This was actually so helpful. Not only for, ratios. This helped me understand the different techniques. How they differ from each other on theoretical and practical levels. As a newbie painter, this is tutorial gold.
You are standing out amongst the content creators with your independent thought and and no nonsense approach to a hobby that is overwhelmed by trends and “ chasing your tail” syndrome .Thanks for a great service to the hobby community delivered with humor. Fun is really all that matters with a hobby.
😃 Exactly! @@thestateofplay2023 Watching you talking so honestly is a true joy... I am a veteran ( almost 50!) mini painter and your videos are like any casual conversation between aficionados in a modelling shop. The ones I really loved.
Yup we’re the same age so we’ve both probably heard it all before. 🤣 you know when the younger crowd tell you stuff and you’re like, “Uhuh, I tried that in 1985 and it sucked back then”. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 yes! hahaha.. by the way, I agree with you in that weekends are for eating, resting, drinking ... and repeat in whatever order you like! ;)
You absolute legend! I love that your content keeps in mind that your audience may not have the resources other channels do as pro or even semi pro content creators do. You really are empowering your audience to develop their own style, built on deep understanding of their tools. I think blank versions of this grid along with your diy ink/paint chart, project planning pages (that reference the previous two) and some blank pages might make for an incredible paint journal.
Dude, where have you been? I’ve learned more no nonsense tips in the few short months I’ve been watching than years of other creators. Keep it up. Thank you for your time.
Will, as an old beginner (after a 40 year break), returning to the hobby with your excellent guidance is appreciated. Downloaded and used the patreon docs today... was like a Christmas present to my painting, finally, some good mixing with the Pro Acryl and your ratios and I feel like I'm starting to get it 🙂
Every time I see a new chart from this channel, I *RUSH* to the Patreon to download it. They're always so useful that I know it's worth having even before I watch the accompanying video. You're a hero of the hobby!
Number nerds of the hobby unite! All you have to lose is your imprecise consistencies. As a fan of a good infographic, you sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. 🖖 That's a great one page representation.
I wasn't sold on this video from the title, but watching it I have realized that I have to eat some crow. This is intensely useful! Thanks for another informative and useful video! Honestly, if you and Goobertown Hobbies teamed up the two of you could make THE single most informative, educational, and inspirational wargaming channel. For now I will settle for the the TWO most informative, educational, and inspirational wargaming channels! Keep cracking on!
Right. Note to self. Titles aren’t click baity enough. Far too informative. 🤣🤣 I’ll start 2024 with semi naked women in the thumbnail and a big “FOR $0”. 👍🏼🤣 So I retitled the video in your honour.
In the airbrush art field, we've been doing this for many years. With too much water, you "break" the paint because the binder is gets destroyed. For transparency, you mix with a transparent/base medium and only use water to thin.
It was a combination of some pro acryl paints really falling apart when adding water and learning and experimenting with an air brush that really got me thinking and ready to ditch the water and start playing with more types of mediums.
@thestateofplay2023 the scale modeling and railroad train groups seem to have an insane amount of experience to offer the mini painting field. It's crazy to me that youtube doesn't recommend me any videos for either of those two categories but if I search for them there is an incredible wealth of videos to learn more about oil paints, weathering, air brushing, terrain, different kinds of tools (tamiya alcohol based acrylics just came in vogue for mini painting but have been in use for years and years).
@@thestateofplay2023 I have this one local hobby shop that doesn't really sell any Warhammer specific stuff, so mainly has older scale modelers hanging around there just chatting for hours on end. I have learned so much from them that just never comes up in the Warhammer-sphere. It is weirdly insular within the world of painting small things. Often just simple stuff like keeping your super glue in the fridge if you want to maximise its lifespan, or how to actually use Microset and Microsol correctly for transfers. Products that you can get for cheap from a hardware store or general art store instead of paying hobby prices for a few mls of some basic chemical that you can get a litre of at half the price, such as mixing Liquitex Heavy Gloss Gel Medium with various red paints to make fake blood in a variety of tones (though I still like to support my local hobby shops too.)
Another superb vid based on considered thinking and a LOT of research behind the scenes. The truism that we all need to learn to thin our paint to our own ideal brush feel for each application is upheld, but the straightforward description of various technique based paint consistencies, that critically relates each to brush loading (the part folks always miss out and still leave you to experiment and find out by experience alone) makes the targets very clear indeed. The guiding use of drop combinations again helps folks get closer to the general area and adds confidence to practically experiment Masterwork, mug of tea and biscuit, gold star It really should sell a lot of the proacryl glaze and wash medium, you are a real gift to retail focus, you had me at "it dries nicely matt". I've been using vallejo glaze to increase transparency making multiple passes instead to offset my hand tremor as my main working technique so it seems we're in accord (That and using erasable oils) I call it four thin coats, but I'm not sure it'll catch on... All the vid needed was a visit from your lovely cuddly (despite hobby despair), stock film wife to be perfect (fond regards to your real one too - yes actual regards lol, go tell her 😇)
Thanks as always Phil. You can put the man on TH-cam, but it’s hard to shake the veteran ad man. As for Vallejo glaze medium. It’s great stuff and works well other than the shine it leaves. I shall let my wife know. When I’m allowed near. I’ve caught something from the kids AGAIN!!
@@thestateofplay2023School attending children are the most powerful disease vector in modern human history, a more dangerous bite than the anaphales mosquito, only slightly less lethal than prehistoric sharks in a Jason Statham movie You need to put some traps down
I thought about making a test grid like yours one day, but a little different. My level of skill with thinning isn't good enough yet to do this but maybe you can. For the test grid, make it so that you have test spots that are different opacity, with the theory being you can have specific test strips for different levels of thinning. So test strips for washes would be much easier to cover than test strips for base coats. To test with this you would brush over the corresponding test spot with your paints and see if it covers the test marker completely. If it does then your paint is either perfect or too thick. No real way to test for too thick, but this way you can at least test for too thin because the underlying test marker will be more or less opaque depending on your goal.
This video got me thinking on the following, which I would love your opinion on: My general idea for painting so far is, following your different consistencies: 1) Priming on the darkest value + color (or just black as default). This would be Base. 2) Layering (this could be multiple zenithal highlights + drybrush) up to lightest value. 3) Washes for enhancing darkest values on recesses. 4) Layer again for any color quite different from layering colours. 5) Details + edge highlighting Now up to step 3, Im pretty sure one can make do with a primer, Inks, flow improver, medium. My concern is whether for step 4 and 5 you MUST use acrylic paint (AP fanatic or any other) or you can somehow manage by increasing ink thickness and viscosity. My reasoning is that by doing more layers of more transparent paint one could get a better range of values and tones, increasing overall quality of the output. But what happens when you need to paint certain parts were its paramount to cover most of the underlying bases?
Ok after reading deeper in the comments that apparently you can thick inks with some products, my follow up question would be whether its worth that vs just mixing some primary color paint with other color ink and work from there. I guess that once you mix it with Ink, the viscosity / thickness is not the same, so one might end up having to do at least 2 thin coats non the less. Im just trying to work my head around whether its worth all the flexibility vs buying the complete set of speed paints 2.0 and a primer 😂 in terms of speed/quality balance
Ok I think I FOUND what I needed: Acrylic Gouaches (also from Liquitex). They are matte, they are single pigment so should work with your mixing charts. So a CYMK set of both Inks and Gouaches should provide tons of options from few products, to cover all steps of the painting process. Sorry for all this spam + thinking out loud 😅
You can just use the inks too. You’d just need to lighten any base ink with an opaque lighter colour. Like titanium white or similar. Then you can paint with it directly.
Going to be honest. icba having all these bottles around when my water cup is right there and now I have a drawer full of mediums I never use. Great vid though. Should help people getting started on learning the 'feel' of their paint!
