Good job for your DIY, as a plumber your vanity is fine, your shower and toilet are wet vented correctly, the 2” vent on top of the tee after the long sweep is unnecessary...your laundry is not vented because that 3” coming down becomes a waste stack...instead that 2” you connected to the tee should come down to all the way between the tee and the ptrap of the laundry, other than that good job
Thanks I apreciate it. You just confirmed what I thought the issues were and were not. It's funny to see all the comments of people though. I don't claim to be a pro by any means but I tried to do my research and the reference book I had was pretty detailed and had all of the requirments room by room, as well as all of the charts for pipe sizes etc, so I had checked all of the wet vent lengths and pipe sizes before installing them. I didn't realize the laundry issue until after drywall was up, but we're planning on doing an incinerator toilet in the second floor which will probably help since it won't have any water flowing most of the time (We just won't take a shower with the washer going). Thanks for watching, and the comment!
That is illegal. That 2” trap became an S trap after he glued in to the 3x2 combo (wich should be a sanitary tee ) . If he used a San tee and made an actual p trap , the 3” would still vent that. It would become a wet vent . Still good.
@@graysferrygunna7342 it would not be a wet vent because the water closet is upstream of the 3" where the laundry ties in. that slug of water coming down from that toilet could potentially blow out or siphon that 2" trap. All he needed to do was add a back vent to the Laundry trap and run it upstairs and tie in above flood level rim.
9:30 I am not trying to be "that guy," but I think the two sinks should have connected to the stack with a double Tee Wye. As your left sink drains it will create negative pressure that could suck the water out of the left P trap.
So that's probably a better way to do it, our inspector didn't mention it at all, so I don't think it's a code violation, but I would agree that the chances of the water being sucked out is probably greater... we honestly couldn't find a double t in the correct size locally so we just did it this way... the only other reason why I could see it not being a violation is if you think of that vertical pipe as a main stack, you would have multiple horizontals coming into it at different levels, which is allowed... but short answer, ideally a double t would have been the way to go! Thanks for watching!
@@PootsPastures I had already given you a "thumbs up" before you replied. I am not one of those Code Nazis that attempts to prove their own knowledge. Good video. You demonstrate much more knowledge than many journeymen plumbers that have been doing this for years.
Every place that you put stress on that abs pipe will snap in the future. Youll be sitting on the couch and hear a crack sound and wonder what it was. Eventually youll smell it. But you wont know where it is without cutting the walls open again. In the future, “never put stress on the abs”
Not supposed to be a how to video, just showing our process and how we are doing it. And I've been thinking about where we put stress on the abs, and there were several times we flexed the pipe to get all the fittings connected but I can't think of a spot where there is any substantial stress on the pipe. If you think about it everywhere it is supported there is sheer stress especially once it has the weight of water running through it, I hope it doesn't sheer at all those points that are at the correct code required distance! Thanks for watching! And make sure to subscribe to see more how to videos by somone that doesn't know what they are doing!
This little th-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
Double fixture fitting would be the best to use for double vanity. Always use a 2*1-1/2*1-1/2*1-1/2 abs double fixture fitting for my double vanity drain lines.
@@alanratliff6982 some places you can find them but some places don't have them. I mainly find abs double fixture fittings out in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, or Arizona.
Horizontal to vertical/perpendicular transitions where the water will flow toward the sewer should use a sanitary tee. Sanitary tees can also be used for venting, in which case they'd be flipped to accommodate any water flow coming from the vent (i.e., from the roof when it rains or condensation). You have two instances of a combo wye instead of a sanitary tee being used - that main stack joint (which could restrict air) and for the laundry (which created an S-trap). Would be surprised if you ever have an issue and it's been 3 years so you'd know by know, haha, but for those watching this, the use of the described fittings is not correct. You would use the combo wye when transitioning from a vertical drop into a horizontal pipe below (or you can use it horizontal to horizontal if it's convenient). Also, your 90-degree correction could have been more easily accomplished by using a long-sweep 90 or two-45s (one of them being a street fitting) -- highly doubt your inspector would have forced you to do some kind of cleanout if you did (he'd be having a bad day if he made you do so). I would personally have put a cleanout at the laundry connection above that kickover, but can't say if it would be required in your case as I didn't see what's under that floor.
Pro tip I learned from a guy that does fish tanks is to hold the PVC (or I guess ABS) joints for 30 seconds. He said they expand slightly, and it will help if you want your dry fit lengths to be spot on.
