This deserves a Nobel Prize. I can finally rest easy knowing that they truly are different. Thanks for your continued hard work in the disc golf community. You deserve more recognition than you’ve ever received.
Great comment. I was really surprised by the community's reaction to this video when it first came out. For me, it was like a light had been turned on.
Just saw this mentioned on reddit (who is apparently evil now for canceling 3rd party apps) so its lowkey dead ass viral frfr no cap on god shits bussin fam esketit
I thought your process of analyzing the baffling variation in Destroyers was methodical and logical, and quite right. You have answered a question I've wondered about for YEARS! I have had 3 Destroyers - one was one of the best drivers ever, and the other two could NEVER fly straight. Thanks for sharing your excellent analysis and insights !
@@ryosapien27 I have only had 3 Destroyers, ever. 2 of them would never fly straight for me and both of those had a cupped inward surface on the underside of the "wing," as described in Doth's excellent video. The 3rd Destroyer, the one that flew straight and far, had a full flat shape across the underside of the wing. Now, when I shop for driver discs, I look for the full flat shape on the underside of the wing as a requirement before buying. I have found that Westside Hatchet and Discraft Heat (fairway drivers) are a more consistent alternative to Destroyers.
I went to my local disc golf store today and stacked up all the Destroyers they had, 27 of them. Champion, Star and Pro plastic. I used your pin method and was able to find a perfect under stable Destroyer, it is a 162gr domey pop-top Pro plastic one. Your insight, experiments and due diligence in measuring these discs is awe-inspiring and helped me throw my longest throw to date. Thank you!
At 1:10 to 1:35 I like how you basically called out the industry and the industry representatives for not being forthcoming in their knowledge of inconsistencies of the run of disc that you are featuring here. As a noob, this is powerful info. This bit of education I am recieving here will be taken from this moment forward. Thank you for sharing these findings...
Colorants also change the way a plastic responds to heat and cooling cycles, sometimes drastically. Beyond temp and humidity in their factory, slightly unique plastic blend, or workers using a unique heat/cool cycle for the day, color additive is another factor that will influence how a disc comes out of the mold. I found that blue and pink katanas are more often the shape that I like. Every orange ive tested was far too overstable. White has typically been in the middle. Great discussion. I would wonder how the top height relates to the flying edge as well, if there is also a correlation on each disc or if it’s an independent factor that also influences flight.
I'm working on that episode 2. It may take me some time. I need a drone. I ideally would be showing flight comparison of many other discs in the same realm as the Destroyer and see what happens. For now I have 6 Kongs and a very tall stack of Forces that I'm trying to learn about.
Thank you Shawn! Its started to be come more well known for sure. Maybe I need to make a more concise version 2 that is easier to digest and perhaps it would spread further.
That is some great analysis and explains so much about overstability vs understability primarily being in the shape of the wing. Thanks for putting in the work to advance knowledge in the community.
Awesome video!!! Thank you very much for all the detail here. I went to Dick's this morning and came home with 2 Star Destroyers. One 150g, one 161g. The light one had a bigger gap than the heavier one. Neither one seemed as severe as the disks you showed here that were OS. These are both PMc 4x stamped *D's .. FYI, if you're in the store and don't have a rivet, a debit/credit card works well for eye balling the gap. Bottom line, I just went and threw them and they fly very similar to each other. Neither one is a meat hook. Very usable for my arm! I think the 11g weight difference is why the larger gap disc flies like the smaller gap/heavier disc.
That's so cool to hear you found some nice *D's. It sounds like you have 2 great throwers! The debit/credit card idea is perfect. I've been in a few stores now and have just been staring at the wing because I hadn't thought to take out my credit card. I'm gonna use your trick from now on :)
Also important is the dome shape and stiffness when speculating on stability. Generally the flatter and softer, the less over stable in my experience. I only throw champion destroyers and they vary drastically. Some are dead straight while others are meat hooks.
Dude! Thanks for the video. So I’m a wraith thrower and have a huge stack that I work through for backups and field work and out of 9 that I had just in my office, I saw the same variations that for the most part correlated with what I thought was the more overstable to understable. An even more interesting thought is my wife has a sponsorship where she asked for a dx Valkyrie so she can have a hyzerflip Valkyrie till one broken in. The person went in the wearhouse and picked her out a champion 150 weight that was the most understandable brand new disc I’ve ever thrown. Just ran to the car to grab it and compare to her other Valkyries and sure enough even though the mold is still clearly a valk mold there is less of a gap on the flippy champ then her other discs. Sounds like they know a little something about this already.
You are welcome! That's so cool that your wife has a sponsorship, congrats to her! Innova is probably extremely aware of this. I imagine it is even a point of contention when Discmania for example is having to deal with poor consistency of their PD2s(I'm assuming, have not tested PD2s). '
Thanks for the work you put into this video. I've recently started purchasing Destroyers and the first two are 4X and completely useless for distance. I just picked up a 145 and 166 Wysocki and they aren't even close to being the same disc. I pulled them out during the rivet portion of the video and they aren't even close to being the same disc. The 4x has the huge gap and the Wysocki versions are flat. One Wysocki has Made in the USA, the other does not and they are slightly different in angle as well. I can see both of those in my bag, so much more distance. I can't wait to actually measure to see how drastic they are yardage.
I grabbed my "throwable" destroyers (from my bag) and compared them to my pile of destroyers I don’t use...this was absolutely correct! I have 4 destroyers in different plastics (2xGStar, 1xPro, 1xChampion) that I throw all the time, I love them! And they all seem to be a “.2mm” type from your chart. I have 6 destroyer that sit in my garage and all of them looked like your “.65mm” pictures. Nice find my friend I also have “throwable” Archons and found the same thing. My “good” discs all have the same shape, and the ones in my garage that I can’t throw, had a significantly deeper groove.
Thank you! I have ordered a few Destroyers since I finally reached the point where I threw multiple discs at around 400 ft. Now to feel the discs when I get them and figuring their flight!
I knew they were all very different from one another but this blew my mind. I’ve always felt the 164-169 was the sweet spot, but some took longer to break in than others and some got super flippy after a year or so. I have 5 solid ones in my bag now after experimenting with at least 30. Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Great video. The wing example is on point. The bottom plate is just a filler and can be changed around. The molds are 3-piece (top-plate/bottom-wing/bottom-plate).
Thank you. I wish I knew this before making the video. You can see the 2 different parting seams of the mold and that verifies the 3 piece mold as you say.
Fantastic work. I really appreciate your attention to detail. Especially after you realized there was a difference from one side of the disc to the other, scrapped your data, and started again with 3 measurements per disc. Inconsistent from run to run, inconsistent within the same batch, and even inconsistent within the same disc from one end to the other. Yeah that bubble on the one side of the wing is possible a tip-off. Also- the 3 grind block vs 4 grind block somehow felt like an "Ah-Ha!" moment in a crime drama! Now Ive gotta check mine out of curiosity. Someone commented about how higher PLH means more overstability. Yes, generally true but I imagine the PLH to be the same among all Destroyers. This video is about the shape of the wing itself and how it varies drastically among Destroyers. Specifically that the deeper the concavity, the more overstable the flight with early and dumpy fade.. If the wing is flat like a board, Doth Savek finds it flies more understable and much much FURTHER for him. 330 ish vs 450. 450' is a crush man!
