wow you're sooooo coooool , you could make stuffed that is actually pretty hard to understand become very understandable for non civil-engineer. You have my respect sir.
Thanks for the great video, it was great, especially the silane sealers part, another innovation that I didn't hear about! Tell me more about it please, like what's its properties?
Question: is there any potential in using large precast box culverts and other shapes to create houses or other kinds of buildings? Why should the shipping container repurposing people get all the glory?
In my city, Jeddah, KSA, there are old buildings that were built +300 years ago by the Ottoman empire. This not the problem... But the problem is that they mixed concrete with CORAL REEFS, which I was going to discuss with you some day. Keep up the good work, Dr. Ley.
1If water/cement ratio is 5cm and lower than 5cm , it will be a long lasting 100 years mass concrete.2.Surface Saturated Dry concrete surface before casting. 1 and 2 are are secrets of bonding as well especially at dam construction joints to be impermeable.
Wow, in my part of AUS tennancy law states a crack needs no attention (read: do nothing) until such time as you can insert your fist (or about 6 inches wide) landlords love this one to avoid fixing any large air leak and in some cases massive daylight gaps. I have a friend who has a massive hole in her wall stuffed with junk mail and packing tape because of this.
maybe in your next video talk about "FUNGUS embeded in concrete"...i read an article about fungus healing the concrete crack... thank you for sharing knowledge ;)
Your videos are very informative as usual. How about a concrete which can potentially last for 500-1000 years. With the use of SCMs and FRC, can the life of concrete be extended to several hundred years?
Hasan - If you were in the right environment then I think we could make concrete last that long. If you are in an extreme environment then I think you can still make it last for 200ish years. You would need fibers and SCMs and a few more tricks but I think it is possible. =) Thanks so much for the comment.
hi dr Ley.i make concrete tiles and gfrc slabs with only silica sand as filler.what should I do to minimize and eliminate the surface air bubbles? when I use pozzolanic materials, i get better results, but there are still few holes on the surface.i got the best result from combining silica fume and metkaolin as a percentage alternative to Portland cement.which of the pozzolans or the combination of which one has the best performance in improving the shape of the decorative concretes? Can a combination of three or four pozzolans be used in the mixing design and what percentage? what's your opinion and suggestion?what is the result of using polymer and defoamer and what kind of polymer? is high blaine cement use effective in reducing bubbles and holes on surface?and what should be done in general to produce a better, better-looking product?NOTE:I USE FROM VIBRATION.thank you for your attention dr ,and your excitement is exciting and interesting in videos.like the soccer reporter.
Hamid, Look for a video on this soon. If you could email me some pictures that would be great. If you could use higher amounts of pozzolan then this will reduce these issues. I would try 40 to 50% slag if you have access to it. You could also use 40% fly ash but be very careful as it has to be the right kind of fly ash. I have never tried silica fume and metakaolin together.
Wow! Thanks for the reply! I’m an old fart (74), but I like to think I still have a youthful curiosity. I’ll be checking out ALL of your videos. The “data to noise” ratio is very, very good!
Hey Tyler, I have a concrete driveway that was brown cement overlay ed, most of the overlay has worn off. What is the best way/procedure to restore the overlay? Also to the people who a giving the thumbs down, get a concrete life.
I have an inground pool that is over 60 years old. It's been cracking about 1 ft down from the top, the inside of the pool. I've had it repaired too many times & the cracks keep coming back. How does on fix this problem?
We have a 12" reinforced concrete floor in our building. Over the years from running tracked construction equipment in one area it has some deep wear spots. They really wouldn't be a problem except that it is in our motor vehicle inspection area and the state has some regulations about the floor being in good condition and right now it's kind of iffy. Short of cutting it out and removing the bad areas then pouring a new floor, is there a good way to fix it?
What about the pressure-capacity of the silane? If I cast a concrete-water-tank, how much water can I put in, before the water forces its way through the silane-barrier into the concrete?
How well it withstands aging is also depending strongly on the climate it is exposed to. When it comes to sealing - how about combining different sealings with one that penetrates well and then another that protects the penetrating one from aging? Oxidizing oils that penetrates the concrete is also something that is used, but it will require the concrete to be dry.
