The clear back model was for military training in the 1950s. Dad was a radio man in the military. That’s what he trained on he said. As for the battery, 30 volt, there is a man who makes them. He dose an excellent job I may add. I purchased one and it works fabulous. Great video. 👍 Brad
Good lessons on loading test circuits 👍 Another good reason to have a meter like this is to use your head more. These days most of the newcomers think less (I suppose) about input- and output impedance and circuit loading. With a meter like this you have to think more. Today is everything auto-range and auto-setup and so on. Also you have to think more when reading the analogue scales. Scales on some meters are quite tricky to read (where the full scale on some range is the half, and other range the double..). Could be tricky 🙂 By the way, a clear back television set would be an interesting collector's item!
Mine I got from my grandfather is a Triplett model 630-NS type 2 suspension. He was in the Air Force and built circuits, and stations for a phone company.
I found a Triplett 630 Type 3, red knob and in decent condition for $15 today. Can't wait to get the unit sparkly clean and put to work. I too have the Frog squashers at my work and they carry digitals also and they get stumped. I love teaching these kids and watching the light bulb come on when they figure it out. Great video.. as usual.
Hi Robin. Your going to love that meter. The 30 volt batteries for it are now available again on Amazon. Make sure you shop as the prices vary from 12 bucks to 30 bucks. Thanks for watching.
Came by your site looking for a battery for my 630 A triplett ,great old meters , And the clear case meter is a dealer demo meter . Well have A great new year Bryan...
That clear back lexan model is just gorgeous! I love seeing all the resistors mounted in a ring around the range switch like that. I think it would be amazing if we could get Triplett to make some more of those. As you said, they're otherwise identical to the bakelite ones so they're probably made with the same tooling.
We had the Avo 12 here for that craic. 166 Ohms to Volt, with ranges that make sense for automotive work. This very thing happened in work with a rear fog light on a bus, dude couldn't figure it out with His Fluke 83, I pulled out the "useless pile of junk" and proved the point!!! Can't beat the old school.
“Unobtainium”; first time I heard that was my Land Cruiser parts guy, Marv Spector, owner of Spector Off Road in Southern California. The part I needed was called unobtainium and was accordingly priced! 😂
Nice review of some very nice Triplett's. I've got a 630-NS with the range divider switch. A very versatile meter with a 100K/200K ohms per volt sensitivity and a lowest range of 0.15 volts DC! It only handles up to 1200 VDC w/o companion 6KV or 30KV probe. Accuracy is 1.5%. The 630-NS uses 1.5V D and AA batteries, so no $30 30V battery is required (available on Amazon BTW). Triplett's were the "BMW's" of meters while the Simpson (260s) were the "Ford's." Each has a coveted place in history. Belated cheers!
One word: Brilliant. More words: very valid examples. I own (and use) quite a few of these old meters. In many cases much easier to read and interpret than a bunch of ever-changing numbers.
I always learn lots from each of your videos...thanks for sharing! I just put in an offer for a really nice Triplett meter...wish me luck! (And thanks for the tip for a 30 volt battery replacement using the three 9 volt batteries. )
Your absolutely right, for many (but not all) automotive/aviation uses, old school analog meters and incandescent test lights are the correct technology for the application. You should see my test light assortment... I have 8 with all manor of probe bend and length configurations. Also, my beloved 260-7M see's a good bit of service as well. Back in A&P school (c. early 70's) all they had was 260's, and everyone became comfortable with them... however, after using a buddies 630 the other day, I think I'm in the market for one. By the way, he said he'd recently found a new 30V battery on Amazon...
I don't recall the model number but when I was working as a full time bench tech I had an *orange-case* Triplett analog meter on the bench that I used almost every day. It wasn't as pretty as the old Bakelite ones but it worked quite well. In addition to a standard 9 V battery it used an odd size cylindrical battery that was neither a C nor D size cell but bending the contact on one end allowed a D cell ( IIRC) to fit. It was very handy for in-circuit testing of suspected open or shorted diodes, and checking transistors for base to emitter and base to collector shorts. As for your comments at the end of the video about the loading, or lack of loading, that a meter can introduce into the circuit, thereby giving you erroneous measurements, it is worth noting that the factory instructions for calibrating a Hickok tube tester are predicated on using an analog meter for some measurements and a VTVM for others, and use of the modern digital meter in place of an analog meter will give you wrong results and lead to miscalibration of the tester unless you shunt the digital meter with a resistor to approximate the 1K ohms per volt that the circuit and calibration procedure is looking for. (A modern digital meter should work just fine in place of the VTVM however).
Most radio schematics will specify the meter to use. I mention this often, but sometimes forget. They might specify 1000 ohms/volt, 20,000 ohms/volt or VTVM. And yes, a modern digital VTVM is an acceptable substitute for a VTVM.
I always tell people that a short is a self correcting problem. And it's easy to locate. It produces light and sound and smoke and heat (and sometimes projectiles) and will eventually become an open - hence, it is self correcting. It's also, usually, much more expensive to repair.
Two things: I had an instructor in vocational school who always went on a rant about shorts. My second year there a guy with the last name Short enrolled in the class and of course the guys had a lot of fun with that. So I've heard the "It's got a short in it" speech a few times. Sometimes we told folks it had an open in it. Really good info about those analog meters. Thanks for the nice instructive video. I was thinking about looking for a Simpson 260 but it never occurred to me that three nine volt batteries would make a Triplet work. Don't know why it didn't dawn on me.
Shorts has always been a sore spot with me. Someone claiming to be a mechanic should know better. And yup, three nine volt batteries work fine. However someone is now manufacturing the original battery again. About the same cost as three nine volt batteries, but a lot more convenient. Thanks for watching.
Great video I have two Triplett 630 meters I won off an auction site that I would like to get to work again. Amazon carries the 30 volt battery new production. One of my 630's the needle will not go above about 1/4 of the scale, and the other one will not move at all! both meters are in very nice condition not all beat up and the one has a near perfect leather case. Just wish they worked.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Indeed it does, it was built from the 1920s to 2008, and all versions up to, but not succeeding the AVO 8 Mark could measure up to 3kV AC/DC. Being 22 they are a little 'oldschool' for me but they compliment my digital meters beautifully. Your video has taught me yet more about them!
I made a 30V battery by stacking ten lithium button cells. I machined a plastic enclosure the same size as the original battery, but 3D printing would be even better. These days however, a 413 battery from Amazon isn't ridiculously expensive.
