*VERY IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING THIS JOB* 1) *Saving Money on Parts* If you pull the parts off like we show in the video, you can REUSE the ABS TONE RINGS and reuse BOTH OUTER RETAINERS. We suggest you PURCHASE NEW INNER RETAINERS to mate up with the new seal because the retainers sustain some damage during removal. A new retainer will have a perfectly machined inner surface to mate up with the axle shaft. Upon removal, some slight gouging occurs to the retainer and now it's no longer a perfectly smooth machined surface. If you put a used retainer back on the axle in the inner position to mate up with the seal, there's a chance gear oil could travel between the axle surface and the inner diameter of the inner retainer due to the grooves left in the retainer from the removal process. It's obvious the retainer, ABS tone ring and inner race of the bearing are made from a softer metal than axle because the axle sustains no damage from the installation and removal of the parts. 2) Some people have reported that even after doing everything right, they still had gear oil getting past the seal. One culprit ended up being the metal to metal connection of the axle seal with the axle housing. For some people, a previous mechanic or DIYer might have not been very careful and scored the axle housing with a seal puller or other tool. Others might have had no detectable imperfection in the axle housing but they still had gear oil sneak past that metal to metal connection of the axle seal and axle housing. A fix that will work for this situation is cleaning up the surface of the axle housing with acetone or denatured alcohol and doing the same with the outer surface of a new axle seal. Smear some Toyota Red FIPG which is meant to work with gear oil applications or a similar gasket sealer meant to work with gear oil onto the axle housing sealing surface and also some on the seal itself and then drive it in. The FIPG will fill any tiny imperfections in the metal and hopefully stop gear oil from being able to get past this connection. 3) The original axle tool we used made made by Durasolid is no longer the best tool for the job in our opinion. The tool we now recommend is made by this guy Duane that sells them on Ebay. It is a very well-designed tool that saves you time and money. Here's a link to Duane's Ebay store: www.ebay.com/usr/donald-the-bonald?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Here's a link to a video showing us using the new tool: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html Also, here's a direct link to Axle Puller/Installer for sale on Duane's Ebay store we used in that video: www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02/203187764458?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 4) There are many Ebay stores selling a Chinese Copy of Duane's tool. Please do not reward these dishonest people by buying the tool from them. Duane makes his tools at his home in Omaha Nebraska. He has changed the color of his tool to BLUE to differentiate it from all the Chinese Copies being sold on Ebay. Please support Duane and Buy American! Update 12/07/21 - the Chinese copiers are now undercutting Duane's prices so drastically that he would take a loss if he sold the tool for the price they are offering it for. The only way Duane can give you a more competitive price is if you email him directly and take the Ebay middle man out of it. Duane's email address is: *dtb2253x@**yahoo.com* 5) When using the flipped inner retainer technique, it appeared 5mm of polished axle showing was about perfect to get the seal lip riding dead center on the shoulder of the retainer. After pulling some axles from rigs we did this job on a couple years ago, it looks like 3-4mm of polished axle showing would be a better initial measurement to use. With that said, you still need to verify you have a good mating of the seal and inner retainer by performing a grease of sharpie test. After that initial grease or sharpie test, you'll now if you got it perfect or you'll need to do some adjustment. Does the seal absolutely need to ride dead center on the retainer? The answer is no. Somewhere close is fine. The reason why you want it close to center is to allow for axle play as the bearing ages. If you're close to the one of the edges, the axle play could allow the seal to not ride on the retainer and then you'll develop a leak. 6) In regards to the grease test, make sure the bearing is fully seated into the bearing case before performing it. If the bearing isn't fully seated into the bearing case, you won't get an accurate grease test. We show how you can make sure the bearing is fully seated by lightly popping the splined end of the axle shaft into a piece of wood on the ground. You can watch this technique starting at play time 30:31. 7) Starting at play time 44:20 we show you how to install the new bearing into the bearing case. As you could see from the video, when the bearing is squared up perfectly, it literally falls into the case. It's not a press fit at all. My new favorite tool for installing the bearing is using a 3" ABS Clean-Out and Cap. The 3" Clean-Out outer diameter is 3 1/2" wide and fits perfectly the outer diameter of the bearing. Applying the force to the outside of the bearing is the correct method to use when you cannot support the opposing side of the bearing like in this application. The plastic ABS Fitting and Cap also gives me good feedback when installing the bearing. Since I know the bearing should go in very easy when it's squared up well with the bearing case, if I see the cap start to bend from the force or I feel any resistance in the press handle, I back off, reset and try again. You don't want to force the bearing into the case and get it stuck. It should go in very smoothly and with almost no force. Check out the video description for a link to what an ABS Clean-Out and Cap looks like. 8) Because the bearing fits fairly loosely into the bearing case, I now slide the backing plate, Durasolid special service tool and press sleeve onto the axle shaft with the axle shaft parallel to the ground. Only a tiny bit of force is necessary to dislodge the bearing from the case so if I slide everything on in this fashion first and then bring the assembly vertical to fit it onto the press, I have much less of a chance of dislodging the bearing. This technique requires an assistant but having somebody assist with this repair is ideal anyway. Having an extra set of hands to get the axle assembly onto and off the press is very handy saving you time and physical effort.
Timmy The Toolman will this work on the 2000 landcruiser/lx470 also? The rear looks very similar except the landcruiser/LX 470 has rear rotors and drums as e-brake. Thanks!
Duc The axles can be similar but we have no experience with the Land Cruiser or Lexus LX470 so we don’t know if the procedure would be the same and if the tools we use will work. Sorry for the very late reply. We missed your comment.
My rear axle seal blew a few days ago and I am gearing up to do this job. I got the harbor freight press today and just ordered Duane's tool as reccomended. I gotta give you some serious thanks for filming this. This is truly the best resource I could hope for.
@@TimmyTheToolman I got the axle seals replaced thanks to the info you put out. As soon as I started the car after finishing the job, it started leaking coolant everywhere from behind the engine somewhere. Fun stuff.
Not sure if it was mentioned, but another very common problem with a very simple solution, is the differential vent that easily gets plugged and when the fluid gets hot, it builds pressure and blows out the seals. The solution is to clean or check periodically or attach a line up to the sides of the bed to keep it away from water/gunk intrusion
I don't think we mentioned it in the video but we do mention the possibility of a clogged breather in the video description as the culprit of why the seal(s) failed. We also do have a rear differential extended breather mod video: th-cam.com/video/tCGMa4vng_g/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment.
I changed my breather vent on my Tacoma and when I unscrewed it I heard a poof noise so I’m glad I put in a new one. Also I’m wondering if in a pinch could the oil be replaced through the vent hole 🕳️??? Just a thought 💭.
I have a 2005 Sequoia. Shops in the Las Vegas area have quoted me $1400 PER SIDE to replace the rear axle bearings. Would love to purchase all the tools and do the work myself, but I don't have anyone here that could walk me through it if I get stuck. Thanks for your video. It's the most thorough and detailed I have found.
Mike, you don't need anyone to walk you through anything. All the information you need is in our videos. We have a Part 2 to this video that showcases a new tool that works much better than the original tool. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html The amount these shops are quoting is ridiculous That's almost $3000. You can get the Harbor Freight Press and the special axle tool that Duane makes for around $400 max. The bearing and other parts will run you another $250 for so. $650 compared to $3000 is a huge difference. Plus, you gain the tools that you can use again. That press comes in very handy. The axle tool you may use again someday or you can sell it on Ebay at a discount and get a lot of you money back.
1:02:34 Seans intense look over your shoulder is how we are all studying this video. Thanks for another great tutorial. You save me time and money and I greatly appreciate it.
Outstanding job coving this repair! Thank you! You also went into great detail to answer questions that many of us would be asking as you went along. I especially thank you for going into the detail of pressing all the components off the axle with the hydraulic press. I am going this route because the 4Runner is my only vehicle so, once it is apart, I cannot take my axles to a machine shop to do the press work and I certainly can't have a machine shop try again and again as I run the grease test. Couple questions, if you get a chance to see this thread... 1. What is the Press and Pull Sleeve Kit really needed for? Can't I use a Seal Drive kit to perform those functions? I didn't buy that kit. 2. Is the OTC Bearing Splitter Kit really needed? I bought a 3-4" Bearing Splitter by itself and I'll buy long bolts, and it saved me $60. I hope it works for me :) 3. I had the chance to buy a Harbor Freight 12 ton press for $130 or a 20 ton press for $190. I wanted the cheaper option but, once I looked at them both, I considered that maybe the 12 ton press is too small for the length of the axle. I bought the 20 ton press. Do you know if that is the case for 12 ton presses or the one from HF? Is that why you used a higher rated press, for the length of the axle? 4. Lastly, I don't understand exactly why you need or use the ABS Clean-Out and Cap. You have said that the bearing isn't under force when it seats properly. Shouldn't I be able to tap it into place with very little force? Maybe I missed something, but I'll watch again.
I just finished this job. To answer my own questions if it can help others... 1. The Press and Pull Sleeve Kit is nice for making space when pressing the bearing into the hub. However, it was not needed for my setup. I saved the money and got by without it. I used the old bearing to press the new bearing into place, with an improvised steel plate. I used the DuraSolid cylinder to press directly on the retainers to press them onto the axle (once with the bearing, once with the ABS ring). For removing the bearing, I bought a short length of 2" dia. PVC pipe and pounded on it. 2. No, the whole OTC Bearing Splitter kit is not needed. I'm sure it is nice to have those hardened stand-offs, but you can get by with the $25 splitter on Amazon and then buy some 5-6" 3/8" bolts with nuts/washers to mate up to the DuraSolid plate. 3. I think the 12 ton press from Harbor Freight would have been too short for the length of the axle on this vehicle. Also, the pressing power of the 20 ton made things go smoothly. I don't know if the 12 ton press could have done it as easily. 4. I don't know about the ABS Clean-Out and Cap. The bearing was a very tight fit into my hubs. There was pressure the whole way as I pressed each one into the hub. I improvised some of the tools and I saved myself almost $200. But, if you don't feel like making some of your tools, it would be reassuring to buy the right tools for the job.
Good to hear you were able to fix your rig using our video. It is getting pretty crazy out there with this virus scare. We are all sailing in uncharted waters right now. Stay safe and healthy.
phattyduck Hey Charlie, Since this repair is so common, I think your rig is going be seen by a whole lot of folks. Thanks again for allowing to use your 3rd Gen as the test subject for this repair. I've now actually done this job on two other ABS 3rd Gens and I have another one lined up whenever I get back from this fire in Ventura and Santa Barbara County. I just ask them for a donation to our party fund. We'll probably have another party in the spring. Maybe you'll drive down from SoCal.
Success! Changed my 04 tundra driver rear bearing, seal, switched the retainer for better sealing area. Bought the original tool off ebay. Took me 2 hrs total. Parts slid off easily, might be due to pre- soak. Fantastic result. Saved me $1900 at the dealer. My cost approx $650 in parts, will sell the tool later on (consider it rent)
I haven't watched this yet, but is this the one most similar to my 04 Tundra Double Cab? (shares some parts with the Sequoia) I think I saw future Timmy comment that this generation 4 Runner is the most similar as opposed to the Gen1 Sequoia.
Thank you Timmy! I discovered your channel a while ago when i had a 2wd 2002 4 runner and was stationed in Fairfield Ca. I did a timing belt and a tundra brake upgrade thanks to your help. I then sold it to a father/son in san jose because i wanted to get a 4wd. I referred them to your videos as my step-by-step guide for the repairs and upgrades. I picked up a 100series for my 4wd and later before i left Ca i bought a 98 T100 3.4 5speed manual 4x4 for a daily driver (with almost 300k on it now). I felt comfortable buying it because i knew alot of your videos would be relevant to my maintenance ownership experience. I just discovered a leaking seal and i didn't want to buy a shop press/specialized tool. But ive since moved from California to Alabama and all of the independent mechanics local to me refused the job or dont work on imports. Im very grateful you posted this. I have all the specialty tools ordered (from your part 2 of this video) and i just picked up my 20ton press today. A quick mention to those of you trying to save a few bucks on oem parts . Partssoq.com can save you some big money- just beware that it usually comes from overseas and takes some time to get to you. Shipping rates add up there but i still usually save a significant amount. Thank you again for all your help. Ill be using your clutch video soon. Im both not exited and also looking forward to it at the same time.
Thanks for sharing all that Dan. I appreciate it. You're not alone when it comes to buying a vehicle because of the of the extensive information available for working on them. Others have told me that part of their decision to buy a 3rd Gen was because of our channel. That's always nice to hear. Good luck with the rear axle.seal and bearing job. Please be sure to read the comment I pinned (first comment you see) for updates on the repair. For the clutch job and set of hands certainly helps for the removal and reinstallation of the transfer case and transmission. Definitely get a buddy or two to help out. It will make it much easier for you. Finally, we do have some videos related to your 100 series like our 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Video. Sean has used Partsouq before. He has said the same thing. I get a deal at my local dealership and just buy from them for the convenience. Happy Wrenching Dan.
Another great and informative video, thanks Timmy! I'm experiencing the dreaded rear wheel wobble on my 1st gen Tacoma and if it turns out to be a bent axle/flange I will certainly be referencing this video as I undertake the repair.
This video is the shit. I have a T100 (w ABS) work truck with leaking rear seals and was going to pull my axles and take them to a local dealership, but now I think I am going to invest in the tools, experience, and knowledge thanks to your extremely detailed procedure. It will be one of the most involved jobs I have done to date, but I'm confident that taking it slow one step at a time following these precise instructions it will be fine. Thanks so much for posting!!!
Hey Alan, be sure to watch Part 2 because we introduce a better tool and share additional tips and tricks we've learned after doing this job over a dozen times. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html Good luck with job. Hope it goes smooth for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman So I have spent the past few days working on this. Duane's tool and your explicit instructions made the job a lot easier than I had anticipated with few hiccups, but it was time consuming as expected. I also had other things going on, plus the current situation everywhere and an earthquake for good measure. Had a noisy bearing in the differential so I replaced that too. There were some minor differences between the press I got and the one you use so we had to figure out height adjustments a couple of times but honestly the biggest pain in the ass of the whole thing was getting the brake lines back in lol. I also did wheel cylinders while I had it all apart, they are cheap and the truck has over 200k on it. Bled brakes but they still are not right. Pedal goes to the floor so I have to pump them then I guess it's the ABS activating they make a buzzing noise and get grabby/pulsate. It's hard to describe. Gonna try to adjust them and maybe try bleeding again but beyond that I don't know what to do or check, any advice?. They worked better covered in gear oil lol. It was the dirtiest repair I have ever done but am very pleased overall. It would have cost just as much or more to have someone else do the press work. Thanks again so much for the great tutorials.
@@alancapriotti4605 Hey Alan, glad you got the job done. In regards to your brakes, did you plug the lines when you disconnected them? The reason why I ask is because I'm thinking you could have made the bleeding more difficult by allowing a large amount of fluid to drain out of the system. Along the same line of questioning, did the master cylinder get emptied because the lines were able to drain for a long time? If the master cylinder emptied out completely, you will then have to bench bleed the master cylinder. If it didn't drain down all the way, then your problem is you still have air in the lines and your rear brakes probably need more adjusting too. Bleed the brakes again starting at the passenger side rear, then driver side rear, passenger side front and the driver side front. Bleed the lines excessively and keep rechecking the fluid level in the master cylinder so it doesn't run dry. For the adjusting, pull the parking brake over and over and over until you only get 7-9 clicks out of the e-brake handle. Doing the bleeding and brake adjusting should get your brakes feeling like normal again. Let me know how it goes for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I can't tell you how much I appreciate the personal replies. Do you take donations for doing this? I would be happy to buy you a beer or 6. Regarding my brakes: I did not cap the lines and lost some fluid, but did not know about bench bleeding the master cylinder. I had planned on pumping new, clean fluid through the system during this repair anyway as it was long overdue. I did not run the master cylinder empty though, I did keep an eye on that throughout the process. I adjusted the brakes and took it for another very local test drive. Pedal was much better but the ABS still did that weird buzzing pulsing thing, but not as bad. At this point I was out of daylight and figured I would bleed again this morning. I was sitting around and thought I would take a look at the FSM just to try and learn more about the ABS system on general principle. It said to check the ends of the sensor magnets for debris, which I had noticed and cleaned off a few times during the whole seal/bearing process. However, by the time I was reassembling everything I was anxious to get it back on the road (and it's a work truck I need) I didn't look very closely, doh. Since it was a lot faster and easier than going through another bleed, I pulled those and found some mank on them for sure. Wiped them both off real good and took a test run with a full trailer to the local dump. All good. Went out and did a decent cleanup (wet leaves and a lot of pine needles in the trailer) and drove home. Did not do that even once. I will be paying close attention over the next few days, but it appears to have been resolved. Thanks again!!!
@@alancapriotti4605 Hey Alan, glad you got it figured out. We do take donations. There's a tip jar link on bottom right corner of our channel photo. We decided to add the tip jar since people asked if they could donate like you have. But, you appreciating the videos and sharing your success story with us is payment enough. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy, Thanks for the videos on how to replace the rear bearing. I had to do this job because the back-plate on my brakes was so rusty it would not pass inspection in the condition it was in. I also purchased the Axle puller/installer from Duane that you recommended and it worked great. Thanks for the tool demo's it made the whole process of doing this job go very smoothly. Chris
You're very welcome Chris. Glad our video helped you get the job done and thanks for buying from Duane and not from one of the people selling a rip-off copy of his design. We appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Great vids! I just bought my daughter a 2000 4runner with 190K miles. Bought all the tools and OEM parts and didn't it myself. After all expenses, I probably saved $500. Thanks Tim
Thanks Guy. It feels pretty good to do this all on your own, doesn't it? Not to mention you gained some tools you can use for other repairs while still saving yourself a sizable chunk of money. You probably now know this repair better than most paid mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Mike. We appreciate the nice compliment. Be sure to watch Part 2 where we showcase a much better tool for the job. Also Mike, make sure you read the video descriptions and pinned comments. There are important updates shared.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy, two years later and now both my rear axle seals seem to have gone out, both rear hubs are wet with gear oil.. 😬 Got a big job ahead of me.. Thankfully your videos will help me step by step. Also thank you for referencing that ST to use from Dan. Will let you know how it goes..
