*Awesome video,* I had _never_ thought about Plasti Dip! 👏 Got a new Pelican case and gave it a go. Now that I've done it, 2 things I'd recommend on top of this. 1) mark on the reverse side with your desired layout backwards so you don't need to worry about covering chalk/marker lines with spray 2) put the cutouts back _in_ (or don't remove yet) when you spray the Plasti Dip, then remove. That way, you have only the top colored and no overspray goes into the cutouts. Looks almost like another layer.
Brian, you did an excellent job in explaining and doing your firearms and accessories layout on this gun case protective foam insert. This happens to be the best TH-cam video that I’ve seen on this subject of foam cutouts. Do keep up the good work!
Great video! Can’t believe how many people do this sooo wrong. Ty for making a video to how to correctly cut out pelican foam. I absolutely hate the pick n pluck foam that comes with some pelican cases. If the Pelican case you purchased came with pick n’ pluck foam, It’s best to just buy a few layers or one solid layer (if you’re able to use one solid piece) of great quality aftermarket solid pieces of foam. A quick fix if you MUST use pick n’ pluck foam for the time being, is to use glue that stays relatively soft after curing to use on the pieces of foam right around your fire arm object to keep them from pulling off immediately as you remove the item from the case. Then just like you show, use plastic dip on BOTH sides of the pick n’ pluck foam as the bottom of the foam is where it’s meant to break apart from the easiest. You don’t need to do both sides of the foam with plastic dip spray if your using solid pieces of foam like he used. I’m super OCD when it comes to my cases and proper cutting. As of lately I’ve been purchasing solid pieces of foam and having them laser cut professionally from the place of purchase. Super clean look and definitely worth the extra money! Amazing video! Oh! Also, always remove the foam on the top of case lid and close it after you’re done cutting to make sure your firearms or any object you’re using is cut deep enough into the foam and does NOT come close to touching the lid with the foam out. If it touches, the top with the foam removed, you need to cut deeper into the foam like he did for his drum!!
Thanks for posting this! Best video I have found for how to cut out the foam. I also appreciate the explanation for the finish work and layout. Cheers!
Awesome vid man, the attention to detail with the way the gun is facing because of the weight and using the plasti-dip to make the foam stronger is really smart. thank you
Hi, wanted to thank you for this video and demonstration. Absolutely the best "How-To" I have seen on TH-cam. Also, I like the dad jokes.. Our sense of humor is very similar and I was smiling and laughing all the way through to the end. Thanks for you're time!
Thanks for this, Brian! The PlastiDip idea is absolutely brilliant! It essentially makes it closed cell foam and protects the foam from oil & grime and...looks sweet AF! Subbed.
This video is the best one I've seen on how to do this, the chalk so simple but blew my mind, my foam is very dark and I could not see the lines if I had used a sharpy, chalk on the other hand is brilliant and the electric knife is so much better than a hot wire. Thanks for sharing and as always keep building👍
at 8:00 you explain to sit the rifle on the hinge of the case but then later in the video you changed it and reversed the positioning. either way great demo and explanations thank you.
Fellow stickler here getting ready to graduate from the "pick and pluck" foam to custom cutouts. Quality work and can't believe this is the first I've heard of the PlastiDip trick. Digging the vibe, insta-sub.
Good Job! I have done several of these projects myself and watched multiple others on You Tube show their processes and this is right up there with the best of ‘em. Keep up the good work! -EsQue
I must agree this was an excellent video. When I saw all the stuff you had outlined I thought you were going to really botch this up... but you didn't. You are truly a craftsman or artist. I have tried cutting foam several times and it looks awful... but I was obviously doing it all wrong. You were able to get twice as much in your case than I would have and show us all how to do this. Really great job!
6 months after I cut my foam I got a new setup and now can't use the case. I just got some kaizen foam and will be cutting it soon. The dip it spray is a good idea, I will have to try it. Thanks Gale Sayers.
Great video and tips. Just wanted to add a couple things.... 1, traveling with an SBR or Silencer (really any NFA item) is a legal nightmare so know the laws... and 2, trim and smooth before plasti-dip or 3m adhesive. Most people would mess up a few inserts or have a shotty looking case before learning these things. I know I did. Great advise.
Nanuk and Case Club are putting the optics at the bottom of the case (near the hinges). Look at Nanuk 985AR case with custom closed cell foam for AR-15 and at Case Club pre-cut IWI Tavor rifle case. There must a good reason for this.
Using the Dremel = brilliant. I was thinking of doing the same to a foam cutout I just did, and had wondered if it would do the trick to smooth out the rough cuts. Nice job!