Yeah, although it works with Prio Acryl, citadel, Vallejo, AK, Scake 75. Needs more medium with Kinera and Scale Colour artist tubes. Doesn’t work with contrast or speedpaint obviously 🤣
I'm always amazed by the fact that MH keeps producing such high quality and versatile products. I did see the product when it was released, but I haven't tried it yet. (Can't justify ordering 1 item from the states...) High quality products being done here too! Interesting idea and I'll be certain to give it a whirl once I actually order the product! Thanks :)
They’ve got a new one called NEWSH which basically turns and acrylic into something “oil like” so you can wipe it off like you would with oils. You can get all these from Element ganes in the U.K. who will ship to Europe.
@@thestateofplay2023 Ye, bought some products from EG. Sadly they don't have/use IOSS so everything gets stuck in customs. Which means i'm slapped with €10-20+ extra + 1-2 months of delivery delay.... :( Which is why I order directly from MH. Yes, it's more expensive freight wise. But if I order for $50+ it's about the same. And they're using UPS, so no problems with customs (+ their extra costs) and no more then 1 week delivery time. :) Yes, PK-Pro is in the EU and i've been meaning to try them out. They do have a lot of MH products. (: I have seen that product. But I never took the time to actually read about it. :(
As a eletronics nerd, that brings me immediately to the idea to build a small machine that creates all the different paints for you. Select what you want from a small tft display and the color is mixed for you :)
I never knew people were saying "this can't be done". That makes zero sense. I've been doing it since I got started, admittedly only about 6 months ago, because I'm a more technical than artistic person. Just made sense to work out the ratios. There is no reason to think it wouldn't work, and yeah works fine for me. Though I use different medium. I mostly use matte medium, and instead of water I use flow improver. I'm not positive, but I have a feeling that "glaze and wash" medium is actually a premixed combination of the same stuff.
Glaze and wash is a weird mix. I wish I could figure out what’s in it. But yeah, watch all the mini painters who say “feel it”. Probably coz they can’t be bothered to work out the drops. 🤣
I love your scientific approach to the hobby. I hate having to "feel" things, I prefer to have a method instead, reproducible and measurable. And yes, I measure the coffee grind size, weight, and coffee-to-water ratio, OF COURSE. And water temperature. But I digress. I love this because it tends to reproducible results, and removes a bit of stress when painting my minis. The only problem I see is finding that medium in my area, I will have to find a local alternative. I have tested Vallejo glaze medium and I hate it, it makes the paint dry soooooooooooo slowly, and the finish is weird. Maybe the Liquitex matte medium mixed with Vallejo glace medium works, I will have to test, as soon as I lay my hands on the Liquitex thing. As always, a funny and useful video. Loved it 😬
@@thestateofplay2023 I'm going to try to find it. The places where I've found it are not near me and shipping costs are just preposterous. I'll keep looking, but anyway I'll test with other similar mediums if I can lay my hands on them! Thanks A LOT for the video!
Great video. Having a limited hobbybudget any multifunctionality is higly welcome and this really cuts back on the nedd to buy washes and other "special function" paints.
your coffee analogy is nice, if you get into coffee really deep you get a scale for your coffee grounds and also your water and also a timer to have the right amount of water going through in the right amount of time, so basically you write down how much coffee and water you use so you have it consistent
What's the 'binder' in coffee? If your issue is visible brush strokes when dry, I'd imagine that's the fault of the binder/medium, and not the pigment alone. With coffee, one only adds water....actually another parallel is using distilled water for both coffee and paint. Now I've forgotten my point....time for coffee!
@@abcdodd My coffee binder is Whiskey. Not sure about yours. 🤣 Visible brush strokes are the paint thickness, I don't believe I said it was the pigment, but I might be wrong. And Yeah, I'm not going to be buying or making distilled water anytime soon. That's stuff is almost the price of medium. Now go have coffee - add whiskey!
Imagining mastering this in combination with your Ink mixing. You could paint whatever you need with like 5 or 6 bottles. Then go buy some metallic powders and you can even add metallic paints to the mix perhaps.
Is that video coming out soon?? I took the plunge and picked up a few liquitex inks and have been mixing colors and putting them into empty bottles, which has been going well, but I'm having difficulty figuring out what ratios with what kinds of mediums to mix with them. @@thestateofplay2023
@@thestateofplay2023 But isnt ink already to thin? Or is there a medium that adds viscocity? Because I was thinking the same as @HavasiP, not because of just having less stuff, but because I like the versatility of doing more with less + speeding up the learning curve than just picking one of of 300 paint bottles.
That Monument Hobbies miracle glaze and wash medium is great stuff. It is quite costly to buy in the UK, but it is worth it. Golden airbrush medium is excellent stuff as well. It seems to increase vibrancy whenever I use it.
I always think of “costly” in this hobby as relative. I’ve literally thousands of pounds worth of models I bought that are unpainted. That pile of shame grows. So £15 for medium is teeny compared to that. Don’t lie. I’m sure your pile of shame is big and costly too. 🤣🤣
great content by the way, we think alike on breaking it down to smaller parts and constructing from there... it's all about exerimintation and developed technique, thank you.
I used the info in your inks and color theory video and now have the keys to the color kingdom. Thank you for that. This opened a door to the question “how much of matte medium and other additives do you use to get traditional paint?” I don’t know if I’ve missed your mentioning this. Could you give some guidance on your approach to mixing the the Liquitex inks with the medium for a standard run of the mill paint? I’ve seen videos for all sorts of mixes but they all start with paint. Paint and this, paint and that… that’s fine but I’m using the “make you own color inks”process and that has me curious how to get a Base acrylic paint. Essentially, a chart like you created in this video but for how to get inks to be paint. Rather than using paint as a starting point.
Ah, that’s like saying how do I thin my paint. It’s all personal preference to how opaque or transparent you want it. But ink is not paint and vice versa. You can get a close approximation but the two are different. Inks are better for making washes and contrast type paints. If you add a medium it’ll be down to your taste. You can add one drop of matte medium or 10 depending on how you want to paint. If you want thicker colour you can add a thickener like gesso or liquithick. You can even use the inks meat. Just varnish after as inks can rub off. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 I get the personal preference to consistency. The aspect is a starting point and what you actually use for just a standard paint. In this video you’ve got all different aspects of what to add to paint to get a glaze or whatever. The question is similar in that in the color theory I never got what the was mixed with ink to get a standard paint. Quantities aside. Is it just matte medium or is there flow-aid as well? I’ll find the consistency and I’m assuming a start is matte medium. If that’s all it is I can then get to a paint that I can use with this video to get to everything else. I value what you’re doing here and find it quite helpful. I just missed the aspects of what you mix with ink to get a basic paint and need to know what that is. From there I’ll figure out the more or less of it.
@@thestateofplay2023 I’ll hard pass on any GW product and make my own of that. It’s easy and more cost effective to make my own from high quality Liquitex products. I figured it was just matte medium you were using as any ink needs a binder to become paint. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a secret ingredient beyond that which you might have added in. Thanks again and keep being awesome with your channel! Champion level stuff.
This was such a great video. As someone new to this hobby & painting in general, I found it fascinating. And being a data analyst, I love the approach! Will definitely be going through your backlog of videos and keeping an eye out for more!
Thank you for another super useful video (not joking), where everything is analyzed down to the smallest detail... and one more thing that I won’t use because of my laziness! But at least I'll know where to find it when I need it! :)
@@thestateofplay2023 Well, what can you do, that’s all I am :) but to be honest, I really like watching these kinds of videos, because firstly, they still remain in my memory, even if I don’t use your templates or something like that. secondly, the general idea still remains with me - and I want to believe this is the main goal of your videos. convey the idea, and then how I will manage it - that’s the next thing
Exactly!! I try to get people to think more about this hobby instead of just repeating the same things over and over because someone said something once. It’s supposed to be creative but somewhere it lost that. I blame TH-cam. 🤣🤣
Oh my god! The type of content I was looking for for a long time! I try to use that kind of system with color mix in order to have a reproductible mix. 1 quarter by 1 quarter.
