As always, spot on.. Maybe (he asked politely) a video on indoor holiday shots? Close ups, small groups, etc.. O/C flash, soft box, umbrella.. We always want more, right? Sorry, but high quality is rewarded with a large audience, which means more requests.. And I applaud your talents.. Hey, weddings, middle of the holidays, you're not that busy, right? LOL...
nicely presented. For my taste the 1/15th/sec exposure time seems to be a tad to long for people, especially when using the video light, might receive some motion blur. A faster lens or higher ISO would help here. About the flash, the kids seem to be a bit overexposed. But good to get the understanding. Thank you.
Great overview! Of the 3 examples shown here, I feel on-camera flash produced the best balance between subject and foreground, without the fake Rembrandt lighting that the off-camera solution provides. (Why would strong light be coming from off axis in a very dark environment? There's not "sun" to emulate here!) Unless you're in a studio, off-camera lighting can create more weirdness than it solves, despite undeniably adding depth to the subject. I feel like the attitude of fill flash applies here, even at the risk of underexposing the subject.
Thanks, Joe for presentation! My experience is that the case of one off-camera flash does not give a much freedom. If one side illuminated the other side is rather dark. So one comes to conclusion to have second flash. The only viable option, for exception of using white seiling as reflector, is to move the flash 1-1.5 meter off camera and mount small wearable softbox. This will produce more even illumination than in the case of on-camera flash. The direct light from on-camera flash can also be mitigated by directing lamp up and put metallic or white reflector - called "big leaf" or "burdock leaf" (in Russia). This will produce more smooth light. So my opinion is that transmitter useful only if you have 2+ flashes. Also "burdock" approach is the only feasible when large lens is on the camera, 40-150 f/2.8 for instance.
I really found the last few minutes useful: Using the shutter speed in M mode to control the background brightness versus the flash compensation to control the foreground elements.
Another great video, Joe! And very useful from one "overkill photo dad" to another, lol! I did do off camera flash with some holiday lights for our chirstmas card this year, but wish I had seen your video first. It turned out ok, but I was controlling the camera with the OI.Share app, so I forgot about adjusting the TTL compensation on the flash. Doh!
Another good one, Joseph. I knew that stuff, 20 years ago, but had forgotten it since then. Two things you didn't touch on were slow sync and second curtain sync. I think slow sync is the same as what you did, except that you're telling the camera that's what you want to do, instead of taking over and doing it manually, right?
a lot of LEDs either have a color balance function or they come with an amber gel. If you get one without it you can just order a set of CTO gels and tape one in place. That will give you tungsten balanced light instead of the white daylight.
I got problem with the 12-100 f4. The lens is long so the flash come with EM5II have some shadow on the ground. I am thinking to get a flash. But in the other hand, do you think should I invest in fast prime lens instead?
Man, that's a tough comparison. I would probably lean towards a nice compact prime first although having a flash is a great way to solve many photographic problems. Take a look at what you photograph and decide if you would be more happy with being able to capture the ambient with it's color/quality and direction or if you would have preferred to overpower the existing light and replace it with your strobe light. Also remember that a flash can act as a fill by lifting shadows and controlling contrast. I hope that helps!
Hi Could u help my. I am a beginner and Cannot turn on and put a flash Olympus FL-LM3 I need to find out how to use it. My camera Olympus EM 5 II The flash was with my camera in the box
Hi Tatyana, if it's not working I would check two things. First, turn off silent shutter (heart symbol) if you're using it, you'll need to be in regular mechanical shutter for most flash images. Second, look at the Super Control Panel on your screen by pressing the OK button - then look on the left-hand side for the flash symbol (arrow/lightning bolt) and make sure that it is set to on. That should get it working if you're using the FL-LM3.
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So much great info in just one single video. All grain no chaff. Priceless.
Thanks Joe for this clear and easy-to-follow video.
Thanks a lot for the explanation
Great information Joe, I picked up a few tricks I think I can use. Happy Holidays.
As always, spot on.. Maybe (he asked politely) a video on indoor holiday shots? Close ups, small groups, etc.. O/C flash, soft box, umbrella.. We always want more, right? Sorry, but high quality is rewarded with a large audience, which means more requests.. And I applaud your talents.. Hey, weddings, middle of the holidays, you're not that busy, right? LOL...