Thanks man, this was a great video. I just got one of these and you really helped me out. I appreciate and thank you for the time you spent filming this. Also I like the slogan you have on your wall. It really is true!
Class A Post !! Exactly what I needed to see and absolutely love the Hardware, Thank you for taking the time and sharing the knowledge with the community. Did you build the rifle and can you share all the specs?
One thing I'd be concerned with in using one of these cases would be reactivity between the foam / plastidip and whatever I'm protecting ... which would be a musical instrument, usually made of wood with brass or silver fittings (Think keys on a flute with a wooden body.) Nonetheless, great vid.
You made a mistake putting your foam back in. The top of the rifle was supposed to be at the hinges because of the weight and the buttock on the wheels side of the case. Other from that, good job and looks good.
I thought you were NOT to use a TSA lock for firearm transport on aircraft, but according to the TSA website, it looks like you can use them, if desired. Personally, if I'm allowed to use any lock, it will not be a TSA lock. :) "Only the passenger should retain the key or combination to the lock unless TSA personnel request the key to open the firearm container to ensure compliance with TSA regulations. You may use any brand or type of lock to secure your firearm case, including TSA-recognized locks." (www.tsa.gov/travel/transporting-firearms-and-ammunition)
@@michaelauskings1352 I will never use a TSA lock... lots of weapons are stolen every year from TSA locked luggage. My guns/ammo always fly in a non TSA locked Pelican case
Could have taken the pistol cutouts, cut them in half and put half back in the slots. that will hold the pistols out flush with the foam. You could also cut into the 2nd foam layer to get the drum and optic to sit lower. Whoops. I didnt finish the video before commenting. nice job on the drum cut
Great job with this! I have seen the Hot Knife used also, but that is usually on more dense foam. I thought of the Plasti-dip too - it is great stuff - but was unsure if it would really work with the foam. I was afraid it would be absorbed rather than coat. That stuff is great for rims too. You can spray it on and then peal it off later if you want to go back to the original color - rims that is - I don't think it will peal off of foam.
Black is beautiful baby . Great video . Very well done . Excellent explanations to details. I know there are varying degrees of firmness available in foam so couldn’t you get a firmer foam and not have to use the plastic spray ??? Take care .
Thanks for the video. I've been on the fence trying to decide if I wanted to use a hot wire foam cutter, or an electric knife. I've decided now to go with the knife.
I might be wrong. but, in the beginning you said put the top of the rifle at the hinge part of the case, and then you flipped it around later, both times you did say heavy part on bottom, wheels, but you did change that, Hell of a good video though.
This is a great video. Thank you. One thing though... I've seen a ton of people cut the foam with their ar15 mags laying flat. I'd like to cut the foam like you did.. However... Do the mags stick out the top too much?? I mean is it really putting a indent in the top foam? Also a small pro tip for you, if you'd like. You can lay 7 or 8 pmags flat on the underside foam and cut them in and store 7 mags under the middle foam.
This video addresses the exact issue you mention. If you have another foam layer underneath, you cut into that layer of foam as well after you trace it out. th-cam.com/video/3rgSis0HAYo/w-d-xo.html
first you stated to have optic at hinge around 8:30 ....then changed your mind to optic near handle if mounted Im a newbie at foam cutting so which is it... anyone? great video just contradictory!
He said it he was putting his at the hinge first because he was storing his optic in a separate location. If you store your optic detached from the rifle (as he does), you can put top of the rifle at the hinge (looks better) or the handle. I keep all my optics on my rifles so all the tops of mine are at the handle. Some people criticize it saying “it’s upside down”, “looks weird” but he is absolutely correct about protecting that optic. Maybe you won’t ever drop it, but I literally get a new scratch on some piece of luggage every time I fly. Some of my optics are as much as the gun their mounted on. Rather it “look weird” than one day have a damaged optic.
I have 35 years professional experience building custom high end gun cases. This is one of the best How To videos I've seen. Well done!
This video was great!! One of the better videos out. Thank you
*Awesome video,* I had _never_ thought about Plasti Dip! 👏 Got a new Pelican case and gave it a go. Now that I've done it, 2 things I'd recommend on top of this. 1) mark on the reverse side with your desired layout backwards so you don't need to worry about covering chalk/marker lines with spray 2) put the cutouts back _in_ (or don't remove yet) when you spray the Plasti Dip, then remove. That way, you have only the top colored and no overspray goes into the cutouts. Looks almost like another layer.
