hi Kevin, I appreciate your generous donation to my channel, it’s surprising how it all adds up with income from adverts to being potentially the start of a small wage working from home … thanks for your support … Nick 👍💵😁
Hi Aiden, thanks for supporting my channel. I really appreciate that. i’ve been meaning to try this again with copper sulphate that everyone seem to be suggesting I should be using … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Your channel is one of the best out there in my opinion. I love the use of Aldi and Lidl equipment and the make it myself ethos. I've actually just cut up a calor gas bottle to make the forge type thing you use with vermiculite this morning. The difficulty for me is knowing what to buy and in what direction to proceed as I'm so new to it all. I think a rolling mill / drawplate and dapping block. I'll keep watching with interest for new ideas
Hi Aiden thanks for that, as a hobbyist I have much more time than money to spend so tinkering with tool ideas and modifying makes much more sense for me. A lot of people say “buy cheap buy twice” but I also believe “a cheap tool is better than no tool.” Your gas bottle forge sounds great and a very satisfying project to make. There’s a lot to be said for buying tools as and when you need them. Having a draw plate was a great progression as no need to be purchasing lots of different sized silver wires, just reduce one size down to whatever’s required. Rolling mills are lovely to use, but a big commitment if you want a Durston, my budget mill serves me well. There’s endless dapping and forming blocks to choose from, I ended up going for the biggest and cheapest set I could find that I’ve not really used to its full potential yet … Good luck with your adventures … have fun … N
hi Marta thanks for your sub, I feel very privileged having a garage as a man cave … however being a bit of a tooloholic I soon filled it too bursting … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Thank you for sharing your skills , I really appreciate how resourceful you are, I do as much of that as possible, currently making g a bench out of a gate, keep up the creative work please
Thanks for that John, it’s generally recommended that you ask your local council what procedure they recommend for disposal. The few times I’ve used this technique I tend to mix the solution with a highly absorbent clay-based cat litter and then dispose it with general rubbish. After I had made this video I had a few comments saying that copper sulphate was a lot safer product to use … N
La repetición hace el maestro, .infinito...si recoge de la naturaleza tenbra diseños para hacer toda su vida, me gusta su diseñador, una japonesa ganó un premio de joyería creando líquenes y cosas de mar........GRACIAS MUCHAS GRACIAS UN YO LLEVARE SU VIDEO A UNA ESCUELA Y QUE TODOS VEAN COMO USTED HACE. VIVO EN UNA CIUDAD PERVERTIDA Y LOS CINICOS POLITICOS NO ONEN ESCUELAS DE OFICIOS Y NUESTROS PROFESORES GRACIAS. DIOS SON BUENAS PERSONAS...PERO...NO ESTIMULAN LA INVESTIGACION Y L CULTURA EN LOS COLEGIOS COMO SALIDA A LA FALTA DE EMPLEO.....NI SIQUIERA LOS COLEGIOS iindustriales
Thanks Yvonne, I do love nature and its natural beauty, a rewarding challenge to try and capture it in jewellery. Nice to hear you may show my videos in school. Education comes in many forms. I hated school as a kid and preferred to hang out in the woods climbing trees and watching the birds. How time moves on quickly with students being more worldly wise with the introduction of the www … all the best … Nick.