"...Need to be tapped." Uh, yeah! But be careful, when and where, you tap! In the 1980s, I repaired & maintained a 50KW AM broadcast xmttr. One of my duties was to perform the weekly calibration of the remote meter readings. Antenna current was measured by a thermocouple type RF ammeter, at the matching network, at the base of the tower. The meter was in an aluminum box, mounted on 3" ceramic stand-offs. The switch, which switched the meter in or out of the circuit, had a foot long phenolic handle. I flipped the switch, to take the reading. The meter needle did not settle right down. I INSTINCTIVELY tapped the glass face, without thinking...and drew a 4 inch arc to my hand. The aroma of burnt flesh wafted into my nostrils. A white patch appeared on my finger & hand. It didn't really hurt, but tingled. The current had just traveled on the surface of the skin, without penetrating (the "skin effect," and yes, that's also a pun). It was around 1580V, @ 1550 KHz.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Good advice! I haven't encountered real high voltages, since I worked as a radio/tv engineer in the 80s. The highest voltage I encounter, these days, the 650V P.A. supply, in my Yaesu FT-101B. I call that "B+," not HV. Of course, RF has its own devious abilities, eg, ionizing the the air, and arching, a lot more readily than DC or LF AC.
I bought one in grungy condition at a Habitat Restore resale shop for $40.00. Vern probably thinks I paid too much for it, and may have, but there was no shipping charge, I could examine it beforehand, and they'd take it back if it did not work. Also, I have more money than time, and it was a good cause. The case cleaned up great and the 30 volt battery (with a 1999 date sticker) still provided 31 volts with no corrosion in the battery compartment. I used headlight restoration kit on the meter face and it came out looking fantastic.
I used the Triplett 630 when I was in High School in the late 60's. They were made when things were expected to last. Short of hitting it with a hammer they are indestructible.
HI Bill. I agree ( except the cases are somewhat easy to crack ). These came from a time when built in the U.S.A. meant something. We took pride in our workmanship. These are still the most accurate Analog meters I have ever had my hands on. I own nine of them and use them nearly every day.
I hate to be "that guy" (my wife says I'm lying, because I live to be pedantic!), but the automotive headlight isn't really a low "impedance" load, it is a low *resistance* load, being that it operates at DC and is being measured at DC. Nearly everybody, including myself, I freely admit it, uses the term impedance when what we really mean is resistance. (Mea Culpa, mea maxima culpa!). Anyway, since this is meant to be a tutorial for newbies, it wouldn't hurt to mention that the headlight Is a non-linear resistor, it has relatively low resistance when cold, but when fed sufficient voltage and current to make it glow, the resistance of the lamp filament will be much higher. The reason a cheap switch fails prematurely isn't necessarily from the steady-state current passing through it when the lamp is illuminated, but instead from the surge current that has to pass through it for a fraction of a second when the lamp is cold and the resistance of the filament is so low that it is indeed briefly close to being a "short".
And as long as we're discussing analog VOMs vs DMMs, think of what a DMM might do in a strong RF field. Simpson & Triplett still ,make the 260, 630, etc, and they sell for big bucks. I'd imagine that a large percentage of them are bought by broadcast engineers.
Great video! You offer a very clear presentation. It is common in electrical work to have conductors so close they show a voltage on a digital meter due to its high sensitivity. Electricians call it “ghost voltage “ because they don’t understand input impedance. Typically, a digital meter will show 30-60 volts on a conductor that actually has no voltage. Usually on 3 conductor NM cable for a 3 way switch. An analog meter won’t give you this problem. For this reason, I keep an analog meter in my tools. I keep my Simpson around because it has an amp clamp and I can see fluctuations and I have a Triplett 630. The only time I truly need a digital meter is for work with VFDs, electronics and 3 phase systems where I need to see true RMS amps.
A guy on EEVblog has a 630 with a clear back as well.., the Neda 30V battery is back on the market and albeit generally expensive, sometimes available tho for around $15. I have a 630 NA type 4 suspension with the range doubler, but doesn't have the 6k volt option. I've got a Radioshack POS that I use in the feild just so I don't damage the Triplex
My old 630A has a clear back. They are also good for doing a quick check on old cap to see if they are shorted since they will push a bit of current through the cap.
Just got a triplet 1200-G meter… Can’t find hardly any information online… Would love your input and to show you some pictures. Very similar to what’s in your photos but built in the late 1930s, in a metal box with a door on the front, heavy-duty latches and hinges, a beautiful leaded glass face… And just made overall to the highest standards. Unbelievable amount of battery crud and corrosion on the inside… And I will be sandblasting and re-powder coating the case… But man this thing is beautiful and the white needle face plate paint is in perfect condition almost 100 years after it being made!
HI, I've been servicing these for some years now. I recently found one for "free" of all things. The original 30 v Eveready # 413 still shows 30.3 volts. Not bad for a 40 - 50 year old battery. Like you, I have never seen one with a failed switch. I am 77 years old and just do this as a hobby. Sell them for a little side money. Some that I have got were a real mess cosmetically with scratches etc. I use Novus 3 step plastic polishes for a mirror finish. I also "fill" the lettering to like new. Nice video you have up here. Mike/K5VSE
What should I look for when buying one at a flea market? Will the functions work if they don't have the battery? will I be able to open them up to check for a battery? I saw two at my local flea market but I did not buy they because I was not sure how they operated or if they had a battery. And if they are defective is it still worth it to buy them?Thank you
I still keep a few analog meters just because I'm old but....you could use a "modern" high impedance voltmeter to troubleshoot these issues by checking for voltage drop across various parts of the circuit while it is under load. Should have virtually zero across a switch or wire.
All the models you showed looked similar to the ones I saw, was any of the ones you showed a 630-nm? if they are still selling them at the flea market I might buy them if they give me a good price.Thank you
Nobody's got a spare 30 amp fuse but wez all got us some left over 22 ammo that fits oh so nicely in the old style fuse holder! A lot more "exciting" than blowing a fuse next time. I wonder it anyone has had one go off?
I have a clear back unit of the oldest one you have (second from the right). Just need to polish the hell out of it! FYI, there's a guy on Amazon now that sources the 30 volt battery now. I've heard it's a little pricey, but if you got a clear back, looks are everything! Lol.
