The video is fake, it didn't feature 3 grown men jumping on a long breaker bar and still somehow not get the bb loose because it's welded in there despite having only been installed for 3 months.
If you just use a liberal amount of 3 in 1 oil behind the crank bolt where the spindle meets the crank and wait 24 hours you never have an issue again. Just 3 in 1 oil, 24 hours and a quality crank puller like parks CPW7 which is only $15 and they'll come off every time. Most guys are too stupid or impaitent to use penetrating oil and give it time topenetrate. Granted i imagine there are times when it will still be difficult but I've never experienced any issues even when removing 11 year old cranks that had never been removed.
@@michaelinglis567 well fortunately I've never had any problems with my cranks seizing. It's mostly my bottom bracket shell that seizes. I don't have that problem anymore though, I now run a bike with BB86 even if it seizes you just pound it out lol
It's easy to do if you keep track of repairs and anticipate at least 40% recurring in each load bearing part category. Also you should invest in old filing drawers.
The most important thing I learnt from this, is that the right cup is reverse threaded (clock-wise to undo). Now all I have to do is undo my maximum effort, which has been tightening it!
Most of the time the bottom bracket cups are just loose and the cartridge is perfectly good. If that's the case you'll see the cups move ever so slightly when you rock the pedals side to side. Just take off the crank arm bolts and wipe out behind the bolt then add a generous amount of 3 in 1 oil. Wait 24 hours and then remove the cranks with something like Park Tools CPW7. Then you can take your bottom bracket socket and a torque wrench and snug them to the correct torque. After that you'll have zero wobble. Occasionally I imagine it is a bad cartridge but any time this ever happened to me it was on new (new to me lol) bikes and the cartridge was perfectly fine but the cups had become loose. And it's very satisfying to get your bottom bracket snug and firmly in place. Just dont forget to clean off the old grease and grime and add some new grease. I personally just use Marine grease or buttery grade 2 general purpose grease (the Supertech General Purpose that they sell at Walmart) and it works great where I need grease and 3 in 1 covers pretty much anywhere else. Anyways just wanted to point out that the bb cartridges are sturdy and hold up for a long time. If you're having issues always check that it isnt due to the cups becoming loose first.
i ignored a creak this morning on my way to Malibu😢 I ended up with a cracked bracket😢 20miles away from home, i had to install the pedal every 5 minutes😮💨
Втулка на пром подшипник тема. 2 раза в сезон менял подшипники пока не купил её. Держит нагрузку при любом типе езды. 2 года отъездил, так и продал велик с этой втулкой, у которой не появилось люфта.
@@lovenlife4203 I don't disagree with you. My point was; the level of effort involved here may be worth the extra spend. (At least it would be to me.) 🙂
@@bitgeist21 replacing or overhauling a bottom bracket is a 20 dollar service at my shop because it's super simple and takes 10 to 15 mins. It honestly takes more time to order a new crank lol
@@lovenlife4203 ive had generic hollowtech style cranks and bottom brackets, they never gave me problems. Square tapered crank legs fall off most of the time even with thredlocker blue.
معلش هو لازم يتربط القلب جامد اوى ام عند ربطه او لما يقف الربط او ينشف يبقى مش محتاج ربط تانى لاحسن اللولب يفوت ممكن ايفادة فى موضوع الربط السليم وشكرا انا لسه مبتدئ وبلح كل حاجة بس لسه موضوع معملتش القلب الى انت لسه بتعمله وشكرا❤
I’m realising the chaos of not organising my life/tools translate to hectic repair jobs, stripped nuts, frantically searching for the right tool, grease/lube, whatever adds to how chaotic a repair job gets - resembles how chaotic your tools are.. like in life?
With the smaller square taper spindle, the bearings used are larger diameter than Hollowtech, Octalink or ISIS bottom brackets can use, due to the latter's larger spindle. A quality square taper BB will last longer than the other types of BBs. I like quality caged bearing square taper BBs, even larger bearings than cartridge and can be repacked as needed.
Um. You do realise that external BBs allow bigger bearings while reducing mass? I run SRAM DUB. Guaranteed my groupset weighs less than any square taper and lasts just as long with the same abuse.
