Thank you for taking the time to do these lime pointing tutorials. Best I've seen. I'm trying to repoint chimney breast in roof but it seems to dry out very quickly despite misting spraying wall ie dry by next day. Is that really no good? Do I need to redo it and soak wall? Whatever it is though its better than the loose sand thats in joints or missing altogether!
Thank you for the compliment it means alot , Soak the wall before pointing ie with a hose pipe if you can and then after you have repointed it mist it over as often as you possibly can for a minimum of 3 days for this time of year if your pointing in a windy area cover it with a sheet as the breeze will dry it out alot quicker
Hi Glenn, great set of videos and work is great. Can you point me to a video for laying with 3.5 lime please. Ive done some practice walls in yard with a collage hydrated lime mix and found that ok
love your work how long would it be before the hessian sheets can be removed would you keep them on for 5 days and would you wet the wall at all after pointing or just the hessian sheeting
Please feel free to subscribe it helps getting my channel out there Depending on the temperature I would keep it on 5 days dampen the Hessian each day If it's hot the next day if it's gone of hard enough soak it two or three times a day with a hose pipe You want it to slow set The slower it sets the less chance of it cracking and drying out too quick Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Will that come out like the colour your doing just now using washed Sharp sand.? Ive been pointing granite for years but using cement. Have you any tips for using lime in summer time. Someone wants me to point a house in lime that was built 100s of years ago in North East Scotland. It was all harled but was pointed originally and its patchy with cement and lime from over the years of patch work. Thanks in advance
@zeusricochant7357 I'd use a lafarge or Saint astier nhl2 or 3.5 Talk to the Scottish lime center they might know the area that you are working in If its to hot take the day off or rake out don't point I work under sheets so the wall is in a shadow Plenty of damp hessian and keep soaking the walls before and after you point
Hi mate. Your works mustard. Quick question I made a strong NHL 5 mix with some good sand and some fine seashell to match.it gets battered by the weather so I wanted a hardy mix and it looks good really strong.it has developed 1 or 2 fine cracks on the long runs. Only done the lime last couple of years of 17 years in the game so knowledge appreciated.top work
Thank you means a lot as there's a lot of key board warriors trying to put me down for helping others Cracks appear for a few reasons Water drying out of the mix if you mixed it to wet The size of aggregate in the mix Did you mix it long enough Hard isn't always better as it needs room for movement Did you give the walls a good soaking before you started Did you compact it back with a piece of wood and chin brush How long ago did you do it I'm here to help send some pictures if you like I can talk you through how to repair it
Hi, just a quick question, when pointing inside the house, is it also necessary to cover it with a hessian or just mist over it every now and again? Also, in total, how long does it take for the mortar to be completely dry? Thanks!!
You can use Hessian inside it just keeps the wall damper for longer Mist over as often as you can Try and keep misting over for a minimum 3 days or as long as you can You want a slow set
Another really informative video, thabks for these. Two questions from me if i may 1. what does covering really do? Its not going to make any difference to the temperature, but i guess keeps the wind off 2. Is late march too soon to do my re-pointing?
Covering with hessian In the summer stops direct sunlight drying it out to quick In the winter or cold weather Frost freezing rain and wind Clings to hessian rather than the pointing As long as the temperature is staying above freezing overnight its fine I'd still cover for 7 days to prevent frost damage Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd amazing, thanks so much. Just googled your website, you're based in Buckley, not too far from where I grew up in Ruabon. I'm going to repoint my Mum's house there in the last week of March and am binge watching your videos in advance. I note you're fully booked up for most of 2024. Would you have say 30 mins for a video call for me to run some ideas past you and show you the sandstone itself and whether the existing mortar under the cement render is lime based? I'll pay you for your time of course
Thanks so much for all your videos, so much information! I've recently started hacking off the render from my 1900 stone house, some parts have definitely got cement but the majority is like black mortar. Would this have lime in it? We don't have any signs of damp inside the house but render is just so ugly 😝 How soon after replacing the mortar do you normally wait to paint/seal? Have you got any recommendations for cleaners for natural stone? Thanks so much for any info!
Yes it will be lime probably black ash mortar or mixed with soot out of a chimney So you are going to repoint it then you want to lime wash it is that correct?
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd it's quite soft and hasn't been done the neatest! Fortunately the render hasn't stuck very well to the stone so hasn't done too much damage. I've been looking at mineral paint as they seem to promise a good lifespan. I'd love to whitewash but unfortunately we don't have a very nice neighbour on the one side so access would be difficult to get every few years when it needs another coat!