Very good video. I have a 630 Type 3 in very nice condition that friend (now deceased) gave me. I was able to get a 30V battery on Ebay. Everything seems to be working fine, except when I test a 122V AC circuit, it is reading 215V (300V range setting).Any ideas on what to check to fix it?
Great Video! I really appreciate you taking the time to go through all of this for us. What I really want to know is what polish are you using to make the "outside" of your Tripletts gleam like that ... Beautiful!
Thank You, comments like yours really make my day. It takes time to make these videos and when I get positive feedback I look forward to making another video. The trick to making the meters shine is plain old Turtle Wax Hard Shell and a little work. If they are really bad I will start with a clay bar which is available at any auto parts store. Keep the surface wet and rub with the clay bar and finish with Turtle Wax Hard Shell, NOT the new turtle wax with silicone, but the old standard Wax. It has a VERY mild compound in it and really makes the finish pop. Best Regards, Vern
Had a similar issue with the "frog light" situation, alas, someone from my crew was using my meter and was clear across the warehouse site we were working on. Thinking for a few seconds, I pulled out the fox and hound, when the resistive element entered the circuit, the signal from the tone generator disappeared. Easy as using a meter.
Run into these troubles with regular electrical work . Glow pens/ digital fluke meter show power . Under load nothing getting thru . The volt con tester throws a load on the cicut plus you feel it vibrating . Burnt switch or contactor relay is burnt . Is typical trouble. Trouble shooting faulted lines underground digital fluke picks erroneous currents. Numbers running up and down try to watch the bar Graf instead but it moves up and down to .use the 260 Simpson . Goes to a value and stays stable . Most of the time wires burned open in the pipe because of ground water . Maybe stack a bunch of watch batterys to get 30 volts for the Triplet. The phone company had those meters on there service trucks back in time .
Excellent video! Recently, I've found new triplett 630 VOMs on Amazon, but they are too expensive. And they don't have the 6kV input of the older models. The clear back Triplett is awesome! It has been an idea of mine to have a meter with visible guts. There are small 12V batteries for car alarms, they are like half of a AA battery in height. Maybe putting 3 of them in series and some "black magic" 30V zener-resistor could replace the 30V unobtanium cell?
Hi thanks for watching the video. There are now actually 30 volt batteries available on amazon. And if they're not available you can use 3 9 volt batteries in series 27 volts works fine.
Thanks for the awesome video! I just bought a 630-PLK. The back is chipped and cracked, looking for a replacement back. Any chance you have a back you'd part with? Would the back from a 630A fit the 630-PLK?
Hi Arn, I don't have any spare backs, they are about as rare as rare can get. I would think the 630A would fit. So far every one I have seen is interchangeable. I usually super glue the cracked ones and put a very large hose clamp around it to make the crack tight so the glue sets up. ( Not too tight as you will crush it ). If the chips are not large I then put a wrap of shiny black electrical tape around the seam between the front and the cover. The tape blends in with the color of the unit and is almost invisible. only down side is a few years on the adhesive is messy. A little mineral spirits cleans it off easily. The 30 volt batteries are available on Amazon now. These meters sell for around $400.00 new. Congrats on a nice meter.
Very informative video. But why not just do a voltage drop test across the switch with either the digital or the analog meter? Also love that you explained the difference between a short and an open,,as another old graybeard mechanic it used to drive me crazy when one of the younger guys would call any elec problem a short.
You question tells me you understand the issue and would not be tricked the digital meter. The people who come to me with these issues have two problems, they can't easily access the back of the switch and lack the understanding of how a high impedance meter will "lie" to you. I tell them to use a test light instead.
Thanks for the reply. Also appreciate your description of the various Triplett meters. I'm in the market for an analog meter to replace the old Snap-On one I had that somehow disappeared during my last move. BTW, something else I've found useful, automotive wise, for an analog meter is to test the magnetic sensors they use for ABS, or RPM or TDC. Hook the meter to the sensor, use the ohm section, adjust the meter to read about half scale and spin the wheel, ect. and watch for a needle pulse if the sensor is good and it's triggering mass is correctly spaced.
I have done that myself, but you need to be careful. Some of the analog meters can place over 300mA on the leads when using X1 scale. Some sensors are only good for 100mA. And O2 Sensors should only be checked with a digital meter. But I think you probably know that just from your comments.
Hmmm, I have a couple of automotive test-lamp probes like yours in my toolbox (which I haven't used for years) and it occurred to me that if somebody went to buy a new one it would probably have an LED instead of an incandescent lamp, and so it wouldn't work the same for troubleshooting purposes because it wouldn't pass current when inserted in series into a circuit.....
On the clear back cover , Heres a cut 'n paste from an old post from Fred Scoles (Triplett guru) on the Antique Radio Forums preview.tinyurl.com/hrmv5ju about 2/3 way down "The clear plastic case, molded of a Dupont acrylic of that period (which can crack with age especially near the four screw holes if they're over-tightened), was offered for about $5 extra (over the cost of the standard black bakelite) from most Triplett distributors with any new 630 series. The clear back was intended for field-sales samples, hobbyists, schools, research labs, etc. I have an original factory ad copy sheet from when it was first offered," Personally, I've got a 630A type 2. Nice meter. But admittidly I have a soft spot for the Simpson. Since they where made locally (London, ON Canada) our schools where filled with 260's (I have a 635) and a vast array of everything Simpson in single function meters and panel meters. Familiarity certainly breeds a preference for them.
HI Alex, Thanks for the information. Wish I could find a few more of those clear backs. Makes it easy to keep an eye on the batteries. Simpson made decent meters also. But like you, Triplett was made locally for me. Again, thanks.
BAMA. ORG might have one available. the best source might be eBay but there are so many sub variants of this meter that you'll have to do some looking.
Pro-tip from s mechanic: if you are going to spend under $20 on a dmm, just get a test light, because it loads the circuit just like the old analog meter
i have some triplett ,some simpson , some EICO ,ETC,ECT, FOR VINTAGE STUFF I USE VINTAGE meters , for modern stuff i use modern meters , i can'not use a old meter on modern stuff because the old meter overload the system but for old thing's no problem because old stuff work no meter what and i like to watch the needle to see the reaction of the circuit , with the digital meter you just see #'s go up and down fast you don't have time to see what's going on in the circuit, i love meters ,i my have more then 200 meters by know ,( digital and analog) ,,,some VTVM's also ,,,,enjoy your meters
The transparent case was apparently used to train military techs to spot different types of damage and repair the unit in the field. Check the comments section here. th-cam.com/video/WATxkrzJE4U/w-d-xo.html
Great video on these old meters. I've been looking for one, but they're a bit pricey on e-bay and you never really know when you buy it if it actually works or not. I'll keep looking though.