Great video! Question: how thick is the blank that you use prior to etching? What would you say is the minimum thickness to use for a decent etch? Thanks for sharing! ❤️
hi Naomi thanks for your comment, sorry I forgot to include sizes. The round copper blanks I make for this process are out of 3mm plate. It’s a nice thickness to use for when casting because it allows for a deep etch/cut about 0.5mm also it gives plenty of spare when cleaning up the back of the casting. if etching for just finished jewellery as thin as 1mm sheet would work very well … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Ah, thank you so much! And it's Wendy btw, but you wouldn't know that... 😁 This used to be an account that I shared with my daughter when I was was a "seudo-luddite" way back... She's basically abandoned it so it's mine now. Thanks for the quick response, and I hope you are well and have a lovely day. 😊
Nice one Wendy, had to use modern technology to find out what a seudo-luddite was … taking it easy and going slow in the hot weather … all the best to you … Nick
This is great and has given me loads of ideas. I have a bench top power supply that can kick out 6v no problem but what current would you run for a clean etch please and thank you
hi Richard, The small tool charger i used for this etch says output: DC6v 300mA it was very clean and neat up to about 40 minutes. with a bit of trial, error and practice some very interesting results can be achieved … N
Hi Monty, I wasn’t sure what to say about the nasty sludge, I was going to say “contact your local authority for info on disposal” but that sounded scary. i’m going to filter mine, keep the water and burn the dried out filter paper and sediment … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff I'm working on some Celtic pieces and I definitely want to cast in bronze. Have you done enameling with copper? I'm interested in trying that out too.
hi Shaun I have dabbled with enamel, it’s a bit hit and miss with a torch for best results you need a kiln. it’s worked well for me with thick copper and tends to bend with thinner sheet … also clean metal is a must for good adhesion … have fun … Nick
Cool video. Ive tried to etch copper a couple of times and used marker once and then a paint pen the other time. I also used a 6v power soutce with saltbwater. Both times i failed to achieve any significant etch. I left the one in for over an hour and the other for 35 minutes. The water was showing removal of copper pretty heavily. Can you give me any insight to what im doing wrong? Also i thoroughly cleaned with 70% alcohol before etch. Any help wiuld be appreciated
Hi Phillip, sorry to hear you’re struggling with it. I’m not very experienced with this technique but it did work well when I tried it. I can suggest a few things to check … totally saturated distilled water with pure salt. I heat the water first and stir the salt in until no more will dissolve. My work is connected to the positive terminal and a big piece of copper connected to the negative. I used an old printer transformer for the electrical supply but it might be worth trying a few variations of power. A lot of people suggested copper sulphate and water is a much better solution to use but I’ve not got round to ordering any to try yet … hope you get it sorted … N
thanks Guillermo, Nice to hear you liked the music. not sure what else this works with, a bit of trial and error needed. I tried etching silver one time with disastrous results, not everything works out so well … good luck with it … Nick
I am absolutely fascinated by this video.I just do not get it at all.!! When you had etched the original piece (which you then used as a pattern for the casting) you had a mirror-image of the finished piece but in copper. Why not start by etching a bronze circle with a reversed drawing and you are finished.And do the etching with whatever number of bronze circles you like.No messing with sand.What am I missing?? And please,when you get a minute tell me the name of the music on the sand-casting video.Reminds me of flamenco/tango with Arabic influence. And do keep up the videos,most enlightening and enjoyable.
hi William sorry I’ve only just found your comment in the blocked folder … not sure why. seems perfectly respectable to me. The mirror image issues is when you cast something it’s an exact copy however when you etch an item it is a mirror image of what you’ve printed. I find the etching process very long winded, unpredictable with disappointing results sometimes. however its well worth going through the process to make a pattern that can be kept and copied multiple times in a variety of materials. bronze casting grain is cheap and easy to get hold of not sure of 3mm bronze sheet i’ve never used it. I love the sand casting process it’s very quick easy with predictable results. The music I use comes from storyblocks in LumaFusion The first track is called Magic Hour and the second is called Acapulco Calling … all the best … Nick
Hi Bearfoot, I think most things have been done before. It originates from people wanting to design and print circuit boards for electronics. It can be used for cutting through thin copper sheet with very fine detail … N
Ahhh that's the video I. Wanted to see... nice. So you just put a 6v battery and vmconnect it with at one side a copper thing, and the other side the thing you want to bin eaten... sotmrrt for the words I use... I can't find the words... then in salt saturated water and you can do an etsing? I will try that... 😃 Thank you thank you thank you... 😍💋😘
yes it’s a very simple process … but have been informed it’s a rather toxic method it’s better to use copper sulphate. I copied the information into the description of the video for people to take note of … N
Hi Canele, I find etching rather unpredictable at times … it’s worth experimenting with different voltages and resists. it’s been said that copper sulphate is best used for the solution … good luck with it … Nick
Hi FPS, sorry but this technique only works well because laser toner transfers with heat. It’s like a plastic powder that melts and sticks to the paper rather than a wet ink that dries … N
Hi Max, there’s a few issues it could be, good adhesion of the laser printer toner resist is important in the first place. I make sure the surface of the copper is roughed up with abrasive paper to give it a good key and to make sure it’s very clean I use acetone to remove any contaminants. The other issue I found is the power or voltage used for etching after playing around with a few options, I found 4.5v works well for me … N
@@Nickscreativestuff Thank you, I use an iron, but the toner is still not completely transferred, what should I do and the next thing is that I polish the copper surface a lot. Could it be a problem with the polished surface?