@@shaunawilliams2739 mineral paints are good as there breathable Cleaning the stone depending how bad it is use a doff cleaning system or uses low pressure and steam Or acid are the only things you can use
Hi there. Thanks for the great vid. I need to repoint some internal walls - grade 2 listed yorkshire grit stone farm buildings. Loose limewash (I think) on the inside all crumbling off. Should I use NHL or putty? Outside walls have been pointed already in lime. Any preference of brand too? Would be great if you get a chance to do a vid on internal wall lime pointing. Thanks.
@@amyntas97jones29 also check the bag see what date it says on the side And use the lime that you have opened within a week and seal the bag up as tight as you can after opening if you don't use the full bag
what do you think to using hot lime mortar instead of hydraulic lime ? Its a better material...stickier and high compressive strength and needs just knocking up (hammering) and essentially no water to make it workable.
Hi hot lime has its place I'm in north Wales the rain comes sideways So NHL 2 and 3.5 I use most of the time I switch to hot lime if it's a protected area And I can leave the Hessian on longer Compacting it back gives the lime it's strength not just it setting
Hi mate I am repointing a large gable end in dundee. I am new to this and just doing a favour for a friend. I am using nhl 3.5. The weathers not too good this coming week. Very windy. Any pointers? I’ve already learned a lot from your videos. Great work I want a grey colour so will be adding a little black dye
Black dye if it's a cement dye it's no good for lime Google lime supplies Ask them for grey brick dust or a grey colour pigment you can add to lime Wind will dry your lime out really quick so either wait till it's not windy or sheet your scaffolding up But be very careful as there been a few scaffolding jobs collapsing in this wind
@@ryandoyle1793 yes setting time will slow down in the cold but high winds will speed it up It could fail If it's a bit stiff or started to go white just missed it over with water and knock it back when it's ready
Depends how long it's been on the bricks butWater and a rag give it a good rub Or failing that a light acid but if you get acid on your pointing it will change its colour
Thank you, Glenn. As a boy I saw my father make putty for plaster. Some of the TH-cam videos are confusing hence my question. I work in construction in the states and everything here is Portland. Very few masons here understand lime mortar let alone use it.
@peterfcoyle9127 yeah a lot of miss information out there but the states have different temperatures to us But I try to make sure people understand that harder doesn't mean better You want to sacrifice the pointing rather than the brick or stone
Here it is all about production. Lime mortar sets too slowly. They want to be on the wall the next day running it up higher. Lime mortar goes up 6-8 lifts and you must wait for carbonation. I mentioned this to a brick ie once and he looked at me like I had two heads.
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd why soak it mate? I did mine last year first time was great, this year somone else's and cracking must be from sun getting on it can't think of anything else, But mine dried in 8 hours a day max and its not cracked odd, may be tho weak seem ok, ill have to do mine again if i get problems seems ok tho, nhl 3.5 like u and 3:1 I do It's 7pm got home hour ago and now gonna go back to they house and scrape it nooo lol
@mikede2331 what brand of nhl did you use Cracking can be You didn't mix it long enough It's too wet when you put it in the wall and it shrinks Soak it if its warm days to stop it shrinking as misting will dry in seconds
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd it was secil 3.5 And sand was Aggregates for Mortar (Blaenavon) Mix 3:1 My house was also same lime same mix But sand they use in cardigan castle.. I need to look at that chart I think forgot what's it called now have heared some talk about it I'm south wales Swansea
This is an NHL I'm using so it needs water to set Knocking it back with the churn brush gives it it's strength as it's compacting different shapes of sand together after care is protecting your work from drying out to quick Use Hessian and sheets and mist over with water
There's a few factors On how hard it is to take out and how many days it takes How much material your going to use What lime as some bags are £13.50 to £22 a bag What area you live in I'm north Wales so people from down south charge a lot more
@@jamiewatkinson4123 I'm in the UK so you need to find out what your competition is charging in your area Depending on there skill level compared to yours
@@richardreese1974 What I do is when it goes thumb print hard is push it back with a stick first let it go off a bit more then hit it with a churn brush You don't want to over work it with the churn brush
that's not churning.. 😅churning is banging the mortar back into the joint to get air pockets out and to fix the mortar firmly at the back of the stone.. it leaves a stippled finish
If you actually watched the video 4 minutes in on the video you see me doing what you described I use the wood first to push any lime back into voids as just using a brush can still leave voids I'm compacting the 5 different sizes of sand together and giving that aged look If my videos aren't for you there's plenty of other videos for you to put down without watching them 😤
![Mixing NHL3.5 with a belle mixer and what do to if the lime starts to ball [just add more water ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FkBF7C18PwQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![แฟนแนวใด๋ - ยูริ โตเกียวมิวสิค [OFFICIAL MUSIC VIDEO ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4_XVMuhhbsU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great no nonsense video. Cheers 👍🏻
I like the way you mentioned using sound, thats next level understanding right there, thanks for pointing that out (please excuse the pun). 😅
Absolutely fantastic
Thanks for making this video. Much appreciated.