@@andrewince8824 Have you worked on a square taper BB? If you had, and you wanted to remove the cage to add more bearings, you'd know that the bearing used is a 1/4" ball or 6.35mm approximately. Have you replaced the 1st generation Hollowtech 2 BB bearings? They use 6805 bearings. The size of the entire bearing cartridge is 37x25x6mm, that includes inner and outer race. The race width is 6mm. The actual ball size of the bearings is approximately 3mm. You my friend have fallen for bike manufacturer's marketing that outboard BB use larger bearings. I don't blame you, they are very good at it. It makes sense in concept that an outboard set bearing is larger than an inside the BB bearings. But in actual usage the Hollowtech 2 ball bearings are not larger than square taper 1/4" caged ball bearings.
@@andrewince8824 "You do realise that external BBs allow bigger bearings while reducing mass?" You'll have to explain this to me. If both bearings are made from steel, bigger bearings means larger mass/weight. I don't know how you're getting around physics? As far as longevity I get 2000 miles of XC riding out of my XT Hollowtech II BBs and Truvativ ISIS BBs. I figure that's about the same as what SRAM has to offer. This is normal conditions riding. I destroyed a XT HT2 BB on a four day trip to Costa Rica that had many river crossings. When I unpacked my bike the week we got back, all of the bearings were seized. The hubs on my wheels as well. "Sealed" cartridge bearings can't be repacked after being submerged. The "seals" are only good for rain and dirt. Granted this is extreme riding for most of us. The one thing about cone & cup bearings is that they can be repacked as necessary. Cartridge bearing have to be thrown out after a trip like I did. A quality Sugino cup/cone BB will last 100K+ miles with repacks every 2k miles. I have a set of (cup/cone) M910 XTR hubs with 50K miles on them that still spin like new. I've had to stop using them because the rim braking surface is worn past the safe point. A quick repack and new rims and they will be good for another 50K. Keith Bontrager once said "strong, light, cheap. Pick two". I'll give you light when it comes to outboard BBs. I use them too, just not for extreme longevity, durability and repairs/repacks. For my touring bike and extreme conditions riding, I use loose ball cup/cone bearings.
@@wcoastbo the bearings are only part of the mass issue. In a cartridge Square Taper (ST) you have the bearings, yes, but also a solid steel spindle. In an external system (EBB) the spindle is larger but entirely hollow allowing for greater strength with less material. This larger diameter also means that while a bearing ring has a greater circumference, it has less material in the middle. We can view this through circle theorem to make it easy to visualise. A BSA standard bb is 1.37" or 34.8mm. Since we need some space for the ST BB cartridge we'll be generous and give that BB and outer diameter of 30mm. The spindle is about 17mm in most cases. We'll assume both the EBB and ST systems use bearings of 10mm width. The ST has a volume of (pi15²)x10, this is 7068.6mm³ but we've got to have a hole. That hole is (pi8.5²)x10. The hole is 2,269.8mm³. Subtracting the hole from the ring gives us a volume of 4,798.8mm³ for a bearing in ST systems. An EBB with a hypothetical 40mm diameter is (pi20²)x10. This offers a volume of 12,566.4mm³ however the hole is, in the DUB system, 29mm. (Pi14.5²)x10. The hole is therefore 6,605.2mm³ knocking that hole out reduces a bearing to 5,961.2mm³. While heavier, this is mated with a lighter spindle and carrier offering an overall reduction in mass. I acknowledge the use of 6.35mm looseballs however they are an increasingly rare system. Most systems are sealed cartridge which are not frequently serviceable. For a general consumer it makes more sense to run EBB systems purely to ensure parts availability long term. The BB is just one piece of a larger ecosystem and like any individual piece it can hold back the rest. With the abundance of direct mount and carbon in cranks, square taper is becoming increasingly heavy by comparison and parts are becoming less diverse as stores try to stock the latest and most desirable parts.
always make sure not to thread a bottom bracket in dry. Otherwise they most propably will seize after a while, especially when it is aluminium paired with steel in one way or the other.