Thanks for sharing! Some of the gluing processes could come back and haunt you in future. Just out of curiosity, at around 12:42, that vent pipe could have been over the joists rather than making 2" holes in those studs which ultimately weakens the structure pillars holding the weight. I hope you did 💯. Good luck
I think the time stamp is wrong, but I do know what you are talking about, and our original plan was to make that all storage space so I wanted to keep the pipe as far out of the way as possible, but looking back, I could have just mounted it against the wall and then I wouldn't have to cut the studs, and it also would not be in the way of storage, thanks for watching!
That's awesome! One thing I learned that wasn't in the video was use more glue than you think you need on every connection!! Also the code reference book was a life saver and made things easy to understand! Good luck with your project!!
7:49 barely any pipe went into that coupling definitely not enough, you will have a problem with this in the future if you havent already. 1:25 MAJOR PROBLEM you cant stack sanitary tees like that. Will cause a siphon and gas to come into the living space.
It's hard to track on the video, but being down in the crawlspace the pipe moved up at least 3" I went from only being able to fit my finger tips under the pipe to leveraging the pipe up with a 2x6 which really did the trick, but when she said I was as far as I could go we were starting to bow the upper section, so I'm pretty confident in it. And I've covered the sanitary T issue in other comments, but to sum it up I'm not too worried about it. Thanks for watching!
I'm a subscriber now! Great reminder about venting and the clean outs at 90 degree angles. Just curious what code you're following? I'm in upstate ny and it seems code is pretty strict, but as I'm tearing apart our house I'm seeing none of the diligence you're exhibiting. I'm sure thats why im running into so many issues now....
Glad you're enjoying our videos! We followed 2012 residential plumbing code. If you are doing a remodel you're probably seeing plumbing that was done a long time ago so the codes (if there were any) would be a lot looser. Good luck with your project!
I was origionally going to use floor trusses, however every lumber yard/ truss company I contacted for a design and quote wouldn't get back to me, and didn't answer emails or calls so I got fed up. Otherwise I wanted to clear span our 20' width so I didn't have to place a beam in the middle which limited our choice of lumber to either grade 1 2x lumber or 2x12's. The I joists were more appealing because they would be alot lighter, and perfectly straight, the cost would have been about the same for 2x12 or the joists because our 2x spacing would have had to be closer together. I hope that helps answer your question.
In theory yes the drains could back up into the shower, but that can happen at most any house, I'm not sure of a way to keep that from happening though. If you were to block the pipe down stream of the shower and toilet the water would just back up and the shower drain is lower then the toilet so the waste would come out the shower drain first.
@@PootsPastures The shower scenario I am referencing is in regard to the horizontal plane, the shower is "behind and above" the toilet or to the "left and behind and above the toilet". So, a better description is thus: When you walk into the entryway of the bathroom the toilet is the first fixture to the right; if you continue to walk straight past toilet, the shower is there and also to the right, but there is a "step-up" into the shower so it actually sits higher than the toilet or above the toilet in the horizontal plane. There was a toilet leak and the shower leaked 2 days later and clear water came from underneath the shower and sand came out of the shower drain. We have been unable to replicate the leak. We had plumbers over and they did a smoke test from the smoke vent stack on the roof and no smoke reached the bathroom. (We had the toilet off.) It is a septic tank and we plugged the line draining into the septic tank from the house. Thanks for answering.
I don't think I ever read anything that limits the number of bends you have, however if I were to bet, there is a limit. Usually you have a maximum length that the vent can be based on the size of the pipe, and I would guess every time you put a 90 in it the maximum length gets shorter. The dewalt plumbing guide I have listed in the description is what we used and it was awesome, it has really easy charts to follow so that might not be a bad thing to pick up.
I am in Arizona in the U.S. In my area those are the standards adopted for plumbing, you should be able to check with your local building department and they will tell you exactly what code they use and what year revision they use. Our area was still on the 2012 revision when we started. Hope that answers your question!
You should only need a clean out around turns if its accessible like in an unfinished basement you should have needed to put a clean out at least that is the code where I'm from
We have a clean out at every sink, and one in the crawlspace at the top of our main 3" line, and then one at the top of the main stack. Also one outside in between the septic and house. So everywhere there's a 90 there's a horizontal 90 there's a clean out. And We used ABD because it is more prevalent in our area, and we wanted to be able to run to the hardware store to grab an extra fitting instead of having g to order it
@@PootsPastures oh its just wired because the spot you swapped the 2 inch 90 and made it a 45 was different because normally that would allow you to not put a clean out there because its in a joist span and those are not considered accessible spots for a plumber to snake from and are exceptions from the code where I'm from. I thought it was weird about the abs because in the area I live in PVC and ABS are equally available but PVC is preferred do to it costing less and being more flexible to work with.