Thank you
any other videos you would like just ask I will see what I can do
Good work!! never thought of whacking it staggered a few times!!
Brilliant, thank god for the Irish who invented stone masonory and this is dead on correct because it isn't easy picking the rite stones fair play lad
Thank you for your kind words much appreciated
Thank you for taking the time to do these lime pointing tutorials. Best I've seen. I'm trying to repoint chimney breast in roof but it seems to dry out very quickly despite misting spraying wall ie dry by next day. Is that really no good? Do I need to redo it and soak wall? Whatever it is though its better than the loose sand thats in joints or missing altogether!
Thank you for the compliment it means alot ,
Soak the wall before pointing ie with a hose pipe if you can and then after you have repointed it mist it over as often as you possibly can for a minimum of 3 days for this time of year if your pointing in a windy area cover it with a sheet as the breeze will dry it out alot quicker
He said he used NHL3.5 on this wall
Hi Glenn, great set of videos and work is great. Can you point me to a video for laying with 3.5 lime please. Ive done some practice walls in yard with a collage hydrated lime mix and found that ok
I dont do brick laying only repointing
Try izzie the brickie he does bricklaying and was asking me about lime so might have done some by now
Good job. Pointing makes hell of a difference. Does lime let damp through differently to cement somehow?
Yes lime releases water it wicks away
Cement will lock moisture behind it
Another great video. How many times do you knock it back and is that the last step?
You knock it back till it follows the stone and looks tidy
I should of done a close up
After you do the knocking back put damp hessian over it
love your work how long would it be before the hessian sheets can be removed would you keep them on for 5 days and would you wet the wall at all after pointing or just the hessian sheeting
Please feel free to subscribe it helps getting my channel out there
Depending on the temperature
I would keep it on 5 days dampen the Hessian each day
If it's hot the next day if it's gone of hard enough soak it two or three times a day with a hose pipe
You want it to slow set
The slower it sets the less chance of it cracking and drying out too quick
Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks for the advice much appreciated
Hi Glen love your work dose this technique also need to be used when using hydraulic lime or is it only for fat limes
Hi this is hydraulic lime
NHL 3.5
Excellent job love your tutorial. Quick question using NHL3.5 (west coast Scotland) what grade of sand is best to use in a victorian stone villa.
I'd use a washed sharp sand choose the sand carefully make sure it's not sea dredged
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd Will that come out like the colour your doing just now using washed Sharp sand.?
Ive been pointing granite for years but using cement. Have you any tips for using lime in summer time.
Someone wants me to point a house in lime that was built 100s of years ago in North East Scotland. It was all harled but was pointed originally and its patchy with cement and lime from over the years of patch work. Thanks in advance
@zeusricochant7357 I'd use a lafarge or Saint astier nhl2 or 3.5
Talk to the Scottish lime center they might know the area that you are working in
If its to hot take the day off or rake out don't point
I work under sheets so the wall is in a shadow
Plenty of damp hessian and keep soaking the walls before and after you point
Hi mate. Your works mustard.
Quick question
I made a strong NHL 5 mix with some good sand and some fine seashell to match.it gets battered by the weather so I wanted a hardy mix and it looks good really strong.it has developed 1 or 2 fine cracks on the long runs. Only done the lime last couple of years of 17 years in the game so knowledge appreciated.top work
Thank you means a lot as there's a lot of key board warriors trying to put me down for helping others
Cracks appear for a few reasons
Water drying out of the mix if you mixed it to wet
The size of aggregate in the mix
Did you mix it long enough
Hard isn't always better as it needs room for movement
Did you give the walls a good soaking before you started
Did you compact it back with a piece of wood and chin brush
How long ago did you do it
I'm here to help send some pictures if you like I can talk you through how to repair it
Hi, just a quick question, when pointing inside the house, is it also necessary to cover it with a hessian or just mist over it every now and again? Also, in total, how long does it take for the mortar to be completely dry?
Thanks!!
You can use Hessian inside it just keeps the wall damper for longer
Mist over as often as you can
Try and keep misting over for a minimum 3 days or as long as you can
You want a slow set
Another really informative video, thabks for these.