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes Sir, I saw them already. I'm also planning to add the diff. breather mod. later on to prevent this from happening again. Thank you.
I love how at the end of the video you can just tell everyone's spent. I know that feeling well on any car repair. Even with ridiculous amounts of tools they never go 100% smooth.
Hey David, you're the first to comment on this. Yeah, you're absolutely right. Some of these repairs and mods we've done have been marathons and crawling around on your back all day can definitely wear you out not to mention the mental fatigue that goes on with one of these jobs. When I watch the final edited version of the video, I can see how destroyed I look when I'm doing the closing statement. Thanks for watching and Happy Wrenching!
I'm new to the 3G 4Runner scene and I'm rehabbing a pretty poorly treated '97 SR5 here in Minnesota. EVERY BOLT is rusted to hell and nothing is ever as clean and easy as it is in many of the repair how-to's on youtube because clearly most are done in Cali and the southwest. Something as simple as a brake caliper replacement becomes an all-day job unless you just anticipate removing everything up to the ABS line tee junction.
David Tesch I feel for ya. Doing automotive work on a vehicle with lots of rust would certainly take some of the fun out of it for me. Knowing I'm going to fight every fastener and possibly break off bolts and strip nuts would add a whole new level of frustration. Too bad there isn't some other solution for the roadways instead of salt to deal with icy roads. It sucks that vehicles that still have a ton of life left with the main drivetrain components end up being scrapped because the frame rusts out first.
Just completed the rear axle seal/bearing job. Had the shop flip the retainer and place it with 5mm of polished axle as you recommended. Did the rest of the job at home. Performed the sharpie test and the seal hit the retainer dead center! Thanks for saving me a bunch of money and time with your awesome videos! How about a rear main seal video??
Hey Brad, You're welcome and we're happy to hear our video helped you get the job done saving yourself a bunch of money in the process. We do have a 3 part video series of doing an automatic transmission replacement on Sean's rig. That is 97% of the job of replacing the rear main seal. The only thing you need to do further is remove the flex plate and replace the rear main seal. For this job, you wouldn't have to separate the transfer case from the transmission and you could maybe just keep it on your transmission jack and pull it back far enough from the engine so you could access the flex plate and rear main seal.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I will check out the trans videos. My truck is a locked '99 Limited and is well maintained It has lots of off road mods and is my family adventure DD. It has been very reliable, but it has 331K! Oil consumption is minimal even with rear seal issue. The rear seal is about the only thing it needs and the leak is small, but leaks bother me. Would you mess with the rear seal if it was yours? Thanks again!
@@libertyman3717 If the leak is small, I wouldn't worry about it then. That's a lot of labor. Just add oil when necessary and drive it like you stole it.
I did this job last weekend on my '98 4Runner, and it went relatively problem free thanks to your video, Tim! A couple of things I can add to the video: Check that the new seal is square after driving it in. I just used the depth guage on the bottom of the calipers to measure from the ground face of the axle housing to the seal ring in a few spots. Both seals required squaring by 1/8" or so up after initially tapping them in. Since the studs have to be pounded out anyway to pull the ABS tone ring off I went straight to using bolts to affix the press plate to push the axle through the outer retaining ring and bearing. The studs went back in after pressing everything back on. I removed the brakes since they were saturated in diff oil. However, even if you do keep them on it is easy to remove the parking brake bellcrank to get it out of the way of pressing. Loosen the two bolts, slide the cable off of the bellcrank hook, and it pulls straight off the backing plate. Anyway, thanks again for the great vid, and keep 'em coming!
With the driving in of the axle seals, I went by sound first and then visualized that the seal was sitting square. The sound of the hammer driving in the seal makes a distinct change of tone when it's bottomed out. Sort of tink, tink, tink then clunk. When the tone changes, you know you've bottomed out. Then I just look to see it's even with the slight bevel of the axle housing. I'm not sure I understand you did anything different than we did with the studs after removing the inner retainer and ABS tone ring. We pulled the serrated studs back in place to attach the press plate but unfortunately had the mishap of the threads giving way. We were forced to use the longer bolts we bought at Home Depot to finish the press work. Since I had that one plate machined, the OEM studs work perfectly to press the axle through the bearing and outer retainer. I've now done this axle seal job 6 times and I guess I just choose to keep the bell crank on while doing the press work because I have all the press sleeves to make it work. I finish the axle seal job by tearing down the brakes, cleaning everything up really well and putting new shoes on. Glad the video helped you out. Dealerships and private shops charge an arm and a leg for this repair and then often times screw it up. The fact that you've successfully done this job on your own makes you an expert in this repair and more knowledgeable about it than most professional mechanics. Congratulations on a job well done! Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman I guess I should elaborate on my stud comment. We didn't do anything different; we just followed your advice to use bolts. I was just under the misconception that using bolts would require more work (i.e. pounding the studs out multiple times) than having the plate machined . I was pleasantly surprised that we were able to do all of the press work using bolts, so the studs didn't have to go back in until it was time to grease test. Anyway, thanks again for the great vids. You've done Yota drivers a huge service!
Got it. Since I got that plate machined, I just pull the serrated bolts back in after pulling off the ABS tone ring and inner retainer to get ready to press the axle shaft out. The machining of the plate saves me some time because I don't have to remove the OEM studs and replace them with the longer bolts. It's just one less step. I'm going to be doing this job for another local guy in a few days. I think I'm going to follow your lead and just remove the bell crank and see if this makes doing the press work much easier. Thanks for sharing this info and your success with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Awesome video! Precise and to the point. Glue 2 small magnets to the top of your press.Then you can lay your jack handle on top and it won't roll off. Its right there when you need it.
Timmy The Toolman, I'm from Concord, CA, but live in Utah now. I really enjoy working on my 05' Tacoma. I just finished installing 2010-14 4Runner front calipers, and rotors. They just barely fit in my 07' FJ TRD, 17" wheels. 😊
What part of Utah? I've been to Utah many times to mountain bike. The area around Zion is awesome near the town of Hurricane. I've ridden at the Thunder Mountain area. Moab is great and so is Park City. The thing I don't particularly care about in Utah is the liquor laws. They make it difficult to find good strong beers.
Man I can not explain to how helpful this Video is. Thank you for taking the time and adding all the detail I look forward to replacing mine here soon and with this video will help me get it done and my wife can’t complain lol
You're very welcome. Make sure to watch part 2 because we share a better tool to use for the job and give updated information that will help you. Please, please, please read the video descriptions and the comments we pinned (1st comment you see because there's very helpful information in both areas). th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you and I will watch the next video when I get off I’m actually a technician have been for 14 years and love special tools especially when it’s mine lol again thank you
@@159joejoe You're welcome. If you're going to buy the special tool showcased in Part 2, please be sure to use the link we provide in the video description. Our buddy Duane designed the tool at his home in Omaha, Nebraska and then some crooks sent his design to China and now there's dozens of Ebay sellers selling a ripoff copy of his design. These a-holes even stole the pictures I provided Duane for his Ebay listing. To put it mildly, I hate thieves!
Thanks so much for this video! Just completed the repair myself and all went fairly smoothe asides from me forgetting to take off the snap ring before trying to push the axle out. 4 new unstripped bolts later and I was back in business. Wanted to give people a few ideas that I had when I did this repair. Instead of pressing in the bearing I simply tapped it in gently with the race and bearing driver set that is used to seat the seal (rented from O'Reilly). Additionally I did not want to buy a 100 dollar press sleeve kit so I went to Home Depot and bought a pvc coupler for 1.25 (could have been 1.5 inch, just bring the axle puller tube and match the end size) and it worked great and cost me about a buck fifty.
One more thing if you don't mind me asking. I bought the same puller you have linked in your video but it did not fit over my axle. I measured the inside diameter of the axle puller and it measured 1.58 inches and the puller is advertised at 1.5 inches. I bought all new bearing retainers and they were the same size as my old ones and I was able to get them pressed on the axle okay which leads me to believe that my axle should be the correct size and not some swap (I bought my rig used a few months back) so I am wondering if you had any thoughts as to why the puller wouldn't quite make it down to bolt directly to the hub. I ended up having to just buy longer bolts to reach down to the hub for the press work. Thanks again for all your awesome videos
I have to ask if you watched the entire video? At around play time 30:30, I discuss that you have to pop the axle shaft down against a block of wood to knock the bearing back fully into it's case so you can get the tool bolted up to the axle. Also in the video, I show how I altered the tool so the OEM bolt lengths will work better with the tool plate. I basically milled out 5mm of material around the bolt holes and I also used a round file on one side of the threads so it would fit better. If you didn't pop the axle shaft into the ground and/or didn't altered the plate like I did, you pretty much would have had to use longer bolts to make it work. The Durasolid tool works decent, but it could have been made better.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have watched the video more times than I should probably admit. I'm a bit of a planner and made sure I could follow your video step by step as to avoid any possibility of me making my vehicle worse. I was running into problems when getting the puller over the part of the axle that begins to get larger before you even hit the polished section. Even with the axle stated fully after reseating it with the tap on the wood there was no way to even get the tube slid over the axle far enough to screw it into the blue plate bolted on. I hope that all makes sense, I'm doing my best to use the correct words for different parts to paint the picture of what was going on. Edit: I had to go do a sanity check before I made a fool of myself here and measured the ID of the axle puller and the ID of the old retainers and in fact the ID of the axle puller was 1.56 inches and the ID of the old retainers were 1.575 which would make sense as to why I couldn't get it all the way over the axle down to the hub
@TheBar2z Ok, I understand now. Please do me a favor and contact Durasolid and tell them what you're experiencing with their tool. They must have changed something with their manufacturing or possibly changed suppliers of their pipe stock. It's important they know this because this is a flaw that needs to be addressed. Please let me know what they say when you contact them. They really should send you a replacement with the correct internal diameter.
Glad you appreciate the detail we provide in this video. Be sure to watch Part 2 as well because we showcase a much better tool to use for the job. Also, be sure to read the video descriptions and pinned comments because there's important information in both areas.
Tim, thanks for the reply! Update: I was able to replace the bearings with Nachi bearings, oem tone rings, and 1st design inner seals with the double lip. We used the MCSpecial tool. Man it was easy. We did mar the plastic housing on the ABS sensors trying to pry them out with channel lock pliers and PB Blaster. They still work. Once the sensors are out, the seal was easy to remove. Just remove the axle first, remove the sensor, then place a screwdriver in the sensor hole, and pry out the seal. Not much effort is needed to pry it out. This way no damage to the seal surface. Plus driving in the seal is easier since the sensor has a magnet and will pull the new seal magnetically and make it a bear to tap in. The ebay aftermarket inner seals had the same black rubber like coating on the seal-all the way around (similar to a GM rear main seal). We taped them in with the 72mm MADDOX seal driver. Any edges still present we just tapped it the 68mm. Not much tapping need. Since we used 1st gen design seals we replaced the inner spacer with the bevel pointing inward, 5mm(driver) and 5.5mm(passenger) of shiny axle metal showing. The grease test showed grease was pushed all the way to the tone ring, so we were happy. 650mi at 70mph later, no leaks so far. I always buy OEM but I didn't want the new OEM re-design seal, and I couldn't find NOS seals, so I went with aftermarket seals. Thanks again Tim!!!!!
Glad the repair worked out. You're the first person I've heard pry the seal out via the ABS sensor hole. Interesting. If the grease test showed the grease pushed all the way back to the tone ring, that's not centered on the retainer. You would want the grease pushed back to the center of the polished surface of the retainer. But with the measurements you gave, I would assume you were centered on the retainer. Maybe you misspoke. Do you have a link to the aftermarket seals you went with?
Thanks for the great video. Did my 2000 tundra, getting the longer bolts ahead of time really helped. Now I have the tools to do the other side if it goes out. Keep up the great work. Thanks
Tim, I watched the video as I mostly DYI from my youth. 73 2004 Toyota went to shop as I did not have the time and it was winter. Still leaked the owner corrected the repair. Upon replacing the rear brakes I noticed a film of diff fluid. So I checked the breather first. Clogged it was. R&R the leak in axel stopped. Now last fall it started again. Rusted break line with no spare prevented repair. Last week, decided to take it down and replace every part connected to axel as you did on Charlie's 4 runner. Holy wahhh the sensor was froze in, rotated but would come out. Use a block of wood and truck jack to remove the axel. Forget the 5 mm as the last person working on that side left off the inner retainer above the ABS. the restraint for sealing the diff fluid was the outer seal. Go figure..... I was going to have my only source for repair install the bearing ABS GEAR , RETAINER, AND INNER AND OUTER SEALS. MAYBE NOT. FYI I ALWAS CLEAN UP THE HUB AND BRAKE DRUM INNER RING FOR EASY ON AND OFF. COAT LIGHTLY WITH ANTI SEIZE does not get on brakes. All my parts are Toyota oem. Really appreciated the honesty of your video. BTW 299K and 297 on original plugs......still have starter and generator. Michelin tires LTX A2 112K 9/32 tread.
Thanks Timmy! My 2002 4runner doesn't need this job "yet". But that doesn't stop me from obsessively planning on doing it. I'm in the Rust Belt and can count on pretty much every bolt being seized with rust. My backing plates are turning to dust, so this is a job I will do when I replace them.
Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! If you ever do have to do this job, which there's a very good chance you will if you keep the rig long enough, be sure to watch Part 2 as well and also read the comment we pinned in each video (1st comment you see). The pinned comments have additional information and updates not included in the videos. Also look at the video description for the parts list and suggested tools. Happy Wrenching! th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this well-made and well edited video. This video allowed my father and I to fix my leaking axel all the way on the other side of the world. 🌎 Victoria Australia🇦🇺 . Much appreciated, and god bless🙌
a tip I learned for installing bearing races is to take the old race after you pound it out with a drift and cut a slit out of one side then use that to press in the new race. because it's cut on one side you just squeeze it and it comes right out after you have the new race seated in. I know you weren't doing anything with a race here but the way you used the old bearing to press in the new one reminded me of this trick.
Ricardo Botello You're very welcome Ricardo. We're glad our video helped you out. Thank you for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching my Texan Brother!
Xavier Garcia You're welcome Xavier. A lot of shops and people make mistakes with this repair so we wanted to make the video as comprehensive as possible to give them the best chance to be successful. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
If I keep on buying tools, there won't be any room to pull a vehicle in. I bought a second tool box and it's already full. But, most of the space is taken up by bicycles.
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer and thanks for the nice compliment. Be sure to watch Part 2 where we showcase a much better tool for the job made by a guy in the U.S. Also, please read the video descriptions and pinned comments because we offer very helpful information in both spots. Happy Wrenching!
You're welcome Lance. Glad our video could help you out and thanks for taking the time to comment. And yes, we're going to keep on cranking out the videos. Happy Wrenching!
Another nice video Tim! I can confirm that the lisles tool "does" work to get the seal out. It does NOT reach though by default in any setting on the tool. What you need to do is to grab some pliers and pry the axle seal towards you a bit. That will make it so the lisles tool can reach the seal now since it's so deep in there. From there, you just pop her out. (Hint, put a rag on the other side so you don't damage the housing (which isn't a big deal on this spot).
Hi, Timmy The Toolman. I'm learning more and more every time I watch one of your videos!!! The AC video was really helpful to us as well. THANK YOU! Your party looked like a real good time too.
Hey Adam, great to hear you're learning a lot from our videos. You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. The parties are always a good time. Happy Wrenching!
I went to 4mm of polished axle then did a grease test. The axle wouldn't go all the way in because the abs ring was hitting the seal. I pressed the race another 2mm to a total of 6mm of polished axle then it worked. I think the abs ring should be pressed on an additional 4-6mm apart from the race just to center it up with the sensor hole and to make sure it doesn't rub against the seal . Great video!
There is a very good chance the bearing wasn't all the way seated in the bearing case when you performed the grease.test. I mentioned in my pinned comment that a bearing that's not fully seated will throw off the grease test. There's no way at 4mm of polished axle showing you should have been able to hit the ABS tone ring against the seal. When you did the grease test, did you just slide the axle in until it was flush with the housing or did you actually bolt it up tight? If the bearing wasn't fully seated in the bearing case, tightening the nuts would have drawn the bearing to it's fully seated position in the case. I honestly think at 6mm polished axle showing you might be closer to the bevel than you'd like. I recently pulled an axle on a guys rig that I did the axle seal job on around 6 months ago and the witness mark the seal made on the inner retainer was closer to the bevel than I though it should have been. That's why I now suggest people first do a grease test at 3-4mm of polished axle showing, and then make adjustments from there. I also know there's slight differences in the axles and the amount of polished axle showing could end up being different. I hate to say this, but I think it might be prudent to pull the axle and perform the grease test again just to be sure. At 6mm, I have no doubt the seal is riding on the polished shoulder of the retainer. But, if it's riding close to the bevel, over time as the bearing ages and develops play, it might cause you to have a seal failure sooner than if you have the seal more centered on the retainer.