These are pricey on e-bay. especially for the good clean ones. The were selling for around $400.00 new a couple of years ago. Don't see them listed any more. Ask for photos of the inside and make sure there is no battery damage. I also like to put the meter on ohms and make sure the needle does not stick any where in it's travel. Always a risk when buying on line unless the seller will take it back if it does not work correctly. I have been very lucky at the flea markets and always paid $20.00 or less. I don't care how dirty they look as long as they are intact. Bought a dozen of them from a surplus place a couple of years back some had broken cases, some bad meters. Ended up with 8 good ones by swapping parts. Hang in there. One will turn up.
I have seen two of the 630na at my local flea market in the past two weeks (they have not sold) and I am wondering what to check for as far as operation goes both had leads but on each one of the leads was damaged. So what do I check? they want $45 a piece.Thank you
great video,I need to get me one of them eventualy whenever i can scrape together some extra funds to spend, (or even find one at all,lol, ive been through that exact same problem,( working on my 60 chev, no pinto's,)and Its also pretty funny cause i got exactly that same junk meter from harbor freight ( should have known better cause it was one of the deals were you get something of your choice for free with any purchase)(chincy piece of sh*t) thats going in the trash today soon as im done with breakfast, Keep up the good work buddy!!!!!!!!
Thanks Matt, I keep a couple of cheap meters around as they sometimes have their uses. I leave one in the saddle bags on the Harley to help out roadside breakdowns. ( Japanese bikes have more electrical issues than you think ). Things get pretty shaken and stirred in a saddle bag after a couple of months riding. Leave a cheap one in the trunk of the car and one in my flea market back pack to do spot tests while "shopping'.
If you have to tap the meter to get it to read right, the meter isn't working correctly. I have several Sinpson meters and don't have to tap them to get the right reading. Also, the whole short thing..... this scenario is about a short. The short is in the switch. I bet if you could see inside there would even be a spark. Shorts don't have to only be a dead short in wiring, you can have a partial short as in wire insulation not completely doing it job, cars spark plug wires do this and they don't cause a massive fire. The term short covers a very wide variety its not just cut and dry. Now that you know you have a sticky meter you can make your next video about fixing your VOM.
Carry one in my travel kit. Have for years. Try to convince the new wet behind the ears/fresh out of engineering school types. If it isn't digital and controlled by an I Phone they won't use it.
My Triplett is 630-A. Don’t know its age, but who really cares. It has 6000 V DC full scale, or 1200 V with the same switch position, if the lead is in the normal socket. 20k-ohm/volt on DC, but 5 k-ohm/volt on AC. Yet, here is a funny little math detail. At anything above 20 V most digital meters remain fixed 10 Megaohms. However, the 20k per volt analog meter just keeps growing. At 1200 V range it is already 24 M and at 6,000 V range it is 120 M! Bears most digital meters. Another memory relates to a French meter (maybe Metrix?) my employer had in the 1960’s had 100 k-ohm / V, meaning its movement was 10 microamperes rather than the Triplett’s 50 microamperes. It did not offer anything really high voltage like the Triplett, but it used a mercury battery for its ohms range and there was no zero adjustment. By the way, the “breaker” probably is mechanical catch release, When the needle hit the full scale limit, it released the catch. That is how a British AVOmeter functioned. Those meters were what the school labs had in those days.
Hi Pellervo, yes the impedance goes up with voltage. Think I mentioned that in one of my videos. If not I intended to . The Triplett is an incredibly accurate meter for its age. ( at least most of them are ). The safety relay in these is based on current through a coil. When the range is seriously exceeded it trips the unit out. Hopefully it is fast enough to prevent the meter from damage. I try to be very careful when using these not to exceed the range.
I am European (Flemish, Belgian) my second language (and domestic house-language) is English. but.... What in the name of sacred sanity is "frog squashing"?? Paddy, confused
You know, in the spring when a young frogs heart turns to love. Thousands of them cross the roads. Along comes traffic on a dark foggy night...... I think you can guess the rest...... nasty...
I am an auction junky, and although I have a few OK DMM's, I got a Simpson 250 when one was in the auction. $17.50. I'm glad this simpson doesn't take any odd batteries.
Big Mistake...you should have shown that the three 9V batteries in series arrangement you set up in the Lexan meter gives accurate resistance readings. Just saying it does proves NOTHING!
The clear back model was for military training in the 1950s. Dad was a radio man in the military. That’s what he trained on he said. As for the battery, 30 volt, there is a man who makes them. He dose an excellent job I may add. I purchased one and it works fabulous. Great video. 👍
Brad
Good lessons on loading test circuits 👍 Another good reason to have a meter like this is to use your head more. These days most of the newcomers think less (I suppose) about input- and output impedance and circuit loading. With a meter like this you have to think more. Today is everything auto-range and auto-setup and so on. Also you have to think more when reading the analogue scales. Scales on some meters are quite tricky to read (where the full scale on some range is the half, and other range the double..). Could be tricky 🙂 By the way, a clear back television set would be an interesting collector's item!
Mine I got from my grandfather is a Triplett model 630-NS type 2 suspension. He was in the Air Force and built circuits, and stations for a phone company.
Excellent explanation and demonstration of the use of an analog VOM! And your voice is clear and concise an absolute pleasure to listen to!!
I agree with everything you said. I love the analog meters that have the polarity reversal switch, it is handy for testing diodes and transistors
I have a *Triplett* *630-NA*
---
Agree! So many people say *SHORT* when indeed it's *OPEN!* I've had fuses that had
hi-resistance as well.
I found a Triplett 630 Type 3, red knob and in decent condition for $15 today. Can't wait to get the unit sparkly clean and put to work. I too have the Frog squashers at my work and they carry digitals also and they get stumped. I love teaching these kids and watching the light bulb come on when they figure it out. Great video.. as usual.
Hi Robin. Your going to love that meter. The 30 volt batteries for it are now available again on Amazon. Make sure you shop as the prices vary from 12 bucks to 30 bucks. Thanks for watching.