Oh yes! I forgot we did that! We did swap that 90 for 45's because of that issue so yeah you're right about why we did that. And I deffinately would have preferred PVC, but it worked out alright.
it is in an exterior wall, and yeah we thought it might be an issue, we will see though. We insulated between the sheathing and the drain, and did not put any insulation between the drain and the drywall, hoping that it would keep it a little warmer.
Update! We have had lows in the single didgets for about a month or so now. With highs no higher than 40's. One of our neighbors had their supply lines freeze in their house (which just got done being built) but we've had no issues with anything freezing. We've done laundry in the morning with Temps still well below freezing multiple times with no issues.
Stacking two Santees like that will cause your P trap to syphon out. Using a DOUBLE FIXTURE TEE is the correct connection. That set up is cause for smelly sinks and failed inspections
@@PootsPastures @1:19 the two sinks fitted one on top each other will create a wet valve in one causing sink to drain slowly and suck out ptrap. You should have used a "Y" fitting between the two, hope that explains better.
One more question if you don’t mind. In the plumbing code it says that clean outs are not required by code for plumbing pipes above the lowest level. Is that correct or am I misreading that? Ps...must be rewarding getting through all the stages that you have finished. I’m just now finishing the framing
So I'm not sure what section you're looking at. When I read IPC 708.3.1 - 708.3.6 the places that I saw were everywhere there's a change in horizontal direction more that 45 degrees, and at the base of stacks. It did say that every drain line needed one, which to me means every branch... although we did use the 2012 version of the IPC. The best bet would be to clarify with your local building department, they will tell you exactly what they want to see, and we're always very helpful when I had questions. Hopfully that was somewhat helpful, and I wish you luck in figuring it out, code books are clear as mud!
@Poots Pastures, what would be the difference from this book and a plumbing code book I have? Just curious. You did a good job! Did it tell you about wet vents or what? So, what's the maximum distance 3 duo's can be away from a stack in order to be used as a wet vent?
Not sure what your book is but this book takes all of its material directly from the code so as long as your book does too they should be the same. And to fully answer your question we would need to know drain size, as well as vent size, and the number of drainage fixture units.
The big reason we didn't just run the vents on top of the rafters in the upstairs bathroom is because we want to be able to use that area for storage and didn't want to have to work around the vent.
I’ll be installing the plumbing pipe myself in a few months also. Excellent video, thank you! Quick question - I noticed you tied the drain line downstream of the toilet drain but before the toilet individual vent. Is that allowed?
Glad you enjoyed it! Let me try and see if I can explain this. There are two general ways to vent fixtures. One is to have the vent coming from behind (or upstream) of the fixture drain, and the other is called a wet vent. The wet vent is when the fixture drains into a drain for another fixture and then they are both vented upstream of the the second fixture. These are ok by code there are just certain distances and pipe size requirments depending on the fixture. The way we did it in out crawlspace the toilet is directly downstream from the vent. The way we did it in our upstairs the toilet travels about a foot before it is vented. This second way isn't considered a wet vent, but is within the certain distance required from fixture and vent. It is essentially the same as the way we did it in the crawl space with the difference being that in the crawlspace the flow is away from the wall, and in the second floor the flow is towards the wall. So to sum it up, with everything I have read it is OK. We also have passed our plumbing inspection with no issues. I would suggest picking up some sort of code reference book as it was extremely helpful and easy to use.
I'm terrible at wearing safety glasses. You would think that I would learn, especially since that time I had to get a peice of metal removed from my eye!
Our local store didn't have any 2" san t's going into a 3" and the code allows a combo wye to go from horizontal to vertical, so we just went with that instead of adding all the bushings to the sanitary t. Hope that answers your question.
I think they need an access panel? But I could be wrong. All ours are accessible and it probably is just a good idea to have them accessible even if it isn't code. Thanks for watching!
That may be a requirment in your area but the 2012 (yes our standards are still 2012) IPC section 405 deals with floor outlet plumbing fixtures and makes no mention of the height of the flange from a finished floor (weather it is required to be flush or on top of). It does require the use of a seal to seal the toilet to the flange (which we have a seal that is the proper depth to accomplish this. There was not "MUST" In that code. I see that it is customary in some places to place it on the finished floor but our locality requires the flange to be secured for the inspection (which is well before any finished floor would be installed).