Thank you for this, quickly becoming one of my favorite channels for this hobby, I learn something incredibly useful everytime. The only aspect of the hobby I use a lot that you haven’t covered super in depth is 3d printing I think! I make almost all my terrain with an fdm printer and most my models with a resin one, curious what your experience with printing for tabletop is
I sold my 3D printer. I got into it very early. Those days when you had to build the printer. I hated it. And I vowed not to get into it again until it was as simple as a 2D printer. I’m still waiting for ease of use to catch up with resolution. I don’t want 12k, 20k, 40k - I want a printer than just automatically figures out best possible print, doesn’t take hours and resin that’s 100% non toxic around kids. It’ll come. Once they figure out that’s how you sell more printers.
Nice work mate, i really enjoyed watching this and it’s something I need to do too. I have a plan of doing a bunch of tests for speedpaints over different coloured base coats but I’ve been putting it off. Maybe a project for me over the Christmas break….I’m feeling inspired!
This was a great video; BUT .. I found it much easier to take in the 2nd time, after I seen your finalized chart. The building of the story was a bit much to sit thru, not knowing where you were going. Introducing an image of the completed chart may have avoided losing some of your audience halfway thru. ... just a thought to share.
That’s a very observant point. Sometimes logically working though something isn’t the best way. In my head it made sense. During the edit I may have got it wrong. Still you came back to watch again so not all lost. 🤣 Thanks for the advice. Always good to get feedback and can work with.
@@thestateofplay2023 no I actually paint with it over a zenithal undercoat, so it's not a wash. The depth of shade depends on the amount of ink you use and I don't use very colour if you want a pale shade because the colour is powerful. All I can suggest is try it for yourself.
@@thestateofplay2023 great video! Enjoyed the watch, and glad you're getting further use out of the G&W Medium. It's a workhorse for so much other than the label tells. We also use it to extend wet blending time and such. :D
Big fan of the channel, and an excellent concept I hope to explore myself A few questions though: which brand of paint did you use as the control for your testing, and how well would this work with the 168 colors mixed from inks you've suggested in a previous video? Do you think the starting consistency of ink would vary too much from traditional acrylics for this experiment, and how well would your "Layman's medium" you've used previously work for this?
Good questions. I did this with citadel paint but tested with Vallejo, Scale75 and Pro Acryl. Inks don’t need this as they’re naturally already thin and more transparent. Thinning is only needed on thicker acrylic paints. My laymans medium works for thinning but, as with many mediums, starts to fail when making glazes or washes. That’s manly because of the already high water content. This exercise was to take a lot of water out of the equation. 👍🏼
This video is amazing, learned so much. How does this work with a wet palette? Seems like that palette is not necessary or removed the need for most of the water added?
@@thestateofplay2023 i tried this today and way preferred it to a wet palette in terms of paint application! however it does dry within 30 min-1 hr unlike a wet palette. For a noob painter like me that needs to go back to previous colors often, it does pose a challenge/additional effort. I tried this with a wet palette but it was so watery, even without adding water to the ratios.
Is this the time where I mention that serious coffee nerds like myself do measure to ~0.1 of a gram the mass of water and coffee used in my brews, so that everything is reliable and repeatable. Hell, I’ve gone as far as to buy demineralised water, and water mineral sachets, so that I can make the exact mineral content and water flavour I desired for the coffee.
How would you make this work with the loved wet pallet? A wet pallet is about as highly encouraged as two thin coats and an airbrush. Now for some of the paint consistencies a wet pallet doesn't work. So would you just add the medium straight to the pallet? Love the video. I want to print those charts now or even have them on a cutting mat
I did have a section in the vid about wet pallettes but removed it. Basically it works but you’ll have a bit less time to work with the paint before it water thins. But with the retarder in this stuff you don’t actually need a wet pallette
I wonder then, if omitting the water from the ratios of drops would allow one to use the wet pallet for all its other benefits? An, “I use skim, so I can add sugar and whipped cream” kind of notion.
How well does this work with acrylic inks? I used your methods to make new colors with the Liquitex Inks and they have given me such beautiful colors, but I struggle a bit to apply them properly. I struggle to make a medium, they are either too thin, too thick, or sometimes not opaque enough. I imagine this Pro Acryl medium makes the ink act more “contrast/speedpaint” like?
This method is for thinning thick paint. I don’t think it will work with inks. However, if you could make the ink thicker with a gel medium like liqitex liquithick then you could use this method to thin them. But that’s a lot of extra work and cost for little benefit.
By any chance are you batching up any of these as premade (by you) base paints and washes to see how they store? After watching this video and another video of your i broke down and ordered a micro scale and 30ml dropper bottles, and i am curious about the shelf life.
As long as it’s airtight. They’ll store, I still have all my Citadel inks from 1988. If you’re worried I even made a video about making a home made humidor for storing paint for longer. 👍🏼
Great Video! My only comment is that if you update in the future, it would be super useful if you showed the results of any experimentation with products other than Pro Acryl Glaze and Wash. They just don't seem to have a presence in my country, and I'd need to order from the States. I'm sure I'm not your only viewer in that boat. On the other hand, Liquitex, Windsor & Newton, and Vallejo products are widely available. Some Army Painter and Citadel too of course, but thinner on the ground (pun intended).
Oh I’m sorry to hear that. The difficulty is that Glaze and wash medium seems to be the Bly thing I’ve found that will do everything. You can thin with other products to all consistencies but not as accurately with drops. For example vallejo glaze medium dries shiny and can’t make a wash well. The only way would be to figure out how to make glaze and wash medium with other products first, then use that.
@@thestateofplay2023 Thanks for your thoughtful response! I MAY have found it in another city here, will still probably experiment with some of the easier to find stuff, i.e. Liquitex sells their whole range of mediums and gels on Amazon here. On a related note, since I have your attention. In your fantastic video on Inks, it may help to warn people that the nice little Basic Ink Liquitex set they sell includes a basic red and blue, and not the Magenta and Cyan you recommend. I can totally see people looking past that. The set doesn't seem to give you a discount where I am at, so buying separately isn't a biggie.
Hey how are you! I'm curious on if you have tried restoring old dry acrylic paints? I have heard of people using distilled water or a thinner if its not too far gone, but I have been reading in forums that IPA, ammonia, acetone, airbrush cleaners, and enamel/lacquer thinners may have stronger effects in terms of thinning and dissolving the paint, do you have any thoughts on that?
With dried out paint, effectively the water content has evaporated and the binder has hardened (kind of). So you’d need to add back the water content and more binder. Those are the only two things needed. Anything else would change the paint. Its a carefully balanced process of adding bit by bit, mixing and then adding more until the paint revives.
@@thestateofplay2023 I see, just curious as I have a bunch of handed down citadel paints that are hardened at the bottom, there is still liquid in some. Hoping you had insight on how to make this easier, though I guess the elbow grease, time and basic ingredients is what is needed. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate your videos very much!
Is it possible you could experiment with thickening paints as well? I've been using acrylic gel for painters to make brush paint out of acrylic inks. Proportions are tricky, and it can feel like I'm missing a third ingredient. Mediums sometimes help make it easier to control.
That’s a much more reasonable approach then the “Milk Consistency”. And since I think I have a bottle of this medium around somewhere, I will add this to my Mad Scientist Christmas experiences. I will need to adjust fore sure for my Scale 75 Artist tubes, but getting those to the right consistency is a daily challenge I could do without.
I just have to make one big correction here. Yes, I have 99% control over how I make my coffee, I use a precision scale, quality grinder and have a special gooseneck kettle with temperature control.