Thank you for the comments! Yes 450 is very good for me. The down side is that now there is video proof of 450 being my limit I can no longer brag about throwing 600ft like everyone else on the internet haha.
@@DothSavek Haha. If you can throw 450 on a cold day, I believe you prob throw 500 in the summer when you're all warmed up. The trick is to have a known reference and a dude on zoom, and of course your trusty old white PFN Destroyer. As a side note, I max out now at 380-400, and I think 450 is the next milestone. I prob wont get there as Im 42 already.
Excellent breakdown, this connected a lot of dots and explains how I got a Valkyrie that flies identically to a Thunderbird. Ordering online is such a lottery now.
This is a more organized study than most colleges do. AND HE REALIZED A MISTAKE AND STARTED OVER. That is true honest science. Excellent video. I've always wanted to know which features of a disc provide the physics for different aspects of how the disc flies. Ex. Dome= longer flight. So does that depth of the rim that you are measuring equate to stability? Maybe not ALL of the factors that effect stability but one of them?
This comment made me smile all day! Thanks for the kind words. I think all the shape factors effect multiple aspects of flight. I really am not close to grasping all the dynamics. I just know that on Destroyers the bottom of the wing is a huge and easily identifiable factor in stability.
Thank you for the knowledge my friend! Awesome review of the destroyer. I went ahead and checked all of my favorite discs and noticed similar discrepancies 'within the same run'. One thing I'd like to point out is that the same disc, but different run, had even greater differences. The most extreme I found was with two of my star plastic mambas. The bezel on the rim on one has 4 gradients, the other has 3, and they fly completely different (the 4 gradient is 'meat hook' - which is nuts the mamba is designed to shoot off to the right!).
I have extremely similar findings yo yours. I actively seek straight-winged destroyers for my go to distance slot. If I need a headwind destroyer, I look for angle in the wing.
CSG1027 if you are looking for flat wing destroyers check out some g stars. I have lost all of my all run stars and I found a flat winged gstar that is as stiff as star but is gummy. When I was checking other g stars out I found that a lot of them are shaped identically to the more sought after flat ones.
Maybe this knowledge is out there for research, but this is the first I've heard it; and I loved it! You kind of know instinctively the more of one mold you throw, but this gives at least a bit of explanation. The grind thing was a real eye opener for me.
I just checked the 3 Star Destroyers I have sitting on my desk and 2 of them have the grind marks. One looks like the same 3 grind block and the other is the 4 grind block. Same exact pattern. The third is a halo cfr and does not have any grind block marking. (New mold???) I'll check my 4x McBeth later. I also have worked in injection molding and what you were saying about gravity and not letting the plastic set before cooling makes a ton of sense. This is so awesome.
This video was very enlightening and great info for people to know! I just bought a 175g Champion Glow Destroyer and before I even went out to throw it I knew it was going to be quite an understable driver because it has a flat slightly negative rim.
What would be helpful, and possibly even a selling point for any manufacturer that chooses to incorporate this feature, would be to have a "MOLD NUMBER" stamp added to the disc, allowing for more consistency when consumers make purchases. The consumer would maybe gain from that consistency, one less variable,,,, as we have found there are many variables to consider; i.e. plastics, cool times, humidity at time of production, colorants, etc....
DG forensics! You geeked so hard on this and I love it. I think this is a huge problem for the manufacturers though. On one end of the spectrum, they're not even Destroyers anymore. Just call it something else already.
You need to check rim width also. I have found variation in the beast. Older disc have a slightly narrower rim and for me fly stable at weights of 165-167. Newer discs have a slightly wider rim and fly very over stable at weights 140 and above. I am using the blizzard plastic.
Great vid. Issues brought up in this video are actually why I don’t throw much innova. I throw discs I find to be very consistently molded, and it didn’t take me long to realize innova can be all over the place I was somewhat aware of this problem and I have always wondered why people went after these “rare” destroyers instead of using more understable molds with similar hand feel.
Oh boy .. this was such a revelation for me. Thanks. I had to do some testing today with my in-bag destroyers, and discarded destroyers. I have 2 champ and 1 star 4x that are total meathooks and have to be thrown at severe anny to hold any form of line - correlated perfectly with your testing of the rim with the rivet. My other star and one champion fly exactly the way theyre supposed to. In addition i have a Scorpius that also flies perfectly - i suspect this to be from the same mold, or from a blueprint copy of the destroyer mold. I have a weak arm, so this reassured me that discarding the meathooks were the right decision. I struggle to throw them further than 150 feet. The others i max out easily (350 feet, my max distance). Again, thanks. Fantastic work!
I have a new Ricky star destroyer with MADE IN U.S.A. on it. The madeinusa stamp is a positive on the disc, not negative -- same as the Innova champion discs blurb of text. But the 'DESTROYER' stamp in the middle is a negative. Don't see any block marks. It looks like there's at least 3 molds then. The valley in the profile is in the middle of your spectrum.
My man!!! That's some A+ analytics right there! Finally explains why my 2-line AJ and embossed F2 have nearly identical PLH, but undeniably different flight patterns. I would just add one thing....if I may: If it's a beefy Destroyer anyone's after, just get a PD2 or Xcal. It's really not worth the time and money. Especially if buying online is your only option. Other than that, I'm cool with the variations; (currently bagging 3).
awesome analysis, thanks for putting measured data to what I've been trying to figure out by just gripping on and throwing different runs. I immediately grabbed my stack and started measuring, and there is definitely a direct correlation, my most stable all have a much deeper wing.
@Jake Rodee Thank you for the compliment. Nice words like these keep me inspired. Stay tuned! I am just editing footage tonight. Should be recording the first in a series of disc reviews this week. Starting with the 2x Ricky Destroyers! Can't wait to see how this works out.
I'm new to disc golf...So of course I had to get a Destroyer when I was ready to start bombing discs. Sometimes I can get my Destroyer to go 350, but I have to do it on an Annhyzer release and flex it out there. It's a Philo Team Champion glo disc with that pastel blue color. I've heard different color plastics cool at different rates too so maybe that plays a part as well, but Its an overstable fairway driver for me most of the time..I've switched to an orange Corvette for distance and it's been doing great. It's a laser beam off the tee with a consistant fade at the very end of its flight
I’m in the exact same boat. My Ricky destroyer is so stable that I have to throw it far out right on an anhyzer and it still flips and dives down edge first. I just ordered a corvette, tern, and mamba to try to get the results you got.