How cool. I have one like #1 that was my dads from the early 60's or beyond.
Came by your site looking for a battery for my 630 A triplett ,great old meters , And the clear case meter is a dealer demo meter . Well have A great new year Bryan...
That clear back lexan model is just gorgeous! I love seeing all the resistors mounted in a ring around the range switch like that. I think it would be amazing if we could get Triplett to make some more of those. As you said, they're otherwise identical to the bakelite ones so they're probably made with the same tooling.
We had the Avo 12 here for that craic. 166 Ohms to Volt, with ranges that make sense for automotive work. This very thing happened in work with a rear fog light on a bus, dude couldn't figure it out with His Fluke 83, I pulled out the "useless pile of junk" and proved the point!!! Can't beat the old school.
“Unobtainium”; first time I heard that was my Land Cruiser parts guy, Marv Spector, owner of Spector Off Road in Southern California. The part I needed was called unobtainium and was accordingly priced! 😂
Nice review of some very nice Triplett's. I've got a 630-NS with the range divider switch. A very versatile meter with a 100K/200K ohms per volt sensitivity and a lowest range of 0.15 volts DC! It only handles up to 1200 VDC w/o companion 6KV or 30KV probe. Accuracy is 1.5%. The 630-NS uses 1.5V D and AA batteries, so no $30 30V battery is required (available on Amazon BTW). Triplett's were the "BMW's" of meters while the Simpson (260s) were the "Ford's." Each has a coveted place in history. Belated cheers!
One word: Brilliant. More words: very valid examples. I own (and use) quite a few of these old meters. In many cases much easier to read and interpret than a bunch of ever-changing numbers.
I always learn lots from each of your videos...thanks for sharing!
I just put in an offer for a really nice Triplett meter...wish me luck! (And thanks for the tip for a 30 volt battery replacement using the three 9 volt batteries. )
There are actually a couple of vendors on eBay and Amazon who now sell the actual 30 volt battery again. Good luck with your meter.
Your absolutely right, for many (but not all) automotive/aviation uses, old school analog meters and incandescent test lights are the correct technology for the application. You should see my test light assortment... I have 8 with all manor of probe bend and length configurations. Also, my beloved 260-7M see's a good bit of service as well. Back in A&P school (c. early 70's) all they had was 260's, and everyone became comfortable with them... however, after using a buddies 630 the other day, I think I'm in the market for one. By the way, he said he'd recently found a new 30V battery on Amazon...
Yup, shortly after I posted that video I got a comment saying the battery was back in production. Bought three. Thanks for watching.
Good stuff. Knowledge is power. Or as I tell my son's, Knowledge is $$$.
I don't recall the model number but when I was working as a full time bench tech I had an *orange-case* Triplett analog meter on the bench that I used almost every day. It wasn't as pretty as the old Bakelite ones but it worked quite well. In addition to a standard 9 V battery it used an odd size cylindrical battery that was neither a C nor D size cell but bending the contact on one end allowed a D cell ( IIRC) to fit. It was very handy for in-circuit testing of suspected open or shorted diodes, and checking transistors for base to emitter and base to collector shorts.
As for your comments at the end of the video about the loading, or lack of loading, that a meter can introduce into the circuit, thereby giving you erroneous measurements, it is worth noting that the factory instructions for calibrating a Hickok tube tester are predicated on using an analog meter for some measurements and a VTVM for others, and use of the modern digital meter in place of an analog meter will give you wrong results and lead to miscalibration of the tester unless you shunt the digital meter with a resistor to approximate the 1K ohms per volt that the circuit and calibration procedure is looking for. (A modern digital meter should work just fine in place of the VTVM however).
Most radio schematics will specify the meter to use. I mention this often, but sometimes forget.
They might specify 1000 ohms/volt, 20,000 ohms/volt or VTVM. And yes, a modern digital VTVM is an acceptable substitute for a VTVM.
I always tell people that a short is a self correcting problem. And it's easy to locate. It produces light and sound and smoke and heat (and sometimes projectiles) and will eventually become an open - hence, it is self correcting. It's also, usually, much more expensive to repair.
You can also put 10 of the 3 volt coin cells in a shrink tubing to make up the 30 volt battery.
Great video
Two things:
I had an instructor in vocational school who always went on a rant about shorts. My second year there a guy with the last name Short enrolled in the class and of course the guys had a lot of fun with that. So I've heard the "It's got a short in it" speech a few times. Sometimes we told folks it had an open in it.
Really good info about those analog meters. Thanks for the nice instructive video. I was thinking about looking for a Simpson 260 but it never occurred to me that three nine volt batteries would make a Triplet work. Don't know why it didn't dawn on me.
Shorts has always been a sore spot with me. Someone claiming to be a mechanic should know better.
And yup, three nine volt batteries work fine. However someone is now manufacturing the original battery again.
About the same cost as three nine volt batteries, but a lot more convenient. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the input about the battery! Love watching your channel.
Your Welcome Caveman....
Great video I have two Triplett 630 meters I won off an auction site that I would like to get to work again. Amazon carries the 30 volt battery new production. One of my 630's the needle will not go above about 1/4 of the scale, and the other one will not move at all! both meters are in very nice condition not all beat up and the one has a near perfect leather case. Just wish they worked.
Been using an AVO 8 for my times, more or less the equivalent model of analogue meter here across the pond. Beautiful meters.
I would guess that the AVO stood for amps volts ohms. Cool looking meter.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Indeed it does, it was built from the 1920s to 2008, and all versions up to, but not succeeding the AVO 8 Mark could measure up to 3kV AC/DC. Being 22 they are a little 'oldschool' for me but they compliment my digital meters beautifully. Your video has taught me yet more about them!
I made a 30V battery by stacking ten lithium button cells. I machined a plastic enclosure the same size as the original battery, but 3D printing would be even better. These days however, a 413 battery from Amazon isn't ridiculously expensive.
"...Need to be tapped." Uh, yeah! But be careful, when and where, you tap! In the 1980s, I repaired & maintained a 50KW AM broadcast xmttr. One of my duties was to perform the weekly calibration of the remote meter readings. Antenna current was measured by a thermocouple type RF ammeter, at the matching network, at the base of the tower. The meter was in an aluminum box, mounted on 3" ceramic stand-offs. The switch, which switched the meter in or out of the circuit, had a foot long phenolic handle. I flipped the switch, to take the reading. The meter needle did not settle right down. I INSTINCTIVELY tapped the glass face, without thinking...and drew a 4 inch arc to my hand. The aroma of burnt flesh wafted into my nostrils. A white patch appeared on my finger & hand. It didn't really hurt, but tingled. The current had just traveled on the surface of the skin, without penetrating (the "skin effect," and yes, that's also a pun). It was around 1580V, @ 1550 KHz.