In my country the 3 plates do not have that guide on the side of the plate. The cartridge is only mounted on the separators if they are needed and what you are looking for is that the cartridge has the correct length for the plate and stem.
You more than likely just need to tighten the non drive side. But worst case scenario if the bearings are over worm a new one of the square taper is really cheap
Did that BB wrong. Non drive should be removed first and installed last. Also, square taper and 3x drivetrains are no longer close to worth the hassle. 24mm Hollowtech BBs cost about the same, 12 speed drivetrains with clutches both offer much greater range but also reduced complexity and no dropped chains.
@Taistelu_pelto you can't buy a 3x drivetrain for £35. NX Eagle groupsets are £350. They run way better than 3x. No drivetrain can be called good if it drops the chain over every bumping section and carries twice the weight for less range and just as many functional ratios.
@Taistelu_pelto dude. I dropped £350 on a complete groupset because the 3x8 on my bike was utter shite. Adjustment doesn't improve chain retention, doesn't offer extra range. It just makes it shift slightly less like absolute shit. SRAM Eagle is stronger, smoother and has greater range than a 3x system. And no, 3x is not cheap. The cassette is going to be £20, the derailleur is a further £20, front piece of crap thing is at least £15, shifters at least £30 if you don't want something that'll break in 2 seconds. Then you've got to drop £20 on the BB, £30on some cheap flexible cranks and a further £30 on chainrings. £165 for a more problematic system which won't last half as long as SRAM, Box or Shimano Deore 11/12s systems.
I have an E bike with same BB and magnetic disc near it. Can I replace it with Shimano hollowtech BB and 105 crankset but still keep this magnetic disc near BB so the motor can work? Due to the current chain ring is weared. Cheers
Possibly. Because an external bottom bracket has the bearings outside of the frame compared to the internal cartridge so these can sometimes foul on the sensor or bend it out if the way. Depends on the sensor, if it’s a decent distance away then should be fine.
Can i substitue anything for the green paste stuff you put on the threads? I'm currently broke as hell and im looking for a swap on my crakset and i dont have the paste you put on is there any suggestions you have?
My bike crankset was making hell of sound. So, I went to my near bicycle service shop. He told me that my bottom bracket bearing is gone and I should replace it. So, I replaced it...but only than, when he was replacing it.. he was hit those bracket very hard I didn't understand whyyy...
@@grantkoeller8911 look man, I’ve been working at a bike shop for many years now, also Barnett certified, and you always use anti seize on the crank spindle
Съёмник головку надо фиксировать болтом с шайбой, дабы он не сорвался и не слизал шлицы когда Вы срываете и максимальный момент силы прикладываете. В автомагазинах есть такие длинные болты с мелким шагом резьбы
The right one is killing me right now and I just had to look it up. Turns out it's threaded going the opposite way (righty loosey, lefty thighty). I'm so done with this. 😡
The most important thing I learnt from this, is that the right cup is reverse threaded (clock-wise to undo). Now all I have to do is undo my maximum effort, which has been tightening it!
O preço ficou inimaginável, mas os mesmos terríveis problemas, onde o valor da manutenção será o valor do rins, rins de um pobre kkk. Pois tem diferença de rins, POIS tem diferença de bike, então tudo certo! Mas os problemas são os mesmos. 😅
@@CasperBioS А я то думаю как вы через левую сторону каретку вынимаете. А оказываеться вы имели ввиду про расконтрить. Ну я бы сказл в даной каретке особо небыло смысла расконтривать левую чашку. Так как был люфт большой, ну и с правой стороны под чашкой была пластина под датчик каденса. А если ни чего это го небыло то конечно. Начинать с левой чашки ( расконтрить ) ну потом уже с право вытаскивать. С левой соторны ослабить.
I’ve had 4 bikes in my life 2 mtb and route only for city use and exercising every 80 to 100 klm of use chain change and ect but that of the crown has always happened to me ahahaha 😢😢 I think the Bicycles don’t love me lol
The video is fake, it didn't feature 3 grown men jumping on a long breaker bar and still somehow not get the bb loose because it's welded in there despite having only been installed for 3 months.