@@justinjenco9417 Love all 3 of those discs...Now that I'm a year in I can finally throw those discs I couldn't a year ago...The Tern is a great choice, Corvette is a great backhand and forehand discs in Star plastics..If you really wanna get distance at your experience level, get a Prodigy D6!! ..You won't regret it I promise...It can follow you as you get better and turn into a hyzer flip disc, and finally it will be your roller disc as you get better...They are hard to find, but don't pass 1 up if you happen to find one.
Same concept with star wraiths as well. They vary so much its insane. I heard a rumor if you check the very edge in the middle theres an incredibly small plastic line where the mold was potential brought together (don't know specifics on molding so this could be wrong) but I heard when the line is closer to the top of the plate its more OS and vice versa, but your theory with the mold drying and drooping is a pretty cool find. Great video.
That's the parting line. Higher parting lines correspond to overstable discs and lower parting lines to understable. Basically, the more weight at the top of the disc, the more OS, the more weight at the bottom, the more US.
This is such a good video. Totally backs up my experience with my two destroyers. Champion way flatter, more understable. Mcbeth Star much more scooped and a total meathook.
* found this absolutely fascinating . . . i was a bit harsh commenting on your last video - [bag review] - the first one i've viewed by you. bad day, & i had a few beers . . . just wanted to say - job well done !
Thank you very much for your time and efforts. This was a huge help not only to better understand how and why discs fly the way they do, but also to be able to more precisely find the discs that fly better for myself. The attention to detail and research you committed to was profound. Much gratitude.
Great video! This is so helpful! I bought a champion destroyer online and it is definitely the way over stable type. It was a forehand only disc for me and always finished hard right for me. As it got beat in, I'm getting a lot more distance out of it and can throw it backhand now as well. It's turned out to be a much more useful disc over time, but it's taken some hard tree hits to get to that point.
Also something worth noting about the NEW REAL Ricky Destroyers (which I do believe are the ones with the "Made in USA" on it. I have one), is that there are air bubbles in the wing at much higher weights. I have a 171g (scaled) Ricky Destroyer and there are air bubbles in the rim. This must mean that they are also balancing the weight a little differently (more evenly by taking weight away from the thick wing and adding it to the thinner flight plate). Has anyone else noticed this?
There are air bubbles in the rim of many of my Ricky Destroyers that do have the grind blocks. Also I was told and have confirmed that the molds are 3 price. The bottom peice is the one with the grind blocks or Made In USA. This bottom peice is not specific to destroyers. It gets changed around and that is why you can see the exact samw pattern grind blocks on PDs for example.
@@DothSavek I'm just wondering though if for the "Ricky Destroyers" they are CHOOSING to add the air bubbles to the rim to change the weight distribution, and what impact that has on the flight (I buy mostly 170-171g destroyers and none of them before the Ricky had air bubbles in the rim, and we're talking like "blizzard" level air bubbles, so it must affect weight dist. / flight in some way?)
@@djwatson82 hmm I dont know. I have quite a few new discs that are now having those bubbles and striations in them. For example I have an AviarX3 that I just got in my Ricky Subscription box and it has those bubble marks. Its a mystery to me.
2 days ago i got a live stream in my recommended of your sasquatch review and thought id listen to you while at work. I really enjoyed the stream and how detailed you were so i subscribed because im looking for a new bag soon and figured this was right on time. i watched quite a few of your videos over the last couple of days and was just recommended this video and got a good laugh when i saw this comment above. helped me find a handful of great destroyers and now 2 years later helping me find a great bag. im subscribed now keep up the awesome work man.
I'm glad know this now. Before watching this video if I went and picked up ANY new disc and I found it unusable, I'd just determine that the disc wasn't for me or I just wasn't strong enough to throw it properly... but now, thanks to you, I know that one disc is not representative of the whole line... in any way. I'd be interested to see a quality/consistency comparison between manufacturers.
Definitely not just destroyers. Friend has a Mamba that is a meat hook, I had this problem with the Colossus four disc G star same weight all different flights. If you have a disc golf store in your area you could look for a specific wing but that doesn't online. I switched manufactures to MVP and found the consistency to be way better but not without issue, I have owned 8 Octanes purchased over about two years and they all fly the same other than weight difference. I think all companies have issues with consistency of flight and the high volume that Innova does could be the reason they have greater inconsistency.
This video was done so incredibly well. Being new to the sport, I found it very informative. I just picked up a Millennium Scorpio’s in the Sirius plastic and flipped it over to see the 3 grind marks on it. I know Innova makes these, but it was interesting to see that it’s basically a Destroyer.....and actually pretty flat and not as overstable as the Destroyers I have gotten. The C-line FDs I have are 4 grinds, but I don’t know which Innova mold this would share.
Thank you! I would like to try some Scorpius, not sure when, but I'm gonna keep my eyes peeled. Fds probably share a bottom plate with leopards, teebirds, ect.
doth savek I think you’re exactly right about the FDs. I have a few leopards and they do seem very similar. The Scorpius probably flies better for me than any of the 4 grind star destroyers I have and is very similar to the 3 grind pro destroyer. The “rivet” test gave me something to look for when picking discs.
This is the exact reason why I stopped throwing Innova 4-5years ago, To find 2 discs alike from them is harder than any other brand. Im not saying other brands dont have same issues but as I currently throw mixed Latitude / Discmania bag, I haven't had those wtf moments I had with innova. It has been quite common knowledge imo tho, have you seen mcbeth walk to a park with a cardboardbox full of roc's ? Why would he need to throw 30 of them to find the one he likes :)
I LOVE my destroyers. I was given one as a joke because I did not have the arm to control it at all. For my first year with it it was just a funny dirt dart. It was always hilarious to watch it turnover and then just dive bomb the turf. But since then I've learned how to throw it and it's one of my go-to's on every outing. My Destroyer is one of the few discs that I instantly replace upon losing or damaging it. It's interesting to see that me learning how to throw it could just be me finding a destroyer shape that matches my arm. Now I need to go check my bag since I have two separate destroyers in there.
Just bought my first Ricky Wysocki Star Destroyer. I'm only a year in to disc golf and knew different plastics fly differently, but had no idea there were so many variances in the same disc molds! I'll have to check mine out and hope I got lucky.
Half way through I had to check the two wraiths I have. Both star but different runs. Same thing you have found! Interesting and something I will look at when buying discs. Great content
Love this. Wish I would have seen this sooner. What's so wild is that my PFN Destroyers are pretty overstable. My Proto Star *D looks to fly like your PFN Destroyer. My favorites to find are the ones in the middle ground and this is going to help me greatly!
