Well Darth, this was a journey and a half and must have taken a week worth of work between the repairs, finding parts, painting in some cases, servicing, and the longest part of all editing. Great job and video, Jersey Bill
I enjoyed your video Darth. Many of the locomotives you worked on I have in my retro vintage fleet of the pre-China import era relics which were primarily collected in the 90s. I believe the last locomotive presented in your excellent video, the Model Power Santa Fe FA2, is Model Powers move away from Roco and toward Mehano in the later part of their marketing. The Italian style motor you revealed was new to me . All my later day Model Power FA2s have Mabuchi motors over the power truck which to me was a serious downgrade from the original. Yours was a rare specimen for me. It's now on the list. Thank you for sharing and demonstrating how to gain access to these devices. Carry on and keep up the good work. Sincerely, George
Great video! Thank you for sharing your work! If you don't mind my asking, what type of traction tires do you use to replace those that are broken or missing?
52:40 You could MU the A and B units together with a drawbar and wires giving the A unit 16 wheel pick up... 1:34:00 You got a rare "Reading" GP 20... John
Before the Proto 2000 FA2 came on the scene in ‘89-‘90, the Roco-built Model Power FA was the go-to. That huge can motor and flywheel made for a solid and reliable runner. Funny thing is that even Model Railroader magazine didn’t know exactly what to call it, as it’s got a mishmash of FA1 and FA2 details, although the length of the model is closest to the FA1.
That old brass E7 was interesting. The weight shaped like a prime mover was, as you said, a hallmark of the old Tenshodo F units (that had some really weird dimensions). Can only guess that a previous owner had one that was also in pieces and couldn’t remember what parts went to what model.
That brass E7 reminded me of the "brass" E7-B unit that was made for Sunset Models ,that i found for 8 bucks at the local hobby shop. Thing is.. it was heavily coated in yellow and green paint . When i scrubbed off the paint though, i discovered that the brass finish came off ,revealing it was stamped sheet metal with brass plating,lol.
I think there were some "brass" models that were actually made with polished nickel-silver or were plated with nickel or stainless steel. It was to make it easier to paint them for railroads that had polished silver siding.
Great video! You seem to know a lot about repairing old locos. I have 3 RS-3 locomotives from Athearn that completely stopped running, and I bought them about 10 years ago. Any suggestions on how to get them to run? I emailed Athearn about it but they said they don't have any replacement parts available. Must have just been a bad run of this model..
@@thomasryan9639 Thanks! The early run RS-3 had issues with black paint getting into the square axle bearing slots, which can cause arcing and oxidation buildup over time. I’d start by cleaning up all the contact points and scraping any black paint out of those slots.
Well Darth, this was a journey and a half and must have taken a week worth of work between the repairs, finding parts, painting in some cases, servicing, and the longest part of all editing. Great job and video, Jersey Bill
I enjoyed your video Darth. Many of the locomotives you worked on I have in my retro vintage fleet of the pre-China import era relics which were primarily collected in the 90s. I believe the last locomotive presented in your excellent video, the Model Power Santa Fe FA2, is Model Powers move away from Roco and toward Mehano in the later part of their marketing. The Italian style motor you revealed was new to me . All my later day Model Power FA2s have Mabuchi motors over the power truck which to me was a serious downgrade from the original. Yours was a rare specimen for me. It's now on the list. Thank you for sharing and demonstrating how to gain access to these devices. Carry on and keep up the good work. Sincerely, George
Great video! Thank you for sharing your work! If you don't mind my asking, what type of traction tires do you use to replace those that are broken or missing?
@@FoxCatcher_Designs Thanks! I use Calumet traction tires.
@@DarthSantaFe Awesome, thank you! I will check those out.
This looks like it won’t need much work *motor unresponsive * well, I guess it will. 😂 always love your content, Darth
Another excellent presentation.
52:40 You could MU the A and B units together with a drawbar and wires giving the A unit 16 wheel pick up...
1:34:00 You got a rare "Reading" GP 20... John
I WOULD LOVE to own that A+B pair of Roco FA-1'a. I LOVE those units. I have a number of them already and would love to have more of them.
@@NorthernWolf76 Be sure to watch the Community tab posts on my page!
Before the Proto 2000 FA2 came on the scene in ‘89-‘90, the Roco-built Model Power FA was the go-to. That huge can motor and flywheel made for a solid and reliable runner. Funny thing is that even Model Railroader magazine didn’t know exactly what to call it, as it’s got a mishmash of FA1 and FA2 details, although the length of the model is closest to the FA1.
Great stuff Darth very enjoyable!!
That brass E-7 that has the 7 pole motor is begging for some neodymium magnets. Cheers from eastern TN
@@w.rustylane5650 I used to do that more frequently, but then I got the remagnetizer tool. It’s saved me quite a few good magnets!
That old brass E7 was interesting. The weight shaped like a prime mover was, as you said, a hallmark of the old Tenshodo F units (that had some really weird dimensions). Can only guess that a previous owner had one that was also in pieces and couldn’t remember what parts went to what model.
Great video! Slight correction at 1:14:40 that is an SDP40, not an SDP45, the SDP45 has flared radiators and is slightly longer.
Thanks! I corrected myself a few minutes later in the video.
Nice video. Quite a few older units I have never seen before.
Ótimo vídeo.
The Tyco C630. One of the best shells on the cheapest drive known to man.........
Stay trim, keep playing, and homage to all as we age up🤟🏽
That brass E7 reminded me of the "brass" E7-B unit that was made for Sunset Models ,that i found for 8 bucks at the local hobby shop. Thing is.. it was heavily coated in yellow and green paint . When i scrubbed off the paint though, i discovered that the brass finish came off ,revealing it was stamped sheet metal with brass plating,lol.
I think there were some "brass" models that were actually made with polished nickel-silver or were plated with nickel or stainless steel. It was to make it easier to paint them for railroads that had polished silver siding.
I've never seen an armature with three differently colored coils!
Great video! You seem to know a lot about repairing old locos.
I have 3 RS-3 locomotives from Athearn that completely stopped running, and I bought them about 10 years ago. Any suggestions on how to get them to run? I emailed Athearn about it but they said they don't have any replacement parts available. Must have just been a bad run of this model..
@@thomasryan9639 Thanks! The early run RS-3 had issues with black paint getting into the square axle bearing slots, which can cause arcing and oxidation buildup over time. I’d start by cleaning up all the contact points and scraping any black paint out of those slots.
Nice video! What is the oil that you use?
@@PeterVanCampenhout-h6o Thanks! It’s automatic transmission fluid.
Hey I would like to know if you repair steam locomotives for the public person
I do now and then. If you need to have some work done, you can contact me at darthsantafe@gmail.com.
How much for the reading Gp20?
@@JustATeenageRailfan Sorry, that one already sold.
@ sad