When working with high voltages I use a small plastic wand to tap. Been bit myself before.
@@theradiomechanic9625 Good advice! I haven't encountered real high voltages, since I worked as a radio/tv engineer in the 80s. The highest voltage I encounter, these days, the 650V P.A. supply, in my Yaesu FT-101B. I call that "B+," not HV. Of course, RF has its own devious abilities, eg, ionizing the the air, and arching, a lot more readily than DC or LF AC.
I bought one in grungy condition at a Habitat Restore resale shop for $40.00. Vern probably thinks I paid too much for it, and may have, but there was no shipping charge, I could examine it beforehand, and they'd take it back if it did not work. Also, I have more money than time, and it was a good cause. The case cleaned up great and the 30 volt battery (with a 1999 date sticker) still provided 31 volts with no corrosion in the battery compartment. I used headlight restoration kit on the meter face and it came out looking fantastic.
HI Ian, your going to love that meter..
I used the Triplett 630 when I was in High School in the late 60's. They were made when things were expected to last. Short of hitting it with a hammer they are indestructible.
HI Bill. I agree ( except the cases are somewhat easy to crack ). These came from a time when built in the U.S.A. meant something. We took pride in our workmanship. These are still the most accurate Analog meters I have ever had my hands on. I own nine of them and use them nearly every day.
I miss my old Simpson 260.
Well, that and my Beckman 310 and finally extinct Fluke 77, for those applications where one doesn't need to create a load.
I hate to be "that guy" (my wife says I'm lying, because I live to be pedantic!), but the automotive headlight isn't really a low "impedance" load, it is a low *resistance* load, being that it operates at DC and is being measured at DC. Nearly everybody, including myself, I freely admit it, uses the term impedance when what we really mean is resistance. (Mea Culpa, mea maxima culpa!). Anyway, since this is meant to be a tutorial for newbies, it wouldn't hurt to mention that the headlight Is a non-linear resistor, it has relatively low resistance when cold, but when fed sufficient voltage and current to make it glow, the resistance of the lamp filament will be much higher. The reason a cheap switch fails prematurely isn't necessarily from the steady-state current passing through it when the lamp is illuminated, but instead from the surge current that has to pass through it for a fraction of a second when the lamp is cold and the resistance of the filament is so low that it is indeed briefly close to being a "short".
Well said. Impedence for AC circuit and resistence for DC circuit.
And as long as we're discussing analog VOMs vs DMMs, think of what a DMM might do in a strong RF field. Simpson & Triplett still ,make the 260, 630, etc, and they sell for big bucks. I'd imagine that a large percentage of them are bought by broadcast engineers.
Great video! You offer a very clear presentation.
It is common in electrical work to have conductors so close they show a voltage on a digital meter due to its high sensitivity. Electricians call it “ghost voltage “ because they don’t understand input impedance. Typically, a digital meter will show 30-60 volts on a conductor that actually has no voltage. Usually on 3 conductor NM cable for a 3 way switch. An analog meter won’t give you this problem. For this reason, I keep an analog meter in my tools. I keep my Simpson around because it has an amp clamp and I can see fluctuations and I have a Triplett 630. The only time I truly need a digital meter is for work with VFDs, electronics and 3 phase systems where I need to see true RMS amps.
A guy on EEVblog has a 630 with a clear back as well.., the Neda 30V battery is back on the market and albeit generally expensive, sometimes available tho for around $15. I have a 630 NA type 4 suspension with the range doubler, but doesn't have the 6k volt option. I've got a Radioshack POS that I use in the feild just so I don't damage the Triplex
My old 630A has a clear back. They are also good for doing a quick check on old cap to see if they are shorted since they will push a bit of current through the cap.
Just got a triplet 1200-G meter… Can’t find hardly any information online… Would love your input and to show you some pictures. Very similar to what’s in your photos but built in the late 1930s, in a metal box with a door on the front, heavy-duty latches and hinges, a beautiful leaded glass face… And just made overall to the highest standards. Unbelievable amount of battery crud and corrosion on the inside… And I will be sandblasting and re-powder coating the case… But man this thing is beautiful and the white needle face plate paint is in perfect condition almost 100 years after it being made!
HI,
I've been servicing these for some years now. I recently found one for "free" of all things. The original 30 v Eveready # 413 still shows 30.3 volts. Not bad for a 40 - 50 year old battery. Like you, I have never seen one with a failed switch. I am 77 years old and just do this as a hobby. Sell them for a little side money. Some that I have got were a real mess cosmetically with scratches etc. I use Novus 3 step plastic polishes for a mirror finish. I also "fill" the lettering to like new.
Nice video you have up here.
Mike/K5VSE
HI Mike. Thanks for the kind words. Love those old meters. I have 9 of them now.
What should I look for when buying one at a flea market? Will the functions work if they don't have the battery? will I be able to open them up to check for a battery? I saw two at my local flea market but I did not buy they because I was not sure how they operated or if they had a battery. And if they are defective is it still worth it to buy them?Thank you
Forgot to mention that the ones that they were selling where the 630-na model.
I still keep a few analog meters just because I'm old but....you could use a "modern" high impedance voltmeter to troubleshoot these issues by checking for voltage drop across various parts of the circuit while it is under load. Should have virtually zero across a switch or wire.
Great info, thank you!
Your welcome, Thanks for watching.
Very interesting and informative video. Thank you
All the models you showed looked similar to the ones I saw, was any of the ones you showed a 630-nm? if they are still selling them at the flea market I might buy them if they give me a good price.Thank you
Excellent, in same case, Have you been test it with the LoZ mode on digital meters?
Nobody's got a spare 30 amp fuse but wez all got us some left over 22 ammo that fits oh so nicely in the old style fuse holder! A lot more "exciting" than blowing a fuse next time. I wonder it anyone has had one go off?
When calibrating vintage audio like an R2R, is it better to use a VTVM or a digital multimeter ?