Haha 😂😂 yeah and using flame throwers on it too
If you just use a liberal amount of 3 in 1 oil behind the crank bolt where the spindle meets the crank and wait 24 hours you never have an issue again. Just 3 in 1 oil, 24 hours and a quality crank puller like parks CPW7 which is only $15 and they'll come off every time. Most guys are too stupid or impaitent to use penetrating oil and give it time topenetrate. Granted i imagine there are times when it will still be difficult but I've never experienced any issues even when removing 11 year old cranks that had never been removed.
@@michaelinglis567 well fortunately I've never had any problems with my cranks seizing. It's mostly my bottom bracket shell that seizes. I don't have that problem anymore though, I now run a bike with BB86 even if it seizes you just pound it out lol
No joke 3x grown Welsh men used a bench grip and turned the bike instead
@@yali1408 hahahha blowtorch for 25 second bursts.
Boy! I wish I had a drawer full of spare bottom brackets!
@enriqueamaya3883AND HE WILL GIVE THEE ENDLESS BOTTOM BRACKETS.......
Will Jesus Christ give me a drawer full of bottom brackets if I pray hard enough?
It's easy to do if you keep track of repairs and anticipate at least 40% recurring in each load bearing part category. Also you should invest in old filing drawers.
Boy, you must've grown up poor, our bottom bracket drawer was right below the forks & knives.
Just look and see if there's a community bike shop or collective in your area
The most important thing I learnt from this, is that the right cup is reverse threaded (clock-wise to undo). Now all I have to do is undo my maximum effort, which has been tightening it!
Thats what I saw too, but seems weird. Pedalling forward the friction would loosen the BB holder I think.
Tighter toward the front..
@@gerrysecure5874it's to do with precession... One circle rotating within another. It's counterintuitive initially!
Most of the time the bottom bracket cups are just loose and the cartridge is perfectly good. If that's the case you'll see the cups move ever so slightly when you rock the pedals side to side. Just take off the crank arm bolts and wipe out behind the bolt then add a generous amount of 3 in 1 oil. Wait 24 hours and then remove the cranks with something like Park Tools CPW7. Then you can take your bottom bracket socket and a torque wrench and snug them to the correct torque. After that you'll have zero wobble. Occasionally I imagine it is a bad cartridge but any time this ever happened to me it was on new (new to me lol) bikes and the cartridge was perfectly fine but the cups had become loose. And it's very satisfying to get your bottom bracket snug and firmly in place. Just dont forget to clean off the old grease and grime and add some new grease. I personally just use Marine grease or buttery grade 2 general purpose grease (the Supertech General Purpose that they sell at Walmart) and it works great where I need grease and 3 in 1 covers pretty much anywhere else. Anyways just wanted to point out that the bb cartridges are sturdy and hold up for a long time. If you're having issues always check that it isnt due to the cups becoming loose first.
You're right, bro.
That right up was way more useful than this video thanks for putting time in to write it that’s exactly what mine needed.
wow
Very true. It's always worthwhile taking it all apart though, rather than just tightening up. Loose cups let in dirt which needs to be cleaned.
👍 совершенно верно
Really good video. No wasting time. Very quickly reminded how it's done
i ignored a creak this morning on my way to Malibu😢 I ended up with a cracked bracket😢 20miles away from home, i had to install the pedal every 5 minutes😮💨
That's me now the pedal arm keeps coming off every 5 mins
@@d-chudasama get a new pair of bottom brackets at your bike shop, save one
Втулка на пром подшипник тема. 2 раза в сезон менял подшипники пока не купил её. Держит нагрузку при любом типе езды. 2 года отъездил, так и продал велик с этой втулкой, у которой не появилось люфта.
This is exactly problem on my bike. Thanks for preview what needs to be done👍
Superbe vidéo. Nette, claire et précise
Podia utilizar o torquímetro, também para os apertos dos cranks!
Затяни потуже
Gracias para El comentário. Yo estoy en Mexico. Es muy difícil a comprar partes solo con nombres Ingleses.
Why go through all the trouble? Replace the square taper and crank with a proper BSA bottom bracket and crankset...