Lots of guys spend the time building their own axle tool and that's great if that's what they want to do. I checked out Austin's video and he's done something similar that a lot of guys before him have done. But, what his tool doesn't do is provide an easy way for removing the inner retainer and ABS tone ring like our Buddy Duane's axle toolset does. Duane has been making these toolsets out of his home in Omaha Nebraska for the past 4.5 years. For the time this guy Austin spent on fabbing up his own tool, he simply could have ordered the tool Duane sells for $127. So kudos to Austin for making his own tool, but it's not better than the one Duane sells for a very affordable price. We feature the Duane's toolset in this video: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html Here's a link to Duane's tool set: ebay.us/lhibma
Hey John, glad you like the video. I have heard about the freezer trick before but I haven't tried it yet. People mention the same thing in regards to seals. I take it you're talking about putting the bearing into the bearing case on the backing plate. My new trick is to use an ABS clean-out to press the bearing into the case. I mention this in a pinned comment. It works really well. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great video. Very informative. I have a 01 tacoma and am have an issue. I do not have a press and had a local shop do the press work for me. They pressed the retainer on too far and it never make contact with the seal. Their solution is to just press another retainer on. My axil is a ABS axil but with out the electronics. Actual non ABS unit, with the ABS AXil housing. The measurements look like this should work great. Do you for see any issues with having a extra retainer pressed on the axil?
No, I don't see any issue with it, but because they pressed the other retainer and ABS tone ring on too far, you won't be able to pull the parts off with a tool like we used if the job ever needs to be done again. They will have to be cut off. It never ceases to amaze me how many shops don't know what the f*ck they are doing when it comes to this job.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to press the extra retainer on for now and deal with cutting the extra one off down the road. Keep up with the great informative videos!
Thanks for the nice compliment Kevin. We appreciate it. You should watch out Part 2 video for this repair where we showcase a new tool that is much better for doing rear axle work on Toyota/Lexus SUVs and Trucks. You should also read the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for updates and further information on the job. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GWAEYFiCUoySzhK3
Which seal driver did you use the otc or the hf kit noticed when you finally hammered the seal in looked like ya used the otc if ya did use the otc what seal driver you use that worked the best I have the same otc kit @timmy the toolman
I used the OTC kit. Those plastic seal drivers from Harbor Freight aren't the greatest and weren't getting the job done. I can't remember which size I used from the OTC kit but it's the one in the kit that fits the diameter of the seal closest. You don't want to use a driver that's too small that will end up creasing the seal and pushing the sealing lip inboard. The strongest point of the seal is on the outside shoulder. So, there's a driver in that OTC kit that's the obvious choice.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I have had problems with the seals concaving and realized the seal I got had a rubber outer edge instead of the smooth metal machined edge at it was 2000s to big and it creased on me so had to by better seals got them from toyota doing job again appreciate the reply timmy
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Use the one that slightly bigger. That's the one I have used for all the jobs I've done. You might think the larger driver would impede you from fully driving the seal all the way into the axle housing but I don't think that's the case. If you use the one that's smaller than the outer diameter of the seal, that will dramatically increase your chances of damaging the seal while you're driving it in. That's my opinion.
Very important question about the video- is the bearing play you showed at 20:53 normal or excessive? Once the bearing is replaced will it exhibit this play? I took my axles out and both are leaking oil but have not got on the brake shoes. Both exhibit this play. Many of us dont have axle seals leaking but are trying to determine what play is excessive before replacing the bearings. Thank you -I and many appreciate your videos.
Even new bearings will exhibit some play when the backing plate is moved like I did in the video at that time stamp. When the axle is bolted to the axle, you shouldn't detect movement. Hard to say if what you have is too much. Normally to test for excessive bearing play the axle and wheel are attached to the vehicle. You simply grab the wheel and the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and push and pull with opposing force in an attempt to detect any movement. If you feel any movement, the bearing should be replaced. If you're thinking of just replacing seals, you should repack the bearings with a high quality, high temp bearing grease. You can lift up the dust seal of the bearing with a tiny flat blade screwdriver to add grease. You would also have to address the proper mating of the new seal with the inner retainer by adjusting the position or orientation of the retainer (flipping it). If you watch the beginning of the video, I cover this. Just replacing the seal and doing nothing else will probably generate a poor result.
Several years ago I changed the front and rear bearings on my 2000 4 Runner. I chose option #2. The cost of the press work at the shop was about the price of the HF 20 ton press. Now I have the press anyway, but it does get in the way. Helps to add second piece of angle steel to the legs and some heavy duty castors.
Thanks. Be sure to watch Part 2 as well and read the video descriptions and comments we pinned. There's lots more helpful information shared you don't want to miss out on.
You're welcome. That's awesome you were able to make your own tool. One day I'll learn how to weld and maybe be able to make my own custom stuff too. Happy Wrenching.
You're welcome Justin. I just learned though that the 2001 and 2002 have a different bearing than the 1996-2000 3rd Gen 4runners. Look at the video description and I list the part numbers there.
I got a question. I have the heads of my 4x4 2000 5spd 4runner. over heated when the radiator failed(cracked behind fan shroud). I got a valvejob done and resurfaced the heads. bolted them on, did a leakdown test to find #2 & 4 cylinder still very low(at 85psi on the inlet of the leakdown tester I was seeing 25psi on the outlet) but no longer venting through the exhaust or intake valves so bad rings need to remove those pistons. What do you thing will be easier removing driveline ,front diff and oil pan or proceed to pull out engine? only thing is I really want to avoid having to pull out the trans/transfer case etc. Just curious what your opinion would be since your familiar with these rigs
Hey Justin, it could be bad rings on those 2 cylinders but it could be something else. #1, if it's bad rings, when the cylinder is pressurized, you should be able to hear air escaping from the oil fill cap, PCV valve or even the oil dipstick tube. I'd redo the leak down test in both those cylinders and see if you're hearing air escaping from any of the areas I mentioned. If not, there's a chance the air is escaping between the two cylinders or into the coolant channels. If you take your radiator cap off and see bubbles, the head gasket isn't sealing and you're losing pressure into the coolant channels. If you don't see bubbles, then there's a very good possibility that you're leaking between the cylinders. Cylinders #2 and #4 are next to each other. When you do the leak down test in either cylinder, the pressure could be leaking into the cylinder next door. I now own a cylinder compression tester and leak down tester but I have yet to use it. I was thinking of making a video of doing a compression test of the cylinders on my rig. All the advice I gave you above is from reading and not from personal experience. But, I did quite a bit of reading on the subject so I believe I understand it pretty well. I've never pulled an engine on one of these rigs or any other rig for that matter. But, if I were going to do work on the lower half of an engine, I'd just pull the engine and work on it while it's on a stand. Since you have a manual transmission and the input shaft slides through the clutch and flywheel, I'm pretty sure you'd want to pull the transmission out to get the engine out.
Great video, Lots of good info. Have been debating on doing this on my 2002 Sequoia ( bought it new, has 230k). Since I pulled the axle myself and took it to my local Toyota dealership here in Milledgeville, Georgia. Was Shocked to get a quote ( parts and labor) for $725.00 with the axle removed and cleaned up. Want to do the other side as well, With the cost of the bearing puller tool and the press, I would still save hundreds of dollars by doing it myself.
Dealership Service Departments can be a huge rip-off. You could also check around for local machine shops that could do the press work for you. You just want to make sure they are familiar with these axles and that they will be pulling the parts off rather than cutting them off. There's been plenty of horror stories of people saying a machine shop scored there axle shaft with a cutting wheel. If you pull the parts off, you can reuse all 4 retainers and both ABS gears. This will save you around $150 in parts. Read the video description where I explain how you can save money on parts. If you like wrenching, a press is a nice tool to have. I've used my Harbor Freight 20 ton press lots of times now. The specialty axle tool is the hard one but you can always sell it on Ebay or Craigslist and get some of you money back if you don't want to keep it.
Thanks again, Timmy The Toolman. Had been sitting on the fence about doing this myself, but after watching your video the decision was easy. The axle tool is already in the mail and will be picking up the press later this week. plan on doing the work next week. Still, don't understand the negative comments people have left, have watched a few TH-cam videos before I saw yours. By far this is the most informative.
Glad to hear you're tackling this job yourself and using our video as a reference. In regards to negative comments, I've learned you can have the most detailed and informative video regarding a job and still not please everyone. There's also just haters out there, whether it's other TH-camrs that don't like the fact we're having success with our channel or it's just jerks who'll give us a thumbs down regardless of how good of a job we do with a video. We can't do anything about people who give a thumbs down for one of our videos but we do respond to negative comments if we feel there's a chance to educate them and educate anyone else that's reading their comment. Some comments are just way out of line and then those people's comments are blocked permanently from our channel.
Seriously , I don't know why people can leave negative reviews, maybe constructive criticism, Timmah says it himself (i'm not a pro mechanic) but he explains his mistakes and makes corrections in the video's. Timmah has helped me on numerous repairs on my runners. I'm hoping to get out to his next sick mod BBq if humanly possible to say thanks in person
Hey Tim, great videos. I did this repair about a year ago. Took the axle to Toyota to have new parts pressed on and its been leaking again for a few months. Im going to do the work myself this time with a buddies press. Can I reuse retainer's and ABS ring since those parts are new and replace bearing and seal only?
If you want to reuse the retainers, swap the positions. Put the one that the seal was riding on against the bearing and put the one that was against the bearing where it will mate up with the seal. The seal lip does wear into the retainer minutely and that's why I'm suggesting to swap the positions. The ABS gear can be reused as well. So yeah, just the seals and bearings. You might want to replace those o-rings at the end of axle housing too.
Thank you for the videos you have been super helpful with me working on my 04 tocoma. 1 question tho do you know the part number for the studs you ripped the threads off of? I can’t seem to find them and I broke one trying to get it off the truck. Thank you again
Hey Timmy, is this something that needs to be fixed asap? Gear oil is spilling all over my right rear tire and the left side is showing signs aswell but not as bad as the right side. I'm planning to remove the axles myself and give them to my mechanic, but money is tight at the moment especially since its nearing the holidays. I'm planning to have it done by the first or second week of January. And thank you for your content :)
As long as you're keeping your differential gear oil topped off, you have some time. The one issue that can occur is your brake shoes may very well be coated in gear oil which will negatively affect your braking. The other thing is the brake shoes will wick up the gear oil and start to swell. If it goes on long enough, the shoes can start to drag in the drum and then you're pretty much at the point you're going to have to do something about it.
Timmy, watched it yesterday. Kickass video. Most of them out there have you cutting the abs gear and retainer ring off and then beating the bearing out and installing new bearing by pressing in on the new bearings inner race. Not good. yeah, you can also take your axles to a machine shop and let them fk them up doing the replacement or you can bite the bullet, get the proper tools and do it correctly. $190 shipped for the durasolid axle remover really hurt though. That was more than the 20 ton press. Absolutely best video i have seen for doing 3rd gen. axle bearing replacement and i have watched plenty of them.
james koecher We're glad you liked the video James. Yeah the Durasolid tool is a little pricey but it pays for itself in one job, at least in my area. I helped a guy the other day do his axle seal job when he told me the cheapest shop he could find wanted $150 per side to do the press work. One shop wanted $300 per side. The guy gave me some money to thank me for the help. Now that you have the press and the special tool, maybe you could do the same and help some others out with the job saving them some money and you gain some in return. Just remember the limitations of the tool and either alter that plate like I did so the bolt threads stick out further or use longer bolts to press the axles out of the bearing. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy, as always, Great vídeo. I need to replace the axle seals since the drum is full of grease or oil, I did not know about this problem until I was checking the spare tire and I could see that the drum was full of grease, there is no noise or any sympton. How can I know that should to replace the bearings and not only the seals? Thanks Timmy!
The gear lube has been seeping through your bearing. That doesn't mean your bearing is bad now but when I did my 1995 T100 I could tell there was slop in the bearing, 200,00 miles go figure. I could not find anyone to press mine off so I fought with it with 12 ton HF press. Getting the bearing retainer sleeve off was the worse part. I ground through it with a dermal type tool. I'll do the other side but you need a lot of tools to rig up your press if you don't all the nice tools Timmy has.
Neither Sean or I are Master Mechanics. We're just DIYers. If you're referring to the TH-cam sign I hang in my garage, it's meant as a joke. There's no such think as a TH-cam Master Mechanic
It's a grease gun I bought a long time ago at a bicycle shop. The brand name is Dualco. I did a quick search on Amazon and this is what I came up with: www.amazon.com/DUALCO-METAL-GREASE-GUN-PACK/dp/B015RV444E/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518072721&sr=1-2&keywords=dualco+grease+gun&dpID=51K0BPLe8nL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
my axle seal was bad enough that the brakes were soaked in oil. I thought Toyota was silly to have gaskets between the axle flange and brake drum. I was wrong. if that gasket is in there, and you lose a seal, an oil slinger on the back side of the flange captures the oil with centrifugal force and it migrates out a hole between the wheel studs. it will oil up the tire and things, but keep the oil from soaking the brakes. well worth making sure it's in there !
Yeah, I've seen that seal in parts schematics but have never seen one on any Toyota or Lexus I've ever worked on. You are right that the axle flange gasket would help keep the gear oil out of the brakes.
Thanks for the reply, I found the magic number for me was 1.475" from the top of the bearing to the top of the tone ring. Put my seal dead center with the bevel down. My axle polished surface is also slanted higher and lower on one side and ended up 7.50 mm for dead center. Axles surface do vary a little and so do the seal lip. Thanks again
I have also noticed the polished surface is a little slanted. Approximately 1mm difference between opposing side. That 7.5mm measurement sounds very high to me but if you say it's good, then it's good. I just find it odd that I've done around 9 sets of these axles and pretty much found 5mm of polished axle showing was about right. I did the grease test on every set too. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the video guys. Do you remember if you drove the new inner seal into the axle housing with the Pittsburgh (black) press kit or the OTC (silver) press kit? The video doesn’t show which one actually drove the seal in. I just damaged my new seal with a press kit from AutoZone that didn’t have a good sized press disc.
We used the OTC kit with the metal silver disks. There's one in that kit that fits the diameter of the seal very well. A link to that kit is in the video description.
Timmy, I LOVE YOUR VIDEO!!! im assuming its the same for a tacoma. Do you have a method for the front wheel bearing? I am a lost to take it off. Thanks!
Hi Tim, just another update. Well the driver's side started to leak. I went ahead and ordered the older style seal. I took her apart and found the aftermarket spacer that the seal rides on walked itself OUT of place. I removed the shaft and something looked odd. Where's the last spacer?? It was still sitting in the seal!!!! I have a NOS OEM spacer. I made some measurements. The aftermarket spacer is 40.02mm I.D. the OEM is 39.93mm I.D. Going to go to my friend's and press the OEM spacer on. Going to have to replace the seal as well since I'm not sure if the seal is distorted now. SMH. Still love this truck. Almost 314K miles and still running strong!
I've never heard of that happening. I've heard of aftermarket retainers causing tools to bend and break because the force to remove them was much more than it would take to remove an OEM retainer. Now I guess they make them too big. That's one of the big issues with aftermarket parts is the quality control.
In your opinion, which I value highly, should I replace my axel seals and bearings before I have an issue as preventative maintenance? I have no issues currently. Or save the money and do it when needed? I plan to do the rear brakes soon. My truck only has 86k miles but it’s 22 years old.
As long as the seals aren't leaking and the bearing don't have play or are making noise, I wouldn't do it. You can pull the ABS sensors and look into the axle housing so verify if the seals are holding. If they are showing signs of letting gear oil past, then I'd do the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Tim. I watch your videos daily. You’re a huge help and have responded to me multiple times on old videos. Do you have a Venmo or PayPal? I’d like to buy you a beer/coffee.
Hey Timmy, first off thank you and Sean so much. I'm not a mechanic and it's only because of your vids and nostalgia of seeing the place I where I was born, that I can work on my rig confidently. About to purchase a press, 12 T is good enough to move all of our parts yes? HF has same setup as yours with 12 T and it's a bit cheaper.
Hey Rob, the special tool we now recommend that we feature in Part 2 of this repair won't fit in between the cross member of that 12 ton press. I think Duane who makes the tool did make one that will fit the 12 ton press but you'll need to look on his Ebay page and find out. You can also send him a message to find out. But, the 20 ton press isn't much more money and is way better in my opinion. If you ever want to do front wheel bearings, I don't know if the the 12 ton press can handle it. The 20 ton press is well worth the extra expense in my opinion.
@@TimmyTheToolman That settles it then sir. As I regaurd you as the DIY king of maintenance for our vehicles; already purchased from Donald so 20T it is. Thanks again for ALL of your efforts and quick reply!
You just saved me some money....I pulled rear axles off a 2002 4runner with front end damage. And was going to rebuild these and install them on my 2000 4runner. I was about to order bearings for a 2000 but now I will go with 2002. I wonder why they changed.....
No clue why Toyota decided to change the bearing design. Honestly, it might not matter but it's better to play it safe and use the correct bearings for your year axles. Glad our video helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman it does matter. I dived into it this morning. Loook at the inner axle shafts between 1996-2000 and then compare to 2001-2002. I posted the part numbers between each on the Toyota-4runner.org this morning. May be worth spreading that knowledge
Doing this job on my 96 limited with ABS. Luckly, i have an MTS test frame at my disposal so i can precisely press the bearings and retainers. Will the ABS gear go back on easy? What is the likelihood that my oil seal is leaking because of a bent axle? (I haven't done any rock crawling or anything crazy, no bad pot hole acccidents either) Tim, thank you for your time in making these videos. These jobs would be substantially harder without this awesome reference.
Jacob Carroll Hey Jacob, the ABS gear, retainers and axle all press on pretty easy. I do lubricate the axle shaft with some grease to allow the parts to slide on easier. It's the press work to pull things off that requires more force because they tend to get locked on there over time. Pressing the axle through the old bearing requires the most force so you will experience a build up of pressure and then it finally breaks free and starts moving. After it gets moving, the pressing goes very smooth. I doubt either of your axles are bent. You would either have to be doing some aggressive offloading or you got into an accident to bend one of those shafts. Good luck with the job!