I have a clear back unit of the oldest one you have (second from the right). Just need to polish the hell out of it! FYI, there's a guy on Amazon now that sources the 30 volt battery now. I've heard it's a little pricey, but if you got a clear back, looks are everything! Lol.
Very good video. I have a 630 Type 3 in very nice condition that friend (now deceased) gave me. I was able to get a 30V battery on Ebay. Everything seems to be working fine, except when I test a 122V AC circuit, it is reading 215V (300V range setting).Any ideas on what to check to fix it?
Great Video! I really appreciate you taking the time to go through all of this for us. What I really want to know is what polish are you using to make the "outside" of your Tripletts gleam like that ... Beautiful!
Thank You, comments like yours really make my day. It takes time to make these videos and when I get positive feedback I look forward to making another video. The trick to making the meters shine is plain old Turtle Wax Hard Shell and a little work. If they are really bad I will start with a clay bar which is available at any auto parts store. Keep the surface wet and rub with the clay bar and finish with Turtle Wax Hard Shell, NOT the new turtle wax with silicone, but the old standard Wax. It has a VERY mild compound in it and really makes the finish pop. Best Regards, Vern
Evilw, also see my video "One Minute Panel Restoration".
Very Cool and Thanks Again!
Had a similar issue with the "frog light" situation, alas, someone from my crew was using my meter and was clear across the warehouse site we were working on.
Thinking for a few seconds, I pulled out the fox and hound, when the resistive element entered the circuit, the signal from the tone generator disappeared. Easy as using a meter.
Run into these troubles with regular electrical work . Glow pens/ digital fluke meter show power . Under load nothing getting thru . The volt con tester throws a load on the cicut plus you feel it vibrating . Burnt switch or contactor relay is burnt . Is typical trouble. Trouble shooting faulted lines underground digital fluke picks erroneous currents. Numbers running up and down try to watch the bar Graf instead but it moves up and down to .use the 260 Simpson . Goes to a value and stays stable . Most of the time wires burned open in the pipe because of ground water . Maybe stack a bunch of watch batterys to get 30 volts for the Triplet. The phone company had those meters on there service trucks back in time .
I got a Simpson 260... that works too I suppose.
Excellent video!
Recently, I've found new triplett 630 VOMs on Amazon, but they are too expensive. And they don't have the 6kV input of the older models.
The clear back Triplett is awesome! It has been an idea of mine to have a meter with visible guts.
There are small 12V batteries for car alarms, they are like half of a AA battery in height. Maybe putting 3 of them in series and some "black magic" 30V zener-resistor could replace the 30V unobtanium cell?
Hi thanks for watching the video. There are now actually 30 volt batteries available on amazon. And if they're not available you can use 3 9 volt batteries in series 27 volts works fine.
Thanks for the awesome video! I just bought a 630-PLK. The back is chipped and cracked, looking for a replacement back.
Any chance you have a back you'd part with?
Would the back from a 630A fit the 630-PLK?
Hi Arn, I don't have any spare backs, they are about as rare as rare can get. I would think the 630A would fit. So far every one I have seen is interchangeable. I usually super glue the cracked ones and put a very large hose clamp around it to make the crack tight so the glue sets up. ( Not too tight as you will crush it ). If the chips are not large I then put a wrap of shiny black electrical tape around the seam between the front and the cover. The tape blends in with the color of the unit and is almost invisible. only down side is a few years on the adhesive is messy. A little mineral spirits cleans it off easily. The 30 volt batteries are available on Amazon now. These meters sell for around $400.00 new. Congrats on a nice meter.
Very informative video. But why not just do a voltage drop test across the switch with either the digital or the analog meter? Also love that you explained the difference between a short and an open,,as another old graybeard mechanic it used to drive me crazy when one of the younger guys would call any elec problem a short.
You question tells me you understand the issue and would not be tricked the digital meter. The people who come to me with these issues have two problems, they can't easily access the back of the switch and lack the understanding of how a high impedance meter will "lie" to you. I tell them to use a test light instead.
Thanks for the reply. Also appreciate your description of the various Triplett meters. I'm in the market for an analog meter to replace the old Snap-On one I had that somehow disappeared during my last move. BTW, something else I've found useful, automotive wise, for an analog meter is to test the magnetic sensors they use for ABS, or RPM or TDC. Hook the meter to the sensor, use the ohm section, adjust the meter to read about half scale and spin the wheel, ect. and watch for a needle pulse if the sensor is good and it's triggering mass is correctly spaced.
I have done that myself, but you need to be careful. Some of the analog meters can place over 300mA on the leads when using X1 scale. Some sensors are only good for 100mA. And O2 Sensors should only be checked with a digital meter. But I think you probably know that just from your comments.
Hmmm, I have a couple of automotive test-lamp probes like yours in my toolbox (which I haven't used for years) and it occurred to me that if somebody went to buy a new one it would probably have an LED instead of an incandescent lamp, and so it wouldn't work the same for troubleshooting purposes because it wouldn't pass current when inserted in series into a circuit.....
You are correct., I have others in the garage that use various lamps, Head light, tail light etc. for various current draws.
On the clear back cover
,
Heres a cut 'n paste from an old post from Fred Scoles (Triplett guru) on the Antique Radio Forums
preview.tinyurl.com/hrmv5ju about 2/3 way down
"The clear plastic case, molded of a Dupont
acrylic of that period (which can crack with age especially near the
four screw holes if they're over-tightened), was offered for about $5
extra (over the cost of the standard black bakelite) from most Triplett
distributors with any new 630 series. The clear back was intended for
field-sales samples, hobbyists, schools, research labs, etc. I have an
original factory ad copy sheet from when it was first offered,"
Personally, I've got a 630A type 2. Nice meter. But admittidly I have a soft spot for the Simpson. Since they where made locally (London, ON Canada) our schools where filled with 260's (I have a 635) and a vast array of everything Simpson in single function meters and panel meters. Familiarity certainly breeds a preference for them.
HI Alex, Thanks for the information. Wish I could find a few more of those clear backs. Makes it easy to keep an eye on the batteries. Simpson made decent meters also. But like you, Triplett was made locally for me. Again, thanks.
Great video, explains a lot.
Do you happen to have a link to the operations manual for this VOM?
BAMA. ORG might have one available. the best source might be eBay but there are so many sub variants of this meter that you'll have to do some looking.
You have not mentioned anything about its ohms per volt. Does it have a super sensitive 10 microamp movement[ some moltimeters have]?