I bought two Discmania DDX discs last summer. I definitely noticed that even tho the two were visually identical, the other one was consistently more understable than the other. So i marked the more understable one with a marker. Now after seeing this video, i compared the wings with a straight rivet and noticed the more understable one has way less curve in the wing. Then i checked both of my Discmania PD2s. They both fly pretty equal to each other, so i only carry one of them at a time. And again i checked the wing and they are pretty much identical. I also noticed they both have that 100% identical 4 grind block "fingerprint" in the bottom. So most likely PD2 uses the Destroyer bottom mold. My only Destroyer is a 4x PMB Star Destroyer, with pretty curvy wing and it's a 3 grind block one. And it's pretty overstable and was hard to turn over when it was brand new.
Rumor has it that Innova changed their cooling time from 35 seconds to 28 seconds and they’re also using a different glue mix for their plastics and that causes a lot of the inconsistencies in each disc.
Although I’ve never had a Destroyer ( and probably never will) I just buy F2 discs and learn how to throw them in a field. Of course I’m merely an amateur who will probably never own even 5% of the number of discs in the background. But for the hardcore research types, this looks like an excellent approach to getting the perfect disc.
Great video. This is why its good to watch In the Bag and Pro Tour vids. They do talk about stuff like this. You definitely do a better job of breaking down the differences, though. Now, if you can just tell me why ALL of the Destroyer "lines" turned on me lol. I kicked them out of my bag because all of a sudden no Destroyer will fly right for me. It's a "me" problem, for sure. Thanks for the vid and keep it up :)
I've learned so much from this video, absolutely awesome! I went through some of my discs and your method helped me sort them. Later on the course they all flew true to the measurements! I will also use this at the shop to pick and compare new purchases! Thanks for a fantastic vid.
Thank you soo much. I couldnt find any overstable destroyers, but now i know why! I found a beautiful poptop that acted almost like an x-cal, but on my second round with it, it kicked into a swamp...😭. Thank yiu for the new info
This really bugs me. If there's one thing that you want in disc golf it's consistency. I've only ever thrown Innova but this might be the nail in the coffin to make some changes. Great video sir. Shoutout to Disc Golf Nerd for recommending this video to me. 👍👊
Subbed. I noticed this across a few innova driver molds last year, and ended up swapping out my bag to another manufacturer. The inconsistency was maddening. Glad to see this information out in the community...just wish I had seen this video sooner!
Thank you! I have sent multiple e-mails to Innova and unfortunately they refuse to respond. :( Edit: Innova did respond by sending an email to me today. I've asked if they are ok with me sharing their statement online. If they give me the ok I will post their reply.
@@bestvolibearuseast We apologize for the delayed response to your email. Thanks for your kind words and thoughtful video; you raise a lot of great questions here. All Destroyers are made with the same mold, and the slight variances between runs is a normal part of the production process that can actually be an asset. There isn't one singular intended Destroyer--while Dave prefers his own Destroyers to have a mild, uniform dome and a rounded shoulder, the truth is (as you noted in your video) there are different Destroyers for different players. It sounds like your video is helping people figure out exactly what they're looking for in a Destroyer so they can shop with confidence, and we certainly commend that. We're constantly innovating in production and design, and listening to customer feedback is a huge part of that. Thank you for participating in the process. Best, Jessi Dunipace
Hi, Kevin - Thanks for doing the research on gap depth/concavity-stability correlations and presenting your discoveries! I have a question. I have no data on this, but it’s the commonly understood that discs become less stable as they are thrown more. The conventional wisdom is that hitting the ground, trees, etc., dings up the nose and bends it down, i.e., lowers “parting line height”(PLH). However, doesn’t lowering PLH actually increase the gap depth, rather than decreasing it? After all the bottom rim, where the bead would be, doesn’t change, and neither (I’m guessing) does the deepest point of the concave wing-or not much. It seems that only the outside edge/nose drops. *If* that’s correct and gap depth were the primary factor determining stability, shouldn’t discs get more stable as they are broken in? I’m guessing there’s a formula for this that takes into account gap depth *and* PLH, among other less important factors. On the other hand, maybe I’m wrong. Maybe breaking in a disc pushes the nose in, bulging out the wing, thereby decreasing the concavity/gap depth. I’d love to see some data on this! Have you thrown those Ricky Dees enough to see any change in their flight patterns since you first tested them? If so, have you re-measured their gaps?
That's very interesting. Ive not taken any hard measurements on PLH, but instead compare on disc side by side with the next. I doubt wing gap changes but the entire wing angle might. Im not really sure all the things that might be happening as a disc breakes in, but the flight does change thats for sure. I will ponder this a bit and see if I come up with any ideas for doing a before and after sort of test. Thanks for the info
This deserves a Nobel Prize. I can finally rest easy knowing that they truly are different. Thanks for your continued hard work in the disc golf community. You deserve more recognition than you’ve ever received.
This should be viral in the disc golf community
Agree.
Great comment. I was really surprised by the community's reaction to this video when it first came out. For me, it was like a light had been turned on.
Agreed. New to the game, but the science geek in me LOVES this type of approach and data.
@@keepdiscgolfweird5879 how did the DG community react?
Just saw this mentioned on reddit (who is apparently evil now for canceling 3rd party apps) so its lowkey dead ass viral frfr no cap on god shits bussin fam esketit
"you're hired" - Innova
Lololol
No fired😂
They need to fire their Quality Engineer guy! Lol
We need more videos like this. I loved the attention to detail!
I thought your process of analyzing the baffling variation in Destroyers was methodical and logical, and quite right. You have answered a question I've wondered about for YEARS! I have had 3 Destroyers - one was one of the best drivers ever, and the other two could NEVER fly straight. Thanks for sharing your excellent analysis and insights !
This video should be titled "Why you should NOT buy Innova Discs,"
You’ve had 3 destroyers? You mean at a time or in your lifetime ?
@@ryosapien27 I have only had 3 Destroyers, ever. 2 of them would never fly straight for me and both of those had a cupped inward surface on the underside of the "wing," as described in Doth's excellent video. The 3rd Destroyer, the one that flew straight and far, had a full flat shape across the underside of the wing. Now, when I shop for driver discs, I look for the full flat shape on the underside of the wing as a requirement before buying. I have found that Westside Hatchet and Discraft Heat (fairway drivers) are a more consistent alternative to Destroyers.
I went to my local disc golf store today and stacked up all the Destroyers they had, 27 of them. Champion, Star and Pro plastic. I used your pin method and was able to find a perfect under stable Destroyer, it is a 162gr domey pop-top Pro plastic one. Your insight, experiments and due diligence in measuring these discs is awe-inspiring and helped me throw my longest throw to date. Thank you!
Thats awesome to hear! I'm glad you found a nice one.
At 1:10 to 1:35 I like how you basically called out the industry and the industry representatives for not being forthcoming in their knowledge of inconsistencies of the run of disc that you are featuring here. As a noob, this is powerful info. This bit of education I am recieving here will be taken from this moment forward. Thank you for sharing these findings...
Colorants also change the way a plastic responds to heat and cooling cycles, sometimes drastically. Beyond temp and humidity in their factory, slightly unique plastic blend, or workers using a unique heat/cool cycle for the day, color additive is another factor that will influence how a disc comes out of the mold. I found that blue and pink katanas are more often the shape that I like. Every orange ive tested was far too overstable. White has typically been in the middle.