Brian, you did an excellent job in explaining and doing your firearms and accessories layout on this gun case protective foam insert. This happens to be the best TH-cam video that I’ve seen on this subject of foam cutouts. Do keep up the good work!
Definitely the best how to video I have come across for pelican foam cuts 👍🏼
Great video! Can’t believe how many people do this sooo wrong. Ty for making a video to how to correctly cut out pelican foam. I absolutely hate the pick n pluck foam that comes with some pelican cases. If the Pelican case you purchased came with pick n’ pluck foam, It’s best to just buy a few layers or one solid layer (if you’re able to use one solid piece) of great quality aftermarket solid pieces of foam. A quick fix if you MUST use pick n’ pluck foam for the time being, is to use glue that stays relatively soft after curing to use on the pieces of foam right around your fire arm object to keep them from pulling off immediately as you remove the item from the case. Then just like you show, use plastic dip on BOTH sides of the pick n’ pluck foam as the bottom of the foam is where it’s meant to break apart from the easiest. You don’t need to do both sides of the foam with plastic dip spray if your using solid pieces of foam like he used. I’m super OCD when it comes to my cases and proper cutting. As of lately I’ve been purchasing solid pieces of foam and having them laser cut professionally from the place of purchase. Super clean look and definitely worth the extra money! Amazing video! Oh! Also, always remove the foam on the top of case lid and close it after you’re done cutting to make sure your firearms or any object you’re using is cut deep enough into the foam and does NOT come close to touching the lid with the foam out. If it touches, the top with the foam removed, you need to cut deeper into the foam like he did for his drum!!
Beginner here looking at the Pelican cases. Does the hard dip scratch the equipment? When you say pick n pluck foam what is that exactly.
I know this is a few years old, but just wanted to say thank you. Ordered my first Pelican 1720 and this video has been invaluable.
Thanks for posting this. Followed your directions and took my time. This was my first time doing this and everything came out great.
Thanks for a great instructional video. I like that you are a stickler for detail.
Thanks for posting this! Best video I have found for how to cut out the foam. I also appreciate the explanation for the finish work and layout. Cheers!
Awesome vid man, the attention to detail with the way the gun is facing because of the weight and using the plasti-dip to make the foam stronger is really smart. thank you
Hi, wanted to thank you for this video and demonstration. Absolutely the best "How-To" I have seen on TH-cam. Also, I like the dad jokes.. Our sense of humor is very similar and I was smiling and laughing all the way through to the end. Thanks for you're time!
Thanks for this, Brian! The PlastiDip idea is absolutely brilliant! It essentially makes it closed cell foam and protects the foam from oil & grime and...looks sweet AF!
Subbed.
This video is the best one I've seen on how to do this, the chalk so simple but blew my mind, my foam is very dark and I could not see the lines if I had used a sharpy, chalk on the other hand is brilliant and the electric knife is so much better than a hot wire.
Thanks for sharing and as always keep building👍
at 8:00 you explain to sit the rifle on the hinge of the case but then later in the video you changed it and reversed the positioning.
either way great demo and explanations thank you.
Thank you so much, the best foam cutting video I have seen.
Fellow stickler here getting ready to graduate from the "pick and pluck" foam to custom cutouts. Quality work and can't believe this is the first I've heard of the PlastiDip trick. Digging the vibe, insta-sub.
Excellent tips on the weight distribution! So glad I watched this before I started to cut
Great tutorial -- I would have never thought of using a Dremel grinding stone on foam but I may have to try it should the need arise!
This is a SUPER awesome video. I have done 6 foam configs from this tutorial and ALL are perfect. I wish I could send pics. THX
I like it. A man that takes pride in what he’s doing. Job well done sir. The end results speak for themselves.
This has to be the most informative video on cases I have seen. Thank you!
great demo. I use camera cases, and your technique is so good! I'm going to do mine again (LOL)
Good Job! I have done several of these projects myself and watched multiple others on You Tube show their processes and this is right up there with the best of ‘em. Keep up the good work!
-EsQue
Did you ever use the plastic dip? does it harden and curious does it get hard enough to scratch your equipment. Beginner here
I have used Plastic Dip on various projects but not with foam. It does cure and hardens well.
I must agree this was an excellent video. When I saw all the stuff you had outlined I thought you were going to really botch this up... but you didn't. You are truly a craftsman or artist. I have tried cutting foam several times and it looks awful... but I was obviously doing it all wrong. You were able to get twice as much in your case than I would have and show us all how to do this.
Really great job!