Guruvu3npy The 630-NA is super sensitive for an analog. 100k ohms/volt DC and 200k with the/2 switch.
Pro-tip from s mechanic: if you are going to spend under $20 on a dmm, just get a test light, because it loads the circuit just like the old analog meter
i have some triplett ,some simpson , some EICO ,ETC,ECT, FOR VINTAGE STUFF I USE VINTAGE meters , for modern stuff i use modern meters , i can'not use a old meter on modern stuff because the old meter overload the system but for old thing's no problem because old stuff work no meter what and i like to watch the needle to see the reaction of the circuit , with the digital meter you just see #'s go up and down fast you don't have time to see what's going on in the circuit, i love meters ,i my have more then 200 meters by know ,( digital and analog) ,,,some VTVM's also ,,,,enjoy your meters
The transparent case was apparently used to train military techs to spot different types of damage and repair the unit in the field. Check the comments section here. th-cam.com/video/WATxkrzJE4U/w-d-xo.html
Great video on these old meters. I've been looking for one, but they're a bit pricey on e-bay and you never really know when you buy it if it actually works or not. I'll keep looking though.
These are pricey on e-bay. especially for the good clean ones. The were selling for around $400.00 new a couple of years ago. Don't see them listed any more. Ask for photos of the inside and make sure there is no battery damage. I also like to put the meter on ohms and make sure the needle does not stick any where in it's travel. Always a risk when buying on line unless the seller will take it back if it does not work correctly. I have been very lucky at the flea markets and always paid $20.00 or less. I don't care how dirty they look as long as they are intact. Bought a dozen of them from a surplus place a couple of years back some had broken cases, some bad meters. Ended up with 8 good ones by swapping parts. Hang in there. One will turn up.
I have seen two of the 630na at my local flea market in the past two weeks (they have not sold) and I am wondering what to check for as far as operation goes both had leads but on each one of the leads was damaged. So what do I check? they want $45 a piece.Thank you
great video,I need to get me one of them eventualy whenever i can scrape together some extra funds to spend, (or even find one at all,lol, ive been through that exact same problem,( working on my 60 chev, no pinto's,)and Its also pretty funny cause i got exactly that same junk meter from harbor freight ( should have known better cause it was one of the deals were you get something of your choice for free with any purchase)(chincy piece of sh*t) thats going in the trash today soon as im done with breakfast, Keep up the good work buddy!!!!!!!!
Thanks Matt, I keep a couple of cheap meters around as they sometimes have their uses. I leave one in the saddle bags on the Harley to help out roadside breakdowns. ( Japanese bikes have more electrical issues than you think ). Things get pretty shaken and stirred in a saddle bag after a couple of months riding. Leave a cheap one in the trunk of the car and one in my flea market back pack to do spot tests while "shopping'.
thanks for the info sir ill have to keep my eye out for one
11:11 "That is a case for a digital voltmeter..." OR, a VTVM!
If you have to tap the meter to get it to read right, the meter isn't working correctly. I have several Sinpson meters and don't have to tap them to get the right reading. Also, the whole short thing..... this scenario is about a short. The short is in the switch. I bet if you could see inside there would even be a spark. Shorts don't have to only be a dead short in wiring, you can have a partial short as in wire insulation not completely doing it job, cars spark plug wires do this and they don't cause a massive fire. The term short covers a very wide variety its not just cut and dry. Now that you know you have a sticky meter you can make your next video about fixing your VOM.
Test light is tool of choice
Carry one in my travel kit. Have for years. Try to convince the new wet behind the ears/fresh out of engineering school types. If it isn't digital and controlled by an I Phone they won't use it.
My Triplett is 630-A. Don’t know its age, but who really cares. It has 6000 V DC full scale, or 1200 V with the same switch position, if the lead is in the normal socket.
20k-ohm/volt on DC, but 5 k-ohm/volt on AC. Yet, here is a funny little math detail. At anything above 20 V most digital meters remain fixed 10 Megaohms. However, the 20k per volt analog meter just keeps growing. At 1200 V range it is already 24 M and at 6,000 V range it is 120 M! Bears most digital meters.
Another memory relates to a French meter (maybe Metrix?) my employer had in the 1960’s had 100 k-ohm / V, meaning its movement was 10 microamperes rather than the Triplett’s 50 microamperes. It did not offer anything really high voltage like the Triplett, but it used a mercury battery for its ohms range and there was no zero adjustment.
By the way, the “breaker” probably is mechanical catch release, When the needle hit the full scale limit, it released the catch. That is how a British AVOmeter functioned. Those meters were what the school labs had in those days.
Hi Pellervo, yes the impedance goes up with voltage. Think I mentioned that in one of my videos. If not I intended to . The Triplett is an incredibly accurate meter for its age. ( at least most of them are ). The safety relay in these is based on current through a coil. When the range is seriously exceeded it trips the unit out. Hopefully it is fast enough to prevent the meter from damage.
I try to be very careful when using these not to exceed the range.
I found a replacement 30v battery on ebay
I am European (Flemish, Belgian) my second language (and domestic house-language) is English. but....
What in the name of sacred sanity is "frog squashing"??
Paddy, confused
You know, in the spring when a young frogs heart turns to love. Thousands of them cross the roads. Along comes traffic on a dark foggy night...... I think you can guess the rest...... nasty...
@@theradiomechanic9625 Or running over French men......
What does VOM stand for? anyone know? thank you
Volt ohm milliamp meter, VOM
@@theradiomechanic9625 Thank you!
Cheers
Just scored a Simpson 270 for $16...
Scott, while I am an avowed Triplett fan, that is indeed a good score. I keep telling folks, keep your eyes open.
ive never had any problems with my simpson
I am an auction junky, and although I have a few OK DMM's, I got a Simpson 250 when one was in the auction. $17.50. I'm glad this simpson doesn't take any odd batteries.
I also got a Simpson, it is a 303 and I got it for usd 27. Love those vacuums tubes! Great video thank you.
Your link is *DEAD* !!
Big Mistake...you should have shown that the three 9V batteries in series arrangement you set up in the Lexan meter gives accurate resistance readings. Just saying it does proves NOTHING!
Simpson meters are better. The only reason people bought Triplett is because they are cheaper.
If you haven't grasped that concept you shouldn't be operating a meter.
Yes, an no. There are a lot of beginners out there who simply don't have the experience. Just trying to help out the new players.
silly talk..............