Hi Timmy. I think I found my issue. I lifted the car up from the rear and put it in gear and I found the noise. I believe the rear bearing on the left is the culprit. Quick question. This new being puller from Duane on Ebay, does it come with the splitter too? Is that what the red plate with the cut out, and the black bolts is??
Hey Lester, glad you figured out the culprit. The link we provide in Part 2 is the complete tool with all the accessories. Here's the Tool Kit I recommend you buy from Duane: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02%2F203187764458&campid=5338641100&toolid=10001&customid= In the video, I talk about saving money on the parts. For sure reuse both ABS tone rings and reuse the outer retainers that go against the bearings. But, please buy 2 new retainers for the inner position and I explain the reason in the comment I pinned (1st comment you'll see). Good luck with the job and if you have any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
@markstevens1729 Again, that's cool, but how much time do you think you invested into making them? I'm all about DIY. It's what our channel is all about. But, sometimes spending the money makes total sense. Maybe you just like fabricating, and you wanted the challenge. If so, then it was worth it. But, if you think the time you spent making the tools was worth the $75 savings, well, you should put more value on your time.
@markstevens1729 Double in Canada? I think your country needs new leadership just like the U.S. does. Anyway, you made the necessary tools and you got it done. Good job!
Hey Mark, I'm not sure what you're asking. There's no hub on a rear axle set-up. There's just the axle, bearing, retainers and seal. So, if you asking if you can just buy the whole axle assembly with the bearings and retainers already on with the brakes from Toyota, I don't know if they sell it complete like that. Your local dealer will be able to answer this question for you though. This would not be cost effective though. It would cost you a ton of money.
@@TimmyTheToolman Good evening Timmy. I pulled both axle shafts after work today. Mine doesn't have a abs gear. I took some pictures. Do you have an email I can send them to?
@@McWeldShit What model do you have? Some of the base models didn't come with ABS. Send me a pic of one of your axles and send me pic of your rear axle housing. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
It could do it. There's guys that have been able to do it with the 12 ton press. But, the special service tool we link in the video description won't fit between the cross member on the 12 ton press. The seller of the tool does make one that will fit though. Here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/193637211065?hash=item2d15ad5bb9:g:EgIAAOSwUgBfGZx7&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 With all that said, I still think the 20 press is the way to go. If you ever had to do front wheel bearings, I don't know if the 12 ton press could do it. It takes a way more force to push the hub out of the bearing. The 20 ton press doesn't cost much more so I believe it's a much better purchase.
@@TimmyTheToolman I do have to do the front, thank you for responding to my questions! I’ll get the 20 ton. There are so many Toyota fans out there, and your videos and you and Shawn make it so we can enjoy the maintenance on our rides!
The guy down the road from me has a first GEN just like mine he has blocks for a lift kit and he just had those seals replaced in it without replacing the bearings I’d be willing to bet that they didn’t Realize the seals in a different spot possibly and without replacing his bearings to they ran into the same scenario . Flip the retainer!!
Great video but I'm not sure if I agree with you on the oil compromising the bearing. It's a lot of extra work and money to replace them. My bearings had identical play to yours, and I could see where some thinned out grease was leaking from the bearings. I just replaced the seals and o rings, no bearings. Going on a year now with no leaks and no bearing noise.
Brad, you rolled the dice to save yourself some time and money and so far your gamble is paying off. Without a doubt the gear oil will wash out the bearing grease. Depending on how long the gear oil was allowed to surround the bearing will determine how much grease was washed out. Hopefully you caught it really quick and you didn't lose too much of your bearing grease. For these videos, I give my best advice. From what I've read and experienced myself when the Toyota dealership messed up my axle seal job and the dealership replaced the bearings because gear oil had compromised the bearings, the safe bet is to always replace the bearings so you don't find yourself going back in sooner than you would have liked to do the job all over again. It would also really suck to be on a road trip, have a bearing failure and then be forced to pay high labor rates at the nearest shop so you can get back on the road.
@TimmyTheToolman Just watched. Nice man. Big difference. Hey, I've noticed in the videos that you're working usually on the concrete or with a little pad. Do yourself a big favor...I'm 73...and get used yoga mats at Goodwill. You'll thank me later.
By the way. What have you heard. That running wheel spacers...1 1/4"...will prematurely wear out seals? (And I wonder what premature means. 10k, 50k, 100k). Not that I'm too worried about it. AND...as long as I have your attention, thank you, what are your thoughts about leveling the panhard bar after a 2 1/2" lift?
In the hopes you may still get an alert of new comment. I have 1996 4runner, changed that axle seals as guided in your video here, noted that I had very low diff fluid when I drained it. I had to replace the shoes as they were drenched in gear oil. I also had the drums turned. When I got everything back in place, I filled it with new gear oil, but for the next several days have noted a smell like burning clutch from the rear end. I have no leaks. I put a new breather valve in... Is this smell the gear oil or the bakes settling in?
Some gear oil could have still been in the oil slinger. That's the metal thing on the inside of the axle face. Oil that went through the bearing was directed into it. The design was meant to send the oil to the outside of the drum, but obviously it's not a perfect design. So, I think there's a chance some oil inside the slinger made it's way into the brakes. You could pull the ABS sensors to verify the seals are holding. If you see gear oil in the cavity where the ABS tone ring is, that means gear oil is getting past the seals. If that area is dry, your seals are good. I'm assuming you verified a good mating of the seal with the inner retainer by doing either a grease test or sharpie test.
I did do the grease test and it looked good to my eye, grease got pushed back and there was a good section of clean polished metal. I guess the smell, more like burnt clutch, seemed new/different to me. Didn't smell anything like the gear oil. Hoping there was a, oh yeah, that's the new shoes seating..." answer, that my inexperience wouldn't allow me to identify. I do a double check of everything. Thanks for the help.
@@TimmyTheToolman took the sensors off and didn't see anythink that looked like gear oil, a little axle grease that I used when putting everything back together, but don't think it would be the culprit of the clutch smell. Took drums off and everything looked dry although it was a lot of brake dust for brand new shoes. But it did help me see that everything was dry in there. Must be something unrelated that I'll have to keep hunting for. Very pleasant surprise to get this much feedback from you on this. I really appreciate it!
@@brianflett7994 Good to hear everything looks good. It could have been some residual gear oil in the oil slinger that worked its way into the brakes but is now gone.
Timmy! I did this job about 4 months ago and today noticed my drum was grabbing on the right side. Sure enough my seal was leaking (same side as last time). This time I'm just going to the replace the right side since the left is brand new and no signs of leaking. What parts can I get away with reusing? Obviously I'll need a new seal, bearing, and shoes. Can I reuse the retainers, abs rings, etc?
Sorry to hear that. You can reuse all the parts. Since that bearing has very little miles on it, I don't think it's necessary to replace it. But, I would pry up the dust seal to see how the grease looks in there. Just get a very small thin bladed screwdriver in there to pop the dust seal up. This would obviously be the side of the bearing facing the ABS tone ring because you can't access the other side of the bearing. if the grease looks good and wasn't contaminated with gear oil, just seal it back up. If gear oil did get in and wash some of the grease out, clean it up and repack it with a hi-temp wheel bearing grease you can find at any auto parts store. Next, replace the axle seal and just be careful how much force you use to drive it in. Maybe what happened last time is you creased the seal and pushed the sealing lip more inboard. But regardless, you have to perform the grease test to confirm where the seal is riding on the inner retainer. Did you do this last time and it looked good? If so, I'm confused how it could have failed if you did this unless when you put the axle in you slammed it in the there and damaged the seal. If the seal mating with the inner retainer isn't good, you will have to adjust the position of the inner retainer on the axle so it does mate up well. Ideally, you want the seal lip to ride in the middle of the polished shoulder of the retainer but somewhere close is fine. It doesn't have to be perfect. You just don't want the lip really close to either edge (bevel or opposite side), 3mm away at least. You can make this adjustment the same way you pulled the parts off by getting the special tool with a bearing splitter attached to get under the ABS tone ring and pull the ABS tone ring and inner retainer up. After you get the new seal in, I'd perform the grease test with the axle as is just to see where it's riding. Then you'll know how much adjustment you need to make with the position of the inner retainer. So, with an axle seal replacement, possibly some grease re-packing, and possibly an adjustment of where the inner retainer sits on the axle, you should be back in business. Oh, maybe another set of brake shoes because they soaked up all that grease. If you have any more questions, just ask.
Dennis Khan Hey Dennis, you can definitely do it yourself with the right tools. Look at the list of tools in the video description and what they would cost you compared to what a shop would charge for this. Even if you end up spending more on the tools, you now own all this stuff for other projects. I've used the Harbor Freight press for several jobs now and same for the press sleeve kit. The bearing splitter I've used mainly for the rear axle job but I recently learned they will help me press out bushings from the front upper control arms. The only tools that has a singular use is the Durasolid axle tool. But, offer one person your help for a $200 and you've now paid for the tool. Lots of people need this repair. People are hitting me up all the time for help. If you don't want to keep the tool, you can always resell it on Ebay or Craigslist. The other option to save money is to have a machine shop do the press work for you but you have to be picky which shop you choose because it's fairly common for them to do the press work wrong or screw up your axles by cutting off the parts and scoring your axles. If you're into this kind of work, I'd suggest investing in the tools. Make sure you read the video description for ideas on saving money on parts as well as all the links to the tools I purchased for this job. Good luck!
I hope you would say how much the parts approximately cost, I did this job with the generic parts and it worked fine. The ABS system works based on The Hall Effect, if you are interested you can look it up.
The parts are all listed in the video description. You could add up what the OEM cost would be. Aftermarket huh? Well, time will tell if your decision was a good one.
Tim, your videos are superior and valued by many. I have a big oily mess inside of a rear drum which is/was causing a squeal noise when braking. I'm having trouble determining whether the wheel cylinder or the axle seal is the source. The thick, black, oily residue covers the shoes and most of the components. There is no exterior leak. Fluid levels for brake fluid and axle fluid appear fine. The underside of the rubber boots on the cylinders appear fine, as does the inside of the axle with the ABS sensor removed. Any thoughts? I can do the brakes, but the seals are probably beyond my time/ability/tools.
If you want to double check if it's gear oil that has gotten past the axle seal, jack up the rear end with both wheels off the ground, remove the wheel on the affected side, pull the ABS sensor and look into the ABS hole while turning the axle. If you can see gear oil being lapped up by the ABS tone ring, the seal is leaking and what you're seeing in the brakes is definitely gear oil. Basically, what you've said leads me to believe it's gear oil. A thick black oily residue is most likely gear oil that has mixed with the brake dust.
@Timmy The Toolman any update on this project since installation? Did flipping the retainer actually work and it didnt leak? I plan to do this tomorrow. Thanks for the video btw
The flip method has held up for 4+ years and 60k miles. The main thing regarding this repair and verifying you have a good mating of the inner retainer and axle seal. All flipping the retainer does is allow a good mating without having to risk the retainer running up against the inside of the axle housing.
@@TimmyTheToolman that sounds like a job well done to me, thank you so much for such a quick reply Timmy. I'm excited to do this project tomorrow following another one of your video haha. I did the cv boot mod following your video and it hasn't leak since, thank so much for the videos you make keep them up. Thanks again.
I loved the video, i just wished I watched it before I sent my axel in to my friend that pressed the retainer ring way too much. We added a second ring and got 3mm of polished axle showing, it doesnt sit right in the axle housing, it hits the axel, just pass the seal. Is there any remedy for this? We did cut off the extra ratainer. Now we are stuck with the first retainer pushed up against the toner ring. We dont have a bearing puller, my friend had to heat and cut the abs ring and retainer off the first time. ANd I dont want to have to do that again. is there a possible ratainer ring we could add to the shaft that is less than 10mm, that would give us more than 3mm of polished axel? Thanks for your time and hopefully a reply soon.
Paula Marie Tavares there is no other retainer ring I know of.. the best thing to do at this point is use a bearing splitting to pull it back up into the right position.
Is that much play in the wheel bearing normal? I’m replacing my axle seal and saw that I have the same play in the bearing as you do, should I get it replaced or is it in good condition.
What I learned is even new bearings have play but I think the movement you see with the axle not bolted up to the axle housing is deceiving. Once the axle is bolted to the housing, I believe it locks everything together and the play goes away.
Because when you pull the axles, a lot of it will leak out until the level gets below the axles tubes. You could jack up one side at a time and limit the gear oil loss, but that's not what we did.
Great video, i have to do this job on my 2000tundra 4.7, only problem i have is i dont have a good mail order parts company to buy from? Can you suggest any?
I buy all my parts through Camelback Toyota out of Arizona. parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329 Their prices are competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if you order is $150 or more. They only charge a $3 handling fee. If you have any questions about parts you need, you can call and talk to Jorge (he calls himself George), he's in charge of the online sales currently. He's a nice guy and very helpful. If you talk to him, tell him Timmy the Toolman says hi. Be sure to read the video description before ordering parts because I describe how you can save money by reusing some of the parts.
5mm seemed like the perfect measurement at first but it depends where you measure from. Where the polished surface starts isn't perfectly symmetrical on the axle. You'll notice a high and low side and that's due to how the axles were machined. So, a safer starting point is at 3-4mm. Then insert the axle and perform a sharpie or grease test. You'll then see if you're good or you might have to drive the retainer and ABS tone ring on a little further. Please read the comment I pinned for updated information on this repair. It's important you read it. I also recommend you watch Part 2: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html and read the comment I pinned for that video. Doing all that will make you the most prepared you can be for this job. It's worth your time to be as informed as possible so you do it once and it's done right. Good luck!
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
*VERY IMPORTANT. PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE STARTING THIS JOB*
1) *Saving Money on Parts* If you pull the parts off like we show in the video, you can REUSE the ABS TONE RINGS and reuse BOTH OUTER RETAINERS. We suggest you PURCHASE NEW INNER RETAINERS to mate up with the new seal because the retainers sustain some damage during removal. A new retainer will have a perfectly machined inner surface to mate up with the axle shaft. Upon removal, some slight gouging occurs to the retainer and now it's no longer a perfectly smooth machined surface. If you put a used retainer back on the axle in the inner position to mate up with the seal, there's a chance gear oil could travel between the axle surface and the inner diameter of the inner retainer due to the grooves left in the retainer from the removal process. It's obvious the retainer, ABS tone ring and inner race of the bearing are made from a softer metal than axle because the axle sustains no damage from the installation and removal of the parts.
2) Some people have reported that even after doing everything right, they still had gear oil getting past the seal. One culprit ended up being the metal to metal connection of the axle seal with the axle housing. For some people, a previous mechanic or DIYer might have not been very careful and scored the axle housing with a seal puller or other tool. Others might have had no detectable imperfection in the axle housing but they still had gear oil sneak past that metal to metal connection of the axle seal and axle housing. A fix that will work for this situation is cleaning up the surface of the axle housing with acetone or denatured alcohol and doing the same with the outer surface of a new axle seal. Smear some Toyota Red FIPG which is meant to work with gear oil applications or a similar gasket sealer meant to work with gear oil onto the axle housing sealing surface and also some on the seal itself and then drive it in. The FIPG will fill any tiny imperfections in the metal and hopefully stop gear oil from being able to get past this connection.
3) The original axle tool we used made made by Durasolid is no longer the best tool for the job in our opinion. The tool we now recommend is made by this guy Duane that sells them on Ebay. It is a very well-designed tool that saves you time and money. Here's a link to Duane's Ebay store: www.ebay.com/usr/donald-the-bonald?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Here's a link to a video showing us using the new tool: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html Also, here's a direct link to Axle Puller/Installer for sale on Duane's Ebay store we used in that video: www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02/203187764458?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
4) There are many Ebay stores selling a Chinese Copy of Duane's tool. Please do not reward these dishonest people by buying the tool from them. Duane makes his tools at his home in Omaha Nebraska. He has changed the color of his tool to BLUE to differentiate it from all the Chinese Copies being sold on Ebay. Please support Duane and Buy American!
Update 12/07/21 - the Chinese copiers are now undercutting Duane's prices so drastically that he would take a loss if he sold the tool for the price they are offering it for. The only way Duane can give you a more competitive price is if you email him directly and take the Ebay middle man out of it.
Duane's email address is: *dtb2253x@**yahoo.com*
5) When using the flipped inner retainer technique, it appeared 5mm of polished axle showing was about perfect to get the seal lip riding dead center on the shoulder of the retainer. After pulling some axles from rigs we did this job on a couple years ago, it looks like 3-4mm of polished axle showing would be a better initial measurement to use. With that said, you still need to verify you have a good mating of the seal and inner retainer by performing a grease of sharpie test. After that initial grease or sharpie test, you'll now if you got it perfect or you'll need to do some adjustment. Does the seal absolutely need to ride dead center on the retainer? The answer is no. Somewhere close is fine. The reason why you want it close to center is to allow for axle play as the bearing ages. If you're close to the one of the edges, the axle play could allow the seal to not ride on the retainer and then you'll develop a leak.
6) In regards to the grease test, make sure the bearing is fully seated into the bearing case before performing it. If the bearing isn't fully seated into the bearing case, you won't get an accurate grease test. We show how you can make sure the bearing is fully seated by lightly popping the splined end of the axle shaft into a piece of wood on the ground. You can watch this technique starting at play time 30:31.
7) Starting at play time 44:20 we show you how to install the new bearing into the bearing case. As you could see from the video, when the bearing is squared up perfectly, it literally falls into the case. It's not a press fit at all. My new favorite tool for installing the bearing is using a 3" ABS Clean-Out and Cap. The 3" Clean-Out outer diameter is 3 1/2" wide and fits perfectly the outer diameter of the bearing. Applying the force to the outside of the bearing is the correct method to use when you cannot support the opposing side of the bearing like in this application. The plastic ABS Fitting and Cap also gives me good feedback when installing the bearing. Since I know the bearing should go in very easy when it's squared up well with the bearing case, if I see the cap start to bend from the force or I feel any resistance in the press handle, I back off, reset and try again. You don't want to force the bearing into the case and get it stuck. It should go in very smoothly and with almost no force. Check out the video description for a link to what an ABS Clean-Out and Cap looks like.
