+Mambre Khachatryan - simpler, no doubt... 1) There's a +/- 5% range on the USB output (4.75v- 5.25v). Might not be an issue but these buck converters are within .05v of nominal 5v. 2) I use HScope and android tablet so no USB power source available. 3) This 5v REF BOX also used with multimeter only in bench testing. I do agree, those 3 reasons not withstanding, that a laptop UBS can power most 5v reference sensors. Thanks for watching.
+Oscar Gomez - no parts list and no links (eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress) which become dead links in a matter of days. Also, this channel is viewed in dozens of countries with sourcing that would differ from mine in Canada. The project box, 9v battery holders, RCA connectors are all standard items that can be easily found online. Where the parts are specialized, as in the MP1584EN Buck Converter here, I explain those more fully in my videos. Then, they too can be found online in the region the viewer resides.
+Jeff Grizzel - you've become my #1 fan! The ideas are coming to me faster than the components. Stay tuned, there's a few real sweet builds in the works.
Thanks for sharing. Have you tested or is there any issues you know of that would arise by using battery voltage from the vehicle instead of the 9 volt batteries for a source?
have not tested but I would foresee 2 issues: 1) alternator ripple (noise) making its way through 2) voltage fluctuations, especially during engine cranking tests
@@theGADGETSplaylist Thanks! I just ordered some MP1584EN's and will do some testing. My main concern was the fluctuation/ripple on input voltage while running. It will be used for datalogging fuel pressure, MAP and possibly some other data so cranking will not be much concern at the moment.
yes, Bernnie we could alligator clip to car. Extra wires and perhaps alternator ripple showing through... And you might want to have a look at GADGETS#21 REF Box also before deciding on a build...
in practice, not seen in our automotive waveforms I featured a linear LM7805 box in #21 and in #84 I compare the two thanks for your interest Roy and I would have got to your comment sooner but YT buried it
@@nathanburke1993 - I appreciate the interest, Nathan. I really do. But I'm too lazy to build any of the GADGETS featured on the channel for sale. And I would be depriving you of half the fun. If you do try one of the 5vREF, have a look at GADGETS#21 and see if you prefer that one. Denis
+rafael garcia - that D1 is a LED (those little arrows differentiate it from ordinary diodes)...it's built into the switch that is used, not something we add:-) Did you watch GADGETS#84 just released, where I recommend the 5v REF Box in GADGETS#21 over this one? Although #11 is still viable for automotive work...
Oh ok I got it. I’m new to your channel but I have seen all 3. They’re so cheap, I’m building both. What is your preference on the 9 volt power supply, series or parallel? Thank you.
@@rafaelgarcia-xk7eu - series or parallel depends on the input requirements of the DC-DC converter. In this build (#11), the board wants 7v and up. The 9v batteries are in series to provide 18v. That way, they would have to deplete a lot to flirt with that min voltage input. In the other build (#21), the linear regulator will generate more heat the more spread there is between input and output voltage. So the choice was to put the 9v batteries in parallel to keep input voltage low.