Good idea! I have not had a lot of luck with surface sealers. They either get damaged or debond from the surface. I know there are exceptions and some people probably have had good experiences but I have not. = /
Tyler, thanks! just found your channel. Studying now, building a castle in a few years. Looking to make it last 100 y +. Any thoughts on graphine oxide or Helix SS mini twisted rebar?
That's actually been a childhood dream of mine and guided me to becoming a bricklayer (currently going through apprenticeship). Right now I'm trying to find decent acreage and resources. Have you seen Guedelon Castle? Interesting project for sure, but my vision would incorporate modern amenities like indoor plumbing and refrigeration. What about yours?
Beer in mix air entrainment improved. Temperature variation expansion contraction cracks will reoccur regardless of filler. Filler must be elastic enough not to just fracture again and allow water to enter and freeze blowing out concrete at joint. Silane the trick and no salt...
Allan, I think he is focused on aerated concrete. I need to finish a video on it. It can be good in certain applications but I don't think it should be used for everything.
@@TylerLey Sir, We can use fibers for concrete pavements to arrest the small cracks. For larger crack width, we can use pressure grouting to fill the cracks.
Thanks professor. Now do I grout expansion joints that are being pushed apart by the freeze thaw effect in the sidewalk or something else? Densifier or no before the silane sealer?
@@TylerLey Thank you, in a nut shell you just answered many questions. Most of the concrete in question is 50+ yrs old. While not in bad shape some portions are showing course aggregate. So I'll skip the densifiers, and silane seal when it's been warm and dry for better than a week. In the mean time grout the the open joints and few stone spauls.
During the curing process, it helps keep the concrete cool which will yield a stronger ultimate compressive strength. The slower the curing process, the better it is for the final product. Water on concrete after it has fully attained 28 days strength is a bad thing because water can seep through the concrete. There are a lot of bad factors. Water can seep through cracks and cause rust, and rust can cause expansion.
Your video talks about waterproofing treatments applied to the cured concrete, so I have to ask, what about waterproofing admixtures? If silane on regular concrete is good, wouldn't silane on concrete made with waterproofing be better?
Tyler Ley I have used Metamax extensively instead of flyash - in tropical sun the concrete turns white over a few years. Would be good if you could cover non-flyash SCM's.
I have some here: th-cam.com/video/0wOCn7smmIs/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/VOIq5SFDWvc/w-d-xo.html I need to do more on metakaolin and natural pozzolans. We just don't have much of it in my area and so I don't get to use it that much in my research.
100 years seems... super lowball? The Romans clearly did far better, and they mostly weren't even working off the scientific method, at least not formally. (Roman pro tip: just don't use rebar, lol). I suppose the more interesting question is something like "If you were the autocratic ruler of America with a mandate of infrastructure development & a practically infinite budget, how long could you make said infrastructure last using modern technology?" Where is the realistic sweet spot, where a society would get the best TCO? I know modern politicians trend towards "cheap now, who cares I'm not in office later!" and thus our planning reflects that...but IIRC the Hoover Dam has an expected lifespan of literally millennia, and that was built the 1930's. Does building a bridge or road with such a serious multi-century to millennia lifespan make sense?
We don't get to see all the bad roman concrete, because it's long gone. Likely the stuff that lasted until today needed some luck in addition to skill. Making your concrete last that long as a matter of course is much harder, I presume.
Ric - As Plagic Siren points out we don't see the Roman concrete that didn't make it. We only see the ones that did. These are the ones in very mild environments. If you use steel reinforcing - which I think is critical for surviving extreme events such as earthquakes, tornados, over loads, etc. - then I think 200 years is possible for a bridge deck in an extreme environment for not much more cost than we use today. These videos are focused on providing people tips on how to improve their concrete projects without significant cost increase. These are no brainers but people should use these tips to make what they are doing now as best as possible. The Hoover Dam is constantly being maintained and inspected. Any issue that forms is addressed right away. Even with all this attention that structure is aging quickly and will need to be replaced. If cost was not an option then polyester concrete would be what I would use. That stuff will last 100s of years.