@@thestateofplay2023 Yes, it's just about how much control you want. Just drops don't work for me, I want more control, luckily I have some precision scales that can help me there. And now that I have watched the entire video, I give you 👍
Is there a medium that you would recommend for a newbie? everyone on the internet has different opinions but there aren't any extensive examples I have found of each brand and product/how they work.
Oh man, that’s a minefield to get into. There’s only really 3 you’ll need depending on what you need to do with a brush. Thin, keep it from drying and a contrast/speedpaint medium. The contrast/speedpaint one is easy. Just use the one that works with that brand. So speedpaint medium or contrast medium. It’s almost impossible to make so easier to buy it. The not drying one is called a retarder. And all brands work the same. So it doesn’t matter which you pick up. The last is an ordinary medium. The stuff that goes in your paint anyway. Every brand makes their own but there almost always the same. The difference is price. For a newbie and d recommend citadels Lahmian Medium. Get one pot only. Work with it to get the feel and once competent make your own with water and any matte medium. 75ml water, 5ml matte medium and a few drops of flow aid (or dish soap).
@@thestateofplay2023 I'm new to the mediums and everyone recommends different stuff. Some buy the GW stuff others mix their own, what is Jo sonya magic mix, then some have different thicknesses . There is just so many brands on the market like from AK, Citadel, Green stuff world, monument, vallejo, not to mention all the standard artist ones. I was going to buy a windsor and newton one but realized it is super thick and would require mixing.
Yeah they all want you to buy their brand but the all work the same. Magic mix is great but has a retarder so your paint dries slower. It’s good, but not if you want to paint fast. 🤣 People tend to recommend the one they used first and got used to. To start buy whatever medium goes with the paint brand you use. So if you paint with citadel buy theirs. If it’s AK, buy theirs. Makes it much simpler and over time you can experiment with others. The trick is to make people buy them for you as birthday gifts!! 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Great tips from you, thanks ^^ I have been struggling about this for days and have watched so many videos about it idk why it is so difficult when they are all about the same, I guess its the words and naming for the products that make it confusing.
@@thestateofplay2023 care/ maintenance. How to stop paint getting in the ferrule because for the life of me I can’t. And I use synthetic brushes so are there any decent ones out there. I guess I’m just asking for another product review 😂 I just want to say again I love your videos. They are so informative and helpful.
hello from central Mexico... can I use my home made flow instead of water... FLOW for Paint 2/3 Distilled Water 1/3 Isopropyl Alcohol 99% 1 Drop Of Glycerine
In this hobby you Not allowed say you can thin paint with ratios. Pretty much every channel that paints minis keeps saying you can’t. I’ll get my mini painters membership revoked for saying the opposite. Like a magician explaining a trick! 🤣
I refuse to buy washes, they are great but I feel like I'm paying too much for glorified paint that has been thinned down, is just better to buy inks and make your own washes.
This is very interesting research, however i feel that if we are going to get more scientific and move on from Necromunda terrain guy your gonna need a white lab coat. it adds instant credibility. But I'll let it slide on this occasion due to the festive jumper.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
This was actually so helpful. Not only for, ratios. This helped me understand the different techniques. How they differ from each other on theoretical and practical levels.
As a newbie painter, this is tutorial gold.
Well thank you. I’m glad it helped.
You are standing out amongst the content creators with your independent thought and and no nonsense approach to a hobby that is overwhelmed by trends and “ chasing your tail” syndrome .Thanks for a great service to the hobby community delivered with humor. Fun is really all that matters with a hobby.
Amen to that! The hobby should be fun and creative.
😃 Exactly! @@thestateofplay2023 Watching you talking so honestly is a true joy... I am a veteran ( almost 50!) mini painter and your videos are like any casual conversation between aficionados in a modelling shop. The ones I really loved.
Yup we’re the same age so we’ve both probably heard it all before. 🤣 you know when the younger crowd tell you stuff and you’re like, “Uhuh, I tried that in 1985 and it sucked back then”. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 yes! hahaha.. by the way, I agree with you in that weekends are for eating, resting, drinking ... and repeat in whatever order you like! ;)
Turning art into a repeatable science. A man after my own heart.
Art, science and magic are all interchangeable. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 I am about to my own experimentation which is mix between you, Goober and Dana Howl to determine how I like to paint
You absolute legend! I love that your content keeps in mind that your audience may not have the resources other channels do as pro or even semi pro content creators do. You really are empowering your audience to develop their own style, built on deep understanding of their tools. I think blank versions of this grid along with your diy ink/paint chart, project planning pages (that reference the previous two) and some blank pages might make for an incredible paint journal.
🤣 yeah I do watch a load of channels and always think “terrain for $0?!, but what about the $400 of tools and material you used!”
Dude, where have you been? I’ve learned more no nonsense tips in the few short months I’ve been watching than years of other creators. Keep it up. Thank you for your time.
I’ve been right here. TH-cam rolls me out when the big creators are busy. 🤣🤣🤣I’m the backup plan.
Will, as an old beginner (after a 40 year break), returning to the hobby with your excellent guidance is appreciated. Downloaded and used the patreon docs today... was like a Christmas present to my painting, finally, some good mixing with the Pro Acryl and your ratios and I feel like I'm starting to get it 🙂
Oh man that’s great news! Hope you’re having a great Christmas!
@@thestateofplay2023 having a great Christmas, wishing the same to you!
Every time I see a new chart from this channel, I *RUSH* to the Patreon to download it. They're always so useful that I know it's worth having even before I watch the accompanying video. You're a hero of the hobby!
You know I nearly forgot to upload it. 🤣🤣
Finally a systematic engineer's guide to paint!
Haha! You got me. You can give an engineer a paint brush but you better tell him exactly how many bristles are in that thing…🤣
Time to raid my son's (hopefully) forgotten LEGO drawer. I am unduly pumped at this drybrushing tip!
That’s what I did. A dawn raid! Never understood all these complex builds when Lego just works.
Number nerds of the hobby unite! All you have to lose is your imprecise consistencies.
As a fan of a good infographic, you sir, are a gentleman and a scholar. 🖖
That's a great one page representation.
Nice to know I’m not the only hobby nerd who likes a good chart!!
I wasn't sold on this video from the title, but watching it I have realized that I have to eat some crow. This is intensely useful! Thanks for another informative and useful video!
Honestly, if you and Goobertown Hobbies teamed up the two of you could make THE single most informative, educational, and inspirational wargaming channel. For now I will settle for the the TWO most informative, educational, and inspirational wargaming channels! Keep cracking on!
Right. Note to self. Titles aren’t click baity enough. Far too informative. 🤣🤣 I’ll start 2024 with semi naked women in the thumbnail and a big “FOR $0”. 👍🏼🤣
So I retitled the video in your honour.
I LOVE the content of this video. Specifically your concise explanations of most of the miniature painting techniques we're likely to be using.
Thank you my dear sir. I just spent Christmas explaining the entire Marvel Universe to a 6 year old girl… so I’ve had practice being concise!! 🤣🤣
As a scientist I approve this video and your excellent chart! Very helpful! 🤓
🤣🤣 As a fellow scientist, I approve this message!
@@thestateofplay2023what field are you in, if you don’t mind sharing?
@@ger5956 I'm a qualified Product Designer and Mechanical Engineer who's worked in advertising for 30 years.
Yes, this!
In the airbrush art field, we've been doing this for many years. With too much water, you "break" the paint because the binder is gets destroyed. For transparency, you mix with a transparent/base medium and only use water to thin.
I think a lot of different fields should get together and swap notes. Each hobby always gets so insular and never looks outside. Thanks for this!
Yeah I use Golden airbrush medium. Got like a truck sized bottle of it that I put into smaller dropper bottles.
It was a combination of some pro acryl paints really falling apart when adding water and learning and experimenting with an air brush that really got me thinking and ready to ditch the water and start playing with more types of mediums.