Upstairs Shower wet vents to the sink, they are within 6ft in 2" pipe. The downstairs tub wet vents to the toilet, they are within 4ft in 2". The only one that is a little sketchy is the washer which about an inch or so after the trap dumps into the 3" main stack. In my mind the main stack vented the washer as it extends up about 8 ft before turning into a vent. Inspector didn't say anything about it and we haven't had any problems. I didn't realize the potential issue with the washer until somone gave a constructive and detailed comment about the issue instead of just saying "to many wet vents" with no further details to help anyone that may be trying to learn. Thanks for watching!
The way you used most of your abs fittings is completely wrong. Wet vents everywhere. Combos used completely wrong. I get it, you’re not a plumber. However, you’re gonna have a lot a problems down the road. Plumbing is a science and needs to be done right! Call a pro or do it right next time
Wet vents are allowable by code. What fittings are used wrong? If you are going to say it's wrong give specifics... because you're wrong, or you can give examples and be helpful rather than just saying everything is wrong. I find most of the "plumbers" on here are just scared their gonna lose their job when people find out they are paying way more than they need to be for somthing that is totally able to be done on their own. Thanks for watching.
@@PootsPastures Mr Sparrow is correct, you can't use a San t on a main except for right beneath a toilet. You must use a long sweep. He is also going to have problems with his three wet vents if he ever uses multiple fixtures at once! I own a facilities company and this mickey mouse bullshit would never pass, nor would it be considered professional!
sorry , plumbing is NOT a science. its cutting plastic pipe and gluing it together while assembling branches and a trunk using common sense to create proper drainage.
Should have done... and if there is a particular section you could offer advice for, feel free to leave it in a comment I'm sure it would help some other people out! Thanks for watching!
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
Good job for your DIY, as a plumber your vanity is fine, your shower and toilet are wet vented correctly, the 2” vent on top of the tee after the long sweep is unnecessary...your laundry is not vented because that 3” coming down becomes a waste stack...instead that 2” you connected to the tee should come down to all the way between the tee and the ptrap of the laundry, other than that good job
Thanks I apreciate it. You just confirmed what I thought the issues were and were not. It's funny to see all the comments of people though. I don't claim to be a pro by any means but I tried to do my research and the reference book I had was pretty detailed and had all of the requirments room by room, as well as all of the charts for pipe sizes etc, so I had checked all of the wet vent lengths and pipe sizes before installing them. I didn't realize the laundry issue until after drywall was up, but we're planning on doing an incinerator toilet in the second floor which will probably help since it won't have any water flowing most of the time (We just won't take a shower with the washer going).
Thanks for watching, and the comment!
He said bring your 2" all the way down, but where would your vent be then?
That is illegal. That 2” trap became an S trap after he glued in to the 3x2 combo (wich should be a sanitary tee ) . If he used a San tee and made an actual p trap , the 3” would still vent that. It would become a wet vent . Still good.
@@graysferrygunna7342 it would not be a wet vent because the water closet is upstream of the 3" where the laundry ties in. that slug of water coming down from that toilet could potentially blow out or siphon that 2" trap. All he needed to do was add a back vent to the Laundry trap and run it upstairs and tie in above flood level rim.
your double lav waste should use a double tee wye, that will eliminate that wet vent
9:30 I am not trying to be "that guy," but I think the two sinks should have connected to the stack with a double Tee Wye. As your left sink drains it will create negative pressure that could suck the water out of the left P trap.
So that's probably a better way to do it, our inspector didn't mention it at all, so I don't think it's a code violation, but I would agree that the chances of the water being sucked out is probably greater... we honestly couldn't find a double t in the correct size locally so we just did it this way... the only other reason why I could see it not being a violation is if you think of that vertical pipe as a main stack, you would have multiple horizontals coming into it at different levels, which is allowed... but short answer, ideally a double t would have been the way to go!
Thanks for watching!
@@PootsPastures I had already given you a "thumbs up" before you replied. I am not one of those Code Nazis that attempts to prove their own knowledge. Good video. You demonstrate much more knowledge than many journeymen plumbers that have been doing this for years.
Another how to video by someone who doesnt know the proper how to. Millions of these out here.
Every place that you put stress on that abs pipe will snap in the future. Youll be sitting on the couch and hear a crack sound and wonder what it was. Eventually youll smell it. But you wont know where it is without cutting the walls open again. In the future, “never put stress on the abs”
Not supposed to be a how to video, just showing our process and how we are doing it.
And I've been thinking about where we put stress on the abs, and there were several times we flexed the pipe to get all the fittings connected but I can't think of a spot where there is any substantial stress on the pipe. If you think about it everywhere it is supported there is sheer stress especially once it has the weight of water running through it, I hope it doesn't sheer at all those points that are at the correct code required distance!