I could not find a video about spans for new floor levels designed inside a new home. Thanks Tyler
Wow took algorithm long enough to recommend you. Subscribe right away.
Thanks for switching to grey backgrounds. Much easier on the eyes.
Thanks for noticing!
Tyler Ley yes, The gray background is much better for me as well. And I’m greatly enjoying your videos.
I am an IT student and for some reason found an interest in concrete and construction after watching your videos
I can't believe I'm watching shows on concrete, but thanks for the info and great videos.
Great Dr tyler
I made a small concrete bridge using four concrete pipes with concrete slab on top. Used the crown slope and it keeps the bridge dry
wow you're sooooo coooool , you could make stuffed that is actually pretty hard to understand become very understandable for non civil-engineer. You have my respect sir.
Thanks so much!
Thanks for the great video, it was great, especially the silane sealers part, another innovation that I didn't hear about! Tell me more about it please, like what's its properties?
God bless this channel
Thank you Tyler. Great content.
Thank you!
Question: is there any potential in using large precast box culverts and other shapes to create houses or other kinds of buildings? Why should the shipping container repurposing people get all the glory?
In my city, Jeddah, KSA, there are old buildings that were built +300 years ago by the Ottoman empire. This not the problem... But the problem is that they mixed concrete with CORAL REEFS, which I was going to discuss with you some day. Keep up the good work, Dr. Ley.
Thanks Ann! Looking forward to the discussion.
Nice video, I would of thought you would look at protection of the rebar eg cp systems, corrosion inhibitors and anti-carbonation coatings.
1If water/cement ratio is 5cm and lower than 5cm , it will be a long lasting 100 years mass concrete.2.Surface Saturated Dry concrete surface before casting. 1 and 2 are are secrets of bonding as well especially at dam construction joints to be impermeable.
Great info! Thank you for your videos!
Thank you for the comment!!!
Wow, in my part of AUS tennancy law states a crack needs no attention (read: do nothing) until such time as you can insert your fist (or about 6 inches wide) landlords love this one to avoid fixing any large air leak and in some cases massive daylight gaps. I have a friend who has a massive hole in her wall stuffed with junk mail and packing tape because of this.
maybe in your next video talk about "FUNGUS embeded in concrete"...i read an article about fungus healing the concrete crack...
thank you for sharing knowledge ;)
Your videos are very informative as usual. How about a concrete which can potentially last for 500-1000 years. With the use of SCMs and FRC, can the life of concrete be extended to several hundred years?
Hasan -
If you were in the right environment then I think we could make concrete last that long. If you are in an extreme environment then I think you can still make it last for 200ish years. You would need fibers and SCMs and a few more tricks but I think it is possible. =) Thanks so much for the comment.
Can you reference All your ACI CODE mentioned this will help alot.......
can you do a video on how to waterproof concrete flat terrace...?
hi dr Ley.i make concrete tiles and gfrc slabs with only silica sand as filler.what should I do to minimize and eliminate the surface air bubbles? when I use pozzolanic materials, i get better results, but there are still few holes on the surface.i got the best result from combining silica fume and metkaolin as a percentage alternative to Portland cement.which of the pozzolans or the combination of which one has the best performance in improving the shape of the decorative concretes? Can a combination of three or four pozzolans be used in the mixing design and what percentage? what's your opinion and suggestion?what is the result of using polymer and defoamer and what kind of polymer? is high blaine cement use effective in reducing bubbles and holes on surface?and what should be done in general to produce a better, better-looking product?NOTE:I USE FROM VIBRATION.thank you for your attention dr ,and your excitement is exciting and interesting in videos.like the soccer reporter.
Hamid,
Look for a video on this soon. If you could email me some pictures that would be great. If you could use higher amounts of pozzolan then this will reduce these issues. I would try 40 to 50% slag if you have access to it. You could also use 40% fly ash but be very careful as it has to be the right kind of fly ash. I have never tried silica fume and metakaolin together.
Thanks for this video. As I know ACI 318 has not any recommendations about crack width, where can we found out recommended value 0.03 inches?