8) Because the bearing fits fairly loosely into the bearing case, I now slide the backing plate, Durasolid special service tool and press sleeve onto the axle shaft with the axle shaft parallel to the ground. Only a tiny bit of force is necessary to dislodge the bearing from the case so if I slide everything on in this fashion first and then bring the assembly vertical to fit it onto the press, I have much less of a chance of dislodging the bearing. This technique requires an assistant but having somebody assist with this repair is ideal anyway. Having an extra set of hands to get the axle assembly onto and off the press is very handy saving you time and physical effort.
Timmy The Toolman will this work on the 2000 landcruiser/lx470 also? The rear looks very similar except the landcruiser/LX 470 has rear rotors and drums as e-brake. Thanks!
Does this method apply to 3rd gen 4 runner only? or could I do the same thing on my 04 tacoma?
LookN0Hands It would be the same for your 1st Gen Tacoma. Sorry for the very late reply. I missed your comment.
Duc The axles can be similar but we have no experience with the Land Cruiser or Lexus LX470 so we don’t know if the procedure would be the same and if the tools we use will work. Sorry for the very late reply. We missed your comment.
I need help
This is probably one of the best videos I’ve seen on TH-cam. Thank you so much for this!
clarkinthedark1 you’re welcome! It’s comments like these that fuel the fire for us to keep on making videos like these
My rear axle seal blew a few days ago and I am gearing up to do this job. I got the harbor freight press today and just ordered Duane's tool as reccomended. I gotta give you some serious thanks for filming this. This is truly the best resource I could hope for.
Good job deciding to tackle this job yourself. It will be a good experience and you'll learn a lot. Hope the job goes smooth for you. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I got the axle seals replaced thanks to the info you put out. As soon as I started the car after finishing the job, it started leaking coolant everywhere from behind the engine somewhere. Fun stuff.
@@cameronnorton5898 Glad you got the axle seal job done successfully and hopefully whatever is leaking is an easy fix. Happy Wrenching!
Not sure if it was mentioned, but another very common problem with a very simple solution, is the differential vent that easily gets plugged and when the fluid gets hot, it builds pressure and blows out the seals. The solution is to clean or check periodically or attach a line up to the sides of the bed to keep it away from water/gunk intrusion
I don't think we mentioned it in the video but we do mention the possibility of a clogged breather in the video description as the culprit of why the seal(s) failed. We also do have a rear differential extended breather mod video: th-cam.com/video/tCGMa4vng_g/w-d-xo.html Thanks for the comment.
I changed my breather vent on my Tacoma and when I unscrewed it I heard a poof noise so I’m glad I put in a new one.
Also I’m wondering if in a pinch could the oil be replaced through the vent hole 🕳️???
Just a thought 💭.
Awesome video Timmy The Toolman, one of the best that ive seen on youtube about rear axle seals on our 4Runners!
Thanks Tyler. We appreciate you taking the time to comment.
I have a 2005 Sequoia. Shops in the Las Vegas area have quoted me $1400 PER SIDE to replace the rear axle bearings. Would love to purchase all the tools and do the work myself, but I don't have anyone here that could walk me through it if I get stuck. Thanks for your video. It's the most thorough and detailed I have found.
Mike, you don't need anyone to walk you through anything. All the information you need is in our videos. We have a Part 2 to this video that showcases a new tool that works much better than the original tool. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html The amount these shops are quoting is ridiculous That's almost $3000. You can get the Harbor Freight Press and the special axle tool that Duane makes for around $400 max. The bearing and other parts will run you another $250 for so. $650 compared to $3000 is a huge difference. Plus, you gain the tools that you can use again. That press comes in very handy. The axle tool you may use again someday or you can sell it on Ebay at a discount and get a lot of you money back.
1:02:34 Seans intense look over your shoulder is how we are all studying this video. Thanks for another great tutorial. You save me time and money and I greatly appreciate it.
You're very welcome. Thanks for the comment.
Outstanding job coving this repair! Thank you! You also went into great detail to answer questions that many of us would be asking as you went along. I especially thank you for going into the detail of pressing all the components off the axle with the hydraulic press. I am going this route because the 4Runner is my only vehicle so, once it is apart, I cannot take my axles to a machine shop to do the press work and I certainly can't have a machine shop try again and again as I run the grease test. Couple questions, if you get a chance to see this thread...
1. What is the Press and Pull Sleeve Kit really needed for? Can't I use a Seal Drive kit to perform those functions? I didn't buy that kit.
2. Is the OTC Bearing Splitter Kit really needed? I bought a 3-4" Bearing Splitter by itself and I'll buy long bolts, and it saved me $60. I hope it works for me :)
3. I had the chance to buy a Harbor Freight 12 ton press for $130 or a 20 ton press for $190. I wanted the cheaper option but, once I looked at them both, I considered that maybe the 12 ton press is too small for the length of the axle. I bought the 20 ton press. Do you know if that is the case for 12 ton presses or the one from HF? Is that why you used a higher rated press, for the length of the axle?
4. Lastly, I don't understand exactly why you need or use the ABS Clean-Out and Cap. You have said that the bearing isn't under force when it seats properly. Shouldn't I be able to tap it into place with very little force? Maybe I missed something, but I'll watch again.
I just finished this job. To answer my own questions if it can help others...
1. The Press and Pull Sleeve Kit is nice for making space when pressing the bearing into the hub. However, it was not needed for my setup. I saved the money and got by without it. I used the old bearing to press the new bearing into place, with an improvised steel plate. I used the DuraSolid cylinder to press directly on the retainers to press them onto the axle (once with the bearing, once with the ABS ring). For removing the bearing, I bought a short length of 2" dia. PVC pipe and pounded on it.
2. No, the whole OTC Bearing Splitter kit is not needed. I'm sure it is nice to have those hardened stand-offs, but you can get by with the $25 splitter on Amazon and then buy some 5-6" 3/8" bolts with nuts/washers to mate up to the DuraSolid plate.
3. I think the 12 ton press from Harbor Freight would have been too short for the length of the axle on this vehicle. Also, the pressing power of the 20 ton made things go smoothly. I don't know if the 12 ton press could have done it as easily.
4. I don't know about the ABS Clean-Out and Cap.
The bearing was a very tight fit into my hubs. There was pressure the whole way as I pressed each one into the hub.
I improvised some of the tools and I saved myself almost $200. But, if you don't feel like making some of your tools, it would be reassuring to buy the right tools for the job.
You’re an absolute life saver. Thanks to you I have a functioning car to go get groceries before the stores start closing for quarantine.
Good to hear you were able to fix your rig using our video. It is getting pretty crazy out there with this virus scare. We are all sailing in uncharted waters right now. Stay safe and healthy.
Nice to see the under side of my 4Runner getting semi-famous!
phattyduck Hey Charlie, Since this repair is so common, I think your rig is going be seen by a whole lot of folks. Thanks again for allowing to use your 3rd Gen as the test subject for this repair. I've now actually done this job on two other ABS 3rd Gens and I have another one lined up whenever I get back from this fire in Ventura and Santa Barbara County. I just ask them for a donation to our party fund. We'll probably have another party in the spring. Maybe you'll drive down from SoCal.
Success! Changed my 04 tundra driver rear bearing, seal, switched the retainer for better sealing area. Bought the original tool off ebay. Took me 2 hrs total. Parts slid off easily, might be due to pre- soak. Fantastic result. Saved me $1900 at the dealer. My cost approx $650 in parts, will sell the tool later on (consider it rent)
Good job getting it done right. Happy Wrenching!
I haven't watched this yet, but is this the one most similar to my 04 Tundra Double Cab? (shares some parts with the Sequoia) I think I saw future Timmy comment that this generation 4 Runner is the most similar as opposed to the Gen1 Sequoia.
Thank you Timmy! I discovered your channel a while ago when i had a 2wd 2002 4 runner and was stationed in Fairfield Ca. I did a timing belt and a tundra brake upgrade thanks to your help. I then sold it to a father/son in san jose because i wanted to get a 4wd. I referred them to your videos as my step-by-step guide for the repairs and upgrades. I picked up a 100series for my 4wd and later before i left Ca i bought a 98 T100 3.4 5speed manual 4x4 for a daily driver (with almost 300k on it now). I felt comfortable buying it because i knew alot of your videos would be relevant to my maintenance ownership experience. I just discovered a leaking seal and i didn't want to buy a shop press/specialized tool. But ive since moved from California to Alabama and all of the independent mechanics local to me refused the job or dont work on imports. Im very grateful you posted this. I have all the specialty tools ordered (from your part 2 of this video) and i just picked up my 20ton press today. A quick mention to those of you trying to save a few bucks on oem parts . Partssoq.com can save you some big money- just beware that it usually comes from overseas and takes some time to get to you. Shipping rates add up there but i still usually save a significant amount. Thank you again for all your help. Ill be using your clutch video soon. Im both not exited and also looking forward to it at the same time.
Thanks for sharing all that Dan. I appreciate it. You're not alone when it comes to buying a vehicle because of the of the extensive information available for working on them. Others have told me that part of their decision to buy a 3rd Gen was because of our channel. That's always nice to hear. Good luck with the rear axle.seal and bearing job. Please be sure to read the comment I pinned (first comment you see) for updates on the repair. For the clutch job and set of hands certainly helps for the removal and reinstallation of the transfer case and transmission. Definitely get a buddy or two to help out. It will make it much easier for you. Finally, we do have some videos related to your 100 series like our 2UZ-FE Timing Belt Video. Sean has used Partsouq before. He has said the same thing. I get a deal at my local dealership and just buy from them for the convenience. Happy Wrenching Dan.
Another great and informative video, thanks Timmy! I'm experiencing the dreaded rear wheel wobble on my 1st gen Tacoma and if it turns out to be a bent axle/flange I will certainly be referencing this video as I undertake the repair.
You're very welcome Albert. Good luck with the repair.
@27:40 This is the content I came to see 😆 Planning to replace these parts soon, thanks again for the great tutorial and help. Cheers
My left side just started leaking.... 🙍🙁.... Good thing we have Timmy huh, thanks Timmy your videos are the best 👍
Maynor Larios you're welcome! Keep us posted with your repair! We want it to be successful!
This video is the shit. I have a T100 (w ABS) work truck with leaking rear seals and was going to pull my axles and take them to a local dealership, but now I think I am going to invest in the tools, experience, and knowledge thanks to your extremely detailed procedure. It will be one of the most involved jobs I have done to date, but I'm confident that taking it slow one step at a time following these precise instructions it will be fine. Thanks so much for posting!!!
Hey Alan, be sure to watch Part 2 because we introduce a better tool and share additional tips and tricks we've learned after doing this job over a dozen times. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html Good luck with job. Hope it goes smooth for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman So I have spent the past few days working on this. Duane's tool and your explicit instructions made the job a lot easier than I had anticipated with few hiccups, but it was time consuming as expected. I also had other things going on, plus the current situation everywhere and an earthquake for good measure. Had a noisy bearing in the differential so I replaced that too. There were some minor differences between the press I got and the one you use so we had to figure out height adjustments a couple of times but honestly the biggest pain in the ass of the whole thing was getting the brake lines back in lol. I also did wheel cylinders while I had it all apart, they are cheap and the truck has over 200k on it. Bled brakes but they still are not right. Pedal goes to the floor so I have to pump them then I guess it's the ABS activating they make a buzzing noise and get grabby/pulsate. It's hard to describe. Gonna try to adjust them and maybe try bleeding again but beyond that I don't know what to do or check, any advice?. They worked better covered in gear oil lol. It was the dirtiest repair I have ever done but am very pleased overall. It would have cost just as much or more to have someone else do the press work. Thanks again so much for the great tutorials.
@@alancapriotti4605 Hey Alan, glad you got the job done. In regards to your brakes, did you plug the lines when you disconnected them? The reason why I ask is because I'm thinking you could have made the bleeding more difficult by allowing a large amount of fluid to drain out of the system. Along the same line of questioning, did the master cylinder get emptied because the lines were able to drain for a long time? If the master cylinder emptied out completely, you will then have to bench bleed the master cylinder. If it didn't drain down all the way, then your problem is you still have air in the lines and your rear brakes probably need more adjusting too. Bleed the brakes again starting at the passenger side rear, then driver side rear, passenger side front and the driver side front. Bleed the lines excessively and keep rechecking the fluid level in the master cylinder so it doesn't run dry. For the adjusting, pull the parking brake over and over and over until you only get 7-9 clicks out of the e-brake handle. Doing the bleeding and brake adjusting should get your brakes feeling like normal again. Let me know how it goes for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I can't tell you how much I appreciate the personal replies. Do you take donations for doing this? I would be happy to buy you a beer or 6. Regarding my brakes: I did not cap the lines and lost some fluid, but did not know about bench bleeding the master cylinder. I had planned on pumping new, clean fluid through the system during this repair anyway as it was long overdue. I did not run the master cylinder empty though, I did keep an eye on that throughout the process. I adjusted the brakes and took it for another very local test drive. Pedal was much better but the ABS still did that weird buzzing pulsing thing, but not as bad. At this point I was out of daylight and figured I would bleed again this morning. I was sitting around and thought I would take a look at the FSM just to try and learn more about the ABS system on general principle. It said to check the ends of the sensor magnets for debris, which I had noticed and cleaned off a few times during the whole seal/bearing process. However, by the time I was reassembling everything I was anxious to get it back on the road (and it's a work truck I need) I didn't look very closely, doh. Since it was a lot faster and easier than going through another bleed, I pulled those and found some mank on them for sure. Wiped them both off real good and took a test run with a full trailer to the local dump. All good. Went out and did a decent cleanup (wet leaves and a lot of pine needles in the trailer) and drove home. Did not do that even once. I will be paying close attention over the next few days, but it appears to have been resolved. Thanks again!!!
@@alancapriotti4605 Hey Alan, glad you got it figured out. We do take donations. There's a tip jar link on bottom right corner of our channel photo. We decided to add the tip jar since people asked if they could donate like you have. But, you appreciating the videos and sharing your success story with us is payment enough. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy,
Thanks for the videos on how to replace the rear bearing.
I had to do this job because the back-plate on my brakes was so rusty it would not pass
inspection in the condition it was in. I also purchased the Axle puller/installer from Duane
that you recommended and it worked great. Thanks for the tool demo's it made the whole
process of doing this job go very smoothly.
Chris
You're very welcome Chris. Glad our video helped you get the job done and thanks for buying from Duane and not from one of the people selling a rip-off copy of his design. We appreciate you taking the time to comment.
Great vids! I just bought my daughter a 2000 4runner with 190K miles. Bought all the tools and OEM parts and didn't it myself. After all expenses, I probably saved $500. Thanks Tim
Thanks Guy. It feels pretty good to do this all on your own, doesn't it? Not to mention you gained some tools you can use for other repairs while still saving yourself a sizable chunk of money. You probably now know this repair better than most paid mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to comment and share your success story. Happy Wrenching!
Hands down the best video tutorial on these cars. Great work!
Thanks Mike. We appreciate the nice compliment. Be sure to watch Part 2 where we showcase a much better tool for the job. Also Mike, make sure you read the video descriptions and pinned comments. There are important updates shared.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do, thanks.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey Timmy, two years later and now both my rear axle seals seem to have gone out, both rear hubs are wet with gear oil.. 😬 Got a big job ahead of me.. Thankfully your videos will help me step by step. Also thank you for referencing that ST to use from Dan. Will let you know how it goes..
@Mike_44 Good luck with the job Mike. Be sure to watch Part 2 also and read the comment I pinned (1st comment you see) for updates on the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yes Sir, I saw them already. I'm also planning to add the diff. breather mod. later on to prevent this from happening again. Thank you.
I love how at the end of the video you can just tell everyone's spent. I know that feeling well on any car repair. Even with ridiculous amounts of tools they never go 100% smooth.
Hey David, you're the first to comment on this. Yeah, you're absolutely right. Some of these repairs and mods we've done have been marathons and crawling around on your back all day can definitely wear you out not to mention the mental fatigue that goes on with one of these jobs. When I watch the final edited version of the video, I can see how destroyed I look when I'm doing the closing statement.
Thanks for watching and Happy Wrenching!
I'm new to the 3G 4Runner scene and I'm rehabbing a pretty poorly treated '97 SR5 here in Minnesota. EVERY BOLT is rusted to hell and nothing is ever as clean and easy as it is in many of the repair how-to's on youtube because clearly most are done in Cali and the southwest. Something as simple as a brake caliper replacement becomes an all-day job unless you just anticipate removing everything up to the ABS line tee junction.
David Tesch I feel for ya. Doing automotive work on a vehicle with lots of rust would certainly take some of the fun out of it for me. Knowing I'm going to fight every fastener and possibly break off bolts and strip nuts would add a whole new level of frustration. Too bad there isn't some other solution for the roadways instead of salt to deal with icy roads. It sucks that vehicles that still have a ton of life left with the main drivetrain components end up being scrapped because the frame rusts out first.
Just completed the rear axle seal/bearing job. Had the shop flip the retainer and place it with 5mm of polished axle as you recommended. Did the rest of the job at home. Performed the sharpie test and the seal hit the retainer dead center! Thanks for saving me a bunch of money and time with your awesome videos! How about a rear main seal video??