6 months after I cut my foam I got a new setup and now can't use the case. I just got some kaizen foam and will be cutting it soon. The dip it spray is a good idea, I will have to try it. Thanks Gale Sayers.
Where did u buy the kaizen foam? Didnt see on pelican site
Using this for tools but really helpful I have never seen the plastidip before thank you !
Thank you for being so detailed you messed me up w that dremmel though.... mind blown
I’ve cut out foam like this for years but the Plasti Dip tip was was a nice touch. I’ll give it a try on my next case.
21:35 a California compliant ar 15
Jacob Duchesne 🤣🤣 it sucks living here lol
Lmao ur comment just made me appreciate Texas alot more lol
LMFAO 😂
So true, so true thats next! Then Cali is gonna go after the airsoft peeps🤣😭👎 im out of here.
@@Planetone. only thing legal will be a butter knife I live in San Diego
Great video. Really like the top coat spray and the dremal tool application.
Great video and tips. Just wanted to add a couple things.... 1, traveling with an SBR or Silencer (really any NFA item) is a legal nightmare so know the laws... and 2, trim and smooth before plasti-dip or 3m adhesive. Most people would mess up a few inserts or have a shotty looking case before learning these things. I know I did. Great advise.
Use a chalk snap line. Once my optic is zeroed, I prefer to keep it mounted. Definitely like the plastic coating and the Dremel.
LOVED that shirt change! Classic movie!
Gave some great tips! I like the plastic dip and dremel, tips! I AM A STICKLER! Cant wait till my case comes in. Thanks!
Nanuk and Case Club are putting the optics at the bottom of the case (near the hinges). Look at Nanuk 985AR case with custom closed cell foam for AR-15 and at Case Club pre-cut IWI Tavor rifle case. There must a good reason for this.
Excellent step by step tutorial. Good to learn about plastic dip.
That plastic dip is a genius idea.
Big thanks for taking the time! Very educational and great presentation.
That Randy Watson shirt is hilarious!!
Great job and great video. Very instructive
Great video. Thanks for taking the time.
Amazing! Well done sir! Thank you!
Great video....Thanks! And I saw almost every home game Gale Sayers ever played in his brief brilliant career.
Using the Dremel = brilliant. I was thinking of doing the same to a foam cutout I just did, and had wondered if it would do the trick to smooth out the rough cuts. Nice job!
Thanks man, this was a great video. I just got one of these and you really helped me out. I appreciate and thank you for the time you spent filming this. Also I like the slogan you have on your wall. It really is true!
Nice job! Thanks for passing it on!
Best instructional video I have seen! You made me feel comfortable enough to give it a shot and WOW! Hat off to you sir 🤙🏽
Im still new to the gun world so thanks a lot for this video really helped
Quick thought: Use the Dremel prior to PlastiDip. That way you're not cutting away the protection.
Cool video, thanks for the instruction.
Nice job and great tutorial. Thanks!
Class A Post !! Exactly what I needed to see and absolutely love the Hardware, Thank you for taking the time and sharing the knowledge with the community. Did you build the rifle and can you share all the specs?
One thing I'd be concerned with in using one of these cases would be reactivity between the foam / plastidip and whatever I'm protecting ... which would be a musical instrument, usually made of wood with brass or silver fittings (Think keys on a flute with a wooden body.) Nonetheless, great vid.
You made a mistake putting your foam back in. The top of the rifle was supposed to be at the hinges because of the weight and the buttock on the wheels side of the case. Other from that, good job and looks good.
Fantastic tutorial, thanks!
Nice job! I think I’m ready to go cut my first Pelican case now. Thanks bro!
Thank you sir! Nice work and the video was sharp and to the point, well done.
Beautiful work! Best video on this subject period!
DO NOT USE TSA LOCKS ON THAT CASE!!!!! Use Combo/Keys where only YOU have access
You don't seem to understand the concept of TSA locks.
@@benelleliv Please, enlighten me.. My understanding of TSA locks is I know the combo but they have a key to get in making it an UNSECURED weapon.
I thought you were NOT to use a TSA lock for firearm transport on aircraft, but according to the TSA website, it looks like you can use them, if desired. Personally, if I'm allowed to use any lock, it will not be a TSA lock. :)
"Only the passenger should retain the key or combination to the lock unless TSA personnel request the key to open the firearm container to ensure compliance with TSA regulations. You may use any brand or type of lock to secure your firearm case, including TSA-recognized locks." (www.tsa.gov/travel/transporting-firearms-and-ammunition)
@@michaelauskings1352 I will never use a TSA lock... lots of weapons are stolen every year from TSA locked luggage. My guns/ammo always fly in a non TSA locked Pelican case
@@akdragon I wouldn't either, just saying it's allowable by the current rules. :)
LOVE the shirt man. Good video. This was exactly what I was looking for.