Where I live, snow and ice build nice dams on the edge of sloped sidewalks. . . So much for design, especially during the “January Thaw”. . .
Thanks Bram. That is a lot of ice.
Wow! Thanks for the reply! I’m an old fart (74), but I like to think I still have a youthful curiosity. I’ll be checking out ALL of your videos. The “data to noise” ratio is very, very good!
Thanks Bram!!!
Another great video on how to make your investment last longer!
Thanks Spikes!
Hey Tyler, I have a concrete driveway that was brown cement overlay ed, most of the overlay has worn off. What is the best way/procedure to restore the overlay? Also to the people who a giving the thumbs down, get a concrete life.
❔❔❔
Does a "French Drain System"
for a drive way help / worth it?
Thanks.
Great Video!!
Thanks!
I have an inground pool that is over 60 years old. It's been cracking about 1 ft down from the top, the inside of the pool. I've had it repaired too many times & the cracks keep coming back. How does on fix this problem?
Tyler the sealer you link below IS water based, yet you prefer non water based???
We have a 12" reinforced concrete floor in our building. Over the years from running tracked construction equipment in one area it has some deep wear spots. They really wouldn't be a problem except that it is in our motor vehicle inspection area and the state has some regulations about the floor being in good condition and right now it's kind of iffy. Short of cutting it out and removing the bad areas then pouring a new floor, is there a good way to fix it?
Cindy,
You could try and patch it with a non shrink grout. I would have to see pictures of it.
Use 3/8 stone in the concrete next time not 3/4" (20mm).
What about the pressure-capacity of the silane? If I cast a concrete-water-tank, how much water can I put in, before the water forces its way through the silane-barrier into the concrete?
How well it withstands aging is also depending strongly on the climate it is exposed to.
When it comes to sealing - how about combining different sealings with one that penetrates well and then another that protects the penetrating one from aging? Oxidizing oils that penetrates the concrete is also something that is used, but it will require the concrete to be dry.
Good idea! I have not had a lot of luck with surface sealers. They either get damaged or debond from the surface. I know there are exceptions and some people probably have had good experiences but I have not. = /
Tyler, thanks! just found your channel. Studying now, building a castle in a few years. Looking to make it last 100 y +.
Any thoughts on graphine oxide or Helix SS mini twisted rebar?
That's actually been a childhood dream of mine and guided me to becoming a bricklayer (currently going through apprenticeship). Right now I'm trying to find decent acreage and resources. Have you seen Guedelon Castle? Interesting project for sure, but my vision would incorporate modern amenities like indoor plumbing and refrigeration. What about yours?
NICE, I had that same idea. Put some videos of your castle on your channel
Beer in mix air entrainment improved.
Temperature variation expansion contraction cracks will reoccur regardless of filler. Filler must be elastic enough not to just fracture again and allow water to enter and freeze blowing out concrete at joint.
Silane the trick and no salt...
Any opinion on the advice given in the "Honey Do Carpenter" channel? He's a big fan of air entrained concrete.
Allan,
I think he is focused on aerated concrete. I need to finish a video on it. It can be good in certain applications but I don't think it should be used for everything.
How deep is this Silane applied on the surface?
Thanks dr tyler. Keep it on 😉
Thanks Hamza!
Tyler Ley How about an article on self-healing concrete?
How does the crystal based product called Xypex compare to Silane?
Good video sir...
Thanks!
@@TylerLey Sir, We can use fibers for concrete pavements to arrest the small cracks. For larger crack width, we can use pressure grouting to fill the cracks.
Hi Tyler. Thanks for another great video. Are you aware of any issues to be aware of when considering sealers for air entrained concrete?
Not that I know of.
What type of deicing products do you recommend that is safe for concrete?
Your voice sounds exactly like Bob odenkirk
And parts of this video, it really felt like Saul Goodman was teaching me about concrete.
What about concrete ponds?
Do you use xylene
to clean silane tools ?
Silanes and siloxanes have been the standard for some time. What do you think about dual crystaline sealants? Any benefits over traditional sealants?
I have never tested them and so I am not sure.
is siline economic for building and bridge project
The silane product that you recommend is water based. Do you know of any that 'still' use alcohol?
isn't it just the SX5000 (he links to SX5000WB and I presume WB means water based)?