measure the output of the USB adapter first...we're trying to be close to 5.000v and some of those might push 5.200v also measure the ripple (noise) of that adapter with your oscilloscope if both those criteria are met, then sure that could make a decent 5v REF Box you might want to check out GADGETS#21 as my preferred 5v REF
Instead of the batteries-- I'd rather have a set of clamps come out of the box so that I can just hook it up to the 12v battery in the car.. and just do my sensor testing right there under the hood. Then you never have to fiddle with dead batteries. Without the 9v batteries inside, you would have plenty of room to add one of those ultra cheap volt meters inside also-- and mount the switch correctly; and since you should never need to open it- you can just glue the cover on, since it's "too easy to take off". The volt meter would help notify you if you ever accidentally hooked up the cables backwards to the 12v battery. Even for bench testing, I tend to have batteries setting around on chargers at all times anyway.. Extra car battery for my tractor, or riding mower battery, 4wheeler battery, etc. etc. I like to pull them and keep them on a maintainer through the winter; so I would always have a 12v battery nearby that I could use. Or just use the charger itself... Nice build, as always The chargers/ maintainer's I've been using say "foxsur" on the top of it. They have a built in fan and an LCD display that tells you temperature, charging voltage and current inflow during charging (6 amp max). For less than twenty dollars. You can just hook them up and walk away and they will keep the battery full indefinitely and not overcharge. I've bought several of them :). I found out that if you just hook up the clamps to your battery (and not plug it in yet)--- it will still turn on just by the battery voltage alone- and act as a volt meter and let you know the state of the battery. Pretty cool. But once you plug it in, it will only display the charging voltage- up near 15v (and 6 amps). These things have been a lifesaver for me.. I dont' ever have the "dead battery" problem anymore; and I always run my engines out of gas now for winter storage--- so I won't have to keep cleaning carbs all the time. :) .. things have been a breeze in the past few years.
the sensors typically powered by these 5v REF Box is very little...9v battery lasts a long time if you can power from the vehicle battery and get as near 5v as possible and not have alternator ripple etc getting introduced, then good idea
A 5v power supply and sensor return signal box for use in automotive oscilloscope work.
Nice job, I use 5v from a usb port of my notebook to power incylinder transducer, works fine.
+Mambre Khachatryan - simpler, no doubt...
1) There's a +/- 5% range on the USB output (4.75v- 5.25v). Might not be an issue but these buck converters are within .05v of nominal 5v.
2) I use HScope and android tablet so no USB power source available.
3) This 5v REF BOX also used with multimeter only in bench testing.
I do agree, those 3 reasons not withstanding, that a laptop UBS can power most 5v reference sensors.
Thanks for watching.
Would you happen to have a part list we can see to complete this project?
+Oscar Gomez - no parts list and no links (eBay, Amazon, Aliexpress) which become dead links in a matter of days.
Also, this channel is viewed in dozens of countries with sourcing that would differ from mine in Canada.
The project box, 9v battery holders, RCA connectors are all standard items that can be easily found online.
Where the parts are specialized, as in the MP1584EN Buck Converter here, I explain those more fully in my videos. Then, they too can be found online in the region the viewer resides.
Great info, thanks. This is going to be a very handy tool. Have a good week, and thanks again for your time and effort.
+Jeff Grizzel - you've become my #1 fan!
The ideas are coming to me faster than the components. Stay tuned, there's a few real sweet builds in the works.
Thanks for sharing. Have you tested or is there any issues you know of that would arise by using battery voltage from the vehicle instead of the 9 volt batteries for a source?
have not tested but I would foresee 2 issues:
1) alternator ripple (noise) making its way through
2) voltage fluctuations, especially during engine cranking tests
@@theGADGETSplaylist Thanks! I just ordered some MP1584EN's and will do some testing. My main concern was the fluctuation/ripple on input voltage while running. It will be used for datalogging fuel pressure, MAP and possibly some other data so cranking will not be much concern at the moment.
@@kevmacfast1 should work fine...
One quick question I think I have it down. How many wires go to the power switch? I see you have a 3 blade do you need that or will two work?
there are 3 wires because switch has small built in LED indicator light...sure 2 wires will work...LED won't light, that's all...
Short circuit Protection?
wasn't a big deal for me
of course can be added by those uncomfortable without
Would you be interested in building one of theses for me one of your viewers
Little question, could you the incoming volltage take it from the battery of the car?
With 2 alligator clamps?
yes, Bernnie we could alligator clip to car.
Extra wires and perhaps alternator ripple showing through...
And you might want to have a look at GADGETS#21 REF Box also before deciding on a build...
Very neat solution, but using a switching power supply module, does it create a lot of noise on the output to the oscilloscope?
in practice, not seen in our automotive waveforms
I featured a linear LM7805 box in #21
and in #84 I compare the two
thanks for your interest Roy and I would have got to your comment sooner but YT buried it
@@theGADGETSplaylist no bother, like your videos
How much to make one and ship to UK?
