Pants Fitting: A Better Full Hip Balance Line for Fitting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.ย. 2024
- Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm share a couple ways draw a better full hip horizontal balance line on your fit muslin. The standard full hip horizontal balance line is essential when you're drafting a pants pattern. This line is positioned so that it's parallel to the floor & at a 90 degree angle from the vertical balance line. Using this line for fitting is not super helpful because it forms V shape when the Center Back seam is sewn up. This happens because the CB seam is not parallel to the vertical balance line... It's on an angle... and the more angled the cb seam is, the deeper the V shape will be. What is more helpful? A line that is parallel to either the waistline or the floor. A straight line across your full hip will show you how to adjust the vertical length of the back leg. If it dips down at CB, the vertical length above it needs to be shortened... If it pulls up at CB you need more length below the line. Join me to see how to draw a better full hip horizontal balance line.
I just made my trouser toile. Wondered why my hip line does that V shape. From now on I will use your method of marking the balance line, it now makes perfect sense to me. Thank you Jennifer for sharing all your great videos. Watching from Devon in England.
I'm so happy this helps you... thank you for following along with me!!
I was going to make the same comment, always wondered and thought it was wrong!
Thanks Jennifer. This is the exact information I need. Great video. Your videos are so helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for following along with me
Learned this a very long time ago, probably from you. I love balance lines.
:)))) they are really helpful!
This was very interesting. Thank you, Jen. I was kind of surprised years ago when I was learning pattern drafting that pant legs were drafted from the center front and center back of the leg instead of from the center front and center back of the body.
Thank you for sharing how you learned how to draft pants. When I draft my pants patterns, I start with the hip block (which is basically the top of a skirt draft)... So, I'm starting with the hip measurement and that horizontal balance line at the full hip. The waist measurement starts at CF/CB and the waistline length to the side seam includes the waist measurement, ease and dart intake. I love that there are a variety of ways to get the job done!! Also, thanks for following along with me
So helpful! Thank you!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Great info!!
Thanks so much!! and thank you for following along with me
Thank you for this video. It is very timely for me. I am working on a jeans pattern and was aware that you recommended a balance line parallel to the waist vs perpendicular ro the grainline, but jeans have a back yoke and I was at a lose on how to proceed. Perpendicular to the crotch line makes perfect sense and seems obvious once some one else has pointed it out!!
Yay, I'm so happy this helps you...Thanks for bring up jeans and the back yoke issue, Perpendicular to the CB edge is the perfect solution for the horizontal balance line at the hip! ...also, thanks for watching
Thank you for this explanation. I will get out my latest trouser toile and see which way my balance lines are drawn. I suspect they aren't perpendicular to cb/cf
My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for this wisdom! Which approach to balance line do you recommend for identifying where to add or reduce for sitting ease? Especially for low full bum adjustment with full inner thighs. There are many possible directions for adding ease so the best choice of balance line will help!
:) Here's a tutorial to help you with sitting room! ...and I totally agree, balance lines will help you see where you need more length :) th-cam.com/video/M9hrYtz6Gow/w-d-xo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jennifer! Thanks for all you do to help us learn. What pattern did you use to make the top you are wearing in this video please?
My Pleasure, I'm wearing a Tee made from my "The Tee" pattern. Here's link to the Fab Fit Friday when I shared how to make this new neckline (vs. the boat neckline the pattern was drafted with. I share my personal pattern pieces that I've used over and over to make many different versions of this knit top. It's better to make sure the top fits you before changing the neckline so you don't transfer fitting issues to your new design. Thanks for following along with me th-cam.com/users/liveNJjBoINwZTo?feature=share
@@JSternDesigns
AWESOME!!!!
THANKS Jennifer!!
ps. there is a link to the pattern in the video description!
So. I am an absolute novice. So my question might be redundant and lacking in foundation.
But if you sew up the pattern as you have it cut, won't ìt still fall naturally into the balance you have just revealed? Therefore what would be the useful application of it?
When you cut out the pants pattern with balance lines drawn on it... they might "droop" or "pick up" based on how the muslin fits you in the vertical direction. Even if you leave the horizontal balance line perpendicular to the center balance line, it will still show this. It's just easier to look at a line that should be parallel to the floor or waistline to see what's going on. I hope that helps! Thanks for watching