Hey Brad, You're welcome and we're happy to hear our video helped you get the job done saving yourself a bunch of money in the process. We do have a 3 part video series of doing an automatic transmission replacement on Sean's rig. That is 97% of the job of replacing the rear main seal. The only thing you need to do further is remove the flex plate and replace the rear main seal. For this job, you wouldn't have to separate the transfer case from the transmission and you could maybe just keep it on your transmission jack and pull it back far enough from the engine so you could access the flex plate and rear main seal.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. I will check out the trans videos. My truck is a locked '99 Limited and is well maintained It has lots of off road mods and is my family adventure DD. It has been very reliable, but it has 331K! Oil consumption is minimal even with rear seal issue. The rear seal is about the only thing it needs and the leak is small, but leaks bother me. Would you mess with the rear seal if it was yours? Thanks again!
@@libertyman3717 If the leak is small, I wouldn't worry about it then. That's a lot of labor. Just add oil when necessary and drive it like you stole it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Will do. Thanks man!
I did this job last weekend on my '98 4Runner, and it went relatively problem free thanks to your video, Tim! A couple of things I can add to the video:
Check that the new seal is square after driving it in. I just used the depth guage on the bottom of the calipers to measure from the ground face of the axle housing to the seal ring in a few spots. Both seals required squaring by 1/8" or so up after initially tapping them in.
Since the studs have to be pounded out anyway to pull the ABS tone ring off I went straight to using bolts to affix the press plate to push the axle through the outer retaining ring and bearing. The studs went back in after pressing everything back on.
I removed the brakes since they were saturated in diff oil. However, even if you do keep them on it is easy to remove the parking brake bellcrank to get it out of the way of pressing. Loosen the two bolts, slide the cable off of the bellcrank hook, and it pulls straight off the backing plate.
Anyway, thanks again for the great vid, and keep 'em coming!
With the driving in of the axle seals, I went by sound first and then visualized that the seal was sitting square. The sound of the hammer driving in the seal makes a distinct change of tone when it's bottomed out. Sort of tink, tink, tink then clunk. When the tone changes, you know you've bottomed out. Then I just look to see it's even with the slight bevel of the axle housing.
I'm not sure I understand you did anything different than we did with the studs after removing the inner retainer and ABS tone ring. We pulled the serrated studs back in place to attach the press plate but unfortunately had the mishap of the threads giving way. We were forced to use the longer bolts we bought at Home Depot to finish the press work. Since I had that one plate machined, the OEM studs work perfectly to press the axle through the bearing and outer retainer.
I've now done this axle seal job 6 times and I guess I just choose to keep the bell crank on while doing the press work because I have all the press sleeves to make it work. I finish the axle seal job by tearing down the brakes, cleaning everything up really well and putting new shoes on.
Glad the video helped you out. Dealerships and private shops charge an arm and a leg for this repair and then often times screw it up. The fact that you've successfully done this job on your own makes you an expert in this repair and more knowledgeable about it than most professional mechanics. Congratulations on a job well done!
Happy Wrenching!
Timmy The Toolman I guess I should elaborate on my stud comment. We didn't do anything different; we just followed your advice to use bolts. I was just under the misconception that using bolts would require more work (i.e. pounding the studs out multiple times) than having the plate machined . I was pleasantly surprised that we were able to do all of the press work using bolts, so the studs didn't have to go back in until it was time to grease test.
Anyway, thanks again for the great vids. You've done Yota drivers a huge service!
Got it. Since I got that plate machined, I just pull the serrated bolts back in after pulling off the ABS tone ring and inner retainer to get ready to press the axle shaft out. The machining of the plate saves me some time because I don't have to remove the OEM studs and replace them with the longer bolts. It's just one less step.
I'm going to be doing this job for another local guy in a few days. I think I'm going to follow your lead and just remove the bell crank and see if this makes doing the press work much easier. Thanks for sharing this info and your success with the job. Happy Wrenching!
Awesome video! Precise and to the point.
Glue 2 small magnets to the top of your press.Then you can lay your jack handle on top and it won't roll off. Its right there when you need it.
Glad you like the video and thanks for the magnet idea. Using magnets is a such a simple solution to having a place to put that jack handle.
Great video. Last guy who did a bearing didn't watch it and it leaked. I put a new seal after flipping the outer retainer. 4.5 to 5.0 mm worked great.
Good job doing it right. This job is screwed up by many shops and DIYers.
Outstanding! Thank you for taking the extra time required to create this video.
You're welcome. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Timmy The Toolman, I'm from Concord, CA, but live in Utah now. I really enjoy working on my 05' Tacoma. I just finished installing 2010-14 4Runner front calipers, and rotors. They just barely fit in my 07' FJ TRD, 17" wheels. 😊
What part of Utah? I've been to Utah many times to mountain bike. The area around Zion is awesome near the town of Hurricane. I've ridden at the Thunder Mountain area. Moab is great and so is Park City. The thing I don't particularly care about in Utah is the liquor laws. They make it difficult to find good strong beers.
Man I can not explain to how helpful this Video is. Thank you for taking the time and adding all the detail I look forward to replacing mine here soon and with this video will help me get it done and my wife can’t complain lol
You're very welcome. Make sure to watch part 2 because we share a better tool to use for the job and give updated information that will help you. Please, please, please read the video descriptions and the comments we pinned (1st comment you see because there's very helpful information in both areas). th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you and I will watch the next video when I get off I’m actually a technician have been for 14 years and love special tools especially when it’s mine lol again thank you
@@159joejoe You're welcome. If you're going to buy the special tool showcased in Part 2, please be sure to use the link we provide in the video description. Our buddy Duane designed the tool at his home in Omaha, Nebraska and then some crooks sent his design to China and now there's dozens of Ebay sellers selling a ripoff copy of his design. These a-holes even stole the pictures I provided Duane for his Ebay listing. To put it mildly, I hate thieves!
Thanks so much for this video! Just completed the repair myself and all went fairly smoothe asides from me forgetting to take off the snap ring before trying to push the axle out. 4 new unstripped bolts later and I was back in business. Wanted to give people a few ideas that I had when I did this repair. Instead of pressing in the bearing I simply tapped it in gently with the race and bearing driver set that is used to seat the seal (rented from O'Reilly). Additionally I did not want to buy a 100 dollar press sleeve kit so I went to Home Depot and bought a pvc coupler for 1.25 (could have been 1.5 inch, just bring the axle puller tube and match the end size) and it worked great and cost me about a buck fifty.
You're welcome. Good job getting the job done.
One more thing if you don't mind me asking. I bought the same puller you have linked in your video but it did not fit over my axle. I measured the inside diameter of the axle puller and it measured 1.58 inches and the puller is advertised at 1.5 inches. I bought all new bearing retainers and they were the same size as my old ones and I was able to get them pressed on the axle okay which leads me to believe that my axle should be the correct size and not some swap (I bought my rig used a few months back) so I am wondering if you had any thoughts as to why the puller wouldn't quite make it down to bolt directly to the hub. I ended up having to just buy longer bolts to reach down to the hub for the press work. Thanks again for all your awesome videos
I have to ask if you watched the entire video? At around play time 30:30, I discuss that you have to pop the axle shaft down against a block of wood to knock the bearing back fully into it's case so you can get the tool bolted up to the axle. Also in the video, I show how I altered the tool so the OEM bolt lengths will work better with the tool plate. I basically milled out 5mm of material around the bolt holes and I also used a round file on one side of the threads so it would fit better.
If you didn't pop the axle shaft into the ground and/or didn't altered the plate like I did, you pretty much would have had to use longer bolts to make it work. The Durasolid tool works decent, but it could have been made better.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have watched the video more times than I should probably admit. I'm a bit of a planner and made sure I could follow your video step by step as to avoid any possibility of me making my vehicle worse. I was running into problems when getting the puller over the part of the axle that begins to get larger before you even hit the polished section. Even with the axle stated fully after reseating it with the tap on the wood there was no way to even get the tube slid over the axle far enough to screw it into the blue plate bolted on.
I hope that all makes sense, I'm doing my best to use the correct words for different parts to paint the picture of what was going on.
Edit: I had to go do a sanity check before I made a fool of myself here and measured the ID of the axle puller and the ID of the old retainers and in fact the ID of the axle puller was 1.56 inches and the ID of the old retainers were 1.575 which would make sense as to why I couldn't get it all the way over the axle down to the hub
@TheBar2z Ok, I understand now. Please do me a favor and contact Durasolid and tell them what you're experiencing with their tool. They must have changed something with their manufacturing or possibly changed suppliers of their pipe stock. It's important they know this because this is a flaw that needs to be addressed. Please let me know what they say when you contact them. They really should send you a replacement with the correct internal diameter.
I like how in-depth you go! Very informative!
Glad you appreciate the detail we provide in this video. Be sure to watch Part 2 as well because we showcase a much better tool to use for the job. Also, be sure to read the video descriptions and pinned comments because there's important information in both areas.
Tim, thanks for the reply!
Update: I was able to replace the bearings with Nachi bearings, oem tone rings, and 1st design inner seals with the double lip. We used the MCSpecial tool. Man it was easy. We did mar the plastic housing on the ABS sensors trying to pry them out with channel lock pliers and PB Blaster. They still work. Once the sensors are out, the seal was easy to remove. Just remove the axle first, remove the sensor, then place a screwdriver in the sensor hole, and pry out the seal. Not much effort is needed to pry it out. This way no damage to the seal surface. Plus driving in the seal is easier since the sensor has a magnet and will pull the new seal magnetically and make it a bear to tap in. The ebay aftermarket inner seals had the same black rubber like coating on the seal-all the way around (similar to a GM rear main seal). We taped them in with the 72mm MADDOX seal driver. Any edges still present we just tapped it the 68mm. Not much tapping need. Since we used 1st gen design seals we replaced the inner spacer with the bevel pointing inward, 5mm(driver) and 5.5mm(passenger) of shiny axle metal showing. The grease test showed grease was pushed all the way to the tone ring, so we were happy. 650mi at 70mph later, no leaks so far. I always buy OEM but I didn't want the new OEM re-design seal, and I couldn't find NOS seals, so I went with aftermarket seals.
Thanks again Tim!!!!!
Glad the repair worked out. You're the first person I've heard pry the seal out via the ABS sensor hole. Interesting. If the grease test showed the grease pushed all the way back to the tone ring, that's not centered on the retainer. You would want the grease pushed back to the center of the polished surface of the retainer. But with the measurements you gave, I would assume you were centered on the retainer. Maybe you misspoke. Do you have a link to the aftermarket seals you went with?
Thanks for the great video. Did my 2000 tundra, getting the longer bolts ahead of time really helped. Now I have the tools to do the other side if it goes out. Keep up the great work. Thanks
You're welcome Mai. Glad our video helped you get the job done. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Tim, I watched the video as I mostly DYI from my youth. 73 2004 Toyota went to shop as I did not have the time and it was winter. Still leaked the owner corrected the repair. Upon replacing the rear brakes I noticed a film of diff fluid. So I checked the breather first. Clogged it was. R&R the leak in axel stopped.
Now last fall it started again. Rusted break line with no spare prevented repair. Last week, decided to
take it down and replace every part connected to axel as you did on Charlie's 4 runner. Holy wahhh
the sensor was froze in, rotated but would come out. Use a block of wood and truck jack to remove the axel. Forget the 5 mm as the last person working on that side left off the inner retainer above the ABS.
the restraint for sealing the diff fluid was the outer seal. Go figure..... I was going to have my only source
for repair install the bearing ABS GEAR , RETAINER, AND INNER AND OUTER SEALS. MAYBE NOT.
FYI I ALWAS CLEAN UP THE HUB AND BRAKE DRUM INNER RING FOR EASY ON AND OFF. COAT LIGHTLY WITH ANTI SEIZE does not get on brakes. All my parts are Toyota oem. Really appreciated the
honesty of your video. BTW 299K and 297 on original plugs......still have starter and generator. Michelin tires LTX A2 112K 9/32 tread.
Hey Jerry, that sounds like quite the ordeal. Glad you finally got it all fixed and our video helped you out.
Thanks Timmy! My 2002 4runner doesn't need this job "yet". But that doesn't stop me from obsessively planning on doing it. I'm in the Rust Belt and can count on pretty much every bolt being seized with rust. My backing plates are turning to dust, so this is a job I will do when I replace them.
You're very welcome. Be sure to watch Part 2 and read the comment we pinned for further information regarding this job. Thanks for the comment.
WOw. I have heard about TIm and his videos. Very impressed and hope I never need to takele a leaking axle seal!
Thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it! If you ever do have to do this job, which there's a very good chance you will if you keep the rig long enough, be sure to watch Part 2 as well and also read the comment we pinned in each video (1st comment you see). The pinned comments have additional information and updates not included in the videos. Also look at the video description for the parts list and suggested tools. Happy Wrenching!
th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this well-made and well edited video. This video allowed my father and I to fix my leaking axel all the way on the other side of the world. 🌎
Victoria Australia🇦🇺 .
Much appreciated, and god bless🙌
You're very welcome. We love our Australian Toyota Brothers. We're glad our video helped you out. Happy Wrenching!
a tip I learned for installing bearing races is to take the old race after you pound it out with a drift and cut a slit out of one side then use that to press in the new race. because it's cut on one side you just squeeze it and it comes right out after you have the new race seated in. I know you weren't doing anything with a race here but the way you used the old bearing to press in the new one reminded me of this trick.
Thank for sharing this tip.
You have no idea how much u helped me out God Bless Americans you are the man Thanks from Texas
Ricardo Botello You're very welcome Ricardo. We're glad our video helped you out. Thank you for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching my Texan Brother!
By far the most informative and precise video. Thank you, thank you.
Xavier Garcia You're welcome Xavier. A lot of shops and people make mistakes with this repair so we wanted to make the video as comprehensive as possible to give them the best chance to be successful. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
That old Toyota factory service manual brought back memories of my Previa, the Toyota manuals are fantastic
Yes they are.
Man you make the absolute best videos.
Thanks Ken, we really appreciate that.
awesome video Tim that beer was well worth it... we need a tour of your garage!
If I keep on buying tools, there won't be any room to pull a vehicle in. I bought a second tool box and it's already full. But, most of the space is taken up by bicycles.
Holy cow the way you explain stuff is awesome! Video is better than fantastic!
Glad you appreciate the detail we offer and thanks for the nice compliment. Be sure to watch Part 2 where we showcase a much better tool for the job made by a guy in the U.S. Also, please read the video descriptions and pinned comments because we offer very helpful information in both spots. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks Timmy just the little extra info I needed. Keep em coming. Loving the videos
You're welcome Lance. Glad our video could help you out and thanks for taking the time to comment. And yes, we're going to keep on cranking out the videos.
Happy Wrenching!
Another nice video Tim!
I can confirm that the lisles tool "does" work to get the seal out. It does NOT reach though by default in any setting on the tool. What you need to do is to grab some pliers and pry the axle seal towards you a bit. That will make it so the lisles tool can reach the seal now since it's so deep in there. From there, you just pop her out. (Hint, put a rag on the other side so you don't damage the housing (which isn't a big deal on this spot).
Good to know Minh. Thanks for sharing this information.
Thank you for the "great video" I have no fear when I see it before hand!
Hi, Timmy The Toolman. I'm learning more and more every time I watch one of your videos!!! The AC video was really helpful to us as well. THANK YOU! Your party looked like a real good time too.
Hey Adam, great to hear you're learning a lot from our videos. You're welcome and thanks for taking the time to comment. The parties are always a good time. Happy Wrenching!
I went to 4mm of polished axle then did a grease test. The axle wouldn't go all the way in because the abs ring was hitting the seal. I pressed the race another 2mm to a total of 6mm of polished axle then it worked. I think the abs ring should be pressed on an additional 4-6mm apart from the race just to center it up with the sensor hole and to make sure it doesn't rub against the seal . Great video!
There is a very good chance the bearing wasn't all the way seated in the bearing case when you performed the grease.test. I mentioned in my pinned comment that a bearing that's not fully seated will throw off the grease test. There's no way at 4mm of polished axle showing you should have been able to hit the ABS tone ring against the seal. When you did the grease test, did you just slide the axle in until it was flush with the housing or did you actually bolt it up tight? If the bearing wasn't fully seated in the bearing case, tightening the nuts would have drawn the bearing to it's fully seated position in the case. I honestly think at 6mm polished axle showing you might be closer to the bevel than you'd like. I recently pulled an axle on a guys rig that I did the axle seal job on around 6 months ago and the witness mark the seal made on the inner retainer was closer to the bevel than I though it should have been. That's why I now suggest people first do a grease test at 3-4mm of polished axle showing, and then make adjustments from there. I also know there's slight differences in the axles and the amount of polished axle showing could end up being different.
I hate to say this, but I think it might be prudent to pull the axle and perform the grease test again just to be sure. At 6mm, I have no doubt the seal is riding on the polished shoulder of the retainer. But, if it's riding close to the bevel, over time as the bearing ages and develops play, it might cause you to have a seal failure sooner than if you have the seal more centered on the retainer.
Should have had the bearing in the freezer to shrink it before putting it in, makes it go in easier.
Thanks for putting out these videos Tim!
We've heard about the freezer trick. It's always an option to consider.
Great video as always! Austin Niemela has a great video on how he created a press tool for the bearings.
Lots of guys spend the time building their own axle tool and that's great if that's what they want to do. I checked out Austin's video and he's done something similar that a lot of guys before him have done. But, what his tool doesn't do is provide an easy way for removing the inner retainer and ABS tone ring like our Buddy Duane's axle toolset does. Duane has been making these toolsets out of his home in Omaha Nebraska for the past 4.5 years. For the time this guy Austin spent on fabbing up his own tool, he simply could have ordered the tool Duane sells for $127. So kudos to Austin for making his own tool, but it's not better than the one Duane sells for a very affordable price.
We feature the Duane's toolset in this video: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html
Here's a link to Duane's tool set: ebay.us/lhibma
I commented just before bearing dropped in! not a press fit got it, thanks!
Awesome video , tip , put the bearings in the freezer until you need them and the usually can be pushed in by hand .