$1,000,000,000.00
@@theGADGETSplaylist
That may be a bit steep, but genuinely willing to purchase one for the right money
@@nathanburke1993 - I appreciate the interest, Nathan. I really do.
But I'm too lazy to build any of the GADGETS featured on the channel for sale.
And I would be depriving you of half the fun. If you do try one of the 5vREF, have a look at GADGETS#21 and see if you prefer that one.
Denis
Thank you for all that you do. I have a question. In the diagram there is a diode [D1]. But you did not mention it. Did you use it on your box?
+rafael garcia - that D1 is a LED (those little arrows differentiate it from ordinary diodes)...it's built into the switch that is used, not something we add:-)
Did you watch GADGETS#84 just released, where I recommend the 5v REF Box in GADGETS#21 over this one?
Although #11 is still viable for automotive work...
Oh ok I got it. I’m new to your channel but I have seen all 3. They’re so cheap, I’m building both. What is your preference on the 9 volt power supply, series or parallel? Thank you.
@@rafaelgarcia-xk7eu - series or parallel depends on the input requirements of the DC-DC converter.
In this build (#11), the board wants 7v and up. The 9v batteries are in series to provide 18v. That way, they would have to deplete a lot to flirt with that min voltage input.
In the other build (#21), the linear regulator will generate more heat the more spread there is between input and output voltage. So the choice was to put the 9v batteries in parallel to keep input voltage low.
I was just wondering why couldn't I use the guts from a USB car cigarette lighter socket adapter? I have lots of those... Hmm. Experiment time!
measure the output of the USB adapter first...we're trying to be close to 5.000v and some of those might push 5.200v
also measure the ripple (noise) of that adapter with your oscilloscope
if both those criteria are met, then sure that could make a decent 5v REF Box
you might want to check out GADGETS#21 as my preferred 5v REF
Instead of the batteries-- I'd rather have a set of clamps come out of the box so that I can just hook it up to the 12v battery in the car.. and just do my sensor testing right there under the hood. Then you never have to fiddle with dead batteries. Without the 9v batteries inside, you would have plenty of room to add one of those ultra cheap volt meters inside also-- and mount the switch correctly; and since you should never need to open it- you can just glue the cover on, since it's "too easy to take off". The volt meter would help notify you if you ever accidentally hooked up the cables backwards to the 12v battery. Even for bench testing, I tend to have batteries setting around on chargers at all times anyway.. Extra car battery for my tractor, or riding mower battery, 4wheeler battery, etc. etc. I like to pull them and keep them on a maintainer through the winter; so I would always have a 12v battery nearby that I could use. Or just use the charger itself... Nice build, as always
The chargers/ maintainer's I've been using say "foxsur" on the top of it. They have a built in fan and an LCD display that tells you temperature, charging voltage and current inflow during charging (6 amp max). For less than twenty dollars. You can just hook them up and walk away and they will keep the battery full indefinitely and not overcharge. I've bought several of them :). I found out that if you just hook up the clamps to your battery (and not plug it in yet)--- it will still turn on just by the battery voltage alone- and act as a volt meter and let you know the state of the battery. Pretty cool. But once you plug it in, it will only display the charging voltage- up near 15v (and 6 amps). These things have been a lifesaver for me.. I dont' ever have the "dead battery" problem anymore; and I always run my engines out of gas now for winter storage--- so I won't have to keep cleaning carbs all the time. :) .. things have been a breeze in the past few years.
the sensors typically powered by these 5v REF Box is very little...9v battery lasts a long time
if you can power from the vehicle battery and get as near 5v as possible and not have alternator ripple etc getting introduced, then good idea
FOUND IT...
Jonny, you might want to take a look at #21 as well and chose between the 2...
the GADGETS playlist wow, thank you!