Thanks for watching! And make sure to subscribe to see more how to videos by somone that doesn't know what they are doing!
This little th-cam.com/users/postUgkxVoi3B4CB6Oygq1-vo4OTL1M_M5JkrXif tub works perfect in our 6 x 6 shower and is easy to get in and out. Also easy to drain.
Double fixture fitting would be the best to use for double vanity. Always use a 2*1-1/2*1-1/2*1-1/2 abs double fixture fitting for my double vanity drain lines.
I can never find that double wye you mention. Frustrating
@@alanratliff6982 some places you can find them but some places don't have them. I mainly find abs double fixture fittings out in Washington, Oregon, Idaho, or Arizona.
Horizontal to vertical/perpendicular transitions where the water will flow toward the sewer should use a sanitary tee. Sanitary tees can also be used for venting, in which case they'd be flipped to accommodate any water flow coming from the vent (i.e., from the roof when it rains or condensation). You have two instances of a combo wye instead of a sanitary tee being used - that main stack joint (which could restrict air) and for the laundry (which created an S-trap). Would be surprised if you ever have an issue and it's been 3 years so you'd know by know, haha, but for those watching this, the use of the described fittings is not correct. You would use the combo wye when transitioning from a vertical drop into a horizontal pipe below (or you can use it horizontal to horizontal if it's convenient). Also, your 90-degree correction could have been more easily accomplished by using a long-sweep 90 or two-45s (one of them being a street fitting) -- highly doubt your inspector would have forced you to do some kind of cleanout if you did (he'd be having a bad day if he made you do so). I would personally have put a cleanout at the laundry connection above that kickover, but can't say if it would be required in your case as I didn't see what's under that floor.
excellent book recommendation, really is going to save me some headache
I felt the same way!!
Great Job guys ... thanks for sharing and God bless your new home
Thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Pro tip I learned from a guy that does fish tanks is to hold the PVC (or I guess ABS) joints for 30 seconds. He said they expand slightly, and it will help if you want your dry fit lengths to be spot on.
Yeah I found that they did expand a little if you didn't hd them in place! But it's a great tip, and it deffinately helps the glue joint
Hands on, the only way to learn, keep on plumbing...
Before drilling any grass or lam beam, check the specs on where and how big it can be drilled..
Yep! We made sure that all of our holes were well within the manufacturers requirments!
the T's on vertical stacks should all be sanitary T's. The long sweep 90 T is going to close off the venting to the horizontals.
The double sink requires a wye instead of two San tees stacked,
Great video very informative. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing! Some of the gluing processes could come back and haunt you in future.
Just out of curiosity, at around 12:42, that vent pipe could have been over the joists rather than making 2" holes in those studs which ultimately weakens the structure pillars holding the weight. I hope you did 💯.
Good luck
I think the time stamp is wrong, but I do know what you are talking about, and our original plan was to make that all storage space so I wanted to keep the pipe as far out of the way as possible, but looking back, I could have just mounted it against the wall and then I wouldn't have to cut the studs, and it also would not be in the way of storage, thanks for watching!
Awesome work here. Just what I was looking for.. Thanks much for sharing 🚽
Thank you! And glad you enjoyed it!
Great video!
This video is going to make me tackle my plumbing by myself. Thanks
That's awesome! One thing I learned that wasn't in the video was use more glue than you think you need on every connection!! Also the code reference book was a life saver and made things easy to understand! Good luck with your project!!
The Chipmunks build a bathroom!
Thats what we think we are editing the videos
@@PootsPastures in all seriousness, it was a quality video. Thanks for posting.
7:49 barely any pipe went into that coupling definitely not enough, you will have a problem with this in the future if you havent already. 1:25 MAJOR PROBLEM you cant stack sanitary tees like that. Will cause a siphon and gas to come into the living space.
It's hard to track on the video, but being down in the crawlspace the pipe moved up at least 3" I went from only being able to fit my finger tips under the pipe to leveraging the pipe up with a 2x6 which really did the trick, but when she said I was as far as I could go we were starting to bow the upper section, so I'm pretty confident in it. And I've covered the sanitary T issue in other comments, but to sum it up I'm not too worried about it. Thanks for watching!
@@PootsPastures thanks for sharing the video.