yes I think it needs to be a sanded rough surface for the toner to stick well. some people suggest using glossy magazine paper to print onto for a clean transfer … N
Hi Jonathan, toner from a laser printer transfers with heat so everything needs to get up to temperature to melt the toner and for it to stick. I think it all needs to ge up to about 110 -130 degrees centigrade which may take a long time if it’s a large model … N
Thanks. I'm trying this with a high school chemistry class using 15 x 15 cm copper plates. I think an iron should do the trick. You are saying that heat will transfer the toner, regardless of how long it has already been printed on the paper?@@Nickscreativestuff
I would guess toner will reactivate with heat after any amount of time. I’ve experimented with a few different options. some plain fibrous paper seems to hold the toner a lot more and is reluctant to release it back when transferring. glossy paper seems to work well for this option but can be a bit waterproof. i’ve tried greaseproof paper that works well, but then I got my printer jammed with it. The best result I’ve had is with paper that disintegrates easily with water. it did leave fibre in the transfer but it didn’t seem to matter for the etch … N
Oh geez Nick, this process is so fucking dangerous. Cooking salt is perfectly harmless until you run an electrical current through it. A. The bubbles you see at the anode are gaseous chlorine being liberated into the atmosphere. This is rather toxic. B. The bubbles at the cathode are gaseous hydrogen. This is rather explosive. C. The sludgy precipitate is mainly copper(II) hydroxide with some sodium hydroxide and depending on contaminates, other metal hydroxides. This really isn't something you want to try burning, unless you really are into releasing poisonous gases into the local environment. D. Most of the sodium hydroxide (aka caustic soda) produced will remain in solution, filtering will create a solution of lye... not water. Please don't confuse this solution with water. E. A much safer, simpler and no waste method would be to use copper sulphate as your electrolyte. Then you would just be transferring copper ions from your piece at the anode through solution with excess copper accumulating on your cathode. There would be no dangerous side reactions and your solution could be reused indefinitely.
Thanks for your expertise Jirup, Well that was a scary but interesting and informative read. As a hobbyist one gets up to all sorts of dangerous stuff without realising the risks or implications. I suppose it’s a different matter when you film it and show it to the public. I did worry about the health and safety consequences with making this video. Maybe I need much more of a warning or disclaimer. I could pin your text to the top of the videos messages. And maybe copy and paste it to the description of the video as a warning. What do you think … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff I think a warning/disclaimer is a very good idea. I thoroughly support people's right to take risks, but yeah, it is a bit different when you publish for public consumption. Try out the copper sulphate as an electrolyte. It works well and can be reused. Or, if you want to dispose of the copper sulphate electrolyte, you can precipitate the copper out of solution by adding aluminium foil and a pinch of salt. I use the copper precipitate to make copper clay, or you can just fire it up and melt it back into a lump of copper metal. The left over solution is primarily aluminium sulphate and (supposedly) safe for drain disposal. I still evaporate off the water and dispose of the solids via council approved waste collection. Stay safe now, J.
