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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 เม.ย. 2020
- A quick tutorial on how to adjust and shorten the travel (throw) of the accelerator/gas pedal on the Fanatec ClubSport Pedals V3. I found that this adjustment process to the accelerator pedal is not outlined in the Fanatec CS V3 pedals manual, so here’s how we do it. Don't forget to recalibrate your pedals after the adjustment. Obviously, this is a non-standard modification, so proceed with caution as any damage caused is at your own risk.
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Thank you! I just purchased the V3’s, and this video has just perfected my driving experience. Thanks again!
Awesome video on this. Easy to follow and the process doesn't require additional parts. Well done.
The reason this adjustment is not in the manual is it reduces the amount of thread used to hold the rod. Reducing the amount of thread to the levels in this video can and will lead to damage of the thread - there just are not enough turns to deal with how hard pedals are pressed in the heat of battle. Instead, get the hydraulic mod and fit it to the throttle pedal. You can reduce the hydraulic effect to zero if you don't like it, but what you can do is twist in the piston throw adjustment to put the pedal throw exactly at the amount you want. Another way to have the same effect is to put one of the spare elastomer plugs from the brake performance kit into the hole where the throttle spring rod goes into back pivot - it will have the same effect.
Those are some great points, and I like those alternatives. I can’t say I fully agree that the thread will become damaged as the forces will not be extreme enough to cause wear. A few turns in as shown should be sufficient. After all, we’re talking about the throttle pedal, not a brake pedal with a load cell. I understand it depends on how the individual drives - I tend to be light, smooth and controlled with my accelerator inputs. If you continuously hammer pedal to the metal, then something’s bound to break eventually 😊. Using the elastomer plugs as a stopper is a cool idea, but that might create a rubbery feel instead of having a definitive end-point. The throw adjustment you indicated on the hydraulic kit as you suggest sounds like the safest option if you’re worried about long-term wear.
That's not true. With a 10 mm rod, you need to screw it in around 8 mm (depending on the material). From that point on the rod itself would crack rather than the connection.
You mention the elastomer plug into the hole where the throttle spring rod goes into back pivot, would it be alright putting a metal rod the same size as the elastomer plug, into the rod goes into back pivot.
I have the hydraulic mod and I can confirm that this is a very easy way to change the pedal throw. Thank you for this comment. It helped me out a lot
@@NiekBoersma does adding the damper simply shorten the throw or do you have to go into Fanatec control panel and adjust it there?
Didn’t realise what was annoying me a bit about the throttle until I saw your video! It’s perfect now - thank you!
Thank you so much for this video, I was frustrated why my throttle travel was so short after installing a different spring!
Thank you for this video ! Exactly the solution that I need !
Good job and thanks to share it! It's a great improvement. It was a con when I got it.
Just what i was looking for. Cheers. ( It is still so surprising to see a homemade, simple if you like, video being recorded and shown in 4K. Long gone are the jittery 480p, broken microphone home videos of not too long ago. Better quality, yet more storage drives. Thanks again).
THANK YOU MATE !!! i just watched your video, upgraded my throttle and adjjusted Throw. i will test it.. but i know this will help, since i was already aware of the distance being way to long. thank you again !!
Wow thank you! Short, sweet and informative.
I did this, it's so much better thanks ! Less leg strain
thanks, i really like how its feels now!!!
Thanks! Very simple and easy to follow
Perfect vid man! :) My right combo was RED12 and Red 13 :)
Perfect! Thanks very much, this will help me a great deal.
Perfect! Thanks for this video it's just what I needed. ✌️😎
thank you, sir! I'm going to try this
Fantastic tutorial. Thank you.
Clear video an just to the point, thank you
Detailed but to the point! Thanks
This worked great. Thank you.
Very helpful video👍🏼
Great job 👏🏻
If I was an asphalt racer, I would do this. Being a dirt track racer, I appreciate the long throw. More modulation for slick tracks.
That why my throw is as long as I can get it.
Just wanted to say thanks for this video. I'm a little lazy with the throttle, so I wasn't coming off it fast enough in a braking zone, causing some weird things to happen with the car. Shortened the throw some, instantly fixed that issue. Thanks.
Thank you, will give it a try.
Thank you, great video 👍
Big help! thank you!
Nice solution!!!!👍🏻👍🏻
Very useful!!
Thx! So helpful
Since the rod isn't as screwed in, would that cause durability issues since it's not as firmly inside both end pieces?
Mine come in tomorrow!
Special thanks from my right hamstring
I wish I had thought to do this before adding the hydraulic kit to my throttle as well. My rig is in the corner of my room and it's real difficult to get behind the pedals :(
I wound out the shaft as far as I felt comfortable doing, need to leave enough thread in, the throw for me is still a little far. I'm thinking of putting a small piece of elastomer inside where the shaft goes.
On my rod underneath there is a set screw which prevented the rod from being rotated. Was afraid to play with this set screw so everything was put back. FYI
Thank you.
Is it possible do something like that for the clutch pedal? I have inverted V3, in case it matters.
thanks!
thank you
So even the stronger spring wasn’t enough to make it stiffer? Would like to try this method but worried it might get loose since its not fully screwed on. How’s it working so far?
It's not necessarily to make it stiffer, but to shorten how far it goes down when you push it. The nuts that secure the rod should prevent it from moving and falling out - but I would recommend screwing the rod in at least a couple of turns like it did in the video to put your mind at ease.
Hey thanks for the video, is there anyway to shorten the travel of the brake pedal ? thanks!