Where can you get the Book ( Dewaltz's Plumbing Codes) that you mentioned?
looking good, thanks for sharing
I'm a subscriber now! Great reminder about venting and the clean outs at 90 degree angles. Just curious what code you're following? I'm in upstate ny and it seems code is pretty strict, but as I'm tearing apart our house I'm seeing none of the diligence you're exhibiting. I'm sure thats why im running into so many issues now....
Glad you're enjoying our videos! We followed 2012 residential plumbing code. If you are doing a remodel you're probably seeing plumbing that was done a long time ago so the codes (if there were any) would be a lot looser. Good luck with your project!
Well done. From cost perspective what is the difference between I joist and floor trusses? Why did you not prefer 2x10 for floor joists
I was origionally going to use floor trusses, however every lumber yard/ truss company I contacted for a design and quote wouldn't get back to me, and didn't answer emails or calls so I got fed up. Otherwise I wanted to clear span our 20' width so I didn't have to place a beam in the middle which limited our choice of lumber to either grade 1 2x lumber or 2x12's. The I joists were more appealing because they would be alot lighter, and perfectly straight, the cost would have been about the same for 2x12 or the joists because our 2x spacing would have had to be closer together.
I hope that helps answer your question.
@@PootsPastures : thanks!!!
2 inch double fixture fitting would of been better.
Good work ... 👍California codes little different
Thanks! And yeah I'm sure they are pretty relaxed here even though we still have inspections.
We are also operating off of the 2012 code so even though it's 8 years old that's what our country had when we got the permit.
For your drain pipes, is there any way the toilet could cause a backup into the shower on a ground floor and if so how would that occur?
In theory yes the drains could back up into the shower, but that can happen at most any house, I'm not sure of a way to keep that from happening though. If you were to block the pipe down stream of the shower and toilet the water would just back up and the shower drain is lower then the toilet so the waste would come out the shower drain first.
@@PootsPastures The shower scenario I am referencing is in regard to the horizontal plane, the shower is "behind and above" the toilet or to the "left and behind and above the toilet". So, a better description is thus: When you walk into the entryway of the bathroom the toilet is the first fixture to the right; if you continue to walk straight past toilet, the shower is there and also to the right, but there is a "step-up" into the shower so it actually sits higher than the toilet or above the toilet in the horizontal plane. There was a toilet leak and the shower leaked 2 days later and clear water came from underneath the shower and sand came out of the shower drain. We have been unable to replicate the leak. We had plumbers over and they did a smoke test from the smoke vent stack on the roof and no smoke reached the bathroom. (We had the toilet off.) It is a septic tank and we plugged the line draining into the septic tank from the house. Thanks for answering.
Thank you for the tips
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
Hello there is any tipe of requirement on vents for plumbing can I put as many as bends as I need to get to what I need.
I don't think I ever read anything that limits the number of bends you have, however if I were to bet, there is a limit. Usually you have a maximum length that the vent can be based on the size of the pipe, and I would guess every time you put a 90 in it the maximum length gets shorter. The dewalt plumbing guide I have listed in the description is what we used and it was awesome, it has really easy charts to follow so that might not be a bad thing to pick up.
I understand, another question I have on this particular vents al vents need some stope to drain as well right.
Is best not too
Yes all horizontal vents are required to have slop, as as condensation could build up in the pipe and needs to drain.
the book says international plumbing and residential code. Is that for the US? Where you located?
I am in Arizona in the U.S. In my area those are the standards adopted for plumbing, you should be able to check with your local building department and they will tell you exactly what code they use and what year revision they use. Our area was still on the 2012 revision when we started. Hope that answers your question!
@@PootsPastures absolutely thanks!
You should only need a clean out around turns if its accessible like in an unfinished basement you should have needed to put a clean out at least that is the code where I'm from
Or you could get around that by using 2 45s and a short piece making it a long sweep witch should nolonger count it as a 90
Oh and why did use use ABS instead of PVC
We have a clean out at every sink, and one in the crawlspace at the top of our main 3" line, and then one at the top of the main stack. Also one outside in between the septic and house. So everywhere there's a 90 there's a horizontal 90 there's a clean out. And We used ABD because it is more prevalent in our area, and we wanted to be able to run to the hardware store to grab an extra fitting instead of having g to order it
@@PootsPastures oh its just wired because the spot you swapped the 2 inch 90 and made it a 45 was different because normally that would allow you to not put a clean out there because its in a joist span and those are not considered accessible spots for a plumber to snake from and are exceptions from the code where I'm from. I thought it was weird about the abs because in the area I live in PVC and ABS are equally available but PVC is preferred do to it costing less and being more flexible to work with.