Hi J thanks for your advice on the subject, i’ll definitely be using copper sulphate next time and making copper clay sounds intriguing. i’ll definitely have it to add a disclaimer in the description hope you don’t mind me copying and pasting your text in … seems most relevant to the subject … cheers … Nick
@@jirup Could you explain a bit how to use the copper sulfate? Just casual search online I see you can purchase both liquid solution and crystals. Can you just get the crystals and dissolve them in water? And is there an easy way to say how much to use? Like "as much as you can dissolve until it is saturated" or something like that? Since I have a laser printer I might experiment with the etching but of course would prefer to do so safely.
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks!
hi Kevin, I appreciate your generous donation to my channel, it’s surprising how it all adds up with income from adverts to being potentially the start of a small wage working from home … thanks for your support … Nick 👍💵😁
@@Nickscreativestuff It's always great to support good work! Good luck.
thanks for that one mate … N
You can melt metal with a handtorch that is going up to max 1300 degrees Celsius?
That is awesome 👌. Have to try it... thx for that video...
Great video and Q & A in comments were fabulous too👏
Thanks Gale, I do try and respond to all comments … it’s nice to feel the sense of a community on here … N
Bronze. I hadn't even thought of using it before. Pretty exciting stuff, and opens up even more potential.
Thanks Nick.
between copper and silver not as expensive as silver and looks better than copper … N
Inspirational videos. Thank you Nick
Hi Aiden, thanks for supporting my channel. I really appreciate that. i’ve been meaning to try this again with copper sulphate that everyone seem to be suggesting I should be using … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Your channel is one of the best out there in my opinion. I love the use of Aldi and Lidl equipment and the make it myself ethos. I've actually just cut up a calor gas bottle to make the forge type thing you use with vermiculite this morning. The difficulty for me is knowing what to buy and in what direction to proceed as I'm so new to it all. I think a rolling mill / drawplate and dapping block. I'll keep watching with interest for new ideas
Hi Aiden thanks for that, as a hobbyist I have much more time than money to spend so tinkering with tool ideas and modifying makes much more sense for me. A lot of people say “buy cheap buy twice” but I also believe “a cheap tool is better than no tool.” Your gas bottle forge sounds great and a very satisfying project to make. There’s a lot to be said for buying tools as and when you need them. Having a draw plate was a great progression as no need to be purchasing lots of different sized silver wires, just reduce one size down to whatever’s required. Rolling mills are lovely to use, but a big commitment if you want a Durston, my budget mill serves me well. There’s endless dapping and forming blocks to choose from, I ended up going for the biggest and cheapest set I could find that I’ve not really used to its full potential yet … Good luck with your adventures … have fun … N
I'm a new sub and I'm already so envious of all your tools.....very impressed also
hi Marta thanks for your sub, I feel very privileged having a garage as a man cave … however being a bit of a tooloholic I soon filled it too bursting … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Thank you for sharing your skills , I really appreciate how resourceful you are, I do as much of that as possible, currently making g a bench out of a gate, keep up the creative work please
that sounds great, I hope your gate bench takes you to new levels of creativity … N
@@Nickscreativestuff thank you, I might even make a bad quality video to show if not I'll just stick to painting and wire wrapping ;.)
definitely make some videos, there’s never enough new creative videos on TH-cam to watch … wire wrapping is very popular … N
one of the better instructional videos I've seen on the subject. Can you advise the "proper disposal" of the electrolyte after the etch?