Two questions from me if i may
1. what does covering really do? Its not going to make any difference to the temperature, but i guess keeps the wind off
2. Is late march too soon to do my re-pointing?
Covering with hessian
In the summer stops direct sunlight drying it out to quick
In the winter or cold weather
Frost freezing rain and wind
Clings to hessian rather than the pointing
As long as the temperature is staying above freezing overnight its fine
I'd still cover for 7 days to prevent frost damage
Hope that helps
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd amazing, thanks so much. Just googled your website, you're based in Buckley, not too far from where I grew up in Ruabon.
I'm going to repoint my Mum's house there in the last week of March and am binge watching your videos in advance.
I note you're fully booked up for most of 2024. Would you have say 30 mins for a video call for me to run some ideas past you and show you the sandstone itself and whether the existing mortar under the cement render is lime based? I'll pay you for your time of course
@hugh3sy7 yeah wattsapp me some pictures or videos
And I can give you some advice and a rough area where the property is
Thanks so much for all your videos, so much information! I've recently started hacking off the render from my 1900 stone house, some parts have definitely got cement but the majority is like black mortar. Would this have lime in it? We don't have any signs of damp inside the house but render is just so ugly 😝 How soon after replacing the mortar do you normally wait to paint/seal? Have you got any recommendations for cleaners for natural stone? Thanks so much for any info!
Yes it will be lime probably black ash mortar or mixed with soot out of a chimney
So you are going to repoint it then you want to lime wash it is that correct?
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd it's quite soft and hasn't been done the neatest! Fortunately the render hasn't stuck very well to the stone so hasn't done too much damage. I've been looking at mineral paint as they seem to promise a good lifespan. I'd love to whitewash but unfortunately we don't have a very nice neighbour on the one side so access would be difficult to get every few years when it needs another coat!
@@shaunawilliams2739 mineral paints are good as there breathable
Cleaning the stone depending how bad it is use a doff cleaning system or uses low pressure and steam
Or acid are the only things you can use
Hi there. Thanks for the great vid. I need to repoint some internal walls - grade 2 listed yorkshire grit stone farm buildings. Loose limewash (I think) on the inside all crumbling off. Should I use NHL or putty? Outside walls have been pointed already in lime. Any preference of brand too? Would be great if you get a chance to do a vid on internal wall lime pointing. Thanks.
Hi you need to speak to your conservation officer
He will let you know what type of lime you need to use
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd 👍
@@amyntas97jones29 also check the bag see what date it says on the side
And use the lime that you have opened within a week and seal the bag up as tight as you can after opening if you don't use the full bag
what do you think to using hot lime mortar instead of hydraulic lime ? Its a better material...stickier and high compressive strength and needs just knocking up (hammering) and essentially no water to make it workable.
Hi hot lime has its place
I'm in north Wales the rain comes sideways
So NHL 2 and 3.5 I use most of the time
I switch to hot lime if it's a protected area
And I can leave the Hessian on longer
Compacting it back gives the lime it's strength not just it setting
Hi mate I am repointing a large gable end in dundee. I am new to this and just doing a favour for a friend.
I am using nhl 3.5. The weathers not too good this coming week. Very windy.
Any pointers? I’ve already learned a lot from your videos.
Great work
I want a grey colour so will be adding a little black dye
Black dye if it's a cement dye it's no good for lime
Google lime supplies
Ask them for grey brick dust or a grey colour pigment you can add to lime
Wind will dry your lime out really quick so either wait till it's not windy or sheet your scaffolding up
But be very careful as there been a few scaffolding jobs collapsing in this wind
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks mate. Will I still be able to rub it up the next day if it does dry a little faster than usual?
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd I thought with the temperature being low that it will slow down the setting time?
@@ryandoyle1793 yes setting time will slow down in the cold but high winds will speed it up
It could fail
If it's a bit stiff or started to go white just missed it over with water and knock it back when it's ready
@@ryandoyle1793 just light mist it mate with a fine spray
Can you make video on how you clean and maintain your mortar mixer
Hi I'm pretty sure I've done one
If not I will soon
What’s the best thing to use to remove the white residue left behind from the snots touching brickwork?
Depends how long it's been on the bricks butWater and a rag give it a good rub
Or failing that a light acid but if you get acid on your pointing it will change its colour
Glenn, can a wall be built with lime putty or must it be NHL 3.5?
You can build a wall out of anything really
But if it was a choice of putty or nhl I'd choose nhl
Thank you, Glenn. As a boy I saw my father make putty for plaster. Some of the TH-cam videos are confusing hence my question. I work in construction in the states and everything here is Portland. Very few masons here understand lime mortar let alone use it.
