Great info thank you! Did you end up making the “how to cut” video? I have a spare rotor I chopped up for a cutting jig looking to see how everyone does it before I build again
The number or letter codes stamped into the rotors on each side seal slot corrensponds with a precut side seal that's within a tolerance "range" that falls within spec, but is not guaranteed to be consistant or within your preferred tolerance. For first time builders that may not feel confident in cutting their own seals it is recomended to purchase precut side seals as the engine will run fine with them, but for builders like myself that wants the best outcome possible with consistent compression across all faces cutting seals down is the better route and worth doing if you're up to the task. If you'd like to know more about cutting RX-8 side seals check out my how to guide which can be found here th-cam.com/video/5xkHL6g1Sic/w-d-xo.html
I will be building a large streetport 12A, streetport 6 port FC 13B and, hopefully, my large streetport 70s Cosmo engine with RX-8 rotors all very soon so that should give me a chance to go over each style of side seal and make some good videos about it
I just wanted to ask to clarify since it wasn't shown in the video, are the side seal springs in the slots when all the measuring and cutting is taking place. I have to assume that they are because the corner seal springs are installed and the side seal would fall down alot further in the slot without a spring. The reason to ask is that the atkins sheet nor the msp service manual show the spring in the slot on the diagram showing the side view of the seal and slot. There is slso no mention of the spring in the instruction wording. Hope my question/comment is clear as mud.
this video is about side seals, not apex seals, however, 99% of aftermarket apex seals are just cheap poorly made products not designed with longevity in mind. the OEM apex seal Mazda has developed over decades is designed to wear down with the housings whereas aftermarket “unbreakable” seals are made to withstand very high boost levels and to not break as easily under detonation from poor tuning (hence why many tuners recommend them as their job is to tune and get results, not to make the engine last). the manufacturers of these seals also don’t do much if any real R&D beyond drag racing hence why they only boast about their seals being used for drag racing and holding up fine for over 20 1/4 mile passes (or 5 miles) but not so much in street driven applications where they’ll admit that you’re lucky to see up to 60,000 miles with brand new housings. The reason for this is because the seals are very hard and wear against the housings instead of with them so even if you dump 3 Oz per gallon in your tank each fill up it still does little to counter the excessive wear and only increases daily running costs. If reliability/longevity is what you’re after then OEM or ceramic apex seals are your best bet as they’re proven seals designed to do just that. if you’re just looking to throw a shit ton of boost and a sketchy tune at it and make a lot of power for a little while then throw whatever seals the internet tells you in it.
@@NateRist nate I really appreciate it I had no idea those racers sound so convincing I really don’t have much money but I love my Rx8 and I want to Make a long lasting Rotary engine my Stock motor Is at 150k miles and still running great I take care of my Rx8 if I didn’t buy it, it woulda been in the dump by now
Would you make a how to video on cutting the side seals? Much appreciated!
okie dokie
Second this.
Ty alot , im rebuilding a renenis soon so itll help out alot.
Excellent vid, thanks for posting.
I believe the feller gauge goes to the taper side. Inside the circle. If you follow the manual instruction.
Great info thank you! Did you end up making the “how to cut” video? I have a spare rotor I chopped up for a cutting jig looking to see how everyone does it before I build again
I haven't, just haven't had much time to make and edit videos lately, but if I have extra time soon then I will
Hi, an info please. Mazda doesn't make the Side Seal of the correct length according to the letter on the rotor? Thanks.
The number or letter codes stamped into the rotors on each side seal slot corrensponds with a precut side seal that's within a tolerance "range" that falls within spec, but is not guaranteed to be consistant or within your preferred tolerance. For first time builders that may not feel confident in cutting their own seals it is recomended to purchase precut side seals as the engine will run fine with them, but for builders like myself that wants the best outcome possible with consistent compression across all faces cutting seals down is the better route and worth doing if you're up to the task.
If you'd like to know more about cutting RX-8 side seals check out my how to guide which can be found here th-cam.com/video/5xkHL6g1Sic/w-d-xo.html
Can you do an in-depth episode on side seal clearancing for the rx8 and for the 13b and for boosted and non-turbo applications
I will be building a large streetport 12A, streetport 6 port FC 13B and, hopefully, my large streetport 70s Cosmo engine with RX-8 rotors all very soon so that should give me a chance to go over each style of side seal and make some good videos about it
Good information my friend. Was having issues clearing my rx8 rotors. Would i do the same way if im running my motor as a n/a but clearance at 00.2?
For optimal compression and enough room for expansion.004 would be best. If you’re using rx8 rotors in an older 13B then .002 would be fine
@@NateRist thank you. So i use the 2 00.6 feeler gauges as you have shown?
@@jamesslessor3446 you use 2 0.15mm feeler gauges at either end of the side seal
I just wanted to ask to clarify since it wasn't shown in the video, are the side seal springs in the slots when all the measuring and cutting is taking place. I have to assume that they are because the corner seal springs are installed and the side seal would fall down alot further in the slot without a spring. The reason to ask is that the atkins sheet nor the msp service manual show the spring in the slot on the diagram showing the side view of the seal and slot. There is slso no mention of the spring in the instruction wording. Hope my question/comment is clear as mud.
yes you use springs in the corner and side seal slot when checking clearance and press down evenly when you do
@@NateRist Thanks for the reply, thats what i thought after beating my head against the wall one night without using the side springs.
Do I slide the side seal to one side and measure the clearance on the other end? Or do I have 0.1 mm/0.004" clearance on both corner seals?
You measure on one side only and want .004 for a standard renesis and .002 if clearance goes for an older peripheral exhaust engine
@@NateRist You are the best! Thank you very much. Love your videos.
So those racers are scammers? Those steel seals scrape rotor housings ?Can you make a video on this
this video is about side seals, not apex seals, however, 99% of aftermarket apex seals are just cheap poorly made products not designed with longevity in mind. the OEM apex seal Mazda has developed over decades is designed to wear down with the housings whereas aftermarket “unbreakable” seals are made to withstand very high boost levels and to not break as easily under detonation from poor tuning (hence why many tuners recommend them as their job is to tune and get results, not to make the engine last). the manufacturers of these seals also don’t do much if any real R&D beyond drag racing hence why they only boast about their seals being used for drag racing and holding up fine for over 20 1/4 mile passes (or 5 miles) but not so much in street driven applications where they’ll admit that you’re lucky to see up to 60,000 miles with brand new housings. The reason for this is because the seals are very hard and wear against the housings instead of with them so even if you dump 3 Oz per gallon in your tank each fill up it still does little to counter the excessive wear and only increases daily running costs.
If reliability/longevity is what you’re after then OEM or ceramic apex seals are your best bet as they’re proven seals designed to do just that. if you’re just looking to throw a shit ton of boost and a sketchy tune at it and make a lot of power for a little while then throw whatever seals the internet tells you in it.
@@NateRist nate I really appreciate it I had no idea those racers sound so convincing I really don’t have much money but I love my Rx8 and I want to Make a long lasting Rotary engine my Stock motor Is at 150k miles and still running great I take care of my Rx8 if I didn’t buy it, it woulda been in the dump by now
And yes I did come here to learn about side seals it this video really helped I really enjoy your channel keep making more Content:)