Thanks for that John, it’s generally recommended that you ask your local council what procedure they recommend for disposal. The few times I’ve used this technique I tend to mix the solution with a highly absorbent clay-based cat litter and then dispose it with general rubbish. After I had made this video I had a few comments saying that copper sulphate was a lot safer product to use … N
La repetición hace el maestro,
.infinito...si recoge de la naturaleza tenbra diseños para hacer toda su vida, me gusta su diseñador, una japonesa ganó un premio de joyería creando líquenes y cosas de mar........GRACIAS MUCHAS GRACIAS UN YO LLEVARE SU VIDEO A UNA ESCUELA Y QUE TODOS VEAN COMO USTED HACE. VIVO EN UNA CIUDAD PERVERTIDA Y LOS CINICOS POLITICOS NO ONEN ESCUELAS DE OFICIOS Y NUESTROS PROFESORES GRACIAS. DIOS SON BUENAS PERSONAS...PERO...NO ESTIMULAN LA INVESTIGACION Y L CULTURA EN LOS COLEGIOS COMO SALIDA A LA FALTA DE EMPLEO.....NI SIQUIERA LOS COLEGIOS iindustriales
Thanks Yvonne, I do love nature and its natural beauty, a rewarding challenge to try and capture it in jewellery. Nice to hear you may show my videos in school. Education comes in many forms. I hated school as a kid and preferred to hang out in the woods climbing trees and watching the birds. How time moves on quickly with students being more worldly wise with the introduction of the www … all the best … Nick.
Great video!
Question: how thick is the blank that you use prior to etching? What would you say is the minimum thickness to use for a decent etch?
Thanks for sharing! ❤️
hi Naomi thanks for your comment, sorry I forgot to include sizes.
The round copper blanks I make for this process are out of 3mm plate.
It’s a nice thickness to use for when casting because it allows for a deep etch/cut about 0.5mm also it gives plenty of spare when cleaning up the back of the casting. if etching for just finished jewellery as thin as 1mm sheet would work very well … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Ah, thank you so much!
And it's Wendy btw, but you wouldn't know that... 😁
This used to be an account that I shared with my daughter when I was was a "seudo-luddite" way back... She's basically abandoned it so it's mine now.
Thanks for the quick response, and I hope you are well and have a lovely day. 😊
Nice one Wendy, had to use modern technology to find out what a seudo-luddite was … taking it easy and going slow in the hot weather … all the best to you … Nick
Please share more ideas like this
thanks for your comment Shobi, I will endeavour to share more of my ideas on here … cheers … Nick
This is great and has given me loads of ideas. I have a bench top power supply that can kick out 6v no problem but what current would you run for a clean etch please and thank you
hi Richard, The small tool charger i used for this etch says
output: DC6v 300mA it was very clean and neat up to about 40 minutes. with a bit of trial, error and practice some very interesting results can be achieved … N
@@Nickscreativestuff thank you
Thank you hugs from Brazil
thanks for the hugs Nil all the way from Brazil … N
You are incredible!!!!
Thanks Mama’s Wild Child, all good fun … N
How do you properly dispose of etching by-product? Great project to try.
Hi Monty, I wasn’t sure what to say about the nasty sludge,
I was going to say “contact your local authority for info on disposal” but that sounded scary.
i’m going to filter mine, keep the water and burn the dried out filter paper and sediment … cheers … Nick
That was cool nick
thanks Scarlet, A long but enjoyable process … N
Love sand casting!
hi Shaun, yes definitely me too. have been meaning to try and make my own bronze to try casting with … N
@@Nickscreativestuff I'm working on some Celtic pieces and I definitely want to cast in bronze.
Have you done enameling with copper? I'm interested in trying that out too.
hi Shaun I have dabbled with enamel, it’s a bit hit and miss with a torch for best results you need a kiln. it’s worked well for me with thick copper and tends to bend with thinner sheet … also clean metal is a must for good adhesion … have fun … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff Thanks!