Awesome awesome video!!
Thank you Joesph for a great explanation. Especially with TTL flash in manual exposure mode..
Good info, well presented!
nicely presented. For my taste the 1/15th/sec exposure time seems to be a tad to long for people, especially when using the video light, might receive some motion blur. A faster lens or higher ISO would help here.
About the flash, the kids seem to be a bit overexposed. But good to get the understanding. Thank you.
Thanks this was great info. I’m going to give it a try.
Thanks Joseph. Do have a great Christmas with your family.
Well explained and sample pics.
Great overview!
Of the 3 examples shown here, I feel on-camera flash produced the best balance between subject and foreground, without the fake Rembrandt lighting that the off-camera solution provides. (Why would strong light be coming from off axis in a very dark environment? There's not "sun" to emulate here!) Unless you're in a studio, off-camera lighting can create more weirdness than it solves, despite undeniably adding depth to the subject. I feel like the attitude of fill flash applies here, even at the risk of underexposing the subject.
Tanks, i learn a lot
Thanks for a very informative video.
Thanks, Joe for presentation! My experience is that the case of one off-camera flash does not give a much freedom. If one side illuminated the other side is rather dark. So one comes to conclusion to have second flash. The only viable option, for exception of using white seiling as reflector, is to move the flash 1-1.5 meter off camera and mount small wearable softbox. This will produce more even illumination than in the case of on-camera flash. The direct light from on-camera flash can also be mitigated by directing lamp up and put metallic or white reflector - called "big leaf" or "burdock leaf" (in Russia). This will produce more smooth light. So my opinion is that transmitter useful only if you have 2+ flashes.
Also "burdock" approach is the only feasible when large lens is on the camera, 40-150 f/2.8 for instance.
I really found the last few minutes useful: Using the shutter speed in M mode to control the background brightness versus the flash compensation to control the foreground elements.
Great information as always. Thank you. Can't wait to put it in practice. Merry Xmas to you and the subjects & the assistant ( :-)
Excellent! I am going to try all this...
Another great video, Joe! And very useful from one "overkill photo dad" to another, lol! I did do off camera flash with some holiday lights for our chirstmas card this year, but wish I had seen your video first. It turned out ok, but I was controlling the camera with the OI.Share app, so I forgot about adjusting the TTL compensation on the flash. Doh!
Another good one, Joseph. I knew that stuff, 20 years ago, but had forgotten it since then.
Two things you didn't touch on were slow sync and second curtain sync. I think slow sync is the same as what you did, except that you're telling the camera that's what you want to do, instead of taking over and doing it manually, right?
Joseph - I noticed that your LED light has an amber tint to it. How did you do that?
a lot of LEDs either have a color balance function or they come with an amber gel. If you get one without it you can just order a set of CTO gels and tape one in place. That will give you tungsten balanced light instead of the white daylight.
@@JosephEllisPhotographer - Thank you!
I got problem with the 12-100 f4. The lens is long so the flash come with EM5II have some shadow on the ground. I am thinking to get a flash. But in the other hand, do you think should I invest in fast prime lens instead?
Man, that's a tough comparison. I would probably lean towards a nice compact prime first although having a flash is a great way to solve many photographic problems. Take a look at what you photograph and decide if you would be more happy with being able to capture the ambient with it's color/quality and direction or if you would have preferred to overpower the existing light and replace it with your strobe light. Also remember that a flash can act as a fill by lifting shadows and controlling contrast. I hope that helps!
Hi Could u help my. I am a beginner and Cannot turn on and put a flash Olympus FL-LM3 I need to find out how to use it. My camera Olympus EM 5 II The flash was with my camera in the box
Hi Tatyana, if it's not working I would check two things. First, turn off silent shutter (heart symbol) if you're using it, you'll need to be in regular mechanical shutter for most flash images. Second, look at the Super Control Panel on your screen by pressing the OK button - then look on the left-hand side for the flash symbol (arrow/lightning bolt) and make sure that it is set to on. That should get it working if you're using the FL-LM3.
Joseph Ellis still is not working out(