The green box is a specialty integrating transformer. If the hv goes too high it will arc over and kill the counter. If you go with a zener stack make sure to add s buffer capacitor, a resistor, then the zener stack, main limiting resistor. Then the gc cap. Otherwise the ringing pluses will clip and iy may not count right. Fixed hundreds of these things over the years.
The buzzing with no difflection is usually the crappy HV diode or the sensing transformer arcing, same but with full scale deflation is usually the probe cable.
Hey man, thanks for the video it wound up being a life saver. I stuck the probes of my multimeter into the probe socket of the geiger counter and set my high voltage adjustment screw until it read about 560v reading on my meter and that fixed my problem. The ground pin on my socket was one of the two pins that are closest together and my positive pin was the one farthest away from the other two that are close to eachother.
Glad it helped someone... I figured if I was going to spend the time ripping it apart, I might as well to record it. Considering there's probably not a ton of knowledgeable people with them anymore.
That schematic diagram in the case is labeled at several points to show what voltage to expect when using a plain old 20000 ohms/volt multimeter. A good way to start the repair would be to measure the DC voltage at each of those points. When my meter failed, I had great success with a set of replacement components sold on eBay. The parts and instructions were specific to my particular model of CDV-700. To do this kind of repair, you will need decent soldering skills and lots of desoldering braid. Several of the parts that I removed did not match their specified values. I replaced every supplied component, and in the end the meter worked fine.
For anyone else that broke the conmectinf pins off the geiger muller tube like i did, took me a while to figure out but the ground wire goes from the ground pin of the connecting socket to the side if the metal interior of the tube itself and must touch. The the wire in the center of the tube goes to the positive pin of the connector but does not touch the ground wire at all. Atleast thats what my victoreen 6993 tube setup is running on my victoreen cdv700 6b
I have a cdv700 last year make high spike needles then spike goes zero. No moving when turn on or when rod goes proximun to check source. Long history short, i give to electrical enginer he says same you say. Diagnóstic: muller tube broken or depleted not electrical problem.. And today i turned on and its humming so electrical works. Thats because eBay sells 4 o 6 or dozen packs of tubes because of time most are timed out. I live in Argentina i know never gonna can buy tubes or pass in customs. So gonna give to museum and buy a proper gamma scout probably
Is it safe then to just throw in regular alkaline D cells in the stock unit? Read someplace that the original batteries were slightly different voltages
Really a bummer that the tube is burned out,unfortunatly as much as these things are simple enough that they are fairly easy to repair that's the most critical part of the meter.
Hey you don't happen to have the original user manual for this thing do you? The manual says you can hear a slight buzz when operational. Also it says to check the tube before looking further into other electrical problems. The book has other good info in there too.
If your talking about the plastic D Cell battery holders, those are made specific for that... Note - Modern batteries like AA cells can power this fine, you could get 2 sets of 2AA cell battery holders and attach them in pace of the existing 2D holders. You would have to rig up a way to mount them.
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The green box is a specialty integrating transformer. If the hv goes too high it will arc over and kill the counter. If you go with a zener stack make sure to add s buffer capacitor, a resistor, then the zener stack, main limiting resistor. Then the gc cap. Otherwise the ringing pluses will clip and iy may not count right. Fixed hundreds of these things over the years.
The buzzing with no difflection is usually the crappy HV diode or the sensing transformer arcing, same but with full scale deflation is usually the probe cable.
The probe wiring is I think is what’s going on with mine. Full meter deflection and crazy CPM.
Hey man, thanks for the video it wound up being a life saver. I stuck the probes of my multimeter into the probe socket of the geiger counter and set my high voltage adjustment screw until it read about 560v reading on my meter and that fixed my problem. The ground pin on my socket was one of the two pins that are closest together and my positive pin was the one farthest away from the other two that are close to eachother.
Glad it helped someone... I figured if I was going to spend the time ripping it apart, I might as well to record it. Considering there's probably not a ton of knowledgeable people with them anymore.
I've been shocked my my Geiger counter it makes your heart beat funny for a minute
Where at did you get shocked?
Take the rubber gasket off of the bottom of the Geiger tube It may be preventing the tube from going into the socket and working. I always trash them.
That schematic diagram in the case is labeled at several points to show what voltage to expect when using a plain old 20000 ohms/volt multimeter. A good way to start the repair would be to measure the DC voltage at each of those points.
When my meter failed, I had great success with a set of replacement components sold on eBay. The parts and instructions were specific to my particular model of CDV-700. To do this kind of repair, you will need decent soldering skills and lots of desoldering braid. Several of the parts that I removed did not match their specified values. I replaced every supplied component, and in the end the meter worked fine.
For anyone else that broke the conmectinf pins off the geiger muller tube like i did, took me a while to figure out but the ground wire goes from the ground pin of the connecting socket to the side if the metal interior of the tube itself and must touch. The the wire in the center of the tube goes to the positive pin of the connector but does not touch the ground wire at all. Atleast thats what my victoreen 6993 tube setup is running on my victoreen cdv700 6b
I have a cdv700 last year make high spike needles then spike goes zero. No moving when turn on or when rod goes proximun to check source. Long history short, i give to electrical enginer he says same you say. Diagnóstic: muller tube broken or depleted not electrical problem.. And today i turned on and its humming so electrical works. Thats because eBay sells 4 o 6 or dozen packs of tubes because of time most are timed out. I live in Argentina i know never gonna can buy tubes or pass in customs. So gonna give to museum and buy a proper gamma scout probably
And really like your vídeo and logic test and im very sad that you cant fix it really man
Is it safe then to just throw in regular alkaline D cells in the stock unit? Read someplace that the original batteries were slightly different voltages
the only part ive changed on mine is the selium rectifier, under the high voltage discharge tube,
Really a bummer that the tube is burned out,unfortunatly as much as these things are simple enough that they are fairly easy to repair that's the most critical part of the meter.
Where areyou getting info from? I cant find much
Hey you don't happen to have the original user manual for this thing do you? The manual says you can hear a slight buzz when operational. Also it says to check the tube before looking further into other electrical problems. The book has other good info in there too.
I have a French Geiger counter and it does the same thing.Can somebody offer Me a contact to talk?
My batteries blew up in mine. Do you know what the replacement pieces that hold the battery are called? Battery box?
If your talking about the plastic D Cell battery holders, those are made specific for that... Note - Modern batteries like AA cells can power this fine, you could get 2 sets of 2AA cell battery holders and attach them in pace of the existing 2D holders. You would have to rig up a way to mount them.
@@TheMadHatter1337 thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
I have the exact same problem
Maybe the ground on the flyback.