Cool video. Ive tried to etch copper a couple of times and used marker once and then a paint pen the other time. I also used a 6v power soutce with saltbwater. Both times i failed to achieve any significant etch. I left the one in for over an hour and the other for 35 minutes. The water was showing removal of copper pretty heavily. Can you give me any insight to what im doing wrong? Also i thoroughly cleaned with 70% alcohol before etch. Any help wiuld be appreciated
Hi Phillip, sorry to hear you’re struggling with it. I’m not very experienced with this technique but it did work well when I tried it. I can suggest a few things to check … totally saturated distilled water with pure salt. I heat the water first and stir the salt in until no more will dissolve. My work is connected to the positive terminal and a big piece of copper connected to the negative. I used an old printer transformer for the electrical supply but it might be worth trying a few variations of power. A lot of people suggested copper sulphate and water is a much better solution to use but I’ve not got round to ordering any to try yet … hope you get it sorted … N
Nice job, the music was perfect, the technic of etching work with another materials like alpaca or nickel?
thanks Guillermo, Nice to hear you liked the music. not sure what else this works with, a bit of trial and error needed. I tried etching silver one time with disastrous results, not everything works out so well … good luck with it … Nick
Thank you!
cheers Susan … N
I am absolutely fascinated by this video.I just do not get it at all.!!
When you had etched the original piece (which you then used as a pattern for the casting) you had a mirror-image of the finished piece but in copper.
Why not start by etching a bronze circle with a reversed drawing and you are finished.And do the etching with whatever number of bronze circles you like.No messing with sand.What am I missing??
And please,when you get a minute tell me the name of the music on the sand-casting video.Reminds me of flamenco/tango with Arabic influence.
And do keep up the videos,most enlightening and enjoyable.
hi William sorry I’ve only just found your comment in the blocked folder … not sure why.
seems perfectly respectable to me. The mirror image issues is when you cast something it’s an exact copy however when you etch an item it is a mirror image of what you’ve printed. I find the etching process very long winded, unpredictable with disappointing results sometimes. however its well worth going through the process to make a pattern that can be kept and copied multiple times in a variety of materials.
bronze casting grain is cheap and easy to get hold of not sure of 3mm bronze sheet i’ve never used it. I love the sand casting process it’s very quick easy with predictable results. The music I use comes from storyblocks in LumaFusion The first track is called Magic Hour and the second is called Acapulco Calling … all the best … Nick
How in the world did you ever come up with the idea to use the printer ink like that? That is so neat.
Hi Bearfoot, I think most things have been done before. It originates from people wanting to design and print circuit boards for electronics.
It can be used for cutting through thin copper sheet with very fine detail … N
Ahhh that's the video I. Wanted to see... nice. So you just put a 6v battery and vmconnect it with at one side a copper thing, and the other side the thing you want to bin eaten... sotmrrt for the words I use... I can't find the words... then in salt saturated water and you can do an etsing? I will try that... 😃
Thank you thank you thank you... 😍💋😘
yes it’s a very simple process … but have been informed it’s a rather toxic method it’s better to use copper sulphate. I copied the information into the description of the video for people to take note of … N
Is that true? I have tried this several times , and have not made it , Im going to try this time just as you explain here , I mean the etching part...
Hi Canele, I find etching rather unpredictable at times … it’s worth experimenting with different voltages and resists. it’s been said that copper sulphate is best used for the solution … good luck with it … Nick
Why did you use that hard carving wax???
The etching came out a bit pitted and over eaten in places so I filled in and repaired some of it with blue wax … N
would a standard printer work and just plain paper to get the design i want
Hi FPS, sorry but this technique only works well because laser toner transfers with heat. It’s like a plastic powder that melts and sticks to the paper rather than a wet ink that dries … N
@@Nickscreativestuff thanks man i keep looking then
👍😎👍 … N
Hello, friend, during etching, after some time, the ink is removed from the page and the work is ruined. What is the reason?
Hi Max, there’s a few issues it could be, good adhesion of the laser printer toner resist is important in the first place. I make sure the surface of the copper is roughed up with abrasive paper to give it a good key and to make sure it’s very clean I use acetone to remove any contaminants. The other issue I found is the power or voltage used for etching after playing around with a few options, I found 4.5v works well for me … N
@@Nickscreativestuff Thank you, I use an iron, but the toner is still not completely transferred, what should I do and the next thing is that I polish the copper surface a lot. Could it be a problem with the polished surface?
yes I think it needs to be a sanded rough surface for the toner to stick well. some people suggest using glossy magazine paper to print onto for a clean transfer … N
@@Nickscreativestuff thanks
👍😎👍 … N
How quickly do you need to transfer the laser jet ink onto the metal?