Wow, you did an amazing job on this! Great attention to detail. Nice work and thanks for a great video.
Thank you for posting
Excellent video with superb recommendations and technique. Thank you very much!!
Thanks for the information , well done!
Amazing video - thanks for the help!
Great Video, what a great case, it came out awesome. Thanks for all the great advice.
Thanks for the knowledge
Give it up for Jackson Heights own!!
Yes, great video on how to plan, cut and then we get a plus.... your hand speed is phenomenal.
Such a detailed video bro, good work!!!👍
Man you did such an excellent job cutting that foam!
Could have taken the pistol cutouts, cut them in half and put half back in the slots. that will hold the pistols out flush with the foam. You could also cut into the 2nd foam layer to get the drum and optic to sit lower. Whoops. I didnt finish the video before commenting. nice job on the drum cut
First time seeing plasti dip used. Brilliant. Buying a pelican case for other purposes but will definitely use that idea!
Dude I been looking for a video that good to understand.thanks for the easy video it helped me out a lot..I’m now a new subscriber to your channel
"Sexual Chocolate, everybody! Sexual Chocolate!"
Very nice video and great tips! Nice set up as well. Hope you're still enjoying it.
Great job with this! I have seen the Hot Knife used also, but that is usually on more dense foam. I thought of the Plasti-dip too - it is great stuff - but was unsure if it would really work with the foam. I was afraid it would be absorbed rather than coat. That stuff is great for rims too. You can spray it on and then peal it off later if you want to go back to the original color - rims that is - I don't think it will peal off of foam.
GREAT VIDEO, VERY USEFULL, THANKS
Great Video. Thank you for sharing.
Black is beautiful baby . Great video . Very well done . Excellent explanations to details. I know there are varying degrees of firmness available in foam so couldn’t you get a firmer foam and not have to use the plastic spray ??? Take care .
thank you for the video
Love the mod and plastic dip
great video- i didn`t know about the dremel thing- would never have got there on my own.. thx for sharing
I'm a stickler too. Im definitely using the dremel technique!
This is an awesome walk through. Lots of great tips and tricks. Thanks man! 👍🏻
Outstanding explanations. Thanks!
finally a non hill billy channel.. loll good stuff.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the video. I've been on the fence trying to decide if I wanted to use a hot wire foam cutter, or an electric knife. I've decided now to go with the knife.
Excellent Video.... Thank you for sharing it....
Thanks,,good illustration and detail,,
Good job man
Great video. Thanks for sharing…
Great video, thank you for the tips
I might be wrong. but, in the beginning you said put the top of the rifle at the hinge part of the case, and then you flipped it around later, both times you did say heavy part on bottom, wheels, but you did change that, Hell of a good video though.
Thanks man I'm definitely subbing. I wanna be cool like you
Awesome setup
This is a great video. Thank you. One thing though... I've seen a ton of people cut the foam with their ar15 mags laying flat. I'd like to cut the foam like you did.. However... Do the mags stick out the top too much?? I mean is it really putting a indent in the top foam? Also a small pro tip for you, if you'd like. You can lay 7 or 8 pmags flat on the underside foam and cut them in and store 7 mags under the middle foam.
This video addresses the exact issue you mention. If you have another foam layer underneath, you cut into that layer of foam as well after you trace it out.
th-cam.com/video/3rgSis0HAYo/w-d-xo.html
first you stated to have optic at hinge around 8:30 ....then changed your mind to optic near handle if mounted Im a newbie at foam cutting so which is it... anyone? great video just contradictory!
Yep, I noticed the same thing. First he suggested that the weight should be at the hinge.
He said it he was putting his at the hinge first because he was storing his optic in a separate location. If you store your optic detached from the rifle (as he does), you can put top of the rifle at the hinge (looks better) or the handle. I keep all my optics on my rifles so all the tops of mine are at the handle. Some people criticize it saying “it’s upside down”, “looks weird” but he is absolutely correct about protecting that optic. Maybe you won’t ever drop it, but I literally get a new scratch on some piece of luggage every time I fly. Some of my optics are as much as the gun their mounted on. Rather it “look weird” than one day have a damaged optic.
Great video. Thanks! Sick sbr!
GREAT VIDEO
I LOVE the Randy Watson shirts
Thanks and peace
Nice job Brian!