Wouldn't painting the concrete give the same protection?
Thumbnail made me think that my screen was cracked.
2 degree slope or 2 % slope?
Be sure to checkout 1000 years old Geopolymer at th-cam.com/video/0Q1f0YBm4ic/w-d-xo.html
Thanks professor. Now do I grout expansion joints that are being pushed apart by the freeze thaw effect in the sidewalk or something else? Densifier or no before the silane sealer?
Scooter - I would need a lot more info before I could give you a recommendation. Densifiers are fine if they are applied early in hydration.
@@TylerLey Thank you, in a nut shell you just answered many questions. Most of the concrete in question is 50+ yrs old. While not in bad shape some portions are showing course aggregate. So I'll skip the densifiers, and silane seal when it's been warm and dry for better than a week. In the mean time grout the the open joints and few stone spauls.
Tyler
Why is water good for concrete when we are curing but later becomes the enemy ?
During the curing process, it helps keep the concrete cool which will yield a stronger ultimate compressive strength. The slower the curing process, the better it is for the final product.
Water on concrete after it has fully attained 28 days strength is a bad thing because water can seep through the concrete. There are a lot of bad factors. Water can seep through cracks and cause rust, and rust can cause expansion.
@@PokeYourEyez thank you
Why wait seven days? Lock in that moisture thats continuing to assist curing right??
Your video talks about waterproofing treatments applied to the cured concrete, so I have to ask, what about waterproofing admixtures? If silane on regular concrete is good, wouldn't silane on concrete made with waterproofing be better?
The best tip?
DON'T PISS THE ENGINEER OFF!
(this applies to airplanes and trains, as well)
👍
Yes, how about concrete which lasts about 2,000 years -- say I want to build a "Pantheon"?
The trick there would be to leave out the reinforcing steel and build your concrete in a mild environment. =)
Tyler Ley I have used Metamax extensively instead of flyash - in tropical sun the concrete turns white over a few years. Would be good if you could cover non-flyash SCM's.
I have some here:
th-cam.com/video/0wOCn7smmIs/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/VOIq5SFDWvc/w-d-xo.html
I need to do more on metakaolin and natural pozzolans. We just don't have much of it in my area and so I don't get to use it that much in my research.
Fiber reinforcement!!!!
We will talk about that in the design section. =)
good english ... I hope you believe m last messenger the Muhammed s,a,s
100 years seems... super lowball? The Romans clearly did far better, and they mostly weren't even working off the scientific method, at least not formally. (Roman pro tip: just don't use rebar, lol). I suppose the more interesting question is something like "If you were the autocratic ruler of America with a mandate of infrastructure development & a practically infinite budget, how long could you make said infrastructure last using modern technology?" Where is the realistic sweet spot, where a society would get the best TCO? I know modern politicians trend towards "cheap now, who cares I'm not in office later!" and thus our planning reflects that...but IIRC the Hoover Dam has an expected lifespan of literally millennia, and that was built the 1930's. Does building a bridge or road with such a serious multi-century to millennia lifespan make sense?
We don't get to see all the bad roman concrete, because it's long gone. Likely the stuff that lasted until today needed some luck in addition to skill. Making your concrete last that long as a matter of course is much harder, I presume.
Ric - As Plagic Siren points out we don't see the Roman concrete that didn't make it. We only see the ones that did. These are the ones in very mild environments.
If you use steel reinforcing - which I think is critical for surviving extreme events such as earthquakes, tornados, over loads, etc. - then I think 200 years is possible for a bridge deck in an extreme environment for not much more cost than we use today. These videos are focused on providing people tips on how to improve their concrete projects without significant cost increase. These are no brainers but people should use these tips to make what they are doing now as best as possible.
The Hoover Dam is constantly being maintained and inspected. Any issue that forms is addressed right away. Even with all this attention that structure is aging quickly and will need to be replaced. If cost was not an option then polyester concrete would be what I would use. That stuff will last 100s of years.
Lasting a hundred years is not impressive at all.
If it's impressive for concrete then concrete isn't impressive.