20 dollar part vs $200+ is kinda a no brainer
@@lovenlife4203 I don't disagree with you. My point was; the level of effort involved here may be worth the extra spend. (At least it would be to me.) 🙂
It's a Suntour BB. The bike is probably not worth the upgrade.
@@bitgeist21 replacing or overhauling a bottom bracket is a 20 dollar service at my shop because it's super simple and takes 10 to 15 mins. It honestly takes more time to order a new crank lol
@@lovenlife4203 ive had generic hollowtech style cranks and bottom brackets, they never gave me problems. Square tapered crank legs fall off most of the time even with thredlocker blue.
Судя по видео люфт был не в подшипниках. Сама каретка в раме болталась
Может быть. Но. Тут как бы инструкция без ля, ля, ля на целыи час.
@@timurakimov9877 инструкция как поставить помойку на новую каретку, звёзды грязные воткнул😂
معلش هو لازم يتربط القلب جامد اوى ام عند ربطه او لما يقف الربط او ينشف يبقى مش محتاج ربط تانى لاحسن اللولب يفوت ممكن ايفادة فى موضوع الربط السليم وشكرا انا لسه مبتدئ وبلح كل حاجة بس لسه موضوع معملتش القلب الى انت لسه بتعمله وشكرا❤
I’m realising the chaos of not organising my life/tools translate to hectic repair jobs, stripped nuts, frantically searching for the right tool, grease/lube, whatever adds to how chaotic a repair job gets - resembles how chaotic your tools are.. like in life?
Nothing like torquing those bolts up to the right settings eh. Satisfying 😂
I still can't get mine off my aluminum frame, even with a bottom bracket tool, chisel and ball point hammer.😅
Same situation, right now
With the smaller square taper spindle, the bearings used are larger diameter than Hollowtech, Octalink or ISIS bottom brackets can use, due to the latter's larger spindle. A quality square taper BB will last longer than the other types of BBs. I like quality caged bearing square taper BBs, even larger bearings than cartridge and can be repacked as needed.
Crupi
Um. You do realise that external BBs allow bigger bearings while reducing mass? I run SRAM DUB. Guaranteed my groupset weighs less than any square taper and lasts just as long with the same abuse.
@@andrewince8824 Have you worked on a square taper BB? If you had, and you wanted to remove the cage to add more bearings, you'd know that the bearing used is a 1/4" ball or 6.35mm approximately.
Have you replaced the 1st generation Hollowtech 2 BB bearings? They use 6805 bearings. The size of the entire bearing cartridge is 37x25x6mm, that includes inner and outer race. The race width is 6mm. The actual ball size of the bearings is approximately 3mm.
You my friend have fallen for bike manufacturer's marketing that outboard BB use larger bearings. I don't blame you, they are very good at it. It makes sense in concept that an outboard set bearing is larger than an inside the BB bearings. But in actual usage the Hollowtech 2 ball bearings are not larger than square taper 1/4" caged ball bearings.
@@andrewince8824 "You do realise that external BBs allow bigger bearings while reducing mass?" You'll have to explain this to me. If both bearings are made from steel, bigger bearings means larger mass/weight. I don't know how you're getting around physics?
As far as longevity I get 2000 miles of XC riding out of my XT Hollowtech II BBs and Truvativ ISIS BBs. I figure that's about the same as what SRAM has to offer. This is normal conditions riding. I destroyed a XT HT2 BB on a four day trip to Costa Rica that had many river crossings. When I unpacked my bike the week we got back, all of the bearings were seized.
The hubs on my wheels as well. "Sealed" cartridge bearings can't be repacked after being submerged. The "seals" are only good for rain and dirt. Granted this is extreme riding for most of us. The one thing about cone & cup bearings is that they can be repacked as necessary.
Cartridge bearing have to be thrown out after a trip like I did. A quality Sugino cup/cone BB will last 100K+ miles with repacks every 2k miles. I have a set of (cup/cone) M910 XTR hubs with 50K miles on them that still spin like new. I've had to stop using them because the rim braking surface is worn past the safe point. A quick repack and new rims and they will be good for another 50K.
