The two parts seized up due to galvanic reaction between two disimilar metals touching eachother with water or moisture. The metals actually form a voltaic cell and act like a battery.
Thanks Joe. Got a 6L3B on an ex MOD rail loco at the East Anglian Railway Museum near Colchester which has a leaky pump water seal. Are there any visible marks to show if it's been modified to the new seal from the original carbon ring without taking it to bits? Lot of difference between the cost of an overhaul kit to just buying new seals! Interestingly our 6L3B - and the 8L3B on another loco have greasers fitted to the drive shaft bearing housing which I didn't see on your one, and may have eliminated the problem with your rusted one. 👍
@@tangentgardner Thanks Joe. The greasers on ours are not on the pumps themselves, they are on the conical housing for the drive shaft extension at the pump end. Must admit my immediate thought when I first spotted it leaking was that it was some form of grease seal until I had a closer rummage and read the instructions! The 6L has a more recent history and could have been modified already, but my guess with the 8 is that its original. Keep up the good works. There ain't many of us arounf to keep these icons of our engineering and manufacturing heritage running. Splendid stuff!
Tim and patience! Try heating around the bulge on the end plate. Use a good solid drift and a heavy hammer. I have made a jacking screw. Email for more details.
Nice detail, thank you Joe. I have a 6LX in a boat with closed circuit keel cooling, and have been thinking about tapping into the cooling system to heat water for domestic use on the vessel. Would you please advise where I should connect? Thanks again, Alan.
@@tangentgardner Thanks Joe, that's pretty clear. Just wondering though, when the thermostat opens is there any flow through the bypass? I hope you've recovered fully from the covid and not suffering the long version. Regards, Alan.
@@ieuryehheudjdjduegej There will be flow yes Alan, but I can't put a figure on it. All I can say is that I took this approach on my own boat and it worked well. No problems with long Covid, thanks.
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Excelent job....👨🔧👌👍👋
Those scroll shaft are a smart idea youl not see anything like that on modern stuff
The two parts seized up due to galvanic reaction between two disimilar metals touching eachother with water or moisture. The metals actually form a voltaic cell and act like a battery.
Another no-nonsense, informative video. Thanks, Joe.
Interesting job there Joe see you next time
Why do Irish have the best pull overs/jumpers?
Thanks Joe. Got a 6L3B on an ex MOD rail loco at the East Anglian Railway Museum near Colchester which has a leaky pump water seal. Are there any visible marks to show if it's been modified to the new seal from the original carbon ring without taking it to bits? Lot of difference between the cost of an overhaul kit to just buying new seals!
Interestingly our 6L3B - and the 8L3B on another loco have greasers fitted to the drive shaft bearing housing which I didn't see on your one, and may have eliminated the problem with your rusted one. 👍
My understanding Peter, and I could be wrong, is that if there is no greaser fitted, then the pump has the new seals. New seals should not be greased!
@@tangentgardner
Thanks Joe. The greasers on ours are not on the pumps themselves, they are on the conical housing for the drive shaft extension at the pump end. Must admit my immediate thought when I first spotted it leaking was that it was some form of grease seal until I had a closer rummage and read the instructions! The 6L has a more recent history and could have been modified already, but my guess with the 8 is that its original. Keep up the good works. There ain't many of us arounf to keep these icons of our engineering and manufacturing heritage running. Splendid stuff!
A bit of never sieze or copper kote would do wonders on the square drive
Hello Joe.
I have enjoyed your videos. 👍
Do You have any advice for freeing a starter that is stuck in location on our gardener engine
Tim and patience! Try heating around the bulge on the end plate. Use a good solid drift and a heavy hammer. I have made a jacking screw. Email for more details.
Nice detail, thank you Joe.
I have a 6LX in a boat with closed circuit keel cooling, and have been thinking about tapping into the cooling system to heat water for domestic use on the vessel. Would you please advise where I should connect?
Thanks again,
Alan.
Take the supply from the bypass circuit Alan. I shot a specific video on this, search for "heat".
@@tangentgardner Thanks Joe, that's pretty clear. Just wondering though, when the thermostat opens is there any flow through the bypass?
I hope you've recovered fully from the covid and not suffering the long version.
Regards,
Alan.
@@ieuryehheudjdjduegej There will be flow yes Alan, but I can't put a figure on it. All I can say is that I took this approach on my own boat and it worked well. No problems with long Covid, thanks.
Thanks again Joe, I'll go down that track. All the best.
You need to go back to school joe?
You need to go back to school
You need to go back to school joe?