Great discussion. I would wonder how the top height relates to the flying edge as well, if there is also a correlation on each disc or if it’s an independent factor that also influences flight.
You went deep. I dig it. We may need episode 2 on this.
I'm working on that episode 2. It may take me some time. I need a drone. I ideally would be showing flight comparison of many other discs in the same realm as the Destroyer and see what happens. For now I have 6 Kongs and a very tall stack of Forces that I'm trying to learn about.
Great job... Went to the garage and grabbed a rivet immediately
This helped me pick exactly the Destoyers I wanted. No more surprises.
Youve got me measuring all my destroyers! Thanks for all this effort, you really uncovered some secrets here!
find that golden destroyer then hang it up and never throw it again.
doing gods work here ....lol good stuff
Why isn’t everyone talking about this!? Great job on the video man!! Really well done
Thank you Shawn! Its started to be come more well known for sure. Maybe I need to make a more concise version 2 that is easier to digest and perhaps it would spread further.
Your attention to detail and communication on your findings is on point! Thank you so much for this video. Answered questions I didn’t know I had lol
That is some great analysis and explains so much about overstability vs understability primarily being in the shape of the wing. Thanks for putting in the work to advance knowledge in the community.
I checked my SDS' and your theories prove true for my 4 SDS that I throw...
Awesome video!!! Thank you very much for all the detail here. I went to Dick's this morning and came home with 2 Star Destroyers. One 150g, one 161g. The light one had a bigger gap than the heavier one. Neither one seemed as severe as the disks you showed here that were OS. These are both PMc 4x stamped *D's .. FYI, if you're in the store and don't have a rivet, a debit/credit card works well for eye balling the gap. Bottom line, I just went and threw them and they fly very similar to each other. Neither one is a meat hook. Very usable for my arm! I think the 11g weight difference is why the larger gap disc flies like the smaller gap/heavier disc.
That's so cool to hear you found some nice *D's. It sounds like you have 2 great throwers! The debit/credit card idea is perfect. I've been in a few stores now and have just been staring at the wing because I hadn't thought to take out my credit card. I'm gonna use your trick from now on :)
Also important is the dome shape and stiffness when speculating on stability. Generally the flatter and softer, the less over stable in my experience. I only throw champion destroyers and they vary drastically. Some are dead straight while others are meat hooks.
This makes sense to me and why my destroyer wasn't acting the way i was expecting it to. Thank you!
Dude! Thanks for the video. So I’m a wraith thrower and have a huge stack that I work through for backups and field work and out of 9 that I had just in my office, I saw the same variations that for the most part correlated with what I thought was the more overstable to understable. An even more interesting thought is my wife has a sponsorship where she asked for a dx Valkyrie so she can have a hyzerflip Valkyrie till one broken in. The person went in the wearhouse and picked her out a champion 150 weight that was the most understandable brand new disc I’ve ever thrown. Just ran to the car to grab it and compare to her other Valkyries and sure enough even though the mold is still clearly a valk mold there is less of a gap on the flippy champ then her other discs. Sounds like they know a little something about this already.
You are welcome! That's so cool that your wife has a sponsorship, congrats to her! Innova is probably extremely aware of this. I imagine it is even a point of contention when Discmania for example is having to deal with poor consistency of their PD2s(I'm assuming, have not tested PD2s). '
Thanks for the work you put into this video. I've recently started purchasing Destroyers and the first two are 4X and completely useless for distance. I just picked up a 145 and 166 Wysocki and they aren't even close to being the same disc. I pulled them out during the rivet portion of the video and they aren't even close to being the same disc. The 4x has the huge gap and the Wysocki versions are flat. One Wysocki has Made in the USA, the other does not and they are slightly different in angle as well. I can see both of those in my bag, so much more distance. I can't wait to actually measure to see how drastic they are yardage.
I grabbed my "throwable" destroyers (from my bag) and compared them to my pile of destroyers I don’t use...this was absolutely correct! I have 4 destroyers in different plastics (2xGStar, 1xPro, 1xChampion) that I throw all the time, I love them! And they all seem to be a “.2mm” type from your chart. I have 6 destroyer that sit in my garage and all of them looked like your “.65mm” pictures.
Nice find my friend
I also have “throwable” Archons and found the same thing. My “good” discs all have the same shape, and the ones in my garage that I can’t throw, had a significantly deeper groove.
Thank you! I have ordered a few Destroyers since I finally reached the point where I threw multiple discs at around 400 ft. Now to feel the discs when I get them and figuring their flight!
I knew they were all very different from one another but this blew my mind. I’ve always felt the 164-169 was the sweet spot, but some took longer to break in than others and some got super flippy after a year or so. I have 5 solid ones in my bag now after experimenting with at least 30. Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Hey I know this guy 😂. What's up man
Great video. The wing example is on point. The bottom plate is just a filler and can be changed around. The molds are 3-piece (top-plate/bottom-wing/bottom-plate).
Thank you. I wish I knew this before making the video. You can see the 2 different parting seams of the mold and that verifies the 3 piece mold as you say.
Fantastic work. I really appreciate your attention to detail. Especially after you realized there was a difference from one side of the disc to the other, scrapped your data, and started again with 3 measurements per disc. Inconsistent from run to run, inconsistent within the same batch, and even inconsistent within the same disc from one end to the other. Yeah that bubble on the one side of the wing is possible a tip-off. Also- the 3 grind block vs 4 grind block somehow felt like an "Ah-Ha!" moment in a crime drama! Now Ive gotta check mine out of curiosity.
Someone commented about how higher PLH means more overstability. Yes, generally true but I imagine the PLH to be the same among all Destroyers. This video is about the shape of the wing itself and how it varies drastically among Destroyers. Specifically that the deeper the concavity, the more overstable the flight with early and dumpy fade.. If the wing is flat like a board, Doth Savek finds it flies more understable and much much FURTHER for him. 330 ish vs 450. 450' is a crush man!
Thank you for the comments! Yes 450 is very good for me. The down side is that now there is video proof of 450 being my limit I can no longer brag about throwing 600ft like everyone else on the internet haha.
@@DothSavek Haha. If you can throw 450 on a cold day, I believe you prob throw 500 in the summer when you're all warmed up. The trick is to have a known reference and a dude on zoom, and of course your trusty old white PFN Destroyer. As a side note, I max out now at 380-400, and I think 450 is the next milestone. I prob wont get there as Im 42 already.
Excellent breakdown, this connected a lot of dots and explains how I got a Valkyrie that flies identically to a Thunderbird.
Ordering online is such a lottery now.
I've noticed the same thing with every mold, never had the focus to complete this kind of a study. Thanks for helping to confirm things in my mind.