@thestateofplay2023 the scale modeling and railroad train groups seem to have an insane amount of experience to offer the mini painting field. It's crazy to me that youtube doesn't recommend me any videos for either of those two categories but if I search for them there is an incredible wealth of videos to learn more about oil paints, weathering, air brushing, terrain, different kinds of tools (tamiya alcohol based acrylics just came in vogue for mini painting but have been in use for years and years).
@@thestateofplay2023 I have this one local hobby shop that doesn't really sell any Warhammer specific stuff, so mainly has older scale modelers hanging around there just chatting for hours on end. I have learned so much from them that just never comes up in the Warhammer-sphere. It is weirdly insular within the world of painting small things. Often just simple stuff like keeping your super glue in the fridge if you want to maximise its lifespan, or how to actually use Microset and Microsol correctly for transfers. Products that you can get for cheap from a hardware store or general art store instead of paying hobby prices for a few mls of some basic chemical that you can get a litre of at half the price, such as mixing Liquitex Heavy Gloss Gel Medium with various red paints to make fake blood in a variety of tones (though I still like to support my local hobby shops too.)
Dude your videos and style really resonate with me. Keep on doing it. Very cool. Love your work
Thanks man!
Another superb vid based on considered thinking and a LOT of research behind the scenes.
The truism that we all need to learn to thin our paint to our own ideal brush feel for each application is upheld, but the straightforward description of various technique based paint consistencies, that critically relates each to brush loading (the part folks always miss out and still leave you to experiment and find out by experience alone) makes the targets very clear indeed.
The guiding use of drop combinations again helps folks get closer to the general area and adds confidence to practically experiment
Masterwork, mug of tea and biscuit, gold star
It really should sell a lot of the proacryl glaze and wash medium, you are a real gift to retail focus, you had me at "it dries nicely matt". I've been using vallejo glaze to increase transparency making multiple passes instead to offset my hand tremor as my main working technique so it seems we're in accord (That and using erasable oils)
I call it four thin coats, but I'm not sure it'll catch on...
All the vid needed was a visit from your lovely cuddly (despite hobby despair), stock film wife to be perfect
(fond regards to your real one too - yes actual regards lol, go tell her 😇)
Thanks as always Phil. You can put the man on TH-cam, but it’s hard to shake the veteran ad man.
As for Vallejo glaze medium. It’s great stuff and works well other than the shine it leaves.
I shall let my wife know. When I’m allowed near. I’ve caught something from the kids AGAIN!!
@@thestateofplay2023School attending children are the most powerful disease vector in modern human history, a more dangerous bite than the anaphales mosquito, only slightly less lethal than prehistoric sharks in a Jason Statham movie
You need to put some traps down
@16:13 my heart flipped what a piece of nostalgia!
Yeah I still have 3 sets. Chaos, Monsters and Soacewat!
Love the jumper!
Of course. It’s Christmas. Got get in the festive spirit! xx
I thought about making a test grid like yours one day, but a little different. My level of skill with thinning isn't good enough yet to do this but maybe you can. For the test grid, make it so that you have test spots that are different opacity, with the theory being you can have specific test strips for different levels of thinning. So test strips for washes would be much easier to cover than test strips for base coats. To test with this you would brush over the corresponding test spot with your paints and see if it covers the test marker completely. If it does then your paint is either perfect or too thick. No real way to test for too thick, but this way you can at least test for too thin because the underlying test marker will be more or less opaque depending on your goal.
Problem is different paint have different transparencies so how would you know on the grid what to print the base opacity. 👍🏼
This video got me thinking on the following, which I would love your opinion on:
My general idea for painting so far is, following your different consistencies:
1) Priming on the darkest value + color (or just black as default). This would be Base.
2) Layering (this could be multiple zenithal highlights + drybrush) up to lightest value.
3) Washes for enhancing darkest values on recesses.
4) Layer again for any color quite different from layering colours.
5) Details + edge highlighting
Now up to step 3, Im pretty sure one can make do with a primer, Inks, flow improver, medium.
My concern is whether for step 4 and 5 you MUST use acrylic paint (AP fanatic or any other) or you can somehow manage by increasing ink thickness and viscosity.
My reasoning is that by doing more layers of more transparent paint one could get a better range of values and tones, increasing overall quality of the output. But what happens when you need to paint certain parts were its paramount to cover most of the underlying bases?
Ok after reading deeper in the comments that apparently you can thick inks with some products, my follow up question would be whether its worth that vs just mixing some primary color paint with other color ink and work from there. I guess that once you mix it with Ink, the viscosity / thickness is not the same, so one might end up having to do at least 2 thin coats non the less.
Im just trying to work my head around whether its worth all the flexibility vs buying the complete set of speed paints 2.0 and a primer 😂 in terms of speed/quality balance
Ok I think I FOUND what I needed: Acrylic Gouaches (also from Liquitex). They are matte, they are single pigment so should work with your mixing charts. So a CYMK set of both Inks and Gouaches should provide tons of options from few products, to cover all steps of the painting process. Sorry for all this spam + thinking out loud 😅
You can just use the inks too. You’d just need to lighten any base ink with an opaque lighter colour. Like titanium white or similar. Then you can paint with it directly.
@@thestateofplay2023 great will try that too! Thanks!
Going to be honest. icba having all these bottles around when my water cup is right there and now I have a drawer full of mediums I never use.
Great vid though. Should help people getting started on learning the 'feel' of their paint!
You should use them. They are way better than water. 👍🏼
Finally I have an educated way to aproach my paint dilution, as you said, maybe we will need to adjust ratio if we change of paint brands. Thank you
Yeah, although it works with Prio Acryl, citadel, Vallejo, AK, Scake 75. Needs more medium with Kinera and Scale Colour artist tubes. Doesn’t work with contrast or speedpaint obviously 🤣
Dammit, someone pinched my Christmas salt! This is excellent, thank you
I’ll send you some…🤣
I'm always amazed by the fact that MH keeps producing such high quality and versatile products. I did see the product when it was released, but I haven't tried it yet. (Can't justify ordering 1 item from the states...)
High quality products being done here too! Interesting idea and I'll be certain to give it a whirl once I actually order the product! Thanks :)
They’ve got a new one called NEWSH which basically turns and acrylic into something “oil like” so you can wipe it off like you would with oils.
You can get all these from Element ganes in the U.K. who will ship to Europe.
@@thestateofplay2023
Ye, bought some products from EG.
Sadly they don't have/use IOSS so everything gets stuck in customs. Which means i'm slapped with €10-20+ extra + 1-2 months of delivery delay.... :(
Which is why I order directly from MH. Yes, it's more expensive freight wise. But if I order for $50+ it's about the same. And they're using UPS, so no problems with customs (+ their extra costs) and no more then 1 week delivery time. :)
Yes, PK-Pro is in the EU and i've been meaning to try them out. They do have a lot of MH products. (:
I have seen that product. But I never took the time to actually read about it. :(
@@thestateofplay2023 Bloody salesmen....
😇
As a eletronics nerd, that brings me immediately to the idea to build a small machine that creates all the different paints for you.
Select what you want from a small tft display and the color is mixed for you :)
You build it. I’ll showcase it. 😜
"smeared drybrush" damn, ya got me
You’re not the only smearer, I assure you!
I never knew people were saying "this can't be done". That makes zero sense. I've been doing it since I got started, admittedly only about 6 months ago, because I'm a more technical than artistic person. Just made sense to work out the ratios. There is no reason to think it wouldn't work, and yeah works fine for me. Though I use different medium. I mostly use matte medium, and instead of water I use flow improver. I'm not positive, but I have a feeling that "glaze and wash" medium is actually a premixed combination of the same stuff.