Keith Bontrager once said "strong, light, cheap. Pick two". I'll give you light when it comes to outboard BBs. I use them too, just not for extreme longevity, durability and repairs/repacks. For my touring bike and extreme conditions riding, I use loose ball cup/cone bearings.
@@wcoastbo the bearings are only part of the mass issue. In a cartridge Square Taper (ST) you have the bearings, yes, but also a solid steel spindle. In an external system (EBB) the spindle is larger but entirely hollow allowing for greater strength with less material. This larger diameter also means that while a bearing ring has a greater circumference, it has less material in the middle. We can view this through circle theorem to make it easy to visualise. A BSA standard bb is 1.37" or 34.8mm. Since we need some space for the ST BB cartridge we'll be generous and give that BB and outer diameter of 30mm. The spindle is about 17mm in most cases. We'll assume both the EBB and ST systems use bearings of 10mm width. The ST has a volume of (pi15²)x10, this is 7068.6mm³ but we've got to have a hole. That hole is (pi8.5²)x10. The hole is 2,269.8mm³. Subtracting the hole from the ring gives us a volume of 4,798.8mm³ for a bearing in ST systems.
An EBB with a hypothetical 40mm diameter is (pi20²)x10. This offers a volume of 12,566.4mm³ however the hole is, in the DUB system, 29mm. (Pi14.5²)x10. The hole is therefore 6,605.2mm³ knocking that hole out reduces a bearing to 5,961.2mm³. While heavier, this is mated with a lighter spindle and carrier offering an overall reduction in mass.
I acknowledge the use of 6.35mm looseballs however they are an increasingly rare system. Most systems are sealed cartridge which are not frequently serviceable.
For a general consumer it makes more sense to run EBB systems purely to ensure parts availability long term.
The BB is just one piece of a larger ecosystem and like any individual piece it can hold back the rest. With the abundance of direct mount and carbon in cranks, square taper is becoming increasingly heavy by comparison and parts are becoming less diverse as stores try to stock the latest and most desirable parts.
always make sure not to thread a bottom bracket in dry.
Otherwise they most propably will seize after a while, especially when it is aluminium paired with steel in one way or the other.
Id rather replace it with a hollowtech instead. Less headaches.
Then give me money, seems like giveawaying your money will also be less headache
Not sure but I think his pedal assist sensor requires this type of BB to work properly
Why clean the spindle?
In my country the 3 plates do not have that guide on the side of the plate. The cartridge is only mounted on the separators if they are needed and what you are looking for is that the cartridge has the correct length for the plate and stem.
A very efficient system,however the crank bearing shaft should be lighter
I don’t know why this is like asmr to me 😂
i had to remove my crank with an angle grinder and destroy my bearing in the process
Oh how i miss the days of a simple cotter pin
These are the skills that will be needed in space travel, not astrologers. Ironic.
Obrigado
Best channel on TH-cam. Thank you!!!
Bro got the sr suntour cranks
That’s literally the problem I have with my bike right now
I have 2 bike and both have it. I need to measure it to buy one and send it to a mechanic to install it
You more than likely just need to tighten the non drive side. But worst case scenario if the bearings are over worm a new one of the square taper is really cheap
Did that BB wrong. Non drive should be removed first and installed last.
Also, square taper and 3x drivetrains are no longer close to worth the hassle. 24mm Hollowtech BBs cost about the same, 12 speed drivetrains with clutches both offer much greater range but also reduced complexity and no dropped chains.
@Taistelu_pelto you can't buy a 3x drivetrain for £35. NX Eagle groupsets are £350. They run way better than 3x. No drivetrain can be called good if it drops the chain over every bumping section and carries twice the weight for less range and just as many functional ratios.
@Taistelu_pelto dude. I dropped £350 on a complete groupset because the 3x8 on my bike was utter shite. Adjustment doesn't improve chain retention, doesn't offer extra range. It just makes it shift slightly less like absolute shit.