Oh yes! I forgot we did that! We did swap that 90 for 45's because of that issue so yeah you're right about why we did that. And I deffinately would have preferred PVC, but it worked out alright.
Did you install the laundry p trap in the outside wall? Where I live it would freeze and not drain. Are you in a hot climate?
it is in an exterior wall, and yeah we thought it might be an issue, we will see though. We insulated between the sheathing and the drain, and did not put any insulation between the drain and the drywall, hoping that it would keep it a little warmer.
Unless you are in California it will 100% freeze
Lows have been in the teens and twenties here, and several days in a row with highs in the low 30's and we haven't had any issues so far
Update! We have had lows in the single didgets for about a month or so now. With highs no higher than 40's. One of our neighbors had their supply lines freeze in their house (which just got done being built) but we've had no issues with anything freezing. We've done laundry in the morning with Temps still well below freezing multiple times with no issues.
Why didn’t you use a figure fitting for the dual sink my guy
Because I have no idea what that is lol
Stacking two Santees like that will cause your P trap to syphon out. Using a DOUBLE FIXTURE TEE is the correct connection. That set up is cause for smelly sinks and failed inspections
@@PootsPastures @1:19 the two sinks fitted one on top each other will create a wet valve in one causing sink to drain slowly and suck out ptrap. You should have used a "Y" fitting between the two, hope that explains better.
Yes that makes sense! Thanks for the reaponse!!
@@PootsPastures this nails it, we've all had the slow backed up unusable double sink..@23:00...th-cam.com/video/mONSk87_onY/w-d-xo.html
ABS pipe? Where are you located? ABS is drain/vent is not code in US
Abs is DWV.
Drain waste vent, and is code in California
One more question if you don’t mind. In the plumbing code it says that clean outs are not required by code for plumbing pipes above the lowest level. Is that correct or am I misreading that?
Ps...must be rewarding getting through all the stages that you have finished. I’m just now finishing the framing
So I'm not sure what section you're looking at. When I read IPC 708.3.1 - 708.3.6 the places that I saw were everywhere there's a change in horizontal direction more that 45 degrees, and at the base of stacks. It did say that every drain line needed one, which to me means every branch... although we did use the 2012 version of the IPC. The best bet would be to clarify with your local building department, they will tell you exactly what they want to see, and we're always very helpful when I had questions.
Hopfully that was somewhat helpful, and I wish you luck in figuring it out, code books are clear as mud!
Use the UPC. No cleanouts are needed in the overhead
@Poots Pastures, what would be the difference from this book and a plumbing code book I have? Just curious. You did a good job! Did it tell you about wet vents or what? So, what's the maximum distance 3 duo's can be away from a stack in order to be used as a wet vent?
Not sure what your book is but this book takes all of its material directly from the code so as long as your book does too they should be the same. And to fully answer your question we would need to know drain size, as well as vent size, and the number of drainage fixture units.
Less holes in framing the better. Rather strap those vents on top of roof supporting frames.
The big reason we didn't just run the vents on top of the rafters in the upstairs bathroom is because we want to be able to use that area for storage and didn't want to have to work around the vent.
Nice
This would fail inspection. In Ontario Canada. SMH
Passed here thanks for watching
I’ll be installing the plumbing pipe myself in a few months also. Excellent video, thank you! Quick question - I noticed you tied the drain line downstream of the toilet drain but before the toilet individual vent. Is that allowed?
Glad you enjoyed it! Let me try and see if I can explain this. There are two general ways to vent fixtures. One is to have the vent coming from behind (or upstream) of the fixture drain, and the other is called a wet vent. The wet vent is when the fixture drains into a drain for another fixture and then they are both vented upstream of the the second fixture. These are ok by code there are just certain distances and pipe size requirments depending on the fixture. The way we did it in out crawlspace the toilet is directly downstream from the vent. The way we did it in our upstairs the toilet travels about a foot before it is vented. This second way isn't considered a wet vent, but is within the certain distance required from fixture and vent. It is essentially the same as the way we did it in the crawl space with the difference being that in the crawlspace the flow is away from the wall, and in the second floor the flow is towards the wall.
So to sum it up, with everything I have read it is OK. We also have passed our plumbing inspection with no issues. I would suggest picking up some sort of code reference book as it was extremely helpful and easy to use.
Hey, I want to get a Join or Die snake tattoo.
Hopefullly the inspector pass the plumbing....
The only inspection we have left is our final, every other inspection has passed! Thanks for watching!
Hey Poots !
We used 2" and 3" almost exclusively. The stub outs for the sinks are 1.5 but that's about it.
no safety goggles?