Glaze and wash is a weird mix. I wish I could figure out what’s in it. But yeah, watch all the mini painters who say “feel it”. Probably coz they can’t be bothered to work out the drops. 🤣
1:35 and the entire specialty coffee industry just gasped xd
I did say “I’m going to do something controversial…” 🤣🤣🤣
I love your scientific approach to the hobby. I hate having to "feel" things, I prefer to have a method instead, reproducible and measurable. And yes, I measure the coffee grind size, weight, and coffee-to-water ratio, OF COURSE. And water temperature. But I digress. I love this because it tends to reproducible results, and removes a bit of stress when painting my minis.
The only problem I see is finding that medium in my area, I will have to find a local alternative. I have tested Vallejo glaze medium and I hate it, it makes the paint dry soooooooooooo slowly, and the finish is weird. Maybe the Liquitex matte medium mixed with Vallejo glace medium works, I will have to test, as soon as I lay my hands on the Liquitex thing.
As always, a funny and useful video. Loved it 😬
Hmm, can you get the medium online? It’s pretty integral to this process. Although if you can recreate it then go for it!!
@@thestateofplay2023 I'm going to try to find it. The places where I've found it are not near me and shipping costs are just preposterous. I'll keep looking, but anyway I'll test with other similar mediums if I can lay my hands on them! Thanks A LOT for the video!
Christmas salt. Right, that's everyone's gifts sorted. The paint/medium ratio bit was helpful too. Cheers!
You can get Christmas salt from big yellow tubs at the side of the road. Sssh! Don’t tell everyone. I think it might be illegal to take it.
Thank you Thank you Thank you!!!! This made so much sense and answered sooooo many questions!
Woah! That’s a lot of thank yous. I hope it helped!
I thin with Golden's High Flow Medium no problems yet and it works great with acrylic craft prints. Will try this method too.
👍🏼
Excellent presentation; I grasp charts much better than words.
Yes me too. Charts always help me to figure things out easier.
Great video. Having a limited hobbybudget any multifunctionality is higly welcome and this really cuts back on the nedd to buy washes and other "special function" paints.
Glad it helped!
your coffee analogy is nice, if you get into coffee really deep you get a scale for your coffee grounds and also your water and also a timer to have the right amount of water going through in the right amount of time, so basically you write down how much coffee and water you use so you have it consistent
aha! So you see my point. If you CAN make coffee with ratios then you CAN do paint.
What's the 'binder' in coffee? If your issue is visible brush strokes when dry, I'd imagine that's the fault of the binder/medium, and not the pigment alone.
With coffee, one only adds water....actually another parallel is using distilled water for both coffee and paint.
Now I've forgotten my point....time for coffee!
@@abcdodd My coffee binder is Whiskey. Not sure about yours. 🤣 Visible brush strokes are the paint thickness, I don't believe I said it was the pigment, but I might be wrong. And Yeah, I'm not going to be buying or making distilled water anytime soon. That's stuff is almost the price of medium. Now go have coffee - add whiskey!
Imagining mastering this in combination with your Ink mixing. You could paint whatever you need with like 5 or 6 bottles. Then go buy some metallic powders and you can even add metallic paints to the mix perhaps.
You’ve discovered my secret plan for paint domination!! 🤣
Is that video coming out soon?? I took the plunge and picked up a few liquitex inks and have been mixing colors and putting them into empty bottles, which has been going well, but I'm having difficulty figuring out what ratios with what kinds of mediums to mix with them. @@thestateofplay2023
@@thestateofplay2023 But isnt ink already to thin? Or is there a medium that adds viscocity? Because I was thinking the same as @HavasiP, not because of just having less stuff, but because I like the versatility of doing more with less + speeding up the learning curve than just picking one of of 300 paint bottles.
That Monument Hobbies miracle glaze and wash medium is great stuff. It is quite costly to buy in the UK, but it is worth it.
Golden airbrush medium is excellent stuff as well. It seems to increase vibrancy whenever I use it.
I always think of “costly” in this hobby as relative. I’ve literally thousands of pounds worth of models I bought that are unpainted. That pile of shame grows. So £15 for medium is teeny compared to that.
Don’t lie. I’m sure your pile of shame is big and costly too. 🤣🤣
great content by the way, we think alike on breaking it down to smaller parts and constructing from there... it's all about exerimintation and developed technique, thank you.
Yes! You’re right. It’s all about trying new things. Not repeating what everyone does. We do think alike. 😀
Thx... I really enjoy your dry humor & well laid out content.
Thanks! I hope to see you back again.
Awesome, a chart vid, just in time for Christmas - great video as per usual - seasons greetings
Man, if I new everyone wanted charts I’d have become a Doctor! 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 🤣
This was fascinating.
It's like a cross between science and Tony Hart!
Yes but Tony had Morph. And I have… blue tak. 😜
Very glad I stumbled across this. Thanks!
I’m glad too. Welcome!
Really enjoying your content and practical approach. Nicely done sir!
Cheers!
I used the info in your inks and color theory video and now have the keys to the color kingdom. Thank you for that.
This opened a door to the question “how much of matte medium and other additives do you use to get traditional paint?”
I don’t know if I’ve missed your mentioning this. Could you give some guidance on your approach to mixing the the Liquitex inks with the medium for a standard run of the mill paint?
I’ve seen videos for all sorts of mixes but they all start with paint. Paint and this, paint and that… that’s fine but I’m using the “make you own color inks”process and that has me curious how to get a Base acrylic paint. Essentially, a chart like you created in this video but for how to get inks to be paint. Rather than using paint as a starting point.
Ah, that’s like saying how do I thin my paint. It’s all personal preference to how opaque or transparent you want it.
But ink is not paint and vice versa. You can get a close approximation but the two are different. Inks are better for making washes and contrast type paints. If you add a medium it’ll be down to your taste. You can add one drop of matte medium or 10 depending on how you want to paint. If you want thicker colour you can add a thickener like gesso or liquithick. You can even use the inks meat. Just varnish after as inks can rub off. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 I get the personal preference to consistency. The aspect is a starting point and what you actually use for just a standard paint. In this video you’ve got all different aspects of what to add to paint to get a glaze or whatever.
The question is similar in that in the color theory I never got what the was mixed with ink to get a standard paint. Quantities aside. Is it just matte medium or is there flow-aid as well?
I’ll find the consistency and I’m assuming a start is matte medium. If that’s all it is I can then get to a paint that I can use with this video to get to everything else. I value what you’re doing here and find it quite helpful. I just missed the aspects of what you mix with ink to get a basic paint and need to know what that is. From there I’ll figure out the more or less of it.
Yes I’d start with matte medium. Or even citadel Lahmian if you have any.
@@thestateofplay2023 I’ll hard pass on any GW product and make my own of that. It’s easy and more cost effective to make my own from high quality Liquitex products.
I figured it was just matte medium you were using as any ink needs a binder to become paint. I just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a secret ingredient beyond that which you might have added in. Thanks again and keep being awesome with your channel! Champion level stuff.
This was such a great video. As someone new to this hobby & painting in general, I found it fascinating. And being a data analyst, I love the approach! Will definitely be going through your backlog of videos and keeping an eye out for more!
Hey! You may like the ink mixing video then. 👍🏼
Thank you so much!
You’re welcome. Do some experiments!
Thank you for another super useful video (not joking), where everything is analyzed down to the smallest detail... and one more thing that I won’t use because of my laziness! But at least I'll know where to find it when I need it! :)
🤣🤣 I love your honest, candid comments!
@@thestateofplay2023 Well, what can you do, that’s all I am :)
but to be honest, I really like watching these kinds of videos, because firstly, they still remain in my memory, even if I don’t use your templates or something like that. secondly, the general idea still remains with me - and I want to believe this is the main goal of your videos. convey the idea, and then how I will manage it - that’s the next thing
Exactly!! I try to get people to think more about this hobby instead of just repeating the same things over and over because someone said something once. It’s supposed to be creative but somewhere it lost that. I blame TH-cam. 🤣🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 indeed, someone has to be blamed🤣🤣
Oh my god! The type of content I was looking for for a long time! I try to use that kind of system with color mix in order to have a reproductible mix. 1 quarter by 1 quarter.