SRAM Eagle is stronger, smoother and has greater range than a 3x system. And no, 3x is not cheap. The cassette is going to be £20, the derailleur is a further £20, front piece of crap thing is at least £15, shifters at least £30 if you don't want something that'll break in 2 seconds. Then you've got to drop £20 on the BB, £30on some cheap flexible cranks and a further £30 on chainrings. £165 for a more problematic system which won't last half as long as SRAM, Box or Shimano Deore 11/12s systems.
NX Eagle dosen't have more range than 3x drivetrain.
@@thorn6809 except it has better practical range and actually uses it.
Просто поджать и кататься дальше, подшипники были еще целые...
Is it safe to ride if I can't get serviced and wobbly bb, or, wobbly crank arms? Not bad, just a little give or play.
Why cleaning the square shaft prior disassembly?
I have an E bike with same BB and magnetic disc near it. Can I replace it with Shimano hollowtech BB and 105 crankset but still keep this magnetic disc near BB so the motor can work? Due to the current chain ring is weared. Cheers
it is the same size, means it should work.
Possibly. Because an external bottom bracket has the bearings outside of the frame compared to the internal cartridge so these can sometimes foul on the sensor or bend it out if the way. Depends on the sensor, if it’s a decent distance away then should be fine.
I also replaced bottom bracket, Does rain 🌧️ affects the bracket?
I've welded a same diameter pipe to nut of cartridge to deinstall. Wrench as in video is useless to screw off.
Can i substitue anything for the green paste stuff you put on the threads? I'm currently broke as hell and im looking for a swap on my crakset and i dont have the paste you put on is there any suggestions you have?
What are these tools call I need the first two that’s used to take apart my dad’s bike
I don't get why clean the old one you're removing?
to show us the damage or make sure the wrench doesnt slip away/gets damage by old grease and dirts
So it's ready to be used straight away when a REALLY worn one comes in for repair..
Uh that was great ,but can you do the same thing with the older fsr please
Copper paste between steel and aluminum is pretty much the stupidest thing you can do.
I've only used copper grease on steel to steel on cars. It's possible it could increase conductivity between the two metals.
Where does he get these wonderful tools?
Satisfatório d+
Why not change to hollowtech bb
squared tapered is more durable
@@PunxTV123 isnt it more prone to maintenance and considering the weight? Thanks
Wouldn’t be able to fit the crank sensor on Hollowtech cranks, looks like an ebike.
@@fergusgodsill4039 oh ok. Thanks
@@melcredo squared taper will maintenance after many years of use while hollowtech it need to maintenance like couple months…
My bottom bracket sheared in half one day on a ride on my $900 Trek Marlin junk
Am i in danger if I ride w slightly wobbly crank arms? Can't get fixed today
“Buy another one”
Technically yes. The thing is, this bearing is non-serviceable. The only way to repair it is to replace it.
Puts the crank back on with the sprockets rusted to shit. Oh my daze.
My bike crankset was making hell of sound. So, I went to my near bicycle service shop. He told me that my bottom bracket bearing is gone and I should replace it. So, I replaced it...but only than, when he was replacing it.. he was hit those bracket very hard I didn't understand whyyy...
Thank GOD for innovation!😂
Brother that shaft do you recommend me sealed shaft or Hollowtech shaft 😮
There is your problem right there....they are Suntour cranks
Removing a cartridge style just to replace with another cartridge style? Why
Thanks TH-cam, Google. That is exactly my eje de Pedeler's problème.
Why are all bearings on your bike shot to hell?
What tools are you using?
Bb axle remover and and crank puller, there are many varieties for crank puller
How much does it cost
Too much.
A new square taper is like 18$ usd
Se cambian los rodamientos por zzcr y listo,no los necesitas cambiar más nunca
What's the name of the green thing on the video
Relaxing video. Why? No talking.
Or obnoxious music.
Never grease square taper bottom bracket axel!!! You could split crank arm.
you must be using some crappy cranks then… you grease them so they don’t seize… seized cranks are never fun to get off
@@RealJawnes Do you know Sheldon Brown? Square taper axel and crank or crank arm are installed dry, no grease!
@@RealJawnes my 1972 Campy neuvo record crank is top of the line,best of the best, nothing finer!