This is a more organized study than most colleges do. AND HE REALIZED A MISTAKE AND STARTED OVER. That is true honest science. Excellent video. I've always wanted to know which features of a disc provide the physics for different aspects of how the disc flies. Ex. Dome= longer flight. So does that depth of the rim that you are measuring equate to stability? Maybe not ALL of the factors that effect stability but one of them?
This comment made me smile all day! Thanks for the kind words. I think all the shape factors effect multiple aspects of flight. I really am not close to grasping all the dynamics. I just know that on Destroyers the bottom of the wing is a huge and easily identifiable factor in stability.
Thank you for the knowledge my friend! Awesome review of the destroyer. I went ahead and checked all of my favorite discs and noticed similar discrepancies 'within the same run'. One thing I'd like to point out is that the same disc, but different run, had even greater differences. The most extreme I found was with two of my star plastic mambas. The bezel on the rim on one has 4 gradients, the other has 3, and they fly completely different (the 4 gradient is 'meat hook' - which is nuts the mamba is designed to shoot off to the right!).
Loved the video! Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Ive been saying this for years. Yes it is the mold but it goes for most all companies. The key is learning what you like. Great info! Thanks very much
Wow one of the best disc reviews I’ve ever seen
I have extremely similar findings yo yours. I actively seek straight-winged destroyers for my go to distance slot. If I need a headwind destroyer, I look for angle in the wing.
CSG1027 if you are looking for flat wing destroyers check out some g stars. I have lost all of my all run stars and I found a flat winged gstar that is as stiff as star but is gummy. When I was checking other g stars out I found that a lot of them are shaped identically to the more sought after flat ones.
Did I miss the measurement on your favorite white PFN Destroyer? Is it flat across the wing?
Maybe this knowledge is out there for research, but this is the first I've heard it; and I loved it! You kind of know instinctively the more of one mold you throw, but this gives at least a bit of explanation. The grind thing was a real eye opener for me.
I just checked the 3 Star Destroyers I have sitting on my desk and 2 of them have the grind marks. One looks like the same 3 grind block and the other is the 4 grind block. Same exact pattern. The third is a halo cfr and does not have any grind block marking. (New mold???) I'll check my 4x McBeth later. I also have worked in injection molding and what you were saying about gravity and not letting the plastic set before cooling makes a ton of sense. This is so awesome.
This video was very enlightening and great info for people to know! I just bought a 175g Champion Glow Destroyer and before I even went out to throw it I knew it was going to be quite an understable driver because it has a flat slightly negative rim.
dude you are killin it! thanks for doing this research
What would be helpful, and possibly even a selling point for any manufacturer that chooses to incorporate this feature, would be to have a "MOLD NUMBER" stamp added to the disc, allowing for more consistency when consumers make purchases. The consumer would maybe gain from that consistency, one less variable,,,, as we have found there are many variables to consider; i.e. plastics, cool times, humidity at time of production, colorants, etc....
DG forensics! You geeked so hard on this and I love it. I think this is a huge problem for the manufacturers though. On one end of the spectrum, they're not even Destroyers anymore. Just call it something else already.
You need to check rim width also. I have found variation in the beast. Older disc have a slightly narrower rim and for me fly stable at weights of 165-167. Newer discs have a slightly wider rim and fly very over stable at weights 140 and above. I am using the blizzard plastic.
This is the best disc review video on the internet. Thank you, keep up the good work
Thanks you!!!
Great vid. Issues brought up in this video are actually why I don’t throw much innova. I throw discs I find to be very consistently molded, and it didn’t take me long to realize innova can be all over the place
I was somewhat aware of this problem and I have always wondered why people went after these “rare” destroyers instead of using more understable molds with similar hand feel.
Oh boy .. this was such a revelation for me. Thanks. I had to do some testing today with my in-bag destroyers, and discarded destroyers. I have 2 champ and 1 star 4x that are total meathooks and have to be thrown at severe anny to hold any form of line - correlated perfectly with your testing of the rim with the rivet. My other star and one champion fly exactly the way theyre supposed to. In addition i have a Scorpius that also flies perfectly - i suspect this to be from the same mold, or from a blueprint copy of the destroyer mold. I have a weak arm, so this reassured me that discarding the meathooks were the right decision. I struggle to throw them further than 150 feet. The others i max out easily (350 feet, my max distance).
Again, thanks. Fantastic work!
You are welcome! I'm glad this information is helping you!
The mini stamped star destroyers are in a category of their own when it comes to the major mold deviation from run to run, too.
What an amazing video...the way it was set up felt like I was witnessing detective work about government secrets or something haha, great stuff!
I have a new Ricky star destroyer with MADE IN U.S.A. on it. The madeinusa stamp is a positive on the disc, not negative -- same as the Innova champion discs blurb of text. But the 'DESTROYER' stamp in the middle is a negative. Don't see any block marks. It looks like there's at least 3 molds then. The valley in the profile is in the middle of your spectrum.
I've noticed this with ALL Innova drivers. I seem to have the least variance with DX plastic, it gets chewed up but at least it's cheap.
Can we get a new one? Adding the SockiBot stamps, Wysocki stock stamp, and maybe even new ones for this year?
My man!!! That's some A+ analytics right there! Finally explains why my 2-line AJ and embossed F2 have nearly identical PLH, but undeniably different flight patterns.
I would just add one thing....if I may:
If it's a beefy Destroyer anyone's after, just get a PD2 or Xcal. It's really not worth the time and money. Especially if buying online is your only option.
Other than that, I'm cool with the variations; (currently bagging 3).
awesome analysis, thanks for putting measured data to what I've been trying to figure out by just gripping on and throwing different runs. I immediately grabbed my stack and started measuring, and there is definitely a direct correlation, my most stable all have a much deeper wing.
I watch all of your channel. You are incredibly articulate and an absolute pleasure to watch. Thanks for everything you do and keep the videos coming.
@Jake Rodee Thank you for the compliment. Nice words like these keep me inspired. Stay tuned! I am just editing footage tonight. Should be recording the first in a series of disc reviews this week. Starting with the 2x Ricky Destroyers! Can't wait to see how this works out.
I'm new to disc golf...So of course I had to get a Destroyer when I was ready to start bombing discs. Sometimes I can get my Destroyer to go 350, but I have to do it on an Annhyzer release and flex it out there. It's a Philo Team Champion glo disc with that pastel blue color. I've heard different color plastics cool at different rates too so maybe that plays a part as well, but Its an overstable fairway driver for me most of the time..I've switched to an orange Corvette for distance and it's been doing great. It's a laser beam off the tee with a consistant fade at the very end of its flight
I’m in the exact same boat. My Ricky destroyer is so stable that I have to throw it far out right on an anhyzer and it still flips and dives down edge first. I just ordered a corvette, tern, and mamba to try to get the results you got.