Yes! This. A reproducible mix. I’m not a fan of fiddling for ages either. 👍🏼
Thank you for this, quickly becoming one of my favorite channels for this hobby, I learn something incredibly useful everytime. The only aspect of the hobby I use a lot that you haven’t covered super in depth is 3d printing I think! I make almost all my terrain with an fdm printer and most my models with a resin one, curious what your experience with printing for tabletop is
I sold my 3D printer. I got into it very early. Those days when you had to build the printer. I hated it. And I vowed not to get into it again until it was as simple as a 2D printer. I’m still waiting for ease of use to catch up with resolution. I don’t want 12k, 20k, 40k - I want a printer than just automatically figures out best possible print, doesn’t take hours and resin that’s 100% non toxic around kids. It’ll come. Once they figure out that’s how you sell more printers.
Nice work mate, i really enjoyed watching this and it’s something I need to do too. I have a plan of doing a bunch of tests for speedpaints over different coloured base coats but I’ve been putting it off. Maybe a project for me over the Christmas break….I’m feeling inspired!
I’m glad I’m inspiring more people to go against the status quo!! This hobby is supposed to be creative, so BE creative. 🤣
really great video. I love this.
Thanks mate!
Quality experiments, and informative as ever.
Thanks Paul. I might buy a lab coat!
Great video ... all the information they don't actually teach you at Art School!
They TEACH at art school? 🤣🤣 I went. I’m pretty sure I learnt more about beer.
@@thestateofplay2023 I definitely learnt a few things, but nothing about Art 🤣
This was a great video; BUT .. I found it much easier to take in the 2nd time, after I seen your finalized chart. The building of the story was a bit much to sit thru, not knowing where you were going. Introducing an image of the completed chart may have avoided losing some of your audience halfway thru. ... just a thought to share.
That’s a very observant point. Sometimes logically working though something isn’t the best way. In my head it made sense. During the edit I may have got it wrong. Still you came back to watch again so not all lost. 🤣
Thanks for the advice. Always good to get feedback and can work with.
This was brilliant! Thank you!
Challenging the status quo is my middle name! Well, actually it’s William but who’s splitting hairs! Thanks as always Peter!
Really good video mate thank you. Would be interesting to see if replacing water with flow improver works better or not 🤔
It makes it far too runny. It just runs down the model off onto the base in a big puddle. 🤷🏼♂️
I use the same stuff for "painting" with acrylic ink, although I blended my medium with 1/5 distilled water, 1/5 flow agent and 3/5 medium
Does that mix make a good wash?
@@thestateofplay2023 no I actually paint with it over a zenithal undercoat, so it's not a wash. The depth of shade depends on the amount of ink you use and I don't use very colour if you want a pale shade because the colour is powerful. All I can suggest is try it for yourself.
Ive shared this with jason craze from monument hobbies. Hes a really nice guy so may share it about. As its a good informative video.
Thanks David. I think. 🤣
@@thestateofplay2023 one thing I've learnt about Jason is he loves a bit of humour and appreciates feedback on their products
@@davidhills7986 Oh I love their products. Can't wait to see what I can get out of NEWSH!
The primer is great but I don't think they make a bad product. Newsh would save me a lot of faff with oil paints
@@thestateofplay2023 great video! Enjoyed the watch, and glad you're getting further use out of the G&W Medium. It's a workhorse for so much other than the label tells. We also use it to extend wet blending time and such. :D
8:34 I’ve never heard this tip (as far as I know). Thank you!
Yeah it makes glazing so much easier. No flooding the model and very precise with a pointy brush! 🤞🏼
I love the Glaze and Wash Medium, and have used it as you have, just not as well thought out or documented. 😂
So your saying I went too far? 🤣🤣 ok the chart may have been overkill.
Big fan of the channel, and an excellent concept I hope to explore myself
A few questions though: which brand of paint did you use as the control for your testing, and how well would this work with the 168 colors mixed from inks you've suggested in a previous video? Do you think the starting consistency of ink would vary too much from traditional acrylics for this experiment, and how well would your "Layman's medium" you've used previously work for this?
Good questions. I did this with citadel paint but tested with Vallejo, Scale75 and Pro Acryl.
Inks don’t need this as they’re naturally already thin and more transparent. Thinning is only needed on thicker acrylic paints.
My laymans medium works for thinning but, as with many mediums, starts to fail when making glazes or washes. That’s manly because of the already high water content.
This exercise was to take a lot of water out of the equation. 👍🏼
This video is amazing, learned so much. How does this work with a wet palette? Seems like that palette is not necessary or removed the need for most of the water added?
The glaze and wash medium is also a retarder so no wet pallette is needed for this. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 i tried this today and way preferred it to a wet palette in terms of paint application! however it does dry within 30 min-1 hr unlike a wet palette. For a noob painter like me that needs to go back to previous colors often, it does pose a challenge/additional effort. I tried this with a wet palette but it was so watery, even without adding water to the ratios.
Is this the time where I mention that serious coffee nerds like myself do measure to ~0.1 of a gram the mass of water and coffee used in my brews, so that everything is reliable and repeatable. Hell, I’ve gone as far as to buy demineralised water, and water mineral sachets, so that I can make the exact mineral content and water flavour I desired for the coffee.
Don't tell James Hoffman about his analogy!
As I said to someone else above. If you CAN make coffee with ratios then you CAN do paint too! 😂
Norman, is your mother home ?
@bored_pyro or his mustached cousin, Hames Joffmann
@@bored_pyro just give me the grams, Gordon!
How would you make this work with the loved wet pallet? A wet pallet is about as highly encouraged as two thin coats and an airbrush. Now for some of the paint consistencies a wet pallet doesn't work. So would you just add the medium straight to the pallet? Love the video. I want to print those charts now or even have them on a cutting mat
I did have a section in the vid about wet pallettes but removed it. Basically it works but you’ll have a bit less time to work with the paint before it water thins. But with the retarder in this stuff you don’t actually need a wet pallette
I wonder then, if omitting the water from the ratios of drops would allow one to use the wet pallet for all its other benefits? An, “I use skim, so I can add sugar and whipped cream” kind of notion.
How well does this work with acrylic inks? I used your methods to make new colors with the Liquitex Inks and they have given me such beautiful colors, but I struggle a bit to apply them properly. I struggle to make a medium, they are either too thin, too thick, or sometimes not opaque enough. I imagine this Pro Acryl medium makes the ink act more “contrast/speedpaint” like?
This method is for thinning thick paint. I don’t think it will work with inks. However, if you could make the ink thicker with a gel medium like liqitex liquithick then you could use this method to thin them. But that’s a lot of extra work and cost for little benefit.
Cool
👨🏻
Awww I was hoping this involves your Layman's medium xD
Yeah I tried. It did everything accept make a good wash. Sadly.
By any chance are you batching up any of these as premade (by you) base paints and washes to see how they store? After watching this video and another video of your i broke down and ordered a micro scale and 30ml dropper bottles, and i am curious about the shelf life.
As long as it’s airtight. They’ll store, I still have all my Citadel inks from 1988. If you’re worried I even made a video about making a home made humidor for storing paint for longer. 👍🏼
Great Video! My only comment is that if you update in the future, it would be super useful if you showed the results of any experimentation with products other than Pro Acryl Glaze and Wash. They just don't seem to have a presence in my country, and I'd need to order from the States. I'm sure I'm not your only viewer in that boat. On the other hand, Liquitex, Windsor & Newton, and Vallejo products are widely available. Some Army Painter and Citadel too of course, but thinner on the ground (pun intended).