Yes, but you would need to buy the Fanatec Brake Performance Kit fanatec.com/au-en/accessories/pedal-accessories/clubsport-pedals-v3-brake-performance-kit
@@mephisto420 Thanks dude!
Thanks
Mate this is soo good thanks for making this video so much better to get on the power way quicker but would u recommend the dampener for the throttle or is it not worth it??
100 percent check out my last vid how mine are set up.
I'm pretty frustrated with my clubsport v1 throttle. I consistently have power out of the turn issues (I race ovals mostly, either not enough power applied or suddenly too much and get sideways) because the power comes too fast. I depress the throttle using the spongebob toe method (really carefully) and it's going 50-75% throttle. I thought of moving the rod up on the "rungs" on the side of the throttle pedal, but of course the sensor needs to move up too, but no holes are drilled. Would this kind of help this overly sensitive initial throttle application?
The hydraulic add-on might solve your issue
@@mephisto420 ok thanks, I will look into it. Never heard of it before
I shortened mine just a little.
Thank you. I wonder why I don’t get 100 % compression. When I press down on the throttle pedal I only get 80% of full throttle. I can’t get the top speed as a result.
I'd imagine you would have to set your min and max settings in the fan lab software after any adjustments to the pedals themselves.
Are there any adjustments on the physical gas pedal or via software to make sure I’m getting 100% throttle? I feel like I’m missing out on top end , albeit minimal but it hurtd
Yes, Fanatec drivers let you adjust where your maximum throttle is.
I usually set it slightly lower than maximum throw (hold it a millimeter or two below max) so that I never miss out on max throttle.
@@champion1642 Thank you!
Don't you need to recalibrate the throttle after adjusting the throw?
I note that several comments have highlighted the potential damage that could occur to the threading or connection point due to only a small amount of thread being used to secure the rod. This argument does have merit, and while I had been using this setup for months without fault, since uploading this video, I have found that using a 3d printed plug (or a correctly shaped cylindrical object) that inserts into the retaining hole (bottom) where the throttle rod goes into back pivot is potentially a safer alternative. This alternative artificially lengthens the rod, and in turn, reduces the throttle pedal throw. However, it then becomes more complicated to adjust the exact distance of the throw. If you are considering this method, then I would suggest that you experiment by using a short plug first (less than 1cm) as that will not drastically reduce the throw and will enable you to shorten/fine-tune the throw further by using the example shown in this video - doing so will utilise more available thread in the rod and provide a more secure connection. As mentioned in the description, this is a non-standard modification, so proceed with caution as any damage caused is at your own risk.
Can you link the 3d printed mod you use now. I would like to buy one and try it
I simply cut a 9 mm piece from the 12mm red element from the brake performance kit - works perfect for me ...
New to sim racing here... What is the advantage of having a short throw?
Personal preference - these pedals have a long throw. Full-throttle felt too far away for me, and I was getting a sore ankle after long sessions. A shorter throw means you don't need to push as far to get to full throttle, but the tradeoff is you don't get as much control (modulation) on accelerator inputs, and harsh inputs can unsettle the car when driving. So my suggestion is to reduce the throw until comfortable while also being mindful of your pedal inputs to ensure smooth driving.
What does the Red spinny Adjustment do on the brake pedal???
Preload
👍🏼
I’ve done this and it’s a great improvement. I’m now no longer getting full throttle though, anyone else has this problem?
You need to recalibrate - plenty of tutorials available.
How do you recalibrate when using PlayStation - I’m using assetto corsa
@@msabbagh4518 I'm not 100% sure as I'm still waiting for my pedals to arrive but I think you need to download the fan lab software on a windows PC or laptop, plug your pedals into that to calibrate, and then reconnect to Playstation.
@@dwaynediamond6431 yes. I figured it out. Thanks !
Do the indicated tutorial. By making this adjustment, you always have to have the settings in manual mode to determine the end of the pedal, right?
I wanted to put it back as standard and it no longer goes down that far even reaching the end and now the auto-calibration mode only detects me 3/4 with the pedal fully. What could have happened?
Thanks a lot.
I think it’s time for a V4 version of the CS or Podium pedal set.
I think you need to put an other two turns of thread back mine was similar and fell apart mid race most annoying it was but you definitely do need a shorter pedal from when they arrive
Why would you want to make the throttle throw as low as possible?
Just makes less room for trottle control..
Nice tutorial though.😁
Exactly what I was thinking, it would make sense for brake pedal as you need to get on full braking power as fast as possible to stop the car faster, but for throttle pedal longer travel gives you more room for car control and avoiding wheel spin.
When you are driving using the "clutchless with lift" method for gear changes - such as the Skip Barber series in iRacing. Shorter lift of the throttle results in faster changes and fewer missed shifts up.
Shorter travel distance means faster action speed. These are all the milliseconds that make the difference in the long race.
@@vadimyakus Depends what you drive I guess, but not that good in powerful cars without tc, then you want to get on the gas smooth not to spin out.
R-VR Closet it will take you not longer than two days to get used to it and you will improve your times in a week or even less
Not a good idea
This doesn’t change the distance of the throw; it just starts further forward. It changes the pedal angle and unloads the spring, which makes it softer.
Check it out again. Unscrewing the rod increases its length and thus reduces the distance it needs to travel to hit the end of the pedal box when you push the accelerator. Remember, the rod only sits part of the way inside the pedal box cylinder, and the distance between the rod and the end of the cylinder determines the throw. I.e. if we make the rod longer, there’s less distance to travel to hit the end of the pedal box - making the throw shorter. You can’t make the pedal start further forward and the length of the exposed rod between the pedal and the pedal box doesn’t change, meaning the spring tension is not affected.