Thank you for teaching us the correct way to undo the hose.
@pakkelly it's all about making it difficult, so they make money off you on services and maintenance.
Picks and small flathead screwdriver worked for me under the car, saving having to cut and then repair/replace the vent hose from the top of the gas tank. Thanks!
Thank you for making this step so clear. Been struggling with this and no other videos clearly showed how to get the connection off. Good work!!
Thank you for posting this video. Kept me from busting something.
You have done a good service. Thank you sir
The last connection only requires to squeeze the tabs and push it out. No need to insert picks.
Youre a 100% right
I’ve been squeezing for days and not budging…sucks
no it does not, squeezing does nothing, that connector is designed to be in but not to take out.
2. For the smaller (tricky) clip... i actually unbolted the cannister... rest the cannister on something (like an oil container)...Spray some release spray on the clip.... then insert the pic (like Tone Dubb) shows.. you will see the tip of the pick appear where the top clip lock shows... then wiggle the fitting to one side... put pick through the other side (like Tone Dubb shows) wiggle that side... pull , and it should come off. ....
Thanks, the pick tool tip was huge!
Excellent video bro!!!
Excellent! Thank you sir!
if you broke the hose shown at 1:47 can you just replace it with clamps and a normal hose? if not where would i get a replacement hose to go to the gas tank. I can’t seem to find one on any websites
I'm pretty you can go to the auto part store and buy a hose large enough to go on the connection at the charcoal canister. Use a small clamp to keep the hose place, then splice the rubber over where you broke off on the hose. If it's a different diameter, then you need to figure out whether to increase or decrease connections to make them fit.
Or you can go to the salvage car junk and find that hose.
It was very helpful, thank you 😊 🙏
thanks for the video, you initial removed 2 hoses with clamps and 1 without a clamp are any of those connected to the gas filler pipe. again thanks and God Bless.
I'm sorry.I really don't recall. It's been so long. I believe if you overfilled your tank. The inlet where you put gas nozzle in, has an overfill drain hose does go to the canister. That's why they tell you not to overfill your gas tank. One hose goes to the gas tank, and one hose goes to the engine intake manifold to burn the gas vapor.
what are the part numbers for the hoses that you unplugged at 0:27 and 0:35?
I don't know. You can probably find picture diagram on line them probably one would have the part numbers.
Thank you for this!
You're welcome.
Thanks! Exactly what I needed to see.
No problem! Glad it helped.
From the "Title" it wasn't clear to me if the person doing this video ever discussed a "clogged" (plugged) hose. Additionally, he never spoke as to how he deduced a hose was plugged to begin with. He just partially disassembles a cannister. DIdn't anyone catch this?
Thanks!
Do you need to relieve fuel pressure (unhook fuel pump fuse and start car for a fee seconds) before unhooking evao canister hoses? Are they under pressure? Or do you just unhook and replace?
There shouldn't be no gas or pressure in those hoses leading to the canister.
thank you! I'm trying to replace a hose for the canister due to a hole in the middle of hose.
Do you know if the hard hoses are available? The big one you used a screwdriver and pick to remove. I cant find part #s, only for the canister and valve/solenoid on canister.
The hard smaller hose is pretty durable with 2 layer. You shouldn't need to replace it unless the connectors are damaged. It connected to tank. You may need to go to like picknpull to get another used one. I never tried to look for one online.
That last thing that you removed from the canister is a valve?
Because mine has a small leak from the valve of the canister, that’s what the mechanic said. But they can’t buy the valve by itself
On my evap canister, those two valves attached. I had replaced them. I went to picknpull and purchased the complete evap canister to if it'd turn off the check engine light. When it didn't, I returned it but kept all the values and hoses. They will chugged them anyway. I got extra parts. Don't know what city you're in, if there's a store like that, buy, use the part then reinstall the bad one them return the evap canister. I you want to keep it, it's only $30. Or just remove the valve and buy that instead. They will not have a price for it, just go to their site and find the closest cheapest part on their list. Of course find the part close match the description. Good luck.
Ok, thanks for the info
Does anyone know how to bypass the EVAP system on a 2003 Corolla? My mechanic said he would do it if he knew how
You can bypass it. There are sensors and valves that will purge the vapor constantly by the car computer. If you try to remove the parts there, it will trigger errors, and the engine light will come on. You need to find it where the problem is, then fix it. If you got a bad vapor canister, replace it. That might not be the problem. You might have vapor leak somewhere. Do a smoke test check.
The engine light is constantly on for other reasons anyway (car has 400k miles). The new cannister and valve cost about $500, which is a large fraction of the worth of the car, so I do not want to fix the problem.
@michaelminnick386 are you sure the canister is the problem? What's the engine trouble code?. You can try picknpull and get a used one. Return it for credit if the problem still shows up. You it maybe a cracked breather valve on top of the gas tank. I'm assuming you have already figured out it's not the gas cap or those parts in the engine area. Make a smoke machine to test for leaks. On my channel, I made one with parts in my garage. Simple.
I am not sure of anything, but two mechanics have told me the valve is failing to open properly. When I fill up the tank, it is very difficult to get the car to start. I must pump the gas pedal while I crank for many seconds.
@michaelminnick386 under your engine compartment, you have a canister purge valve. Replace that should take care of it. When you filled up gas, you got gas vapor going to the engine, flooding it. That's why the hard starts.
Does any one know the part number to the smaller clip hose that goes to the fuel tank. I actually broke mines and now I need a replacement. I have search for it but I am unable to locate in diagrams online. Much appreciated if someone can help me!!
I went to picknpull and got couple. Go to autozone or dealer. They can find it for you. I think these clips are for on to of the gastank for the fuel pump.
www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-line-clip/p/dorman-fuel-line-clip-800-023/604824_0_0?spps.s=4020&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:19489353553&&CATARGETID=120054150001290089&CADevice=m&gclid=CjwKCAiAmJGgBhAZEiwA1JZolrx4JvMAdJDipPXsZS1oudTRFyYEvHlcDLpkQf6S45N79WH6WQeQORoCd2gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Okay so I was correct in my method but it's just finicky as fuck. Do quick connect disconnects work?
You just make sure to get the pick tools pushing those tabs out in order to side the connectors. Need to be patience. Removed the canister mounted the frame or some you can even separate the hose connected to diaphragm valve. It's just more room to work with.
sure but try it with it in the car still!
@fireyourrocketts I do have another video where I removed it under the car. It's a little harder to see how I did it. So, this video is to show you a closer view of how to unhook the connectors.
Huge pain in the ass while laying under the vehicle
Sure is. Keep your mouth close while you're working.
you had problems on the table, how about on the car
Of course it's easier disconnect on the table. There's limited space underneath the car and not to mention you're laying on the ground upside-down undoing the plugs. It's still somewhat easy to disconnect.
Jack up car, put on jack stands, disconnect left-side wheel knuckle from frame-suspension bits, release one side of frame to get more space. Then it's no problem using small screwdrivers and some picks at least for the larger "quick-connect" fitting. Most of these are "push-squeeze-pull-release" fittings that work great when new, but not so well after 20 years of temperature cycles and dirt.
The last annoying bit was getting that top wiring harness off. The valve can be slid off it's holder making it slightly easier to get fingers around on to the press button to release. The press-fit holder thing that holds the wiring harness joint in place on top was also annoying.
There's at least one youtube video of the process for Toyota, and I don't think they've changed that design much in the last 15-20 years.
Change title or something say it's out the truck already!