@@justinjenco9417 Love all 3 of those discs...Now that I'm a year in I can finally throw those discs I couldn't a year ago...The Tern is a great choice, Corvette is a great backhand and forehand discs in Star plastics..If you really wanna get distance at your experience level, get a Prodigy D6!! ..You won't regret it I promise...It can follow you as you get better and turn into a hyzer flip disc, and finally it will be your roller disc as you get better...They are hard to find, but don't pass 1 up if you happen to find one.
Same concept with star wraiths as well. They vary so much its insane. I heard a rumor if you check the very edge in the middle theres an incredibly small plastic line where the mold was potential brought together (don't know specifics on molding so this could be wrong) but I heard when the line is closer to the top of the plate its more OS and vice versa, but your theory with the mold drying and drooping is a pretty cool find. Great video.
NickPaulMusic you talking about PLH parting line height?
That's the parting line. Higher parting lines correspond to overstable discs and lower parting lines to understable. Basically, the more weight at the top of the disc, the more OS, the more weight at the bottom, the more US.
This is such a good video. Totally backs up my experience with my two destroyers. Champion way flatter, more understable. Mcbeth Star much more scooped and a total meathook.
* found this absolutely fascinating . . . i was a bit harsh commenting on your last video - [bag review] - the first one i've viewed by you. bad day, & i had a few beers . . . just wanted to say - job well done !
Thanks!
Thank you very much for your time and efforts. This was a huge help not only to better understand how and why discs fly the way they do, but also to be able to more precisely find the discs that fly better for myself. The attention to detail and research you committed to was profound. Much gratitude.
Great video! This is so helpful! I bought a champion destroyer online and it is definitely the way over stable type. It was a forehand only disc for me and always finished hard right for me. As it got beat in, I'm getting a lot more distance out of it and can throw it backhand now as well. It's turned out to be a much more useful disc over time, but it's taken some hard tree hits to get to that point.
Also something worth noting about the NEW REAL Ricky Destroyers (which I do believe are the ones with the "Made in USA" on it. I have one), is that there are air bubbles in the wing at much higher weights. I have a 171g (scaled) Ricky Destroyer and there are air bubbles in the rim. This must mean that they are also balancing the weight a little differently (more evenly by taking weight away from the thick wing and adding it to the thinner flight plate). Has anyone else noticed this?
There are air bubbles in the rim of many of my Ricky Destroyers that do have the grind blocks. Also I was told and have confirmed that the molds are 3 price. The bottom peice is the one with the grind blocks or Made In USA. This bottom peice is not specific to destroyers. It gets changed around and that is why you can see the exact samw pattern grind blocks on PDs for example.
@@DothSavek I'm just wondering though if for the "Ricky Destroyers" they are CHOOSING to add the air bubbles to the rim to change the weight distribution, and what impact that has on the flight (I buy mostly 170-171g destroyers and none of them before the Ricky had air bubbles in the rim, and we're talking like "blizzard" level air bubbles, so it must affect weight dist. / flight in some way?)
@@djwatson82 hmm I dont know. I have quite a few new discs that are now having those bubbles and striations in them. For example I have an AviarX3 that I just got in my Ricky Subscription box and it has those bubble marks. Its a mystery to me.
doth savek the plot thickens!
Would love to see a comparison of PLHs (parting line heights) of those discs as well. Thanks for the video. I appreciate the work you did.
The parting line height it what causes that gap. You can see it change when he switches pictures.
Inside diameter is also different on lots of runs. I re-fabricate discs and I noticed I had to change adapters several times when buffing destroyers.
this is some of the best disc golf info ive ever seen and ive been playing for 15+ years
Thanks! I sure wish I had known about this earlier. Would have saved me plenty of confusion
2 days ago i got a live stream in my recommended of your sasquatch review and thought id listen to you while at work. I really enjoyed the stream and how detailed you were so i subscribed because im looking for a new bag soon and figured this was right on time. i watched quite a few of your videos over the last couple of days and was just recommended this video and got a good laugh when i saw this comment above. helped me find a handful of great destroyers and now 2 years later helping me find a great bag. im subscribed now keep up the awesome work man.
I'm glad know this now. Before watching this video if I went and picked up ANY new disc and I found it unusable, I'd just determine that the disc wasn't for me or I just wasn't strong enough to throw it properly... but now, thanks to you, I know that one disc is not representative of the whole line... in any way. I'd be interested to see a quality/consistency comparison between manufacturers.
Definitely not just destroyers. Friend has a Mamba that is a meat hook, I had this problem with the Colossus four disc G star same weight all different flights.
If you have a disc golf store in your area you could look for a specific wing but that doesn't online.
I switched manufactures to MVP and found the consistency to be way better but not without issue, I have owned 8 Octanes purchased over about two years and they all fly the same other than weight difference. I think all companies have issues with consistency of flight and the high volume that Innova does could be the reason they have greater inconsistency.
Not hating, I picked up two Wysockie Destroyers that I like and am currently bagging.
Interesting... I'd be curious about other discs as well
I hope you can do this with other companies
@@tylercolby2011 Working on it now. Discraft is in my bag.
This video was done so incredibly well. Being new to the sport, I found it very informative. I just picked up a Millennium Scorpio’s in the Sirius plastic and flipped it over to see the 3 grind marks on it. I know Innova makes these, but it was interesting to see that it’s basically a Destroyer.....and actually pretty flat and not as overstable as the Destroyers I have gotten. The C-line FDs I have are 4 grinds, but I don’t know which Innova mold this would share.
Thank you! I would like to try some Scorpius, not sure when, but I'm gonna keep my eyes peeled. Fds probably share a bottom plate with leopards, teebirds, ect.
doth savek I think you’re exactly right about the FDs. I have a few leopards and they do seem very similar. The Scorpius probably flies better for me than any of the 4 grind star destroyers I have and is very similar to the 3 grind pro destroyer. The “rivet” test gave me something to look for when picking discs.
Great video! I for one love how much variety I can get out of so few molds and this will help me find exactly what I'm shopping for. Thank you!
You sir, are the first disc golf scientist I've come across. I really enjoy your content.
Thank you! I appreciate the compliment
Wow, thank you so much for this video. I've always thrown mostly innova, but now I think I might stray away because of these major inconsistencies.
All discs have them some worse than others
Like your methodological approach, subbed
Thank you!
This is the exact reason why I stopped throwing Innova 4-5years ago, To find 2 discs alike from them is harder than any other brand. Im not saying other brands dont have same issues but as I currently throw mixed Latitude / Discmania bag, I haven't had those wtf moments I had with innova.
It has been quite common knowledge imo tho, have you seen mcbeth walk to a park with a cardboardbox full of roc's ? Why would he need to throw 30 of them to find the one he likes :)
Really well documented information . Thank you !
"spectrum of stabilities" YESSSS!!!!! Someone finally gets it!!!!
I LOVE my destroyers. I was given one as a joke because I did not have the arm to control it at all. For my first year with it it was just a funny dirt dart. It was always hilarious to watch it turnover and then just dive bomb the turf. But since then I've learned how to throw it and it's one of my go-to's on every outing. My Destroyer is one of the few discs that I instantly replace upon losing or damaging it. It's interesting to see that me learning how to throw it could just be me finding a destroyer shape that matches my arm. Now I need to go check my bag since I have two separate destroyers in there.