Oh I’m sorry to hear that. The difficulty is that Glaze and wash medium seems to be the Bly thing I’ve found that will do everything. You can thin with other products to all consistencies but not as accurately with drops. For example vallejo glaze medium dries shiny and can’t make a wash well. The only way would be to figure out how to make glaze and wash medium with other products first, then use that.
@@thestateofplay2023 Thanks for your thoughtful response! I MAY have found it in another city here, will still probably experiment with some of the easier to find stuff, i.e. Liquitex sells their whole range of mediums and gels on Amazon here.
On a related note, since I have your attention. In your fantastic video on Inks, it may help to warn people that the nice little Basic Ink Liquitex set they sell includes a basic red and blue, and not the Magenta and Cyan you recommend. I can totally see people looking past that. The set doesn't seem to give you a discount where I am at, so buying separately isn't a biggie.
Hey how are you! I'm curious on if you have tried restoring old dry acrylic paints? I have heard of people using distilled water or a thinner if its not too far gone, but I have been reading in forums that IPA, ammonia, acetone, airbrush cleaners, and enamel/lacquer thinners may have stronger effects in terms of thinning and dissolving the paint, do you have any thoughts on that?
With dried out paint, effectively the water content has evaporated and the binder has hardened (kind of). So you’d need to add back the water content and more binder. Those are the only two things needed. Anything else would change the paint. Its a carefully balanced process of adding bit by bit, mixing and then adding more until the paint revives.
@@thestateofplay2023 I see, just curious as I have a bunch of handed down citadel paints that are hardened at the bottom, there is still liquid in some. Hoping you had insight on how to make this easier, though I guess the elbow grease, time and basic ingredients is what is needed. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate your videos very much!
What are the brushes you are using for your base and layer painting?
Raphael 8404. Sizes 1 and 2
Is it possible you could experiment with thickening paints as well? I've been using acrylic gel for painters to make brush paint out of acrylic inks. Proportions are tricky, and it can feel like I'm missing a third ingredient. Mediums sometimes help make it easier to control.
Try liquitex liquithick
@@thestateofplay2023 That sounds great, thanks!
That’s a much more reasonable approach then the “Milk Consistency”. And since I think I have a bottle of this medium around somewhere, I will add this to my Mad Scientist Christmas experiences. I will need to adjust fore sure for my Scale 75 Artist tubes, but getting those to the right consistency is a daily challenge I could do without.
I just have to make one big correction here. Yes, I have 99% control over how I make my coffee, I use a precision scale, quality grinder and have a special gooseneck kettle with temperature control.
So you proved my point that you CAN have the same control over paint. You don’t need to ‘feel’ it. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Yes, it's just about how much control you want. Just drops don't work for me, I want more control, luckily I have some precision scales that can help me there. And now that I have watched the entire video, I give you 👍
@@henriksorensen82 Thanks!
As a scientist.....I come here for the graphs and charts....
Oh well you came to the right place!
@@thestateofplay2023 you and Stahly make my heart sing.
Goobertown here in the USA is a PhD chemist and painter, the handsomness is a bonus....
I actually do weigh my coffee beans and water, between 8 and 10 grams of coffee to 300ml of water depending on the coffee I am making.
Aha! So you proved my point. If it CAN be done with coffee then it CAN be done with paint. You don’t have to “feel” it. 🤣🤣
Is there a medium that you would recommend for a newbie? everyone on the internet has different opinions but there aren't any extensive examples I have found of each brand and product/how they work.
Oh man, that’s a minefield to get into. There’s only really 3 you’ll need depending on what you need to do with a brush. Thin, keep it from drying and a contrast/speedpaint medium.
The contrast/speedpaint one is easy. Just use the one that works with that brand. So speedpaint medium or contrast medium. It’s almost impossible to make so easier to buy it.
The not drying one is called a retarder. And all brands work the same. So it doesn’t matter which you pick up.
The last is an ordinary medium. The stuff that goes in your paint anyway. Every brand makes their own but there almost always the same. The difference is price. For a newbie and d recommend citadels Lahmian Medium. Get one pot only. Work with it to get the feel and once competent make your own with water and any matte medium. 75ml water, 5ml matte medium and a few drops of flow aid (or dish soap).
@@thestateofplay2023 I'm new to the mediums and everyone recommends different stuff. Some buy the GW stuff others mix their own, what is Jo sonya magic mix, then some have different thicknesses . There is just so many brands on the market like from AK, Citadel, Green stuff world, monument, vallejo, not to mention all the standard artist ones. I was going to buy a windsor and newton one but realized it is super thick and would require mixing.
Yeah they all want you to buy their brand but the all work the same. Magic mix is great but has a retarder so your paint dries slower. It’s good, but not if you want to paint fast. 🤣
People tend to recommend the one they used first and got used to. To start buy whatever medium goes with the paint brand you use. So if you paint with citadel buy theirs. If it’s AK, buy theirs. Makes it much simpler and over time you can experiment with others.
The trick is to make people buy them for you as birthday gifts!! 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 Great tips from you, thanks ^^ I have been struggling about this for days and have watched so many videos about it idk why it is so difficult when they are all about the same, I guess its the words and naming for the products that make it confusing.
@@thestateofplay2023 Ah I just realized, I enjoy your videos very much. Thank you for all the knowledge and information!
When’s the video on brushes? This was stupidly informative
What would you like to know about brushes. I’ll add it to the list. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 care/ maintenance. How to stop paint getting in the ferrule because for the life of me I can’t. And I use synthetic brushes so are there any decent ones out there. I guess I’m just asking for another product review 😂
I just want to say again I love your videos. They are so informative and helpful.
Subscribed, but you mention in the video you make your own medium in your 8 tips video but I cant find it anywhere!!
It's in the two pots of water section. Or on my website on the tips page. Cheers!
@@thestateofplay2023 yeah I did manage to find it eventually, when you prep your inks how much did you prep? And did you prep them all?
So that medium is sold out now, lol. But buying direct from local shops feels better anyway, they’re the only ones who have it.
Hmm, I do have a habit of that on this channel. 🤣 🤣 Newsh looks sold out too. I’ll hold off on that video then…😜
hello from central Mexico... can I use my home made flow instead of water...
FLOW for Paint
2/3 Distilled Water
1/3 Isopropyl Alcohol 99%
1 Drop Of Glycerine
You can use that but the alcohol will cause the paint to dry quicker. 👍🏼
@@thestateofplay2023 thank you, good point...
And WOW! Mexico! When I make these videos, I never expect them to travel so far. Thanks!!
How this is really controversial? Any chemical reaction can be exact.
In this hobby you Not allowed say you can thin paint with ratios. Pretty much every channel that paints minis keeps saying you can’t. I’ll get my mini painters membership revoked for saying the opposite. Like a magician explaining a trick! 🤣
Wait wait…did you say. Slows the drying time. Thins the paint and what else…did you just describe acrylic retarder? But runny…?
Sounds like it but no. It’s not the same. Because this changes the consistency of the paint. Try doing it with retarder. It won’t work.
Where are you from? It sometimes sounds scotish :)
Durham originally. Scotland is not that far.
Do people not measure coffee? Have I been making coffee wrong for 25 years?
You may be one of those specialty coffee connoisseurs. Most people grab and handful of beans or a pre-ground random spoonful🤣
Everything is true not Everything is cannon 😂.
True. Or is it? 🤣
I refuse to buy washes, they are great but I feel like I'm paying too much for glorified paint that has been thinned down, is just better to buy inks and make your own washes.
Makes sense!
This is very interesting research, however i feel that if we are going to get more scientific and move on from Necromunda terrain guy your gonna need a white lab coat. it adds instant credibility. But I'll let it slide on this occasion due to the festive jumper.
Next time. For sure. Now, where do I find a lab coat…🤔