Hi Jonathan, toner from a laser printer transfers with heat so everything needs to get up to temperature to melt the toner and for it to stick. I think it all needs to ge up to about 110 -130 degrees centigrade which may take a long time if it’s a large model … N
Thanks. I'm trying this with a high school chemistry class using 15 x 15 cm copper plates. I think an iron should do the trick.
You are saying that heat will transfer the toner, regardless of how long it has already been printed on the paper?@@Nickscreativestuff
I would guess toner will reactivate with heat after any amount of time. I’ve experimented with a few different options. some plain fibrous paper seems to hold the toner a lot more and is reluctant to release it back when transferring. glossy paper seems to work well for this option but can be a bit waterproof. i’ve tried greaseproof paper that works well, but then I got my printer jammed with it. The best result I’ve had is with paper that disintegrates easily with water. it did leave fibre in the transfer but it didn’t seem to matter for the etch … N
👍👍
👍😎👍 … N
Oh geez Nick, this process is so fucking dangerous. Cooking salt is perfectly harmless until you run an electrical current through it.
A. The bubbles you see at the anode are gaseous chlorine being liberated into the atmosphere. This is rather toxic.
B. The bubbles at the cathode are gaseous hydrogen. This is rather explosive.
C. The sludgy precipitate is mainly copper(II) hydroxide with some sodium hydroxide and depending on contaminates, other metal hydroxides. This really isn't something you want to try burning, unless you really are into releasing poisonous gases into the local environment.
D. Most of the sodium hydroxide (aka caustic soda) produced will remain in solution, filtering will create a solution of lye... not water. Please don't confuse this solution with water.
E. A much safer, simpler and no waste method would be to use copper sulphate as your electrolyte. Then you would just be transferring copper ions from your piece at the anode through solution with excess copper accumulating on your cathode. There would be no dangerous side reactions and your solution could be reused indefinitely.
Thanks for your expertise Jirup,
Well that was a scary but interesting and informative read. As a hobbyist one gets up to all sorts of dangerous stuff without realising the risks or implications.
I suppose it’s a different matter when you film it and show it to the public. I did worry about the health and safety consequences with making this video.
Maybe I need much more of a warning or disclaimer.
I could pin your text to the top of the videos messages.
And maybe copy and paste it to the description of the video as a warning.
What do you think … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff I think a warning/disclaimer is a very good idea. I thoroughly support people's right to take risks, but yeah, it is a bit different when you publish for public consumption.
Try out the copper sulphate as an electrolyte. It works well and can be reused. Or, if you want to dispose of the copper sulphate electrolyte, you can precipitate the copper out of solution by adding aluminium foil and a pinch of salt. I use the copper precipitate to make copper clay, or you can just fire it up and melt it back into a lump of copper metal. The left over solution is primarily aluminium sulphate and (supposedly) safe for drain disposal. I still evaporate off the water and dispose of the solids via council approved waste collection.
Stay safe now, J.
Hi J thanks for your advice on the subject, i’ll definitely be using copper sulphate next time and making copper clay sounds intriguing.
i’ll definitely have it to add a disclaimer in the description hope you don’t mind me copying and pasting your text in … seems most relevant to the subject … cheers … Nick
@@Nickscreativestuff No worries, mate.
@@jirup Could you explain a bit how to use the copper sulfate? Just casual search online I see you can purchase both liquid solution and crystals. Can you just get the crystals and dissolve them in water? And is there an easy way to say how much to use? Like "as much as you can dissolve until it is saturated" or something like that?
Since I have a laser printer I might experiment with the etching but of course would prefer to do so safely.