Just bought my first Ricky Wysocki Star Destroyer. I'm only a year in to disc golf and knew different plastics fly differently, but had no idea there were so many variances in the same disc molds! I'll have to check mine out and hope I got lucky.
Half way through I had to check the two wraiths I have. Both star but different runs. Same thing you have found! Interesting and something I will look at when buying discs. Great content
So true. My 2 line Jenkins was my first ace disc and the best driver I ever had. Got like 2 Paul’s and one Ricky you can set a match to.
Love this. Wish I would have seen this sooner. What's so wild is that my PFN Destroyers are pretty overstable. My Proto Star *D looks to fly like your PFN Destroyer. My favorites to find are the ones in the middle ground and this is going to help me greatly!
Really great content brother! You answered my confusion on hyzer flips with different destroyers and getting star molds to flip up.
I love Innova's QA process. No way for the average person to have any faith in the product they are buying.
This is the best @innova video ever made. Thank you.
I throw the innova daedalus and they also vary wildly in stability and feel.
I love the detail you put into this video👏
I am so happy that you made this video, I knew something was up with Destroyers.
I bought two Discmania DDX discs last summer. I definitely noticed that even tho the two were visually identical, the other one was consistently more understable than the other. So i marked the more understable one with a marker. Now after seeing this video, i compared the wings with a straight rivet and noticed the more understable one has way less curve in the wing.
Then i checked both of my Discmania PD2s. They both fly pretty equal to each other, so i only carry one of them at a time. And again i checked the wing and they are pretty much identical. I also noticed they both have that 100% identical 4 grind block "fingerprint" in the bottom. So most likely PD2 uses the Destroyer bottom mold.
My only Destroyer is a 4x PMB Star Destroyer, with pretty curvy wing and it's a 3 grind block one. And it's pretty overstable and was hard to turn over when it was brand new.
Rumor has it that Innova changed their cooling time from 35 seconds to 28 seconds and they’re also using a different glue mix for their plastics and that causes a lot of the inconsistencies in each disc.
Somebody has to give a call out to your dog. I'm glad you tossed him a ball every once in awhile :)
This is crazy! You should be a detective. Such good information. Thank you!!
Although I’ve never had a Destroyer ( and probably never will) I just buy F2 discs and learn how to throw them in a field. Of course I’m merely an amateur who will probably never own even 5% of the number of discs in the background. But for the hardcore research types, this looks like an excellent approach to getting the perfect disc.
Great video. This is why its good to watch In the Bag and Pro Tour vids. They do talk about stuff like this. You definitely do a better job of breaking down the differences, though. Now, if you can just tell me why ALL of the Destroyer "lines" turned on me lol. I kicked them out of my bag because all of a sudden no Destroyer will fly right for me. It's a "me" problem, for sure. Thanks for the vid and keep it up :)
I've learned so much from this video, absolutely awesome! I went through some of my discs and your method helped me sort them. Later on the course they all flew true to the measurements! I will also use this at the shop to pick and compare new purchases! Thanks for a fantastic vid.
Thank you soo much. I couldnt find any overstable destroyers, but now i know why! I found a beautiful poptop that acted almost like an x-cal, but on my second round with it, it kicked into a swamp...😭. Thank yiu for the new info
This really bugs me. If there's one thing that you want in disc golf it's consistency. I've only ever thrown Innova but this might be the nail in the coffin to make some changes. Great video sir. Shoutout to Disc Golf Nerd for recommending this video to me. 👍👊
All manufacturers have some degree of inconsistency, but I think that Kastaplast is pretty consistent in their molds.
Subbed. I noticed this across a few innova driver molds last year, and ended up swapping out my bag to another manufacturer. The inconsistency was maddening. Glad to see this information out in the community...just wish I had seen this video sooner!
Great job! I hope the manufacturers take a look at their process! My friend is a metal polisher that works on forms like this. I am sending it to him
Thank you! I have sent multiple e-mails to Innova and unfortunately they refuse to respond. :( Edit: Innova did respond by sending an email to me today. I've asked if they are ok with me sharing their statement online. If they give me the ok I will post their reply.
@@DothSavek did you ever post the reply?
@@bestvolibearuseast We apologize for the delayed response to your email. Thanks for your kind words and thoughtful video; you raise a lot of great questions here.
All Destroyers are made with the same mold, and the slight variances between runs is a normal part of the production process that can actually be an asset. There isn't one singular intended Destroyer--while Dave prefers his own Destroyers to have a mild, uniform dome and a rounded shoulder, the truth is (as you noted in your video) there are different Destroyers for different players. It sounds like your video is helping people figure out exactly what they're looking for in a Destroyer so they can shop with confidence, and we certainly commend that.
We're constantly innovating in production and design, and listening to customer feedback is a huge part of that. Thank you for participating in the process.
Best,
Jessi Dunipace
@@DothSavek thanks so much for taking the time to reply, means a lot
@@bestvolibearuseast you are welcome!
Hi, Kevin - Thanks for doing the research on gap depth/concavity-stability correlations and presenting your discoveries! I have a question. I have no data on this, but it’s the commonly understood that discs become less stable as they are thrown more. The conventional wisdom is that hitting the ground, trees, etc., dings up the nose and bends it down, i.e., lowers “parting line height”(PLH). However, doesn’t lowering PLH actually increase the gap depth, rather than decreasing it? After all the bottom rim, where the bead would be, doesn’t change, and neither (I’m guessing) does the deepest point of the concave wing-or not much. It seems that only the outside edge/nose drops. *If* that’s correct and gap depth were the primary factor determining stability, shouldn’t discs get more stable as they are broken in?
I’m guessing there’s a formula for this that takes into account gap depth *and* PLH, among other less important factors. On the other hand, maybe I’m wrong. Maybe breaking in a disc pushes the nose in, bulging out the wing, thereby decreasing the concavity/gap depth. I’d love to see some data on this! Have you thrown those Ricky Dees enough to see any change in their flight patterns since you first tested them? If so, have you re-measured their gaps?
That's very interesting. Ive not taken any hard measurements on PLH, but instead compare on disc side by side with the next. I doubt wing gap changes but the entire wing angle might. Im not really sure all the things that might be happening as a disc breakes in, but the flight does change thats for sure. I will ponder this a bit and see if I come up with any ideas for doing a before and after sort of test. Thanks for the info
bar none the definitive review of a disc ever made. very educational about this disc and by proxy, all discs.
Wow dude!! Great job.
I knew I’ve had irreplaceable discs before.. not only for the memories, but those ones that will never fly like the OG
This seems like a sure fire way of measuring PLH - something I’ve given up on. From now on I’ll be much more able to cherry pick my west side Worlds.