@peterfcoyle9127 yeah a lot of miss information out there but the states have different temperatures to us
But I try to make sure people understand that harder doesn't mean better
You want to sacrifice the pointing rather than the brick or stone
Here it is all about production. Lime mortar sets too slowly. They want to be on the wall the next day running it up higher. Lime mortar goes up 6-8 lifts and you must wait for carbonation. I mentioned this to a brick ie once and he
looked at me like I had two heads.
hi when you knock the pointing back into the wall with the brush , what do you hope its doing ?,
Your compacting the sharp grit and sort sand together it gives the mix it's strength
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd cheers
How much is a churn brush and it’s something I’ve never heard of?
You have to ring round to get the best deals
I buy them in boxes of 10 £6.50 each they were last time
Do you need to keep the NHL moist for 3-7 days to carbonate then let dry, so mist daily?
Hi mist the first couple of days
Then soak it after that it will have gone of enough but keep the hessian over it as well
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd why soak it mate? I did mine last year first time was great, this year somone else's and cracking must be from sun getting on it can't think of anything else,
But mine dried in 8 hours a day max and its not cracked odd, may be tho weak seem ok, ill have to do mine again if i get problems seems ok tho, nhl 3.5 like u and 3:1 I do
It's 7pm got home hour ago and now gonna go back to they house and scrape it nooo lol
@mikede2331 what brand of nhl did you use
Cracking can be
You didn't mix it long enough
It's too wet when you put it in the wall and it shrinks
Soak it if its warm days to stop it shrinking as misting will dry in seconds
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd it was secil 3.5 And sand was Aggregates for Mortar (Blaenavon)
Mix 3:1
My house was also same lime same mix But sand they use in cardigan castle..
I need to look at that chart I think forgot what's it called now have heared some talk about it
I'm south wales Swansea
the addition of water slows the carbonation, yet the beating with a rigid brush facilitates carbonation.....so I am a little confused on after care ??
This is an NHL I'm using so it needs water to set
Knocking it back with the churn brush gives it it's strength as it's compacting different shapes of sand together after care is protecting your work from drying out to quick
Use Hessian and sheets and mist over with water
How many brushes do you go through?
Probably 6 to 8 a year depending on the job
Hi buddy, what and how do u charge for stone pointing???
There's a few factors
On how hard it is to take out and how many days it takes
How much material your going to use
What lime as some bags are £13.50 to £22 a bag
What area you live in I'm north Wales so people from down south charge a lot more
I'm from the states I charge minimum for BRICK-POINTING by the square foot is $15 but for stone minimum is $18 minimum sound about right
@@jamiewatkinson4123 stone sounds cheap are you using sand and cement
Or a NHL or hot lime
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd $18 a square foot is cheap? I thought so what would I charge$25 a square foot?
@@jamiewatkinson4123 I'm in the UK so you need to find out what your competition is charging in your area
Depending on there skill level compared to yours
Hi how do you get that colour nhl?
The nhl is white
It's the sand that dictates the finished colour
I used a brown washed sharp sand
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd thanks
for how many days do you knock it back??
If it kept damp depends on temp
If it's hot do it within the first day
If it's colder you can knock it back 2 to 3 days
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd so this weather where I am it's about 19 at the moment keep it damp for a few days and just knock it once?
@@richardreese1974
What I do is when it goes thumb print hard is push it back with a stick first let it go off a bit more then hit it with a churn brush
You don't want to over work it with the churn brush
@@GMTpointingspecialistsltd ok great! Yeah I've finished it off and gone over it with the churn brush once so keep it damp for 3-4 days
@@richardreese1974 give it a good soak after you take all your sheets off
Sounds good what you have done
Why have you covered the walls with tarpaulins
To put a shadow on the stone to keep it out of full sun
Hit like as soon as the camera fell over.
Lol I'm just a beginner at you tube videos
It was the wind honest 🤣😅
D
?
that's not churning.. 😅churning is banging the mortar back into the joint to get air pockets out and to fix the mortar firmly at the back of the stone.. it leaves a stippled finish
If you actually watched the video 4 minutes in on the video you see me doing what you described
I use the wood first to push any lime back into voids as just using a brush can still leave voids
I'm compacting the 5 different sizes of sand together and giving that aged look
If my videos aren't for you there's plenty of other videos for you to put down without watching them 😤
How much would you charge for a wall like this one ?
I'd have to do a site visit
Or see some pictures first
But I can't do it this year as I'm fully booked