Why not connect the stock DC12/24v port to the output of the buck/boost converter? Also, is it more efficient to boost to 26v or buck to 14v? I've done the same thing so I can run fridges from USB-C using a 20v trigger cable. I've also got a switch mounted to the fridge to swap between the DC port going through the buck converter or bypassing it. The ideal solution would to put a switch with a resistor to the LCD board that decides the voltage limit, (or maybe a tiny buck converter) so the fridge itself runs at 100% efficiency at 20v but the LCD is switchable between the real voltage and the fake voltage to bypass the low voltage cutoff. I haven't done this second part yet, but theoretically should be possible.
Hey ben, Thanks for your comment! Im not sure if its more effecient to buck or boost, but i generally like higher voltages due to the lower currents and less voltage drop. I thought about running a switch to swap between inputs but just decided to keep it simple (I have another fridge i use for when I need more capacity and need to run for longer periods). Thats a great idea to trick the LCD board with a resistor to run on the 20v without buck or boost, I wasnt sure how to go about doing that. I also though about putting in an internal battery with USB C charging capability i think that would be cool. Thanks
@@griffinsBuilds Awesome. Sounds good. If I decide to tear further into my fridge and work out how to trick the computer I'll be sure to let you know :)
Hi, there is no need for a boost convertor, the P signal (from control board to compressor) sets the voltage limits (H M L) by setting a resistance, If the P terminal on the compressor is linked to C terminal with 220k ohms, then the compressor runs from 9.6 to 31.5 Volts This can be done under the control panel.
Genius
Nice build, mate.
Thanks 👍
Why not connect the stock DC12/24v port to the output of the buck/boost converter? Also, is it more efficient to boost to 26v or buck to 14v? I've done the same thing so I can run fridges from USB-C using a 20v trigger cable. I've also got a switch mounted to the fridge to swap between the DC port going through the buck converter or bypassing it.
The ideal solution would to put a switch with a resistor to the LCD board that decides the voltage limit, (or maybe a tiny buck converter) so the fridge itself runs at 100% efficiency at 20v but the LCD is switchable between the real voltage and the fake voltage to bypass the low voltage cutoff. I haven't done this second part yet, but theoretically should be possible.
Hey ben, Thanks for your comment! Im not sure if its more effecient to buck or boost, but i generally like higher voltages due to the lower currents and less voltage drop. I thought about running a switch to swap between inputs but just decided to keep it simple (I have another fridge i use for when I need more capacity and need to run for longer periods). Thats a great idea to trick the LCD board with a resistor to run on the 20v without buck or boost, I wasnt sure how to go about doing that. I also though about putting in an internal battery with USB C charging capability i think that would be cool. Thanks
@@griffinsBuilds Awesome. Sounds good. If I decide to tear further into my fridge and work out how to trick the computer I'll be sure to let you know :)
Sounds good
Hi, there is no need for a boost convertor, the P signal (from control board to compressor)
sets the voltage limits (H M L) by setting a resistance, If the P terminal on the compressor is linked to C terminal with 220k ohms, then the compressor runs from 9.6 to 31.5 Volts
This can be done under the control panel.
@@andydoano7912 are you sure it accepts all the voltages in between? I'm pretty sure even with the resistor it has defined 12 and 24v modes