Hey John, glad you like the video. I have heard about the freezer trick before but I haven't tried it yet. People mention the same thing in regards to seals. I take it you're talking about putting the bearing into the bearing case on the backing plate. My new trick is to use an ABS clean-out to press the bearing into the case. I mention this in a pinned comment. It works really well. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great video. Very informative. I have a 01 tacoma and am have an issue. I do not have a press and had a local shop do the press work for me. They pressed the retainer on too far and it never make contact with the seal. Their solution is to just press another retainer on. My axil is a ABS axil but with out the electronics. Actual non ABS unit, with the ABS AXil housing. The measurements look like this should work great. Do you for see any issues with having a extra retainer pressed on the axil?
No, I don't see any issue with it, but because they pressed the other retainer and ABS tone ring on too far, you won't be able to pull the parts off with a tool like we used if the job ever needs to be done again. They will have to be cut off.
It never ceases to amaze me how many shops don't know what the f*ck they are doing when it comes to this job.
Thanks for the advice. I’m going to press the extra retainer on for now and deal with cutting the extra one off down the road. Keep up with the great informative videos!
@@orenparry2426 You're welcome Oren. Good luck with your rig.
Very good job description. Best step by step video I've ever seen.....thank you. From KrazyK
Billings Mt
Thanks for the nice compliment Kevin. We appreciate it. You should watch out Part 2 video for this repair where we showcase a new tool that is much better for doing rear axle work on Toyota/Lexus SUVs and Trucks. You should also read the comment we pinned (1st comment you see) for updates and further information on the job. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GWAEYFiCUoySzhK3
You and your team are an amazing resource! Thank you]
We appreciate people taking the time to leave comments like this! May the Toyota force be strong with you!
- Sean
Great work on this video and the good links to the needed tools.
Thanks David. Glad you like the video and found it helpful.
Which seal driver did you use the otc or the hf kit noticed when you finally hammered the seal in looked like ya used the otc if ya did use the otc what seal driver you use that worked the best I have the same otc kit @timmy the toolman
I used the OTC kit. Those plastic seal drivers from Harbor Freight aren't the greatest and weren't getting the job done. I can't remember which size I used from the OTC kit but it's the one in the kit that fits the diameter of the seal closest. You don't want to use a driver that's too small that will end up creasing the seal and pushing the sealing lip inboard. The strongest point of the seal is on the outside shoulder. So, there's a driver in that OTC kit that's the obvious choice.
@@TimmyTheToolman yeah I have had problems with the seals concaving and realized the seal I got had a rubber outer edge instead of the smooth metal machined edge at it was 2000s to big and it creased on me so had to by better seals got them from toyota doing job again appreciate the reply timmy
@@TimmyTheToolman I noticed in the otc kit one driver is slitley small and the next step up is slitley a mm or so bigger then the seal
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Use the one that slightly bigger. That's the one I have used for all the jobs I've done. You might think the larger driver would impede you from fully driving the seal all the way into the axle housing but I don't think that's the case. If you use the one that's smaller than the outer diameter of the seal, that will dramatically increase your chances of damaging the seal while you're driving it in. That's my opinion.
Very important question about the video- is the bearing play you showed at 20:53 normal or excessive? Once the bearing is replaced will it exhibit this play? I took my axles out and both are leaking oil but have not got on the brake shoes. Both exhibit this play. Many of us dont have axle seals leaking but are trying to determine what play is excessive before replacing the bearings. Thank you -I and many appreciate your videos.
Even new bearings will exhibit some play when the backing plate is moved like I did in the video at that time stamp. When the axle is bolted to the axle, you shouldn't detect movement. Hard to say if what you have is too much. Normally to test for excessive bearing play the axle and wheel are attached to the vehicle. You simply grab the wheel and the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions and push and pull with opposing force in an attempt to detect any movement. If you feel any movement, the bearing should be replaced.
If you're thinking of just replacing seals, you should repack the bearings with a high quality, high temp bearing grease. You can lift up the dust seal of the bearing with a tiny flat blade screwdriver to add grease. You would also have to address the proper mating of the new seal with the inner retainer by adjusting the position or orientation of the retainer (flipping it). If you watch the beginning of the video, I cover this. Just replacing the seal and doing nothing else will probably generate a poor result.
Several years ago I changed the front and rear bearings on my 2000 4 Runner. I chose option #2. The cost of the press work at the shop was about the price of the HF 20 ton press. Now I have the press anyway, but it does get in the way. Helps to add second piece of angle steel to the legs and some heavy duty castors.
Yeah, the press is a little wobbly. It wouldn't hurt to add some extra support down at the base to stabilize it better.
Super helpful! just finished this job. Thanks!
awesome video with a lot of detailed information
Thanks. Be sure to watch Part 2 as well and read the video descriptions and comments we pinned. There's lots more helpful information shared you don't want to miss out on.
Thanks for all the info. I ended up making my own tool. With scrap metal and work out very detailed video
You're welcome. That's awesome you were able to make your own tool. One day I'll learn how to weld and maybe be able to make my own custom stuff too. Happy Wrenching.
Thank you for making video. The OEM part numbers alone helps a ton
You're welcome Justin. I just learned though that the 2001 and 2002 have a different bearing than the 1996-2000 3rd Gen 4runners. Look at the video description and I list the part numbers there.
I got a question. I have the heads of my 4x4 2000 5spd 4runner. over heated when the radiator failed(cracked behind fan shroud). I got a valvejob done and resurfaced the heads. bolted them on, did a leakdown test to find #2 & 4 cylinder still very low(at 85psi on the inlet of the leakdown tester I was seeing 25psi on the outlet) but no longer venting through the exhaust or intake valves so bad rings need to remove those pistons. What do you thing will be easier removing driveline ,front diff and oil pan or proceed to pull out engine? only thing is I really want to avoid having to pull out the trans/transfer case etc. Just curious what your opinion would be since your familiar with these rigs
Hey Justin, it could be bad rings on those 2 cylinders but it could be something else. #1, if it's bad rings, when the cylinder is pressurized, you should be able to hear air escaping from the oil fill cap, PCV valve or even the oil dipstick tube. I'd redo the leak down test in both those cylinders and see if you're hearing air escaping from any of the areas I mentioned. If not, there's a chance the air is escaping between the two cylinders or into the coolant channels. If you take your radiator cap off and see bubbles, the head gasket isn't sealing and you're losing pressure into the coolant channels. If you don't see bubbles, then there's a very good possibility that you're leaking between the cylinders. Cylinders #2 and #4 are next to each other. When you do the leak down test in either cylinder, the pressure could be leaking into the cylinder next door.
I now own a cylinder compression tester and leak down tester but I have yet to use it. I was thinking of making a video of doing a compression test of the cylinders on my rig. All the advice I gave you above is from reading and not from personal experience. But, I did quite a bit of reading on the subject so I believe I understand it pretty well.
I've never pulled an engine on one of these rigs or any other rig for that matter. But, if I were going to do work on the lower half of an engine, I'd just pull the engine and work on it while it's on a stand. Since you have a manual transmission and the input shaft slides through the clutch and flywheel, I'm pretty sure you'd want to pull the transmission out to get the engine out.
Great video, Lots of good info. Have been debating on doing this on my 2002 Sequoia ( bought it new, has 230k). Since I pulled the axle myself and took it to my local Toyota dealership here in Milledgeville, Georgia. Was Shocked to get a quote ( parts and labor) for $725.00 with the axle removed and cleaned up. Want to do the other side as well, With the cost of the bearing puller tool and the press, I would still save hundreds of dollars by doing it myself.
Dealership Service Departments can be a huge rip-off. You could also check around for local machine shops that could do the press work for you. You just want to make sure they are familiar with these axles and that they will be pulling the parts off rather than cutting them off. There's been plenty of horror stories of people saying a machine shop scored there axle shaft with a cutting wheel. If you pull the parts off, you can reuse all 4 retainers and both ABS gears. This will save you around $150 in parts. Read the video description where I explain how you can save money on parts.
If you like wrenching, a press is a nice tool to have. I've used my Harbor Freight 20 ton press lots of times now. The specialty axle tool is the hard one but you can always sell it on Ebay or Craigslist and get some of you money back if you don't want to keep it.
Thanks again, Timmy The Toolman. Had been sitting on the fence about doing this myself, but after watching your video the decision was easy. The axle tool is already in the mail and will be picking up the press later this week. plan on doing the work next week. Still, don't understand the negative comments people have left, have watched a few TH-cam videos before I saw yours. By far this is the most informative.
Glad to hear you're tackling this job yourself and using our video as a reference.
In regards to negative comments, I've learned you can have the most detailed and informative video regarding a job and still not please everyone. There's also just haters out there, whether it's other TH-camrs that don't like the fact we're having success with our channel or it's just jerks who'll give us a thumbs down regardless of how good of a job we do with a video. We can't do anything about people who give a thumbs down for one of our videos but we do respond to negative comments if we feel there's a chance to educate them and educate anyone else that's reading their comment. Some comments are just way out of line and then those people's comments are blocked permanently from our channel.
Seriously , I don't know why people can leave negative reviews, maybe constructive criticism, Timmah says it himself (i'm not a pro mechanic) but he explains his mistakes and makes corrections in the video's. Timmah has helped me on numerous repairs on my runners. I'm hoping to get out to his next sick mod BBq if humanly possible to say thanks in person
Hey Tim, great videos. I did this repair about a year ago. Took the axle to Toyota to have new parts pressed on and its been leaking again for a few months. Im going to do the work myself this time with a buddies press. Can I reuse retainer's and ABS ring since those parts are new and replace bearing and seal only?
If you want to reuse the retainers, swap the positions. Put the one that the seal was riding on against the bearing and put the one that was against the bearing where it will mate up with the seal. The seal lip does wear into the retainer minutely and that's why I'm suggesting to swap the positions. The ABS gear can be reused as well.
So yeah, just the seals and bearings. You might want to replace those o-rings at the end of axle housing too.
Great vidio, easy to understand , Ist time watching ! I really really enjoyed it....
Great to hear. Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for the videos you have been super helpful with me working on my 04 tocoma. 1 question tho do you know the part number for the studs you ripped the threads off of? I can’t seem to find them and I broke one trying to get it off the truck. Thank you again
BOLT/STUD - (FOR REAR AXLE BEARING CASE)
90114-10002
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you!
Hey Timmy, is this something that needs to be fixed asap? Gear oil is spilling all over my right rear tire and the left side is showing signs aswell but not as bad as the right side. I'm planning to remove the axles myself and give them to my mechanic, but money is tight at the moment especially since its nearing the holidays. I'm planning to have it done by the first or second week of January. And thank you for your content :)
As long as you're keeping your differential gear oil topped off, you have some time. The one issue that can occur is your brake shoes may very well be coated in gear oil which will negatively affect your braking. The other thing is the brake shoes will wick up the gear oil and start to swell. If it goes on long enough, the shoes can start to drag in the drum and then you're pretty much at the point you're going to have to do something about it.
Timmy, watched it yesterday. Kickass video. Most of them out there have you cutting the abs gear and retainer ring off and then beating the bearing out and installing new bearing by pressing in on the new bearings inner race. Not good. yeah, you can also take your axles to a machine shop and let them fk them up doing the replacement or you can bite the bullet, get the proper tools and do it correctly. $190 shipped for the durasolid axle remover really hurt though. That was more than the 20 ton press. Absolutely best video i have seen for doing 3rd gen. axle bearing replacement and i have watched plenty of them.
james koecher We're glad you liked the video James. Yeah the Durasolid tool is a little pricey but it pays for itself in one job, at least in my area. I helped a guy the other day do his axle seal job when he told me the cheapest shop he could find wanted $150 per side to do the press work. One shop wanted $300 per side. The guy gave me some money to thank me for the help. Now that you have the press and the special tool, maybe you could do the same and help some others out with the job saving them some money and you gain some in return. Just remember the limitations of the tool and either alter that plate like I did so the bolt threads stick out further or use longer bolts to press the axles out of the bearing. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Timmy, as always, Great vídeo. I need to replace the axle seals since the drum is full of grease or oil, I did not know about this problem until I was checking the spare tire and I could see that the drum was full of grease, there is no noise or any sympton. How can I know that should to replace the bearings and not only the seals? Thanks Timmy!
The gear lube has been seeping through your bearing. That doesn't mean your bearing is bad now but when I did my 1995 T100 I could tell there was slop in the bearing, 200,00 miles go figure. I could not find anyone to press mine off so I fought with it with 12 ton HF press. Getting the bearing retainer sleeve off was the worse part. I ground through it with a dermal type tool. I'll do the other side but you need a lot of tools to rig up your press if you don't all the nice tools Timmy has.
Master mechanic. Respect!
Neither Sean or I are Master Mechanics. We're just DIYers. If you're referring to the TH-cam sign I hang in my garage, it's meant as a joke. There's no such think as a TH-cam Master Mechanic
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS! Just debating whether I want to do the pressing stuff. What type of grease are you using in that little grease can? Thanks again!
It's a grease gun I bought a long time ago at a bicycle shop. The brand name is Dualco. I did a quick search on Amazon and this is what I came up with:
www.amazon.com/DUALCO-METAL-GREASE-GUN-PACK/dp/B015RV444E/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518072721&sr=1-2&keywords=dualco+grease+gun&dpID=51K0BPLe8nL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
my axle seal was bad enough that the brakes were soaked in oil. I thought Toyota was silly to have gaskets between the axle flange and brake drum. I was wrong. if that gasket is in there, and you lose a seal, an oil slinger on the back side of the flange captures the oil with centrifugal force and it migrates out a hole between the wheel studs. it will oil up the tire and things, but keep the oil from soaking the brakes. well worth making sure it's in there !
Yeah, I've seen that seal in parts schematics but have never seen one on any Toyota or Lexus I've ever worked on. You are right that the axle flange gasket would help keep the gear oil out of the brakes.
Thanks for that.
Thanks for the reply, I found the magic number for me was 1.475" from the top of the bearing to the top of the tone ring. Put my seal dead center with the bevel down. My axle polished surface is also slanted higher and lower on one side and ended up 7.50 mm for dead center. Axles surface do vary a little and so do the seal lip. Thanks again
I have also noticed the polished surface is a little slanted. Approximately 1mm difference between opposing side. That 7.5mm measurement sounds very high to me but if you say it's good, then it's good. I just find it odd that I've done around 9 sets of these axles and pretty much found 5mm of polished axle showing was about right. I did the grease test on every set too. Happy Wrenching!
Thanks for the video guys. Do you remember if you drove the new inner seal into the axle housing with the Pittsburgh (black) press kit or the OTC (silver) press kit?
The video doesn’t show which one actually drove the seal in. I just damaged my new seal with a press kit from AutoZone that didn’t have a good sized press disc.
We used the OTC kit with the metal silver disks. There's one in that kit that fits the diameter of the seal very well. A link to that kit is in the video description.
You should definitely do standup in your spare time! Nice video though!
I'm glad you enjoy the humor and the tech we share in the video. Thanks for the comment!
Timmy, I LOVE YOUR VIDEO!!! im assuming its the same for a tacoma. Do you have a method for the front wheel bearing? I am a lost to take it off. Thanks!
Long Yang we do! Check out our other video on a manual hub swap th-cam.com/video/TZ2sOfVrnhU/w-d-xo.html .
Hi Tim, just another update. Well the driver's side started to leak. I went ahead and ordered the older style seal. I took her apart and found the aftermarket spacer that the seal rides on walked itself OUT of place. I removed the shaft and something looked odd. Where's the last spacer?? It was still sitting in the seal!!!! I have a NOS OEM spacer. I made some measurements. The aftermarket spacer is 40.02mm I.D. the OEM is 39.93mm I.D. Going to go to my friend's and press the OEM spacer on. Going to have to replace the seal as well since I'm not sure if the seal is distorted now. SMH. Still love this truck. Almost 314K miles and still running strong!
I've never heard of that happening. I've heard of aftermarket retainers causing tools to bend and break because the force to remove them was much more than it would take to remove an OEM retainer. Now I guess they make them too big. That's one of the big issues with aftermarket parts is the quality control.
Fantastic video , you covered every possibility with awesome detail. Step by step with crystal clear instructions. Thank you for your time and effort.
You're welcome Ken. I missed your comment. I usually respond much quicker. Thanks for taking the time to comment. We appreciate it.
In your opinion, which I value highly, should I replace my axel seals and bearings before I have an issue as preventative maintenance? I have no issues currently. Or save the money and do it when needed? I plan to do the rear brakes soon.
My truck only has 86k miles but it’s 22 years old.
As long as the seals aren't leaking and the bearing don't have play or are making noise, I wouldn't do it. You can pull the ABS sensors and look into the axle housing so verify if the seals are holding. If they are showing signs of letting gear oil past, then I'd do the job.
@@TimmyTheToolman thanks Tim. I watch your videos daily. You’re a huge help and have responded to me multiple times on old videos. Do you have a Venmo or PayPal? I’d like to buy you a beer/coffee.
I found your “tip jar”. Not sure if you have any merchandise but I would love to get a sticker of your logo for my truck.
Hey Timmy, first off thank you and Sean so much. I'm not a mechanic and it's only because of your vids and nostalgia of seeing the place I where I was born, that I can work on my rig confidently. About to purchase a press, 12 T is good enough to move all of our parts yes? HF has same setup as yours with 12 T and it's a bit cheaper.
Hey Rob, the special tool we now recommend that we feature in Part 2 of this repair won't fit in between the cross member of that 12 ton press. I think Duane who makes the tool did make one that will fit the 12 ton press but you'll need to look on his Ebay page and find out. You can also send him a message to find out. But, the 20 ton press isn't much more money and is way better in my opinion. If you ever want to do front wheel bearings, I don't know if the the 12 ton press can handle it. The 20 ton press is well worth the extra expense in my opinion.