You use a Campy crank puller,
@@grantkoeller8911 look man, I’ve been working at a bike shop for many years now, also Barnett certified, and you always use anti seize on the crank spindle
Every removal of a square taper bottom bracket is an opportunity to replace it with something else!!
Can't believe people other than classic bike restorers use the old square tapers in 2023.
Thought he was gonna play back in black
Very unrealistic. It's missing the part where you turn it the wrong way
В каретке подшипники меняются за 10 минут. Стоят копейки.
Съёмник головку надо фиксировать болтом с шайбой, дабы он не сорвался и не слизал шлицы когда Вы срываете и максимальный момент силы прикладываете. В автомагазинах есть такие длинные болты с мелким шагом резьбы
Awesome
If i were you would change it to hollowtech
I have the same problem 😢
The right one is killing me right now and I just had to look it up. Turns out it's threaded going the opposite way (righty loosey, lefty thighty). I'm so done with this. 😡
The most important thing I learnt from this, is that the right cup is reverse threaded (clock-wise to undo). Now all I have to do is undo my maximum effort, which has been tightening it!
@@simon4043 I did the same thing, luckily I had an impact power drill handy 😉
O preço ficou inimaginável, mas os mesmos terríveis problemas, onde o valor da manutenção será o valor do rins, rins de um pobre kkk. Pois tem diferença de rins, POIS tem diferença de bike, então tudo certo! Mas os problemas são os mesmos. 😅
Is that the same tool for removing cassettes?
No, slightly different
ii have oktalink Halowtech, no pres :) :)
Mines broke after going 300miles up hill
Excelente información.
Если и эта сантур, то скоро опять менять придется.
Интересует, что за перчатки
what grease did you use ?
price?
Hat er das wircklich handfest angezogen ? Was stimmt mit ihm nicht
Чем вы смазываете резьбу? Какой-то специальной смазкой?
Чтобы потом легче было откручивать. Из-за коррозий резьба сплавиться, поэтому мажут туда смазку
@@minhhieudang7951 а какую? Обычную как и для подшипников, или какая-то специальная есть?
@@artemandriyanov6213 та любая, предпочитаю степень жидкости nlgl-3
Я мажу графиткой...
Ese sistema es centro de cuadradillo no Botonbrake
По рукам надовать этому мастеру! Ни кто каретку через правую сторону не снимает! Чтоб больше такого shit'а не выкладывал!
Каретку через левую сторону надо вытаскивать? Да?
@@evgeny21099 слева расконтрить, справа вытащить
@@CasperBioS А я то думаю как вы через левую сторону каретку вынимаете. А оказываеться вы имели ввиду про расконтрить.
Ну я бы сказл в даной каретке особо небыло смысла расконтривать левую чашку. Так как был люфт большой, ну и с правой стороны под чашкой была пластина под датчик каденса.
А если ни чего это го небыло то конечно. Начинать с левой чашки ( расконтрить ) ну потом уже с право вытаскивать.
С левой соторны ослабить.
Did you know that this part will need 50 Nm no wonder if it breaks
Пыльник не предусмотрен конструкцией?)
Не. Там закрытые подшипники ставятся.
Это говорит о том что не надо ездить на педалях стоя
Or just upgrade the cranks to a hollowtech
You are gonna give us money?
Yeah I mean those decent cartridges are more than buying a hollow tech and bb these days
@@glennoc8585 yep
А на стингере чашки пластиковые и их не открутишь.зубья крошатся
BB king
Muy bien, pero el plato no lo has limpiado
Good for another 20+ years
Nice😏
É melhor utilizar chave dinamómetro
Szaju kto w dzisiejszych czasach kozysta jeszcze z kwadratu to juz zabytek 😅
А там разве пыльников быть не должно?
I’ve had 4 bikes in my life 2 mtb and route only for city use and exercising every 80 to 100 klm of use chain change and ect but that of the crown has always happened to me ahahaha 😢😢 I think the
Bicycles don’t love me lol
its about your weight 😂
this actually happened to me
Каретка разбирается с левой стороны. 🤦
Какая разница?
Suntour still exists?
it is not the same company as in the past.
the name was sold.
Tak ma być, ten luz to pracujący amortyzator w suporcie