I'm terrible at wearing safety glasses. You would think that I would learn, especially since that time I had to get a peice of metal removed from my eye!
Closet rings should be installed on a finished floor, so you don’t end up using two wax rings…
Our inspections require that the rings are installed at the time of plumbing inspection. And there are non-wax options out there that work well.
Wet vent boy
why a combo wye serving laundry?.....have to be q sanitary tee....
Our local store didn't have any 2" san t's going into a 3" and the code allows a combo wye to go from horizontal to vertical, so we just went with that instead of adding all the bushings to the sanitary t. Hope that answers your question.
I noticed you didn't use a ABS cleaner primer I'm not sure but I think you might of messed that one up.
According to the manufacture of the abs cement "you should never use primer on abs because it will affect the integrity of the pipe". Hope that helps!
I don't think code actually requires you to leave your cleanouts accessible 😬
I think they need an access panel? But I could be wrong. All ours are accessible and it probably is just a good idea to have them accessible even if it isn't code.
Thanks for watching!
Why install a clean out if you can’t get to it.
How would you snake it..
OSB should not be used in a bathroom, if it gets wet it expands and the glue is gone…
WRONG! toilet flange MUST be install on the top of floor (tiles etc) by the building cod.
That may be a requirment in your area but the 2012 (yes our standards are still 2012) IPC section 405 deals with floor outlet plumbing fixtures and makes no mention of the height of the flange from a finished floor (weather it is required to be flush or on top of). It does require the use of a seal to seal the toilet to the flange (which we have a seal that is the proper depth to accomplish this. There was not "MUST" In that code.
I see that it is customary in some places to place it on the finished floor but our locality requires the flange to be secured for the inspection (which is well before any finished floor would be installed).
@@PootsPastures Weak argument! Installing the WC flange on top of the finished floor is the only proper method.
Yeah actually referencing the code is deffinately a weak argument, I should have just said I am right and you're wrong, that would have been better
@@PootsPastures isn’t it awesome when folks argue with published codes that were developed from evidence based studies and technique….
Im a plumbing and I don't like the way u are doing it ok and I am working in a new house right now
Just because you don't like it doesn't mean it's wrong.
Thanks for watching
So many codes not followed looking back at it all
I'm sorry you feel that way
so much hacking hire a plumber
We deffinately made some mistakes that had to be cut out, but it wouldn't have been worth it to hire a plumber in our case.
To many wet vents
Upstairs Shower wet vents to the sink, they are within 6ft in 2" pipe. The downstairs tub wet vents to the toilet, they are within 4ft in 2". The only one that is a little sketchy is the washer which about an inch or so after the trap dumps into the 3" main stack. In my mind the main stack vented the washer as it extends up about 8 ft before turning into a vent. Inspector didn't say anything about it and we haven't had any problems. I didn't realize the potential issue with the washer until somone gave a constructive and detailed comment about the issue instead of just saying "to many wet vents" with no further details to help anyone that may be trying to learn. Thanks for watching!
The way you used most of your abs fittings is completely wrong. Wet vents everywhere. Combos used completely wrong. I get it, you’re not a plumber. However, you’re gonna have a lot a problems down the road. Plumbing is a science and needs to be done right! Call a pro or do it right next time
Wet vents are allowable by code. What fittings are used wrong? If you are going to say it's wrong give specifics... because you're wrong, or you can give examples and be helpful rather than just saying everything is wrong. I find most of the "plumbers" on here are just scared their gonna lose their job when people find out they are paying way more than they need to be for somthing that is totally able to be done on their own.
Thanks for watching.
@@PootsPastures Mr Sparrow is correct, you can't use a San t on a main except for right beneath a toilet. You must use a long sweep. He is also going to have problems with his three wet vents if he ever uses multiple fixtures at once! I own a facilities company and this mickey mouse bullshit would never pass, nor would it be considered professional!
sorry , plumbing is NOT a science. its cutting plastic pipe and gluing it together while assembling branches and a trunk using common sense to create proper drainage.
@@PootsPasturesI have to 100% agree with you about plumbers job security. These guys are seriously butthurt that you did it and it got approved. 😂
Too many code violations to list…
Sorry you feel that way.
It.s sadenning to spend a lot of money and do such crap, next time call a PRO
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching!
Should did your homework before u started plumbing
Should have done... and if there is a particular section you could offer advice for, feel free to leave it in a comment I'm sure it would help some other people out!
Thanks for watching!
I saw a few.mistakes but.not too bad. Your upc codebook should jave been your bible while doing plumbing your house