@@TimmyTheToolman That settles it then sir. As I regaurd you as the DIY king of maintenance for our vehicles; already purchased from Donald so 20T it is. Thanks again for ALL of your efforts and quick reply!
@@robmartin2466 You're welcome Rob. Good luck with the job.
You just saved me some money....I pulled rear axles off a 2002 4runner with front end damage.
And was going to rebuild these and install them on my 2000 4runner. I was about to order bearings for a 2000 but now I will go with 2002.
I wonder why they changed.....
No clue why Toyota decided to change the bearing design. Honestly, it might not matter but it's better to play it safe and use the correct bearings for your year axles. Glad our video helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman it does matter. I dived into it this morning.
Loook at the inner axle shafts between 1996-2000 and then compare to 2001-2002. I posted the part numbers between each on the Toyota-4runner.org this morning.
May be worth spreading that knowledge
@@cameronp5728 Ok, good to know. Thanks for sharing that there is a difference between the axle shafts.
@@TimmyTheToolman yes sir no prob. Thanks for the video. Knowledge is power!
Doing this job on my 96 limited with ABS. Luckly, i have an MTS test frame at my disposal so i can precisely press the bearings and retainers. Will the ABS gear go back on easy? What is the likelihood that my oil seal is leaking because of a bent axle? (I haven't done any rock crawling or anything crazy, no bad pot hole acccidents either)
Tim, thank you for your time in making these videos. These jobs would be substantially harder without this awesome reference.
Jacob Carroll Hey Jacob, the ABS gear, retainers and axle all press on pretty easy. I do lubricate the axle shaft with some grease to allow the parts to slide on easier. It's the press work to pull things off that requires more force because they tend to get locked on there over time. Pressing the axle through the old bearing requires the most force so you will experience a build up of pressure and then it finally breaks free and starts moving. After it gets moving, the pressing goes very smooth.
I doubt either of your axles are bent. You would either have to be doing some aggressive offloading or you got into an accident to bend one of those shafts. Good luck with the job!
Hi Timmy. I think I found my issue. I lifted the car up from the rear and put it in gear and I found the noise. I believe the rear bearing on the left is the culprit. Quick question. This new being puller from Duane on Ebay, does it come with the splitter too? Is that what the red plate with the cut out, and the black bolts is??
Hey Lester, glad you figured out the culprit. The link we provide in Part 2 is the complete tool with all the accessories. Here's the Tool Kit I recommend you buy from Duane: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRear-Axle-Bearing-Tone-Ring-Puller-Bearing-Install-Tools-Toyota-4Runner-84-02%2F203187764458&campid=5338641100&toolid=10001&customid=
In the video, I talk about saving money on the parts. For sure reuse both ABS tone rings and reuse the outer retainers that go against the bearings. But, please buy 2 new retainers for the inner position and I explain the reason in the comment I pinned (1st comment you'll see). Good luck with the job and if you have any questions, just ask. Happy Wrenching!
Absolute amazing job. Very informative.
Sicmods!!!
I just finished building my own 2-tool set for the bearing and the ABS ring. 1st gen Tundra.
That's cool, but you could have bought Duane's toolset for $125.
@@TimmyTheToolman built these with some scrap and a pipe for less than $50.
@markstevens1729 Again, that's cool, but how much time do you think you invested into making them? I'm all about DIY. It's what our channel is all about. But, sometimes spending the money makes total sense. Maybe you just like fabricating, and you wanted the challenge. If so, then it was worth it. But, if you think the time you spent making the tools was worth the $75 savings, well, you should put more value on your time.
@@TimmyTheToolman oh, the tools in my country are $250. (Canada) and yeah, the fabrication was fun too.
@markstevens1729 Double in Canada? I think your country needs new leadership just like the U.S. does. Anyway, you made the necessary tools and you got it done. Good job!
Great video man! I have a 09' tacoma. Can I press the complete hub assembly out and swap? Instead of only changing bearing.
Hey Mark, I'm not sure what you're asking. There's no hub on a rear axle set-up. There's just the axle, bearing, retainers and seal. So, if you asking if you can just buy the whole axle assembly with the bearings and retainers already on with the brakes from Toyota, I don't know if they sell it complete like that. Your local dealer will be able to answer this question for you though. This would not be cost effective though. It would cost you a ton of money.
@@TimmyTheToolman Good evening Timmy. I pulled both axle shafts after work today. Mine doesn't have a abs gear. I took some pictures. Do you have an email I can send them to?
@@McWeldShit What model do you have? Some of the base models didn't come with ABS. Send me a pic of one of your axles and send me pic of your rear axle housing. mtbtim@sbcglobal.net
Hey yah Timmy! Do you think a twelve ton press would press those hearings/retainers?? Thanks for your time and your videos
It could do it. There's guys that have been able to do it with the 12 ton press. But, the special service tool we link in the video description won't fit between the cross member on the 12 ton press. The seller of the tool does make one that will fit though. Here's a link: www.ebay.com/itm/193637211065?hash=item2d15ad5bb9:g:EgIAAOSwUgBfGZx7&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338641100&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 With all that said, I still think the 20 press is the way to go. If you ever had to do front wheel bearings, I don't know if the 12 ton press could do it. It takes a way more force to push the hub out of the bearing. The 20 ton press doesn't cost much more so I believe it's a much better purchase.
@@TimmyTheToolman I do have to do the front, thank you for responding to my questions! I’ll get the 20 ton. There are so many Toyota fans out there, and your videos and you and Shawn make it so we can enjoy the maintenance on our rides!
@@jeremyoshea7941 Good choice to get the 20 ton press. It's our pleasure to help people by making these videos. Good luck with all the work.
The guy down the road from me has a first GEN just like mine he has blocks for a lift kit and he just had those seals replaced in it without replacing the bearings I’d be willing to bet that they didn’t Realize the seals in a different spot possibly and without replacing his bearings to they ran into the same scenario . Flip the retainer!!
@@jeremyoshea7941 Yep, lots of people don't know that Toyota redesigned the seal, some of them being Toyota Dealership Mechanics.
Great video but I'm not sure if I agree with you on the oil compromising the bearing. It's a lot of extra work and money to replace them. My bearings had identical play to yours, and I could see where some thinned out grease was leaking from the bearings. I just replaced the seals and o rings, no bearings. Going on a year now with no leaks and no bearing noise.
Brad, you rolled the dice to save yourself some time and money and so far your gamble is paying off. Without a doubt the gear oil will wash out the bearing grease. Depending on how long the gear oil was allowed to surround the bearing will determine how much grease was washed out. Hopefully you caught it really quick and you didn't lose too much of your bearing grease.
For these videos, I give my best advice. From what I've read and experienced myself when the Toyota dealership messed up my axle seal job and the dealership replaced the bearings because gear oil had compromised the bearings, the safe bet is to always replace the bearings so you don't find yourself going back in sooner than you would have liked to do the job all over again. It would also really suck to be on a road trip, have a bearing failure and then be forced to pay high labor rates at the nearest shop so you can get back on the road.
Thanks Tim. Another big help.
You're welcome. If you haven't checked out Part 2 yet, you should. th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=EtyWowSNyytjdkCN
@TimmyTheToolman Just watched. Nice man. Big difference. Hey, I've noticed in the videos that you're working usually on the concrete or with a little pad. Do yourself a big favor...I'm 73...and get used yoga mats at Goodwill. You'll thank me later.
By the way. What have you heard. That running wheel spacers...1 1/4"...will prematurely wear out seals? (And I wonder what premature means. 10k, 50k, 100k). Not that I'm too worried about it. AND...as long as I have your attention, thank you, what are your thoughts about leveling the panhard bar after a 2 1/2" lift?
@danielvoulkos8274 The Yoga mat idea is smart. Spacers supposedly put more strain on wheel bearings, but not the seals.
In the hopes you may still get an alert of new comment. I have 1996 4runner, changed that axle seals as guided in your video here, noted that I had very low diff fluid when I drained it. I had to replace the shoes as they were drenched in gear oil. I also had the drums turned. When I got everything back in place, I filled it with new gear oil, but for the next several days have noted a smell like burning clutch from the rear end. I have no leaks. I put a new breather valve in... Is this smell the gear oil or the bakes settling in?
Some gear oil could have still been in the oil slinger. That's the metal thing on the inside of the axle face. Oil that went through the bearing was directed into it. The design was meant to send the oil to the outside of the drum, but obviously it's not a perfect design. So, I think there's a chance some oil inside the slinger made it's way into the brakes. You could pull the ABS sensors to verify the seals are holding. If you see gear oil in the cavity where the ABS tone ring is, that means gear oil is getting past the seals. If that area is dry, your seals are good. I'm assuming you verified a good mating of the seal with the inner retainer by doing either a grease test or sharpie test.
I did do the grease test and it looked good to my eye, grease got pushed back and there was a good section of clean polished metal. I guess the smell, more like burnt clutch, seemed new/different to me. Didn't smell anything like the gear oil. Hoping there was a, oh yeah, that's the new shoes seating..." answer, that my inexperience wouldn't allow me to identify. I do a double check of everything. Thanks for the help.
@brianflett7994 If you want some peace of mind, pull the ABS sensors to see the cavities are dry.
@@TimmyTheToolman took the sensors off and didn't see anythink that looked like gear oil, a little axle grease that I used when putting everything back together, but don't think it would be the culprit of the clutch smell. Took drums off and everything looked dry although it was a lot of brake dust for brand new shoes. But it did help me see that everything was dry in there. Must be something unrelated that I'll have to keep hunting for. Very pleasant surprise to get this much feedback from you on this. I really appreciate it!
@@brianflett7994 Good to hear everything looks good. It could have been some residual gear oil in the oil slinger that worked its way into the brakes but is now gone.
Timmy!
I did this job about 4 months ago and today noticed my drum was grabbing on the right side. Sure enough my seal was leaking (same side as last time).
This time I'm just going to the replace the right side since the left is brand new and no signs of leaking.
What parts can I get away with reusing? Obviously I'll need a new seal, bearing, and shoes. Can I reuse the retainers, abs rings, etc?
Sorry to hear that. You can reuse all the parts. Since that bearing has very little miles on it, I don't think it's necessary to replace it. But, I would pry up the dust seal to see how the grease looks in there. Just get a very small thin bladed screwdriver in there to pop the dust seal up. This would obviously be the side of the bearing facing the ABS tone ring because you can't access the other side of the bearing. if the grease looks good and wasn't contaminated with gear oil, just seal it back up. If gear oil did get in and wash some of the grease out, clean it up and repack it with a hi-temp wheel bearing grease you can find at any auto parts store.
Next, replace the axle seal and just be careful how much force you use to drive it in. Maybe what happened last time is you creased the seal and pushed the sealing lip more inboard. But regardless, you have to perform the grease test to confirm where the seal is riding on the inner retainer. Did you do this last time and it looked good? If so, I'm confused how it could have failed if you did this unless when you put the axle in you slammed it in the there and damaged the seal. If the seal mating with the inner retainer isn't good, you will have to adjust the position of the inner retainer on the axle so it does mate up well. Ideally, you want the seal lip to ride in the middle of the polished shoulder of the retainer but somewhere close is fine. It doesn't have to be perfect. You just don't want the lip really close to either edge (bevel or opposite side), 3mm away at least. You can make this adjustment the same way you pulled the parts off by getting the special tool with a bearing splitter attached to get under the ABS tone ring and pull the ABS tone ring and inner retainer up. After you get the new seal in, I'd perform the grease test with the axle as is just to see where it's riding. Then you'll know how much adjustment you need to make with the position of the inner retainer.
So, with an axle seal replacement, possibly some grease re-packing, and possibly an adjustment of where the inner retainer sits on the axle, you should be back in business. Oh, maybe another set of brake shoes because they soaked up all that grease. If you have any more questions, just ask.
GREAT VIDEO...Having second thoughts about bringing my 2002 Tacoma into a Machanic shop for a rear bearing job ,Thinking on doing it myself .
Dennis Khan Hey Dennis, you can definitely do it yourself with the right tools. Look at the list of tools in the video description and what they would cost you compared to what a shop would charge for this. Even if you end up spending more on the tools, you now own all this stuff for other projects. I've used the Harbor Freight press for several jobs now and same for the press sleeve kit. The bearing splitter I've used mainly for the rear axle job but I recently learned they will help me press out bushings from the front upper control arms. The only tools that has a singular use is the Durasolid axle tool. But, offer one person your help for a $200 and you've now paid for the tool. Lots of people need this repair. People are hitting me up all the time for help. If you don't want to keep the tool, you can always resell it on Ebay or Craigslist.
The other option to save money is to have a machine shop do the press work for you but you have to be picky which shop you choose because it's fairly common for them to do the press work wrong or screw up your axles by cutting off the parts and scoring your axles.
If you're into this kind of work, I'd suggest investing in the tools. Make sure you read the video description for ideas on saving money on parts as well as all the links to the tools I purchased for this job. Good luck!
I hope you would say how much the parts approximately cost, I did this job with the generic parts and it worked fine. The ABS system works based on The Hall Effect, if you are interested you can look it up.
The parts are all listed in the video description. You could add up what the OEM cost would be. Aftermarket huh? Well, time will tell if your decision was a good one.
Tim, your videos are superior and valued by many.
I have a big oily mess inside of a rear drum which is/was causing a squeal noise when braking. I'm having trouble determining whether the wheel cylinder or the axle seal is the source. The thick, black, oily residue covers the shoes and most of the components. There is no exterior leak. Fluid levels for brake fluid and axle fluid appear fine. The underside of the rubber boots on the cylinders appear fine, as does the inside of the axle with the ABS sensor removed.
Any thoughts? I can do the brakes, but the seals are probably beyond my time/ability/tools.
If you want to double check if it's gear oil that has gotten past the axle seal, jack up the rear end with both wheels off the ground, remove the wheel on the affected side, pull the ABS sensor and look into the ABS hole while turning the axle. If you can see gear oil being lapped up by the ABS tone ring, the seal is leaking and what you're seeing in the brakes is definitely gear oil. Basically, what you've said leads me to believe it's gear oil. A thick black oily residue is most likely gear oil that has mixed with the brake dust.
@Timmy The Toolman any update on this project since installation? Did flipping the retainer actually work and it didnt leak? I plan to do this tomorrow. Thanks for the video btw
The flip method has held up for 4+ years and 60k miles. The main thing regarding this repair and verifying you have a good mating of the inner retainer and axle seal. All flipping the retainer does is allow a good mating without having to risk the retainer running up against the inside of the axle housing.
@@TimmyTheToolman that sounds like a job well done to me, thank you so much for such a quick reply Timmy. I'm excited to do this project tomorrow following another one of your video haha. I did the cv boot mod following your video and it hasn't leak since, thank so much for the videos you make keep them up. Thanks again.
@@theregularguy5409 You're very welcome and good luck with the job. Let us know how it went for you.
Amazing video Timmy
I loved the video, i just wished I watched it before I sent my axel in to my friend that pressed the retainer ring way too much. We added a second ring and got 3mm of polished axle showing, it doesnt sit right in the axle housing, it hits the axel, just pass the seal. Is there any remedy for this? We did cut off the extra ratainer. Now we are stuck with the first retainer pushed up against the toner ring. We dont have a bearing puller, my friend had to heat and cut the abs ring and retainer off the first time. ANd I dont want to have to do that again. is there a possible ratainer ring we could add to the shaft that is less than 10mm, that would give us more than 3mm of polished axel? Thanks for your time and hopefully a reply soon.
Paula Marie Tavares there is no other retainer ring I know of.. the best thing to do at this point is use a bearing splitting to pull it back up into the right position.
Timmy The Toolman thank you very much for your time. I love watching your videos.
Paula Marie Tavares Sicmods!!!
Is that much play in the wheel bearing normal? I’m replacing my axle seal and saw that I have the same play in the bearing as you do, should I get it replaced or is it in good condition.
What I learned is even new bearings have play but I think the movement you see with the axle not bolted up to the axle housing is deceiving. Once the axle is bolted to the housing, I believe it locks everything together and the play goes away.
Why did you drain his fresh gear oil ? - Excellent info , thanks
Because when you pull the axles, a lot of it will leak out until the level gets below the axles tubes. You could jack up one side at a time and limit the gear oil loss, but that's not what we did.
Great video, i have to do this job on my 2000tundra 4.7, only problem i have is i dont have a good mail order parts company to buy from? Can you suggest any?
I buy all my parts through Camelback Toyota out of Arizona. parts.camelbacktoyota.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214329
Their prices are competitive, they ship quickly and they will ship for free if you order is $150 or more. They only charge a $3 handling fee. If you have any questions about parts you need, you can call and talk to Jorge (he calls himself George), he's in charge of the online sales currently. He's a nice guy and very helpful. If you talk to him, tell him Timmy the Toolman says hi.
Be sure to read the video description before ordering parts because I describe how you can save money by reusing some of the parts.
5mm of polished shaft & inverted inner retainer. That sounds correct? Tired of getting 3 years out of my wheel bearings. Thanks Timmy!
5mm seemed like the perfect measurement at first but it depends where you measure from. Where the polished surface starts isn't perfectly symmetrical on the axle. You'll notice a high and low side and that's due to how the axles were machined. So, a safer starting point is at 3-4mm. Then insert the axle and perform a sharpie or grease test. You'll then see if you're good or you might have to drive the retainer and ABS tone ring on a little further. Please read the comment I pinned for updated information on this repair. It's important you read it. I also recommend you watch Part 2: th-cam.com/video/R-c2x3F8DU4/w-d-xo.html and read the comment I pinned for that video. Doing all that will make you the most prepared you can be for this job. It's worth your time to be as informed as possible so you do it once and it's done right. Good luck!
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thanks so much Timmah! You're quite the Toyota owner's asset!
@@buttermilkbiscuit1021 You're very welcome. We're here to help as much as we can.